After the flood: rehabilitating historic resources, 1996

AFTER THE FLOOD
REHABILITATING HISTORIC RESOURCES
Madelyn Foard Georgia Department of Natural Resources
Historic Preservation Division 500 The Healey Building 57 Forsyth Street, N.W. Atlanta, Georgia 30303 (404) 656-2840

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This document has been financed with federal funds from the National Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior, and has been printed with funds from the National Trust for Historic Preservation, through the Historic Preservation Division of the Georgia Department of Natural Resources. However, the contents and opinions do not necessarily reflect the views or policies of the Department of the Interior or the National Trust for Historic Preservation, nor does the mention of trade names, commercial products or consultants constitute an endorsement or recommendation by these agencies. This program receives federal financial assistance for the identification and protection of historic properties. Under Title VI of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, Section 504 of the Rehabilitation Act of 1973, the Age Discrimination Act of 1975, and the Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990, the U.S. Department of the Interior prohibits discrimination on the basis of race, color, national origin, age, gender, or disability in its federallyassisted programs. If you believe you have been discriminated against in any program, activity or facility described above, or if you desire information, please write to: Office for Equal Opportunity, 2849 C Street NW, Room 1324. U.S. Department of the Interior, Washington, D.C. 20240. As an agency of the Georgia Department of Natural Resources, the Historic Preservation Division pledges to foster the letter and spirit of the law for achieving equal opportunity in Georgia. If you need this document in an alternate format, please contact the Historic Preservation Division's ADA Coordinator at (404) 656-2840.
Special recognition and acknowledgements are due to several people, without whom this publication would not have been completed. Especially deserving is Kathryn Coggeshall, for her suggestions, support and assistance. Thanks also to Richard Cloues, Mary Ann Eaddy, Mark Edwards, Carole Griffith, Larry Leake, Karen Luehrs, Michael Miller and Carole Moore for their timely review and technical comments, which strengthened this publication. Appreciation is due to the American Red Cross for permission to use its Flood Recovery publication and to the National Trust for Historic Preservation for permission to use its Information Book No. 82, and the funding that made this publication a reality.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Prologue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . i
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
What to do in Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Checklist - Things to do prior to evacuation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Preparing for Cleaning-Up Afterwards Precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Checklist - Things to do when you return . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Basic Clean-up Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Damage Assessment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Damage Assessment Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Character-Defining Elements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Character-Defining Elements Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Architectural Styles and Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Drying-In the Exterior Roofs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Foundations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Exterior Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Other Exterior Features . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Drying-Out the Interior Attics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Ceilings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Interior Walls Insulations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Sheetrock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Plaster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Wood and Vinyl Paneling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Concrete Blocks, Stone and Brick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Doors, Cabinets and Trim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Floors Floor Coverings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Clay and Ceramic Tiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Wooden Flooring and Sub-flooring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Crawl Spaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

Utility Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Landscapes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Other Features . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Hiring a Contractor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Retrofitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Conclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Appendices: The Secretary of the Interior's Standards for Rehabilitation
National Trust Information Booklet
American Red Cross/Federal Emergency Management Agency

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PROLOGUE
This information has been compiled from a wide variety of sources and is intended to serve as a guide towards rehabilitating your historic structure to a usable condition after a flood or other water-related damage has occurred. This publication is the result of the experiences of the Georgia Historic Preservation Division after Tropical Storm Alberto raged across southwest Georgia in July and August of 1994, wreaking havoc upon fifty-five counties and devastating the communities in its path. The goal of this publication is to help you feel more confident about making the many decisions which may face you as you rehabilitate your historic property. Detailed suggestions for both short and long term solutions for rehabilitating flood damaged property or preventing potential damage are incorporated in this publication.
The Historic Preservation Division received emergency funding through the President's Discretionary Fund in the form of a grant program administered by the National Park Service of the Department of the Interior. These funds were used primarily to provide emergency relief to historic structures, assess archaeological impacts and provide technical assistance to the owners and operators of historic resources. The Historic Preservation Division of the Georgia Department of Natural Resources serves as the State Historic Preservation Office. Working with the U.S. Department of the Interior and local communities, the Historic Preservation Division carries out the mandates of the National Historic Preservation Act of 1966, as amended and works to preserve the historical, architectural and archaeological resources of Georgia.
The Historic Preservation Division's mission is to promote the preservation and use of historic places for a better Georgia. Our vision is that Georgia will be a better place tomorrow than it is today, providing quality communities in which to live, work, learn and recreate. Historic places will be widely valued as irreplaceable resources that contribute to our heritage, our economy, our neighborhoods, and our sense of who we are as Georgians. Communities and the State will plan for growth and change that respect and include our historic places. Communities will possess the knowledge, the legal and financial tools, and the authority to decide how preservation and new development will relate to one another. There will still be distinctions between city and suburbs, developing areas and countryside. All Georgians will possess a greater understanding and appreciation of our shared heritage in all its variations. People and organizations throughout Georgia will work in partnership to preserve and use historic places. Georgia's communities, economy, environment, and people will be better because of the preservation of historic resources.

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INTRODUCTION
If you are reading this, chances are that you live and/or work in an area which is prone to flooding. And, if it's happened once, flooding is likely to recur. There are two key elements to ameliorating flood and water damage: Recovery and Retrofitting. Recovery refers to the clean-up of your structure after the damage is done. Retrofitting refers to preventive measures which can help minimize the damage next time. Both aspects are fundamental to flood and water damage rehabilitation. For historic structures and landscapes, water damage is especially harmful because it weakens the infrastructure and threatens its continued occupancy.
Returning to a flooded or otherwise water-damaged historic structure after being evacuated has been compared to moving into a historic structure which has never been restored. Most buildings will sustain some type of damage, but little of that damage will be irreparable. Falling trees may have torn out power lines and landed on buildings, however most damage will be limit to roofs, flooring, walls, doors, and windows.
It is important to remember a few key points:
Q The owner, not the contractor or architect, should be the individual making important rehabilitation decisions. Ask for advice and opinions, but make decisions yourself.
Q Almost anything can be rehabilitated, so keep any pieces and fragments of architectural detailing you find.
Q Take your time making final decisions, even about crucial repair work. There are effective temporary repair measures that you can take immediately which will last for at least 6 months. This should be enough time to decide what needs to be done and to avoid paying the excessive repair costs emergencies tend to cause, as well as give you time to locate a reputable and experienced contractor.

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Once you have heard that storm surge, torrential rain, hurricane or flood is coming, there several things you can do in the remaining time. These measures will make a tremendous

1. Plan on

- and as soon as possible. People die in floods, storms,

and hurricanes. Pack the essentials and set

use your remaining time to address the following steps.

2.

the ground floor if your building is on a beach or near a large

of water. Remove doors from hinges and raise double-hun

windows.

s

with wrenches and pliers. Any object or feature of a

an obstacle to the free flow of water creates an opportunity for the surge

3. Tie

. Many buildings on islands

lost because they have only been "toenailed" (that

is, attached by nails and/or

wooden "plate" set in concrete) to the pilings that act as the foundations.

buildings should have thick, plate-steel straps designed and bolted

the piles and frames of the building. Conventional foundations ma

require additional securing from anchor bolts or other systems.

Take the time

Tie down garden structures

su

and urns. Tie open gates, cover garden pools and flower beds with tarps

is collection and settlement. Secure anything which might

float away or damage the structure's exterior.

If your building is not near the ocean or a lake, doors Plywood is cheaper than new windows and interior finishes.

5. Tak precious and irreplaceable items with you. Photographs business records, personal documents, medical and tax files, and personal

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possessions are things which you cannot replace later.
6. Shut off utilities. Turn off water, gas and power systems even if you are certain that the utility companies have done so. Once the flood recedes, broken water and gas lines often continue to leak residuals for days. Shut off the water and gas at the main valves, usually located where the lines enter the building. Throw the main to terminate electrical service, the first device after the meter. Sometimes this is a fuse box with a handle, a block of fuses that is pulled out, or a main circuit-breaker switch. If you are in doubt, remove all fuses or turn all circuit breakers to the off position.
7. Before you leave, take pictures one last time. Photograph interior details, such as cornice boards and trim, chandeliers and wainscotting. Photograph architectural details inside and out. Take close-ups of masonry and stucco, and any other feature which may weather the inundation poorly.
Naturally, it is best to create an accurate inventory of your structure in less stressful times. However, if you have not taken steps to do so yet, now is an essential time to take this step. Later, these photographs will be invaluable as you rehabilitate your structure. The pictures will be indispensable for relocating displaced features, when it will be hard to recall every detail. Be certain to have extra film, too, because you will need to photograph everything again when you return.
8. Remove non-structural elements, such as decorative lathing, which can impede the water's flow. Damage is worsened if items are improperly stored, not raised off the floor, or unsecured objects left open on shelves or cabinets. Move furniture and appliances (yes, even the refrigerator, dryer, washer, freezer, stove, or whatever) to the second floor or attic to protect them and to clear the floor. These items will become water-born projectiles, causing significant structural damage. If large objects cannot be moved upstairs, try to make sure you secure them so that they will not become floating battering rams and damage walls, cabinets and doors. Remove floor coverings, drapes, and wall hangings. Flood waters will contaminate them and require their replacement. Insurance payments will not always be enough to replace everything!

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5
CHECKLIST
THINGS TO DO PRIOR TO EVACUATION
Q Gather necessary emergency supplies: RClothing and personal belongings. RTowels and linens. RMedications, food and water supplies. RBattery-operated radio. RSpare batteries. RPortable telephone. RFlashlight. RFire Extinguisher. RFirst aid kit.
Q Collect important papers and valuables to take.
Q Move furniture and appliances to a higher level.
Q Securely anchor interior and exterior items to prevent their becoming floating battering rams.
Q Take photographs and write a description of the building's interior and exterior features.
Q Shut off all utilities.
Q Go to higher ground as soon as possible! If you cannot leave due to rising waters, move to the highest spot in the building, near a window or opening so rescue workers can reach you.

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PREPARING FOR CLEANING-UP AFTERWARDS
Flood waters contain hazards, large and small. Flood waters often displace snakes and other creatures from their usual habitats along creeks and river bottoms. Before beginning any work, you should make a thorough walk-through of the structure, carefully checking in all closets, corners, cabinets, attic spaces, drawers and similar locations animals, insects and snakes. Flood waters also carry harmful bacteria and contaminants within the water itself. Be careful in your clean-up efforts to avoid inhaling or swallowing this water.
A. PRECAUTIONS
1. Get a tetanus shot before beginning clean-up efforts.
2. Wear protective clothing! Don't forget to use a dust mask.
3. If there is standing water next to your building, do not go in! You will be unaware if there is serious damage to the foundation. Wait for the water to subside. Examine for cracks in the foundation, missing supports for beams or steps missing.
4. Before entering the building, make sure that all the electrical power has been turned off. If power is still being provided to the area, turn the main breaker in the electrical panel to OFF. Additionally, if sagging trees or power lines are visible, do not enter. Call the proper officials.
5. Turn off the gas. Gas appliances and pipes may have moved or broken during the flood. Water and mud may have extinguished the pilot light. If you suspect a leak or smell gas, leave immediately! In most standard installations, the following information is accurate. However, for your structure there could be a difference, so proceed with caution. Typically, there is a valve next to the gas meter. If the valve is parallel to the pipe, the gas is on. In the off position, the valve should be perpendicular to the pipe. If you have a fuel or propane tank, even one underground, it may have become dislodged. Turn the valve on the tank off.

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6. Do not use appliances until they have been cleaned and their controls and elements have been checked by a professional. Most appliances have electric motors mounted close to the ground, which can become easily contaminated during a flood.
B. SUPPLIES
1. Immediately prior to returning to your property, you will need the following supplies :
Q Flashlight. Q First aid kit. Q Battery-operated radio. Q Waterproof boots or waders. Q Safety clothing, such as hard hat and gloves. Q Boots or shoes with hard soles. Q Dust mask. Q Camera or video camera and paper to record damage. Q Tools: crowbar, hammer, saw, pliers, crescent wrench. Q Drinking water. Q Trash bags. Q A wooden stick sturdy enough for moving electrical wires,
checking the "soundness" of boards, turning things over, moving items, etc. Q Cleaning supplies: paper towels, buckets, bleach, sponges, mops, rags, hose, clean water.
Many of these supplies will be made available to you via the American Red Cross relief centers.
2. Always wear goggles, masks and gloves to prevent direct contact with flood water.
3. Check throughout the building in closets, drawers, nooks and crannies for small animals, insects, or reptiles displaced by the floodwater.
4. If there is water in your basement, do not be in a great hurry to pump it out.

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Ground water outside is putting pressure on the walls as the flood water in the basement is doing the same inside. Pumping too quickly will destroy the balance of pressure, resulting in floor and wall cracks and possible collapse. Begin pumping only when the flood waters covering the ground are gone. Then pump about two or three feet and mark the water line. Wait over night. Check the marked water line in the morning and if the water is covering it, it is too early to pump. Wait in twenty-four hour intervals and begin the pump-mark-and-check cycle again. When the water stops going back up, continue pumping as described above.

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CHECKLIST
THINGS TO DO WHEN YOU RETURN
Q If standing water remains outside the structure, DO NOT ENTER.
Q Thoroughly check for damage to the foundation before entering.
Q Call the utility companies to determine if overall power is available. Turn your utilities off. Report any downed lines.
Q Look for potential falling hazards from trees and power lines.
Q Always wear boots, gloves, goggles and mask.
Q Open all doors, windows, and closets to begin drying-out. Do not use heater or air conditioners to dry-out.
Q Check all drawers, closets, attics, basements, crawl spaces, and cabinets for animals or insects which may have been displaced.
Q Remove all sodden materials, mud and debris. Wash the entire building, starting at the top and working down to the bottom.
Q Save any architectural details or features you find.
Q Take photographs and write a description of the building's current conditions before, during and after basic clean-up efforts.
Q Locate agencies which can provide assistance.
Q Complete a damage assessment form, create a recovery plan, determine character-defining elements, and assess your building's architectural style before you being rehabilitation efforts.

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C. BASIC CLEAN-UP INFORMATION
The critical factor in determining the extent of damage sustained by various elements of a building is the amount of time it was exposed to water. If the exposure time was short, with proper steps almost all elements are reclaimable. However, if water has been in a structure for more than a few hours, the damage will be much more extensive. Under these circumstances, sheetrock and insulation have been contaminated by floodwater and must be removed to prevent further damage to the entire structure. The following steps can be taken to promote the essential circulation of air, which is the cornerstone to recovery.
1. Completely open up the building. Open all windows, doors, closets, cabinets and drawers. At night, when the temperature drops and the humidity outside is greater than it is inside, close the building up.
2. Throw away saturated objects like carpets, carpet pads, mattresses and other upholstered items.
3. Use fans and dehumidifiers. Do not use central air and heat to force the natural drying process. Also, flood debris and mud may be lodged in the duct work. Remove grates and registers, hose out and wash with a disinfectant. Consider calling a professional.
4. Use desiccants (drying agents) to soak up moisture. Materials such as cat litter with clay, chemical packs for drying out boats and closets or calcium chloride placed in pillow cases or nylon stockings will absorb moisture. Be careful; calcium chloride can burn the skin.
5. Wash all surfaces. Hose down walls, including light sockets and electrical boxes (BE CERTAIN THE POWER IS OFF), floors, closets, cabinets and counter space. Mix household bleach (5:1) with water as a disinfectant to eliminate mildew and mold and prevent new growth.
6. Call a contractor. Look in the yellow pages under "Fire and Water Damage Restoration."
Drying out your building may take several weeks. If severe water damage has occurred, test masonry and interior wood framing with a moisture meter. This device is available at most homesupply stores.

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DAMAGE ASSESSMENT
Before you begin anything else, you need to determine the extent of the damage. The overall, as well as the specific condition, of the structure should be considered. As tempting as it is to begin cleaning-up in earnest, take the time to assess the condition your building. Once you have done so, establish a plan on recovering your building. Only then should you proceed with the salvage operations for all aspects of your belongings. Structural soundness, leaking roofs, leaning or separating chimneys, broken windows, damaged walls, and sagging ceilings need to be evaluated. The accurate recording of damage will be essential to your salvage operations. Use the enclosed forms to document the following kinds of questions:
Q How much damage has occurred? Q What kind of damage has taken place? Q Where is the damage located? Q How much of the building has been damaged? Q What types of features (i.e., doors, chimney, foundation, etc.) has been damaged
and by what (i.e., erosion of pier by water, sheetrock absorbed water, windows broken by force of water, etc.) Q Is there a visible hazard on the exterior jeopardizing initial start-up? Q Is there a visible potential hazard on the interior?
After you have completed a damage assessment, prepare a written recovery plan. Many of the measures which are essential for promoting drying-in and drying-out are steps which even the most "un-handy" person can undertake. Refer to these sections before contacting a contractor. But first, you should take the steps necessary to determine your building's characterdefining elements and its architectural style. You will need to provide any potential contractor with as much information as possible about your structure.

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DAMAGE ASSESSMENT FORM
BUILDING NAME STREET ADDRESS CITY, COUNTY, STATE
PROPERTY OWNER
TELEPHONE CONSTRUCTION DATE
USE OF BUILDING

EXTERIOR POTENTIAL HAZARDS

OBJECTS PARAPET/CORNICE ORNAMENTATION CHIMNEY(S) FLOORS ROOF STRUCTURE EQUIPMENT TREES POWER LINES OTHER

CLEAR HAZARD

NOT APPARENT

UNKNOWN

COMMENTS

BUILDING DESCRIPTION NUMBER OF STORIES

BASEMENT ROOF OTHER BUILDING MATERIALS FOUNDATION EXTERIOR WALLS
INTERIOR WALLS FLOORS CEILINGS

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ROOF

14
OTHER

Location Exterior Walls

EXTERIOR DAMAGE OBSERVATIONS: Comments

Frame (General Conditions)

Frame Members

Roof Coverings

Roof Framing

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Chimney(s) Gutters/Downspouts INTERIOR DAMAGE OBSERVATIONS: Load Bearing/Shear Walls Partitions(Non-bearing) Ceilings Wallcovering Floor(s) Stair(s) Glass

16
Equipment Utilities

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CHARACTER-DEFINING ELEMENTS
Prior to rehabilitating a flood-damaged historic structure, identify its character-defining elements. Use this information to guide your rehabilitation decisions. Character-defining elements are the visual or tangible aspects of a building, related to its type, style, construction methods, or materials. They contribute to the building's architectural or historical significance. Identifying character-defining elements is crucial, as many aspects of a building's character might otherwise be altered and/or diminished irreversibly.
The identification of character-defining elements can be done in a three-step process. This task is well worth the time it takes to complete. The information you can will be useful to help you decide what steps to take in your recovery efforts.
First, study the building's exterior and its site as a whole. Be sure to observe the building and its site as a whole; this may require some distance, perhaps from across the street or from the adjoining lots. Note the features which catch your eye and those which provide visual interest. Walk around the site and note essential features. Character-defining elements can include setting, overall form, massing, shape, roof and roof features (lines, cupolas, chimneys, etc.), projections or recesses (bay windows, porches), openings for windows and doors, and materials.
Second, examine the building's exterior at a close range (arm's length) and evaluate the surface qualities of the materials, such as color, texture, or craftsmanship. Surface materials, finishes and textures are a crucial yet fragile element of a building's character. These details can be lost or damaged by inappropriate treatment such as repointing with the wrong color of mortar, using abrasive cleaners, sandblasting or rotary sanding, or painting of previously un-painted masonry. Examine the features which you noticed as you studied the building as a whole, looking for details of features and material components.
Third, focus on the interior character of the building. It will take more time but is just as important as the exterior. Walk slowly through the building one room at a time. Take note of the overall pattern of the floorplan. Is it symmetrical or asymmetrical? Are the rooms all similar or do they vary in size and shape? Is the purpose of the room apparent from its location or size? The shapes of spaces or the flow of spaces are often defining aspects of a building's character. Architectural linkages, such as archways between rooms or repeated motifs, are often vital to continuity or visual impact. Finishes and features such as woodwork or other ornamental

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elements are also important factors in determining interior character.
Additional information on this topic is available in the National Park Service's Preservation Brief series, and is distributed by the Historic Preservation Division. Call (404)656-2840 to request a copy of brief #17.

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CHARACTER-DEFINING ELEMENTS FORM
Use separate pieces of paper to respond to the questions in each of the steps below. Answer in as much detail as possible.
STEP ONE
1. Overall Shape
Q Look at the overall shape of the building. What gives the building its identity? Does the overall shape display its historic function?
Q Is the building tall, slender and narrow or is it low, stocky and flat, symmetrical or asymmetrical? Does it have a tower?
Q How many stories does it have? Does it have simple lines or is it complicated with wings of various heights?
Q Is one side of the structure less important that the other sides, or one section obviously more important and impressive than others? Why? How can you tell?
2. Roof and Roof Features
Q Whether highly or slightly visible, how does the roof contribute to the architectural identity of the building?
Q Does the roof have any features which are stand out in its profile against the sky or general background, such as cupolas, multiple chimneys, cresting, weathervanes or dormers?
Q What materials have been used? What colors have been used? What is the design or pattern of roofing materials? Do the materials and their colors, patterns or design make the pitch or shape of the roof more or less apparent?

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3. Openings
Q Do the openings in the walls for windows, doors, balconies, or other features have a pattern or a symmetry? Or are they irregularly arranged?
Q What is the obvious relationship between the size of the openings and the wall space between the openings, such as the width of windows and the space between windows?
Q Are any of the openings accentuated by size or architectural detail? Q Do the windows have unusual shapes or patterns to the glass? Or does
the style of the windows supplement the architectural features? Q Are the windows openings so plain that adding shutters or gingerbread
trim would dramatically alter the original character? Q Are the front windows more important than side windows? If so, why? Q Are there walls with no windows at all? Does the lack of windows
contribute to the character of the building?
4. Projections
Q Does the building have porches, cornices, balconies or bay windows? Q Does the building have turrets, wide eaves, chimneys, or projecting
elements?
5. Trim
Q How does the trim around doors and windows add to the building's character?
Q How does trim around the roof line, walls, or projections add to the building's character, especially because of its color, pattern, form, or decoration?

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6. Secondary Features
Q Does the building have shutters, railings, or decorative gables? Q If yes, how much does this add to the building's character? Does the
color, pattern or decoration of these items add to the building's character?
7. Materials
Q As observed from a distance, do the materials or combination of materials add to the overall character of the structure?
Q Does the color or patterning or sequencing of materials influence the overall character of the structure?
8. Setting
Q What aspects of the overall setting add to the visual character of the structure? Is it the landscaping? Topography? Lot size and shape?
Q Are there walkways, terracing, fences, landscaping or other aspects which add to the setting's character?
Q If located in a city, does the alignment of the streets and adjacent sidewalks create the main focal point?
Q How important are outbuildings and landscaping to the structure's character?
STEP TWO
1. Materials at Close Range
Q What materials have been used in the construction of the structure? Q How has the choice of materials added to the character of the building? Q Are any materials used in combination for the contrast they provide, such
as combinations of brick and stone, several kinds of stone, or dressed stones for lintels and rough stones for walls? Q What are the characteristics of the materials which have been used? Q What are the colors of the materials, and do the color combinations add to the structure's character? Q Do the materials have a surface texture that contributes to the building's

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character?
2. Craft Details
Q Describe the details of the construction methods and techniques. Generally, any type of craft details contributes to the character of a structure because it is indicative of the methods used in the construction, including the tools and processes involved. All of these details are apparent at close range.
Q If the walls are brick, is there high quality brickwork with narrow mortar joints? Do the walls show carefully joined vertical joints and recessed horizontal joints? Or are the bricks of irregular shape, color, and texture, perhaps indicating that they were hand-made?
Q If the walls are of stone, is there hand-tooled or patterned stone-work? Q If the walls are of shingles, is the shinglework laid up in patterns? Does
it retain evidence of the circular saw marks? Can the grain of the wood be seen through the stain? Q If the walls are of siding, are there hand-split or hand-dressed clapboards, or machine-beveled siding? Has the wood been rusticated to look like stone? Q If the walls are of stucco, is it smooth or patterned? Is it finished to resemble stone? Does it have any designs?

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STEP THREE
1. Interior Spaces
Q How do individual rooms or spaces add to the character or significance of the building because of their size, height, proportion, configuration, or function? An example might be the center hallway in a house, a courtroom, a ballroom or a lobby.
2. Related Spaces and Sequence of Spaces
Q Are there connecting rooms which are physically or visually related by large doorways, open archways or the interior spaces identified in the step mentioned above?
Q Are any spaces arranged so that they are perceived or regarded as continuations of other spaces? How?
Q Does the sequence of the spaces have an importance? An example might be the progression from the entry way to the lobby to the stairway and to the upper balcony in a theater, or in a residence, the ordering of spaces from the entrance to the hallway to the parlor.
3. Interior Features
Q What interior features help define the character of the building? How? Q Are there repetitions of features which visually tie rooms, spaces or the
entire structure together, either as a continued theme or style? Items to consider are arched openings, cornices, inglenooks, ceiling medallions, doorways, light fixtures, balconies, balustrades and stairways, fireplaces and mantels, windows, panelling, trim, wainscotting, hardware, teller cages, courtroom bars, waiting room benches, or church pews.

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4. Surface Finishes and Materials
Q How do the surface materials and finishes affect the design, color, or texture of the interior?
Q Does the simplicity of any of the materials or finishes define an essential character for the interior, such as hard, bright, shiny wall surfaces of metal, glass or plaster?
Q Are there any special or unusual finishes or materials which are important to the historic character, such as pressed metal ceilings, marbleized surfaces, checkerboard marble floors, or polychrome painted surfaces?
5. Exposed Structure
Q Are there spaces or rooms in which exposed structural elements which define the interior character, such as exposed beams, posts or trussels, such as in a factory, church or shed?
Q Are there areas with decorative, non-structural ceiling beams such as in bungalows?
This character-defining elements form is based on the Architectural Character Checklist/Questionnaire developed by Lee Nelson, FAIA. More information is available from the Historic Preservation Division. Call (404)656-2840 to obtain a copy.

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ARCHITECTURAL STYLES AND TYPES
A building's architectural style is determined by its overall form and ornamentation. Ornamentation is the decoration put on or into a building in an arranged or systematic pattern. Form is the massing, scale, proportion, and symmetry or asymmetry of a building, and the interaction of its parts such as height, depth and width or solids and voids. Construction techniques and materials and floor plan and interior layout also have a role in the definition of architectural style. Architectural styles are identified as "high style," meaning that all the elements defining a particular style are present, "vernacular interpretation," meaning that many but not all stylistic elements are present and "elements of a style," meaning that a few elements are found. In Georgia, architectural style is usually a matter of ornament applied to underlying form. There are 34 major styles of historic structures in Georgia:

Academic Gothic ("Collegiate") Revival Greek Revival

Art Deco

High Victorian Eclectic

Beaux Arts Classicism

High Victorian Gothic

Chicago School

Italianate

Colonial Revival

Italian Renaissance Revival

Craftsman

Mediterranean Revival

Dutch Colonial Revival

Moderne

Early Classical Revival

Neoclassical Revival

English Vernacular Revival

Prairie

Exotic Revival

Queen Anne

International

Richardson Romanesque

Federal

Romanesque Revival

Federal Revival

Second Empire

Folk Victorian

Shingle

French Vernacular Revival

Spanish Colonial Revival

Georgian

Stick

Gothic Revival

Stripped Classical

In addition to architectural style, many structures can be categorized by type, such as "shotgun." Type refers to the overall form, or outline, of the main part of the building, as well as the interior's general layout. Within types are differences which can be compared and contrasted for various elements or traits. The easiest way to determine type is to consider only

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the original core of the building and to use this equation: Plan + Height = Type. Additions and embellishments are important only when they result in the alteration from one type to another. Type and style of building are often confused as the same thing, but they are not. Another way to understand the difference between the two terms is that style refers to the external decoration or ornamentation of a structure and type refers to the simple, unadorned form and original interior layout.
Additional information on architectural styles and building types is available from the Historic Preservation Division. Call (404) 656-2840 for assistance.

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DRYING-IN THE EXTERIOR
Drying-in is a term referring to the steps taken to secure the exterior of a building damaged by water. Usually, these steps are temporary in nature. Temporary steps are often advisable when damage is significant, or when you are in an area where supplies may be limited and skilled contractors are in high demand. The first goal of drying-in is to make a temporary repair that will last for at least 6 months. The second goal is to provide the time for the owner to determine precisely what work really needs to be done. As a result of taking these measures, the owner can avoid paying premium repair prices during the immediate frenzy of arranging for clean-up and rehabilitation. These measures are usually simple, but are often complicated by the scarcity of supplies (like plywood, generators, and roofing felt) and the high demand for contractors experienced in historic buildings who work at reasonable rates.
A. ROOFS
Drape large tarps over the roof ridge to make an instant, weather-tight roof "patch". Securely fasten the edges, or they can pull loose or rip if allowed to flap freely in the wind. Agricultural supply houses generally stock the large tarps that are best for this purpose. Large holes or missing sections of the roof will need to be connected with lumber. Be certain to run such supports vertically so that water cannot build up in pockets on the tarp, and then drip through a hole that might develop under the stress.
Replace missing roof sheathing or decking with exterior-grade plywood of the same thickness. If any rafters have been damaged or if there are indications of other structural damage, consult with an architect experienced in dealing with historic structures. Refer to the checklist on hiring a contractor first.
If the sheathing material is in good shape but shingles or other roofing material itself is missing, cover the area with 30- to 90- pound asphalt impregnated roofing felt. Use felting nails (they have a square washer at the head) to nail it along the seams every six inches. Avoid lighter-weight felts, such as 15pound felt, because they quickly deteriorate. Heavier-weight felts are strong and enduring. 90-pound felt can last up to two years without a finished roof on top. If the only 90-pound felt available is roll roofing with colored mineral on one side,

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install it with the mineral face against the sheathing so it can be roofed over. This heavy felt is a good base for permanent wood and asphalt shingle and slate roofs, but it would need to be stripped prior to installing a metal roof.
Don't walk on a slate roof; slates crack easily. Also, the storm may have jarred them loose, and you could fall.
Additional information on this topic is available in the National Park Service's Preservation Brief series, distributed by the Historic Preservation Division. Call (404)656-2840 to request a copy of briefs #4, 29 and 30.
B. FOUNDATIONS
If your building is on brick piers or blocks, be certain to check that flood waters have not destroyed mortar joints or undermined the foundation. First, visually inspect the foundations. Be certain that the mortar between bricks and blocks has not been washed out or damaged. If the foundation or pier is structurally sound but a large amount of mortar has been damaged or lost, the mortar can be replaced without dismantling the foundation. Pour loose mortar into joints to fill voids in the remaining mortar. This will reinforce the overall structural integrity of the foundation. If a significant amount of mortar needs to be replaced, it is recommended that you contact a professional to determine the extent of damage to footings, piers, or foundations.
Additional information on this topic is available in the National Park Service's Preservation Brief series, distributed by the Historic Preservation Division. Call (404)656-2840 to request a copy of briefs #2 and 15.
C. EXTERIOR WALLS
If your building is wood-sided, consider removing some boards to help promote air circulation.
If your building is brick with a water-resistant sheathing, it will usually be undamaged if the weep holes (the slots near the bottom of the brick) are open, allowing any water trapped inside to drain and promoting air circulation. It is important to dry the cavity between the brick and the sheathing. All perimeter vents should be opened to

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encourage cross-ventilation. It is essential to thoroughly dry out the floor joist from the underside and the topside, in order to minimize the amount of damage to the floor joist as well as the sub-flooring.
Begin this drying-in as quickly as possible. The natural movement of air can be supplemented with fans, but do not use heaters or air conditioners. Keep the building well-ventilated until the interior is dry. The length of time will vary depending on the extent of saturation. You should test with a moisture meter, which can be purchased at a paint, hardware or home supply store.
D. OTHER EXTERIOR FEATURES
Tie up loose or damaged gutters and downspouts to help carry water away from the structure.
Cover broken doors and windows with lightweight plywood (exterior grade, 3/8" is usually suitable) or tarps.
Fallen trees must be removed before even temporary repairs can begin. First study the tree to see if it can be re-set in its original location. If the tree can be saved, you may need some professional advice on how to provide it temporary support while the ground dries out. You also will need to know how to care for it properly following the trauma of the storm, as the storm has stressed the underground water system. The tree may be "drowning" in its own root-bed without proper care.
If you have not used a chainsaw before, do not go get one just yet. Seek out assistance from an experienced neighbor and learn the correct method of using it.
Presume all power and utility lines are "live." Even if the main system is off-line, emergency generators may be providing service temporarily.
Save any architectural feature or detail you find, even if it is not yours. Clearly it belongs to someone, who, no doubt, will be grateful to have it returned.
DRYING-OUT THE INTERIOR

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Drying-out refers to the process of circulating air around and through the interior of a structure so that it can dry out thoroughly and evenly.
A. ATTICS
Start at the top of your building, in your attic, as you initiate the clean-up process. Starting at the top will mean you only have to clean-up the lower floors once; otherwise, as water drains you will have to clean them another time. Be certain to open any windows or ventilators to promote the circulation of fresh air. If there is an attic fan, turn it on! It will help to circulate the air through the entire building. If the insulation is wet, remove it immediately. It will hold the water against the wood structure and promote dry-rot.
If the attic contains any wet items, especially anything heavy like trunks and books, move them to a dry location on a different level. The weight of water-soaked boxes can cause cracking in the plaster ceilings in the floors below. Also, as water evaporates, it will add to the moisture level in the building and keep it high, retarding the drying-out process in general.
Water which has entered through your attic will find its own route down through the rest of your building, along the lowest points. Water may drain through old ceiling cracks or drip from ceiling fixtures. The dark, foul water that comes out of the ceiling typically will indicate a large leak in the roof. This water has picked up all the dirt collected inside walls and floors. Poke a few holes in obviously wet areas to allow the water to drain into buckets below. This will save you time and effort as you make your repairs.
B. CEILINGS
Inspect your ceilings carefully. Wet plaster and sheetrock are very heavy and can be a hazard. If they are sagging, you can help them by draining trapped water. In order to do this effectively, follow these steps:
1. Hammer a finishing nail into the end of a broom-handle. 2. Start at one edge of the sag. Poke a hole at the edge of the sag to allow
water to drain. Do not start at the center of the sag, or the ceiling is liable

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to collapse. Also, stand away from the sagging area, not under it. Otherwise draining water will run into your face. Do not get close to electrical fixtures with your stick. 3. After water has drained from that hole, make another hole a little closer to the sag. Continue making drain holes until you reach the lowest point. 4. Once the ceiling is drained, plan on removing it, especially if it has been in direct contact with the floodwater. Clean rainwater will not have contaminated the plaster or "sheetrock," so in that case it might be salvageable. 5. Do this in every room with a sagging ceiling.
Although the standing flood waters may not have reached the ceiling, it may be damaged from the humidity or from absorbing moisture as it was soaked up through walls. Moisture will cause swelling, which may make it pull away from the ceiling frame. Check the ceiling by pressing up on it. If nailheads appear, then you have damage which will need to be repaired. At the least, renailing and refinishing will be required. If the situation is extreme, most likely you will need to replace the ceiling.
Check for loose plaster in ceilings. Either remove it or secure it in place with screws and plaster washers. Large loose areas can be temporarily propped in place with sheets of plywood held in place by 2 x 4s. Screw a T-shaped end on a 2 x 4 slightly longer than the ceiling height and shove the "T" against the plywood.
A puffy white residue that appears at the edge of plaster cracks indicates that the water has dissolved the gypsum in the plaster and re-deposited it elsewhere. The cracks will have to be cut out and re-plastered.
Decorative plaster mouldings are frequently attached with plaster of paris, which is water soluble. These may begin to fall or sag. Remove loose pieces, mark them and save for reinstallation. Ceiling medallions can be held in place with a fabric sling attached to the ceiling. Once dry, they can be re-secured with an acrylic glue.
Additional information on this topic is available in the National Park Service's Preservation Brief series, distributed by the Historic Preservation Division. Call (404)656-2840 to request a copy of briefs #21, 23 and 34.
C. INTERIOR WALLS

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1. INSULATION
Remove baseboard to check for wet insulation. If the insulation is wet, remove it and dispose of it properly. After being wet, most insulation is ineffective, especially if it is vermiculite, rock wool, mineral fiber, blown-in fiberglass or cellulose. These fibers tend to fall and compress under their own weight. Also, wet insulation will continue to hold moisture for a long time and will create high moisture conditions which will damage metal, masonry, and wood. Additionally, the presence of this moisture will make it harder to dry out your building.
If your building is insulated with styrene or urethane board, which is nonabsorbent, this material may be left in place even after prolonged contact with water. However, leaving this kind of "closed-cell" insulation in place will retard the drying-out process and possibly promote either wood rot or other problems for wood which has been saturated.
2. SHEETROCK
Drain water inside the walls by taking off the baseboard and making holes with an awl or knife 2" above the floorline. If large amounts of water drain out, make the holes larger with a saw or drill. This will encourage the water to drain more freely. Holes should be spaced 16" - 24" apart. Be careful to avoid electrical wiring.
Many structures have interior walls made of wood studs and sheetrock (gypsum board). If the sheetrock has been exposed to water for less than two hours, it probably will not be damaged extensively and can be repaired with a minimum of effort. Remove any sheetrock between the floor to at least one foot above the high-water line (that is, the obvious line staining your walls showing how far the water rose). If the sheetrock was in contact with floodwater for longer than two hours, it will require complete replacement. This is a result of its absorbent nature; it will have "wicked up" a considerable amount of contaminating water which will create serious problems during your repair efforts.
It is essential that you allow the framing time to dry thoroughly before installing new insulation and new sheetrock. It is advisable to use a moisture meter to accurately detect the framing's dryness. Studs may feel and appear dry on the outside and

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remain wet in the middle. Adding new materials too quickly will result in the need to replace those new items within a short time period, perhaps as little as 6 months.
3. PLASTER
If your walls are plaster, it is advisable that you first drain water held behind the walls. Remove the baseboard, then drill a hole several inches above the floor. Avoid using electric drills, as you run the risk of being shocked; cordless or hand drills are recommended. Space the holes 16" - 24" apart. Do not use a hammer and chisel combination because the plaster could shatter. If your plaster is in good condition, the holes you make can be filled quickly once the interior wall cavity is dry. Be certain to make holes in both sides of any interior walls to allow for cross-ventilation.
Walls which did not come in direct contact with the floodwater still may have problems due to the high humidity level. Mold and mildew can be removed by scrubbing with a weak bleach-and-water solution.
Newly peeling paint (not old, hard flakes which have been there already) indicates that water is trapped underneath. Scrape away any soft and/or "bubbled" paint to speed the drying process. If the paint is historic, it may well be a lead-based paint. If so, remove it carefully and dispose of the paint properly. Do not repaint until the wall and its frame have dried thoroughly and the interior humidity level is normal again. If you paint too soon, the paint may discolor or fail.
Peeling wallpaper or fabric wallcoverings that is not stained may be possible to re-use later. However, FEMA cautions that paste or glue for wallpaper or wallcoverings might encourage the growth of molds, bacteria and other contaminants. The decision to retain it should be include an analysis of its replacement or reproduction costs, the amount of water damage and climate controls to prevent the future growth and spread of contaminants, bacteria and mold. If you determine that you can re-use the same paper or covering, remember to wait for the wall to dry thoroughly before re-attaching the wallpaper.
A moisture meter is useful for determining the "dryness" of the wall; this can be purchased from a hardware or home-supply store. Drying time will vary depending on the amount of water that entered your building, the removal of water-

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logged items, the amount of air circulation and cross-ventilation, ground-water levels and weather conditions during the drying-out period. Do not be surprised if drying-out takes weeks, perhaps months.
Additional information on this topic is available in the National Park Service's Preservation Brief series, distributed by the Historic Preservation Division. Call (404)656-2840 to request a copy of briefs #21, 23 and 34.
4. WOOD AND VINYL PANELING
If your wall has vinyl paneling or a vinyl laminate, remove whatever got wet and discard it. This material cannot be salvaged. Once the framing is dry, install new wall covering.
If your walls are wood-paneled, remove the baseboard first. Then, carefully pry the lower edge of each panel away from the frame so that it can drain and dry. Later, you can nail them back into place after the studs and the panels themselves have dried out.

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5. CONCRETE BLOCKS, STONE AND BRICK
If your walls are concrete blocks, you have little to worry about regarding draining. The floodwater will drain of its own accord. Also, it will not damage the concrete in the same way that it does plaster, wood paneling, or sheetrock. If your blocks have been sealed with a paint, waterproof coating, or water repellant coating, you may have a problem with spalling. Spalling is the chipping or breaking of the block or brick as a result of the soluble salts (naturally present in the concrete or brick) dissolving and being carried to the surface as the water evaporates but due to sealants or paints the salts are trapped by the sealant, then crystalize and expand, and through internal pressure cause the block or brick to flake. This process usually takes time to develop; salt deposits may not cause visible damage for years. It is important to encourage the drying of the building materials prior to winter freezes, as the trapped moisture will expand while freezing and thawing, causing freeze-thaw spalling.
Unpainted or unsealed stone or brick walls usually withstand flooding well. Water will be absorbed to an extent, depending on the porous nature of the material involved. As the water recedes, it will drain naturally. In the course of the natural drying process, soluble salts naturally present within the materials may dissolve and be carried to the surface, where it will dry as a white powder. This powder, called efflorescence, usually washes away easily. If it is stubborn, you can add detergent to the water and, if necessary, use brushes. On its own, the powder is harmless.
Additional information on this topic is available in the National Park Service's Preservation Brief series, distributed by the Historic Preservation Division. Call (404)656-2840 to request a copy of brief #1. Also refer to "Treatment of FloodDamaged Older and Historic Buildings," Information Booklet No. 82 by the National Trust for Historic Preservation, incorporated into this publication.

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D. WINDOWS
Open the windows in all rooms, even if there is no evidence of moisture retention. A window fan will help draw fresh air through the building, helping to dry out between interior and exterior walls. Air circulation is the solution to completely drying out, and this process should not be forced by heaters or air conditioners. Remember that if you force your building, or even one room in your building, to dry too quickly, structural damage will happen.
If windows are swollen shut, do not force them open. Exercise care and common sense in order to open windows that are swollen. Depending on the type of windows you have, free them up without damaging their structure if possible. If a window simply cannot be opened due to excessive moisture, use dehumidifiers and fans to help reduce the humidity level and try again in regular periods. The effectiveness of drying-out the house will depend on the amount of air circulation you are able to create.
Additional information on this topic is available in the National Park Service's Preservation Brief series, distributed by the Historic Preservation Division. Also the National Park Service's Preservation Tech Notes # 9 and 10 contain details on window repairs, based on case studies. Call (404)656-2840 to request a copy of briefs #9 and 13 and notes #9 and 10.
E. DOORS, CABINETS AND TRIM
Most doors, cabinets and trim are constructed of wood and absorb water during flooding. These items will swell and may become unusable. Without proper care, they can be destroyed in an attempt to save them. Solid wood doors should be tended carefully, so that they are re-usable after drying-out. These doors must be removed from their hinges and laid flat across sawhorses or some other props which will allow good air circulation. Wooden trim also must be removed and allowed to dry thoroughly. When they are dry, some shrinkage is possible. Hollow core doors often fall apart, becoming unglued and completely useless if saturated. Many cabinets made of plywood or particle board will delaminate and fall apart in time. The effects of delamination generally do not appear for several days.

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F. FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS
Remove wet carpet, carpet pads and furniture to the outside of the building as quickly as possible. Saturated fabrics contain high amounts of bacteria carried by the flood waters, and these bacteria are health hazards. Additionally, as these large items dry, water vapor in the building adds to its already high moisture level. Drying out will be quicker if there is less vapor to remove.
Floor coverings like linoleum, vinyl, vinyl asbestos and vinyl composition tile may come unglued and may also tend to curl along the edge. Usually these floor coverings need to be removed and replaced. Use care when walking on them as they are extremely slippery while wet.
Ceramic and clay tiles are more resistant and are more likely to survive the flooding unharmed. Unfortunately, the sub-flooring to which these tiles are attached may not dry out properly, causing buckling and cracking and the subsequent need to replace the tiles. Also, the mortar and the sub-flooring may be contaminated by floodwater, depending on how long the floor was submerged.
Wood flooring and sub-flooring are usually the most damaged by floods because they are porous and absorb water, then swell. If wood floors are covered in mud, wash them with fresh water. Then apply paper towels to absorb any salt water. Newspaper is not recommended because ink can be transferred to the flooring. Because floorboards may warp as the wood begins to dry, it is recommended that the nails, screws or tacks holding them in place be removed to allow for movement. Often, as floorboards dry completely they return to the original shape. Floorboards may take several months before they are ready for re-finishing. A moisture meter will be helpful to assist in the determination of whether the wood is completely dry. Do not resurface until you can be certain of its dryness, as many finishes fail or discolor if applied to damp wood. Wet wood is soft, so protect it from foot traffic, especially high-heels, which can damage it irreparably.
Do not use heating, air conditioning, or other means of forced-air drying of wooden floors. This can cause permanent damage. If the top dries at a faster rate than the bottom, the floorboards will "cup" (turn up in a pronounced manner). It is advisable to remove some of the boards to promote improved air circulation. Also, if the boards

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have begun to warp, remove them and place them in a well-ventilated area where they can dry flat. Do not re-attach warped or warping boards.
Also, any material that contains one percent or more of asbestos fibers must, by federal and state laws, be removed and disposed of in a manner that complies with requirements established by the Environmental Protection Act (EPA), Occupational Safety and Hazard Act (OSHA) and Georgia Environmental Protection Act (GEPA). Skilled professionals should be contracted to do this work. Failure to follow the regulations, even in ignorance, can result in large penalties.
G. CRAWL SPACES
One of the most important places to check for displaced animals, insects, reptiles and other flood debris is the crawl spaces. Do not forget to check the crawl space for flood-soaked insulation between floor joists. Remove it and dispose of it properly. Open any vents which may have been closed prior to the flood, and make sure that air can circulate properly underneath the building. This will aid in the evaporation. If air ducts are located underneath the building, check them for water. Any water in them can breed mold, mildew and corrode the blower motor. Also, the ventilation system can become contaminated with microbes and other bacteria, creating a perfect environment for disease and its distribution throughout the structure. To prevent this, either remove small sections of the duct system or drill small holes in a low spot to drain the water. Holes can be patched later with a piece of sheet metal and duct tape or large sheetmetal screws.
H. UTILITY SYSTEMS
Be certain to check electrical outlets and panel boxes. If these have been flooded, the receptacles and breakers will need to be replaced. Have a professional check out your electrical system thoroughly, especially if the high water line indicates that the water was above the outlets. Short circuiting can be caused by silt collecting in the outlets.
Water can collect in gas lines, causing pilot lights to go out or burn irregularly. Gas can leak if there is a damaged thermal coupling, a faulty valve or stress to the gas line

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itself as a result of shifting under pressure of the waters. Gas hook-ups should be checked. The gas itself should be tested for possible contamination or mixing with other chemicals. If the gas is no longer "clean," using your system can damage appliances and result in additional repair costs.
Additional steps and precautions to take regarding your electrical system, proper repair and restoring power can be found in the American Red Cross booklet "Repairing Your Flooded Home" included in this publication.
I. LANDSCAPES
Remember, historic resources include the landscape as well! While they have received less scrutiny than architectural styles or forms, landscape features are significant resources and worthy of preservation. Historic landscapes typically involve four major features: gardens, yards, grounds and surroundings. Four major variables influence landscapes:
Q the site itself, including its shape, size, topography, orientation, hydrology, soil(s) and vegetation.
Q current landscape trends, fashions, conventions or styles.
Q the capabilities and the goals of the designer(s); perhaps sections were developed over a period of years or for specific needs. Also, it is possible that more than one designer was involved over the course of time.
Q the availability of materials, time, labor and money.

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At least ten major forms of historic landscapes exist:
Craftsman landscaping. Downingesque landscaping. Horticultural landscaping. Landscape revivals during le Fin de la Siecle. Landscape of play. Landscape of work. New South landscaping. Ornamental yards. Suburban landscaping.
During the flood, sewage, fuel oils, petroleum products and other contaminants may have damaged landscape features. These substances will provide their own kind of clean-up problems. However, another serious threat from any of these displaced materials is that it will definitely contaminate the surface soils. If any of these substances has spilled, cautiously remove the layers of surface soil before the water table drops substantially, drawing the contaminants deep into the ground. Dispose of this material according to requirements for toxic materials.
Once you have cleaned the soil itself, you need to clean your landscape. Wash all trees, shrubs, plantings, garden pools, structures, fences and gates, and any statuary. Remove debris and silt. Cut and remove broken limbs.
Inspect all trees and shrubs. Those which have been uprooted can be successfully re-planted if you use caution and follow proper procedures. Damage may not be evident for several months. Contact such experts as landscape architects, landscape gardeners, county extension agents and horticulturists for important guidance in rehabilitating your plants, shrubs and trees.
Other features in your landscape might include metal fencing and sculptures. Such items will need appropriate attention as well. Start by washing with clean water, using a gentle cleanser if necessary. Further steps for care can include: repeat cleanings, use of soft brushes, gentle pressure cleaning and application of protective coatings.
Saturated soils tend to compact and compress. Be careful in your rehabilitation efforts that heavy equipment does not further damage the landscape. Too much weight will compress the wet soil even more. Be sure to contact landscape gardeners/nurseries

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for information and techniques on aeration and other methods of lightening the soil. Too much compression will strangle the roots of trees and shrubs.
Additional information on this topic is available in the National Park Service's Preservation Brief series, distributed by the Historic Preservation Division. Also the National Park Service's Preservation Tech Notes # 1 contain details on bronze sculpture, based on case studies. Call (404)656-2840 to request a copy of briefs #27 and 36 and notes #1.
J. OTHER FEATURES
The above information by no means encompasses the many features of your historic building or site. More information is available regarding:
Q Terra cotta. Q Stucco. Q Historic Storefronts. Q Vitrolite and Carrara Glass. Q Steel Windows. Q Ornamental Plaster. Q Barns. Q Signs. Q Log Structures. Q Architectural Cast Iron. Q Clay Tile Roofs. Q Slate Roofs. Q Stained and Leaded Glass. Q Applied Decoration. Q Stamped Metal Exterior Siding. Q Bronze Sculptures.
Also, other information is available regarding the use of substitute materials and replacing in-kind. Much of this technical information has been collected by the National Park Service, and is distributed by the Historic Preservation Division. It is available to you on request. Please refer to the appendices for a listing of the National Park Service Preservation Brief Series and Tech Notes Series; you may call (404) 656-2840 for single copies, free of charge. Also, an order form has been included in the appendices for your

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convenience. Refer to the appendices.

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HIRING A CONTRACTOR OR ARCHITECT
It will probably be necessary to hire a contractor and/or an architect in your rehabilitation efforts. This step represents your determination to provide the best possible maintenance and care for your structure. Many tasks, such as repointing and masonry repairs and electrical work, can be performed by dependable, established local contractors who have good reputations and skills, even if they have limited experience in working with older and historic buildings. Architects often have little or no training or experience in rehabilitation projects, either. Talk with several contractors and architects about the project. Have them all visit your site and provide estimates on the job, the required materials and the time involved; be sure and let them know that you are accepting bids from different sources. Both architects and contractors should provide references and be willing to discuss the job without pressuring you to sign a contract.
Remember that poorly done work or improperly done work results in more than dissatisfaction, it can damage the structure as well and create the need to re-do the repair work itself. The following advice can be of great benefit to you and your satisfaction regarding the rehabilitation of your structure.
Q Check on the reputation of the contractors and the architects you are considering. Ask the Better Business Bureau, building trades council or home builders association about them. If there are any unanswered complaints, you will be told.
Q Ask for proof of insurance, especially disability and workman's compensation insurance. Otherwise, you might be liable for any injury associated with your building.
Q Require a list of references from both contractors and architects. Once you have the lists, call the clients and ask if they are satisfied; ask if you can see the work.
Q Be careful if someone offers you a "special deal" or claims to lower the price in return for using your building as a model.
Q Ask for written estimates, then carefully study it to make sure that it reflects everything you expect in the project.

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Q Expect to make a down payment of about 30% of the total cost. A payment schedule should be agreed to in advance of signing a contract.
Q If you are being pressured, do not sign a contract. Also remember that federal law allows a three day "cooling-off" period for any unsolicited sale greater than $25. If you have signed a contract under such conditions and you want to cancel it within three days, send written cancellation notice via registered or certified mail, with a signed receipt requested.
Q Have a written contract. Check it before you sign! It should state all the work to be done, the costs, a payment schedule and details regarding guarantees. Be certain you get a copy of it.
Q When the job is completed, do not sign off or write the final check until you have inspected the work and agreed that you are satisfied. Do not be pressured to sign if you are not totally satisfied. Do not pay cash on the spot, especially if you are being pressured to do so.
Q If you have problems with your contractor or architect, contact the state or local consumer protection office for advice.

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RETROFITTING
Retrofitting refers to preventive measures which can help minimize the damage next time it floods. Floods can be classified in two main types: riverine and coastal. These flood types have different characteristics and tend to cause different types of damage. Riverine flooding usually is the result of torrential or prolonged downpours in upstream, inland watersheds. Coastal flooding is typically the end result of hurricanes. Flood waters are driven by high winds, creating a storm surge. The surge and the velocity action of the waves cause more severe flood damage.
To determine the best preventive measures to help you minimize damage the next time it floods, start by determining the type of flooding your building is most likely to receive. Other flood characteristics need to be considered as well: depth, frequency, soil condition, type of construction, condition of structure and local building restrictions. If the water did not reach your place last time, do not assume your structure is safe from future flooding. It is recommended that you consult with local officials to learn more about the kind of flooding and flood damage which has occurred in your area. County extension agents, Regional Development Offices and Federal Emergency Management Agency(FEMA) representatives can provide you with details and data regarding your questions. You will need technical advice from the Historic Preservation Division and from the FEMA before you determine which method or methods best suit the needs and the characteristics of your structure.
It is far better to be prepared, to have planned ahead for future inundations than to expect that flooding will not affect your building. It is commonly misunderstood that a 100-year flood happens only once every hundred years or so. Rather, this term is a statistical tool to estimate the risk of certain flood levels. A 100-year flood means that a flood level has a one-percent chance of being equalled or exceeded in any given year. It is also known as the base flood elevation, or the elevation above mean sea level.
For historic property owners, there are different retrofitting methods to be considered. Naturally, it is recommended that you first contact the Historic Preservation Division for advice and recommendations regarding the impact retrofitting will have on your structure. Then contact FEMA for technical manuals, suggestions and assistance. Be certain to tell FEMA that your structure is an historic one and give details regarding its age, construction materials and construction techniques. The kinds of methods which you should consider are unobtrusive and compatible with your structure's overall architectural style and type and character-defining elements. These methods include:

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Q Wet flood-proofing. Q Dry flood-proofing. Q Closures. Q Levees and Floodwalls. Q Elevation. Q Relocation.
Wet flood-proofing means adjusting a structure or its uses in such a way that future floods will have only minimal impact. The waters are not prevented from entering the structure, as the floodwater helps to counteract the pressure of water on the outside of the structure. Areas which are wet flood-proofed should contain lightweight furnishings that can be quickly removed once an evacuation notice is issued or, conversely, very heavy objects such as furnaces and water heaters, which are securely anchored to prevent them from floating.
Dry flood-proofing, or watertight flood-proofing, is the complete sealing of a structure so that water cannot enter. Dry flood-proofing can be used only on buildings which are structurally sound, constructed of concrete block or brick veneer on wood frame, and subject to flood waters three feet or less. The successful application of sealants requires careful consultation with a structural engineer.
Closures act as shields to cover an opening and prevent the entry of water. They can be permanent or temporary and can be of various materials, shapes or sizes. Closures are a limited option, requiring that the situation will provide sufficient time and warning to properly install them. They are most effective when there are a limited number of openings to cover.
Levees and floodwalls can be used to protect almost any kind of resource. Check local building codes, soil types, zoning restrictions, and property covenants before contracting for this type of protection. Sometimes floodwalls can be constructed to complement the architectural style and the overall appearance of a structure. Floodwall design is dependent on the type of flooding you experience, as water velocity and pressure can create tremendous pressure on this type of structure. Fast-moving waters can erode the footing and cause it to fail, and professional assistance is recommended in order to determine whether the wall will cause flooding of adjacent property or obstruct the floodway itself. Levees are usually less expensive due to the type of materials used, but levees also require considerable property space to construct correctly. Seepage is another drawback to this solution.
Elevation is the process of raising the entire structure on its existing site to a level above the known flood hazard. If done properly, elevation effectively puts the structure and its contents

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out of harm's way and means that almost no other steps are required in response to flooding. The velocity of flood waters does need to be considered, along with soil type and the possibility of soil erosion undermining a foundation to the point of collapse. There are many facets of this equation which need to be evaluated. Elevation presents other considerations, including overall visual impact.
Relocation means moving a structure out of the floodplain entirely. This is the most reliable of retrofitting choices in terms of being our of the path of floodwaters, but it is not always the most logical or the best choice for a structure. Structural condition and construction methods are important factors to be considered. Usually this extreme measure is only advisable when it is the only way for a resource to survive.
A considerable amount of information and technical material has been prepared regarding retrofitting methods and techniques, some of which have been listed in the reference section. FEMA is the distributor and the producer of most of these manuals. If you have decided to retrofit your structure, contact FEMA representatives and the Historic Preservation Division to request an on-site inspection and evaluation of your property.

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CONCLUSION
The Historic Preservation Division distributed the $2.45 million emergency relief funds for historic preservation in a broad manner, with the intent of focusing the greatest amount in the rehabilitation of historic properties. Funding efforts have shown that historic preservation can be an effective part of disaster recovery in both the short and long term. Activities funded through the disaster relief grant include:
Q 68 projects directly affecting and rehabilitating over 100 resources: R private residences. R private businesses. R non-profit organizations. R cemetery R public buildings, including 2 courthouses and 2 jails. R 3 block grants, to 2 historic downtown central business districts. R predevelopment and feasibility studies.
Q 2 archaeological projects: R Assessment of damage to known sites in the fifty-five flooded counties. R Development of a pilot program to encourage archaeological site stewardship, and to foster a partnership between the state and private individuals who own lands encompassing known but undeveloped sites along the Flint River.
Q 2 architects to assist in professional oversight of projects. Q 3 workshops:
R "Your Town After the Flood," co-sponsored with the National Trust for Historic Preservation.
R "Wind and Water Workshop," led by John Leeke, Preservation Consultant.
R "Economic Benefits of Historic Preservation," in association with both the Middle Flint and the Southwest Georgia Regional Development Centers.
Q video documenting flood recovery efforts and impact of preservation in rural areas.
Q funds to the Georgia Trust for preservation planner. Q 3 staff members to administer the program.

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GLOSSARY
Architectural style is determined by a building's overall form and ornamentation. Construction techniques and materials and floor plan and interior layout also have a role in the definition of architectural style.
Character-defining elements are the visual or tangible aspects of a building, related to its type, style, construction methods, or materials. To help you determine the character-defining elements of your building, use the character-defining forms included in this publication.
Coastal flooding is typically the end result of hurricanes. Flood waters are driven by high winds, creating a storm surge. The surge and the velocity action of the waves cause more severe flood damage.
Damage assessment is perhaps the most critical part of properly rehabilitating a historic resource. The overall, as well as the specific condition, of the structure should be considered. Structural soundness, leaking roofs, leaning or separating chimneys, broken windows, damaged walls, and sagging ceilings need to be evaluated. Desiccants are drying agents which soak up moisture, like clay cat litter, chemical packs for drying out boats and closets or calcium chloride.
Dry flood-proofing, or watertight flood-proofing, is the complete sealing of a structure so that water cannot enter.
Drying-in refers to the steps taken to secure the exterior of a building damaged by water. These measures are usually simple, but are often complicated by the scarcity of supplies (like plywood, generators, and roofing felt) and the high demand for contractors experienced in historic buildings who work at reasonable rates.
Drying-out refers to the process of circulating air around and through the interior of a structure so that it can dry out thoroughly and evenly.
Elevation is the process of raising the entire structure on its existing site to a level above the known flood hazard.
Form is the massing, scale, proportion, and symmetry or asymmetry of a building, and the

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interaction of its parts such as height, depth and width or solids and voids.
One-hundred year flood is a statistical tool to estimate the risk of certain flood levels. Known also as the base flood elevation, it means that a specific flood level has a one-percent chance of being equalled or exceeded in any given year.
Ornamentation is the decoration put on or into a building in an arranged or systematic pattern.
Recovery refers to the clean-up of your structure after the damage is done.
Recovery plan refers to the written strategy you intend to use after a disaster has struck. Use completed damage assessment forms, character-defining forms, architectural style and form as the basis for this detailed strategy to guide you through the frustrating and tiresome processes of drying-in and drying-out.
Relocation means moving a structure out of the floodplain entirely.
Retrofitting refers to preventive measures which can help minimize the damage next time floodwaters threaten your structure.
Riverine flooding usually is the result of torrential or prolonged downpours in upstream, inland watersheds.
Spalling is the chipping or breaking of the block or brick as a result of the soluble salts (naturally present in the concrete or brick) dissolving and being carried to the surface as the water evaporates but due to sealants or paints the salts are trapped by the sealant, then crystalize and expand, and through internal pressure cause the block or brick to flake.
Toenailing refers to the process of a structure being attached by nails and/or screws at an angle through posts to a metal or wooden "plate" set in concrete; the pilings act as the foundations.
Type refers to the overall form, or outline, of the main part of the building, as well as the interior's general layout. The easiest way to determine type is to
Wet flood-proofing means adjusting a structure or its uses in such a way that future floods will have only minimal impact.

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REFERENCES
AIA Georgia. "Flood Water Damage and Recovery." Maschke Associates, Albany, Georgia.
American Red Cross and Federal Emergency Management Agency. "Repairing Your Flooded Home."
Bucher, Ward. "Drying-In and Drying-Out: Flood-damage Lessons from Hurricane Hugo," Old House Journal, Vol. XIX No. 2, March/April, 1991.
Curtis, John Obed. "Moving Historic Buildings," U.S. Department of the Interior, Heritage Conservation and Recreation Service, Technical Preservation Services Division, Washington, D. C. 1979.
Federal Emergency Management Agency. "Design Guidelines for Flood Damage Reduction," FEMA-15, December, 1981.
Federal Emergency Management Agency. "Elevated Residential Structures," FEMA-54, March, 1984.
Federal Emergency Management Agency. "Retrofitting Flood-prone Residential Structures," FEMA-114, September, 1986.
Historic Preservation Section. "Georgia's Living Places: Historic Homes in Their Landscaped Settings," Georgia Department of Natural Resources. February, 1991.
James, Sarah. "Safeguarding Your Historic Site: Basic Preparedness and Recovery Measures for Natural Disasters," FEMA, Region I, 1992.
National Trust for Historic Preservation. "Treatment of Flood-Damaged Older and Historic Buildings," Information Booklet No. 82, 1983.
National Park Service. "The Secretary of the Interior's Standards for Rehabilitation and Guidelines for Rehabilitating Historic Buildings," U.S. Department of the Interior, Preservation Assistance Division, Washington, D. C. 1976, 1983, and 1990.
Van Beck, Sandra. "Before Disaster Strikes: A Primer on Preparing a Museum Collections Emergency Operations Plan," Gulf Coast Support Office, Southeast Field Area. August, 1995.

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RESOURCES
In addition to disaster relief agencies which can assist in providing immediate, personal aid during a crisis, there are public, private and non-profit agencies which can provide information and help regarding the preservation of historic resources.
The National Trust for Historic Preservation is a Congressionally chartered, non-profit organization. The National Trust provides technical assistance, grant programs, publications, workshops and initiatives such as the rural preservation program. The Southern Regional office is located in Charleston, South Carolina, phone (803) 722-8552.
As previously mentioned, Georgia's state historic preservation office is the Georgia Department of Natural Resources' Historic Preservation Division (HPD). The main number is (404) 656-2840.
The Georgia Trust for Historic Preservation is the largest non-profit statewide organization in the country. It offers a diverse array of services and works closely with HPD. The Trust is a strong advocate of the benefits of historic preservation, offers design assistance to the Main Street program, and provides a variety of educational and informational programs. It has been an active supporter of flood recovery programs in the wake of Tropical Storm Alberto. Its main number is (404) 881-9980.
The Department of Industry, Tourism and Trade is the state agency that administers the Georgia Main Street Program. Main Street combines economic development with historic preservation, encouraging the adaptive re-use of existing structures. This broad approach to downtown revitalization focuses on smaller communities; its goal is to foster economic growth without sacrificing the qualities that make a town distinctive. The main number is (404) 6563545.
The following public agencies and non-profit organizations are involved in promoting community development, of which preservation is a vital component:
Q Georgia Municipal Association . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (404)688-0472 Q Association County Commissioners of Georgia . . . . . . . . . . . . (404)522-5022 Q Georgia Downtown Development Association . . . . . . . . . . . . (770)386-6458
The Certified Local Government program (CLG) is mandated by the National Historic

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Preservation Act, and is recognized as an important technique for local governments to use in their preservation activities. By strengthening a community's preservation program and its link with the State Historic Preservation Office, the CLG program enhances the local government's role in preservation. Any city, town, or county which has enacted a historic preservation ordinance, enforces it through a local preservation commission, and has met requirements outlined in the Procedures for Georgia's Certified Local Government Program, is eligible to become a CLG. For more information on the CLG program, contact Pratt Cassity, at the address listed below.
University of Georgia 609 Caldwell Hall Athens, Georgia 30602 (706) 542-4731
On a local level, Georgia has fifteen Regional Development Centers which house Historic Preservation Planning Programs. Contact names and addresses are listed below.
ALTAMAHA/GEORGIA SOUTHERN: Ms. Robin S. Nail P.O. Box 459 Baxley, Georgia 31513 Phone: 912/367-3648 Fax: 912/367-3640
CENTRAL SAVANNAH RIVER: Ms. Anne S. Floyd P.O. Box 2800 Augusta, Georgia 30914 Phone: 706/737-1823 Fax: 706/737-1823
CHATTAHOOCHEE-FLINT: Ms. Lynne Miller P.O. Box 1600 Franklin, Georgia 30217 Phone: 706/675-6721 Fax: 706/675-0448
COASTAL GEORGIA Ms. Ellen Andrews P.O. Box 1917

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Brunswick, Georgia 31521 Phone: 912/264-7363 Fax: 912/262-2313
COOSA VALLEY Mr. Dan H. Latham, Jr. P.O. Box 1793 Rome, Georgia 30163-1001 Phone: 706/295-6485 Fax: 706/295-6665
GEORGIA MOUNTAINS Ms. Jorene Martin P.O. Box 1720 Gainesville, Georgia 30503 Phone: 404/536-3431 Fax: 404/531-5696
LOWER CHATTAHOOCHEE Mr. Brandon Brazil 1428 2nd Street, P.O. Box 1908 Columbus, Georgia 31902 Phone: 706/649-7468 Fax: 706/649-1214
MIDDLE FLINT Ms. Stella Gray Bryant 228 West Lamar Street Americus, Georgia 31709 Phone: 912/928-4120 Fax: 912/928-0177
MIDDLE GEORGIA Ms. Adrian Wood 175-C Emery Highway Macon, Georgia 31201 Phone: 912/751-6160 Fax: 912/751-6517
NORTH GEORGIA Mr. Kevin McAuliff 503 West Waugh Street Dalton, Georgia 30720 Phone: 706/272-2300 Fax: 706/2253

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NORTHEAST GEORGIA Mr. Burke Walker 305 Research Drive Athens, Georgia 30610 Phone: 706/369-5650 Fax: 706/369-5792
SOUTH GEORGIA Mr. James Horton 327 W. Savannah Avenue Valdosta, Georgia 31603 Phone: 912/333-5277 Fax: 912/333-5312
SOUTHEAST GEORGIA Mr. Michael Jacobs 3395 Harris Road Waycross, Georgia 31503 Phone: 912/285-6097 Fax: 912/285-6126
SOUTHWEST GEORGIA Mr. Paul Forgey P.O. Box 346 Camilla, Georgia 31730 Phone: 912/336-5616 Fax: 912/430-4337