Strolls About Athens
During
The Early Seventies *
SYLVANUS AORRIS, L. L. D.
GENERAL UBRAKY
UNIVERSITY OF GEORGIA:
.GEORGIA
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STROLL I.
OUT COLLEGE AVENUE.
RMMOTO! of th Coafederat* MmnuMtt fr DMtfhwty Hifl to Brawl Stnot.
One bright day in August, 1869, there came up Broad street a procession composed of the members of the Pioneer Hook and Ladder Company, drawing the new trucks which had just arrived over the Georgia Railroad. The procession was led by Grif Johnson playing fife, George Macintosh banging on the bass drum, and another colored citizen making the kettle drum rattle in a fearful and awesome way. In front of the campus gate the trucks were christened and Miss Callie Cobb broke a bottle of champagne over them. At that time the campaign for funds to build the monument was on in full vigor. It was brought to a successful close two years later, when the monument was placed on Dougherty Hill with appropriate ceremonies. Much of the success was due to the untiring energy of Mrs. Williams Ruther ford, President of the Memorial Association.
The removal of the monument suggests a stroll from the campus gate up College avenue. On our left is the Newton House, the same then as today, except for the wear of the years and the change of name to the Commercial HoteL Mr. Wharton was the proprietor. There was a belfry on the roof, in which hung a bell, about as large as the average negro church bell. It, the bell, not the belfry, was rung to. warn the hungry villagers of meal-times. The corner store under the Newton House was occupied by Rich & Morton, dealers in mens clothing. Next to the corner we find the Southern Express Company with Capt. William Williams in charge. Yon Ecklens beer saloon and billiard room came next. M. Myers & Co., then and for many years after conducted a successful dry goods business in the building where the cafe" now is. James Dorseys grocery store was next to the Claytofi street corner. The Andersen Bank corner was a music and jewelry store kept by W. A. Talmadge. Afterwards in this corner store Talmadge & Hodgson started business. Coming back to the campus gate we find A. M.

Scndders book store on the corner on our right. The occupant of the store so long known as the Brumby Drug Co. slips our memory. McDowelTs wooden dwelling house and store, harness shop, and millinery, came next. The Vonderlieth house long remained unchanged. In one side was Wells shoe shop, in the other Mrs. Vonderlieths millinery and toy shop. The post office was on the corner now occupied by C. A. Scudder. R. S. Taylor was postmaster. Crossing Clayton street, the block now occupied by the Speer home and the Hodgson-Shackelford Build ing was the home of Mr. John Newton. The Speer house is not changed externally, except in color. The office now occupied by Dr. Goss stood at the corner and a high fence on Clayton street enclosed the garden. W. A. Jester once ran a store in that office and afterward Hon. Emory Speer had it for his law office. The Hodgaon-Shackelford building was erected by Thomas N. Lester and was long known as Lester Hall. In the Clayton street corner, on the second floor, Hon. Pope Barrow had his law office ad joining that of the ever-charming Charley Hill. In his office as students (?) were the present Chancellor of the University, Mr. . K. Lumpkin, and the present Dean of the University Law School. After years of location elsewhere, Hon. E. K. Lumpkin today sits at his desk in the spot where he first "brooked the rusty curb of old father antique, the law." The K. J. W. Club gave many a merry dance in Lester Hall. The mention of the K. J. W. will bring a warm glow to the hearts of many in Georgia.
We mentioned Mr. Newton and spoke of him as Mr. John Newton. No man in Athens was more widely known throughout North Georgia than Mr. Newton, and to thousands he was Mr. John H. Newton. His son-in-law told the stroller that a letter came to Athens addressed to "Mr. John Aitch," and the post master promptly delivered it to Mr. Newton. It was said that he owned land in every state and territory of the Union. "When the stroller "went the circuit" as a young lawyer, and inhabited the "menageries," at the country taverns he had thepleasure of knowing Mr. Newton. It is a pleasure to recall his charming personality, and his sympathy with young men.
Two of the guns of Troupe artillery were named for Mr. Newtons daughters, now Mrs. Lamar Cobb, and Mrs. Henry H. Carlton. When Franklins corps, twenty thousand strong, forced

the pass at Crampton Gap, two days before the battle of Sharpsburg, the position was held by (Jens. Sims and Gobb with 2500 men. One of the guns of Troupe artillery was captured in the crest of the gap, after the carriage was disabled. The stroller, after diligent inquiry, cannot say if it was the Helen or the Olivia. Gen. Franklin, in his report mentions the capture of the gun, but does not give the name, for the excellent reason that he did not know it.
On the east side of the avenue the Lombard House stood where the Southern Mutual Building now is. W. N. Haudrup had a shoe shop in it, and C. B. Veronee occupied the rest 6f it. The Baptist church was replaced by the present church on the same site. Crossing Washington (then Market) street, on our left the city hall lot was the Charles Dongherty home, then owned by Col. John I. Huggins, and occupied by bis son-in-law, Hon. S. M. Herrington. The law office stood at the corner of College avenue and Market (now Washington) street, and was used by the city engineer until demolished. Opposite the city hall, the present government reservation, was then the home of Mrs. Pope. Her son-in-law, Major Marcellus Stanley, and his family lived with her. The house has been moved back and is now on the corner diagonally across from the synagogue. On the corner of College and Hancock avenue was a small house occupied by Ferdinand Adams, afterwards by Dr. W. A. Carlton. Crossing Hancock avenue, the Charles Stern house was occupied by the Morrisons. The Crawford house on the next block is still stand ing and is one of the oldest houses in Athens.
It was in the strollers young days the scene of many a pleas ant meeting. The Dickens Club, under the guiding hand of Mrtf. E. A. Crawford, brought together a bright and congenial group. The members of the Dickens Club, now alive, wherever they be, will have many a pleasant memory at mention of the name.
On the next block Mr. W. P. Hutcheson lived. On the oppo site side of the avenue there was no house beyond Hancock avenue. There was a deep ravine crossed by a plank. At the foot of the hill, (now Hoyt street) where the street car track crosses College avenue was a marsh. Climbing over a rail fence, we were in Dr. Wares woods, considerable woods they were too. Following the path through the woods we came to Moores branch, where we bathed in the river.

STROLL II.
UP BROAD STREET.
A few years ago in one of the Philippine Islands there was an insurrection. The last stand of the inaurreetos was made in the crater of an extinct volcano. Pretty much the whole crowd was wiped out. Among the weapons picked up on the field after the battle (f) was an old muzzle-loading rifle, on the lock plate of which was the inscription: "Made in Athens, Georgia." The old gun did not know that the war had been over for nearly half a century, and was still going along fulfilling her destiny, shoot ing at Uncle Sams soldiers. Standing at the foot of Broad streetjand looking across the river the stroller sees the old arm ory, the birthplace of that old gun, very much as it has always been. For many years it has been the Check Factory, making cotton goods.
Starting from the ferry at the foot of Broad street, we find unoccupied land until we reach Col. Isaac Wilkersons home on the right, just south of the point where the Central Railroad crosses Broad street. The Georgia Railroad depot was on Carrs Hill on the other side of the river, and there was no other rail road running to Athens. The next house was Capt. Doraeys residence, still standing at the top of the hill. The Dorsey triangle on the opposite side of the street was vacant. On the corner of Broad and Thomas streets was the grocery store of Center & Reeves, the largest store in Athens and one of the largest in this part of the State. Crossing Thomas street, we find .on the left side the old Franklin House, still unchanged. The stores in the block were ChUdgJb Nickereon. hardware; the present Athens Hardware Co., C^^Morris^ dry goods; J. C. Turner, groceries; L.Morris, dry goods; Griffeth^&_Crane, gen eral store; Jacobs & Michael, dry goods; Matthews, general store. Coming back to Thomas street, we have on our right, Deupree Hall in course of construction, Capt. James McCulloch was architect, and Capt. J. W. Brumby, the contractor. It was con sidered a wonder and people came for miles to see it. It was the scene of the only theatrical performances of that day, the

Swiss Bell Ringers and Sol Smtih Russell, Old John Templeton barn-stormed there in tragedy and moral plays. The May party for the benefit of the monument, opened the Deupree Hall. None who saw it will ever forget it. The children who celebrated that May are grandparents now at least some of them are. The first circus to visit Athens after the war spread its canvass on that corner. When the stroller first saw it there was no building on the block except the unfinished Deupree Hall, and three stores Maddrey, Pitner, and Marks, up next to the Wall street corner. Crossing Wall street and coming to the corner now occu pied by-Webb & Crawford we find the merchants in the follow ing order: Huggins & Dpbbs. groceries; Summey & Newton, hardware; M. Q. & J. Cohen. dry goods; Homer and Haas, jewelry; F. "W. Lucas, dry goods and clothing, and JB. R. Bishop on the corner. Tip-stairs over the corner of Broad and Spring streets was the Athens Banner, published and edited by Hon. H. H. Carlton. The name was for awhile changed to the North east Georgian. Here Hon. P. A. Stovall served his apprentice ship as a journalist. Before the time of which we are now speaking, the paper had been edited by James Sledge, and before him by CoL Holt
The stroller recalls with vivid pleasure how Col. John I. Huggins, clerk of the superior court, used to tell of the descent upon the town of Jane Young. She had been offended by some thing published in the Banner. Suddenly one day she appeared in the office, asked a printer if he were the publisher of the paper. He unwarily said he was. She shot him as he stood at the case. The printers left that place by every mode of egress, mainly the windows. She then proceeded to terrorise the town until finally corralled by Capt. Dorsey. Meeting Dick Saulter, 1 and asking if he were the editor, he made his long whip give a resounding crack, saying, "No, Mam, I am a stage driver."
On the corner of Broad and Wall streets we find Sansom & Pittard, grocers. Up-staira was the Watchman, edited by John H. Christy, one of the most prominent and substantial citizens of Athens. Col. Christy was elected to congress from this dis trict, but was unseated by a republican congress* The other stores on the block were kept by Newt Rhodes, I. M. Kenney,

and J. M. Barry. For many years Col. 8. P. Thurmands law office was tip-stairs on the Barry Corner.
This brings the stroller to the University campus. The faculty of the University were: Dr. Andrew A. Lipscomb, chancellor, and Dr. William L. Jones, Williams Rutherford, William H. Waddell, William LeBoy Broun, Charles Morris, Leon H. Charbonnier, and Frank A. Lipscomb. All except Dr. Jones and Col. Charbonnier have "passed over the river." Strange to say, the youngest was the first to go, gifted, cultured Frank Lipscomb.
The National Bank has undergone no change in all these years. It seems to typify solidity and permanency. Mr. Ferdy Adams was cashier and teller, and Mr. James A. Carlton was book keeper. One-half of the present bank -quarters was the office of the Southern Mutual Insurance Co., Hon. T. L. G. Harris, president, and Mr. Stevens Thomas, secretary. The rest of the block has changed but little, the building of the Savings Bank exeepted. We find Mrs. F. A. Adams, millinery; B. M. Smith, drugs ;JJong & Billupa, drugs; C. Stern, clothing; A. S. Mandeville, jewelry. Those wSo~aecompanied the stroller up College avenue may recall that Seudders book store was on the corner of College and Broad. Passing the Newton House, we find Flisehs, of pleasant memory. No better confectioner has ever been in the State than Flisch. Frozen cream in those days of iceless summers in Athens was well worth the 25 cents a saucer. His talented daughter has long been a member of the faculty of the Normal College at Milledgeville. Dr. Benedicts house and the Elks Club lot was the home of Mrs. B. E. Deloney, widow of the gallant William G. Deloney, who gave his life for the Confederacy. This house and the land of that end of the block were once owned by William Williams. The land for the Episco pal church, now occupied by Holman Building was bought from him. He owned Princeton Factory. One of his daughters mar ried Dr. William L. Jones. Prof. Charles McCay married an other daughter. The charter of the Georgia Railroad was within a few days of expiring, because the requisite stock had not been taken. Mr. Williams took the balance and saved the charter. The charter is for a road from Augusta, through Athens to Chattanooga, "Roas Landing." Atlanta was then Marthasville.

The balance mentioned -was one million dollars, a goodly um how, but more goodly then.
Crossing Lampion street, the land on the left was vacant. The first circus the stroller attended in Athens "showed" where the new T. M. C. A. building will be located. On the right we had the gardens and lot of Bev. Matthew H. Hendenon. The noon stood about where the Banner office how is. It was moved and became the nucleus of the present Green Hotel. Crossing Hull street we had then and now on our left the spadons grounds of CoL Mortons place, the handsomest residence and grounds, (the stroller thinks) in Athens. On the right the McWhorter home, and the A. M. Jackson home remain un changed. When Gen. John B. Gordon was a college boy he boarded with Mrs. McWhorter. His friendship for the family continued throughout his life.
As the stroller reaches the tanyard branch, he is reminded that the "Botanical Garden" extended along the ravine above
and below Broad street. But the garden was a thing of the past in the early seventies. The lake and boathonse were near Knoz school. Nothing was left except some rare trees. The story has been often told how the willow in the garden came from a sprig from one of the willows over Napoleons grave at Longwood on St. Helena. William H. Crawford was minister to France during practically the whole of Napoleons career. He was the only minister of a foreign country who did not leave Paris during the hundred days after the return from Elba. When Napoleons body was brought to Paris and placed in the grand mausoleum under the dome of the Hotel des Invalides, the French government had sprigs of willow from Longwood rooted, and sent to representatives of friendly countries. The sprig sent to Mr. Crawford came after that gentlemans death.
It was given to Dr. W. H. Jackson, father of Hon. Henry B. Jackson, author of the "Bed Old Hills of Georgia." He had been Chief of Legation, and by him it was given to Dr. Ward, manager of the garden. The tree stands on the lot of the widow of the late Madison Davis. The stroller takes occasion in passing to say, Athens owes unending gratitude to "Matt Davis." He represented the county in the legislature at a time when he might have done almost irreparable harm. His conduct was honest,

sensible, conservative. But the story of the "Botanical Garden" is folly told by Rev. Boykin, and the paper is among the archives of the Athens Historical Society.
Standing on the culvert over the tanyard branch, the stroller recalls that just above the street, on the branch, is a gold mine, from which one citizen panned a living for a long time. But that was before the stroller came to Athens. The mine is still there. As to the gold, that is another story. A more interesting thing is the great oak growing up close to the side of the culvert. It is called a Spanish oak. Why, the stroller has never been able to learn; probably because it is not Spanish. The acorncups are sometimes as large as a tea-cup, provided the tea-cup is not too large.
The stroller recalls no houses on Broad street after leaving the Asa M. Jackson house, except the Swann house on the first rise of the hill beyond the tanyard branch. There were then as now houses occupied by colored people. Nelson McCombs family still live at the place on the corner of Broad and Church. The first election the stroller ever saw at short range was when Hon. H. H. Carlton defeated Nelson McCombs for the legislature. Beyond Milledge avenue the stroller recalls only one house, the Sledge home. It is how owned by Henry Derrieotte. And so we end our stroll on Broad street at this point. In every season of the year the cloud effects in the afternoon sky visible from the Sledge home will repay the walk to this spot.
10

STROLL III.
UP CLAYTON AND DOWN WASHINGTON STREETS
Glayton and Washington streets extend from Foundry on the east to Pulaski on the west. Starting on Clayton at Foundry street, we find on the south side of Clayton street but few, if any houses, until we cross Jackson. There were some small wooden houses but most of the space was vacant. Dave Hembrick had a wood shop at the corner of Wall street. The stroller and others once borrowed his boat without asking permission, but as it was safely returned nothing came of the incident. The north side of Glayton street between Foundry and Thomas had then as now the side yard of the Niekerson hoine. Mr. A. K. Childs had lived there, but had sold the place to Mr. Beuben Nickerson, and the latter lived there until his death a few years ago. The place is unchanged and is one of the land marks of Athens. When the stroller first knew it, the block on the north side of Clayton street between Thomas and Jackson was occupied by two resi dences, the old Augustin S. Clayton home and the E. P. Clayton home. At that time the widow of Judge Clayton was alive, and her son-in-law, Dr. William King, and his family, had their home with her. Dr. King was mayor or perhaps intendent of Athens. There has never been a more lovable or purer citizen of Athens than Dr. King. The stroller has played croquet on the corner of Thomas and Clayton, now covered with brick stores, with Miss King, a belle- of that day, now the wife of Hon. W. M. Howard of Lexington. It was from the old Clayton home that Henry W. Grady led his girl bride, the eldest daugh ter of Dr. and Mrs. King. Clayton street was named for Judge Augustin 8. Clayton. He was the most prominent citizen of Athens of his day. Among other things, he was one of the original promoters of the Georgia Factory, the first mill for the manufacture of cotton cloth south of the Potomac. His wife was Miss Julia Carnes, daughter of Judge Games, for whom Carnesville in Franklin county was named. Mrs. Hull, widow of Mr. Asbury Hull, a friend of Mrs. Claryton, made her home
11

>.
>l

at the old Clayton house. Before her marriage to Mr. Hall, she

was the widow Cook. Her husband painted the picture of the

-

^ nave of St. Peters Cathedral, now in the University Chapel.

^ It was presented to the University by Mrs. Clinch, a sister of

cC

Cd- Stereos Thomas.

*

Mr. E. P. Claytons house was built as a branch of the bank

of the State of Georgia, was bought by him when the bank was

discontinued. The house was afterward changed into the Clay-

ton HoteL

An elderly citizen, many years ago, told the stroller why the

part of Jackson street, between Broad and Clayton was called

Cat-Alley. Joe Keno, his name was Zebinee, kept a restaurant, and had the contract to feed the cats kept in the stores for pro

tection against rats. He would get out in Cat Alley and give a yell, and the rush of the swarm of hungry cats was fierce.

The stroller recalls Joe Keno as a night watchman, with lan tern and stick, followed by a three-legged dog. It was said that

dog never had but three legs. "When Joe came from the army

on a furlough, (he was cook for Troupe Artillery), some one, in disgust, told him he had "graybacka" on him. His reply was,

"Shineral Shaxon is abust convered with em."

Crossing Jackson street we find on the south ride the house where Mr. B. L. Bloomfield lived before he moved to the Bloom-

field home.now owned by Mr. Alien Talmage; the house of CK

Jacobs, and the postoffice on the corner of College avenue. Yean

after the date of our stroll, Mr. C. D. Flanigen established the

first ice business in Athens in the wooden building on the corner of Clayton and Jackson. The stroller was a resident there.

One of the employees was a deaf and dump colored boy, Isaiah

Stroud, now a prosperous citizen of Los Angeles. It was a rare and somewhat incongruous but very congenial aggregation.

Isaiah was one of the brightest boys the stroller ever saw. He

delivered ice in spite of his misfortune with great accuracy.

The other member of the concern worth mentioning was the

mule Doofunny, who drew the delivery wagon.

The block on the north side of the street between Jackson and

College avenue was occupied by the house of Dr. B. M. Smith, the Lombard building, and the Baptist church. The Smith

12

home stood on a high hill, about where the stage of the Colonial Theatre now is.
It had grand oaks in the front yard, and the front gate was about the middle of the block. Dr. Smith was for many years a successful and beloved physician in Athens. He was lecturer on Medical Jurisprudence in the University Law School, when the stroller was a law student. The Southern Mutual building stands on the site of the Lombard building. Crossing College avenue and passing W. A. Talmadges music store on the left, there Were some wooden buildings which long stood, an eyesore there. Happily they are all gone, except the place where Huberts harness shop now is. In that building Mr. William Wood had a furniture store. He was the father of the efficient treasurer of the city. Emmanuel church stood on the corner where the Holman building now stands. Dr. Mathew H. Henderson was rector. Dr. Richard D. Moore and Mr. R. L. Bloomfield were wardens, of all the men in the church of that day only Mr. Bloomfield is left.
The block on the north side between College avenue and Lumpkin street was occupied by the residences of Mr. John H. Newton and Mr. Louis J. Lampkin.
Mr. Lampkins house was about opposite the wooden building where Huberts shop now is. It was afterward the Clinard Hotel, and gave way to the present buildings.
Crossing Lumpkin street the block on the left was occupied by Dr. Hendersons home. The house was about opposite the church, the rest of the block was garden and grass lot. On the north side, the .Tgni-nn Hillyer homer place covered the block between Lumpkin and Hull streets. The law office stood where the Y. M. C. A. building now is. The house has lately been moved and faces Washington street. Judge Hillyer lived to great age, held high rank as a lawyer and a citizen. His protest to taking the oath as a member of the Thunderbolts is a curious and interesting document. That however, is a part of the history of the Thunderbolts, which unfortunately has not been written. On the corner of Clayton and fnlasM was the home of Madame Gouvain. There is a very readable sketch of this lady in "An nals of Athens," by A. L. Hull. She was twice married, first to Gen. DelaPerriere, and second to Michel Gouvain. Her
13
* Uf by Dr. Ale/, jL.nton in /Ul

maiden name was De Trobriand. She says her name was Rosalie Benie Marie Claudine Josephine Ivron Vincent Dennis de Kederon de Trobriand. She exchanged lands in the West Indies for the DEstaing grant near Athens, made by the State to Count DEstaing. Her sister, the Countess de Yillars, was a lady in waiting at the court of the Empress Josephine. Madame Gouvains descendants have letters from the empress showing affec tionate friendship. Madame Gouvain was long dead before the stroller came to Athens. The Gouvain chateau was originally where the Georgia depot is now. Hon. Asa M. Jackson once gave the stroller a handsome rose which he said they called grandmas rose. It was from a cutting brought by Madame Gouvain from Malmaison.
In the ordinarys office at the court house there used to be an old table on which the stroller has copied many a mile of records: It belonged to the Gouvains, it was a remarkable table because it was made without nails or any metal whatever. When the new courthouse is built if the commissioners dont return it to the owner, Miss Evie Jackson, the stroller hopes they will give it to Tiimy first as a table and second as a souvenir.
Beaching Pulaski street we have the house then occupied by the Alexanders of Savannah in front of us. Turning up Pulaski to the foot of Washington street, we leave the Boss Crane house, now Mrs. P. S. Marks home, and turn eastward along Washing ton. Mrs. Wayland Smiths home was then as now on the corner but those grand oaks had not then become objects of admiration. The street on both sides was practically unbuilt until we pass rL!* u, -: !<^__^- lHiviellrystrsetaebt.le. ThOenrethwaetrebloonckthinatthbelocckenstoe- mr eofsmthaellsstrtoeeretsw, aasndthea old Town Hall. It faced toward Lumpkin street. There was a double row of china trees, and a well in front. It was the scene of many events interesting to early Athenians.
The first time the stroller was ever in the Town Hall, he wit nessed the "Burlesque May Party," given by the University students. Many of the actors have since taken high places in church and state.
It was used as the court house for awhile after Oconee county was cut off, and the county seat moved here from Watkinsville. The stroller heard Hon. Benjamin H. Hill argue a case there,
14

and his speech made the deepest impression of any of the many the stroller has ever listened to. The story has been often told that during the unpleasantness between the North and South there was a fear that the enemy were coming to Athens. A meeting was held and resolutions adopted, that on the approach of danger, Dr. Moore should fire the double-barrel cannon, then in front of the Town Hall. All the women were to get inside and the men were to form a circle and fight the foul invader to the death. One calm Sunday when the women were at church, and the men lying around home with little clothes on, some devilish boys fired that gun. The ensuing scene baffles descrip tion. The women ran screaming, the churches broke up, and the men appeared as they were. After the excitement subsided the hall was found packed with men, not a woman could get inside. The number of the wounded in the scuffle to get inside has never been reported.
The Methodist parsonage stood where the present parsonage is. On the block between Lumpkin street and College avenue, no houses fronted the street. The firemens hall stood in the center of the street in the middle of the block.
Athens of that day is fragrant with the memories of Hope Fire Company and Pioneer Hook and Ladder Company. The parades with engines, trucks, red shirts, Captain Bishop with great silver trumpet and long cloak, were excelled in interest only by an actual fire. Ah! there was a scene to remember. Everybody ran to the fire, men, women, children, small boys, niggers and dogs, and all yelled, howled and barked. But the great thing was saving(T) the furniture out of the burning building. The stroller knew an elderly gentleman whose house was near a fire, to stand at his-gate and threaten physical vio lence to anyone who attempted to save his belongings. -The stroller, long after the time of our stroll, was a member of Pioneer, and reacehd the scene of several conflagrations in time to help save the chimneys. Ah! well! those were happy days, and Pioneer brought many a prize home from firemens tourna ments.
We have already said that at the College avenue corners of Washington street were the Charles Dougherty house, the John H. Newton house, Mrs. Popes house, and the Baptist church,
15

and that was all until we cross Jackson street and find Dr. Carl-

tons office on the corner, and Mr. James Carltons house, now

the Industrial Home. The east side was the rear of the Clayton

places.

^.

Crossing Thomas street we have on our left Dr. B. D. Moores

house, now Mr. B. K. Reaves house. Dr. Moore was one of the

most prominent citizens of Athens. It was in recognition of

his energy in securing the gift to the University of the Physics

and Engineering building that it was named Moore College.

He was the prince of doctors.

On our right was the home of Mr. Peter A. Summey, now

the Olive Lawn Hotel. Students boarded there, and many a

happy hour has the stroller spent there. So we come to the

end of the street. It was then Market street, because when a

beef was killed, the Town Hall bell was rung and people went

to buy fresh meat. The name has been changed to Washington,

but why Washington particularly, the stroller has not learned.

STROLL IV.
UP HANCOCK AVENUE; OUT PULASKI AND UP PRINCE AVENUE AND HILL STREET.
Starting at Foundry street we begin our stroll up Hancock avenue, with Dr. B. D. Moores house on our left, and Dr. Henry Hulls house on our right. Dr. Hull was the realisation of the ideal of the gracious Southern gentleman. His Athens sketches are prized by all lovers of Old Athens. He was one time professor in the University. Many happy times has the stroller had in that hospitable home.
Crossing Thomas street we have on our left Dr. Joseph Carltona house about the middle of the block. It has now given way for the new court house. On the right was Mr. James Reaves residence on the corner. All the rest of the block was the home place of CoL Frank Hardeman. This is one of the very few houses in Athens occupied today by the family whose
16

home it was at the time of our stroll. The stroller remembers Col. Hardeman, tall, erect, a strikingly distinguished looking gentleman. His daughter, Mrs. J. W. Brumby, lives in the house where she became a bride. Crossing Jackson street, the vacant lot of the Pope residence extended on the left to the small house on the corner of College avenue, where Mr. Ferdy Adams onee lived.
There was no house fronting Hancock on the right, between Jackson and College avenue. The John Thomas house is still standing. It is about the middle of the block and faces Jackson street. At the time of our stroll Dr. J. M. Lumpkin lived there.
Crossing College avenue, beyond the Dougherty lot on our left was the house of Mr. S. J. Mays, now the home of Mrs. S. G. Gerdine. Dr. Gerdine is still too vivid a memory to need comment here. The stroller never had a truer friend. He was a physician whom the family valued as much for his sympathy as for his skill.
On the right, passing the Morrisons (afterword Chas. Sterns home) we come to the Presbyterian church. Dr. Burkhead was the pastor, and the membership then as now included many of the most prominent people of Athens. Next to the history of the University, the history of the Presbyterian church comes nearest to being a history of Athens. The stroller attended the lectures to a Bible Class of students by that accomplished scholar and high-minded gentleman, Prof. William H. Waddell. It is an even guess which was the greater attraction, the lectures or the many lovely Presbyterian girls. Next to the church the home of Mr. A. M. Scudder is today but little changed in ap pearance from its early seeming.*
Scudders School for Boys was for many years one of the institutions of Athens. Even today many elderly men in the community have feeling recollections of his ministrations. In those good days the teacher made an impression of his own personality on the pupil. Whether moral suasion or the other kind really "suades," the stroller leaves a discerning public to decide.
On the block between Lumpkin and Hull we find on our left the Methodist church, much changed and enlarged since that day. That gallant soldier and strong man,. Gen. Clement A.
17

Evans, was pastor. It was an inspiration to any nuur to hear him.
M. Myera house was on the Hull street corner. It has been moved back from the street and improved.
On the corner of Lumpkin and Hancock avenue stands the old Hancock Tavern. It looks today much as it did when the stroller first saw it, barring the need of repairs. The widow of Capt. Vincent lived there. From this house Capt. Vincent went to Virginia in command of the Clarke Rifles. He had been the senior officer in command of the companies from this district which moved the Cherokee TndianB- The concentration camp was at Boss Landing, now Chattanooga, Orders from Gen. Winfield Scott, reports, and other interesting documents of that episode are in the possession of his son, Mr. T. P. Vincent. Before Capt. Vincent owned the place, it was the Hancock Tavern on the stage road from Charleston, Augusta and west ward to the Mississippi. The front on Hancock avenue was added after the tavern days. The tavern fronted the side yard of the Scudder house. In the second story room on the north east corner W. T. Thompson wrote the part of Major Jones Courtship which describes the "fantastics" at the University commencement.
Mr. Thomas Hancock, the grandfather of Miss Sarah Frierson, so long the University librarian, kept the tavern. He dona ted the land for the Methodist church. He took particular interest in a blue-eyed student boarder and used to say, "Some day yon will President of the United States." That boy was Benjamin H. HilL
About the middle of the block was a long two-story house, which sat side-wise to the street and near the side-walk. The Baynon house was on the Hull street corner. Dr. King lived there after the time of our stroll.
On the block between Hull and Pnlaski, on the corner on the left, was a grocery store. Then a rambling two-story building and then Mrs. Bradfords house. This house is now the Beeae home. Here recently died Mrs. Caroline Beese, one of the oldest citizens of Athens.
On the corner of Hancock and Hull on the right was an old
shop. In the tip-stairs of this shop was the meeting place of the
18

Union League. The stroller well remembers the deep tones of the horn which called the members to the meeting. The natural ly ominous nature of the sound was much enhanced by the fact that at that time the Kn Elnz were still engaged in saving the country.
The next house was the home of Miss Maty Harden. The house has been changed but is still standing. The article ap pearing some years ago in a prominent magazine, "John How ard Paynes Southern Sweetheart," was from the pen of one of Athens most talented daughters, Miss Laura Speer. It was said that Miss Harden had the original of "Home, Sweet Home" presented by the author and written for her when he was a guest in her fathers house. The manuscript has never come to light. One of the best likenesses the stroller ever saw was a pencil sketch of Miss Harden on the fly leaf of a prayer book. It is said the artist refused to sell it for publication in a north ern periodical.
Mr. Jonathan Hamptons house and lot occupied the rest of the block on that side of Die street.
Coming to Pulaski street we have Col. Stevens Thomas* home on the corner of Pulaski and Hancock. The place is occupied by the Y. W. C. A. building. The house! has been turned to face Haneoek. The stroller here makes a short side-step to the home of Col. William Letcher Mitehell on Hancock. The family have not fired there for many yean, and the place is much dilapidated. Col. Mitehell held many responsible posts in church and state. He was professor for many years in the University Law School. Under him the stroller studied law and graduated. "Georgia Land and People" is the production of his daughter, one of the most talented and patriotic women of the state.
Coming back to Pnlaski we have the Blanton Hill house on oar left, then the home of Mr. Hills son-in-law, Mr. William G. Noble. This house has peculiar interest for the stroller. Mrs. Noble, when left a widow, took boarders, and it was to this house the stroller brought his bride. The house is unchanged except that it is in far better repair. There were no other houses on either side of the block.
Beaching Prince avenue, the stroller cannot pass without a word the home of Dr. J. C. Orr, one of the oldest unchanged
19

houses in Athens. It was the old Towns home. Genial, lovable, high-minded Dr. Orr, the stroller has a warm spot in his heart for him.
Turning westward and np Prince avenue, on our left was the home of Dr. H. N. Harris, afterward the home of Mr. Thomas Fleming. Crossing Meigs street we find HemphilTa shop, which long stood a landmark. The Hemphill house next to it is one of the oldest houses in Athens. Here was born W. H. Hemphill, long part owner and business manager of the Atlanta Constitu tion, one time Mayor of Atlanta. Mrs. Hemphill has lived con tinuously in one house for a longer time than any other person in Athens. May she for many good years to come continue in the old Hemphill house.
On our right at the corner of Polaski and Prince, we find today the Roman Catholic chapeL It was in that building the stroller started to work. Mr. W. W. Lumpkin engaged the stroller, then a youth of eighteen years, as an assistant in his school for .boys. Mr. Lumpkin was gifted as a teacher and manager of boys. His patience and kindness is a bright spot in the strollers memory. This building had been the law office of Thomas B. B. Cobb. Here was organized the Lumpkin Law School, now the Law Department of the University, and here the first sessions were held. Joseph Henry Lumpkin, Georgias first Chief Justice, T. B. B. Cobb, his son-in-law, and Mr. Wil liam Hope Hull, were the professors. Mr. Hull alone of the three was alive when the stroller came to Athens. When the stroller, armed with his license, was setting out to begin the practice, he had the good fortune to have a talk with Mr. Hull, and even at this distant day his wise words are cherished. Of Judge Lumpkin the records of our Supreme Court containing his opinions are more eloquent of his ability and personality than anything the stroller can say. Some years ago the stroller received a letter from some publishers, who were compiling a book of biographs of two men in each state who had left the deepest impress on the laws of the state. The stroller was asked to name the men for Georgia. He replied "T. B. B. Cobb." Another letter came, asking the name of the other man. He promptly replied, "T. B. B. Cobb."
When first established, the Supreme Court was ambulatory,
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and some of the earliest sessions of that august tribunal were held in what is now the Roman Catholic chapel. The Lucy Cobb Institute was organized in this building. All the highest forces in human society sanctify that spot, law, education, religion.
The rest of the block up to Barber street was occupied by the homes of T. B. B. Cobb, and Joseph H. Lumpkin. The Cobb house still stands as of yore, much improved but unchanged. The Lumpkin house occupied a commanding position on the hill with extensive grounds. It has been moved down to the street and is now the home of W. L. Childs.
The Court House Square, it is not square, more oblong, was vacant. The Stevens house had been burnt and the ruins stood on the site of the Court House. It must have been a handsome place.
Turning up Hill street, all the land from the Pope street corner to Hon. Henry S. Wests house was owned by Mrs. Baxter. On her will in the Ordinarys office are U. 8. revenue stamps to the amount of ($215.00) two hundred and fifteen dollars, pretty - strong evidence of her wealth, and a rather grewsome reminder of the days when the tax-gatherer took what was left from the wrecks of war. Mrs. Baxters daughter, Mrs. Edgeworth Bird, lived on Mount Yernon Place, Baltimore, until her death within the last few years. Few women in Georgia were more widely known and beloved.
The whole block between Pope and Church was the Baxter home place, and was occupied by the Home School for young ladies. The house is still standing but now faces Meigs street. Formerly it faced Hill, and the gardens and grounds extended to that street. The first party the stroller attended in Athens was a dance at the close of the session given at the Home School. His ignorance of the graceful art and his first suit of store clothes made the experience one of mixed pleasure and misery. Madame Sophie Sosnowski, the principal of the Home School, was the daughter of Dr. Wentz, Court Physician of the Duchy of Baden. Added to unusual natural artistic and musical gifts, she had the most finished education the times .afforded. But far above talents and accomplishments, her lofty character, pure ideals, abhorrence of the insincere and the false, made her a person whose impress upon young people was above the price of rubies.
11

She was married in the Cathedral at Strasburg to Joseph Sosnowski. Strasbnrg Cathedral then boasted the loftiest spire in Europe. So airy and so graceful, Bonaparte said it was "a mesh of Mechlin lace thrown against the shy." When Poland was partitioned, the Sosnowskis became exiles, Madame, left a widow with small children, came South, took charge of the Church School at Montpelier at Bishop Elliotts request. She afterward taught in Charleston, and had a school in Columbia when Sherman burned the town. Her account of that event is well worth reading. She came to Athens as principal of the Lucy Cobb Institute, and afterward established the Home School. The stroller has often regretted that she never wrote her biogra phy. The stroller never heard her sing until she was an old lady, but the full bell-like tones of her voice sound again for him as he writes.
The block between Pope and Church on the right had no house facing Hill except I. M. Kenneys, where Dr. Slaughters house now is. The Kenney house was moved in the last few years. The lot on the left after crossing Church street was vacant for many years. There was a one-story house on the Harris street corner, since rebuilt by Judge West. Hon. Alex. S. Erwin lived there for awhile. On the right the block between Church and Harris was vacant for more than half the distance. On the upper end was a small wooden building with large trees in rear. To this house Mr. Lumpkin moved his school, and after that gentleman was elected professor in the University, the stroller there continued the severe and thankless work of in structing youth. Some of those youth have done well in the world in spite of that instruction or the lack of it. For the successes the stroller claims no credit, for the failures h dis claims any responsibility.
The block between Harris and Milledge was the Howcll Cobb residence. The house, now moved down to the corner, sat near the middle of the block. The beautiful green lawn, graceful statues, and spacious grounds made one of the handsomest homes in Athens. Mrs. Cobb was a friend to all her boys friends, and nothing is more pleasant than the recollection of the hospitality of that home. And Mrs. Cobb herself, to natural charm was added all the grace that association with the best and most re-
*3

fined gives. Ah, well, the civilization which produced women of that kind has passed away. Of Howell Gohb, nothing here said can add to his fame. He was a leader among men, Governor of his State, Speaker of the U. S. House of Representatives, Member of the Cabinet, General in the Confedrate Army. He died before the stroller came to Athens.
The first wedding according to the Episcopal ceremony the stroller ever witnessed was in the Cobb house, when Bishop Beckwith united in marriage Hon. Alex. S. Erwin and Miss Marianne Lamar Cobb.
The right side of the block opposite the Cobb house had no houses facing Hill. Crossing Milledge we have Dr. H. R. J. Longs home on our left. The house is now owned by Hon. John J. Striekland and has been turned to face Milledge. The Athens Guards welcomed Bill Long and his bridge to Athens, and fired a salute. The stroller was on the firing line. / Mr. James Carlton lived in the house of Mrs. Fred Morton. The first time the stroller spent a night away from home was in that house, with H. N. Taylor. Mrs. Carlton, his mother, was one of the most attractive and beautiful of the stroller* ac quaintances^ Mr. John A. Cobb lived where Mrs. Erwins house now is. He had his summer home there, his business, however, was on his estate in Sumter county. Dr. Lawrences was the only other house on the block. From that point OB there was only one house, until we reach Cobb street. That was on the corner and the stroller thinks it belonged to Miss Colt, the aunt of Mrs. R. M. Smith.
So our stroll ends at the gate of the home of Mr. Ferdinand Phiniay. The princely hospitality of that house was often enjoyed by the stroller and ether friends of the only daughter of the house. Here she became the bride of one of Georgias most justly honored sons, Dr. A. W, Calhoon. The Phinizy estate is now Lynwood Park.

STROLL V.
UP PRINCE AVENUE.
Beginning our stroll in front of the court house, we have on our right the summer home of Mr. John W. Nevitt. The house has been recently torn away and stood near where Mrs. Quillians house is. Mr. Nevitt retired from business in Savannah and made his home in Athens for a number of years. The stroller has never known a man whose regard he valued more highly. Dignified, somewhat reserved, he did not talk much, but when he did talk, he said something worth hearing. No house in Athens had happier associations for the stroller than the Nevitt house. The daughters of that house are the friends of his youth.
The next house was that of Mr. John Thomas and his brother, Mr. Bobert Thomas. The house still stands at the head of Pope street in rear of Emmanuel church. It was built by Howell Cobb, father of Hon. Andrew J. Cobb. At the time of our stroll, there was a drive from the house on Prince avenue lined with splendid trees, the house and grounds were in perfect order, and it was the ideal of an elegant Southern home. Mr. Bobert Thomas was a bachelor. He died suddenly at Sulphur Springs. The stroller was at the springs at the time.
Mr. John Thomas wife was a McKinley, one of the loveliest members of a family of more handsome men and beautiful women than any other in the State. The next house was the Benjamin H. Hill residence. The first political speaking the stroller ever heard was in the campaign of Mr. Hill for the forty-fourth Congress. He ran independent. The Gainesville convention was deadlocked, and the part that kept together "recommended" Hon. J. B. Estes. The young orators of the -day were giving us the wire edge of their enthusiasm, Emory iSpeer, T. W. Bucker, A. L. Mitchell convinced the stroller that tttnless Mr. Hill was elected, the whole social fabric would blow up at the bottom and cave in at the top. Well, he was elected, and Athens can claim the credit of drawing from his retirement & son of Georgia, of whom she is as justly proud as of any she ever bore, bar none. His voice stirred the heart like the sound
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of a trumpet, his logic was irresistible, his language as pure as it was powerful.
There is an incident connected with Mr. Hills argument before the Supreme Court in the case of Morris vs. Northeastern B. R. Co. which the stroller could relate, bat will not. However, the arguments were unanswerable. The stroller gained the case at mn prius, and lost it above. The first gain was a loss and the final loss was the gain. All the gain, by the way, the stroller got. It involved six hundred thousand dollars. See 59 Georgia Reports, 364. Anyhow, there was a torch-light procession, and transparencies. A serenade with a sheet-iron band was tendered Mr. A. K. Childs, president of the road. That gentleman in vited the directors and other notables in, and opened champagne. The stroller can tell some incidents about that episode.
The house on the corner of Prince and what is now Grady avenue was the home of R. H. Lampkin. Grady avenue was not open them. Coming back to our starting point and taking the left side of the street, Mr. Hoover had a store on the triangle where the fire station is. His house stood on the corner of Pope and Hancock. There was a store opposite the Ben TTill house, and another on the triangle where Cobb street makes off. Mrs. Shusters house was next on that side. The stroller does not recall any other house on that side until we come to the big house on the corner of Milledge and Prince. This house was built by Mr. Stovall of Augusta, but at the time of our stroll it was the home of Col. R. S. Taylor. He was postmaster at that time. There were several daughters. They were popular and accomplished. The portrait of Henry W. Grady in the University Library was painted by Mrs. Susan Taylor Hill, a daughter of Col. R. S. Taylor. The family afterwards occupied the T. R. R. Cobb house.
Coming back to Grady avenue, we find on the right side of Prince the house now owned by Mrs. L. D. DuBose. It was then owned by the Gradys, but the stroller does not recall whether Mrs. Grady was living there. Mr. W. S. Grady bought the place from Richard D. B. Taylor, and it was the boyhood home of Henry W. Grady. The house was built by General Robert Taylor, who was one of the wealthiest men in the state. His will, in the Ordinarys office, is a curiosity. The stroller had a
86

printed copy, it was a large pamphlet. The stroller was told that the night Gen. Taylors house was finished, it burned to the ground. Long afterward the builder confessed that he burnt it, to get the contract to rebuild. There was a house in the deep valley next the Taylor house, which was built for a club house. At the time of our stroll a college secret society occupied it.
The next house was Col. John Billups, and he was living there at the time of our stroll. He was a Trustee of the Uni versity, and died while the stroller was in college. The recol lection of the march of the members of the Demosthenian and Phi Kappa Societies to that, then distant part of the town is still vivid. Mr. J. R. Crane bought the house. It burned and Mrs. Cranes present house was built on the site. Col John Billups was captain of the Thunderbolts, and L. Schevenel was next in command. Once when Col. Billups was away at his plantation, a call was made for troops to go to the front, and Mr. Schevenel ordered the Thunderbolts to march. The con sternation produced cannot be imagined unless we remember that the Thunderbolts were organized for home defense only. Run ners were sent post haste, and Col. Billups arrived in the nick of time, took command and countermanded the order, and peace was restored. Gen. Howell Cobb, when commander of this mili tary district sent Capt. Pope Barrow, a member of his staff, to Athens to inspect the Thunderbolts. They promptly declined to be inspected. Dr. Hull sent word that Pope Barrow could inspect him any morning between ten and twelve oclock on his front porch. The Thunderbolts were not insubordinate, they merely stood on their rights under the Constitutions of Georgia, and of the Confederate States.
The stroller does not recall any house on the left side of Prince between Mflledge and the Lamar house, except Aunt Laura Billups. Any one who has not heard of her, has never heard of Athens. One who has not eaten her cakes dont know how a cake ought to taste. For many a longer year no bridal table was complete without Aunt Lauras cake. She has filled orders from Paris to Watkinsville. She usually fails to recog nise the stroller, and lays it on failing sight. She is one of the people who knows Mrs. Stroller only as the strollers wife, and

the implied relative importance is gratifying. When the stroller was struggling with the struction of youth, she furnished his meals. He wishes he had one of them now. The two evidences of civilization are good roads and good cooks. We once had the latter without the former, but ah! me, now that we have roads the cooks have left, along with the conditions that produced them.
There was no street where Lyndon avenue now is. The Leonidas Franklin house and lot occupied large space. There were grand magnolias, and the house was artistic in appearance. Mrs. Franklin and Miss Mary lived there. The stroller went with a note to Miss Mary from his father asking her to take him as a pupil in drawing. Many a time has he regretted her refusal. She let him see her work, pictures finished and unfinished. She is one of the rarely gifted daughters of Athens. She makes her home in Paris. . The Crawford W. Long house came next. Mr. Shackelford has owned the place until recently. Mr. Bryan has moved the house to make way for his new one. Crawford Longs discovery of the use of sulphurous ether as an anaesthetic has carried the name of Athens into every civilized country. Georgia is entitled to two statues in the Capitol at Washington, and the legislature decided that Crawford Longs statue should be one of them. The decision is all right but the statue has not been erected. / The next house was the MitcheU place, now the Upson horn.. The stroller thinks that Capt. l&ie& Mitchell and his sisters lived there. The strollers military career as a member of the Athens Guards was under Capt. Mitchell.
The house of Mr. E. K. Lumpkin was then the home of Mrs. Thomson Lamar. Shortly after the time of our stroll she moved back to Monticello, Fla. The stroller reckons among his close college friends, William Bailley Lamar, so long Attorney-General of Florida, and one time Congressman from that State. The stroller was recently reminded of the fight of time by seeing a daughter of Mrs. Lamars youngest son, Jeff. He was a boy at the time of our stroll. The first money the stroller made after he was admitted to the bar was for copying the record in the liti gation over the Lamar house.
The house was built by Robert G. T. Taylor, son of Gen.Robert Taylor. It was bought by Richard S. Taylor, who sold it to
27

General Bailley of Florida. The last named was the father of Mrs. Lamar, and the house was her summer home.
On the next block was a house still standing, next to Mr. . ,B. Hodgsons, then occupied by Mr. Nat. Barnard. Mrs. Barnard was a daughter of Judge Dougherty, and a great belle in her youth. The stroller never saw her.
A few days ago the stroller and some five hundred others were the partakers of the lavish hospitality of Mr. Hodgsons home. He recalled that the first time he entered the old Hodgson home was as a guest at the reception given when Mr. Robert Hodgson, and Mr. E. B. Hodgson brought their brides home from Baltimore. He felt tempted to tell his gracious hostess that she looked as handsome as a grandmother as she did as a bride. But the wedding bells were ringing, and she had no time for compliments however sincere.
Beyond the Barnard house and the Mitchell house there was no house until we reach the High School. We called it the Bock College. The walls are built of crushed stone and cement. The material was put into boxing, in situ, and allowed to harden. This construction was without re-inforcement and is a pretty good proof of the durability of stone and cement construction. The University owned the building and land. It was a prepar atory school. That veteran instructor, Mr. Benjamin T. Hunter was the principal, and there were more than a hundred pupils. After the State aid for the education of Confederate soldiers ceased, the number diminished and the University discontinued the school. Mr. Hunter conducted a successful private school for many years. The Bock College was then used for a students boarding house. The stroller has spent many happy hours there, with two of his nearest friends, John Temple Graves, and Alonzo C. Riley. All students of that time recall the pathetic tragedy of Marion Oates being accidentally shot with an unloaded(f) pistol.
Prince avenue here becomes the Jefferson Road, and was the northern boundary of the town. No cross street went beyond it from Barber street to the High School. The avenue was named for Mr. Oliver Prince, who one time owned a number of acres of land about where Mr. E. B. Hodgsons house is, in fact, he had a farm and Prince avenue was the road to it from
28

town. He was the author of Princes Digest of the Laws of Georgia.
The stroller acknowledges with pleasure information and cor* rections received. The picture in the University chapel was painted by Mr. Cook for a wealthy gentleman in Alabama, Mr. Pratt, and by him was presented to the University on account of his friendship for Dr. Andrew A. Lipscomb, the chancellor at that time. The strollers information as to the donor was incorrect. The gentleman who was charge at St. Cloud, after W. H. Qrawford retired, was Dr. Henry Jackson and not Gen. H. B. Jackson as stated in our stroll. Dr. Henry Jackson was professor of physics in the University and while in Paris, he had valuable apparatus made especially for the University. Upon his return from abroad he resumed his duties in the
University. When the.market in the old town hall was discontinued, the
name of the street was changed from Market to Washington at the suggestion of Dr. Eustace W. Speer. This gentleman was for many years an honored citizen of Athens, was professor in the University, and at one time filled the pulpit of the First Methodist church. His rare gifts gave him rank among the fore most orators of his time.
The mention of the name of the father of his country reminds the stroller of a fact not generally known. Wilkes county was settled by Virginians before the Revolutionary war, who thought the red lands adapted to wheat. George Washington had gained considerable repute in this native state. Admirers of the future president named the county town for him. The first place in the world to be called Washington for G. W. The Confederate Cabinet held its last session in Washington.

STROLL VI.
THROUGH COBBHAM.
Cobbham is not accurately defined as to boundaries. It is, roughly speaking, all of the town west of Pulaaki street. In oar previous strolls we have visited a great part of this teritory. We start up Meigs street where it leaves Prince avenue and come to the Camak house on our left. The place has not been changed. The large house sits on the commanding hill, surrounded by grounds so ample as to make it a country house in the midst of the town. Dr. James Camak took an interest in the stroller, gave him considerable business, and the stroller never had deal ings with one who was more satisfactory or liberal. The stroller was for many years secretary of the Vestry of Emmanuel Pariah. Dr. Camak had been Secretary and Treasurer. Finding on the old minute book a note that Secretary reported that the debt on the church had been paid, the stroller asked Mr. R. L. Bloomfield about it. He said Dr. Camak paid the balance of the build ing debt out of his own pocket. Mr. Bloomfield said, in the early struggle for existence, the parish must have dissolved but for the liberal aid of Dr. Camak. Always a man of means, he made no parade of his benevolences. The stroller mentions here a curious incident. Seabrook, Whaley and Baynon built a fort on Edisto Island in the War of 1812. The government voted them bounty lands. As an act of friendship for Dr. Camak, Baynon conveyed his interest to Emmanuel Parish. The lands were located in Iowa. They have long passed out of the hands of the church, and are now very valuable.
The Court House Square was vacant. The left aide of the street between Findley and Pope had one or two small houses on it. The Meigs street academy was about where the school now is, but was not open. The Baxter properties extended from Pope to Harris, the part between Church and Harris being vacant. The left of the street between Church and Harris was vacant, being the side and back of lots, where houses faced other streets. Mr. Peter Weils lot was near Meigs street school but faced Hancock. Mr. Weil was one of three shoemakers, Hand-
30

rap, Bony, Well, then in Athens, who were artiste. There is no such handwork done now outside the large cities, even if done anywhere. Mr. B. H. Hill asked Mr. Weil what business one of the sons intended to follow. Mr. Weil said he wished to have him a shoemaker, but he did not have the capacity, so he was going to make a lawyer of him. The side of the Stovall lot and the back of the Cobb lot occupied the space between Harris and Milledge. Anyone who wishes to realize how much building has been done in Athens in late years should stroll through this quarter today. Persons going up town left Hill street at the corner of Church, crossed the open square where Mrs. Hulls and Dr. Hollidays houses are, went through the woods and struck Meigs street at the corner of Harris and went out Meigs to Milledge. The vacant square was the playground of the strollers school boys. Because it was next the Home School, the students called it "Madams Green." It figured conspic uously in the evidence when the negroes Johnson and Echols were tried for killing a student, Walter Bountree, in front of the court house. In that wood an ambush was laid in which men now prominent in the state participated. That was before the stroller came to Athens, and his knowledge is founded on hearsay.
Starting up Cobb street where it leaves Prince, the stroller does not recall who lived in the house now owned by Mr. J. A. Fowler. It was built by James J. Taylor, a son of General Robert Taylor. The whole block between Harris and Milledge was occupied, by the John B. Cobb house. It faced Harris street. The rear of the house was very near Milledge. There was a large lawn in front. Mr. E. B. Hodgson moved the house down near Harris when he lived there. The house was vacant and reputed to be haunted. Once when there was a dance there, the gas suddenly went out, and while it was being regulated, all sat around the fires and some one told the story that a wed ding was celebrated there during the war; in the midst of the ceremony the gas went out. The bridegroom was killed in battle shortly afterward, and the house was haunted ever since. The characters in the story were the step-daughter of Mr. John B. Cobb, Miss Mary Lamar, and the man she married, Jefferson Lamar. The fact that the groom was killed in battle empha-
31

sued the omen. He was a brother of Hon. L. Q. C. Lamar and of Thompson B. Lamar. The latter was also killed in battle. Mrs. Lamar married B. M. Pattenon, of Macon, and she was a prominent delegate to the recent convention of the Daughters of the Confederacy held here. The house was built by Mr. Henry Hull, and by him sold to John B. Cobb, a brother of
Generals Howell and Thomas B. B. Cobb. On the right side of the street no house fronted on Cobb be
tween Harris and Milledge. Crossing Milledge the lot on the left was vacant. On the right was the house now owned by Dick Harris. He has four old French lithographs of the Seasons which the stroller thinks are specimens of the earliest lithograph work. They were brought from Paris by Bernardo Arze, and hung for many years in George Davis barber shop. The trying ordeal of hair cutting is inextricably associated with pictures of the Four Seasons. The stroller is getting the data to tell about
Bernardo. The next house we recall is the B. L. Moss home. Then as
now it occupied the whole block. Mr. Moss recent death makes
fresh in the minds of Athenians the prominent part he played in the history of the town. He was on the staff of Gen. Howell Cobb during the war, was a director and promoter of the North eastern Railroad, an officer of the First Methodist church. The golden wedding some years ago was a notable event. The stroller has lived in Athens since he was a child, but it was not in Athens that he became acquainted with the Moss family. While spending a holiday at Tallulah Falls, he was in the same cottage with Mr. and Mrs. Moss. He knows few people so gentle and refined as
Mm. Mow. The next house we reach is that of Mr. Cicero Chandler on
the right of the street, and fronting the Phinizy place. The stroller never knew Mr. Chandler. When he was in the Bailroad Law Department he knew Charley Chandler well. One of the boys went to the strollers school. Mrs. J. S. Kings house was then owned and occupied by Major Lamar Cobb. The house was built by Mr. James A. Sledge when he was editor of the Banner. The first time the stroller entered the house was at a reception given on the occasion of the wedding of Judge Erwin and Miss Cobb. During the days of strenuosity in starting the
32

practice, Maj. Cobb was uniformly kind and helpful to the stroller. Those are times when a kind word or deed makes an ineffaceable impression. He told the stroller of a ludicrous cir cumstance, which has been told many times since. The Con federate Commandant sent to Dr. Orrs house an order for his blacksmith tools. Mrs. Orr refused to give them up. An order was issued to shoot Mrs. Orr. When Gen. Cobb, in Macon, got the report, he was shocked and sent Maj. Cobb of his staff post haste to Athens. At Union Point a courier was met with a dispatch, saying he was glad to report to the commanding gen eral that the "needcessity" of the case did not require the shoot ing of Mrs. Orr. As the stroller recalls the accent of tenderness in his voice whenever Dr. Orr spoke of "Lizzie," he feels sure that any attempt to carry into effect that order would have been unhealthy for someone.
The house of Mrs. Asbury H. Hodgson was built by Dr. Lipscomb shortly after the time of our stroll, and he lived there until his resignation as Chancellor and removal to Yanderbilt Unir versity. Upon his return to Athens, he built Wee Willie Cottage, (named for his friend, Capt. W. W. Thomas) on corner of Milledge and Broad.
The triangle on the right side of the street was vacant. The last house on Cobb street was owned by CoL David C. Barrow, father of Chancellor Barrow. It is now the home of Maj. John E. Talmadge. The house was burned and the present house was built by Maj. Talmadge. The man who started life in the South soon after the war and achieved success must have elements of character unusual, to say the least. This, Maj. Talmadge has done, and he is today the head of one of the large wholesale houses of the State and a highly esteemed citizen of Athens.
At the time of our stroll the house was occupied by Mr. Howell Cobb, of the firm of L. & H. Cobb, afterward Judge of the City Court from its establishment until his death. He was a trustee of the University, Professor of Law, and an officer of the Pres byterian church. When the stroller came to Athens, he knew but few people by name or by sight. One day he was sitting in the Presbyterian church on the east side near the door; a man and a woman came in and occupied one of the short pews across the aisle. Boy-like he was not easily impressed by appearances,
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bat the thought came then that he had never Ken a handsomer couple. Many yean have come and gone, and his thought is still the same. They were Mr. and Mrs. Howell Cobb. The stroller did not know Judge Cobb until he was studying law, although two of his sons attended the strollers school. For eight years the stroller was the Solicitor of the City Court over which Judge Cobb presided! for eight more years they were colleagues in the Law School. He was a friend who was a friend. His clearness of insight, his breadth of vision were phenomenal. He thought in the large, he loved much. The daily sight of the fine picture his class hung on the wall of his lecture room is not needed to keep him near in thought. Each day craves his wise counsel, his loving sympathy.
Beaching Prince avenue we are reminded of one who frequent ly traveled it from his home in Jackson county, John Jacobus Ftonrnoy. The stroller remembers him, with long white hair and beard, a striking figure. He wrote letters to the college classes. He wrote a book on Trigamy, which is mentioned by Oliver Wendell Holmes in the Autocrat of the Breakfast Table. He was widely read, and of scholarly turn, but his mind had been unsettled by a lightning stroke. His library contained many rare books. It is a pity it was dissipated at public sale.
At the time of our stroll he was not a resident of Athens; He had lived on Broad street ia a house which stood opposite when Miles Johnsons dye shop is. He was a frequent visitor and a imnflfor figure on the streets.
Out beyond the Bock College on the MitehelTs Bridge road is the Worm place. Dr. Wurm was a native of Tyrol, and had been teacher of music at the Lucy Cobb Institute. His sons are accomplished musicians, and three of them are members of Worms orchestra of Atlanta.
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STROLL VII.
OUT MILLEDGE AVENUE.
Beginning our stroll at the intersection of Hill and Milledge, we have the Howell Cobb place on our left and the Jones Long place on our right. Both houses faced Hill and the side lota were on Milledge. Dr. Longs stable, in the corner where W. P. Briggs house is, burned one night shortly after the stroller eame to Athens. The stroller will not tell the way-worn and gray headed story of the negro who fell into the well and why he did it. Ask any one who has lived in Athens the last twenty years and"yeu can get the story.
The St Marys Hospital block was the home of Mrs. Paulina Harris and her daughters, Mrs. Wallace and Miss Belle. The latter is now Mrs. Bernard Franklin of Augusta. Mrs. Harris sold the place to Mr. Boiling Stovall, and built the house on Hill street now owned by Mrs. "W. B. Burnett. The stroller knew the place best as the house of the Stovalls. Hon. Pleasant A. Stovall is an old college friend. All three of the daughters of the house are living in Athens, Mrs. B. T. DnBose, Mrs. R W. Tarnkin, and^MrjtJBiJlllBS^hJnjz^ The Hnnnicutt house was unoccupied when the stroller first knew it. Dr. Hunnicntt and his family have lived there continuously since a short time after our strolL
The block opposite the Lucy Cobb Institute was vacant. Mr. Ferdinand Phinizy built the three houses there. Mr. J. H. Fleming bought the one in the middle of the block. MrBjltngs Phinizy bought the one on the corner of Hancock and Milledge TMr. W. B. Thomas bought what k now the Villa. The letter two wre cottages and have been practically built over. The Lucy Cobb Institute consisted of the main building and the out buildings in the rear. The Seney-Stovall chapel was built by ubscriptiona from friends of the whool and a gift from Mr. George I. Seney. He became interested in the matter from a letter written to him by a school girl at the Institute, Miss Nellk G. Stovall, and hence the name of the ehapeL There used to be some terra cotta deer and a dog which they said was terra
35
GENERAL LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF GEORGIA ATHENS. GEORGIA

cotta. But the stroller thinks that dog was made of solid cast iron. No terra cotta could possibly weigh as heavy as that dog. Looking back over the years and being in a calm and not ex aggerative state of mind, the strollers deliberate judgment now is, that the minimum weight of that dog was ten thousand pounds. Herodotus always teases our curiosity by saying it is not lawful to tell some things, which had been revealed, in the initiation into the mysteries. So, further revelation is here for bidden. The commencement exercises were held in the bowling alley. The stroller has had many happy times at the Institute, and likewise wore JrinuiAlf shorter promenading on the long gallery. The stroller states positively that goat-painting was instituted after his college days.
On the block between Reese and Broad on the left* were two small houses. One was moved or torn away when Mrs. M. L. Smith built the Lambert house. The other is yet to be seen in rear of the Patman house. The stroller does not recall who lived in the first. After the time of our stroll Maj. Thomas A. Burke lived there. Mr. Mills, an artist, lived in the other home. When the stroller went on a walking trip to the mountains, the parly visited Capt. Nichols house in Nacoochee Valley, and saw there some lovely paintings of the valley scenery by Mr. Mills. The stroller is no judge of pictures, but he knows those were good.
On the right side of the street, Mr. A. E. Griffiths house had been recently built. It was then unoccupied, and we used to have dances there. The Bneker house, now Mr. J. M. Hodgsons, then as now occupied the rest of the block. The stroller was proud to call Mrs. Rucker his friend, a lovely and attractive lady of the Old South. The memory is still fragrant of the elegant hospitality of Capt. J. H. Bneker in his mothers home.
The block between Broad and Dearing on the left ride was vacant, the southern half being an oak wood. Dr. Hugh. N. Harris after the time of our stroll built the house now owned and occupied by Prof. E. C. Branson. None of the family lire here now except Mr. B. Yaneey Harris. Anyone who was hon ored with the friendship of Mrs. Harris knew that he had a friend whose loyalty was as unshakable as the mountains.
The block on the right side of the street between Broad and Dearing was the Hamilton home place. The house is owned
3

and occupied by Mr. E. B. Hodgson, Jr. The removal of the extensive outbuildings in the rear has added to the handsome appearance of a handsome place. The house sits in a park of grand oaks. The house, grounds and all the appointments of the Hamilton place exemplified ample, substantial, unostenta tious elegance. The iron piazza on the front of the house is unique in this part of the country. The wide light saracenic arches, the deep, graceful arabesque frieze relieve the massiveness of the whole building. This piazza came from Philadelphia on the last train to come South before traffic was closed by the War between the States. When the stroller was going it alone, and trying to make a living out of the law, the Hamilton home was as nearly home to him as any he had. Of the kindness of Dr. and Mrs. Hamilton and the friendships of the members of the family, well! there are some things too sacred to be written for public reading. The stroller was privileged to share the marriage joys, and the funeral sorrows of that house and truly an he say,
"I love them for the living, The generous, kind and gay, And for the dead who sleep."
Dr. James S. Hamilton, the only son, administered his fathers estate, and made a bond of two million dollars. On the left of the street the Benjamin C. Yaney home occupied the block. The house stood in the midst of a grove of oaks, faced Dearing street, and was one of the most imposing houses in Athens. It has been moved to the corner of Dearing and is owned by Mr. J. A. Darwin. The house was built by Mr. Albin P. Dearing for his mother. It was afterward owned successively by Maj. Marcellns Hammond, of Beech Island, Col. Yancey, and Mr. A. L. HulL Col. Yancey was the ideal of the South Carolina gentleman of the days before the war, handsome, high-spirited, intellectual. At the time of our stroll the only daughter was a belle, and beauty. She married Bowdre Phinizy. Of all the family the stroller knows her best. She has been uniformly gracious- and friendly to him. The stroller would like to tell some of the incidents of the race for the legislature between CoL Yancey and Col. J. H. Hnggins, he was in the thick of it.
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Bat we mast not be garrulous, people will begin to think us senile. The block on the right of the street between Dearing and "Wad-
dell was the home place of Mrs. Hamilton,, mother of Dr. James S. Hamilton. The stroller never saw her. She lived there for several years after the time of our stroll. The house is now Mrs. Phinizys residence. Both the Hamilton places had much land, with ample gardens, orchards, fields. After Mrs. Hamil tons death, the house was rented and occupied by Dr. and Mrs. H. G. White. Now if the stroller were to stop to tell the smallest part of all the pleasure and innocent fun he has seen in that house, he dbuld indeed be accused of garrulity. One of the most beautiful traits of human nature is to take pleasure in sharing ones pleasures with others. Applying this test, surely these two people take high rank. Since they have made thenhome in Athens, they hare shed brightness into many a dull, gray life. None can say that Dr. and Mrs. White take their pleasures selfishly.
Beyond Waddell street on the left of Milledge, there was but one other house until we were out in the country, and that was the house of Mr. Alfred L. Dearing, now owned by Mr. J. J. Wilkins. The sons and daughters of that house are the friends of the strollers youth. There may have been a more attractive family hi Athens, but the stroller didnt then and doesnt now know them. The sight of the Dearing house awakens a desire to visit the Bancroft neighborhood, but that pleasure must be deferred. The mention of those two names, Bancroft and Dear ing, awakens a great troop of happy memories, of picnics, of dances, of amateur theatricals.
Once upon a time when the mud was nearly knee deep, the stroller and some others decided to serenade their friends. No one in the party could sing or play any musical instrument. They roused up a friend who thought he could play a fiddle. He refused to go unless he could ride. So the party borrowed (f) the buggy of the friends father (see Pasquelle) and hauled him the length of Milledge avenue, stopping to fiddle along the way. The last house was the Bearings, and as he was sitting in the buggy, and concluded his musical(f) performance, he called to the boys to pull him home lively. Some one up the street called back that hed have trouble in the morning about
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that buggy if he didnt rush it home. A sadden descent from his previous haughty manner, and earnest solicitation, brought the party to his assistance. He did his full share as horse on the home trip. The stroller names no names, because the last time he reminded this gentleman, now a grandfather, of this episode, he flatly denied the whole thing. However, any survivor of that serenade can recall the incident.
On the right of the street beyond Waddell was the A. P. Dearing home. Except that the part where
house stands, has been cut off, and the brick wall which sur rounded the place has been removed, the house and grounds look much a* of yore. The house is too substantial to show much change. This is one of the three or four houses in Athena in which the same family are now living who were there when the stroller came to this village. Rarely do we find in the South today one who like Mrs. Dearing has spent so many years of her married life in her own home. Tenderly eared for, she is like a delicate piece of fine old porcelain. The sons of the house were and are the strollers friends, one was a classmate at college, another went to school to him.
The stroller remembers with pleasure the courtesy shown him by Mrs. Emory Speer, who was Miss Sallie Dearing, during his visits to Athens while he was living at Jefferson. The Speen lived on Dearing street, and the stroller was law partner in Jackson county with Hon. Emory Speer.
Mrs. Brittain Wares house was where Mr. L. P. Edwards now is. She kept a~school there. There were cotton fields, wood* and an old Confederate earth work, until we come to the farm of p(r W. N. White. The house has been remodeled and is the ^ home of Mr. G. A. MelL Mr. White was the outhor of an ad mirable book on Southern gardening, which has been republished by his son-in-law, Dr. P. H. MelL He was dead before the stroller came to Athens, The stroller got lost in the woods, going from the campus to the White Place to see a friend who was rusticating there. Rusticating does not seem now to be practiced at institutions of learning.
The Cloverhurst farm was owned and operated by Mr. J. A. Meeker. Mr. Scotts house was then owned by Rev. Doctor Myere. His nephew, Hon. TTrederick T. Myers, of Tallahassee, was
3

the strollers closest college friend. That house was built for Pen. W.JkL-Browne. He was Chief of Staff to President Davis, he had been editor of the Washington Constitution, when it was the democratic organ for the whole country; he knew more people, and was known by more people than anyone the stroller ever saw. His family are members of the British gentry, the head of his house is the Marquis of Sligo. He was an interesting talker. He had travelled extensively, was highly educated. And yet when he died, not one of his many friends knew the name or address of any claimant for his estate. Judge Howell Cobb administered his estate and the stroller saw a notice nailed on a tree at the court house door in the Judges handwriting, ad dressed to "The distributees of the estate of W. M. Browne, supposed to be residents in Great Britain and Ireland." Now here arose three violently rash presumptions of law, first, that the Brownes would be passing the court house, second, that they would see the notice, and third, that they would be able to read the handwriting. The stroller and one other (not the Judge) could usually but not always do that.
STROLL VIII.
DOWN LUMPKIN STREET ACROSS TO AND UP DEARING STREET.
Leaving the intersection of Milledge and Lumpkin and coming down Lumpkin toward town, the first houses we find are the buildings of the old fair association. The main building stood where Prof. DeLoachs house is. The race track was between that home and the barns of the State Agricultural College. The first fair and agricultural hone-race the stroller ever attended was held here. He ran in a footrace on Confederate Monument Day, and did not win the race. He wonders if the lady, who gave him the lovely bouquet as a consolation, remembers the circumstance. He feels sure the lady, to whom he gave it, has forgotten it. We come nert to the house of Mr. Henry Brittain. It was built by John Addiaon Cobb and he lived there at one
40

time. Of the Brittain family the stroller knew and felt warm friendship for that prince of good friends, William F. Brittain. The farm has been sold off in lots and much of it has been built upon.
On the right of the street Qov. Wilson Lampions house crown ed Lumpkin Hill. It is one of the most commanding situations in this part of the state. The house is a massive construction of granite, -the work of Scotch masons. Earthquake or man only can demolish it. The stroller hunted birds and rabbits in the Lumpkin woods for many years, but never saw Gov. Lumpkin. Only within the last fifteen years was it his pleasure to make the acquaintance of Miss Martha Atalanta Lumpkin. She mar ried Mr. Compton and lived in the old Lumpkin house until she old it to the University a few yean ago, and moved to Decatur. Marthasville first, and now Atlanta, is her namesake.
On tanyard branch there were two, perhaps three, tanneries, Kirkpatricka and Doyals. The stroller never approached them nearer than the road, the dogs, the usual appanage of tanneries in those days, not inviting nearer acquaintance. The Athletic Field coven the location of Doyals tannery. The stroller thinks it very proper to name the field after Prof. Sanford, but thinks Field sounds somewhat too usual Sanford Meade, or even Sanford Bottom would be less commonplace. The house on the corner of Lumpkin and Baxter was standing at the time of our troll, but the stroller does not remember who lived there. Bev. Ellison D. Stone lived in the house on the right of the street and it was his home until his death. Athena has never had a purer, better citizen than he. His blameless life, and deep piritualtiy, made one better to know him.
The hone on the left where Baldwin street comes in was Mr. Doyals. The next house was Mr. Henry Washbnrns. Mrs. Washburn, her two daughters and two sons lived there. Mr. Washbum was in business in Savannah. He lived permanently in Athena after he retired. Joe Washburn was the first boy friend the stroller made in Athens. The other members of the family except Mrs. Wade, live in Athens.
We come next to the house of Mr. James D. Pittard. He was mayor of Athens for several terms. There was a small house next, which was occupied by W. E. Jones. The family was
41

musical, and the stroller has pleasant recollections of the music on summer nights. When the stroller came to Athens he lived in that neighborhood. Mrs. Lyle lived in the house on the corner now Prof. Akermans residence. The stroller knew Hon. James B. Lyle best of the family. He was a gifted speaker, and it was a pleasure to hear his arguments in court. There were no other houses on that side of the street until we reach Broad street. "We are not talking about the University campus now,
because we expect to take a stroll on the campus. So we turn to the left at the Lyle house, and have Mr. John
W. Nicholsons house in front of us. "When the stroller was a school teacher, Mr. Nicholson sent four of his sons to the school. He was not only a generous patron, but a good friend. Mrs. Nieholson and Mrs. Grady are sisters, their name is OartrelL Mr. Nicholson was a partner of W. S. Grady. The latter wag a captain in Hokes Division, was wounded in battle and never
recovered. Leaving the Nicholson house on our right, we come to the
house on our left, where Mr. and Mrs. Jones, parents of Dr. "William L. Jones lived at the time of our stroll. Dr. H. R.
Bernard lived there in recent years. "We go down the lane to Tanyard Branch and climb the steep
hill (the stroller wishes he had a dollar for every time he climbed it) and we reach the Bancroft farm. Going through the field we pass the house of Mr. James Bancroft, and come to Mr. Edward Bancrofts house. The first call the stroller ever made on a young lady was at that house. It was by no means the last. The members of that family are among the strollers best friends. He may be getting dim-sighted but Mrs. Bancroft looks to him today the same lovely lady of the old times, as when he was so frequent a visitor at her house. Adjoining the Bancroft lands was Mr. R. L. Bloomfields home, now owned by Mr. Alien Talmage. This house also saw the stroller with great frequency. Mr. B. L. Bloomfield, for many years a controlling factor in the business life of Athens, is now spending the quiet evening of his days with children and grandchildren. He is the only sur vivor of the founders of Emmanuel Parish. His activities in church work reached over many years. Pope street has been opened on the line between Bloomfield and Bancroft. Retracing
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our steps to Findlay street, we come to the tree that owns itself. The stroller received a letter last week from one of the most eminent political economists in the country, asking if any could suppose that a tree could own anything. Of course not, the fee is in the adjacent landowner subject to the easement of the highway. This, however, does not alter the fact that some philodendrist ought to have that tree properly doctored, for it has not put out any new growth since the sleet several years ago. The granite enclosure and marble tablet do not furnish proper nourishment.
Going up Dearing street toward MUledge, the block on left was occupied by the house and grounds of Mrs. Her son, Mr. John A. Meeker, lived with her. Dr. J. B. Pope bought the place and lived there for many years, and it is now Mrs. Popes home. On the right the block between Findlay and Pope street was the home of Dr. William L. Jones. When the stroller was in college, he was professor of chemistry. He was editor and proprietor of the Southern Cultivator, the most im portant agricultural journal in this part of the country. He built the Cultivator Office, corner of Broad and Lumpkin, and resigned bis professorship to give attention to editorial work. The stroller did not know him until after that time. There is no man for whose unswerving integrity, and broad intellectuality the stroller has a higher admiration. When he moved to Atlanta he sold the place to Maj. Marcellus Stanley. This lot is one of the most interesting in Athens. Dr. Ward lived there when he was in charge of the botanical garden, and at one time there were more than twenty specimens of rare trees on the place. Perhaps the largest /*j3ft#p^!n the world is there. It stands between two mganoDal." The frost turns the leaves brilliant canary. If you havent seen it, you have missed something.
The block on the left between Pope and Church was and is now the Goodloe Yancey place. The house was built by Mr. Albon Chase. Mr. Deupree bought it and lived there:x^Mr. Yancey married the youngest daughter, Miss Lucy Grattan Denpree. The house has been rented out since the family moved to Atlanta. The strollers introduction to Mr. Yancey was some what strenuous. Throwing a stone, caused Mr. Yanceys horse to be frightened by the red lining of the strollers cloak. He
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-\ ^ \^ . -^

broke from the hitching post (in front of the campus) and left the vicinity. The strollers prompt apology, when the owner appeared, perhaps saved him a dressing. The block on the right of the street was Hon. Young L. G. Harris home. He was president of the Southern Mutual Insurance Company. He founded Young Harris Institute in Towns county, and gave generously to foreign mission work. He had a fund of anecdote retained from his early experiences at the bar. The house faced Pope street. It has been turned to face Dearing, been much improved, and is owned by Mr. T. W. Bncker. Then and now the Thurmond place occupied the whole block between Church and Harris. CoL S. P. Thurmond was one of the most successful lawyers of the circuit and state. The stroller will never forget his kindness and assistance in the fierce hustle which comes the way of the young lawyer. He was a man of many sterling good qualities. The house now owned by Capt. J. H. Bncker was the only one on the block. It was vacant, and was owned by Dr. M. H. Henderson. Afterward Hon. Emory Speer bought it and lived there until he left Athens. Going down the street one crisp sunny morning within the week, the resounding drumming of a woodpecker on a tin roof reminded the stroller of the anecdote which went the rounds of the circuit twenty yean ago about the woodpecker on the roof of the Thurmond house. That woodpeckers descendants are still drumming in that neighbor hood. The Benjamin C. Yancey home occupied the block on the left between Harris and Milledge. The block across the street had no houses. Hon. Pope Barrow afterward built the house now owned by Chancellor David C. Barrow. The stroller spent many a night there. He had studied in Mr. Barrows office. The stroller has never known one more attractive. To brilliant talent was added a personality altogether elegant. Judge Cobb usually made a third in those never-to-be-forgotten evenings. Well! there is chat, talk, saying something, conversa tion. What these two did was the best of all these.
We will not extend our stroll beyond Milledge. There must be at this day something very interesting out there for the street car motormen are all looking out in that direction, and never by chance the other way. The stroller has gone down Dearing street in the mornings for twenty years. In all seasons
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it has its attractions. In spring especially, the handsome trees, the lately flowers, the homes, so homelike, and children playing in the street, the neighhorliness of the neighbors. But it has been improved(f) so that drays and wagons make noise and dust; skaters and bicyclers take the side-walks. A thing which was unique is now the usual side-street of any small town.
STROLL IX. THROUGH LIGKSKILLET.
"Lickskfflet" is bounded by Clayton, Jackson, Hoyt streets and the river. Going north along Jackson street from Hancock avenue we pass the Lnmpkin House, stiU standing on our left, having the side lot of the Hardeman place on our rgiht, now the Syngaogne. Crossing Dougherty street, the first house on our left is the Weatherly house. Next comes the Episcopal parsonage, then occupied by lira. B. W. Wyatt. She lived in Athens until recently, and now makes her home with her son
TTt;
Across "the street .on our right the block was occupied by the lot of Gen. Frierson. The house fronted Dougherty street. There was a large family. All of Gen. Frienons children are now dead except Miss Frierson who holds a position at the Luey Cobb Institute. The stroller never knew Gen. Frierson. fie was Assistant Postmaster General of the Confederate States. Crossing Strong street we have the house of Col. L. H. Charbonnier on our left. He was then professor of engineering in the University. Mrs. Charbonnier was a daughter of Dr. Edward Ware. The stroller received many kindnesses from this happy couple, and is proud to be able to call them his friends. The Charbonnier house has been torn down and rebuilt by Bev. John D. Mell on his Milledge avenue lot. Miss Fannie Atkissoh had a school on the lot opposite Col. Charbonnier, across the street.
Crossing River street, the house first on our left was the home of Mrs. Veitch. The stroller remembers her well. She was a
46

member of the Episcopal church. Mr. Bloomfield managed her business affairs. The house on the corner of Hoyt and Jackson was occupied by Dr. Hal Billups. He was an unusually hand some man, and Georgia did not send to Lees army a more gallant soldier. The house sat with the side to the street, and fronted south. Miss Julia A. Billups was one of the most popular young ladies of that day. The street to the Billups house was kept in constant use by the college boys, of whom the stroller was one. He did his full share in keeping down the growth of grass on that street. Miss Susie Taylor spent part of her time with her uncle, CoL J. A. Billups, in Madison and a part with Dr. Billnps family. Even at that distant day the stroller was training for strolls. On many a Tuesday morning he has walked from Dr. Billups to the point of the Watkinsville road now known as corner of Milledge and Springdale, accompanying her on her regular weekly visit to her "Auntie," Mrs. Hudgins. Not a bad stroll for an amateur. The stroller was not permitted to go to the house, and it was long afterward that he met Mrs. Hudgins, but he found he was no stranger. Miss Susie married Mr. F. B. Lucas. The stroller never knew one more loyal to her friends than she.
The stroller does not recall who lived on the opposite side of Jackson street from Dr. Billups. But the house still standing there is the one in which Henry Grady was born. The house has been changed since then. Hoyt street was then the upper bridge road. Dr. Wares house, now Dr. E. S. Lyndons home, stands at the head of Jackson street. It is one of the moat substantial and handsomely appointed houses the stroller knows. The present owner numbers his friends by scores. His knowledge and keen appreciation of Burns poems was a revelation the first time he furnished the literary feast at. the Twelve Club. Dr. Wares plantation extended to the river, there was an oak and pine wood covering the hill and extending to the stream north of the Northeastern depot. Dr. Ware was dead before the stroller came to Athens, and he thinks Mrs. Ware was dead also. He never saw either of them. Mrs. Barrett and Mrs. Wray, daughters of Dr. and Mrs. Ware, showed kindness to him both here and in Augusta, which he appreciated then and loves now to remember.
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One fiercely hot day the whole town marched in procession out Pulaski street, down into the pine woods on Dr. Wares place, where was a platform and speaking, and band-playing and ban ner waving, and marshals on prancing steeds, and Dr. Henry Hull, the most respected and one of the oldest of Athens citizens, took the pick and broke dirt on the Northeastern Railroad. It was a great day and a hot one, and Flisch did a great business. Standing on the hill near Dr. Wares and looking out toward the water works, one sees today what was then obscured by inter vening trees, the suburban home of Dr. John 8. Linton. When the stroller was investigating for his centennial speech on Athens, he found Dr. Lintons name connected with a greater number of the important business enterprises of Athens than any other. The Athens Factory, the Foundry, the Pioneer Paper Mill, and others. The stroller knew Dr. Linton best on the occasions when he served on the grand jury, and the strollers duties brought him in relation with the members of that body. On any occa sion that offered, he was the strollers friend. The Linton home has been sold and the family live in town. It was one of the most delightful country places near Athens. The house was built by Mr. William Dongherty.
Coming back to Hoyt street, Dr. Hoyt was dead before the time of our stroll. The house is next to Dr. Wares toward the river. Mr. J. E. Pittman owned the house and lived there. One of the oldest houses in Athens is the Burpee house on Hoyt street on the left going toward the river. It has square columns in front.
Turning back toward the town along Thomas street, we have the Witherepoon planing mill on our left, and on our.right the school house of Miss Emily Witherepoon. Her school was long one of the institutions of Athens, and many who are now grand mothers learned their letters at her knee. She died recently full of yean and honors. Next we come to the houses of Severs and Hughes diagonally across the street from each other. On the left between Strong and Dougherty we have the Cooper livery table, and Pat Barrys house and store. If we go farther along Thomas we come to places we have already visited, so we will turn down Dougherty street toward the river. We come to the house now owned by Miss Mary Kennard. The stroller knew it
47

at the time that Maj. T. A. Burke lived there. So we come to Foundry street.
The side of Foundry street next the river was occupied by the Athens Gas Companys plant on the north, and the Athens Foundry and Machine Works on the south. Between the two was the house of Mr. Benben Niekerson, the superintendent of the foundry. The house is still standing. Mr. Niekerson was living in his house on the corner of Clayton and Thomas at the time of our strolL The Athens Foundry was an? unusual concern. It paid twelve per cent dividends on the stock for many years, and two extraordinary dividends of fifty per cent, each. It would seem to have been sagaciously managed. Mr. Thomas Bailey was afterward superintendent. He is one of Athens most respected citizens.
The mention of the gas works recalls a tradition of the Athens Bar. Suit was brought on the ground that the gas pipes had mined the waters of a well. One prominent physician testified that tiie gas would go down; another that it wouldgo up; and a third that it was diffused. Had there been any other way that gas could act, it is at least snpposable that proof might have been adduced thereto. So much for expert testimony.
Looking across the rived toward East Athens, the most con spicuous object is the home of Mr. William A. Carr. Surrounded by a great stone wall, with iron railing on top, and crowning the high hill, then the Georgia Bailroad Depot-Hill, it was nota ble. The stroller did not know Mr. Carr, has seen him, and knew Miss Florrie only slightly. The members of the family who are the strollers friends are Mr. Carrs granddaughter, Mrs. E. K. Lnmpkin and Mrs. B. C. Qrr. The Carr house has been burned, and replaced by a smaller one. When the Georgia Bailroad gave up the old depot, the land reverted to Mr. Carrs heirs under a condition subsequent in the conveyance.
The Athens Factory, just below the lower bridge, was under the snperintendeney of Mr. B. L. Bloomfield. It was among the several phenomenally prosperous enterprises of early Athens. One of tiie best known citizens of Athens, Mr. Peter Gulp, was long connected with the factory. He wrote regularly for the papers. His quaint philosophy and original mode of expression make his contributions to the press worth preserving. It is
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said his son, Capt. Ben Gulp, had a complete file. Most Athen ians knew and respected Ben Gulp. The only time the stroller was ever- arrested, Ben Gulp did it, catching him flagrante ddicto shooting robins in the town limits. No braver soldier ever closed the vent of gun than Ben Gulp.
Once when Mr. Gulp was on the jury, Geo. D. Thomas in his argument spoke of him as a philosopher. He denied the charge, saying he had never been to college. Well, as long as the most eminent philosophers differ as to a definition of phil osophy, Uncle Peter is entitled to his opinion.
The Armory had not then been converted into a cotton factory, but this occurred soon after the time of our stroll.
Looking across the river at the upper bridge, all we see of what is now Barberville is the house and farm of Mr. Wet. Barber. He told the stroller that his father lived in the Cherokee Nation, and Chief Wethersby was his friend, and he named his son Wethersby after the Indian. He was a keen observer, gifted with insight into the ways of nature in her many moods, and full of quaint, shrewd sayings. His receipt to Hon. Emory Speer for fattening horses is a classic in Athens. Every day after the horse has eaten take the soft nubs from the trough and rub down the hones .back. As the gentleman did not find the nubs in the trough, the reason for the leanness is dear. He sold Henry Orady a rooster, for five dollars, which could stand flat footed, eat corn off of a table four feet high. Easy when yon put the corn and rooster both on. the table. He offered to sell bottom land for two dollars an acre. The trade failed when it transpired, that all the top had been washed off.
The stroller asked a friend why there were not now in Athens persons ofdistinctive characteristics, such as abounded in former days. The reply was, that people had to hustle for a living and had no time for contemplation. The stroller thinks it is the effect of the leveling methods of modern educational machinery. The stroller heard Father Byan say, "This is making us a great nation of small men." But we are strolling for pleasure and not to explain sociological conditions.
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STROLL X.
THROUGH THE UNIVERSITY CAMPUS.
University Campos was first seen by the stroller the after noon of a long August day, after a journey of three days and two nights. The schedule time is now eighteen hours, but the stroller has no experience of making that schedule. Passengers on Gann & Reaves four-horse bus, we came up Broad, entered the Campus from Lnmpkin street, near the present Edwards building, drove up the hill through the woods, where Moore .College now stands, and so to the house now occupied by Prof. Strahan, then the home of Prof. William LeBoy Broun. The weary travellers found a hospitable welcome to their new home. The first Athenian the stroller saw was, of course, the doctor, who came to visit one of the children. That doctor was Richard D. Moore.
The iron fence on Broad street was standing then. The main entrance had gates. There were granite steps next to the gates. There were granite steps over the fence about the middle of the tennis courts. There were no enclosures on Jackson and Lumpkin. As many as twenty immense oaks were on the Cam pus. The largest stood where the upper tennis court now is. The buildings were the Library, Ivy-Building, Demosthenian and Phi Kappa Halls, Old and New College, Philosophical Hall, and five professors houses. The Library and Ivy-Buildings have been united and now form the Academic Building. The first floor of the Library was the Prayer Room and the Math ematics Lecture Room. The second floor was the library and the ancient language lecture room. The third floor was the general examination room and the museum. Competent persons pronounce the frescoes in the Old Library to be of unusual merit. The Ivy-Building housed the English and Law Depart ments on the first floor and the modern languages and engineer ing departments on the second floor.
The Society Halls show the wear of time, but otherwise are unchanged, except that both had libraries on the first floor.
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The Chapel looks as of yore, except for the projection in the rear. The interior is changed. The floor was level, the galleries were supported by doric columns, and the painting seemed a continuation of the auditorium. Old and New College are archi tecturally unchanged. Old College looks newer than New College, and New College looks much more ancient than Old College.
The Science building is now used for road demonstration. Physics occupied the lower, and Chemistry, the upper floor. The Chancellors house has been improved. Opposite Prof. Stewarts was a house, making a quadrangle. It was burned. Prof. Stratums house has been improved. Prof. Lustrata house stood where the Library is. It was moved to give a site for the Library. The house on Lumpkin street looks no worse now than it did then.
The faculty were Dr. Andrew A. Lipscomb, Chancellor, Dr. Patrick H. Mell, Ethics and Metaphysics, William LeBoy Broun, Natural Philosophy, Williams Rutherford, Mathematics, Dt. William Jones, Chemistry, William Henry Waddell, Ancient Languages, Leon H. Charbonnier, Engineering, Charles Morris, English, Dr. M. J. Smead, Modern Languages, Frank A. Lipeeomb, Adjunct Ancient Languages, Dr. William L. Mitchell, Law. ff The stroller sampled all of these except Drs. Jones and Smead. From the day when he and six other callow freshmen reported to Prof. Butherford until graduation, he thinks now the happiest years of his life were spent in the University. The prayer hour was six oclock, but, as good fortune would have it, that barbar ous practice was discontinued the year before the stroller entered college. Dr. Lipscomb lived in the Chancellors house, but soon built and occupied a house in town. Prof. Rutherford lived in Prof. Stewarts house. The first social function the strollers father attended in Athens was the wedding in that house, of Prof. Frank Lipacomb and Miss Mary Ann Rutherford. More than forty years passed before another wedding was celebrated there. Prof. Waddell lived in the house opposite Prof. Batherfords. CoL Broun lived in Prof. Stratums, Dr. Mell in Prof. Lustrats house. The strollers father and his family lived in the house on Lumpkin street until Dr. Lipscomb moved up town and then they occupied the Chancellors house for six or seven yean. The stroller and his brother had a cotton crop in the
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garden, corner of Lnmpkin and Baldwin. They made fifteen dollars. Being fresh from the cultivation of a tobacco crop, the very thought of which makes the bones ache, and the profits be ing nothing the stroller has always thought that riding in .a carriage and working the road (the stroller has done that) fur nishes a fit parallel to cotton and tobacco raising.
Maj. John Barnwell was the librarian. His family lived in Old College. They were refugees. Their home was destroyed during the war. The stroller found a list of the refugees in an old minute book of the vestry of Emmanuel Parish. He wishes he knew enough about them to give some personal details. They were from Charleston, Savannah, Mobile and New Orleans, and lived in Old College during the war.
Three professors had sixteen sons. They said that was a sign of war. Fortunately, if it was a sign of anything it was that the war was over.
The strollers college days were spent in the Chancellors house. The rooms upstairs were rented to students. One of the favorite frolics was theatricals. MSB Leila Hull, Miss Millie Rutherford, Miss Bessie Rutherford, Smith Clayton, Edward M. Hammond, F. T. Myers come to mind, as players in the plays.
For many years familiar figures on the campus were Old Tub and his grandson Charley. Many an alumnus coming back yean after graduation called for "Angels Bid me Come," and con tributed to Tubs house rent. His mmrinnnm was a dime. An other character was Squire Nabors, with blue jeans, spike tail coat, and brass buttons. He always sought out the students when he was "bobbin* roun a spell." He seemed only amusing then, but pathos takes the pas when we recall that his four gallant sons fell on the fields of Virginia, following the Southern Crow. Their names are on the monument in front of the Campus gate. Next to commencement, the annual stockholders meeting of the Georgia Railroad in Augusta was the biggest frolic. All stock holders had free tickets and the students swarmed in Augusta. The stroller and four other college boys went on a ticket issued to a certain maiden lady "and family." Commencement was one of the great events of the state. Distinguished people, young men, and maidens, graced the occasion. Interest centered in the Chapel exercises. There was one ball, and less dancing than now.
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In slavery times commencement day was a general holiday, and for years afterward the colored population thronged the streets, and it looked like several circus days. A negro was killed on commencement day by a policeman, and there has never been a turnout of the colored contingent since.
There were in college many men who had served in the armies, and one-armed and one-legged men were no unusual sights in the class rooms. The Literary Societies were the most important factors in the University next to the class work itself. The stroller was regularly fined for failing to debate. He many a time wished that some others would fail to debate as often as they failed in debate.
New men were turned in and the graduates were turned out. One year the Seniors resisted, and things were lively, but they were turned. Men who failed to get Sophomore declamation places were buried on the campus with appropriate ceremonies. Dr. Lapacomb came to the University immediately aiM the war, and he it was who gathered up the wrecks and started the institution after three years suspension. He was a man of pure and sound literary taste, and an orator of power. His lectures to the Senior class on Shakespeare, Milton, Raphael gave a re fining finish to a college course.
Dr. Mell was afterward Chancellor. He took charge when the University was in its most critical condition, and by firm administration and constructive wisdom saved the Institution to the state. For many years he presided over the Southern Baptist convention.
Prof. Waddell was truly a son of the University. Under an abrupt manner was concealed a warm heart. His sense of fair ness, his contempt for the small and mean, were strong.
Prof. Bntherford was one of the best men the stroller ever knew. His patience with students, his kindness to them, en deared him to all.
Col. Broun excelled, as a clear elncidator, any teacher the stroller has ever sat under. It was largely due to his efforts that the Agricultural college was located at the University. He was the first president.
The stroller had no classes under Dr. Jones. He was one of the group of young men selected by Prof. Agassiz to accompany
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him in the geological examination, conducted by the United States government, of the Florida Peninsula, with a view to establishing forts.
Dr. Smead was an eminent scholar, and an author. He and Mrs. Smead lived at the Newton house. They had no children. He died while the stroller was in college. He was a Ph.D. of Heidelberg, the only one to hold that degree from a foreign university, ever a member of the faculty.
CoL Charbonnier was the founder of the School of Engineer ing. The leading place the graduates of the school have taken is largely due to him. He took some classes in the University, and it was the strollers good fortune to be in one of them.
The stroller owes him much for training in accurate and neat work.
Of the strollers own father, he only says, that he never goes into a town or village in any part of the state, that some old student does not speak some word of loving remembrance of Major Morris.
Pro! Frank-Lipscomb was the teacher under whom most of the strollers work was done in the first years of his course. Fresh from a course in a German University, he was enthnsiastie in his work, conscientious and eminently just. His early death cut short a brilliant and useful life.
Of Col. Mitchell, the stroller has already spoken in a former stroll.
The faculty was then small, the members were continually thrown in contact with each toher. There were warm and lasting friendships among them . Those on the Campus especially were like a large family. Mrs. Brouns house was the headquarters of all the young folk, she was interested in all their affairs. Prof. WaddelTs family consisted of his mother and sister, Miss Bessie. The latter taught a school, and one of the campus boys writing a composition on "The Hone," stated in the course of his treatise: "Mr. Rutherfords horse is dead." It was a fact, even if not germain. When Prof. Waddell returned from Europe with his bride, there were great doings and entertainments galore. One day a lady came to Mrs. Waddell to mend her sewing ma chine, Mrs. Waddell, senior, looking on thought that either she or Mary had gone crazy, as without warning the latter came
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down on the ladya bead with a sofa pillow. She had suddenly discovered that the sewing machine lady was Miss Millie Botherford. It was a favorite trick to go to the professors houses in disguise to sell eggs and "laightd."
The young ladies of Dr. Hells family were among the most popular in the college community and in the town.
No sketch of the campus would be complete without mention of Mr. F. W. Luscas family. It was one of the most popular houses in the place, and the young ladies were the belles of the day. The house has been moved near the new Alumni HalL It sat on the hill at the end of Jackson street. The lawn extended to Baldwin street. The stroller has had many ,a happy time in that house. The Lucases lived, at one time, in the house now owned by Mr. John Caiiton. It was built by Dr. Church and he retired there when he resigned as President of Franklin Col lege. When Mr. Lucas went north after the war to buy goods, he paid all debts for goods shipped four years before.
The stroller is strolling, and not making comparisons "odor ous" or otherwise, but he does think the large number of the faculty and their scattered residences produces a lack of cohesion, and a loss of etprit de corps. But some man will say, what do you want with eohesian and esprit de corps anyhow! Well! the stroller doesnt want for either. . The stroller notes some of the changes the yean have brought to Athens. From a village of five thousand inhabitants she has grown to a town of nearly twenty thousand. Four railroads have entered her borders. The business section has been prac tically rebuilt. The residences have multiplied. Six banks in stead of one are here. We have paved streets, water works, ice plants, paid fire department, city hall, postoffice, court house, electric lights, electric trolley cars, telephones, public schools, Normal School. The small college community typical of all things Southern has been replaced by a modern prosperous town. The first was unique, the latter is usual Well, you must break eggs to make an omelette. It is all a matter of taste. Some like omelette, others prefer eggs. One is an artificial product, the other contains the germ of life.
So our strolls end on the spot where the strollers foot first touched the soil of Athens.
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I
One may note in pawing that the street* of-Athens usually bear the names of men who have been associated with the early life Of the place. It i a pleasing way of commemorating them. ~S^hSn8al5wm~waa^Gk)vernor when the University was es tablished and wrote the charter. John Milledge donated the land for the site. Josiah Meigs was the first president. Alonzo Church soeeeeded him. Some day some capable person may write interesting sketches suggested by the names of the streets : Baldwin, Mffledge, Meigs, Church, Jackson, Hull, Lnmpkin, Cobb, Clayton, Prince, Hancock, Pope, Harris, Strong, Findlay, WaddelL, Dearing, Hfll, Thomas, Hoyt.
Printed by permission of tlue Athens Banner.
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