Southward ho! Notes of a tour to and through the state of Georgia in the winter of 1885-6 / by Timothy Harley

SOUTHWARD HO!
of a 2Tour to sriti
THE STATE OF GEORGIA
/A' T7/E WINTER [OF 1885-6.
BY THE
REV. TIMOTHY H>rARLEY, F.R.A.S.
Al'THOR OF " MOON LORE," ETC.
Texas possibly exempted, no Southern State has n greater foture than Ce irgia." F.ncyclfipodia Britannia, x. 43^.
LONDON: .*
SA IPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,
CROWN BUILDINGS, l83 F1.EKT STREBT. 1886.
[All rights referred.]

5

I*V^B*

<
*

O
>C

ts by BA;,LAVTV.VE, Hxxso.v A: Ca
Kdinkitrzk and

TO HENRY D. M'DANIEL,
Governor of Georgia, THESE
NOTES OF A TOUR,
TAKEN DURING HIS ADMINISTRATION, ARK, WITH HIS PERMISSION,
Inscribed.
'AI

CONTENTS.

CHAP. I. LEAVING LONDON' .

II. THE MIDLAND RAILWAY

III. LIVERPOOL .

..

IV. OCEAN* NAVIGATION
v. THE ' AL-RANIA'

VI. LIFE AT SKA

VII. NEW YORK .

VIII. ALONG THE COAST .

IX. THE FOREST CITY .

X. THE " SAVANNAH "

XI. SHIPPING AND COMMERCE

XII. CLIMATE AND HEALTH

XIII. POPULATION

XIV. THE COLOURED PEOPLE

XV. EDUCATION .

XVI. RELIGION .

XVII. BETHESDA .

XVIII. THE STATK .

PAGE I
5 .9
13 t 24 28
32 36 4i 46
54 (n 64 6 70
79 87

vi

CONTEXTS.

CHAP.

.

.

PAGE

XIX. THE CENTRAL RAILROAD .

89

XX. THE LAND AND THE CROPS

".

-95

XXI. THE CENTRAL CITY

.

.

103

XXII. COLLEGES . ' .

.

.

. 105

XXIII. GRIFFIN

..... XI4

XXIV. THE GATE CITY

.... 117

XXV. ECCLESIASTICAL FREEDOM

.

. 121

XXVI. A COLOURED UNIVERSITY .

.

. 130

. XXVII. ALLATOOXA

.

.

.

.133

XXVIII. MINERALS AND MINES

.

.

-137

XXIX. AUGUSTA .

.

.

.

-142

XXX. A THUNDER-STORM .... 146

XXXI. ATHENS

..... 149

XXXII. GAINESVILLE

.

.

.

. - 153

XXXIII. NEW HOLLAND SPRINGS .

.

. 156

XXXIV. CLARKSVILLE

.

.

.158

XXXV. NACOOCHEE VALLEY

.

l5a

XXXVI. TALLULAH FALLS .

.

.

. 164 .

XXXVII. QU1TMAN .

.

.

.

. 169

XXXVIII. THOMASV1LLE

.

.

.

.184

XXXIX. THE ARTESIAN CITY

.

.

. 189

XL. AMERlCf S .

.

.

.

.IQI

XI.I. COLUMBUS ..... 193

XLII. SUMMING UP

.

195

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

i

PACE

THE MIDLAND RAILWAY STATION, ST. PANCRAS

4

THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP " BRITANNIA," 1840

12

THE CUNARD STEAMSHIP "AURANIA" .

18

THE NEW YORK HOTKL . .

33

A VIEW OF SAVANNAH AS IT STOOD, agTH MARCH

j 1734 ......... 39

THE " SAVANNAH " OF 1819 . . . . . 43

THE STEAMSHIP " CITY OF SAVANNAH," 1884

44

THE COTTON EXCHANGE, SAVANNAH

SO

THE COTTON PLANT . . . . ' .

97

WESLEYAN FEMALE COLLEGE, MACON . . . 107

MERCER UNIVERSITY, MACOV . . . ... in THE KIMBALL HOUSE, ATLANTA .... '118

THi E SOLDIER'S GRAVE ...... TrtE AUGUSTA ORPHAN ASYLUM . .

TALI.ULAH FALLS ....... I6S

THE PINEY WOODS HOTEL, THOMASVILLK . . 185

SOUTHWARD HO!
CHAPTER I.
LEAVING LONDON.
JEAVING London, that eternal laby rinth of straight and crooked streets, with endless lengths of vehicles, light and heavy, fleet and
slow; that bewildering wilderness of bricks and chimney-pots, dust and smoke, with its four or five millions of men, women, and children, every one of whom has, actively or passively, to conjugate each day the verb to be, to do, or to suffer ;--leaving that centre of world-wide com merce and correspondence, that Babylon, Athens, Rome, and Jerusalem all in one; that aggregate of untold good and untabulated evil; leaving

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SOUTHWARD HO.'

all this and these behind us, we turn our face towards one province of the " Greater Britain," whose progress in self-government, self-edu^ation, and self-improvement has contributed so immensely to make the Lesser Britain truly Great.

THE MIDLAND RAILWAY STATION, ST. PAN^RAS.

CHAPTER II.
THE MIDLAND RAILWAY.
ifHE MIDLAND RAILWAY is our route from London to Liverpool. This line is a favourite with both Bri tons and Americans. " Honour
to whom honour is due." First to run thirdclass carriages on all of their trains, thus providing for the convenience of the poor; first to carry Pullman cars night and day, thus consulting the comfort of the rich; first to introduce the admirable system of checking baggage, thus securing the property of all alike; the Midland line deserves as well as receives a very large proportion of public patronage. Besides, its trains travel easily, rapidly, and punctually, passing through some of the most picturesque and charming districts in England ; and at every station the student of English

6

SOUTHWARD HO !

history finds his reading so revived, that the pleasures of memory transform the journey into a continuous mental joy. * Here we are already at St. Albans, so named from the first British martyr, who was bom here, and who died during the bitter persecu tion under Diocletian. Nor can we forget that hard by is the site of the ancient Verulam of the Romans, and the scene of two battles be tween the rival houses of York and Lancaster. In the parish church of St. Michael's rests all that is mortal of the "wisest, brightest," but, with due deference to Pope, surely not the "meanest of mankind," Francis Bacon, first Lord Verulam, and afterwards Viscount St. Albans. Now we have just left Luton, with its busy thousands of straw-plaiters; and anon we are in Bedford, the town of Bunyan's shameful imprisonment and glorious dream. Here is Kettering, still trading in boots and shoes, as it was in the year 1792, when William Carey, the "consecrated cobbler," offered himself as . the first missionary of an apostolic society which began the spread of the gospel among the heathen nations on a capital of ^13, 25. 6d, But human feet require stockings as well as shoes, and lo! this is Leicester, so noted for

f

MIDLAND RAILWAY.

^

its manufacture of worsted hosiery. Here may have dwelt that widow Hannah, who wrote as her .husband's epitaph

" He left his hose, his Hannah, and his love, To go and sing Hosanna in the realms above."

Here in the brave days of old stood the Roman town of Rate, and here at a later period the powerful Simon de Montfort abode in his stronghold, some parts of which yet remain. Not far off is Leicester Abbey, where in 1530 died the ambitious Wolsey. Now we are in the vicinity of the Trent, not many miles from Burton, and the thirsty imagination scents the famous bitter beer. We once heard of Bass's ale being sold on Mount Zion at two shillings a bottle.
At Derby, where in 1717 England's first silkmill was erected, we have five minutes for re freshment. It was in Derby that we were once told of a hungry traveller who rushed into the refreshment-room, and, beginning to devour whatever he laid his hasty hands upon, gasped out, " How long have I ? " The waitress coolly answered, " Fifteen minutes, sir." " Then,5' said the traveller, "I needn't choke myself." She, with unrippled placidity, added, " No, sir;

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SOUTHWARD HO f

you need not choke yourself if you hteoerft fifteen minutes." Feeling that the young lady was too far North for him, he subsided and left. We, too, have left, and are in the midst of

The wooded bills and grassy dales Of Derby's lovely county.
Where Nature's effort never fails In beauty or in bounty.
Romantic Matlock sleeps there in the hollow ; and this is Rowsley, where, thanks to the Mid land Railway Company's desire to please their patrons, all who travel between London and Liverpool may break their journey to visit Chatsworth, the superb seat of the Duke of Devonshire. Another pause may be made at Miller's Dale for a view f beautiful Buxton, the through tickets being good for several days. Such regulations show sound sense, and are steps in the right direction. Passing Monsal Dale, the "Arcadia of the Peak," we stop a moment at Stockport, where cotton is manu factured on a large scale; and then the rapid race is run as we gain our goal in far-famed Liverpool. We have done the two hundred miles in five hours, notwithstanding several stops.

CHAPTER II I.
LIVERPOOL.
(HAT a striving, driving, thriving town this Liverpool has becpme !' In less than two hundred years it has multiplied its population a
hundred times. In the year 1700, when its first dock was constructed, it numbered 5714 souls; in 1881 it contained 573,202. In 1700 the tonnage of vessels entering its port was about 5000. Now it is about 7,000,000. -In 1635 it had no mention on the map of the kingdom; now it appears in capitals as a mighty city, boasting most attractive suburbs, majestic buildings, and magnificent docks. These docks extend for ten miles along the Mersey, and include 250 acres of water space.
The renowned landing-stage, nearly a quarter of a mile in length, is approached by a floating

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SOUTHWARD HO.'

bridge, which is the finest of its kind in all the world. Here come and go the ships of Europe and Asia, America and Australia, from and to the uttermost parts of the earth. Here are landed daily large consignments of the cotton, turpentine, sugar, rice, and tobacco produced on Southern plantations: thus Liverpool is linked with the interests of those fertile States which are capable of growing and exporting, in the raw material or manufactured, the means to clothe and feed, sweeten and fumigate the world.

THB CWNARD JTEAM5H1H " BRITANNIA,"

CHAPTER IV.

OCEAN NAVIGATION.

have changed since Ursa

Major Johnson enlarged, as Bbs3

well says he often did, upon the

wretchedness of a sea-life. " A

ship is worse than a gaol There is, in a gaol,

better air, better company, better conveniency

of every kind ; and a ship has the additional

disadvantage of being in danger. When men

come to like a sea-life, they are not fit to live on

land." This was spoken in 1776, during the

dark ages of navigation, when the burly autocrat

of the British breakfast-table was nearly fifty

years before ocean steamers, and nearly seventy

years old.

I

Times have changed since the ever-lovible

Charles Dickens wrote his "American Notes,"

"1"

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SOUTHWARD HO f

in which he told the world that he would " never forget the one-fourth serious and threefourths comical astonishment with which, on the third of January eighteen hundred and forty-two, I opened.the door of, and put my head into, a 'stateroom ' on board the Britannia steam-packet, twelve hundred tons burthen per register, bound for Halifax and Boston, and carrying her Majesty's mails."
Times have changed since September 1845, when Sir Charles Lyell paid his " Second Visit to the United States," regarding which he writes: "On leaving the wharf, we had first been crammed into a diminutive steamer, which looked like a toy by the side of the larger ship of 1200 tons in which we were to cross the ocean. I was reminded, however, that this small craft was more than three times as large as one of the open caravels of Columbus in his first voyage, which was only fifteen tons burden, and without a deck. It is indeed marvellous to reflect on the daring of the early adventurers; for Frobisher, in 1576, made his way from the Thames to the shores of Labrador with two small barques of twenty and twenty-five tons, not much surpassing in size the barge of a man-of-war ; and Sir Humphrey Gilbert crossed

OCEAN NAVIGATION.

to Newfoundland, in 1583, in a barque of ten

tons only."

j

Now, in 1885, the Atlantic aquarium may be

crossed .in six or seven days, in an iron or steel

ship of such vast dimensions, such elaborate

arrangements for the convenience and comfort

of every class of passengers, and such extensive

popular patronage, that to the man of business

life at sea is a necessity grown to be a luxtiry,

and to the seeker after pleasure, a luxiury

grown to be a necessity. Consequently,' we

find it no hardship to board the tender-ship

which bears us, with bag and baggage, to the

Cunard royal mail steamer Aurania, bound for

New York.

I

Now we are alongside; now aboard; now

below to find our rooms; now on deck to watch

the receding city; and now everything has

settled into quiet and order, for we are fairly

out to sea. Everybody is eager to secure a seat

at the table; but not every seat which is''en

gaged will be occupied. Already some ^are

disquieted within them; and, with loss of

courage and colour, have retired from the vul

gar gaze. A run of fourteen hours has broiight

us into the splendid harbour of Queenstown,

or, as some people prefer to call it, the Cove

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SOUTHWARD HO f

of Cork. Here we embark mails and more passengers of both sexes. And now, leaving Fastnett Light astern, we are on the channel of the deep which once divided, but which, by ships above and cables below, to-day binds in cordial brotherhood the two nations whose language and literature, laws and religion, are indivisibly one.

THE CUNARD STBAMSHIP AUKANIA

CHAPTER V.
THE AVRANIA.
HE Aurania is a magnificent s earn vessel of 7500 tons gross regi ter; 7269 tons according to morfe ac curate measurement. She I was
built in 1883 on the Clyde in Scotland. JHer material is of fine steel, and her dimensions are 470 feet long and 57 feet broad. These proportions indicate a new departure. Hitherto the Cunard Company's steamers were in lehgth ten times the width. But to obtain greater stability and more commodious staterooms land saloon, the beam of the Aurania was incre^ed to nearly an eighth of her length. Her si lip's company are a host in themselves. They number:

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SOUTHWARD HO.'

In the sailing department. . In the engineer's department . In the steward's department .

56 . 87 .91

Total . . 234
Her passengers on the present voyage are classed as follows:
Saloon passengers .... Intermediate passengers . - Steerage passengers

Total . . ' 609
Yet, with 843 souls on board, there is room to spare; for she is fitted to carry 480 cabin- and 700 steerage passengers, besides having rooms for officers, and a forecastle and poop with accommodation for the crew. Her cabin ac commodations are excellent,, though some of the staterooms are necessarily small too small. In fact, state and room are the two things in which a " stateroom " is usually at fault.
Still, the passengers are many, the rates are low, and the time is short. The provision made for those who go into the steerage is commendable; the apartments are very clean, the food is good and abundant, and the whole very cheap. Many poor persons fare far better

THE AURANIA.

21

on board than they do on shore. The spa< ious saloon, which is in the forepart of the sh p, is over 50 feet wide by 75 feet long. It ha; six rows of tables, with seats for over 300 guests. It is well lighted by 88 incandescent electric lamps. The cuisine, for quality, quantity, and variety, is all that could be desired (much i lore than some desire), and the attendance obli jing and prompt. Over the dining-saloon is the music-room, containing a Collard & Col lard piano of fine tone. The furniture and def ora tions altogether afford pleasure and comfort; and the electric lights in the bedrooms, which may be turned on or off at the will of the o :cupants, are much appreciated and admired. When we have added a good smoking-room, an elegant ladies' cabin, bath-rooms, ele< trie bells, and other aids to enjoyment, we 1 ave described in brief a floating hotel, second only to a settled and happy home.
How few of those who pace up and down the deck of this great steamer, and look up to the gigantic red smoke-stacks, over nine feet in diameter, or listen to the thumping of the machinery, have any idea of the tremencous fires and forces beneath their feet! Yet tl ose smoke-stacks, 94 feet from the top to the

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SOUTHWARD HO.f

bottom, are carrying off the smoke of forty-two

furnaces, which are burning and blazing

vehemently night and day. Down in the depths

of this ship are six steel double-ended boilers,

15 feet in diameter, with six of Fox's patent

corrugated furnaces to each; and two single-

ended boilers, each of whose furnaces are three.

These boilers contain 340 tons of water.

|

The Aurania possesses compound engines

of most massive description, which can develop

nearly 10,000 horse-power, and produce a speed

'

of about 17^ knots an hour, with a daily con

sumption of 210 tons of coal. Her engines

have three cylinders, two of 94 inches each, and

?

one of 68 inches, with a stroke of six feet. Her

shaft is 21 inches in thickness; her propeller of

four blades is 23 feet in diameter, and by the

watch we found the revolutions of her screw to

be over sixty to the minute.

One day we ran 407 miles; but she has

accomplished as much as 430 miles in the day.

She has such an enormous spread of sail, that

she could make a rapid passage under canvas

alone, and probably surpass any sailing vessel

afloat And her internal capacity is so vast, that

she could carry sufficient coal to enable her to

go round the globe at fifteen knots an hour, with-"

THE AURANJA.
out stopping once to replenish her stock of] fuel. In every respect she is a grand boat
The Cunard Steamship Company, established in 1840, have been very fortunate with their large fleet and long history. They boast with truth that they have never lost a life non (till the Oregon was sunk) a letter, and while they run such steamers as the Aurania they will never lack patronage among the increasing multitudes who, for trade or pleasure, go ta the sea in ships. Voyagers of all creeds wittj ac knowledge that these marvellous products of human intelligence, skill, and resources are evidences of man's dominion over the land and water, and demonstrate his viceroyalty as repre sentative of the Eternal King, whose way is in the sea, and whose wonders are in the deep.

1
CHAPTER VI. LIFE AT SEA.
{OVERS of variety are amply ac commodated on the Atlantic, where calm and commotion take their turns. "Tis sad by fits, by
starts 'tis wild." And when it is really rough, "ocean into tempest wrought" is no fanciful figure of speech. A voyage in a Sunbeam is one thing, but a voyage in a storm is another. " Rocked in the cradle of the deep" is very well as a nursery-rhyme, but rocks and cradles are not wanted in a roaring sea. When every passenger is topsy-turvy, somehow nohow, wrong side up without care; when the head is where the feet should be and the heart is in the mouth; when the aching cranium is distracted with shrieks of women and cries of children, clanging of bells and crashing of crockery,

LIFE AT SEA.
thumping of machinery and thundering o waves; when the ship itself is sea-sick, rolling and pitching, heaving and straining, now lean ing over to port, " hard over," and anon slued to starboard See-saw! O law! when the very ocean swells and heaves as if overcharged with whales eager to disgorge themselves of disagree able Jonahs; when this confounded confusion or confusion worse confounded, is at its wildest then the boldest holds his breath for a time, and t if anybody ventures to poetise about life on the ocean wave, he is unceremoniously silencec as a fraud or a fooL Even the officers on the bridge and the skipper are sick of the sea.
But a ship is not always in a gale of wind contending with the turbulent temper of a heavy swell. Smooth voyages are not infrequen during every month of the year. There are quiet nights when the soft winds but whisper to the dreamy waves, when the starry gems glisten in the still expanse of heaven, when the un molested moon bathes with silvery beauty the bosom of the sleeping sea, when the auroral lights shoot their feathery arrows towards the polar star and form their pyramids of electric splendour; and then a promenade on deck with some sympathetic companion is a spiritual en-

26

SOUTHWARD HO !

chantment. There are delightful days when the majestic vessel moves merrily along her course, when her ways are ways of pleasantness and all her paths are peace, when the warm sun shines without clouds in an expanse of blue serenity, when the dimples on the face of the deep only save a sea of gladness from settling into a sea of glass; and then the day is a dream without the sleep, an sntepast of that perfect bliss of which a pious poet has sung with delectable sweetness
" There shall 1 bathe my weary soul In seas of heavenly rest,
And not a wave of trouble roll Across my peaceful breast."
Some things which occur on board an ocean steamer are made matters of comment and newspaper correspondence when the shore is regained. For example," strictures, wise and otherwise, are written on the subject of- poolselling and poker-playing. Now we take no stock in such amusements ourselves, but we fail to see how the owners of the boats are respon sible for such practices, or how they can be put down by official prohibition.
Steamship companies are public carriers, and, according to their charters, must convey all per sons, irrespective of character, who pay for their

LIFE AT SEA.

27

passage. So long as no law of the land is in fringed, and no rights of other passengers ale interfered with, gambling, however much it may be regretted, cannot be repressed. It is true that the smoking-room is sometimes uncon genial to persons who object to the auctioning of numbers and the playing of cards; but so also is the saloon uncongenial to some on a Sunday morning when a religious service is per formed, which even good Christians may find uninteresting, and which Roman Catholics and Jews, Mohammedans and infidels, regard with conscientious dislike. The only remedy would be the construction of an apartment for gentle men like the boudoir provided for ladies, to which other religionists might resort when the sectarian service of the Episcopal Church of England was being recited on Sunday, and into which non-smokers and non-gamblers might retire when auctions of numbers were being held on other days. It is impossible to please every- " body ; but the companies must be credited with the desire to make all of their patrons as comfort able as possible while on their boats.
Now land is in sight " So He bringeth us into the desired haven."

CHAPTER VII. /
NEW YORK.
AST night, when about 300 miles from New York, we took on board a pilot, who left the city over a week ago, and had been waiting
on the look-out for inward-bound steamers. This evening we saw the welcome light of Fire Island on our starboard bow, and soon after the lights of the heights of Neversink arose on the port side of the ship. Crossing the bar, we are in the fine harbour of New York. It is a ques tion which is the grandest harbour in the world. Some say Rio de Janeiro, others say Halifax; some say Queenstown, and others again New York. No doubt all of these, with others not mentioned, are splendid havens, worthy of the imperial seas and of the maritime nations whose merchants meet in their peaceful waters to inter-

.NEW YORK.

29

change the friendly greetings which accelerate the federation of the world.
New York, as a seaport and commercial centre, can hasdly be overpraised. Certainly the paving of West Street along the North River, and some other streets besides, might be improved, as it will be when the civic autho rities consider their ways. But the Broad way, who can animadvert on that ? Without the least reservation, it must be pronounced the most magnificent business avenue on the face of the earth. From the Bowling Green to Grace Church, it is a straight line of stately scores, which stand like the palaces of merchant princes in a commonwealth of kings. Brooklyn Bridge is an extraordinary feat of engineering skill and municipal enterprise, even though wonders are the order of the day. The City Hall, the Central Park, the many expensive churches and expansive hotels, the long and high rows of costly mansions, where the busy crowds are distributed to rest themselves in the blessed atmosphere of home, all of these make New York the fit metropolis of a great and growing nation whose material prosperity is the boast of mankind.
One morning, regardless of a heavy rain, we

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SOUTHWARD HO.'

rode out to the magnificent Roman Catholic Cathedral on Fifth Avenue, and reverently gazed on the face of the dead Cardinal M'Closkey, as he lay on a catafalque in the centre aisle of the building which embodied the doctrines of the Church in whose fellowship he lived and died. At his feet hung his red cardinal's hat, as though he had done with the princely honours of even the Holy Roman Empire. He reposed in his archiepiscopal robes, and his calm, placid, venerable countenance looked the model of a spiritual overseer; while the motto on the drapery beneath his head, "/ spem t'ite cztertuz" reminded us that the greatest dignitary dies as the least of all saints, " in hope of eternal life." If it were not for that hope, how humiliating would have been the contrast between the good and holy man whose days were threescore and fifteen years, and the lofty structure of soulless granite around him, able to endure through a thousand generations!
The corner-stone of this superb edifice was laid by the first Archbishop of New York, Dr. John Hughes, on the 15th of August 1858, and still awaits completion by the addition of its towers.
Its length is 334 feet, the width of its nave 96 feet Cardinal M'Closkey was to have finished it,

NEW YORK.

3t

but death has interrupted his wprk upon earthly

tabernacles, and called him to the building of

God eternal in the heavens.

During previous visits we had crossed to

Brooklyn, and heard Henry Ward Beecher and

Dr. Talmage, the one still regarded as the most

powerfully intellectual, the other as the most

popularly sentimental, of American preachers.

We have also visited Baptist, Episcopalian,

Presbyterian, and Universalist churches, and

found there noble men, such as Dr. Armitage,

the late Dr. Chapin, Dr. Deems, Dr. Dix, and

Dr. HalL

!

CHAPTER VIII.
ALONG THE COAST.
IAVING lost our sea-legs and re gained stability by sojourning awhile in the New York Hotel, a convenient, commodious, and
comfortable house, capable of entertaining four hundred and fifty guests, and entertaining them well, we quit this favourite resort of Southern visitors, and take to the water again on one of the Ocean Steamship Company's fine boats, the Nacoochee. She was built three years since*at Chester, in Pennsylvania, or the woody land of William Penn. She is a staunch vessel of 3000 tons according to the old measurement, 2000 according to the new, and develops 1800 horse-power by means of four boilers, heated by twelve furnaces, which consume forty tons of coal a day. She has two masts, schooner-

ALONG THE COAST.

33

rigged Her length is 313 feet, her width 40 feet She makes good speed, is steady, like most steamers, in smooth water, and runs be tween Sandy Hook and Tybee Island in a litde over fifty hours. Like the other ships of the line, she never lacks freight to and fro, and

THE NEW YORK HOTEL.

never ought to lack a full list of passengers, for

her cabin accommodation is excellent, and the

table is always supplied, at seasonable hours,

with enough and to spare.

,

As we steam along this extensive coast from

New York to Savannah, a distance of seven

hundred nautical miles, and reflect how small

a portion of the United States New Jersey,.

o

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SOUTHWARD HO f

Maryland, Virginia, and the Carolinas are, we can easily explain and excuse the "spreadeagleism " which extols this mighty country as the " biggest thing " under the sun. In fact, we once heard an ardent spirit exclaim, " It's not only the greatest country, it's the only coun try." But we found that he was "enthused" with a partiality which several brandy-and-sodas had been unable to quench.
Such a continent as North America, stretch ing from the boreal pole almost to the equator, and dividing the two grandest oceans of the globe by over three thousand miles of rich ter ritory, if it cannot be peopled by a race of giants, is at least conducive to gigantic patriot ism and entitled to gigantic praise. Part of this immense tract of country, still in the pos session of the British crown, the symbol of a colonisation which has encircled the earth, sup ports an increasing population of leal and loyal colonists. We pray for the progress and peace of Canada: "They shall prosper who love her." The other part of North America, with the ex ception of Mexico, has now constituted for over a century the abode of a new nation, indepen dent and free, whose development has been a chief contribution towards making the past

ALONG THE COAST.

\ 35

hundred years the most eventful era in the

history of our enterprising race.

Geographically, the United States are sepa

rated into three sections, commonly called the

East, the West, and the South. Politically, the

distinction has been between the South a$d the

North, the latter including East and West We.

are now within sight of the Southern States, and

to these our attention will be confined. For

the sake of convenience, we select one State

as a sample of the rest, and one city as a

standpoint from which a whole section may

be viewed. Our choice falls upon Georgia,

one of the old thirteen, and upon the beauti

ful metropolis, or " mother city " of that' Empire

State, Savannah, the paradise of this Sunny

South.

.

!

CHAPTER IX.
THE FOREST CITY.
&AVING crossed the bar of the Savannah river, which vessels drawing from twenty to twentyfive feet of water may navigate
at high tide, we are abreast of Tybee Light, which beams across the waves like a loving eye " which marks our coming and looks brighter when we come." General Oglethorpe, John Wesley, and George Whitefield saw this same Tybee Island last century, and were glad. We ascend the river about midnight. The halfmoon has just gone down; the Pleiades and Orion, with their countless companions, are glittering over our heads; the incandescent lights of the city are scintillating in the dis tance and repeating their glances in the stream,

THE FOREST CITY.

37

like ornaments of gold in a long robe of silver, as we glide along by the aid of a strong electric light projected Irom the bow of the ship, and so reach the welcome wharf. The mlorning finds us comfortably settled for a season in a Savannah home. To those who have private friends there is no lack of cordial hospitality, though to strangers there is not offered that ample hotel accommodation which may be found in many other cities. On this atcount thousands of visitors pass through who 'would otherwise remain many a day. This deficiency will have to be supplied very soon, for the at tractions of the place cannot be resisted when once they are known.
There are far vaster and wealthier cities, with much more commerce and culture than this city; but for architectural simplicity and natural beauty, for an indescribable charm about its streets and buildings, its parks and squares, its trees and flowers, its genial climate and con genial inhabitants, there is but one Savannah. Without a rival, without an equal, it stands unique. By taking up our temporary abode in this little fertile forest, with its rectangular rows of cheerful residences reposing beneath the cool ing umbrage of tall pines and sycamores!, live-

38

SOUTHWARD H'O f

oaks and magnolias, with here and there a palmetto or a cypress tree; by mingling with its chivalrous and generous citizens, most of whom are of the South, unmistakably Southy, and by watching its thriving trade in imports and exports, or turning to inspect its various educational, benevolent, and religious institu tions, we shall derive many advantages iri our pursuit of knowledge. Then, by starting from this centre and radiating over Georgia, we shall explore a State about whose soil and climate, productions and resources, the half has never been told a State which, when it shall have its deserts, will be the most popu lous and prosperous region in the western hemisphere.
Savannah was first settled in the early spring of 1733 by General James Oglethorpe with about thirty families. In the summer of the same year the settlers assembled on the strand, now called Bay Street, and, after a devotional Service, in which they thanked God that the lines had fallen to them in a pleasant place, they divided their land into lots, designated their wards and tithings, and organised a govern ment for their infant town. In 1766 the settle ment consisted of 400 dwelling-houses, with

THE FOREST CITY.

39

churches and other public buildings. In 1776 it was lost to the British, who took it again in 1778, but formally ceded it to the Americans in
1783. In 1789 Savannah was made a city, and next year elected her first mayor. Her sub

sequent history has been full of important inci

dents, most of which have contributed to her

growth and gain.

. i"

A century and a half of progression has

slowly built up both the place and the people,

and developed that enlargement, enrichment,

and enlightenment which constitute the ever

green leaf and golden fruit produced after many

seasons from a healthy stock planted in a

40

SOUTHWARD HO I .

wealthy soil. The city has a civilisation which has ripened through the culture and experience of a hundred and fifty years. This explains the social superiority of Savannah over other towns throughout the State.

CHAPTER X.

.

j

1

THE SAVANNAH.

\

April 1819 the steamship Savan

nah, the first steamer ever built

in the United States, and built

solely by Savannah's merchants

and money, arrived from New York. In May

she left for Liverpool Savannah is properly

proud of the fact that the first steamship that

ever crossed the Atlantic sailed from her port

and bore her name. She was the pioneer of self-

propelled ocean navigation, and to her enter

prise belongs the palm. From the Tints of

London, Wednesday, June 23, 1819, we take

the following notice :

(

" LIVERPOOL, June 21. Among the arrivals

yesterday at this port, we were particularly gra

tified and astonished by the novel sight of a

fine steamship, which came round at half after

42

SOUTHWARD HO I

7 P.M., without the assistance of a single sheet, in a style which displayed the power and ad vantage of the application of steam to vessels of the largest size, being 350 tons burden. She is called the Savannah^ Captain Rogers, and sailed from Savannah the 26th of May, and arrived in

THE " SAVANNAH " OF
the Channel five days since. During her pas sage she worked the engine eighteen days. Her model is beautiful, and the accommodation for passengers elegant and complete; this is the first ship on this construction that has under taken a voyage across the Atlantic." Mar' wattes " Commercial Report."
As an example of progress the Savannah of

THE STEAMSHIP "ctTY OP SAVANNAH," tS84'

THE SAVANNAH.

45

i

1819 may be compared with the City of Savan

nah of 1884. The former was of wood, with

uncovered paddle wheels, using pitch pine for

fuel, and of 350 tons burden; the latter is of

iron, with an immersed propeller, consuming

vast quantities of coal daily, and carrying nearly

3000 tons. And yet the Savannah, after visit

ing St. Petersburg, steamed safely home into

her own port on the 2Oth of November 1819,

"with neither a screw, nor bolt, nor rope-yarn

parted," though the little craft had encountered

in the North Sea a heavy gale.

:

CHAPTER XL
SHIPPING AND- COMMERCE.
fEAUTIFUL for situation," Savan nah stands on a high bluff of porous sand Its drainage is perfect, and its sidewalks, of
brick" and stone, are clean and dry an hour after a drenching rain. Being but eighteen miles from the sea, it is naturally the emporium of the vast tracts of alluvial land traversed by the river and its tributaries; it consequently en joys a. greater command of internal navigation than any other city of Georgia. Its shipping interests, domestic and foreign, are rapidly extending every year, brightening the fair propect that Savannah will yet become the New York or Liverpool of the Southern States. This may be inferred from the following tables of tonnage for the one year ending August 31,

SHIPPING AND COMMERCE.

47

1885, as compared with the number of vessels entering the port in two years terminating on the ist October 1846. fhe total tonnage of vessels entered at the custom-house of Savannah from October i, 1844, to October i, 1846, was 105,089, and the total amount cleared was 133,915. But in 1885, less than forty years afterwards, the records read :

Ko. Tonnagt,

American vessels entered Foreign vessels entered .
Total entrances . American vessels cleared Foreign vesseb cleared . .
Total clearances . Grand total

400 280
680 420 ; 250
670 1350

494.337 176.539
670,876 S03.656 170,008
673,664
1,344,540

Of the vessels visiting this port a large proportion are coastwise steamers, running regularly between Savannah and New York, Philadelphia, Boston, and Baltimore; while along the five miles of wharfs European ships of vast dimensions and various nationalities are to be seen every winter taking in heavy cargoes of cotton, lumber, and naval stores for tran-

48

SOUTHWARD HO.'

shipment to foreign ports. The extent of the commercial relations between Savannah and the wide world may be further estimated by the fact that the Governments of the Argentine Confederation, the United States of Colombia, Costa Rica, Venezuela, Peru, Chili, AustriaHungary, Denmark, France, Germany, Great Britain, Holland, Italy, Norway, Portugal, Russia, Spain, Sweden, and Switzerland have consuls or consular agents in this city. We may say of Savannah what Ezekiel said of ancient Tyre, "All the ships of the sea with their mariners are in thee to occupy thy mer chandise."
The total amount of business done in the different departments of trade in Savannah during the year ending September i, 1885, is close upon a hundred millions of dollars. The following is a careful estimate, worthy of re liance :

Cotton .... Groceries .... Provisions ....
Liquors, tobacco, and cigars Dry goods .... Naval stores . . Fertilisers ....

$37,500,000 13,500,000 4,000,000
3,500,000 3,500,000 3,000,000 3,000,000

THE COTTON EXCHANGE, SAVANNAH.

SHIPPING AND COMMERCE.

51

Lumber . .

.

Boots, shoes, and hats . .

Jewellery . . . .

Hides, wool, c.. . .

Hardware ....

Furniture ....

Retail ....

Miscellaneous . . .

$2,500,000 i, 500,000
1,250,000 750,000 750,000 500,000
18,000,000 1,750,000

Total . . $95,000,000
It will be seen that nearly two-fifths of the above business was done in cotton, in respect of which the progress of Savannah, especially during the past twenty-five years, has been wonderful. Already she is the second cotton port in the Union, and is annually approaching the position of the first In 1822-23 her re ceipts were 105,261 bales; in 1843 she exported 285,754 bales; in 1868-69 her receipts were 363,013 bales; but last year, ending September i, 1885, her total receipts were 710,459 bales of upland cotton, and 19,543 bags of sea-island or long-staple cotton. She exportecl 19,083 bags of sea-island and 708,374 bales of upland cotton, of which latter 178,335 bales were sent to Liverpool The prices of both short and long staples were low, and the market was con sequently influenced, else the year's receipts

52

SOUTHWARD HO.'

would probably have reached to a million bales. As it was, the majority of planters made moneyr and the factors handled the fleecy product with so much profit to themselves, that the future is now radiant with hope. With still more economy on the part of the planter, and with less speculation on the part of the factor, the cotton crop will continue to increase the wealth of the State, and ultimately secure the supremacy of the beautiful city which borders on the sea.
The trade of Savannah in rice is consider able, the shipments last year having been 29,822 bushels of rough, and 58,042 barrels of clean grain. The receipts of naval stores for the same twelve months, ending August 31, 1885, were 111,447 casks of spirits of turpentine, and 452,370 barrels of rosin, or more than ten times the quantities received ten years ago. The lumber and timber trade is good ; the de mand last year was steady, with the rates of freight ruling low, and the present outlook is encouraging. Commercial fertilisers are manu factured and sold here on a large scale, 110,500 tons of guano having been distributed over the country from September i, 1884, to August 31, 1885. In brief, every branch of business in

SHIPPING AND COMMERCE.

53

Savannah is alive; the diligent citizens culti vate the tree in winter, and in summer sit down to enjoy the fruit. If any, hearing of this pros perity, desire to share it, be it known unto all men, that to industrious immigrants the key of the city is on the outside of the gate.

CHAPTER XII.-
CLIMATE AND HEALTH.
/HE climate of .Savannah, we think, after over seven years' residence there, is eminently healthful and delightful. In the words of Watts
regarding another land
" There everlasting spring abides, And never-withering flowers."
Or, in the language of Shakespeare, its " eternal summer doth not fade." There are certainly " cold snaps " enough to suit the most ice-loving taste. The past winter will long be remem bered on account of a frozen wave whose frigid embrace congealed the genial current of the warmest souL , With the mercury standing at twenty-two degrees below* the freezing-point, the January wind of 1886 was cold with a witness.

CLIMATE AND HEALTH.

55

Skating on the canal was a spectacle which had not been seen before in fifty years.
But the spring-time in Savannah, in March, April, and May, is a thing of beauty and a joy for ever. When the trees are arrayed in new leaves, with every tint of green; when, in Keble's phrase, the " common air is balm;" when the unclouded sky is of a translucent blue, and the bright sun suffuses the still atmosphere with its welcome warmth; then a walk from the Bay to the lovely Park, where the tall pines lend their shade, the flowers their colours, and the fountains their refreshment to enhance the sylvan scene, is a reminiscence of Paradise, a preconception of a better land.
The vital statistics of the city demonstrate its healthfulness beyond disproof. Especially among the white population, whose homes and habits are more consistent with hygiene, the death rate per annum is remarkably low. With prudence in dress, according to the season, and proper attention to diet, the inhabitant need not say, 'on account of the climate, " I am sick." It is true that sporadic cases of yellowfever occur after the excessive heat of some summers, and this disease more than once has been epidemic. But the fearful visitation

56

SOUTHWARD HO!

has never resulted from the insalubrity of the soil, nor from the inhospitality of the climate. When sanitary precautions have been neglected, and so a predisposing cause has been furnished, and an exciting cause has been superadded in a case of fever brought in through a breach of quarantine regulations, then, true to the laws of etiology, disease has spread among the people, and the dragon's teeth have produced their devouring crop. That such a plague is pre ventable no one should doubt. It had not ap peared for eighteen years before 1876, and has not appeared since.
The recollection of the last epidemic will be to Savannah an everlasting blessing if its lessons and warnings be laid to heart And can it ever be forgotten by those who drank of the bitter cup? The wounds are closed, but the scars are left It was a period of appalling eclipser a parenthesis of overwhelming gloom. For the angel of destruction spread his dark wings over the city, and disarmed the people with deep depression ere he smote them with the sword of bloodless slaughter. Without respect of persons, the indiscriminating spoiler wrought his relentless havoc. Old men were grudged their few remaining days, and strong

CLIMATE AND HEALTH.

57

men were mocked as they succumbed in helpless prostration. The beautiful maiden faded away as a moth caught in a candle, and the little babe lost even the pitiful power of a cry. The infidel was forced to feel a terrorism which no negation could dispel, and the faithful Christian was un
heard in his appeal for an exemption which no saintliness could ensure. The poor man was hot too inconsiderable for the notice of the dictator of kings, and the rich man entreated in vain for the respite of an hour. No goodness of heart, no gentleness of birth, no weight of intel lect, no height of station,, could avail to avert the omnivorous greed of the grave. Day and night for three mournful months the simoom of the fever withered and wasted us; and how any escaped with a breath to tell the tale is a mystery which succeeding years have left un solved. To and fro we went between the de populated city of the dying and the populous cemeteries of the dead, none of us knowing how soon theOast services we rendered for others might fc^^Mfc|ed for ourselves. The physician of lo-day/fes the patient of to morrow, and tne pastoryhom we saw visiting his dying sheep one week we laid away the next Decimated by the removal of hundreds

58

SOUTHWARD HO.'

of the fairest and strongest, wisest and purest, of her sons and brothers, Savannah wept as a widowed mother, and sobbed as a lonely orphan.
Afterwards the healer came and soothed this grief to sleep, but he could not restore the loved we had lost Sometimes still they appear to us in our dreams, and when we sigh at their return, we awake to a new bereavement in find ing them for ever gone. But our battle with death was not all; we had to shield the con valescent poor from hunger in their disconsolate homes Business was almost suspended; and in many cases, when the children cried for bread, had there been work and wages, the breadwinner was no more. Want fell upon the defenceless as an armed man. Deep called unto deep as the waves of woe went over the heads of a smitten and afflicted people.
But if, during this dreadful season, our days were in the yellow leaf with dismal reality, there were not wanting gleams of sunshine which transfigured those sere symbols into leaves of yellow gold. Eternal glory hangs its garlands over the graves where sleeping lie the heroes who fell in harness on the field of death.
We may mention one minister of the gospel

CLIMAT'E AND HEALTH.

59

of divine philanthropy, who was absent when the epidemic began, but who at once hastened home, and bravely went about like his Master doing good, " till a mortal arrow pierced his frame; he fell, but felt no fear." Also one physician, who was likewise away at the incep tion of the fever, and who came back in illhealth. When we ventured to regret that he should have returned in his impaired state, his answer was, '' My duty called me here." These Southern men had learned from their immortal Lee what Englishmen have learned from their immortal Nelson, that duty is the noblest word
in the English language, the kingliest principle in the truly English life. The " book of re membrance '' contains the two names which are copied here :

EDWARD H. MYERS, D.D., ' Died 26th of September 1876.

J URIAH HARRIS, M.D., Died 9th of November 1876.

These are but examples of many out of alt professions, all positions, and all creeds, who

60

SOUTHWARD HO .'

live because they died. Thank God for the fact that we thought little of Baptist or Episco palian, Catholic or Protestant, Jew or Gentile, male or female, black or white, in that crisis. We were all one in a fellowship of suffering, a fellowship of sympathy/a fellowship of common humanity, which we hold sacred still. Of those since dead, and of those now living, who risked their lives for others in that melancholy cam paign, nothing need be said save that their deeds are recorded on an imperishable page. The prompt and large-hearted liberality mani fested in the Northern States and across the seas, as well as in the sister communities of the South, will also live in flie gratitude of Savan nah's latest posterity.

CHAPTER XIII.
POPULATION.
HIS epidemic was a severe blow to Savannah. Not only by reason of the irreparable loss of over & thousand of the population, which
was nearly ten per cent of those who remained in the city, but also because of the serious in jury for a time to her reputation and trade. Her detractors seized the opportunity to stigma tise her as a " death-hole " surrounded by sickly swamps, and some insurance companies hesi tated to admit her citizens to life assurance on equal terms witty other towns. This has since been seen to be a mistake; for, in spite of sup posed disadvantages, the health of the place has been re-established, and the inhabitants have greatly increased. The population at present is not far from fifty thousand. The composition

62

SOC/77fHMR.D HO.'

of the community is made up of many ingre

dients.

There are, first of all, the descendants of the

original settlers, who consider themselves the

ittte, the 'crime d la crtme on the top. We are

not obliged to take them at their own valuation,

but this is how they are self-esteemed. We may

be aware that some of their ancestors were in

solvent debtors, who left their native country for

/

their own if not their country's good; and we

may have a strong antipathy to apish persons

who assume aristocratic airs ; but it is only just

to say that Savannah's sang bleu, or blue blood,

is of a really excellent quality.

-In the second place, there is the up-

country element, pleasantly called "the Georgia

crackers," which local term is said to have been

derived from the custom which the country

people had of " cracking" their whips when

they brought their produce to market The up-

~ country folk requite this epithet, in a good-

natured way, by styling the Savannah natives

"swell-heads."

Thirdly, there are the Northern people who,

" . especially since the civil war, have taken up

their abode in Savannah as Government offi

cials or for purposes of trade. These are the

POPULATION.

63

" Samaritans," and although the " Jews " have dealings with them, they love them none too well.
Fourthly, we find a goodly importation of foreigners, chiefly German and Irish, with a few English and Scotch, Spanish and French.
Fifthly, the Hebrews are a numerous and wealthy class of residents, who, like Hebrews everywhere, " dwell alone."
Finally, the coloured people of all shades are a separate society, though they number almost as many as the whites, in the ratio of about four to five. All of these somewhat hetero geneous constituents illustrate in miniature the motto of the nation, E pluribus utium; of many parts they form one whole, an aggregate of several crystals, consolidated by the cohesion of mutual interest, and cemented together by the intercessions of a common blood. We speak but the truth in saying that we would have to travel far to find a mixed people with more unanimity, exhibiting in their everyday life busier offices or brighter homes, friendlier hands or firmer hearts.

CHAPTER XIV.
THE COLOURED PEOPLE.
shall have something to say else where upon the relations between the white and black races through out the State. Here we may sim ply testify to the kindly feeling which we always found existing between them in Savannah. The coloured people are not treated there as equals. They are not treated as such in the North, nor would they be if they lived in London. It is easy to condemn others for doing what we would do ourselves in their circumstances, and what we perhaps do already under conditions which happen to be our own. When we in England have cast out the beam from our ecclesiastical and social eye; when we cease to treat a " Dissenter" as inferior to a " Church man," and a labourer, however intelligent, as

THE COLOURED PEOPLE.

65

incomparable with a. lord, however insane, then we may see clearly to pull out the mote from our Southern brother's eye, who recognises a distinction which is older than creed, and deeper than the badge of mere titled nobility. But if the races are not equal in Savannah, they are assuredly harmonious, sharing the rewards of their co-operative industry. In numberless cases, the former slaves, free and yet bound by love and gratitude, are living with their former owners, and, though the old relations of masters and servants are abolished, the faithful depen dants could no sooner be induced to abandon their kind employers than could the Hebrew slave, who said, " I love my master; I will not go out free," and whose ear was bored through with an awl, in token of his perpetual servitude.
A good story is told of an old Savannah slave in ante bellum days, who thought he would like to be his own owner. But his honesty led him to feel that what had been paid for when gained should be received for when lost. He there fore proposed to buy himself out of bondage. His master cheerfully consented, asking him how much he thought he was worth. He replied, " Well, mawsa, that depens. If I had to sell myself, I'd Want about two thousand
E

66

SOUTHWARD HO 1

dollars; but if I'se going to buy myself, I reckon about a hundred and fifty might pay de bill" The price was accepted, and the old man was free. Some time after he was crossing the river with another freedman, who was drowned; he at once repaired to his master, exclaiming, "I guess I'll sell myself again, mawsa; for dis nigger property am mighty unsartin."

CHAPTER XV.
EDUCATION.
N 1866 an Act passed the Senate and House of Representatives of the State of Georgia establishing the "Board of Public Education for
the City of Savannah," whose design and pur pose were to be the direction, management, and Superintendence of the public education of white children in the said city between the ages of six and eighteen years. In pursuance of this Act, buildings and grounds were placed in the pos session of the Board, and arrangements made for the provision of funds. The schools thus founded have been continued to this day with growing efficiency. "
In 1878 the charter was'1 amended so as to read, "the public education of all children, including coloured children, or children of

68

SOUTHWARD HO I

African descent." To show how ready the authorities are to supply the needs of the negro population, we are told that "earnest petitions on the part of the coloured people induced the Board, at a large expense, to erect a neat and commodious school building at the corner of Gaston and East Broad Streets, with a seating capacity of five hundred. Teachers were employed, and the school was at once established."
In 1884 the rising generation of Savannah included 7745 children between the ages of six and eighteen. Many of these attended private academies, while 3163 were enrolled in the public schools, receiving gratuitously the rudi ments of a useful education. "Our school rooms," says the superintendent, " are generally large and well ventilated;" and we are able to add, after personal inspection, the lessons given in them are well taught and generally well learned. The public schools of Savannah differ in one particular from the Board schools of England. Whereas we "at home" send only the children of the lower classes to these public institutions, the people of Savannah in
all stations avail themselves of the advantages which their public schools afford. The child whose father is mayor of the city may sit at the

EDUCATION.

69

same desk with the child whose father is a city constable, and the son of a rich merchant is not ashamed to compete in an examination
with the son of a poor mechanic. The effect is to encourage and elevate scholars of inferior social status, and to stimulate to mental energy scholars who through easy circumstances might become indolent and vain.
The curriculum of the system of public education in Savannah requires seven or eight years to complete the course in the grammarschools, where reading, writing, spelling, geo graphy, arithmetic, and English grammar or language lessons, are the prescribed studies.
At the end of this period, those who desire further instruction are admitted into the high schools, where a more extended course is pro vided. The number of those who embrace such
opportunity is increasing every year. Graduates of these high schools are among the brightest and fairest of Savannah's useful and ornamental society. In concluding his nineteenth annual re port, the superintendent congratulates the Board on the continued prosperity of the schools under their charge. Such congratulation is fit, for the
future welfare of the city is bound up with the early development of its native youth.

CHAPTER XVI.
RELIGION.

RELIGIOUS life in Savannah is very much what it is in other places. Several church edifices represent half as many different denomina
tions, and several congregations meet in them to rehearse and propagate their diverse beliefs. Baptists, Episcopalians, Lutherans, Methodists, Presbyterians, and Roman Catholics maintain, each in their own way, the doctrines of Chris tianity ; and Hebrews adhere, sorrie with more, others with less rigidity, to th ancient laws of Mosaism. The largest structure is the Roman Catholic cathedral; the finest is the Indepen dent Presbyterian Church; the oldest is Christ Church,, which stands upon the spot where John Wesley, then a High Churchman, and George
t

RELIGION.

71

Whitefield, then a Low Churchman, preached to the colonists a century and a half ago. The Jewish Synagogue attracts some attention on account of its cruciform plan; and St John's Episcopal Church is noted, specially by visitors, for its tuneful peal of bells. Trinity Methodist Church had as its minister the only Protestant pastor who fell during the yellow-fever scourge in 1876; and the Baptist Church, out of a score of pastors, has never lost one by death throughout its entire history of nearly ninety years.
The coloured people, who are mostly Baptists or Methodists, have their own houses of worship, support their own ministers, and conduct their own ecclesiastical affairs. Some of their pastors are men of considerable ability and attainments; others, and these of course are to be found chiefly among the older preachers, are lament ably ignorant But the least enlightened often possess a natural eloquence which proves much more effective than argument would be in deal ing with the emotional hearers whom they have to address.
As an illustration of this the following address may be given. It was delivered by a coloured minister at the annual meeting of the African

72

SOUTHWARD HO f

Baptist Convention of Georgia, held in Cartersville last year.

" WELCOME ADDRESS. " CARTEKSVILLE, GA., May sr, 1885.
" Mr. PRESIDEXT and MEMBERS of the STATE BAPTIST COXVEVTIOX
"It affords me inexpressible pleasure to have the welcoming you to our little city; and should I, as I apprehend, be unable to say anything worthy of your notice, I shall not attempt sup plying the deficiency by rhetorical garlands of eloquence, borrowed from some other orator, which please only the superficial, and, though sometimes indulged, are renounced by the more intelligent and discriminating. But allow me, in behalf of the citizens of Cartersville, to ex tend to you a hearty and cordial welcome to our city.
" No little pains have we spared to do that which has ever been our delight to do for our sister cities and adjacent counties .when as sembled in our rhidsL Then with glad hearts and outstretched hands we bid you welcome to our mountain city, in whose valleys and upon .her hills wkh hallowed memories reside a peo ple who are first taught to practise reverence,

RELIGION.

73

%
submission, love, and gratitude to God; secondly,

justice, truth, and benevolence to all mankind ;

and to-day we would have you feel that you

have not assembled among strangers, but among

a class of people who are ever found ready and

willing to receive such guests, whose hearts swell

with one accord in promoting and emulating

the cause of Christianity and education and sub

duing of ignorance.

"If there is anything on earth which angels

contemplate with pleased satisfaction, it is the

grand enterprise in which you are engaged.

Then with united voices and sympathetic hearts,

ever be found defending the cause with your

latest breath, which, no doubt, has already'ac

complished much, and is destined to accom

plish more, and, while qualifying yourselves to

meet your profession more successfully, be of

good cheer, having the motto ' Aiming higher'

as your guide. And when your labours on

earth shall have ended, upon the annals of our

country's greatness your name will be enrolled,

there to shine with undying lustre there to be

seen by generations yet unborn- there to stand

as monuments of your deeds. While empires

fall and crumble, great statesmen, heroes, and

orators, though once noted for their fame, lie

74

SOUTHWARD HO !

unnoticed beneath the cold and silent sod. Then those among you who may mourn the want of talent and inability to accomplish some great end, take fresh courage, knowing perseverance conquers all things. Do this and you will be successful. Though you be ignored and not distinguished for brilliant acquirements, though the petit hands of the sinful seek to quell your progress, though listening Senate and crowded assemblies have the audacity to banter the eloquence of your tongue, stand all the more firm, feeling that the same sunlight that illu mined their pathway to success illumines yours, and rejoice to know that you can soothe the minds that long to learn the road from earth to heaven, the city not made with hammers and nails, but eternally in the heavens. Therefore your vocation is an exalted one. And for no other purpose, no doubt, hare jrou organised, only to instil and inlbse the necessity of reli gion and education in the minds and hearts of the sons and daughters of Ham. If this be your purpose, your labour on earth will be accept able, and in God's bright jewelled ledgers be recorded in characters imperishable as eternity.
" We then bid you God-speed to go onward with this grand and noble work in which you

RELIGION.

75

are engaged, and for this cause we again bid you welcome with hearts as fresh as the atmos phere of our loved city, and with minds clear as
its sky. No effort, no motion, which a refined and grateful heart could suggest has been spared to make you happy, or to evince to you our readiness to supply your wishes and wants while in our midst. Then consider your posi tion as ministers of the gospel, a divine ap pointment from heaven's King, who said to
His Apostles, 'Go preach my gospel to every nation : he that believeth and is baptized shall be saved." Your Convention has a mission. Yes, the Georgia Baptist Convention's mission will, in the future, throw a flood of noonday effulgence, religion, and the science of educa tion, such as Georgia annals furnish no par allel Then the prerogative for which you meet will leave behind you 'footprints on the sand.s of time,' which the tempestuous gale of the world's commotion can never blot out. In conclusion, we invoke the blessings of that. Divine guidance by whom the destiny of all mankind is shaped to crown your efforts and proceedings with success.
" Unfortunately, we cannot invite you to a city as prosperous as some of your own, with fac-

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lories seen as monuments of industry, and with fashionable streets grandly paved, and whose academies and universities are diffusing in telligence to an unparalleled extent, and term after term qualifying members for the higher professions of life, and beneath the dome of her magnificent churches, where elegance meets the eye and admiration fills the heart, as the pealing notes of the full-toned organ seem borrowed from angel harps. I say, none of these attractive scenes can we boast of, but we do heartily welcome you to the homes of a people hospitable in their nature, a people upon whose soil the red man of the forest, the dusky sons of the tropics, yea, all may come and freely erect their homes and institutions, the home of those ever on the alert for the path of honour, truth, and right Yes, a. thousand times welcome to the homes of a people whose hearts shall for ever beat and say, 'Roll on the great Missionary Baptist wheel which Christ Himself pat in motion.'
" Brethren, don't be discouraged nor dis mayed, because Christ regardeth His cause. Influences may combine to do away with the great missionary Baptist principles, but it will survive the shocks of time.

RELIGION.

77

"The Lord bless thee, and keep thee: the Lord make His face to shine upon thee, and be gracious unto thee. Amen."
Strange things are heard at times when the coloured people are gathered together for "preachin'." One sable divine in South western Georgia began a sermon with the an nouncement, " I shall take my text dis mornin' from dat portion of de Scripture in which Paul pints his pistol at de 'Phesians." The good man knew nothing of an epistle, but he had handled a. pistol, and supposed the Apostle had used that sort of weapon in making the Ephesians his aim. The usual effect of un cultivated sentimentalism is too often apparent among the dusky fraternity; they cultivate pious feeling at the expense of pure conduct. Right eousness is less esteemed than religiousness, and no violation of moral law is allowed to intercept the observance of devotion.
As a coloured brother said, who had stolen a goose during the week, and yet went to com munion on Sunday, "Do you s'pose I'd give up my blessed Lord for de sake of an old goose?" The fact is, the word "stealing" is not always found in the negro's vocabulary. He knows the deed under another name. His

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piety perhaps has given it a hallowed hue. One fellow wittily said, "If I ask de Lord to send me chicken, dey don't come; but if I ask Him to send me after dem, den my prayer is heard." Some may see here but an African version of the good old adage, " God helps those who help themselves." Possibly it is; but if carried too far, it might make praying men holy rogues, and pervert the means of grace into means of -///grace into masks of hypocrisy which all honest men would rend to pieces. It is a dangerous theology which talks of " mere morality."

CHAPTER XVII.
BETHESDA.
UT religion in Savannah is not all nerve substance ; it has blood and bone, heart and hand. American piety generally is pre-eminently
practical, justifying itself, as James says, by works, and not by faith only. In the erec tion and elegant embellishment of handsome churches, in the liberal support of worthy ministers, in generous contributions to missions, Sunday-schools, and educational institutions, in bountiful ministration to all who are "any ways afflicted or distressed in mind, body, or estate," American faith and charity bear abun dant fruit
As evidence of this in Savannah, we point with peculiar pleasure to the Bethesda Orphan Home for fatherless boys and the Female

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Orphan Asylum for fatherless girls. When George Whitefield arrived in.Savannah in 1738, he began his labours with a congregation ot seventeen adults and twenty-five children. Shortly afterwards he, as he tells us, " inquired into the state of the children, and found there were many who might prove useful members of the colony if there was a proper place for their maintenance and education. Nothing can effect this but an orphan-house, which might easily be erected if some of those who are rich in this world's goods would contribute towards it" And when he had been employed in his colonial field but about five weeks he wrote, " I have a pretty little family. I expound the catechism at seven in the evening every Sunday. What I have most at heart is the building an orphan-house, which I trust will be effected at my return to England In the meantime I am settling little schools in and about Savannah, that the rising generation may be bred up in the "nurture and admonition of the Lord." This looks very much like the establishment of Sunday-schools in Savannah by George Whitefield of Gloucester, forty-two years before Robert Raikes, that other Glouces ter philanthropist, began them in his native

BETHESDA.

Si

town, and when Raikes himself was but three years old.
In 1739 Whitefield was in London, accepting from the trustees of Georgia 500 acres of land for his intended orphan-house. In a few months he was back again in Georgia, the richer for the contributions which he had collected in England for his beloved enterprise. In 1740 he writes, " About the month of March I began the great house, having only about .150 in cash. I called it Bethesda, because I hoped it would be a house bf mercy to many souls." We also find in his diary, " Near forty children are now under my care, and near a hundred mouths are daily supplied with food." Thus the foundation of Savannah's noblest charity was laid, and the founder went abroad gather ing means for its maintenance. As he tells us, " it compelled him to travel and inspired him to preach." In 1742 it was subjected to severe trials, but, in Whitefield's language, " the orphanhouse, like the burning bush, flourished unconsumed." He professed that he would "be sold a slave to serve the galleys rather than his orphan family should want."
In 1746 he was once more in Bethesda, superintending its affairs, submitting his ac-
F

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counts to official audit, and saying, " Georgia is very healthy; not above one, and that a little child, has died out of our family since it re moved to Bethesda." In 1754 he wrote, " The Bethesda family now consists of above a hun dred. He who fed the multitude in the wilder ness can and will feed the orphans in Georgia." In 1769 he made his thirteenth and last voyage across the Atlantic, and wrote from Savannah, "Bethesda is like to blossom as the rose." It has blossomed to this day.
In 1770 Whitefield entered into rest. He bequeathed the orphanage to the care of that elect lady, the Countess of Huntingdon, who sent over her own housekeeper to conduct its domestic concerns. But her plans for its welfare were all frustrated through its sudden destruc tion by lightning. The institution declined in great measure after this sore affliction, but revived again, till the building was impaired by a dreadful fire in 1805, when the property was sold. But Bethesda blossomed still; for though the temporal house might perish, the eter nal mercy would be renewed day by day. Fiftyfive years before this disaster, ir. 1750, a little company of Scotch immigrants had formed the " Union Society," whose leading object was the

1

BETHESDA.

83

entertainment and education of orphan children in necessitous circumstances. And now, when Bethesda was consumed, the Society took the homeless children into its custody and carried on the benevolent work until 1854, when it purchased 125 acres of the ancient Bethesda estate, including the original locality of Whitefield's orphanage, and built a suitable house, to which in January 1855 the children under its charge were removed. More recently a noble brick building has been erected, which still receives under its fostering care the orphans who, in Edward Irving*s thrilling words, are "thrown upon the fatherhood of God."
Thus this blessed benefaction, founded by Whitefield, whose heart was its corner-stone, is the permanent pride of Savannah; not from any romantic attachment to the memory of the past, but because in the living present the people have the privilege of showing kindness to the needy in the name of Him in whom the father less find mercy. The 23d of April is a festive day in the Savannah calendar, not because it id the birthday of the greatest of English dramatists, but because it is the anniversary of Bethesda, when crowds repair to the spot where Whitefield

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with his own hands laid the foundation of the house of mercy, and because on that day they can share in a charity which ever abides, though prophecy and tongues, nay, though heaven and earth, may pass away.
Up to the year 1801 no distinction was made between male and female orphans, but in that year it was thought desirable to divide the sexes. Consequently the Female Asylum was established, and Berhesda was restricted to orphan boys. When we visited the institution this year, in company with the president, he directed our attention to an incident of some little interest At a meeting of the Board of Managers held April 3, 1817, it was resolved " that the president be authorised to place with Mrs. Christie two more boys in place of Anthony Suares and William Durasseau, who were to be bound to F. S. Fell to learn the printing busi ness. The Board were of opinion that the printing business was not of sufficient import ance to bind any of the boys of this institution to, therefore resolved that the president be directed to withhold the binding of said boys to that business, and that Mr. John Hunter be requested to apply to some respectable car penter, bricklayer, or some other mechanic, to

BETHESDA.

85

place such of our boys who may be educated sufficiently to be bound out."
But from the President's report on the 23d of April 1834 we learn that "Mr. A. A. Suares, now of Louisiana, but formerly a pupil of this Society, on a visit to this city last year, presented a donation of $500 in aid of your funds. No circumstance could be more creditable to the institution or more honourable to the bene ficiary. In his prosperity he has not forgotten the institution from which he received the education which was the basis of his fortune." So the printing business, which was " not of sufficient importance to bind any of the boys to," and was classed far below a " respectable carpenter, bricklayer, or some other mechanic," had yielded a donation of $500 in aid of the funds. What gave special piquancy to the story on the occasion of our visit was the fact that the present president of the Union Society was a printer, and the proprietor of the Savan nah Morning Aews, a journal which has no superior in the newspaper press of the State.
Savannah has some creditable monuments; for example, one to Pulaski, who fell at the siege of the city in 1779, and another to the Confederate dead. It also boasts two beautiful

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1
cemeteries, one called Laurel Grove, the other at Bonaventure, four miles from town. If we could choose our last resting-place, we would wish to
lie in the latter, where the grey moss drapes the

evergreen oaks, and the stillness of the air is deepened by the silent river, which glides by in its symbolic passage to the incomprehensible and insatiable sea.

CHAPTER XVII I.
THE STATE.
D now it is time that we enlarge the scope of our vision, and, leav ing the city, go farther afield Georgia is a great State. It is one of the largest, oldest, richest, and best of the sections of the Sunny South. It appears on the map as a kind of keystone in the grand arch of the Atlantic and Gulf States. Its situation is between the soth and 35th parallels of north latitude, and between the 8ist and 86th paral lels of west longitude Its boundaries are Ten nessee and North Carolina on the north, South Carolina and the Atlantic Ocean on the east, Alabama on the west, and Florida on the south. Its greatest length, from north to south, is about 320 miles; and its greatest breadth, from east to west, about 254 miles. Its entire

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area is 58,980 square miles, or 8000 square

miles larger than England without Wales, and

only 1578 miles less than half the area of

Great Britain and Ireland. Its latitude is the

same as Persia and Palestine, and its climate is

isothermal with Italy and Greece.

Though still sparsely .peopled in some dis

tricts, Georgia has greatly augmented' her

population during the past hundred years.

In 1785 the State consisted of ten countiesr

having about 80,000 inhabitants. The census

of 1790 reported 52,886 whites and 29,662

coloured; total population, 82,548. But the

last census, taken in 1880, showed 816,906

whites and 725,274 coloured ; total, 1,542,180.

At the present time the 137 counties contain

very few short of two millions. No State in the

Union has a greater diversity of soil, climate,

resources, and productions ; no State has

fairer prospects of future wealth and abun

dance ; and no reason exists why in a few de

cades this fertile region should not have ten

millions where now there are two. Let us go

forth to view the land.

.^

CHAPTER XIX.
THE CENTRAL RAILROAD.
agency is of greater importance in the development of a new country than a good system of railways, on which regular, frequent, safe, and cheap trains for transport of freight and passen gers are run every day. And this demand is fully met in Georgia. The Central Railroad is the medial channel of the State, through which the mineral, vegetable, animal, and human current is carried between Savannah, the terminus, and Macon, Atlanta, Augusta, Albany, Columbus, and intermediate points. Its headquarters in the city by the sea are conveniently situated and suitably commodious. Its steel lines are well laid, its engines and cars well made. Some idea of this concatenation of commercial links may be formed from knowing that the Central

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Railroad and its leased lines extend over 1836 miles. The company, chartered in 1835, owns 57 locomotives and 2024 cars of all sorts, 129 of which are for passengers. The total earn ings of the road in 1884 were $3,212,775. This amount represents a business of which Georgians may justly boast.
The accommodation for passengers, like the American train service in general, is excellent. Old England is proverbially old-fashioned, and not seldom " the old is better ;" but an English traveller on an American train is compelled to concede, unless purblind by prejudice, that the younger-country is wiser than the older in many of its works and ways. Here we are now, riding in a comfortable car which seats about fifty pas sengers, two on a seat, all looking towards the locomotive. And what one thing do we lack? The seats are reversible, so that a family or friendly party of four may journey face to face, sometimes with a table and a pack of cards or bundle of tracts between them. If the weather be cold and it is cold sometimes we need not shiver and shake, as we do across the water, in ulsters and furs, shawls and rugs : we are solaced with a liberal fire. If the weather be warm and it is warm sometimes we need not be

THE CENTRAL RAILROAD.

gi

dried up with thirst: we are provided with iced water ad libitum. If the society in our vici nity be disagreeable, we are not compelled to savagely grin and bear it: we are free to remove to another seat, an open passage running from end to end of the car. If we choose to smoke at one time, and enjoy the company of the ladies at another, we can pass at pleasure, while the train is at full speed, and without the slightest peril, to a smoking compartment and return. If we have any complaint to make, in stead of waiting in agony till we stop, or having to pull some mysterious bell rope, we may in form the conductor at once. And if we need some other conveniences which at times are indispensable, we need not suffer nor run a risk of losing our train, but find them within easy reach. The daily papers and the fruits of the season may also be purchased in transitu. It is admitted that the newsboy is occasionally a bore, and the frequent opening of doors is A causative of cold in the head or heat in the * temper, but these vulgar fractions make a small sum. Our English carriages are more select, more private, and afford a large number of pas sengers quicker egress, by means of their manydoors ; but on most accounts they must be con-

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sidered far behind the comfortable cars on the western side of the international sea. Old England will be rejuvenated enough some day to make a change: in fact, the changes have already begun.
One of our first stopping-places is Eden, where we alight for a moment to look round for indications of Paradise. We loot in vain. A traveller from New York once came to a Southern station, and seeing only a few sheds, inquired the name of the place. Being told, he further asked, " How big is it ?" The con ductor replied, " It is as big as New York, but it isn't built up yet" So we believe respecting Eden: it is as extensive, perhaps as productive, as Paradise, but it is not perfect yet.
Another halt is made at Egypt; and we have half a suspicion that those cotton-bales on the platform are Egyptian mummies. Yet that can not be, for this is not the land of the dead, but of the living. All along the line we see signs of industry, though we see here, what we observe everywhere throughout the State, vast tracts of waste land which wait the Adam who will till the soil But let no one pass judg ment on Georgia from simply viewing the first hundred miies of the Central Railroad, which

THE CENTRAL RAILROAD.

93

run along the low valley of the Ogeechee river. It is obvious that a level bed for the sleepers is economical in saving the grades. Further in land the ground is high and dry enough for all kinds of produce, and for the healthy homes of all sorts and conditions of men.
At Millen and elsewhere we find artesian wells, from three to eight hundred feet in depth, sending up a constant supply of cool, wholesome, and beneficial water. At every station, that is to say about every five miles, we mark the ubiquitous negro. "God's image carved in ebony," was Dr. Thomas Guthrie's euphemism. The Doctor must have seen some very select specimens. But we believe that the sample has been known to be of finer grade than the bulk, in men as well as in cotton. The elo quent divine would no doubt have phrased the white man, " God's image carved in ivory." And yet that "Georgia cracker" yonder, with the shapeless hat and hanging garments, that lounger with his hands buried in his nether pockets, his jaws munching the tobacco plant, and his skin cracking through a scarcity of emollient soap and water, would hardly be taken as a type of his noble race. God's Image carved in ivory or ebony is an exalted concep-

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tion, but we fear that at present it is this and nothing more. One thing, however, is indis putable: "An honest man's the noblest work of God," whatever his colour or clothing, his class or creed.

CHAPTER XX.
THE LAXD AND THE CROPS.
HILE on the train, we were intro duced to a Georgia planter of many years' experience, whom we found, like all Georgians, unre
served, and ready to receive a. stranger without taking him in. Our new acquaintance in formed us that there was one beauty about the crops of Georgia they never altogether failed. Some years were, of course, better than others ; but they knew nothing of utter loss. The ave rage yield of cotton in the State, he thought, was about one bale to three acres. A hundred acres might produce fifty bales, or even double that number with increased cultivation. -One man whom he knew had produced twenty bales on thirty-five acres, with only one horse. With two horses, ploughing the soil deep, and not

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merely scratching it on the surface, more would have been obtained. All that the land needed was people willing to work; for if properly cul tivated by all hands labouring on it, its supply would be so ample, that it might actually be left without culture the second year. We have lands, he remarked, of all kinds ; low-lands for rice, pine-lands, which are healthy and covered with timber high-lands which produce the finest wheat and other cereals and the moun tain-lands, which are full of coal, iron, marble, and gold. British farmers with British gold would be a great blessing to the country; but not British farm labourers^ at present, for the coloured labour is best.
We learned elsewhere, in fact everywhere^ that the lands of Georgia are good and cheap. Parcels of land may be had of any size, and much of it may be bought at from one to five dollars an acre. Since the war the people of the State have been too poor to cultivate large plantations. The abolition of slavery took from many of them the whole of their property. Be fore the war the farmers were rich in negroes, many of them owning 100 or 150 slaves, valued at 100,000 or 150,000 dollars. Then they could work extensive tracts of land, which

THE LAND AND THE CROTS.

97

now lie neglected through lack of means to pay for the tillage. Money is also needed for the purchase and production of more stock, so that the soil may be enriched by the best kind of manure. Commercial fertilisers, which are being manufactured and employed on an immense scale, are good substitutes, but natural fertilisation is much the best
A few figures may be given as proof of Georgia's progress in agricultural pur suits. Its most valuable crop is cotton, a fibre which in 1785 had not made its appearance on the arena of the world's industry, but whose fabrics now form the greater part of human array. The ripe seeds of the cotton plant are enveloped in a mass of woolly hair of snoy whiteness ; and
so minute are the fibres, that it has been calcu lated that in American cotton there are no less than 140,000,000 of filaments in a single
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pound In the production of sea-island cotton, or the long-twisted staple, Georgia claims almost the monopoly ; in upland cotton she ranks third State of the Union, only Texas and Mississippi being ahead. In 185 o the crop of this one State was 500,000 bales. Now its yield is between 800,000 and 900,000. Soon it will be a million, for every year additions are made to the cotton area. In rice Georgia is second, the lead being taken by South Carolina. The following table needs no comment:

Georgia's Cereal Crops.

In 1870 rice produced . In 1880 In 1870 Indian-corn In tSSo In 1870 wheat In 1880 ,, In 1870 oats In 1880 In 1870 rye In 1880 In 1870 barley In iS8o ,,. In 1870 buckwheat In 1880

22,250,000 pounds. 25,330,000
17,646,459 bushels. 23,202,618 2,127,017 3,159,871
1,904,601
5,548,743 82,549 101,759 5.64 19,396 402
2,439

The corn crop of 1880 was produced on 2,538,733 acres, which gave an average of a little more than 9 bushels to the acre; the

THE LAND AND THE CROPS.

9.9

wheat on 475,684 acres, or an average per acre of over 6J bushels ; and the oats on 612,778 acres, an average of over 9 bushels to the acre. The rice production ranges from 25 to 75 bushels per acre. Cases are on record of an acre of Georgia soil yielding 119 bushels of corn, 137 bushels of oats, 40 bushels of wheat, and 100 bushels of rice.
It does seem a thousand pities that intelligent and industrious farmers in England should be cultivating and improving the soil which, with the iniquitous laws of land-tenure in existence, can never be their own, that these hard-working men should be struggling to pay exorbitant rents for the support of arrogant and arbitrary landlords, many of whom waste in extravagant idleness the money which their tenants earn, while if these same farmers would carry their small capital across the Atlantic, they might there buy rich lands which would be their own property, on which they might establish their own homesteads, and enjoy the full reward of their own patient husbandry. Such an emi gration, if at all numerous, would not only benefit the new country; it would also confer a reflex blessing on Britain itself by bringing into prominence the flagrant injustice in the

L OF C.

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land system, which is a standing disgrace to British civilisation.
The Quarterly Rrciew of London, July 1883, in an article on modern farming, says, " It would be absurd to expect that, with our rapidly increasing population, England can feed her people. She must be more or less depen dent on the foreigner." This may be pleasant news for the foreigner, but very painful for ' the English producer, especially if he reflects that with a few alterations England could go a long way farther than she does towards feed ing her increasing multitudes. In the United Kingdom there are 76.650,218 acres, of which 47,840,977 acres were under cultivation in 1884. Of the remainder, eleven millions of acres of cultivable land were producing nothing. And yet millions of tons of foreign food are being imported, and thousands of able men are unemployed. Why not utilise the eleven millions of waste acres, and so employ the idie, render less indispensable the foreigner, and give the.people home-made bread ?
But something e'se <; is rotten in the state of Denmark." Of the vast majority of the British people we may say what Tiberius Gracchus said of the Romans, "They are called the masters

THE LAND AND THE CROPS.

lot

of the world, but there is no clod of earth they can call their own." Nearly one-half of the United Kingdom is owned by about twenty-two hundred individuals out of a total population of over thirty-five millions. Twenty persons proudly possess estates exceeding five millions of acres, and two millions of acres are lorded over by but five men. These owners have their so-called "rights." They can evict their tenants at will; they can raise the rents when the land is made more valuable; they can appropriate to themselves the results of the labour and expenditure of enterprising occupants ; and, as a crowning "right," out of their annual rental of over two hundred million pounds they are privileged to pay a paltry land-tax of about a half per cent. For though the land is supposed to pay four shillings in the pound as rental to the State, which would be forty millions per annum, it actually pays but a little over one million. Verily the landlords are the lazy lions which devour the meat, and the farmers are the provi dent jackals which pick the bones.
When primogeniture and entail are blotted out of the statute book, and the abominable game laws are repealed, when the dead hand can no longer oppress the living heart, and free-

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hold soil can be transferred as easily and cheaply as any other sort of property; when lands are fairly portioned, and those who sow are also those who reap; then England will be more competent to feed her increasing people; agricul tural discontent and distress will be diminished, if not abolished; the land will double its in crease, and with less foreign flour there will be more abundance of bread. Meanwhile the field of humanity is the world, and no portion of the earth's surface is more inviting to the cultivator than the fertile soil of Georgia.

CHAPTER XXI. .
THE CENTRAL CITY.
^HILE we have been talking and writing, the train has arrived in Macon, the " Central City " of the State. It is a custom in this new
country to give the rising race of towns second names. Savannah is the Forest City, Atlanta the Gate City, as Philadelphia up North is the Quaker City, New Orleans down South the Crescent City ; and so on ad infinitum. In Macon we meet with good hotels for exam ple, the " Brown House " pleasant residences, very excellent colleges, and very worthy citi zens. Some of the streets are wide enough for rows of houses to divide them lengthwise in the midst. The population, numbering about 13,060, are flourishing in that natural growth which is sure because slow. The Spanish

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navigator Hemandez de Soto discovered the Ocraulgee river, which rolls by the city, in March 1540. Macon was incorporated in 1824. In 1825, when the Marquis de La Fayette came hither, it had a population of 700.

CHAPTER XXII.
COLLEGES.
possesses two collegiate in stitutions which would bring honour to any city. These are Mercer University and the Wesleyan Female College. As woman is said to have been the first in transgression, we willingly yield her the precedence and begin with the Female College. This establishment was char tered by the Legislature of Georgia in 1^36, and opened in January 1839. It claims the distinction of being the oldest college in the world for graduating and granting diplomas to female aspirants for academic pre-eminence. It is under the fostering oversight of the Georgia Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church. At the same time, its aim is to inculcate pure religion by precept and example, without insist-

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ing upon the enunciation of any party shib boleth.
Like other similar institutions when new, it at first encountered many adversaries. One gentleman of large means said, "I will not give you a dollar. All that a woman needs to know is how to read the New Testament, and to spin and weave clothing for her family." Another said, " I will not give you a cent for any such object. I would not have one of your graduates for a wife, for I could never build even a pig-pen without her criticising it and saying that it was not put up on mathematical principles." But it has outlived opposition, and the annual catalogue of former pupils shows that there is no lack of husbands for educated women, the young ladies changing their names before they have left the college long. Its alumnae are some of the most in telligent ladies of the land.
The buildings, thanks to the munificent donors, are most elegant. The main collegiate building is 246 feet long and 85 feet deep. It is five storeys high, including a mansard roof, and is surrounded by ample colonnades, two of which extend the whole length of the rear. .Everything is done that could promote the

WESLEYAN FEMALE COLLEGE, MACON.

COLLEGES.

109

comfort and health of the inmates. In a separate but adjacent building are the chapel and recitation rooms; the library is well stocked with books, magazines, and newspapers, and the grounds about the place are attractive and quiet. During inclement weather the pupils have the advantage of exercise in a spacious gymnasium.
Over a thousand young ladies have been graduated in this excellent institution. The largest number of undergraduates in the college for any one year was 295, during the academic year of 1884-85. Though fifty years old, it renews its youth every year; like the orange tree, retaining its fruit and bearing its blossoms, it improves with age.
Mercer University is not far off. Some of the young men could perhaps tell how far to a step, for it is said that students have been seen in the vicinity of the college. This university began its career in the year 1838, in the village of Penfield. Its first name, when it was but a child, was Mercer Institute, after the name of its father or founder, Jesse Mercer. It grew in influence as it grew in years, until it became one of the most efficient educators of the South. In 1871 it was removed to Macon, the city

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donating $125,000 in bonds for the erection of a suitable building. The stately edifice stands on a broad and healthy eminence, where malaria is unknown. The property is esti mated at $300,000. The fine structure, which attracts and pleases every eye, contains good recitation and lecture rooms, rooms for appara tus, cabinets and libraries, and a suite of apart ments for the president.
Like the Female College, it is denomina tional in its management, being governed by the Georgia Baptist Convention, which elects the Board of Trustees, by whom the faculty are appointed and the financial and general affairs controlled. The predominating desire of its originators was to afford a liberal education, on a distinctly moral and religious basis, to the young men of the State, and to furnish intel lectual and theological training to candidates for the Christian ministry. The professors have all been Christian men, loyal to the prin ciples and practices of the Scripture faith. The morale of the students is high, the president being able to assure us that during his adminis tration of fourteen years there had been no case of public misconduct on the part of a student known in the town.

MERCER UNIVERSITY, MACON.

COLLEGES.

113

The University comprises the College of Liberal Arts, classical and scientific, the de
partment of Theology, and the School of Law. Applicants for matriculation must be at least fourteen years of age, and of good character. Many of the former students are now distin guished members of the learned professions, or are occupying the halls of the Legislature and the seats of state. Its instruction has contri buted immensely to the energy and elevation of the great Baptist body in Georgia, by whom it is sustained. The Rev, Dr. Battle, its cour teous president, is a gentleman of rare refine ment and culture. Dr. Sanford, its professor of pure mathematics, who has a 'national reputation, has occupied his chair from the organisation of the University, a period of fortyeight years. Professor Willet has served the institution forty years as teacher of physical science. A university which retains the ser vices of such men so long and the other members of the faculty are worthy compeers is entitled to the admiration of the friends of culture at home and abroad.

H

CHAPTER XXIII.
GRIFFIX.
we travel from Macon towards At lanta, we find that the elevation and character of the soil, with the temperature of the atmosphere, have greatly changed. In Griffin, for example, which is 1150 feet above the level of the sea, no outdoor work need be suspended on ac count of cold or heat, for in winter and summer the climate is equable and invigorating. The land is so fertile that it will yield as great a variety of agricultural and horticultural products as may be raised in any section of the South. Here, too, as in other towns, is a cotton-factory, completed in 1884, at a cost of $100,000. An iron-foundry has also been established, and the enterprising inhabitants have many irons in the fire.

GRIFFIN.

* MS

Whilst we are in Griffin, we go, as we are wont, to the cemetery. It always compensates our lamentation over the faults of the living to know that the dead were so good, such irre proachable wives and husbands, such doting parents and dutiful children. We never yet found one sinner mentioned on the tablets of necrology, for the dear departed were all saints.
In the Griffin cemetery we come across a long row of ten gravestones which excite unusual emotions. One poor man has buried here five wives and five children. The larger stones to the wives, and the smaller to the babes, alter nate with pathetic regularity. The last stone to the last lost child bears the suggestive in scription, "Little Hope." We are informed that wife No.- 6 is buried in a neighbouring town. The much-widowed husband is doubt less afraid of exciting too deeply the sympathy of the people here. He is seeking, if he has not found, wife No. 7, to whom he may tell the sad tale of his six troubles. Poor man! whose husband shall he be in the resurrection ? We give it up. He has been even more afflicted than the English Baptist minister who married three wives, the first an heiress, the second a beauty, and the third a tartar. When asked if

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he had not had three wives, he replied, "Yes, I have had the world, the flesh, and the devil" Whose husband shall he be in the resurrection ? Again we give it up, and, with good wishes for the Griffin city, go on hence.

CHAPTER XXIV.
THE GATE CITY.
N arriving in Atlanta we are ac costed by a young man who tells us that he likes Atlanta better than Savannah. " Savannah," he
exclaims, "is an old-time place; Atlanta is chock-full of life." Well, let every man be fully persuaded in his own mind. Georgia is large enough for both of these cities, and each city can accommodate its own admirers. Atlanta is a new city. In 1835 it was in the woods; the next year the first house, a log-shanty, was erected; now it has a population of about 50,000, and still they come. As a railroad centre, it must always be full of busy men from every part of this busy land. Its great hotel, the Kimball House, which cost $645,000, and can entertain 800 guests, is a magnificent monu-

SOUTHWARD HO.'
ment of enterprise. The Capitol, now in course of erection, will be a grand achievement Atlanta is typical of Western rather than of Eastern progress, alert, bounding, rapid, accu mulative ; sometimes growing too fast for its
THE ICIMBALL HOUSE, ATLANTA.
strength and wisdom, but growing anyhow, while older and wiser cities are going to decay. In Atlanta is furnished additional evidence that the Georgian star is in the ascendant, and that whatever the past has been, the future will brighten from dawn to day.
Atlanta is now the political capital of Georgia.

THE GATE CITY.

119

The constitution of the State, revised in 1877, divides the government into the usual de partments, executive, legislative, and judicial The source of power is the sovereignty of the people. The public officers are elected by the suffrages of a majority of the male citizens over twenty-one years of age, sound in mind, not criminals, and who have paid all taxes assessed for the support of the Government. Exclusive of females and minors, the elective body is about one-fifth of the entire population.
The governor is elected for two years, and may be re-elected for a second term, but not for a third till at least four years have inter vened. His salary is 3000 dollars per annum, which is one-sixteenth part of the'income of the Bishop of London. In other words, the spiritual bishop receives as much "filthy lucre" in three weeks as the secular governor receives in a year.
The legislative department consists of a General Assembly, composed of 3. Senate with forty-four members, and a House of Represen tatives whose number is 175. The elections for both chambers are held biennially.
The judiciary consists of the Supreme Court, which is a Court of Errors only; the Superior

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Courts, with twenty-one judicial circuits and twenty-one judges, chosen each for six years; the Court of Ordinary ; Justices of the Peace; and Notaries Public.
The power of taxation is declared inalien able. The objects are limited to the support of government and public institutions, interest and principal of the public debt, cases of insurrec tion, invasion, or war, and elementary education. Taxation is uniform on classes ; ad valorem on property. A poll-tax of one dollar is allowed for educational purposes. Public property, churches, cemeteries, charities, colleges, schools, public libraries, literary associations, books and apparatus, paintings and statuary, not for sale or profit, are exempt The State credit and local taxation are carefully guarded.

CHAPTER XXV.

ECCLESIASTICAL FREEDOM.

N Sunday morning it is our lot to officiate in the Second Baptist Church. The Baptists are* the "banner" denomination in
Georgia, as the following statistics for 1884 will show:--

Baptist Church

- v members--113,010

African Baptist Church . . ,,

131,041

Methodist Episcopal Church . ,,

107,523

African Methodist Episcopal Church ,,

SS-S52

Roman Catholic Church . . population--35,000

Presbyterian Church . . communicants--9,245

Protestant Episcopal Church

,,

4,686

But if the Baptist body have the numerical pre-eminence, it is but primus inter pares in a commonwealth where no Church is presump tuously patronised by the State. In our con gregation are the governor of Georgia, an ex-

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governor, an ex-chancellor of the State Univer sity, the mayor of the city, several judges and magistrates, and a large number of the chief mer chants and public men of the community. But no special square pews are set apart for promi nent officials ; a stranger would never know the governor from any other worshipper. All are equal in the presence of One to whom all are alike the objects of His mercy and love.
That the same absence of official ostentation, the same selection by high and low of whatever church or creed they prefer, is not seen else where, is but a miserable -survival of absurd distinctions which ought to be dismissed as a degradation of moral manhood insufferable in an enlightened age. We love Old England too well to close our eyes to the social premiums there paid to conformity, or to the maltreatment by her " Established Church " of all who dis sent from its innovations, especially in its dis dain of that primitive Church which practises the baptism which its own Liturgy approves. What will the historian of the twentieth century say of the nineteenth when he finds that a Church which emblazoned " The Bible and the Bible only" on its armorial bearings counted as inferior its comrades in arms whose acknow-

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123

\

ledged strength on the field arose from their

adherence to the teachings of that very Book ?

Christian Churches had better drop their quali

fying adjective till they have learned the verb

to love. If they do not, they will make two

practical infidels for every one professional be

liever. "Christian Evidence" Societies can do

very little when Christian consistency is a jewel

of unknown value because of its rarity.

On Sunday afternoon we attend a union

service held to celebrate the opening of a Con

gregational church. Congregationalism is a

somewhat Northern importation, and the mini

ster himself is from the North. But we are

glad to hear him say that during his three or

four years' residence in Atlanta not a word has

been spoken to hifh which was inconsistent

with the spirit of Christian brotherhood. The

meeting is addressed by Baptist, Methodist,

and Presbyterian clergymen, and the tone of

every remark is as candid and frank as it is

cordial and kind. So much is worthy of record

as evidence that the North and South are not

nursing their hate.

We are able to furnish one sample of one sort

of pulpit oratory in Georgia fifty years ago.

A certain writer has given an account of a

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Modd Sermon to which he himself listened. He says:--In the autumn of 1830 I attended a camp-meeting in the interior of Georgia, and heard a sermon which I have never been able to forget or describe. I have attempted several times to write it; but it cannot be put upon paper. The main force of it was in the snuffing, and spitting, and groaning, and hound-after-afor sort of yelp or whine, to which no pen can do justice. It must be intoned to be appre ciated. I have preached it a thousand times for the amnsement of my friends, and have been satisfied with my effort. I have used it as a remedial agent in exorcising the demons of hypochondria, and have never failed to send them "down a steep place into the sea," or somewhere else, to the great relief of the sutferer.
The speaker had just been licensed, and it was his first sermon. In person he was small, bull-headed, of a fair, sandy complexion, and his countenance was indicative of sincerity and honesty. His remarks evinced great reverence for the works of God as manifested in zoology and natural history; and he "was taking up the Bible in regular order for the first time in his life." He had gotten as far as the history

ECCLESIASTICAL FREEDOM.

125

of the ark, the Flood, &c. Besides, just before
his conversion he "had been reading Goldsmith's Animated Nature, and the two books together, by the aid and assistance of the Spirit, had led
him into a powerful train of thinking, just as he stood at his work-bench day in and day out"
But whatever his sermon may have been, it was his own. The text was, "But as the days of
Noah, so shall also the coming of the Son of man be" (Matt. xxiv. 37). After commenting
on that portion of Genesis descriptive of the
Flood, he " warmed up " suddenly, and broke
out in the following strains :
"Yes, my brethren, the heavens of the windows was opened-ah, and the floods of the great deep Jcivered the waters-ah, and there was Shem, and there was Hem, and there was Japbeth-ah, all a-gwine into the ark-ah.
"And there was the elephant-ah, that great animal-ah, of which Goldsmith describes In bis Animated Narur-ah, and his bones as big as a tree-ah, depending somewhat on the size of the tree-ah, all a-gwine into the ark-ah. And the heavens of the windows was opened-ah, and the floods of the great deep kivered the waters-ah, and there was Hem, and there was Sbem, and there was Japheth-ab, all a-gwine nto the ark-ah.
"And there was the hippopotamos-ah, that great animalah, of which Goldsmith describes in his Animated Natur-ah, what has a great born-ah, a-sticking right straight up oat of his foreward-ah, six feet long-ab, more or less, depending somewhat on the length of it-ah, all a-gwine into the ark-ah.
" And there was the giraffe-ah, my brethren, that ill-con-

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tmed reptile, of which Goldsmith describes in his Animated Natur-ah, whose forelegs is twenty-five feet long-ah, more or less-ah, depending on the length of 'em-ah, and a neck so long that he can eat hay off the top of a bara-ah, depending somewhat on the hithe of the bam-ah, all a-gwine into the ark-ah. And the heavens of the windows was opened-ah, and the floods of the great deep kivered the waters-ah; and there was Hem, and there was Shem, and there was Japhethah, all a-gwine into the ark-ah.
"And there was the zebra, my brethren-ah ; that beauti ful animal, of which Goldsmith describes in his Animated Natur-ah, which has three hundred stripes a-runnin' round his body-all, more or less, depending somewhat on the num ber of stripes-ah, and nary two stripes alike-ah, and all agwine into the ark-ah.
"And there was the anaconder-ah, that great sarpint of which Goldsmith describes in bis Animated Natur-ah, what can swallow six oxen at a meal-ah, all a-gwine into the arkah. And the heaven of the windows was opened-ah, and the floods of the great deep kivered the waters-ah, and there was Shem, and there was Hem, and there was Japheth-ah, all agwine into the ark-ah.
"And there was the antelope-ab, my brethren, that frisky little critter-ah, of which Goldsmith describes in his Animated Natur-ah, what jumped seventy-five feet right straight up-ah, and twice that distance down-ah, provided his legs will carry hhn that far-ah, all a-gwine into the ark-ah. And th heavens of the windows was opened-ah, and the floods of the great deep kivered the waters-ah, and there was Shem, and there was Hem, and there was Japheth-ah, all a-gwine into the ark-ah."
Just at this point he stopped speaking a few
moments, wiped his forehead, turned back his
wristbands, ran his fingers through his hair, spit

ECCLESIASTICAL FREEDOM.

127

and rubbed his boot in it, drank a little water,
commenced on a lower key, and proceeded as
follows:--
"But time would fail me, my brethren, to describe all the animals that went into the ark-ah. Your patience and my strength would give out before I got half through-ah. We talk, my brethren, of the faith of Abraham and the patience of Job-ah, but it strikes me they didn't go much ahead of old Noer-ah. It tuck a right smart chance o' both to getber up all the gopher-wood and pitch and other truck for to build that craft-ah. I am a sort of carpenter myself, and have some idee of the job-ah. But to hammer, and saw, and maul, and split away on this one thing a hundred and twenty years-ab, an' lookin'for pay in another world-ah,-- I tell you, my brethren, if the Lord had a sot Job at that, .it's my opinion he would a-tuck his wife's advice inside o' fifty yearS-ah. Besides, no doubt, his righteous soul was vexed with the filthy.communications of the blasphemous set that was always a-loaferin' and a-saunterin' around-ab, a-picking up his tools and misplacin' em, and a-calling him an old fool, or something worse-ah ; and, to 'clap the climax, he w& a preacher, and had that ungodly generation in his hands every Sunday-ab. But the Lord stood by and seed him through the job-ah ; and when everything was ready, he didn't send Noer out to scrimmage and scout and hunt all over the wide world for to get up the critters and varmints that he wanted saved-ah. They all come to his hand of their own accord, and Noer only had to head 'em in and fix 'em around in their places-ah. Then he gathered up his own family, and the Lord shut him in, and the heavens of the windows was opened-ah.
" But, my brethren, Noer had need for patience after thisah. Think what a time he must a-had a-feeding and awatering and a-cleanin' out after such a crowd-ah. Some of

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'em, according to Goldsmith's Animated Natur-ah, was car nivorous, and wanted fresh meat-ah ; and some was her bivorous, and wanted vegetable food-ah; and some was wormfvorous, and swallowed up live things whole-ah : and h had to feed everything according to its nater-ah. Hence we view, nay brethren, as the nater of the animals wan't ahered by gwine into the ark-ah, some of'em would roar, and howl, and bark, and bray, and squeal, and bleat, the whole indurin' nigbt-ah, a-drivin' sleep from his eyes and shimberfrom his eyelets-ab, and at the first streak o' day the last hoof of 'em would set up a noise accordin' to natur-ah, and the bulls of Bashan wern't nowhere-ah. I've often wondered how their women stood it. Scripter is silent on this porat-ah; but I think I know of some that would a-been vapourin' and nervous under sich circumstances-ah, and in an unguarded moment might a-said somethin' besides their prayers-ah."
Here the speaker stopped again, spit, took
water, &c., and hastened to a conclusion.
" My brethren," said he, " one more word tor Noer, and I will draw to a close-ah. After the outbeatin' time be had, first and last, for so many hundred years-ah, if he did, by accident or otherwise, take a leetle too much wine on one occasion-ah, I think less ought to a-been said about it-ah. Besides, I think he was entitled to one spree-ah, as he made ' the wine himself; and, according to Scripter, it makes glad the heart o' man-ab. My brethren, as it was in the days of Noer, so shall the coming of the Son of man be-ah. The world will never be drowned again-ab. It will be sot a-fire and burnt op, root and branch, with afervient heat-ah. Oh, what will wretched, ondone sinners, do on that day-ah ? They won't feel fit for to live, nor fit for to die-ab. They will be put to their wits' end, aud knock and straddle around in every direction-ah. For all at once, my brethren, they

ECCLESIASTICAL FREEDOM. 129
will behold the heavens a-darkenin'-ah, the seasa-roarin'-ah, the tombs a-bustin'-ah, the mountains a-meltin'-ah; and everything, I think, will be in a confused and onset tied state-ah. May the Lord add his blessing! Amen!"
John B. Gough must have thought of this style of preaching when he told the story of a minister who noticed a woman in his audience crying, and went to her afterwards and said, "I saw you were very much affected during my discourse." She replied, "Yes, sir, I was. Perhaps you don't know what it was affected me. You see I lost my husband, and it was a very heavy loss, for I was left poor; and I got a cow and I called her ' Molly,' and I became so much attached to the poor dear creature that I almost got consoled for the loss of my husband, for she was bringing me in a little income. By and bye Molly was missing, and we hunted and hunted, and found her in the swamp. I knew that swamp, and I knew that we could never get her out. I knew that Molly's hours were numbered, and I stood on the edge of the swamp, and I said, ' Molly, poor Molly,' and that ere creature right in the swamp just looked at me and then she gave an awful bellow which went to my heart; and when I heard you bellow yesterday, it reminded me of her--the poor dear creature !"
l

CHAPTER XXVI.
A COLOURED UNIVERSITY.
f HE Atlanta University, about a mile from the city, is the principal in stitution in Georgia for the edu cation of young men and women
of colour. It was incorporated in 1867 and opened in 1869. In 1884 the number of students enrolled was 297, of whom 171 were boarders and 126 day-pupils. The build ings occupy high ground, which is thoroughly healthy. Its advantages are open to students of either sex, the only qualifications for admis sion being moral integrity joined with ability and willingness to work. One other condition, however, is made. The catalogue for 1884-85 reads : " For membership a person must sign a pledge to abstain from the use of all intoxi cating drinks and tobacco in every form

A COLOURED UNIVERSITY.

131

while a member of the school." The insti tution, while aiming to be religious, is not sec tarian. Students who are in needy circum stances may receive aid.
We went into some of the rooms, which we found light, clean, well-ventilated, and cheer ful. The work which we saw done was done exceedingly well. We were glad to find that the State Board of Examiners wrote in their report for 1883, "We have discharged the duty assigned us, and are much pleased with the re sults of our investigation. We confess to some degree of surprise and gratification at the pro ficiency exhibited by many of the pupils in every department of study in which they were examined before us. This was particularly true in relation to those studies which pertain to the higher culture. The original speeches and essays of the graduating class exhibited a matu rity of thought and an elegance and ease of expression which would have been creditable in any institution." The Examiners' report for 1884 is equally favourable.
Now, these words were written by Southern men living in Georgia, and they show con clusively that the coloured student is capable of liberal education, and that the white

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Southerner is as ready as any man to acknow ledge and rejoice in it. We inquired of one of the professors if he thought there was any considerable difference of brain-power between the average negro of pure descent and the average mulatto of mixed blood. His opinion was that no great difference existed. Some of the brightest intellects were owned by the blackest of negroes, and some by the fairest of octoroons. Perhaps a wider field of inquiry might produce other results; but the question is of some interest We may say that the annual cost of carrying on or " running" this University is about $36,000. Of this amount the State appropriation is $8000; the pupils contribute $9000 ; and the remaining $19,000 come from friends who live mostly in the North.

CHAPTER XXVII.
ALLATOONA.
HE Western and Atlantic Railroad runs from Atlanta to Chattanooga, just within the borders of Ten nessee, a distance of 138 miles,
through a region of rich mineral resources, a region of splendid mountain scenery, the home of health; a region which twenty-two years ago was the scene of one of the greatest of the historic campaigns of the American civil war. This railway is called the "State Road," be cause it was built by the State of Georgia. It was completed and opened in the year 1850. So remunerative has its business become under its present administration by an energetic com pany to whom it is leased, that we are assured it might sell for almost sufficient money to pay

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the public debt of the State and the recognised bonded indebtedness of Georgia in October 1884 was $8,704,635. Its rock-ballasted road-bed, its steel rails, its iron bridges, its extensive and elegant rolling-stock, its progressive manage ment, are guarantees of its permanent pros perity.
The first station or depot of importance is Marietta, to which visitors flock in the summer season to find a delightful abode. Close by is Kennesaw Mountain, overlooking the Allatoona Heights. In the war of the States, these eleva tions added historic eminence to their natural altitudes. After the capture of Atlanta- in Sep tember 1864, when the Confederate General Hood was making his famous movement to wards Tennessee in the Federal General Sherman's rear, Hood sent General French with his division to seize Allatoona, where Sherman had stored over a million rations of bread. Sher man, learning of this movement, signalled to the signal-station on the crest of Kennesaw Mountain, whence his message was transmitted over the heads of the Confederates to the forts on Allatoona, for General Corse at Rome to hasten to Allatoona with reinforcements for the garrison at that threatened point. Corse started

ALLATOONA.

135

with all possible speed, and arrived at Allatoona at one o'clock in the afternoon of October 5th. A battle ensued, resulting in the retreat of the Confederates. Early in the day, Sherman, who had reached the top of Kennesaw Mountain, received intelligence that Corse had arrived, and signalled back, "Hold the fort, for I am coming." This message from the field of blood has been caught up by the messengers of the Prince of Peace, who shout with warlike vehe mence--

"Ho! my comrades, see the signal Waving in the sky !
'. Reinforcements now appearing, Victory is nigh!
Hold the fort, for I am coming," &c. &c.

A much jnore affecting memorial of that sanguinary struggle between brothers now meets the eye of the traveller as the train runs through the deep pass beneath the Allatoona shadows. It is a lonely grave--a soldier's sepulchre. Where he fought he fell. It was not known at first under which flag he died; but ever since the track-hands of the railroad have had this grave under their special charge, guarding and tending it as a sacred trust A neat marble

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stone stands at the bead, bearing the following touching inscription :--

"AN UNKNOWN HERO. He diedfor the cause he thought was right*

THE SOLDIER'S GKATE.

CHAPTER XXVIII.
MINERALS AND MINES.
jjHE northern section of Georgia is exceedingly rich in economic minerals. In fact, the whole of the State abounds in useful
metals and precious stones. Minerals for pigments, as ochre and baryta; minerals for chemicals, as manganese and magnesia; mine rals for combustion, as bituminous coal and lignite; minerals for agriculture, as phosphates and marls; minerals for architecture, as granite and marble, sandstone and" slate; minerals for the arts, as graphite and mica, asbestos and talc;--all of these, with many more, are enu merated in the records of Georgian geology. The coal measures extend over an area of two hundred square miles. The marbles, coloured and variegated, are so abundant that in some

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parts the ballast and culverts of the railroads are formed of the finest kinds. Vast quantities of iron ore occur in beds, interstratified with shale or sandstone, of thicknesses varying from a few inches to a foot. One mountain, called " Shinbone," forty miles in length, is simply a mass of fossiliferous iron ore. The supply is practically inexhaustible. We may quote one analysis of fossil iron ore, which is official:--
Water "and organic matter at red heat. . . 1.91 per cent.
Iron . . ... 54.69 ,, Oxygen .... 23.44 ,, Insoluble matter . .12.57 ,, Alumina .... 7.42 ,, Phosphorus . . . .19 ,, Sulphur .... a trace.

100.22

Lead, in the form of galena, is found in widely separated localities, both in the metamorphic rocks of the north-east and the later formations of the north-west Copper, in the ore and metallic, has been traced for several miles. Silver, associated with lead, copper, and gold, has been discovered, but not in such quantities that it could be profitably mined.

MINERALS AND MINES.

139

The Indian tribes of Georgia are supposed to have known nothing of this metal prior to European colonisation, as it is never found among the implements and ornaments buried with their dead. Gold exists in nearly every portion of the metamorphic region, in almost every county north of the central line of the State. It was first discovered in Habersham County in 1831, and is most plentiful in Lumpkin, White, Dawson, Rabun, Cobb, and Cherokee Counties. A branch mint was established at Dahlonega in 1837, which coined, till it was discontinued in 1861, over $5,000,000, mostly Georgian gold. There are belts of country, following the general trend of the rocks, where it is obtained in such quantities that mining operations have been richly repaid.
According to a careful review of reports sent to the Director of the United States Mint, the gold production of Georgia in 1882 amounted to $254,500. This shows an increase of $120,500 on the production of 1881. The yellow metal, as its name signifies, occurs under three distinct conditions :--as gold-dust pr nug gets, forming portions of the sand or gravel deposited by mountain streams; as grains or particles embedded in schists; and also as

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the treasure hidden in the veins of hard quartz. Many of the gold-bearing schists or beds have undergone decomposition, and are worked with comparative ease; the harder quartz is crushed in pounding-mills till it gives up its gold. The metal is usually separated from the lighter mate rials by washing in sluices, and subsequently by amalgamation.
We have had some correspondence with a gentleman who is a graduate of a mining-school in Germany, his native land. He has been a citizen of Georgia about twelve years, and has made himself fully acquainted with the mining activities and advantages of this richly mineral State. His words are weighty with experience. He says : " It is acknowledged and proved that the greatest and most profitable mining opera tions will be located upon the large bodies of the low-grade ores, where the costs of work ing do not eat up the product. The Georgia soft slate belts, intermersed with hundreds and thousands of strings, smaller and larger goldbearing quartz veins, are the drifting-points for capital. These Georgia schists, worked by the hydraulic process, are depositing from onethird to one-half of their gold in the sluices; while the quartz and harder slate laminae con-

MINERALS AND MINES.

. 14!

taining gold are sluiced to the pounding-milt, and there deliberated [pulverised ?] by crushing with stamps. The gold is saved by copper or silver plates, which are amalgamated to catch the gold on its way over said plates. The whole process of working in the Georgia gold-mining business costs an average of from thirty-five to forty cents per ton of material. And counting even our lowest grades of ore as worth from a dollar to a dollar and a quarter per ton, it is visible that a profit of from sixty to eighty-five cents can be made on every ton of the lowest material. The only secret between success or failure in Georgia is management The advan tages which Georgia offers to capitalists can not be surpassed by any mining section in the Union." He then enumerates the advantages to miners offered in Georgia, The mining laws of the State are the best; the climate is healthy, permitting operations the whole year round; water is plentiful; the prices of property are reasonable; the inhabitants are favourable to miners; railroad facilities are excellent; labour is abundant and cheap. If, with all of these inducements to immigration into Georgia, capi talists stay away, they cannot complain that oppor tunities are scarce for profitable investments.

CHAPTER XXIX.
AUGUSTA.
fHE line from Savannah to Atlanta, 294 miles in length, connects the two chief centres of the State, and richly repays the observant tourist
who takes the trip. If we add the line from Atlanta to Chattanooga, we have the extreme north-west of Georgia connected with the sea by an iron road of 432 miles, which carries the traveller through a greater variety of scenery, pro duction, and climate than perhaps he could find elsewhere in the New World. Another journey, less pursued, but more enjoyable in some re spects, is from Savannah to the delightful district of the north-^ast of Georgia. We leave the road to Macon at Millen, and after running through over fifty miles of fine land, and passing by

AUGUSTA.

143

such lively little towns as Waynesboro, we arrive in Augusta, the second city in the State in regard to age, Savannah, as we know, being the first It was laid out by General Oglethorpe, the founder of the colony, 150 years ago, and was named after Augusta, the favourite daughter of the Second Georgius Rex, whose name was given to the State. A ride through the broad and green streets, intersecting each other at right angles, and lined with various deciduous trees, which afford shade in summer and admit the warm sunshine in winter, re veals the mathematical mind of the military genius whose methodical plan in this second city we so much admire in his design of the first.
Among her early citizens Augusta boasts the celebrated Richard Harry Wilde, the author of that exquisite gem of lyric poetry commencing " My life is like the summer rose." She has an industrious, a generous, and prosperous popu lation of about 30,000. She is renowned in cotton manufacture, having started this indus try nearly forty years ago. Her pioneer factory has enjoyed since the war a career of uninter rupted success. The building has been enlarged twice over, every space filled with improved

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machinery, and every room crowded with busy hands. The factory is now valued at a million dollars, while a surplus of two hundred and fifty thousand stands on the credit side of profit and loss. Georgia no longer depends entirely on Northern and English factories for the con version into fabrics of her raw material. She has sixty-two mills at work, with 340,130 spindles and 7834 looms. These consume 100,000 bales of cotton per annum, employ about 10,000 hands, and engage a capital of $13,000,000.
Augusta possesses, among many noble public institutions, a princely orphan asylum, whose provisions for the helpless little ones of both sexes make it the pleasure and pride of her philanthropic people. This asylum was incor porated in 1852. The children of indigent parents as well as orphans find room within its hospitable walls. Last year it supported in children. Everything about the place is neat as a new pin; its law is that of kindness, its atmos phere is that of a home. Its friends permit no aspect of poverty, no air of cold, condescending charity, to embitter the lot of the little guests, whose dependence is their misfortune, not their fault. The munificent sum of f 173,769 has been spent on the house and grounds, and

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u.

the whole property, with bonds and stocks, is estimated at over four hundred thousand dollars.

AWGUSTA ORFHANAGK.
Such gifts are loans to the God of the needy, who refunds them with interest.

CHAPTER XXX.
A THUNDER-STORM.
[HILE in Augusta we witnessed one of those sublime exhibitions of atmospheric electricity which are not uncommon in tropical and
semi-tropical climes. " The Lord looked unto the host of the Egyptians through the pillar of fire and of the cloud, and troubled the host of the Egyptians." These words arose before our mind as we stood one evening outside the door of the Planter's Hotel We had never before felt these words so forcibly, nor seen their sig nificance so vividly, as we did then. The day had been oppressively warm; our inspiration had distilled into perspiration, and we had arrived at the terminus of our railway journey weary with heat and defiled with dust The clouds were assembled" in mountain-like masses,

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ready to discharge their refreshing rain, and, as it proved, their stones of hail, to cool and clear the sultry air. At first there appeared here and there a sudden gleam, as of fitful phospho rescence, dancing like luminous'spectres behind broad veils of grey vapour. Soon the reflected flicker became the direct flash, and tremulous wires of incandescence, white and dazzling with impetuous ignition, darted out of the darkness and instantly disappeared again in their own light. Anon, the outline of a sable cloud was fringed with brilliant silver, which evaporated in the twinkling of an eye into mists of over spreading brightness. Then, as the lightning leaped from one end of the heavens, enlightening the world, and kindled a battery at the other end, the whole field of the firmament was aflame. The embattled hosts poured forth their heaviest artillery, with loudest rattle and longest roar The awestruck spectator could now no longer ,gaze without fear upon the blinding fires, nor hear without a sympathetic tremor the deafening reports of the attacking thunders and the de spairing reverberations of the retreating echoes. The heights of heaven were taken by storm, and the plains of the celestial Armageddon were swept with a besom, which destroyed every

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noxious exhalation, and brought in its train the benediction of purity and peace. During just such a night as this " the Lord looked through the pillar of fire and of th^ cloud, and troubled the hosts of the Egyptians," who fled in con fusion when they saw the frown on the face of God. Science and Scripture alike declare that to the works of darkness "our God is a con suming fire."

CHAPTER XXXL
ATHENS.
[T Augusta we leave the Central line and take the Georgia Rail road, which is confessedly one of the best constructed and con
ducted railway systems in the South. Its charter was granted in 1833. It embraces 372 miles of track. The capital stock of the com pany is over four million dollars; their resources eight millions. They own immense machineshops in Augusta, where from 160 to 175 hands are employed. The amount paid annually in wages is about $110,000. We travel a distance of 116 miles to Athens, where, very properly, we find the State University. The Athenians are really estimable people. They appreciate their salubrious climate, ex hibit to their visitors some superior natural

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scenery, and exult in their hilly situation and fruitful soil. In their business they manifest considerable energy, while in their social inter course they ur ostentatiously display no little beauty, intelligence, and experience. But their great feature is their masculine vigour in the 'academic education of the young men in the University, relieved by the feminine grace with which the work of mental refinement among the young ladies of the State is prosecuted at the Lucy Cobb Institute. Town and gown (the gown representing both sexes) coexist in the greatest harmony and good-will The Lucy Cobb Institute was organised in 1858. Its. scholastic year is of forty weeks. Its course of study is divided into primary, academic, and collegiate branches. The cost of board and fuel, English and Latin tuition, and incidentals, for each pupil, is $215 per annum. In 1884 the number of fair students enrolled was 136. The life of the Institute is home-like; the Principal acting as the elder sister in a large and happy family.
It was in the year 1785, a hdndred years since, that an Act was passed in the Legislature of the State granting a charter to the governor and other appointed persons as trustees of the

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institution thereby established as the " Univer sity of Georgia." Since that time it has grown, like the Century Oak, to grand proportions, and from under its sheltering and fostering shade thousands of trained men have passed into the sunshine of the exposed world as from the sacred environment of a tree of life. The Uni versity embraces the Academic department, known as Franklin College, the State College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts, and the department of Law. It has also a Medical department in Augusta and branch colleges in other towns. Its campus contain* thirty-seven acres; and its assets, apart from land, amount to about $650,000. Its library, the nucleus of a bibliotheca worthy of so great a State, contains 20,000 volumes of valuable works. Its physical and chemical apparatus is unequalled in the South. Some of its buildings are dilapidated through age; but its chapel is a noble hall, and its "Moore College," given by the city of Athens at a cost of $25,000, is a pleasure to all observers.
For every department of practical occupation the student may here be fully equipped; and, what is of moment with many, the tuition, except in law and medicine, is free to all, irrespective

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of place of birth or residence We conversed with several of the men, a few of whom were at their work, and found them very thoughtful and evidently in earnest We met most ot the professors, who impressed us as gentlemen in all respects fitted for their responsible posts. And the venerable Chancellor, who, with the polish of a Grecian philosopher united the dignity and urbanity of a Roman patrician, com manded our esteem and charmed our heart. We had crossed the Atlantic with him several years before; and it was delightful to renew the acquaintance in the republic of letters whose presidency he adorns. In him the suaviter in modo is so admirably blended with the fortittr in re, that every student loves while he obeys. The head of this great University is universally regarded as worthy of its crown. Few names rank higher in Southern veneration than that of the Rev. Dr. Mell.

CHAPTER XXXII.
GAINESVILLE.
H E North-Eastern-Railroad of Georgia runs over seventy-two miles of good arable country from Athens to Tallulah Falls, and is
a great convenience to planters and merchants, who send their cotton, lumber, chickens, and other produce to market by this means. It also carries about 35,000 passengers every year. Its trains are not excessively fast, but on that account they give the more time for freight and meditation.
At Lula, a young town yet in its naked in fancy, we meet the Atlanta train and turn aside to Gainesville, This is a chosen resort of many Georgia families, who live during the major part of the year on lower levels, and consequently seek in summer such a change as the interest-

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ing scenery and invigorating air of this elevated region can supply. Health here is a greater object than time. The tradesmen keep their shops open unusually and unnecessarily late; for the business of even so considerable a centre as Gainesville might be transacted as well in eight hours as in sixteen. But the people all appear to take life with remarkable equanimity and ease. In Atlanta, if a man of leisure in tends to idle away an hour at a street corner, he runs thither, lest the corner should be gone before he arrives. But in Gainesville there is no sign of hurry or worry ; the placid citizens seem to have little to do, and it is done with commensurate energy. Probably they are the more thoughtful, like the parrot, which the sailor who sold him warranted to say anything; and when, after six months' trial, the purchaser complained that he said nothing, the sailor replied, " No doubt he thinks the more."
Standing at the door of our hotel one day, we observed the proprietor seated on a skinbottomed chair, which he carefully balanced on its hind-legs to give his body the angle of ease. A neighbour sauntered up, and poised himself on another chair, when the following dialogue took place.

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"What are you doing to-day? On the loaf?" *' Yes, loafing; nice occupation isn't it ? " "Ah, splendid!" Such persons will not die of heart-disease. It is right, however, to remember that there are seasons of the year when even these have to be up and doing. Gainesville is certainly an at tractive place, with a charming climate, espe cially in summer. It is sure to grow greatly in favour with all the people as the years roll
by.

CHAPTER XXXIIL
NEW HOLLAND SPRINGS. I
jfWO miles from this little town, and fifty from Atlanta, are the New Holland Springs, at an altitude of 1500 feet above the sea. The
atmosphere is very clear and pure, the oaks and maples fanning the peaceful vale with the cooling fragrance of their exhilarating balm. Embowered in the midst of the sylvan scene is the rustic hotel, around which cluster the cosy little cottages where the contented pilgrims, who come hither in bands every summer, sojourn as in castles of dreamy indolence, and sleep as in arbours of blissful ease. Descending the slope beside the hotel, we reach a pretty pavilion overshadowing the principal spring, whose trans lucent water lies in its little bed like a sparkling crystal, amid which the busy bubbles spring to

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the surface to shine like beauteous gems on its heaven-reflecting breast. . The solid ingredients of this water are of small amount, and are chiefly carbonates of lime, magnesia, and potash, with chloride of sodium and a trace of iron; but carbonic-acid gas is present in such quan tity--44.7 cubic inches to the gallon--that it constantly escapes. The water is harmless and beneficial, pleasant and cool; and, like the spring of life, which never runs dry, is without money and without price.

CHAPTER XXXIV.
CLARKSVILLE.
ETURNING to Lula, which, if it had been a Western settlement, would have grown during the forty eight hours of our absence,
we proceed to Clarksville, which ought to be christened Chicksville, for there must be more chickens imported, supported, exported, and transported in this tiny town than in any other henery in the State. Clarksville affords delight ful habitation in the hot season to several ex cellent families from the lowlands of Georgia, and is the happy home of some educated and refined residents. But in the surrounding neighbourhood, as in other parts of the land, we may pee or hear of various stages in human civilisation. It was not far from Clarksville-- perhaps it was in the ville itself--that we over-

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heard a statement that ladies sometimes chewed tobacco. Could it be possible ? This practice is bad enough for gentlemen, but for ladies it is too bad. There must have been some mis take. We sometimes excuse certain habits in the sons of the soil on the ground that they help to consume their own produce. Where so much tobacco is grown, some of it may be used for the encouragement of trade. For this reason, possibly, in a land of pine forests nearly everybody does what he can for fhe lumber business by using up so many dozen toothpicks every day of his life. We confess to a very im perfect education; we cannot pick our teeth in public, and we cannot chew tobacco. But we have seen enough of those who could do both. Of the spitting in consequence of the chewing, what ought to be said ? We have seen it every where--in the train, on the street, in the home, in the sanctuary; we have seen it in ministers of religion, in the parlour and in the pulpit; we have seen it done through the lips and through the teeth. " O temporal O mores!"
Apposite to this salivary ejection is an anec dote, for our knowledge of which we are in debted to the Rev. Dr. Mell of Athens.
Peter Cartwright was a Methodist preachef

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of wide celebrity in Tennessee about forty years ago. On one occasion a certain well-known senator was present during the delivery of a fine sermon^at the close of which a hymn was sung and a prayer offered. The preacher then said that he could not dismiss the congregation without showing his sense of the indecorum which he had witnessed during his discourse. He proceeded: "Perhaps you think I refer to those two young men yonder, who have been conducting themselves with most unseemly hilarity. No; I do not mean them. Or perhaps you imagine I mean that young woman yonder in flounces and furbelows and powdered face, who came in late that all might see her cheap finery. No; I do not mean her. No doubt you think I must mean that man there who has been making the sanc tuary a chamber to sleep in, while his mouth has been wide open as a trap to catch flies. No; I do not mean him." The senator, who had been vigorously chewing tobacco and spitting throughout the service, brightened up with keen enjoyment of the preacher's in dignation. "No; I mean that filthy man who has been making this building a spit-box, defiling the house of God, to his unutterable

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disgrace." The revulsion in the senator's feelings may be imagined; it has never been described.
Tell it not in Gath ! And, to deal with all of the horrible things at once, it was in Clarksville that we heard of a gentle Athenian, who was boarding in the north-eastern section of the State, and being called by a coloured servant early in the morning, she ventured to lie a little longer; whereupon she received a peremptory order to get up, as " the missis wanted one of the sheets for a tablecloth." But we must have been dreaming; what we have just set down could never have taken place. The thought of a lady chewing tobacco disordered our brain. Besides, we have forgotten almost that in hospitable Clarksville we are provided with horses and carriage by which we travel twelve miles to one of the loveliest scenes on American soil, the sweetly serene and sequestered valley of Nacoochee.

CHAPTER XXXV.
NACOOCHEE VALLEY.
HE word is Indian, and signifies " Evening Star." It was given to the beautiful daughter of a Cherokee chief, of whom a thrilling
story is told The Chattahoochee river winds its silvery way through the charming vale, where broad fields covered over with corn, or soft meadows enamelled with flowers, smile in all the benignity of a loving-kindness which has wrought with the hand of man in making this fair Nacoochee a valley of the sunshine of life. Guarded by an outer muniment of Mount Yonah and his rugged compeers, and by an inner wall of woody Ihills, on whose gentle slopes flourish the trees which appease the passing storms: adorned with neat houses, which nestle amid oaks and poplars at the feet

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of the easy acclivities; blessed with inexhaus tible productiveness of soil, with purity of water and air, and with more gold in the bed of the river and the rocks around than all the banks of the country can boast; no one thing is need ful to make Nacoochee an Eden but the immi gration and industry of upright men, virtuous women, and happy children, whom Heaven will help and bless. Regretfully we turn away from this halcyon dale, haunted by the memory of the Indian maid and her lover, and peradventure haunted more by the spirits of those noble chiefs whom Christian white men dis possessed, and re-entering Clarksville, we re sume the iron road to Tallulah Falls.

CHAPTER XXXVI.
TALLULAH FALLS.
[S we approach the terminus, we are confronted with bold rocks, which suggest the proximity ol ravines. The last mile of the
railway cost $50,000, being cut through high masses of the hardest mineral But not until we have left the train and descended with care ful step the steep declivities of the deep chasm have we the least conception of the profound sublimity of this wonderful scene. Tallulah, or the " Terrible," has here become a rapid river. Rushing with unbridled impetuosity over the polished rocks, angered at every resistance, it dashes over the first cataract as in a fit of frenzy. Striking against huge boulders below, foaming in and out of sullen recesses, it increases in violence, and throws itself madly over the second

TALLULAH FALLS.

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precipice with tempestuous force. Broken with the fall and boiling with terrific rage, it rises, and, rallying all its might for one desperate charge, it leaps with hurricane speed over a third precipice into an abysmal chasm, where it roars as in an agony of defeat. Spent and sub dued, the reckless cataract relapses into the calmer cascade, and rolls away to the smooth ledge of submerged granite, over which it quickly glides with the snowy beauty of a bridal veil, or like the wavy tresses of the Ancient of Days, whose hair was white like wool, and whose voice was as the sound of many waters. We scramble with exhausted muscles up the rugged side of the wild gorge, and, steadying our nerves, stand for a moment on what is miscalled the " Devil's Pulpit." A grander spectacle was never wit nessed under the setting sun. The four falls of the winding river are seen a thousand feet below, shining in the soft light like streams and walls of burnished silver. Around these central objects is an amphitheatre of vast dimensions covered with trees, which, were they human hearers, would form an audience such as, in the presence of all this grandeur and power, even an arch angel would tremble to address. Let Tallulah be universally known, and it will attract to itself

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innumerable visitors, confer on Georgia illimi table renown, and share with Niagara the admi ration of mankind.
There are other natural wonders in this neigh bourhood, to wit, Toccoa Falls, which tumble perpendicularly over a rock a distance of 185 feet. Before the bottom is reached the water is dispersed in mist, which waves to and fro with every breath of wind, and, seen against the background of dark rock, presents a picture of extreme beauty. The Indians rightly call this fall Toccoa, the " Beautiful," But with this ex ception we can find nothing worthy of mention in connection with Taliulah, and therefore return to the sea-board; for the southern section of the State awaits our exploration.

CHAPTER XXXVII.
QUITMAN.
?iea-fiS^HE Savannah, Florida, and Western Railroad is an extensive system of rapid transit across the South Atlantic States, embracing a lineal
descent from north to south of nine hundred miles, including its lateral deflections. Com mencing at the fine old city of Charleston, in South Carolina, it continues its course through Savannah, where are its headquarters; runs throughout Southern Georgia to the Apalachicola river and Albany, and carries its grand trunk into Florida, where its ramifications traverse almost the length and breadth of that healthful and beautiful peninsula. It penetrates the inter minable forests where pines, pines, and nothing but pines, salute the eye and sweeten the air with their grateful odour. The lumber interest

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of Georgia is simply enormous. There are said to be seven hundred millions of dollars worth of pine-wood in Georgia, at the market value. This railway is an indispensable channel for the naval stores and lumber, wh'ich are a leading and largely lucrative branch of Southern trade, as well as for the oranges, melons, pears, and early vegetables which supply the markets of the land from the Rocky Mountains to the shores of Maine. Steel rails, first-class rolling stock, luxuriant sleeping and parlour cars, with quick locomotion, make the road a. popular highway, along which tens of thousands of invalids and tourists annually migrate from the frigid, rigid North to the balmy air and blessed sunshine of the semi-tropical Land of Flowers.
At Waycross we leave the Florida train and proceed through a flat region of pine-land to Quitman, where we meet some excellent people, and are " made acquainted " with many others, who may be equally excellent, but our acquain tance is too short for us to say. The inhabi tants number about eighteen hundred. Half of these are coloured, the other half uncoloured. During our visit we see proof that certain persoijs from certain higher latitudes sometimes

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seek to set the two races in the South at vari ance. Under cover of philanthropy towards the blacks these strifemakers conceal their misanthropy towards the whites. Such iniqui tous efforts deservedly fail What we found in Savannah we find throughout the whole State: the relations between the peoples of every shade are harmonious, the white people acknowledg ing that the coloured people are their best labourers and servants, and the coloured people acknowledging that, their white masters and mistresses are their best friends. '* Honi soil qui trial y pense."
We have no object in view that could lead us to misrepresent this matter. We speak what we iiave seen, and testify what we know to be true. We have no apology to make for slavery. We believe that it was wrong in principle and practice, even though the Bible may be quoted in its behalf; though the Father of the Faithful used his wife's Egyptian slave for breeding purposes, and afterwards turned her and her child into the wilderness; though the Hebrews, emancipated from Egyptian slavery themselves, claimed the command of the Lord to make slaves of heathen captives,and to transmit them to their children; though Jesus did not condemn Roman

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slavery, and Paul returned a runaway slave to his owner. It was wrong all the same. Neither do the people of the South, the former slave holders, justify it per se. On the contrary, its evil has frankly been acknowledged by some of its most interested supporters. Nor were they so inconsistent as at first appears. Slavery was disapproved in principle; it was only defended as an " institution" which had long existed in the Colonies, which was recognised in the Con stitution of the States, and which it was thought dangerous to abolish. In the Convention which framed the Constitution, the speakers who most strongly condemned the institution were from the South, and any attempts to have it sanc tioned were made by men from the North. Patrick Henry deplored it, but thought that prudence forbade its abolition. He declared that to see all the blacks emancipated would rejoice his very soul. Thomas Jefferson said, < I tremble when I look at slavery, and re member that God is just." John Randolph detested it; but, like Henry Clay, saw the diffi culty of a settlement, which he hoped that time and chance would bring about* These views of the leaders were shared by their followers,
* See the Q&arferly Rei-iew for January i88a, p. 69.

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and the South to-day feels blessed in the re moval of the curse.
That the great majority of masters and mis tresses were kind and good to their slaves, many of whom were born on their estates and brought up with their own children, no one can doubt who has lived for any time in the Southern States. Englishmen may think otherwise if they listen to prejudiced partisans, or to coloured impostors who cross the ocean to trade on British benevo lence, or if, when they visit the States, they travel in one section and hear only one side of the question. But if they will live in the South for a while, and go in and out among the people, black and white, they will form the decision which we have formed after seven years' experi ence. Let the following questions be answered, if they are answerable. How is it that, during the war, when the masters went to the field, leaving their families and property at the mercy of the negroes, no vengeance was taken of the cruelties which those negroes are said to have suffered on every side? We have yet to hear of the first breach of trust on the part of the faithful servants. Again, how is it that the coloured people, now that they are enfranchised, are voting with their former owners in opposi-

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tion to their Northern liberators ? Is it not in contestable evidence that the people themselves know who are their true friends, and who merely wish to use them for the attainment of political ends? "Let justice be done though the heavens fall." And justice is being done very rapidly, the " solid South" is regaining the ascendancy, notwithstanding past efforts to crush it and keep it down. It has the soil, it has the labour; it will have the population, it will produce the capital. It is educating and employing- the coloured people; the coloured people are work ing and accumulating wealth. In spite of every adversity or difficulty, the races will yet realise an unexampled prosperity.
The day will come when the history of modern slavery will be written fairly and fully. It will then be seen that the South was not the only, nor even the chief, offender in this bad business. England, some of whose generous philanthropists have said such bitter things of the Southern people--England, which boasts so justly and proudly now that "a slave, the moment he lands in England, or even puts his foot on board a British man-of-war on the high seas, falls under the protection of her laws, and becomes a free man"--England was not always

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without sin in this respect. William of Malmesbury, 750 years since, six centuries before Georgia was colonised, accused the AngloSaxon nobility of selling their female servants, even when pregnant by them, as slaves to foreigners; and Henry Hallam finds " too much authority for the general practice." Giraldus Cambrensis says that the English before the Conquest--Hallam says " even after the Conquest"--sold their children and other rela tions to be slaves in Ireland, without having the pretext of distress or famine, till -the Irish, in a National Synod, agreed to emancipate all the English slaves in the kingdom. When, about the year 1750, one of her American colonies, now one of the Southern States, passed a law prohibiting the introduction of negroes from abroad, Great Britain ordered its repeal, for bidding the colonists to meddle again with the subject, as the trade was very profitable to a large number of British merchants. It is only fifty years ago that England owned 800,000 slaves on West Indian plantations, who were making sugar to sweeten the tea which she still buys of the Chinese in exchange for opium. When old drunkards have " taken the pledge," they become very severe on young drinkers;

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and woe to the first offender when a reformed offender sits upon the bench. Grand Old Eng land is gloriously free, but some of her subjects (subjects still) might have shown more mercy to their American brethren, who had purchased her slaves, and who were 'only waiting the hour when an equitable Providence would deliver them also from the common curse. Instead of mercy, many Englishmen were im patient in condemnation; they listened only to the misrepresentations of subsidised mischiefmakers, and misread the extravagances of fiction for the soberness of truth. It is happily true that multitudes of the right-minded took a different course, and nothing is to be said against the propriety of execrating the abhorred system; but against the Southern people not an English dog should have moved his tongue.
So much for Old England's share in setting at variance the two races in the South. Now for the Northern States, which, perhaps be cause they were of the same household, were the worse foes. Any one reading the effusions which emanated a quarter of a century ago Irom the pulpit and press of New England, New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania, would imagine that a slave had never been

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known to tread upon those holy lands. Yet what is the truth ? The first American vessel that was ever engaged in the slave-trade sailed from the port of Boston. George H. Moore, a member of the Historical Society of Massa chusetts, is our authority for the following state ments. In his notes on the history of slavery in that State, hejlells us that the Puritans in their earliestxoae made ample provision for slavery,' and"^added the conviction that it was established by the law of God. He says that the people of Massachusetts raised slaves for the markets; that these slaves were taxed like horses, oxen, cows, goats, sheep, and swine until after the commencement of the revolu tionary war; that " negro men, women, and children were mixed up in the sales with wear ing apparel, gold watches, and other goods;" and he gives specimens of advertisements as follows:--" Very good Barbadoes rum is offered with a young negro that has had the small pox;" " And also just arrived, a choice parcel of negro boys and girls;" " A likely negro woman, about nineteen years of age, and a child of about six months of age, to be sold together or apart;" and so on. When these horrible things were done in the South, men in Old England and in
M

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New England raised indignant cries of shame. And they were shameful; but where did the work begin ? In the North ; not in the South. While Massachusetts was offering young negroes with Barbadoes rum and separating mothers and their babes, Georgia was positively prohibiting the traffic, Oglethorpe said, " Slavery is against the gospel, as well as the fundamental law of England. We refused as trustees to make a law permitting such a horrid crime." While in Massachusetts, as John Adams confesses, " the practice of slavery was not disgraceful," in Georgia not a single slave was allowed within her limits. But finally, the slave-dealers of the North tempted the people of Georgia to try the institution, and they yielded to the allurement for the sake of gain. Love of money was the root of the evil; but Georgia was the last of the colonies to be caught in the snare
Adam Smith rather caustically remarks, " The late resolution of the Quakers in Pennsylvania to set at liberty all their negro slaves may satisfy us that their number cannot be very great. Had they made any considerable part of their property, such a resolution could never have been agreed to." The fact of the matter was, the slaves were unprofitable in the North,

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therefore they were sold South. For a long time the South would not have them. As late as 1809 Maryland enacted a law that any person bring ing a free negro into the State with intent to
sell him as a slave should be fined 800 dollars, or set to work on the roads for five years. But as the cotton plantations and rice-fields needed the labour, hindrances were removed, and the> South bought up the slaves of the North. Thereby the Southern planters became rich and powerful, until the war came, which desolated their territory, and deprived them of their pro perty without returning them a cent of compen sation. The North maintained the Union at an immense sacrifice of men and money. The South in the cause of Secession staked all she had, and lost As the late General Toombs of Georgia gamely said, " We wore ourselves out whipping the North." It was a terrible conflict, and, as many good men on both sides thought then and think still, a terrible mistake. Never theless, the Union was preserved, slavery was abolished, the South subdued. What was to follow? The North was victorious, the South vanquished; did the victor encourage the victim to rise and recover her exhausted strength, or did she exult over the fallen foe, and tread upon

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her with a despotic heel ? What is written iswritten.
In the winter of 1865 the struggle of recon struction of the Southern States began. Then, too, began the miserable policy of repression of the white people under martial law, or a treat ment that was worse than military government. In 1872, seven years after the war closed, we found Northern politicians treating Southern " rebels * as criminals, who ought never to be forgiven, in this world or the next To further exasperate and punish the white man, the black man was flattered and petted, and encouraged to believe that his former owner was his eternal enemy. We may quote here the words of an, estimable lady who lived in Georgia some years after the war. She says, " The South was still treated as a conquered country. The white people were disfranchised, the local government in the hands of either military men or Northern adventurers, the latter of whom, with no desire to promote either the good of the country or people, but only to advance their own private ends, encouraged the negroes in all their foolish and extravagant ideas of freedom, set them against their old masters, filled their minds with false hopes, and pandered to their worst passions

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in order to secure for themselves some political office which they hoped to obtain through the negro vote." *
Fortunately for the honour of a common humanity and the happiness of all parties con cerned, this condition of things is drawing to a close. Only now and then, as recently in Quit-
man, when some Northern enemy sows tares among the wheat and goes his way, is it seen that malice in some natures dies hard "Carpetbaggers"and "scalawags," as they are expressively styled, find they are not wanted; the governors and other officers of the Southern States are men chosen by the Southern people; the progress of political corruption is being checked ; the public service is being improved in character, and good men are taking the front rank. In this march of progress the coloured people have an influence. They find out their new friends to be disguised foes, and their old foes, as they were latterly taught to believe them, they find out to be defamed friends. On all questions vital to the future of the nation the two races are agreed and vote together. With such a combination, what can prevent the recently prostrate South

* Ten Yean on a Georgia Plantation since the War. By Frances Butler Leigh. London, 1883, p. a.

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from " rising on stepping-stones of her dead self to higher things " ? Having all needed natural advantages, she may, with political purity and unity, the counterpart of social sanctity and affec tion, with industry, economy, and enterprise, put to silence envious tongues, contribute a leading share in the elevation and expansion of the mighty nation of which she forms an integral part, and convince the world that if she lost in her great struggle, she deserved to win.
Now we return to the point of departure. In Quitman we notice oranges and even bananas growing in the open air, so genial is the climate. The chief business is in cotton, about 10,000 bales being brought here annually. There is room for growth, such as would result from an importation of British subjects and sovereigns. We find here a valuable cottonmill, which has not hitherto succeeded for want of competent management When set in motion by able operators, it will furnish employ ment to many hands, and turn to advantage the capital of its owners. Three miles from town we inspect the process --a very primitive one--by which the juice of the sugar-cane is converted into syrup, here pro nounced " surrup." Three hundred gallons of

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syrup from one acre of sugar-cane is a fair re turn. An acre of good cane will yield as much as fifteen barrels of syrup, each barrel contain ing about thirty gallons. The crop ought to be very remunerative, syrup and sugar ought to be very cheap, and the saccharine element ought to abound among the sons of men. Heaven bless the sugar crop! There is enough vinegar and gall, citric acid and aloes-wood, in stock to last a thousand years. Heaven blight the crop of ecclesiastical bigotry, political discord, and domestic bitterness, compared with which wormwood itself is sweet.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.
THOMASVILLE.
rHOMASVILLE is rapidly rising into repute as a winter retreat for the delicate and debilitated who are unable to withstand the
weather of the North. To meet the demand of health-seekers it has two fine hotels, and its citizens are awake to the superior advantages of its sanitary situation. It is likewise becoming a centre of the pear-producing industry, which promises to be only second in importance to the orange cultivation of Florida, whose boun dary-line is but a few miles away. It is being demonstrated more clearly every season that Georgia will produce what can be produced in any other State, North or South, Florida not excepted. And considering its climate, its hor ticulture is of prime importance. Fruits and vegetables are a hygienic necessity where the

THE PINKY WOODS HOTEL, THOMASVILLB.

THOMASVILLE.

187

weather is warm during the major part of the year. The Esquimaux, who has his raiment of bearskin, and burrows in huts of ice and snow, may gorge himself with whale blubber, his dwarfed body demanding the caloric which can be supplied only by large quantities of the fat of animals and the oil of fish. The Siberian, too, may swallow his pint of oil or pound of tallow with as much comfort as the Scotchman derives from his draught of strong Highland whisky to keep out the cold. But a Northern diet is out of place in a State like Georgia. The Englishman finds this to his cost when he under takes to use as much beef, bread, and beer where the mercury stands at 3 or 90 as he did where its average indication was 50. His indulgence in heavy or rich foods entails headache, biliousness, dyspepsia, gastritis, predisposition to malaria, and other penalties. Moses was a wise legislator in prohibiting pork in the hot deserts of Arabia. Those who live in Georgia are not bound to be vegetarians, but common sense suggests the disuse of fatty foods. Steaks and chops, even vegetables, floating in empyreumatic butter, make those who partake of them sickly and sallow. In Georgia fruits and vegetables grow hi abundance arid in great variety. Sixty-four sorts of apples,

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fifty-five of peaches--and such peaches !--thirtythree kinds of grapes, thirty of pears, eighteen of plums, sixteen of cherries, thirteen of nec tarines, twelve of apricots, twelve of figs, five of quinces, and three of mulberries: all in this one State. The water-melons, oranges, strawberries, lemons, and bananas besides lend their attrac tion to this inviting garden of endless delights.
While in Thomasville we heard a good man discourse on the words "Who hath ears" (he called them airs) " to hear, let him hear." He was undoubtedly in earnest, but his voice was harsh and unpleasant, his utterance loud, monotonous, and without a pause. He was destitute of illustration, and he lacked the per suasiveness which oils the arrow of truth with the grace of life. A minister may preach on damnation even, and yet preach, as M'Cheyne of Scotland said, " with tenderness." We find too generally among ministers a want of that elocution of the lip and eloquence of the heart without which all assertion, argument, and ap peal, however fervid, may be labour of value expended in vain. The people of Thomasville whom, we encountered we found to be wellinformed and kind, and we departed with re gret that our visit was so short.

CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE ARTESIAN CITY.
miles from Thomasville and two hundred and fiftyeight from Savannah is Albany, another health-resort, with which we^are much pleased. It was laid out in 1836, and the sound mind which planned it then in a sound body inhabits it still. Its surname, the Artesian City, is derived from its artesian well, whose water is celebrated for its cures of dys pepsia, rheumatism, and other diseases to which human flesh is heir. The well is 750 feet in depth, and emits a perpetual supply of twentyfive gallons to the minute. ' Besides this public well there are private springs in other parts of the city. Carbonates of lime and magnesia are the principal ingredients; all, therefore, who wish their medicine ready mixed and without money

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may come hither to drink. The soil of Albany is porous, the drainage perfect, the atmosphere mild and dry. Quail-shooting in the winter is unsur passed. The people are hospitable and refined. With more hotel accommodation of a superior order it must increase in favour with fugitives from the snows and storms of less congenial climes. Fifty years hence this little one will have become a thousand, and the small Albany a strong city. Its walls will be salvation and its gates praise. In that day, through the length and breadth of Georgia, so rich in its natural resources, so magnificent in its climate, so affluent in its productions, so intelligent in its people, capitalists will be found from all parts of the world to work the mines, to till the soil, to reap the fortunes, to eat the fruits, to multiply the citizens, of this royal commonwealth.

CHAPTER XL.
AMERICUS.
MERICUS is America in a diminu tive, yet not small enough to be insignificant. This little city is the home of six thousand souls, is
situated on high ground, and boasts a produc tiveness which for variety compares, to its credit, vrith any other portion of the South. All kinds of cereals, garden vegetables, and fruit are here brought forth in abundance. The air is pure and palliates diseases of the throat and lungs. The inhabitants of Americus are industrious, enterprising, literary, progressive; ever ready to welcome visitors from abroad, especially if they are disposed to make themselves at home. In other words, .they believe in immigration as the hope of the "State. Like every other town of any size in the country, Americus has its

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daily paper. It is impossible to over-estimate the influence upon a young community of its periodical press. With many it is the only scripture they read on Sunday, the only library which they consult during the week. It not only furnishes them with tidings from afar and local news, with mercantile and maritime intelli gence, with information oftnings to come; but it also forms their vocabulary, moulds their opinions, colours their education, affects or infects their morals, hinders or helps their religion. The press of Georgia is not perfect: what press is ? But we believe that those who manage this mighty engine recognise their power, and strive to carry the long train of consequences along the track which will ter minate in the enlightenment and enlargement of Georgia's posterity.

CHAPTER XL'I.
COLUMBUS.
we leave the South-Western Rail way at Fort Valley, thirty miles from Macon, and, taking the Cen tral line, go west for seventy miles, we come to a thriving city which bears the name of America's discoverer. Columbus was estab lished in 1828, shortly after the removal of the Creek Indians. In that year its population did not exceed 300. Its present population, in cluding the suburbs, is nearly 30,^00. Columbus is called the Lowell, or, as we might say ih England, the Manchester of the South, on account of its many manufacturing interests. It stands on the bank of the Chattahoochee river, at the foot of the Coweta Falls. It possesses the finest natural water-power in this country. According to a State survey, there is
N

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a motive power available at this point equal to that of 36,000 horses; and yet not a tenth of this is in use. Canals are unnecessary, dams being sufficient The Columbus Manufacturing Works run 4500 spindles and 150 looms; yet their dam, between two islands, cost only five hundred dollars. Altogether there are eleven cotton and woollen mills in successful operation, with 58,168 spindles and 2004 looms,'con suming annually 17,880 bales of cotton. The Columbus Ironworks are the largest south of Richmond. The cotton receipts in this market averaged in the past five years over 100,000 bales. The business of the city amounts to about ten million dollars in sales in one year.
Returning by way of Fort Valley and Macon, we regain Savannah, having gone over 1200 miles of railroad in the State, or 2250 miles including returns. The total mileage of rail ways in Georgia is 3200, and other lines are being projected and built

CHAPTER -XL 11.
SUMMING UP.
HIS distance might easily have been covered in a week, instead of which the tour has extended over four months. Time has been
taken for intercourse with the people in their vocations and homes, so that their general characteristics might be correctly ascertained Being called upon to officiate publicly every Sunday in pulpits of the Baptist, Lutheran, Methodist, or Presbyterian denomination, in some cases in pulpits of the coloured churches, and to lecture frequently through the week, we had opportunity of judging the religious and literary condition of the several communities. Being admitted to cordial communication and hearty hospitality among all classes, from the

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governor of the State to the least prominent of citizens, it was possible for us to glean infor mation from every field, and to so compare opinions of diverse minds that the truth with out exaggeration or distortion might be educed. The statements which are herein made are not "founded on fact," but facts themselves; the figures in some cases, having to be taken from authorised reports a year old, are rather below than beyond the truth. Nothing is painted with rose-colour for the sake of effect The conclusion which every honest inquirer is com pelled to arrive at surely is, that Georgia is a grand State, equal to any in the American Union; vast enough to afford ample room for ten millions of population, where now there are less than two; various enough in climate, soil, and productions to suit men of all tastes, trades, and professions; and destined to be one of the theatres in which some of the most urgent pro blems of over-taxed peoples in over-crowded countries will exhibit their practical solutioa Great Britain is a mother who has children doing well in every quarter of the globe. British emigration gave birth to Georgia, and British emigration will aid its development to fullgrown maturity.

SUMMING UP.

197

THE SUNNY SOUTH.
I SING the land where many States are one, Where Europe's setting is a noonday sun ; Where ancient form and antiquated creed <3ive place to youthful power and noble deed.
New England in the East revives the Old; The West supplies the world with grain and gold ; The South grows out of war and weakness strong ; The Three would form a theme for endless song.
While Washington remains a household name. While "Stonewall" Jackson reaps eternal fame, And Robert Lee a. lustrous hero shines, The South shall flourish like " a land of vines."
The curse of slavery, which long was spared, Which Northern States and England once had shared, Is now removed ; the incubus of night Departed with the dawn of higher light.
Abuses had attended in its tram ; Both white and black were poisoned with its bane ; And scribes, no word of mercy in their mouth, Were glad accusers of the guilty South.
At length the day for abolition came; The " Rebel " bore the undivided blame, While Pharisees, forgetful of their own, For her transgressions set their judgment-throne.
Just Heaven looked on with pity in His eye, Beheld her victim's tears and heard his cry, Then bade the South the bondman's rights restore, And sent her on her way to sin no more.
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t

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Let no man say she sinned and suffered not; She bore a crushing blow for every blot; But while her brothers would have wrought her'death, Her God restored her with immortal breath. ,,

Since then her progress tike the shining light, Has onward moved with swift advancing might; The white and black in mutual trust increase, And break the bread of fellowship in peace.

Malicious slanders oft are spread abroad; - The tongue of bate, a vile envenomed sword.
Assassin-like, would stab her growing fame, And sell her blood for silverh'ngs of shame.

Let none who hear the right and love the true Confide in that calumniating crew, Who lie for party, policy, or pay, And slaughter reputations for their prey.

The Sooth is human, liable to err--

Let such as sin not cast a stone at her ;

But let her fiercest foes stand still and see,

.,

Her prospect is a grand prosperity.

BallantynePress; Edinburgh

Recently Published,
With Eight Curious Illustrations, 8uo, cloth, gilt top,
MOON LORE.
BY
THE REV. TIMOTHY HARLEY, F.R.A.S.
"A good deal can be learned from it. Mr. Harley is attractive and readable. He has been diligent in gathering, and he certainly writes in an easy, confiding, familiar way." -- British Quarterly Review.
"To speak of the work as tight literature does less than justice to the extensive learning and phenomenal industry of the author. But if it is not exactly light literature, we readily grant that it is far more entertaining than much that passes by that name."-- Westminster Review.
" It gives evidence of very wide reading, and it is written in a bright and lively style, and does not theorise over much."--Contemporary Review.
"Mr. Harley has read a large number of modern autho rities, and his notes, collected at the end of the book, are of real service to the folk-lorists. He usually writes to the pur pose."--Saturday Review.
" In Mr. Harley's volume there is a good deal to praise." -- The Academy.
"A chatty, charmingly-written book on 'Moon Lore.' Mr. Harley is very thorough, as well as very amusing. His volume will repay perusaL"--Graphic. \

" Mr. Harfey has consulted many authorities, and brought together moch interesting information on the subject which hitherto has been scattered about in many books."--Notts and Queries.
" It is a wonder nobody has collected all this varied matter together in a handy and readable form. At length it has been done, and, from what we have read, done well!"-- Science Gossip.
"The most comprehensive volume we have seen on the 'subject of moon lore. It is a work that will be perused with pleasure, combining as it does a vast amount of scholarly information, intermingled with light and amusing reading." --Bookseller.
"A remarkably readable book. The reader will find it difficult to lay the book aside without going completely through it."--Publisher? Circular.
"The learned author of this treatise--and he is also a very pleasant companion--amuses us with the store of tradi tion and superstition which he has gathered about his old friend the moon." -- Court Journal.
" Will afford abundant entertainment."--Daily Chronicle.
" Curious, as well as highly entertaining."--MorningPost. " Contains a vast amount of out-of-the-way information." --Scotsman. " Would be a valuable addition to the Horary of every cultured person."-- Morning News, Savannah, Georgia, U.S.A.
LONDON: SWAN SONXENSCHEIN, LE BAS & LOWREY.