An interpretive guide to the Tennessee Rock Trail / by Anthony Lampros and Dustin Warner ; illustrated by Marie Wild

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Black RockMountain State Park, Georgia's highest recreation area, encompasses more

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than 1800 acres along the spine of the southern Blue Ridge Mountains. While many park visitors are most familiar with Black Rock's rental cottages, campgrounds, picnic

areas, and scenic overlooks, well over 90% of the park is completely undeveloped. For

quite a few visitors, this unspoiled backcountJj is the real Black Rock, the portion of the park that

they enjoy the most. These deep forests, well away from the hustle and bustle of the park's

frontcountry areas, can't be enjoyed from a car. Only by getting ou t and hiking the trails can visitors

experience the unique plant and animal life that makes Black Rock Mountain so special.

The yellow-blazed, 2.2-mile Tennessee Rock Trail, winding its way through some of the park's highest and lushest forests, is the park's most popular hiking trail. Rated by experienced hikers as "easy to moderate," the trail offers visitors a perfect opportunity to get better acquainted with this area's rich forests and woodlands.

You will notice that the text in this guide is keyed to numbered markers along the trail. Illustrations will help you identifY some of the species mentioned in the text, but since there's not enough room to draw a picture of everything, you may choose to bring along a conventional tree, bird, or wildflower book.

If you're only wishing to learn the names ofsome of the species you may run across, this guide
will help you, but it's intended to be more than a simple listing of what is growing along the trail. This booklet will give you information about the special forest ecology ofthe SouthernAppalachians. It also mentions Indians and early pioneers, and there's even some facts thrown in about the special
geology and geography of this unique area. This guide will certainly help make your hike more meaningful, and as you'll quickly learn, there's a lot more to be . found along the trail than "just a bunch of trees."
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Appalachian forests are made up of a variety of different habitats, and each one supports a certain group ofplants and animals. These species
have become adapted to the specific conditions found in their patticular habitat, and they live together as a community.

As you hike along the Tennessee Rock Trail, pay attention to these different communities, and notice how they are influenced by the environment in which
they're located. Some communities require

cool, moist conditions, while others prefer drier, sunny environments. Some plants and animals are usually encountered at higher elevations or on ridgetops; other groups are more common on lower slopes. And some species seem to be found most anywhere. Indeed, this variety will serve to make your hike more interesting.
Due to the number of hikers who use the trail, several thousand each year, certain rules are necessary to ensure that the trail's natural features are preserved for the enjoyment of hikers who follow you. Please observe the regulations listed below, and have a safe and enjoyable hike.
TRAIL REGULATIONS
1. Please do not pick wildflowers, break twigs, or collect leaves from trees.
2. Allow all rocks, branches, and limbs to remain in place. 3. Do not feed or disturb the park's wildlife. 4. Be sure to stay on the trail - do not shortcut switchbacks. 5. Dogs must remain on leashes no longer than six feet. 6. Do not smoke while hiking - cigarette ashes or discarded butts may
start a fire. 7. This trail is designed for daytime hiking only - overnight camping
is restricted to the park's designated camping areas. 8. Horses, mountain bikes, motorcycles, and ATVs are prohibited on
all sections of the trail. 9. When hiking with children, stay together. Do not allow children to
lag behind or run ahead. 10. Please do not litter. Observe the old saying "take only pictures,
leave only footprints."
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After climbing the steps,

take a

short break and have

a look at the structure of the

forest around you. Not including the

soil itself, botanists often divide the forest

into five vertical layers. The canopy is the top layer,

formed by the mass of interrwined limbs, branches, and

leaves oftall, mature trees. The second layer, the understory,

is made up of shorter trees, often the same species as the

trees of the canopy.

Below the understory is the shrub layer, comprised of bushes, taller woody plants, and very young trees. The next layer is the herb layer, consisting mostly of ferns and wildflowers which grow no more than a few
feet above the forest floor. Finally, the ground layer includes mosses, lichens, mushrooms, dead leaves, and rotting logs.

During most of your hike, you will be walking through a hardwood forest which is in a near-climax stage in its life cycle. Essentially, this means that unless something drastic happens, like a fire, a major wind
blow-down, or a severe ice storm, the composition and nature of the forest is becoming stable. Some Appalachian forest communities, such as pine stands,
are not stable at all. They may look permanent, but over time they will give way to a mixture of hardwoods. First, hardwood saplings begin to appear. As they grow taller, they slowly begin to shade out the pines around them, and these sunloving evergreens no longer thrive. Eventually, if the forest is left undisturbed, pines disappear, and mature hardwoods take over completely, resulting in what is called a climax deciduous forest.

In other regions, growing conditions are different, and climax-stage forests are not represented by hardwoods. In parts of the northern United States and on some of the highest peaks in the SouthernAppalachians, for instance,
you will find climax forests ofspruce and fir which are well-suited for cold and snowy conditions.

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At this location is an old log which nature is in the process of recycling. The log's moist surface is covered by a thick growth of moss, whose roots extend down into the decaying wood. These roots, along with the help ofdecomposing bacteria, fungi, and insects, are breaking down the nutrients stored in the wood, making them available to nourish

other plants. Without this natural process of decay, downed trees, fallen limbs, and dead leaves

would be piled high on the forest floor, and nutrients for fresh new growth would be locked away.

A number oflarge White Oaks grow on either side of the trail. These trees are found in forests throughout much of the eastern United States, and they're an important source oflumber. Much of Black Rock Mountain's timber was logged in the early 1900s before the park was established, and White Oaks that have grown since then average berween 60 and 80 feet in height with trunk diameters of up to rwo feet. At places in the southern mountains where virgin stands remain, White Oaks can reach heights ofover 100 feet with trunks up to four feet across. Trees this big can be over 500 years old.

White Oak acorns are edible, and they're quite sweet. Cherokee Indians once ground them into meal for use in bread-making, and they remain an important fall food source for a variery of birds and such mammals as squirrels, chipmunks, and Whitetail Deer.

Two interesting plants here in the herb layer that bloom during the spring are Solomon's-seal and Solomon's-plume, sometimes called False Solomon's-seal. Solomon's-seal has a stout, arching stem from rwo to four feet in length. Along the stem are a number a broad, parallel-veined leaves which are three to six inches long. Hanging under the leaves are a number ofdrooping, bell-shaped flowers. These flowers will develop into blue-colored berries.

Solomon's-plume also has an arching stem, but it is usually shorter than Solomon's-seal, and it zig-zags slightly. This plant's feathery plume of white flowers develop at the end of the stem. These flowers will turn into small yellow and white berries which later become cherry-red in color or a somewhat translucent-pink with tiny red specks.

Solomon's-plume

During most of the year, thiS small spring creates a very moist habitat, and groups of

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lush ferns grow along the bank. During dry periods, the water flow may slow to a trickle, but rarely does the spring dry-up completely. Several yards downhill, growing in the

shrub layer, IS Rosebay Rhododendron. Sometimes referred to as Great Laurel,

rhododendron is a large evergreen shrub often growing to heights of 10 or 12 feet. The leaves are

thick and dark green with a leathery texture that helps retain moisture. Leaves are clustered toward

the end of the branches where light yellowish-green flower buds develop into pinkish-white

flowers. Rhododendron is very common throughout the southern mountains, especially at higher

elevations and on north-facing slopes.

If you'll look around. you should have little trouble spotting the sharp-toothed leaves of American Chestnut. Sprouts of this once-mighty tree are common along much of the trail, and there are quite a few growing around this spring. Until the early 1900s, American Chestnut was one of the dominant trees found in eastern forests. Its valuable lumber had many commercial uses, and nuts were a major food source for much of the region's wildlife.

Around 1904, however, a fungus bark disease was introduced into the New York Ciry area. apparently from Asia, and quickly spread throughout the chestnut population. Within 35 to 40 years, the "chestnut blight" had virtually eliminated this great tree. Except for the saplings which still sprout from the old stumps and roots, chestnut trees no longer have a significant presence in the forest. The blight is still present today, and seldom do these young chestnut sprouts grow very large before they, too. become affected by the disease and die.

This cove contains many mature trees including a number of Chestnut Oaks.

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Som~times called R?ck O.ak due to its ~reference for rocky. gro~ing sites, Chestnut Oak IS usually a medIum-sized tree grOWIng 50 to 60 feet tall, with a trunk diameter

of one to rwo feet. This tree produces very large, protein-rich acorns, providing

much food for wildlife.

Look for Sassafras growing in the understory. Young Sassafras saplings are common in the shrub layer. Not a particularly tall tree, Sassafras seldom reaches heights of over 50 feet. Its leaves have four different shapes. Some leaves have three lobes. Others somewhat resemble a righthanded mitten, having a large lobe to the left and a smaller "thumb lobe" to the right. Leaves with lobes shaped like left-handed mittens are also found, and some leaves are oval-shaped and have no lobes at all.

Sassafras rwigs are pleasantly aromatic, and they are browsed by rabbits and deer. Bluish-black berries are eaten by turkey, bear, and a variety ofsongbirds, and nectar from the tree's blossoms is collected by bees. Spicy-tasting Sassafras tea is made by boiling the outer bark of the tree's roots.

If you're hiking during the springtime while Flame Azalea is still in bloom, you'll have very
little trouble recognizing it. This deciduous shrub, a member of the Heath Family, can often grow tall enough to be considered a small tree, and it produces orange blossoms that are so brilliantly-
colored that many people believe it is the region's most spectacular flowering species. Flame Azalea leaves are 11/ to rwo inches long and have extremely fine hairs on them. These are best seen by
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looking at the edges of the leaf or by examining the veins on the leafs bottom side.

Pi/eated Woodpecker

American Chestnut

During the early hours of the morning. hikers can sometimes hear the loud, ringing call of the Pileated Woodpecker. This crow-sized bird, the largest woodpecker native to this region, is mostly black in color with white neck stripes and a prominent red crest. Unlike some other woodpecker spec.ies which have become endangered or extinct. the Pileated Woodpecker is adept at adjusting to dIfferent habitats and changing conditions. While generally preferring forested areas, this bird can be found on farmlands and even in large towns and cities.

Chestnut Oak

Sassafras

and flies.

Soft leaves and plants are ideal foods for forest vegetarians, and by examining leaves more closely you will discover traces ofnibbling by insect larvae, snails, slugs, rabbits, mice, and certain birds. Strange looking "hieroglyphics" and other unusual patterns that are sometimes visible on leaves are mostly the work of the larvae ofvarious moths

There are numerous tiny rodents in the forest. Some, like the White-footed Mouse, are omnivorous, meaning they will eat both plant and animal material. These mice, also known as Wood Mice, eat a variety of seeds, nuts, and leaves, but they also SOrt through leaf mold on the ground looking for caterpillars and insects.
~other common forest rodent is the Eastern Chipmunk, a striped member of the Squirrel Famdy. Found across much of eastern North America, these ground-dwelling animals are fun to watch as they scurty around the woods stuffing nuts, seeds, and acorns into their large cheek pouches.
Chipmu~k burrows are often well-organized wirh a separate sleeping chamber, food storage area, and latnne. Some burrows have more than one entrance. Pantries can be large enough to store more than a half-bushel of food, enough to last the animals through the winter.

Eastern Cbtpmunk
fu you hike through this rocky, north-slope forest, you can find a variety of wildflowers, including White Woodland futer and Mountain Goldenrod. Both species begin to blossom late in the summer and remain in bloom until October. White Woodland Aster grows one to two feet tall and has clusters ofwhite flowers no more than an inch across. The center disc, initially yellow, becomes purplish in color as the season progresses. Heart-shaped leaves are three to six inches long and sharply-toothed.
Mountain Goldenrod is a taller herb, sometimes growing to heights of four feet. Pairs of pointed leaves grow opposite each other up and down the stem, and along the stem's upper end, at rhe base of the leaves, are clusters of tiny, yellow flowers. Other fall wildflowers growing in this area include White Snakeroot and lavender-colored Arrow-leaved futer.

The jumble of large rocks on the slope in front of you is a small boulderfield, an

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interesting climate-related phenomenon which is a product of the Pleistocene period. During this time, which ended about 10,000 years ago, North America experienced

its grear "ice age." Unlike more northerly portions of the United States, the Southern

Appalachians were never covered by glaciers. Even so, this region's climate was much colder back

then than it is now. Winters were long and harsh with large amounts of ice and snow, especially

at higher altitudes.

During this period, on the ridge several hundred feet above you, water seeping into rocky crevasses repeatedly froze and expanded. Over a period of many years, this ice action slowly pried loose rocks from the cliff face, where they rolled down the mountain slope, coming to rest where you see them today.

Due to the special conditions which had to exisr for these areas to develop, boulderfields are

not found just anywhere. In the southern mountains, they generally occur above 3000 feet in

elevation and only in vety moist, north-facing coves. Rocks on south-facing slopes were exposed

ro more sunshine, and they remained too warm for significant amounts of ice-wedging action to

occur.

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During the summertime, the boulderfield's moss-covered rocks are almost hidden beneath the
dense herb layer. In addition to a number <1f moisture-loving ferns, you can find a variery of
wildflowers including Umbrella-Leaf, Jewelweed, Black Cohosh, White Snakeroot, and Canada Violets.
Mayapples are abundant throughout this rich area. They are easily recognized by a pair oflarge, stalked, umbrella-like leaves on a one to two-foot stem. In the spring, a solitary flower hangs in the fork of the leaves. It will develop into a large, yellow, edible berry which is prized by forest animals. By mid-summer, Mayapples begin to turn yellow and wilt.
Another very common herb is Virginia Spiderwort. Look for the purple-colored blossom and very long, narrow leaves. You can find it growing here and at many other places along the trail.
This boulderfield is fascinating in many ways, but resist any urge to walk beyond the crosstie barrier. Climbing on the rocks is dangerous, and it can easily damage this special area's fragile ecology.

Vtrgtnta Sptderwort Ii

Mayapple

Just a few feet to the right of this post is an old Black Locust. These trees are common in eastern forests, and they're fast growing, particularly the young sprouts. Locusts have very fragrant blossoms, and in late spring and early summer, hikers can sometimes smell the sweet aroma from the tree's drooping clusters of white flowers.
Locust wood is extremely hard and strong, and it was prized by early settlers because of its resistance to decay and insect attack. Many old split-rail fences were made oflocust, and locust posts supporting barbed-wire fences are a common sight today. The wood is also used to make railroad ties.
Just up the hill from the locust is a single evergreen known as Eastern Hemlock. While this species doesn't have the perfect symmetry of a spruce or fir, hemlocks still have somewhat of a Christmas tree profile with wider branches near the bottom steadily tapering to a point at the top. Their dark-green needles are short and flat, and they have very small cones. Hemlocks prefer moisture-rich soils and cool growing conditions. While you only see one growing right here, they're more prevalent in other areas of the park, particularly along stream banks further down the mountain.

Ruffed Grouse

Dense stands of hemlock sometimes provide an excellent winter refuge for certain birds and small mammals. The thick tangle of evergreen branches gives animals good cover from snow and harsh winter winds. One game bird which often nests under hemlock branches is the Ruffed Grouse, a brownish-colored, chicken-sized bird which, in the Georgia mountains, is at the southern limit of its eastern range.
Male grouse, when courting, are known for the loud drumming sound they make with their wings. During the spring, they'll often sit on a log and begin to flap their wings in the air, slowly at first, then increasing rapidly in tempo to produce this hollow "drum roll." Females make a soft clucking sound.

Many smaller birds in the forest communicate by singing to each other. Singing allows them to establish and maintain their own territory, and during breeding season, it helps them to attract mates while warding off birds of the same gender.

Listening to the music of songbirds and trying to pin-point the source adds a lot to any hike, particularly ifyou're on the trail early in the morning or late in the evening. Many birds are actively searching for food during these periods, and their singing makes them easier to find. During the middle of the day, most birds are rather quiet, and locating them requires greater effort.

The number of songbirds in North American forests has declined in recent years. Many bird species that summer in the temperate forests of the Southern Appalachians and elsewhere in the United States fly south in the wintertime to places in Central and South America. In many areas, rapid deforestation is occuring as massive amounts of timber are harvested for lumber and land is cleared for cattle grazing. Even here in the United States, continuous development has resulted in the loss of both forests and wetlands. All of this habitat destruction is taking a toll on songbirds, and serious conservation efforts are now more important than ever if these birds are to continue to thrive.

Eastern Hemlock

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As you're hiking through the woods, look and listen for signs of wildlife. Animals are plentiful in this forest, but you won'r always see rhem. Many crearures are most acrive ar night and seldom venture our during daylighr hours. Others are very shy by nature and will quickly rerrear ar rhe firsr sound of an approaching hiker.

The key ro successful animal warching is ro become familiar with an animal's habirs. Do a lirrle homework and find our what rime of day rhe animal is mosr acrive, whar ir ears, and whar kind of habirar the animal prefers. You may also wish ro learn a lirrle abour rhe animal's maring behavior and be able ro recognize various animal signs which will indicare whar species are present in a specific area of rhe woods.

All rhis knowledge will give you some good clues as ro when and where ro posirion yourself. Then rry ro be very srill, very quier, and very parient. Warchingwildlife rakes some efforr and a lirrle pracrice, bur the resulrs can be well worrh rhe rrouble.

If you ger our in rhe early morning hours from March ro May, one game species you may be lucky enough ro encounter is rhe Wild Turkey. Lisren for rhe familiar gobble of rhe "rom" as he srrurs around spreading his rail fearhers in an efforr ro arrracr one of his several hens. Somerimes, as rhe male gobbles, a hen can be heard yelping in response. Hens lay an average of ren ro twelve eggs which harch four weeks larer.

Turkeys are relarively common now and rhey're ofren seen on Black Rock Mountain, bur rheir numbers were once rhrearened. Early in rhe 1900s, habirar desrrucrion and unchecked hun ring had raken irs roll, and Wild Turkeys in many areas were gone. Before reinrroducrion began, very few birds were lefr in Georgia. Forrunarely, rhe concerred efforrs of rhe Georgia Game & Fish Commission (now DNR's Wildlife Resources Division) and rhe cooperarion ofseveral sporrsmen's associarions allowed rhe Wild Turkey ro make a rremendous comeback in rhis srare.

In areas open ro seasonal hunting, careful management and vigorous law enforcemenr ensure rhar healrhy rurkey popularions will be maintained. In park areas such as Black Rock Mountain, hunting is prohibired, and turkeys, like all other forms of wildlife, are protected year-round.

Wt/d Turkey

Eastern Whtte ptne
Since rhe lasr posr, you have probably noriced a rarher drama ric change in rhe foresr around you. From rhe beginning ofrhe rrail, you have been hiking rhrough hardwoods, bur you've now entered a foresr which primarily consisrs of Easrern Whire Pine, a norrhern conifer whose range exrends down rhe Appalachians into North Georgia.
Norice rhe relarivescarcityofundersrory, shrub, and herb layer plants. Obviously, some species exisr, bur in mosr places rhe canopy is rhick year-round, and nor as much sunlighr filrers down ro rhe forest floor.
In this region, pines are considered ro be a "pioneer" species, quick ro esrablish rhemselves on barren or unforesred land in the wake ofsome type ofecological disruprion such as a fire or timber sale. This 25-acre srand was basically a clearing until the early 1950s when the park was esrablished. Since rhen, white pines have seeded-in ro form rhe evergreen foresr you see now.
Notice how a number of rrees, some ramer large, have had rheir rops snapped offor have been complerely uprooted. One major disadvantage that pines have during harsh moun rain winters is thar rheir needles carch and hold heavy amounts of ice and snow. If rhe weighr on a rree becomes roo great, its rrunk or roor sysrem gives way or large branches collapse. You can look around righr here and see rhe resulrs. Deciduous hardwoods, of course, have ir a lirrle easier. Their bare twigs and branches carch lirrle snow, and rhey don'r normally sustain nearly as much winter damage as do pines. A large number of rhe trees you see on the ground fell during the heavy snows and high winds of the infamous "Blizzard of '93" when the park received almosr 24 inches of frozen precipitarion. Additional trees collapsed or were damaged during Hurricane Opal in 1995.
Undamaged white pines can be aged fairly easily. Each year, trees develop a horizontal whorl of branches thar are spaced from one ro three feet apart. Whorls roward rhe base of older rrees are somerimes a lirrle difficulr ro see because rhe limbs broke off rhe rtee long ago, and scar rissue has grown over rhe old stubs. Ifyou'll look closely, however, you can usually derecr rhe place where rhe whorls of lower limbs were once locared by bumps or irregulariries in rhe bark's surface.
To age rhe rree, simply count rhe roral number of whorls from rhe ground up. If you rry rhis rechnique, you may find rhar rhe rop-mosr whorls are almosr impossible to accurarely count due ro rhick needle growrh. This is especially true wirh very raIl rrees. Even rho ugh you'll end up having to guess a lirrle, you can still come up wirh a good idea of rhe rree's age.

Few wildflowers grow on rhe dark foresr floor, bur Pink Lady's Slippers can occasionally be found here. This uncommon orchid has a large pinkcolored blossom whose shape gives rhe planr rhe nickname "Moccasin Flower". If you're forrunare enough ro spor one of rhese beauriful flowers, remember rhar ir, like all park planr and animal life, is prorecred by law. Leave ir undisrurbed for orhers ro enjoy.
A wildflower rhar is more commonly found in rhis pine foresr is Morrled Pipsissewa. Also known as Sporred Winrergreen, ir is a small evergreen planr wirh an erecr, flowering srem rhar is four ro eighr inches raIl. Each srem produces from one ro rhree small whire flowers in May, June and July. Irs leaves are poinred and deeply-roorhed wirh whirish srripes or bands down rhe middle.
Cherokee maidens once used Pipsissewa as a love charm. They would wear rhe roors of rhe planr around rheir necks hoping ro arrracr a handsome suiror.
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Mottled ptpstssewa

II) Look srraighr up ar rhe rrees above you. This area is definirely a foresr in rransirion. There are srill a large number ofWhire Pines all around, bur a solid pocker of Red Maples, Yellow Poplars, and a few Black Locusrs is esrablishing a good foorhold here, and rhese rrees are changing rhe characrer of rhis parr of rhe foresr.
Alrhough pine rrees in rhe area will conrinue ro flourish for a number of years, hardwoods will conrinue ro ger railer, rhicker, and more prevalenr, all ar rhe expense of rhe pines. Ir will rake a while, bur ar some poinr in rhe furure, assuming rhar no fire or similar disasrer wipes our all rhe rrees, mosr of rhe pines rhar exisr here now will be replaced by various hardwood species.
Occasional ice and snow srorms rhar fracrure and ropple large pines serve ro accelerare rhe narural process offoresr succession. This is especially rrue in an area like rhis one where so many hardwoods are becoming reesrablished.
Several species of maples grow in rhe sourhern mounrains including Red, Silver, Mounrain, Srriped, and Sugar. In foresrs on
Black Rock Mounrain, Red Maples are rhe mosr common, and rhis is rhe kind you can see here. Red Maples can grow ro heigh rs of up ro 90 feer, and rhey're one of rhe firsr rrees ro blossom each spring.
Red Maples rhrive in a wide variery ofhabirars, ranging from moisr srream banks ro drier, sourh-facingslopes, and rhey are ofren one ofrhe firsr hardwood species ro become
esrablished in rhe wake of some foresr disrurbance such as a fire. Red Maples, as rheir name suggesrs, provide much of rhe brillianr red color seen during rhe fall, bur
some of rhem acrually rurn orange or yellow.
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II~I

Take a close look at the large Yellow Poplar a few feet above the trail. It's hard to see now, but what remains of a lightning scar runs down the inside of the tree's left fork. The lightning strike occurred during the summer of 1992, and the massive electrical charge blew away the bark from top to botrom. Even with all this damage, the tree's

left fork continued to leaf-out for several years before finally dying.

Summertime thunderstorms, complete with intensive lightning, are common across the Southern Appalachians and are the source of much of the rain this forest receives. As the amount of heat and humidity in the lowlands increases, warm, moist air rises into the sky to build large clouds called thunderheads. As these clouds move northward and rise over the mountains, the moisture in the clouds condenses to the point where raindrops form and fall toward the ground. These showers can sometimes be extremely heavy.

Rabun Counry, Georgia and adjacent sections of North and South Carolina average between 60 and 80 inches of precipitation a year, making this region the wettest area in the eastern United States. Certain parts of Rabun Counry, including Black Rock Mountain State Park, often receive over 80 inches ofprecipitation, and during some extremely wet years, more than 100 inches of rain has been recorded. That's a lot! To put this amount of rainfall in perspective, consider Seattle, Washington. This northwestern city has a reputation for being one of the nation's rainiest places, yet it averages a mere 39 inches of rain each year. Here in Rabun County, a yearly rain total of 39 inches would represent a serious drought.

Certainly, wet weather in the southern mountains can occasionally wreak havoc on outdoor activities (including hiking), but this ample moisture makes possible this area's luxurious plant life, which so many people treasure.

Just up the trail, the White Pine forest ends, and you'll re-enter deciduous woods. Notice the increase in herb and shrub layer growth in places where sunshine is plentiful.

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As you approach the crest of the ridge, the forest canopy is a little thinner, and the extra sunlight produces a thick herb and shrub layer. Mixed hardwoods include poplar, hickory, oak, and maple. Sourwood also occurs here. This tree has long, slender clusters of white, bell-shaped flowers during the summertime, and it is often one of the first

trees to start changing color during the fall. At the peak ofleaf season, the tree's leaves are bright

red. Sourwood honey is very popular, and it can be found at many roadside stands throughout the

southern mountains.

Growing in the area is a mixture ofVirginia Creeper and Poison Ivy. Both plants can grow as vines and be found climbing trees or they can sprawl on the ground. Here, they're doing a little of both. Sometimes people will see Virginia Creeper and mistakenly identifY it as Poison Ivy, but ifyou compare them here, you can see the difference. Virginia Creeper, which can be handled without ill effects, has five toothed leaflets that radiate off the stem like spokes on a wheel. Poison Ivy, on the other hand, has three leaflets, and the center leaflet has a longer stalk than the other two. The edges of Poison Ivy leaflets can vary. Some leaflets may have a few teeth while other leaflets won't. Often, leaflets have one or two teeth on one edge while the opposite edge is smooth.

Another difference between the two plants is the color of their berries. Virginia Creeper produces dark blue-colored berries. Poison Ivy berries are white. Both kinds are poisonous if eaten by humans, but the berries provide an important supply of fall and winter food to a variety of songbirds and other kinds of wildlife.

With just a little practice, Poison Ivy is an easy plant to recognize and avoid, but still use caution and don't take chances. If you're not 100% sure of what you're handling, remember the old adage, "leaflets three, let it be!"

Potsonlvy

Vlrglnta Creeper

Branching off ro the right is a narrow side trail which leads ro the park's rental conages. Continue uphill here and begin a more northeasterly route which follows the crest of the mountain.
Wildflowers abound in the spring and summer. Trilliums, Solomon's-seal,Jack-in-the-Pulpit, and Pale Bergamot are just a few of the flower species that grow along this ridge. In the fall, Asters and Goldenrods are common. There's also more Poison Ivy at several places, so use caution ifyou're sensitive ro it.
Blackberries grow in thick, nearly impenetrable brambles in some places near the sides of the trail. They have white, solitary, five-petaled flowers that bloom in May and June, and the fruit ripens in July and August. Berries make up a good portion of the summertime diet of the park's Black Bears.
Over the years, Black Rock has been a hot spot for bear activiry in North Georgia, and park visirors sometimes have nervous questions about this large mammal, but most bears are very shy by nature and usually stay well out of the way of hikers.
While bears are primarily nocturnal, they can be seen most any rime of the day. The animals normally range over an eight ro ten square mile area, and they're usually solitary except during mating season in early summer. Cubs weighing about a half-pound are born in January and February. Adult bears rypically weigh between 150 and 400 pounds, but bears in the Georgia mountains have been known ro approach 600 pounds. A 315-pound bear that was struck by a vehicle in 1989 is on display at the park visiror center.
Bears are technically classified as carnivores or "meat-eaters", but they will feed on almost anything. In addition ro berries, their diet includes roots, nuts, insects, insect larvae, small mammals, carrion, and honey. As a number of Black Rock campers have discovered, bears will also eat groceries out of ice coolers and garbage out of trash cans. Watching mischievous bears is amusing, but caution is advised because bears are unpredictable and can move with amazing speed. Also, panhandling behavior is not natural and often leads ro habits that are detrimental ro a bear's long-term health. For these reasons, the intentional feeding of bears is strictly prohibited in state and national parks.

Black Bear

Blackberry

Mockernut Htckory

Ptgnut Htckory

CD

As you near the summit, notice some of the hickory trees that can be found throughout the forest. There are about a dozen species of hickories that grow in the eastern United States. In this part ofthe Southern

Appalachians, the three most common varieties are the Pignut,

Binernut, and Mockernut Hickories. All three species grow ro

heights of about 80 feet, and they each have compound leaves

with finely saw-roothed, lance-shaped leaflets. The number of

leaflets per leaf varies somewhat from tree ro tree. Pignut leaves

usually have five leaflets, while Binernut and Mockernut leaves

usually have either seven or nine.

Hickory nuts are eaten by a number of animals including squirrels, chipmunks, and turkeys. Twigs provide food for rabbits and deer. The wood from hickories is heavy and strong, and it is used in making furniture, rool handles, and gun srocks. It is also a very popular rype of firewood and produces a high-grade charcoal. Hickory is considered by many people ro be the best wood available for smoking hams. To a lot of folks, the terms "hickory-smoked" and "good flavor" mean essentially the same thing.

After gazing up at some ofthese sturdy hickories, look around and see if you can spot any wild grape vines. Fox Grapes are common in many areas of the park, and the woody vine can be found growing on a number of trees along this particular section of the trail. The vine's tendrils wrap and twist around branches and twigs and allow the plant to climb ro heights of 60 feet or more. Sometimes, shrubs and medium-size trees can be completely covered.

Fox Grapes are a favorite food for many birds, and they're enjoyed by mammals like opossums and foxes. The grapes are popular with people, roo. The fruit can be made into a very tasry jelly, as well as beverages like grape juice and wine.

At precisely 3640 feet above sea level, the summit of Black Rock Mountain is both the park's highest point and the highest place in Georgia's state park sysrem. The mountain's official elevation was determined in 1988 by a United States Geological Survey team.
It's easy to see that the mountain's summit is heavily forested with no natural openings. With the exception of the winter months when the leaves are down, the view here is a bir limited. Still, it's a good place to catch your breath for a moment and consider some interesting aspects of this area's geography.
Black Rock Mountain is located on the backbone of the scenic range of peaks, ridges, valleys, plateaus, and gorges known collectively as the Blue Ridge Mountains. The name "Blue Ridge" is a result of the region's natural haze which, when viewed from a distance, gives the range a bluish hue. The Blue Ridge Mountains comprise the easternmost part ofthe Southern Appalachians, and the range played an important role in the early development of the United States by limiting the western movement of pioneers. The mountains were a formidable barrier to wagon travel, and natural crossing points were few.
The Blue Ridge Mountains begin at 3290-foot Mount Oglethorpe, located 50 miles due north of Adanta. From that point, the range zig-zags across northeast Georgia, northwestern South Catolina, western North Carolina, and Virginia. Beyond Virginia, the Blue Ridge Mountains cross narrow parts of West Virginia and Maryland before ending in south-central Pennsylvania.
Blue Ridge Mountain peaks range in height from approximately 2500 feet to almost 6000 feet. Virginia's Shenandoah National Park sits astride the northern Blue Ridge and is traversed by the famous lOS-mile Skyline Drive. In that scenic region, peaks rarely exceed 4000 feet. To the south, the Blue Ridge Mountains become much higher. In North Carolina, the range reaches its highest point on 5964-foot Grandfather Mountain.
Even as far south as Georgia, the Blue Ridge Mountains remain relatively high with a number of peaks above 4000 feet. 4696-foot Rabun Bald and 4640-foot Dicks Knob are good examples. Both of these Rabun Counry peaks are within a few miles of Black Rock Mountain and are easily visible from various park overlooks.

Scenic Vista from Cowee Overlook. Black Rock Mountain Parkway.
To gain a better perspective of this region's topography, you may be interested in the visitor center's raised-relief map exhibit. It portrays the southern end of the Blue Ridge Mountains and identifies many of the other major mountain ranges which make up the Southern Appalachians.
One additional note for local geography buffs: Rabun Counry has three major rivers-the Tallulah, the Litde Tennessee, and the "wild and scenic" Chattooga, made famous in the movie "Deliverance". Here on the summi t of Black Rock Mountain is the only spot where the wa tersheds of all three rivers come together.
Rainfall draining northward off the mountain's summit reaches the Litrle Tennessee. Water running both toward the south and to the east flows to the Chattooga. The summit's westward run-off eventually enters the Tallulah. The map below will illustrate the respective locations of these three watersheds.
As soon as you leave the summit and resume hiking, you will leave behind the Tallulah basin and begin walking along the ridge which separates the basin of the Litde Tennessee from that of the Chattooga. This ridge forms one short segment of the great Eastern Continental Divide. Park visitors frequendy ask about the significance of the Divide, and you'll get a more detailed description of this fascinating geographical feature just ahead at Post #19.

'", LITTLE TENNESSEE RIVER

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. BASIN

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.. ,,; P...\o ; '

"

\ TALLULAH RIVER

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Tennessee Rock Overlook

BASIN

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" 1 Black Rock Mm.

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el. 3640'

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CHATTOOGA RIVER

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BASIN

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Wilmington

GULF OF MEXICO
Eastern Conttnental Divide

AnANTIC OCEAN
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For more than a quarter of a mile after reaching Black Rock Mountain's summit, the Tennessee Rock Trail follows the Eastern Conrinental Divide. This divide runs along the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains from southwestern Virginia to northeast

Georgia, then follows lower hills and ridges down through the center ofthe state roward

Florida. The Eastern Continental Divide, by definition, forms the watershed which separates rivers

flowing eascward roward the Adantic Ocean from those trending wescward ro the GulfofMexico.

While hiking along the backbone of the ridge, you can easily visualize how rainfall running off the mountain can go in two different directions. Water draining off the right side of the trail flows southeascward inro the Charrooga River, then the Tugalo River, and finally the Savannah River before reaching the Atlanric just beyond Savannah, Georgia.

Water running off the left side of the trail takes a far more circuitous roure. After flowing over scenic Sylvan Falls, water runs into Wolffork Valley where it enrers the Little Tennessee River. This river flows northward and fills Fonrana Lake in North Carolina at the southwestern edge of the Great Smoky Mounrains National Park. Just beyond Fontana Lake, the Little Tennessee leaves North Carolina and flows through a portion of eastern Tennessee before feeding into the larger Tennessee River near the town of Lenoir Ciry. From there, the Tennessee River flows through portions of several states and fills a number of great Tennessee Valley Aurhoriry reservoirs before entering the Ohio River just east of Paducah, Kentucky on the Kentucky-Illinois border.

About 50 miles west ofPaducah, the Ohio joins the mighry Mississippi River at the point where the states of Kentucky, Illinois, and Missouri meet. The Mississippi meanders southward where it finally empties into the Gulf of Mexico below New Orleans.

You'll probably agree that this is a long and round-about journey for a little raindrop which first hit the ground in Georgia, high on the slopes of Black Rock Mountain!

Notice how the enrire environmenr here has suddenly changed. This section is one of the park's steepest and most rugged areas, and as you hike along the narrow backbone of this high ridge, the land on both sides of the trail drops off sharply.
Large rock outcrops line the trail on both sides, and the soil layer is extremely thin, providing crees with only the shallowest offootholds. This weak footing, combined with frequenr high winds and bruising winter ice srorms can spell disaster for any tree that's very tall. Rosebay Rhododendron and Mountain Laurel, however, thrive in this environment. With relatively low profiles and thick, inrercwined root systems, these hardy shrubs easily withstand the fierce winds and heavy ice that can be so damaging ro their taller neighbors. Only an unusually-long period ofdrought has much effect on them.
The Mountain Laurel and rhododendron you see growing just ahead are both members of the Heath Family, and sometimes people confuse the cwo shrubs. They're similar in some ways, but a closer look will reveal a number of differences. Mounrain Laurel leaves, cwo ro four inches long, are considerably smaller than those of rhododendron. Also, the texrure of Mountain Laurel leaves is smoother, and the leaves are usually shinier and a lighter shade of green. The shrubs' blossoms are differenr, roo. Rhododendron has clusters of rather large, funnel-shaped flowers that are up ro 2 1/ 2 inches wide. Mounrain Laurel has clusters of much smaller flowers, no more than an inch across, and each flower appears on a litde srick-like stem.
Mountain Laurel blooms first, at this alrirude normally from mid ro late June. Rhododendron is usually in full bloom during the first halfof] uly. At lower elevations, ofcourse, temperarures are warmer, and both shrubs bloom earlier in the season.
The fern that is so common in this area is Rock Cap Fern. Notice it growing in thin pockets of soil on rop of many outcrops and in the narrow crevasses becween rocks.

Mountain Laurel

Rosebay Rbododendron

TENNESSEE ROCK OVERLOOK VISTA

West

CD

E

FG

North
o P~

Q

R

A - Kelly Knob (GA) B - Brasstown Bald (GA) C - Germany Valley (GA)

D - Gumlog Mountain (GA) E - Eagle Mountain (GA) F - Hightower Bald (GA)

G - Billy Mountain (GA) H - Dicks Knob (GA) I - Little Bald (NC-GA)

mAt an elevation of3625 feet, Tennessee Rock provides you with one ofthe region's most spectacular vistas and is perhaps the trail's most popular feature. The valley far below you is Wolffork. Westward, to your left, is Germany Valley. At 2600 feet above sea level, this scenic farming community sits in one of the highest valleys in Georgia.
How far you can see from Tennessee Rock is, of course, determined by the weather. Summer days are often hazy, but when it's clear, looking far beyond Germany, you may be able to make out the observation tower atop Brasstown Bald which, at 4784 feet, is the highest mountain in Georgia.
Straight ahead, on the Georgia-North Carolina line, are the rugged peaks which make up the southern end of the Nantahala Mountains. Several of these peaks are over 5000 feet and almost challenge Brasstown Bald's position as Georgia's highest mountain; however, the summits are just across the North Carolina line. The top of5043-foot Ridgepole Mountain, for instance, is barely 500 yards from the Georgia border. A few miles beyond Ridgepole is the Nantahala's highest peak, 5499-foot Standing Indian.

!'o'1ozel/e Funderburk 1994

J - Standing Indian (NC)
K - Grassy Ridge Knob (GA) L - Ridgepole Mtn. (NC-GA)

M - Penson Knob (GA) N - Pickens Nose (NC)
o ~ Wolffork Valley (GA)

P - Clingmans Dome (TN-NC)
Q - Cowee Bald (NC)
R - Plott Balsam Range (NC)

On the clearest days, you can see some of the highest peaks in the Great Smoky Mountains about 50 miles away, including 6642-foot Clingmans Dome, the highest point in Tennessee. The above illustration will help you identifY all the mountains mentioned here, as well as a number of other prominent peaks.
As you look out over the mountains, you can sometimes see various birds of prey soaring high over the ridgetops. Both Golden and Bald Eagles are occasionally spotted inside the park, but more commonly seen are several species of hawks. These include Broad-winged, Red-shouldered, Sharpskinned, Red-tailed, and Cooper's Hawks. These birds often drift for hours on the warm thermal winds produced during the summertime, and the park's scenic overlooks offer great vantage points for viewing them.
These birds have excellent eyesight, and they're quick to notice any movement on the ground that might indicate a meal. Birds of prey play an important role in controlling small rodent populations, but their diet also includes insects, snakes, frogs, small birds, and lizards.

Gl

Growing on the exposed surface of many of these rocks are small, greyish-green, leaflike plants known as lichens. Lichens are quite unique because they consist of two very different, yet intertwined, organisms - a fungus and an algae. These grow together in what is called a mutualistic relationship, meaning that certain characteristics of each

benefit the other. With lichens, the algae provides nutrients through the process of photosynthesis.

The fungus provides water and shade.

Lichens grow very slowly, sometimes increasing in size less than a tenth of an inch a year. In fact, some of the lichens you see growing here may be several hundred years old. While lichens are very hardy and can grow in extremely harsh climates, they do not tolerate pollution very well, and few species grow near large cities or in industrial areas where air qualiry is poor.

Take a few moments to look at the rocks beneath the lichens. By providing a glimpse at the structural geology of much of the Blue Ridge region, the rocks serve as a reminder of the natural events that created these mountains. The Blue Ridge Mountains, like the rest of the Appalachians, were originally formed by the massive forces that resulted when the continental plates ofAfrica and North America collided some 250 million years ago.

The amount of pressure and heat generated by these two continents crunching together was tremendous, and as the ancestral Blue Ridge region was uplifted skyward, layers of rock far beneath the surface became so hot that they melted. Over time, as the collision forces slowly subsided, certain melted rocks cooled and crystallized to form granite.

Volcanic and sedimentary rocks were transformed by the heat and pressure into different rypes of rock known as schists and gneisses. Biotire gneiss (pronounced "nice") is one common form of rhese metamorphic rocks, and this is rhe rype of rock that makes up most of the cliffs and rock outcrops visible wirhin Black Rock Mountain State Park. Without disturbing any lichens, see if you can spot riny, black, shiny specks embedded in the large rocks in front of you. These specks are particles of biotite, a black-colored form of mica, and it is the presence of this mineral, with its dark color, rhat gives the park's massive "Black Rock" outcrop its name.

As you examine these rocks, remember rhar the original height of rhe Blue Ridge range was thousands of feet higher than the present-day mountains, and rhe rocks visible to you now were once hidden far below the earrh's surface. Continuous erosion over many millions of years has weathered away overlying layers until finally exposing the outcrops you see today.

The rounded and time-worn knobs of the Blue Ridge, along with the orher ranges of the Appalachians, are some of the very oldest mountains in the world. Other North American ranges are much younger, and they look like it. The Rocky Mountains, for instance, are only about 65 million years old. They're still quire high, and they retain the sharp, jagged contours ofa relatively young range. Eventually, however, the Rockies, like the Appalachians, will succumb to the unrelenting effects of wind and water erosion. It's just a matter of time.

mSeveral times during your hike today, you've had an opportuniry to see changes in the character ofthe forest. Here the environment has changed once again. Since leaving the lichen-covered boulders near Tennessee Rock and walking through a dark tunnel of rhododendron, you have dropped about 100 feet in altitude. That's not much at all, but growing conditions in this area are much better. The forest here receives more shelter from the winds that so often rake across the summit, and the soil is much thicker and less rocky. In addition, the northern exposure here provides better shade which allows the soil to retain more moisture. These factors combine to give the forest a less haggard-looking appearance.
Look for Sweet Birch, sometimes known as Black Birch, which grows here in several spots. These trees are found all over Black Rock's summit and on the mountain's cooler north slope. Crushed birch leaves and twigs have a distinctive wintergreen smell. Oil ofwintergreen, once used to flavor candy and certain rypes ofmedicine, was for many years distilled from the wood and bark of young birches, but this product is now manufactured through a synthetic process.
Deer and rabbits enjoy browsing tender young birch buds and twigs, and seeds are eaten by Ruffed G rouse. Twigs were boiled by Indians and early settlers to make a tonic tea.
The cool, higher elevations of the Southern Appalachians generally represent the southernmost limit of Sweet Birch and a related species, Yellow Birch. These trees become more widespread as you travel northward toward Canada.
Eastern Cottontatl Rabbtt

If you're hiking through the forest late in the evening, you may see what appear ro be small birds flu((ering erratically through the trees. Mosr likely, what you're watching are bats, and they're an important parr of a healthy forest ecosystem.

The most common variery ofbar found in this area is the Li ((Ie Brown M yoris, sometimes called rhe Small Brown Bar. As its name suggests, this animal is mostly brown in color and very riny, weighing no more than half an ounce. Ir has a wingspan of eight ro ten inches.

Bats are misundersrood by many people. The furry little mammals almost never attack humans, and the creatures do not carry rabies any more frequently than other forest animals. More than anything, bats help keep in check insect populations. A colony of 30 bats can consume 90,000
mosquiroes in a single night, far better than the best commercial bugzapper! The animals find their prey by a process called echolocation which is somewhat similar ro radar. Bats send out ultrasonic vibrations through their mouths which bounce off various night-flying insects. The return signals allow the animals ro immediately recognize the identiry and location of their target. This abiliry is so accurate that a bat can zoom in on a tiny gnat on a dark, moonless night with no difficulry at all.

Small Brown Bat

To find out more about bats and ro obtain an instruction sheet on how ro construct and install a bat box, contact park rangers at the visiror center.

On the downhill side ofthe trail, you may be able rospota numberofVasey'sTrilliums growing among clusters of ferns. Although this species of trillium is foun.d only in the Southern Appalachians, it is often not widespread. GroWing ro heights ofabout 18 Inches and With three large leaves almost eight inches wide, Vasey's Trilliums are rather easy ro i.dentify. Usually In bloor:n during April and May is a single deep crimson blossom which hangs Just below the leaves. ThiS blossom can sometimes measure almost four inches across, making it the largest flower of rhe trillium species.

As you continue walking, look for Wild Hydrangea. This common shrub occurs all over the park, and it is one ofrhe most wide-ranging plant species in the southern mountains. It can be found growing below altitudes of I 000 feet in the Piedmont region all the way up ro almost 6500 feet on peaks in the Smokies.

Wild Hydrangea normally grows three ro five feet rail and has many umbrella-shaped clusters ofsmall, tightly-closed, whire flowers. Around the outside edge ofsome cl usters, you may notice that a few flowers will open up, exposing either three or four petals. The vast majoriry ofthe plam's flowers, however, remain closed. Wild Hydrangea leaves, three ro six inches long, are sharply-roothed and have a pointed shape.

Vaseys Trtlltum

mIf you look along the sides of the trail, you may notice tiny-sized Bluets which are in bloom during the spring and early summer. Bluets are very pale blue or white in color, and they're very common in many locations along the trail. Bluets usually grow no higher than a foot above the ground, and with four-petaled blossoms that are only a quarter-inch across, they're the park's tiniest wildflower. While perhaps not having the visual impacr ofsome of the larger species, Bluets are still pretry, and they certainly contribute ro the park's array of summertime flower color.
There are a number of White and Northern Red Oaks on this side ofthe mountain which provide an abundant supply of acorns for park wildlife, including Gray Squirrels. These bushy-tailed rodents are found all across the eastern United States, and they're the most ofren-sighted mammal in the park. Squirrels will den in holes in trees or build leaf nests high up in the rop-most branches. During the winter when trees are bare, these nests are very easy ro see.
In addition ro acorns, squirrels feed on hickory nuts, walnuts, and various rypes of fruits and seeds. In populated areas, their diet often includes birdseed, and many backyard bird watchers will agree that keeping pesky squirrels out of bird feeders can be quite a challenge. While squirrels may be adept at freeloading birdseed, when it comes ro long-term food srorage, the animals don't seem ro be as skillful. Unlike chipmunks which, you'll recall, cache a supply of nuts in their burrows, squirrels individually bury each nut they find. The problem is that later they often don't remember where they put ir. This "forgetfulness" may be a little unfortunate for the squirrel, but it's very beneficial ro the forest since a lot of new trees sprour from these lost nuts.
This is the Tennessee Rock Trail's last interpretive marker. In less than 100 yards, you'll be back at the first fork in the trail. Bear right and head down the steps ro return ro the parking area. Hopefully, your hike has been an enjoyable and enlightening experience, one that has allowed you ro become a little more familiar with rhe rich forests that characterize Black Rock Mountain State Park. If you have questions about the park or want more information about the Blue Ridge Mountain region, park rangers at the visiror center will be happy ro assist you. Please plan ro visit again in the future.
Gray Squtrrel

Cottage
AtN

l.

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PARK BOUNDARY

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS A number of people worked to make this trail guide possible. and the authors wish to thank them for their valuable assistance and cooperation. They include naturalist Marie Mellinger. botanist Carol Howel Gomez. University ofGeorgia geology pro~r Gilles Allard, and artist Mozelle Funderburk.
In addition. special thanks must be given to illustrator Marie Wtld. the production staffat Gap Graphics & Printing in Clayton. Georgia, and the park rangers at Black Rock Mountain State Park. The many contributions ofeveryone involved with this project are truly appreciated.
Coverphoto by Anthony Lampros: V'teW toward the northwest.from Tennessee Rock Overlook. Copyright 1998 Georgia Department ofNatural Resources. AllRights RestrVtd.
Georgia Department of Natural Resources
Black Rock Mountain State Park
Mountain City, Georgia 30562 (706) 746-2141