COLLECTIONS Georgia Historical Society. VOL. IV. SAVANNAH : MOP.NINO NEWS STEAM I'KINTINii HOUSE. 1878. THE DEAD TOWNS GEORGIA; CHARLES C. JONES, Jr I 'lit UEHE iiAvt: ir/; .V" fOSTisniya riri: Hcl. ; siii. 11. SAVANNAH : MOKNIXG NEWS STEAM I'lIINTING IKtCSK. 187S. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from Lyrasis IVIembers and Sloan Foundation http://www.archive.org/details/collectionsofgeo04jone TO GEORGE WYMBERLEY-JONES DeRENNE, ESQ., OF SAVANNAH, WHOSE INTELLIGENT RESEARCH, CULTIVATED TASTE, AND AMPLE FORTUNE HAVE BEEN SO GENEROUSLY ENLISTED IN RESCUING FROM OBLIVION THE EARLY MEMORIES OF GEORGIA, THESE SKETCHES ARE RESPECTFULLY AND CORDIALLY INSCRIBED. PREFATORY NOTE. If it be praisewortlij' in their descendants to erect monuments in honor of the ilhistrious dead, and to perpetuate in history the lives and acts of those who gave shape to the past and encouragement to the future, surely it will not be deemed inappropriate to gather up the fragmentary memories of towns once vital and influential within our borders, but now covered with the mantle of decay, without succession, and wholly silent amid the voices of the present. Against the miasmatic influences of the swamps, Spanish perils, the hostility of the Aborigines, and the poverty and sometimes narrow mindedness of the Trust, did the Colonists grievously struggle in as- serting their dominion over the untamed lands from the Savannah to the Alatamaha. Nothins indicates so surely the vicissitudes and the mistakes encountered during that iirimal period of development, as the Dead Towns of (Ikoroia. From each comes in turn the whisper of hope, the sound of the battle with nature for life and comfort, the sad strain of disappointment, and then the silence of nothingness. Of the chosen seats and characteristics of the primitive peoples who inhabited this territory prior to the advent of the European we have elsewhere spoken.""' ( )f the indications of a foreign occujiancy antedating the colonization under Oglethorpe, such, for example, as those observed by DeBi-ahmf on Demetrius' island, and a few others which might be mentioned, we refrain from writing, becavise the theories ex]ilanatory of their origin, possession, and abandonment, are so nebulous as to seem incapable of satisfactory solution. In narrating the tiaditions and groui)ing the almost obsolete memo- ries of these deserted villages we have endeavored to revive them, as far as practicable, in the language of those to whom we are indebted for their transmission. Charlks C. Jones, Jr. Augusta, Georoia, February 1st, 1S7S. * ' Antiiinitics of the Southern lurtiaus, partii'Uhirly of the Geoi-gia Tribi^s." New Voi-k. l.S7:t. t History of the rrovim-c of Georgia, pi). 2'J, 3(1. Wnrmshje, 184'J. CONTENTS PAGE. I. OLD AND NEW EBENKZER, . - - - n II. FREDERICA, - - ' 45 III. ABERCORN, - - 137 IV. SUNBURY, 141 V. HARDWICK, - - 224 VI. PETERSBURG, JACKSONBOROUGH. &C., - - 233 VII. MISCELLANEOUS TOWNS, PLANTATIONS, &C., 245 ILLUSTRATIONS L PLAN OF NEW EBENEZER. 2. PLAN OF FREDERICA. 3. PLAN OF SUNBURY. 4. PLAN OF FORT MORRIS. 5. OUTLINE OF HARDWICK. ,^^Zfyn, ^l/^e -J^^w^ E B E N.E Z E R a.7i., 29, ;{0, 32. London, i;42. An Account showing the Progre.ss of the Colouy of Georgia in America, &., pp. (iC, 69. London, 1741. ISee McCall's Hiatory of Georgia, vol. 3, p. 199. Savannah, 1h)1. OLD, AND NEW EBENEZER. 25 liundrecl German Protestants had arrived in the Colony. Their princijial settlements were at Ebenezer, Bethan}, Savannah, Frederica, Goshen, and along the road leading from Savannah to Ebenezer. They were all characterized by industry, sobriet}-, and thrift. About the year 1744 the Saltzburgers at Ebenezer and along the line of the public road running from that town to Savannah, through the assistance of friends in Germany, were enabled to build two comfortable and substantial houses for public worship, one at New Ebenezer, called Jerusalem C/nirch, and the other about four miles below, named Zion Church. The joy experienced upon the dedi- cation of these sacred buildings was soon turned to grief by the death of one of their faithful pastors, the Reverend Israel (J. Gronau, who, in the supreme moments of a lingering fever, desiring a friend to support his hands uplifted in praise of the Great Master whom he had so long and so truthfully served, exclaimed " Come, Lord Jesus ! Amen ! !, Amen ! ! ! "' and with these words, the last upon his lips, entered into peace.* Reverend Mr. Bolzius continued to be the principal pastor and, as an assistant, the Reverend Mr. Lemlike Was asso- ciated with him. As early as January 81, 1732, Sir Thomas Lombet cer- tified to the Trustees of the Colony that silk produced in Carolina possessed " as much natural Strength and Beautv as the Silk of Italy." In his "New and Accurate Account of the Provinces of South Carolina and Georgia,"^ Mr. Oglethorpe enumerated among the chief revenues which * See Strobel's Saltzburt^'ers and their Descendants, p. Vi. Baltimore, 185."). t An Acconnt showing tlie Pro^jresp of the Colony of Georgia. &c., i>i>. :i'.), MK London, 17+1. i Chapter V, pp. 5.", 5i). London, lT3:i. i 2G THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. might be anticipated from tlie settlement of Georgia, profits to arise froui the manufacture of silk. His opinion Avas that between forty and fifty thousand people might be advan- tageously employed in this business. In view of the encour- agement which might reasonably be expected from Parlia- ment, and the cheapness of the labor and land, he estimated that the cost of production would be at least twenty-five per cent, lower than that then current in Piedmont. Sharing in this belief, the Trustees sent to Italy for silk-worm eggs, and engaged the services of several Piedmontese to go to Georgia and instruct the Colonists in tlip production of silk." In the grants of land to parties emigrating to Georgia either at their own expense or at the charge of the Charity, may be found covenants on the part of the grantees to " keep a sufficient number of white mulberry trees standing on every acre," or else to "plant them where they were wanted." A special plea is entered by Benjamin Martj^n in behalf of silk-culture in Gaorgia and the manifest benefits to be expected.t The early accounts all agree in representing the pro- duction of silk as one of the most important matters to be considered and fostered in connection with the establish- ment and development of the Colony of Georgia. In 1735, Queen Carohne, upon the King's birth-day, ap- peared in a full robe of Georgia silk ; and in 1739 a parcel of raw silk, brought from Georgia by Samuel Augspourguer, was exhibited at the Trustees' office in London to "Mr. John Zachary, -an eminent raw-silk merchant, and to Mr. Booth, one of the greatest silk-weavers in England," both * Au Account sliowiiij,' the Progress of the Colonj' of Goorgliv iu America, p. l:{. Lon- flon. 1741. tMartyu's ReasoilH fol' establlHhiug the Colony of Gnoraia witli regard to the Tradt; of Great Britaiu, p. y. Loudou, 1733. OLD, AND NEW EBENEZER. 27 of whom " declared it to be as fine as an}' Italian silk, and worth at least twenty shillings a pound."* With that industry and patience so characteristic of them as a people, the inhabitants of New Ebenezer were among the earliest and the most persevering in their efforts to carry into practical operation Mr. Oglethorpe's wishes in regard to the production of silk. In 1736 each Saltzburger there was presented with a mulberry tree, and two of the congregation were instructed by Mrs. Camuse in the art of reeling. Under date of May 11th, 1741, Mr. Bolzius, in his journal, records the fact that within the preceding two months twenty girls succeeded in making seventeen pounds of cocoons which were sold at Savanilah for 3, 8s. The same year =5 were advanced by General Oglethorpe to this Clergyman for the purchase of trees. With this sum he pro- cured twelve hundred, and distributed them among the families of his parish. On the 4th of December, 1742, five hundred trees were sent by General Oglethorpe to Ebenezer, with a promise of more should they be needed. Near Mr. Bolzius' house a machine for the manufacture of raw-silk was erected, and the construction of a public Filature was contemplated. Of the eight hundred and forty-seven pounds of cocoons raised in the Colom' of Georgia in 1747, about one-half was pro- duced by the Saltzburgers at Ebenezer. Two years after- wards this yield was increased to seven hundred and sixty- two pounds of cocoons, and fifty pounds thirteen ounces of spun silk. Two machines were in operation in Mr. Bolzius' yard, capable of reeling twentj'-four ounces per day. It was An Account showing the Progresi? of the Colony of Georgia in America, &c., p. 32. I^ondon, 1741. 28 THE DEAD TOWNS OF tiEOKGIA, apparent, however, that whiks hy ortlinar}- Libor, about two shillmgs c(^uld be earned, scarcely a shilHng per diem could be expected by one engagetl in the manufacture of silk. This fact proved so discouraging to the Colonists that, ex- cept at Ebenezev, silk culture Avas generally relinquished. The Germans persevered, and as the result of their enei'gy, over a thousand pounds of cocoons and seventy-four pounds, two ounces of raw-silk were raised at Ebenezer in 1750, and sold for 110 sterling. The community Avas now pretty well supplied with copper basins and reeling machines. Consid- erable effort was made in England to attract the notice of the Home Government to this production of silk in Georgia, and to enlist in its behalf fostering influences at the hands of those in authority. In 1755 a paper w^as laid before the Lords of Trade and Plantations, signed by al)out forty eminent silk throw^sters and weavers, declaring that " having examined about 800 w^t. of Georgia raw-silk they found it as good as the Piedmontese, and better than the common Italian silks." Assurance was given that there was the utmost reason to afford "all possible encouragement for the raising of so valuable a commodity."- In 1701 fifteen thousand two hundred and twelve i)0untls of cocoons were delivered at tlie Filature in Savannah, then under the charge of Mr. Ottolenghe, of which eight thou- sand six hundred and ninety-five pounds were contributed by the Saltzburgers. In 1766 the production of silk in Georgia reached its acme, and from that time, des2)ite the encouragement extended by Parliament, continued to de- cline until it was practically abandoned a few 3'ears before the inception of the Revolution. Operations at the Filature Gentleman's 'Maaiv/.inc for 17o5, p. 18.5. London ' ' p. 186. OLD, AND NEW EBENEZER. '29 ill Savaiinali were discoiitiuued iii 1771 ; and Sir James Wright, ill his message to the Commcms House of Assem- bly, under date 19th of January, 177-1, alhides to the fact that tlie Fihiture buildings were falling into decay, and suggests that they be put to some other use. Despite the disinclination existing in other portions of the Colony to devote much time and labor to the growhig of trees and the manufacture of silk, the Saltzburgers, incited by their worthy magistrate, Mr. Wertsch, redoubled their efforts, and in 1770, as the result of their industry, shipped two hundred and ninety-one pounds of raw-silk. At the suggestion of the Earl of Hillsborough, avIio warmly commended the zeal of these Germans and interested him- self in procuring from Parliament a small sum to be ex- ponded in aid of the more indigent of the community, Mr. Habersham distributed among them the basins and reels then being in the unused public Filature in Savannah. "So poiiular had the silk business become at Ebenezer that Mr. Habersham, in a letter dated the 30tli of March, 177*2, says : 'Some persons in almost every family there un- derstand its process from the beginning to the end.' In 1771 the Germans sent four hundred and thirty-eight pounds of raw silk to England, and in 1772 four hundred and eighty- five pounds: all of their own raising. They made their own reels, which were so much esteemed that one was sent to England as a model, and another taken to the East Indies by Pickering Robinson."''^ In the face of the distractioii s enc ountered upon the commencement of hostilities between the Colonies and the Mother Country, silk culture languished even among these *Silk Culturo in Georgia, by Dr. Stevens. Harris' Memorials of Oglethorpe, pp. 41(1, 411. Boston, 1841. 30 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. Germans, and Avas never afterwards revived to any consid- erable degree. The unfriendliness of climate, the high i)rice of labor, the withdrawal of all bounty which had been the chief stimulus to exertion, and the larger profits to he. de- rived from the cultivation of rice and cotton combined to interrupt silk-raising, and, in the end, caused its total abandonment. " The construction of a bridge over Ebenezer creek ma- terially promoted the interests and the convenience of those residing at Ebenezer ; and the erection of Churches at Bethanj' and Goshen, the former about five miles north- west of Ebenezer, and the latter some ten miles below and near the road leading to Savannah, indicated the growth of the German plantations along the line of the Savannah river. The settlement at Bethany was efiected in 1751 by John Gerar William DeBrahm, avIio there located one hundred and sixty Germans. Eleven months afterwards these Colo- nists were joined by an equal number, " the Relations and Acquaintance of the former." The Saltzburgers then num- bered about fifteen hundred souls."^ Alluding to the location and growth of these plantations, and the agricultural pur- suits of their cultivators, Surveyor-General DeBrahm says : "The German Settlements have since Streatched S: East- wardly about 32 miles N : W-ward from the Sea upon Sa- vannah Stream, from whence they extend up the same Stream through the whole Salt Air Zona. They cultivate European and American Grains to Perfection ; as Wheat, Rye, Barley, Oats ; also Flax, Hemp, Tobacco and Rice, Indigo, Maize, Peas, Pompions, Melons they plant Mul- berry, Apjile, Peach, Nectorins, Plumbs and Quince Trees, * Hisfcry of the Province of Georgia, &c. p. 20. Wormsloe, 1719. OLD, AND NfiW EBENfiZfifl. 8l besides all manner of European Garden Herbs, but, in particular, they Cliose the Culture of silk their principal Object, in which Culture they made such a Progress, that the Filature, which is erected in the City of Savannah could afford to send in 1768 to London 1,084 Pounds of raw Silk, equal in Goodness to that manufactured in Piemont ; but the Bounties to encourage that Manufactory being taken ofl", they discouraged, dropt their hands from that Culture from year to year in a manner, that in 1771 its Product was only 290 Pounds in lieu of 1,461, which must have been that year's Produce, had this Manufactory been encouraged to increase at a 16 years rate. In lieu of Silk they have taken under more Consideration the Culture of Maize, Rice, Indigo, Hemp & Tobacco : But the Vines have not as yet become an Object of their Attention, altho' in the Country especially over the German Settlements, Nature makes all the Promises, yea gives j'early full Assurances of her Assistance by her own Endeavours producing Clusture Grapes in Abundance on its uncultivated Vines ; yet there is no Person, who will listen to her Addresses, and give her the least Assistance, notwithstanding many of the Inhabitants are refreshed from the Sweetness of her wild Productions. The Culture of Indigo is brought to the same Perfection here, as in South Carolina, and is manufactured through all the Settlements from the Sea Coast, to the Extent of the interior Country."* On the 19th of November, 1765, the Ebenezer congre- gation was called upon to mourn the loss of its venerable Spiritual Guide, the Reverend Mr. Bolzius, who had been at once teacher and magistrate, counsellor and friend during the tliirty years of poverty and privation, labor and sorrow, hope and joy, passed in the wilds of Georgia. He was * History of the Province of Georgia, &c., pi'. '11, 2'2. WonuHloi.', 18i9. 82 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. interred, amid the lamentations of his people, in the ceme- tery' near Jerusalem Church, and no stone marks his grave. After his demise the conduct of the Society devolved upon Messrs. Lembke and RaV^enhorst. This involved not only the spiritual care of this people, but also the preser- vation and proper management of the mill-establishments and public property belonging to the Ebenezer Congrega- tion. " These two faithful men," writes the Reverend P. A. Strobel,* " labored harmoniously and successfully in the discharge of their heavy civil and religious obligations, and gave entire satisfaction to those with whose interests they were intrusted." During their administration the large brick house of worship, known as Jerusalem Church, was built at Ebenezer. The materials used in its construction were, for the most part, supplied l)y the Saltzburgers, while the funds necessary to defray the cost of erection were contributed by friends in Germany. Upon the death of Mr. Lembke, the Reverend Christopher F. Triebner "was sent over by the reverend fathers in Ger- many as an adjunct to Mr. Rabenhorst. Being a young man of talents, but of an impetuous and ambitious disi)o- sition, he soon raised such a tumult in the quiet community that all the efforts of the famous Mr. Muhlenburg, who was ordered on a special missicm to Ebenezer in 1774 to heal the disturbances which had arisen, scarce saved the con- gregation from disintegration. The schism was, however, finally cured, and peace was restored." For the better government of the Society, articles of discipline were pre- pared by Dr. Muhlenburg, which were formally subscribed bv one hundred and twenty-four male members. This occurred at Jerusalem Church on the IGtli of January, 1775, * The Salt/V)urgi>rH uiul tlii-ir Dtscoudmits, kv., v. 140. Baltjmoro, 1855. OLD, AND NEW KBEXKZKll. 88 and affords substantial evidence of the strength of the congregation. The propert}- belonging to the C'hurch, according to an inventory made by Dr. Mnhlenbnrg in 177o, consisted of the following : "1. In the hands of Pastor Rabenhorst a ca})ital of 300. 16s. 5d. 2. In the hands oi John Cas2)er Wertsch, for the store, 300. 3. In the mill treasury, notes and money, 229. 16s. 2d. 4. Pastor Triebner has some money in hands, (400) the application of Avhich has not been determined by onr Reverend Fathers. 5. Belonging to the Church is a Negro Boy at Mr. John rioerls', and a Negro Girl at Mr. David Steiner's. G. A town-lot and an out-lot, of which Mr. John Triebner has the grant in his hands. 7. An inventory of personal goods in the mills belonging to the estate. 8. And, finall}', real estate, Avitli the mills, 925 acres of land." Including certain legacies from private individuals, and donations from patrons of the Colony in Germany, which were received within a short time, it is conjectured that this church })roperty was then worth not much less than twenty thousand dollars. So long as the congregation at Ebene?;er preserved its integrity, direct allegiance to the parent Church in Germany Avas acknowledged, its precepts, orders and deliverances were obeyed, its teachers welcomed ;uul respected, and accounts of all receipts, disbursements, ;ind important transactions regularly rendered. Its pastors continued to l)e charged with the administration of affairs, both spiritual and temporal, and were the duly constituted custodians S4 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEOIlCilA. of all church fuuJs and property. Upou their arrival iii Georgia these Saltzl)iirgers, wearied with persecutions and stripped of the small possessions "vvhich were once theirs, were at first quite dependent upon public and private charity for bare subsistence. They were then unable, b}- voluntary contributions, to sustain their pastors and teachers, and build chiu'ches. Foreign aid arrived, however, from time to time, and this was supplemented in a sjinall, yet generous way, by the labor of the ])arishi()ners and such sums and articles as could be "spared from their slow accunndations. With a view to providing for the future, all means thus derived were carefully invested for the benefit of church and pastor. This system was maintained for more than fifty years, so that in the course of time not only were churches built, but reasonable provision was made for clergyman, teacher, and orphan, aside from the yearly voluntary contri- butions of the members of the Society. The education of youths was not neglected ; and DeBrahm assures us that in his day a library had been accumulated at Ebenezer in which "could be had Books wrote in the Caldaic, Hebrew, Arabec, Siriac, Coptic, Malabar, Greek, Latin, French, German, Dutch and Spanish, beside the Enghsh, viz : in thirteen Languages.""'' In the division of the Province of Georgia into eight Parishes, which occurred on the loth of March, 1758, "the district of Abercorn and Goshen, and the district of Ebeue- ;ier extending from the northwest boundaries of the parish of Christ Church up the river Savannah as far as the Beaver Dam, and southwest as far as the mouth of Horse-Creek on the river Great Ogechee " were declared a Parish under History of the Province of Georgia, &c., p. '2i. Wornisloe, IblO. OLD, AND NEW EBENEZER. 35 the name of "'The Parish of St. Matthew."- The parish just below, on the line of the Savannah river, and embracing the town of Savannah, was known as " Christ Church Parish." The Parish of St, Matthew, and the upper part of St. Phili]) lying above the Canouchee river, were, by the Con- stitution of Georgia adopted at Savannah on the 5th of February, 1777, consolidated into a county called Effingham. f In the opinion of the Reverend Mr. Strobel, to whose valuable sketch of the Saltzburgers and their descendants we are indebted for much of the information contained in these pages, Ebenezer attained the height of its importance about 177-1:. The population of the toAvn proper was not less than five hundred, embracing agriculturists, mechan- ics, and shop-keepers, who pursued their respective avo- cations with energy and thrift. Trade with Savannah and Charleston Avas carried on by means of sloops and schooners. In a contemporaneous picture, representing the general appearance of the town, may be seen two schooners riding at anchor near the Ebenezer landing. :J: Although there arose a sharp division of sentiment when the question of direct opposition to the acts of Parliament was discussed at Ebenezer in 1774, and although quite a number of the inhabitants favored " passive obedience and non-resistance," the response of the majority was : " We have experienced the evils of tyranny in our own land ; * Marbiiry aud Crawford's Digest, mi. loO, 151. Under the Writs of Election issued by Sir James Wright in ITdl, the following gentle- men were returned as members from St. Matthew's Parish : Abercorn and Goshen William Francis. Ebenezer William Ewen, N. W. Jones, and James de Veaux.lT HMcCall's History of Georgia, vol i. p. 'M5. t Watkins' Digest, p. . t See Strobel's Saltzburgers and tUeir Descendants, p. IW. Baltimore, 1855. 36 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. for tlie sake of liberty we Lave left lioine, lands, houses, estates, and have taken refuge in the Avilds of Georgia ; shall we now submit again to bondage? No, never." Among the delegates from the Parish of St. Mutthew to the Pro- vincial Congress wliieh assembled in Savannah on the 4th of July, 1775, were the following Saltzbui'gers : John Stirk, John Adam Treutlen, Jacob Waldhauer, John Floerl, and Christopher Craemer. Despite the fact that as a community the Saltzburgers espoused the cause of the Revolutionists, a considerable faction, headed by Mr. Triebner, maintained an open and a strenuous adherence to the C*rown. BetAveen these parties sprang up an angry controversy, replete with the bitterest feelings, and very prejudicial to the peace and prosperity of the congregation. In the midst of the dis- cussion the Reverend Mr. Ral^enhorst, who exerted his utmost influence to curb the dominant passions and incul- cate mutual foi'bearance, crowned his long and useful life with a saintly death. Three da3'S after the capture of Savannah by Colonel Campbell, a strong force was advanced, under the command of Lieut. Col. Maitland, to Cherokee Hill. The following day [January 2, 1779, | Ebenezer Avas occupied by the British troops. Upon their arrival they threw up a redoubt Avithin a fcAv lumdred yards of Jerusalem Church and fortified the position.:}: The remains of this work are said to be still visible. The moment he learned that Savannah had fallen before Colonel Campbell's column, Mr. Triebner hastened to that place, proclaimed his loyalty, and took the oath of allegiance. The intimation is that he counselled the immediate occnpation of Ebenezer, and in person accom- t In 1776, Ebeilezer had been partially fortified by the Revolutionists.* * See letter oi Sir James Wright to Lon I George Germain under date March 20. 1776. Collections of the G^-orgia Historical Society, vol. in. p. -IM. Savanuali, 1h7:!. OLD, AND NEW EBENEZEH. 37 pjiniecl tlu' detacliment which couipassed the capture of his own town and people. He was a violent, nncomproniising man, at all times intent upon the success of his peculiar views and wishes. Influenced by his advice and example, not a few of the Saltz;l)urgers subscribed oaths of allegiance to the British Crown, and received certificates guaranteeing Royal protection to person and property. Prominent among those who maintained their adherence to the Rebel cause Avere Governor John Adam Treutlen, William Holsendorf, Colonel John Stirk, Secretary Samuel Stirk, John Schnider, Rudolph Strohaker, Jonathan Schnider, J. Gotlieb Schnider, Jonathan Ralm, Ernest Zittrauer, and Joshua and Jacob Helfenstein. " The citizens at Ebenezer and the surrounding country," says Mr. Strobel, "were made to feel very severely the effects of the war. The property of those who did not take the oath of allegiance was confiscated, and they were con- stantl}^ exposed to every species of insult and wrong from a hired and i^rotligate soldiery. Besides this, some of the Saltzburgers who espoused the cause of the Crown became very inveterate in their hostility to the Whigs in the set- tlement, and pillaged and then l)urnt their dwellings. The residence on the farm of the pious Ralienhorst was among the first given to the flames. Among those who distin- guished themselves for their cruelty was one Eichel, who has been properly termed an 'inhuman miscreant,' whose residence was at Goshen, and Martin Dasher, who kept a public house five miles below Ebenezer. These men placed themselves at the head of marauding parties, composed of British and Tories, and laid waste every plantation or farm whose occupant was even suspected of favori;ig the Republi- can cause. In these predatory excursions the most revolting 38 THE DEAD TOWNH OF GEORGIA. cruelty and uubiidled licentiousness Avere indulged, and the Avhole country was overrun and devastated. "' - * The Salzburgers, nevertheless, were to experience great annoyances from other sources. - '' * A line of British posts had been established all along the western bank of the Savannah river to check the demonstrations of the Kebel forces in Carolina. Under these circumstances, Ebenezer, from its somewhat central position, became a kind of thoroughfare for the British troops in passing through the country from Augusta to Savannah. To the inhabitants of Ebenezer, particularly, this was a source of perpetual annoyance. British troops were constantly quartered among them, and to avoid the rudeness of the soldiers and the heavy tax upon their resources, many of the best citizens were forced to abandon their homes and settle in the country, thus leaving their houses to the mercy of their cruel invaders. " Besides all this, they were forced to witness almost daily acts of cruelty practised by the British and Tories toward those Americans who happened to fall into their hands as prisoners of Avar ; for it Avill be remembered that Ebenezer, while in the hands of the British, Avas the point to Avhicli all prisoners taken in the surrounding country were brought and from thence stuit to Savannah. It Avas from this post that the prisoners Avere carried Avho Avere rescued l)y Sergeant Jasper and his comrade, NcAvton, at the Jasper Spring, a feAv miles above Savannah. "There Avas one act performed l)y tlie British commander Avhicli Avas peculiarly trying and revolting to the Salzburgers. Their fine brick church Avas co^iverted into a hospital for the accommodation of the sick and Avounded, and subse- quently it was desecrated by being used as a stable for their t)tD, AND NEW liBllNEZEfli ,^9 liorses. To this latter use it was devoted until the close of the war and the removal of the British troops from Georgia. To show their contempt for the church and their disregard for the religious sentiments of the peo})le, the church records were nearly all destroved, and the soldiers would discharge their guns at ditierent objects on the church ; and even to this day the metal " Simii " (Luther's coat of arms) which surmounts the spire on the steeple, hears the mark of a musket ball which was fired through it by a reckless soldier. Often, too, cannon were discharged at the houses ; and there is a log- house now standing not far from Ebenezer, which was perforated by several cannon shot. - - "" The Salzburgers endured all these hardships and indignities with becoming fortitude ; and though a few were overcome by these severe measures, yet the great mass of them remained firm in their attachment to the principles of liberty.'"' It is suggested that the establishment of tippling houses in Ebenezer, during its occupancy by the British, and con- stant intercourse with a licentious soldier}-, corrupted the lives of not a few of the once sober and orderly Germans, That the protracted presence of the enemy, the confiscation of estates, the interruption of regular pursuits, the expul- sion of such as clave to the Confederate cause, and the general demoralization cosnequent upon a state of Avar, tended to the manifest injury and depopulation of the town, cannot, for a moment, lie questioned. Indications of decay and ruin were patent in Ebenezer before the cessation of hostilities. From the time of its occupation by Maitland, shortly after the capture of Savannah by Colonel Campbell in December, 1778, with the exception of the limited period when its garrison was called in to assist in the * Strobers Saltzburgera and their Descendants, pp. 'Mi, '201. Baltimore, 1855. 40 'fHE DEAD 'J'OWXS OF OEOTJGIA. (lefe)ise of Savannah against the o])erations of the alhed army mider the command of Count DeEstaing and General Lincohi hi the fall of 177!), ^Ebenezer continued in the possession of the British until a short time prior to the evacuation of Savannah in July, 1788. In his advance toward Savannah, General Anthony Wayne established his head cpiarters at this town. The Tory pastor, Triebner, who, during the struggle had sided with the Royalists and remained unmoved amid the sufferings and oppressions of his people, betook himself to flight so soon as the English forces were withdrawn, and found a refuge in England, where he ended his days in seclusion. Upon the evacuation of Savannah, many of the Saltz- burgers returned to Ebenezer. Its aspect Avas sadly clianged. Not a few of the abandoned dwellings had been burned. Others had fallen into decay. Smiling gardens had been trampled into desert places, and the impress of stagnation, neglect, and desolation was upon everything. Jerusalem Church was a mass of tilth, and very dilapidated. Notwithstanding this sad condition of affairs, much energy was displayed in the purification and renovation of this temple of worship, and in the rehabilitation of the town. The arrival of the Reverend John Ernest Bergman, a clergyman of decided talents and of considerable literary attainments, and the revival of the ])arochial school greatly encouraged the depressed inhabitants and promoted the general improvement of the place. The population began to increase. It assumed an apparently permanent character* and countenanced the hope that the ante-bellum cpnet, good order, thrift, and prosi)erity would be regained. This ex- pectation, however, was not fully realized. The former trade never revived. The mills were never again put in OLD, AND NEW EBliNEZER. 41 motion. Silk-culture was renewed only to a limited degree. Having for twenty-five years more remained about station- ary, New Ebenezer commenced visibly to decline ; and, when scarcely more than a century old, took its place, in silence and nothingness, among the dead towns of Georgia.* The act of February 26th, 1784,t provided for the erec- tion of the " Court House and Gaol" and for holding public elections in Effingham County at Tuckasee-King, near the present line of Scriven County. The situation proving in- convenient, three years afterwards the county-seat was re- moved to Elberton, near Indian Bluff, on the north side of the Great Ogeechee river. On the 18th of February, 1796, the Legislature of Geor- gia:}: appointed Jeremiah Cuyler, John G. Neidliuger, Jona- than Rawhn, Elias Hodges, and John Martin Dasher "com- missioners for the town and common of Ebenezer," with in- structions to have the town " surveyed and laid out as nearly as possible in conformity to the original plan thereof, to sell all vacant lots, and such as had become vested in the State, [reserving such only as were necessary for public uses,] and appropriate the proceeds to the erection of a County Court House and Jail." Any over-plus was to be applied to building a public Academy. For three years only did Ebenezer remain the County Town of Effingham County. In 1799, its public buildings were sold, and the village of Springfield was designated by the Legislature as " the per- manent seat for the public buildings of the County of Effing- * Ebenezer ia not mentioned amon^ the iirincipal towns of Georgia enumerated by George Sibbald in 1801. See "Notes and Observations on tlie Pine Lands of Georgia," &c., pxj.58 to 00. Augusta, 1801. t Watkius' Digest, p. 298. $ Marbury and Crawford's Digest, pp. 154, 1.55. 6 42 THE DKAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. ham."" David Hall, Joslma Loper, Samuel Ryals, Gocllielf Smith, and Drurias Garrison were appointed commissioners to carry this change into eft'ect. In 1808 the Ebenezer Congregation received legislative permission to sell the glebe lands which it owned. By de- grees all the real estate held by the society was disposed of. The proceeds arising from these sales were invested in lands, mortgages, and securities ; the interest accruing being ap- plied to the payment of the pastor's salary and the current expenses of the church.t Until about the year 1803 all the religious services observed by the Saltzburgers were conducted in the German language ; and, in the church at Ebenezer, for a long time subsequent to that date, the religious exercises continued in that tongue. Methodist and Baptist Churches springing up in the neighborhood drew away many of the younger members of the congregation. The introduction of the English language into all the Saltzburger Churches was effected in 1824 through the instrumentalitj' of the Reverend Christopher F. Bergman. Year by year Ebenezer became more sparsely populated. Many of its citizens removed into the interior and upper parts of the county. Quite a number formed settlements in Scriven County, while others went to Savannah, and to Lowndes, Liberty, and Thomas counties. Others still, more enterprizing than their fellows, sought new homes in South Carolina, Alabama, Florida, Pennsylvania, and Ohio. We close this sketch with a picture of Ebenezer painted by one of the late Pastors:}: of Jerusalem Church, a gen- *Marbury and Crawford's Di^'cst, p. 158. tSee Strobfd's Saltzburgers and their Descendants, p. 234. Baltimore, 1856. + Rev'd P. A. Strobel. OLD, AND NEW EBENEZEE. 43 tleman of cultivation and of piety, who saw the last waves of oblivion as they closed over tlie toAvn and obliterated its decaj'ed traces from the grass covered blnff of the Savannah. " To one visiting the ancient town of Ebenezer, in the present day 1 1855 1 the prospect which presents itself is anything but attractive-; and the stranger who is unacquaint- ed with its history would perhaps discover very little to excite his curiosity or awaken his sympathies. The town has gone almost entirely to ruins. Only two residences are now remaining, and one of these is untenanted. The old church, however, stands in bold relief upon an open lawn, and by its somewhat antique appearance seems silently, yet forcibly, to call up the reminiscences of former years. Not far distant from the church is the cemetery, in which are sleeping the remains of the venerable men who founded the colony and the church, and many of their descendants who, one by one, have gone down to the grave to mingle their ashes with those of their illustrious ancestors. "Except upon the Sabbath, when the descendants of the Saltzburgers go up to their temple to Avorship the God of their fathers, the stillness which reigns around Ebenezer is seldom broken, save by the warbling of birds, the occa- sional transit of a steamer, or the murmurs of the Savannah as it Hows on to lose itself in the ocean. The sighing winds chant melancholy dirges as they sweej) through the lofty pines and cedars which cast their sombre shades over this 'deserted village.' Desolation seems to have spread over this once-favored spot its withering wing, and here, where generation after generation gi-ew up and flourished, where the persecuted and exiled Saltzburgers reared their offspring in the hope that they would leave a numerous progeny of 14 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. pious, useful, and prosperous citizens, and Avliere everything seemed to betoken the establishment of a thrifty and per- manent colony, scarcely anything is to be seen, except the sad evidences of decay and death." :i: ftj vCl il II. FREDERICA, "As the Mind of Man cannot form a more exalted Pleasure than what arises from the Reflexion of having relieved the Distressed; let the Man of Benevolence, whose Substance enables him to contribute towards this Undertaking, give a Loose for a little to his Imagination, pass over a few Years of his Life, and think himself in a Visit to Georgia. Let him see those, who are now a Prey to all the Calamities of Want, who are starving with Hunger, and seeing their Wives and Children in the same Distress ; expecting likewise every Moment to be thrown into a Dungeon, with the cutting Anguish that they leave their Families expos'd to the utmost Necessity and Despair : Let him, I sa}-, see these living under a sober and orderly Government, settled in Towns, which are rising at Distances along navigable Rivers : Flocks and Herds in the neighbouring Pastures, and adjoining to them Plantations of regular Rows of Mulberry-Trees, entwin'd with Vines, the Branches of which are loaded with Grapes ; let him see Orchards of Oranges, Pome- granates, and Olives ; in other Places extended Fields of Corn, or Flax and Hemp. In short, the whole Face of the Country chang'd by Agriculture, and Plenty in every Part of it. Let him see the People all in Employment of various Kinds, Women and Children feeding and nurs- 46 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. ing the Silkworms, windiii}^ off the Silk, or gathering the Olives ; the Men ploughing and planting their Lands, tending their Cattle, or felling_ the Forest, Avhich they burn for Potashes, or square for the Builder; let him see these in Content and Affluence, and Masters of little Possessions which they can leave to their Children; and then let him think if they are not happier than those supported by Charity in Idleness. Let him reflect that the Produce of their Labour will be so much new Wealth for his C-ountry, and then let him ask himself. Whether he would exchange the Satisfaction of having contributed to this, for all the trifling Pleasures the Money, which he has given, would have purchas'd. " Of all publick-spirited Actions, perhaps none can claim a Preference to the Settling of Colonies, as none are in the End more useful. - * * Whoever then is a Lover of Liberty will be pleas'd with an Attempt to re- cover his fellow Subjects from a State of Misery and Oppression, and fix them in Happiness and Freedom. " Whoever is a Lover of his Country will approve of a Method for the Employment of her Poor, and the In- crease of her People and her Trade. Whoever is a Lover of Mankind will join his wishes to the Success of a Design so plainly calculated for their Good ^~ Un- dertaken, and conducted with so much Disinterestedness." By such suggestions did Benjamin Martyn"" seek to enlist the public sympathy in behalf of the then projected but not estabhshed Colony of Georgia. Mr. Oglethorpe, in a contemporaneous publication,t had * Reasons for Establiahiug the Colony of Georgia with regard to the Trade of Great Britain, kc , pp. 38-41. London, 173:t. t A New and Accurate Account of the Provinces of South Carolina and Georgia, &c London, 1733. FREDERICA. 47 assigned, among the weightiest reasons for founding the Colony, the ample opportunity which would be afforded in Georgia for persons reduced to poverty at home and con- stituting a positive charge upon the Nation, to be made happy and prosperous abroad and profitable to England. The conversion of the Indians, the confirmation of the de- velopment and security of Carolina, and a lucrative trade in silk, rice, cotton, wine, indigo, grain, and lumber, were enumerated as additional inducements to the enter23rize. On the 9tli of June, 1732, his Majesty, George the Second, by Charter, granted to the Trustees for estab- lishing the Colony of Georgia in America and their succes- sors, all the Lands and Territories from the most northern stream of the Savannah river along the sea-coast to the southward unto the most southern stream of the Alatamaha river, and westward from the heads of the said rivers re- spectively in direct lines to the south seas. Not only the lands Ij'ing within these boundaries, but also all islands within twenty leagues of the coast were, by this Koyal feoffment, conveyed "for the better support of the Colony."* During the first year of the foundation of the Colony, Mr. Oglethorpe's attention was directed to providing for the emigrants suitable homes at Savannah, Joseph's Town, Abercorn, and Old Ebenezer, to concluding necessary trea- ties of cession and amity with the Natives, and the erection of a fort on the Great Ogeechee river to command the main passes by which the Indians had invaded Carolina during the late wars, and afford the settlers some security against anticipated incursions from the Spaniards. This fortified l^ost, as a compliment to his honored patron John, Duke of * See Cojjy of Charter, McCall's History of Georgia, Vol. I, p.3'2'J et seq : Savannah, 1811. Reasons for establishing the Colony of Georgia, &c., p. 29. London, 1733. A State of the Province of Georgia attested upon oath, &c., p. 1. London, 1742. 48 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA, Argyle, was called Fort Jn/t/Ic, and was garrisoned by Captain McPlierson and his detachment of Kangers. At this time no English plantations had been established south of the Great Ogeechee river. Having confirmed the Colon- ists in their occupation of the right bank of the Savannah, and engaged the friendship of the venerable Indian Chief, Tomo-chi-chi, and the neighboring Lower Creeks and Uchees, in January, 1734, Mr. Oglethorpe set out to explore the coast, and determine upon such settlement as appeared most advantageous for the protection of the southern con- fines of the Colony. During a heavy rain on the 2Gth of that month, he and his party landed " on the first Albany bluff of St. Simon's island" and "lay all night under the shelter of a large live-oak-tree and kept themselves dry." This re- connoissance, which was continued as far as the sea-point of St. Simon's island, and Jekyll island, convinced Mr. Ogle- thorpe it was expedient and necessary for the proper defence of the Colony that a military station and settlement should be formed, at the earliest practicable moment, near the mouth of the Alatamaha river ; and that, as an outpost, a strong fort should be built on St. Simon's island. This plan was in part compassed in January, 1735, when one hundred and thirty Highlanders, and fifty women and children, who had been enrolled for emigration at Inverness and its vicinity, arrived at Savannah, and, a few days after- wards, were conveyed in periaguas to the southward. As- cending the Alatamaha river to a point about sixteen miles above St. Simon's island, they there landed and entered upon a permanent settlement, which they called New Inverness. Here they erected a fort, mounting four pieces of cannon, built a guard-house, a store, and a chapel, and constructed huts for temporary accommodation preparatory to initting Frederica. 4^ up more substantial structures. These Scots were a brave, hardy people, just the men to occupy this advanced posi- tion. In their plaids, and with their broad-swords, targets, and firearms, Oglethorpe says they presented " a most manly appearance." Upon their arrival in Savannah some of the Carolinians endeavored to dissuade them from going to the southward by teUing them that the Spaniards, fi-om the houses in their fort, would shoot them upon the spot selected by the Trus- tees for their future home. Nothing daunted, these doughty countrymen of Bruce and Wallace responded* "we will beat them out of their fort and shall have houses ready built to live in." This valiant spirit found subsequent ex- pression in the effective military service rendered by these Highlanders during the wars between the Colonists and the Spaniards, and by their decendants in the primal struggle for independance. To John Moore Mcintosh, Captain Hugh MacKay, Ensign Charles MacKay, Colonel John Mc- intosh, General Lachlan Mcintosh, and their gallant follow- ers, Georgia, both as a Colony and a State, owes a special debt of gratitude. On the 5th of February, 1735, t two hundred and two persons, upon the Trust's account, conveyed in the Symond and the London Merchant, and conducted by Oglethorpe in person, arrived at the mouth of the Savannah river. It was his intention to locate all these emigrants at St. Simon's island, but, in compliance with their earnest entreaty, such of them as were German Lutherans were permitted to join *See Letter of Gen'l Oglethorpe to the Trustees under date February 27th, 1735-6. Col- lections of the Georgia Historical Society, Vol. iii, p. 1.5. Savannah, 1873. t A Voyage to Georgia, begun in the year 1735 by Francis Moore, p. 17. London 1744. Compare Harris' Complete Collection of Voyages and Travels, Vol. ii, p. 330. London, 1748. An Account Showing the Progress of the Colouy of Georgia, &c., p. 20. London, 1741. 7 50 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. their frieuds at Ebeuezer. Upon leaving London it was con- templated that the Symond and the London Merchant should sail directly for Jekyll sound, and land their passengers at the point where it was proposed that the new town should be located. The timidity of the captains, however, who, in the absence of experienced pilots, feared the dangers of an unknown entrance, caused this deviation in the voyage. Having engaged the services of lifty Rangers and one hundred workmen, and having dispatched Captain McPlier- son with a part of his command to march by land to the suppport of the Highlanders on the Alatamaha, Mr. Ogle- thorpe who, since his arrival, had been busily occupied in arranging matters at Savannah and Old Ebenezer, returned to the ships which were still lying in Tybee roads. Finding their captains unwilling to risk their ships without having previously acquired a knowledge of the entrance into Jekyll sound, he bought the cargo of the sloop Midnight, which had just arrived, on condition that it should be at once delivered at Fredrica, and with the understanding that captains Cor- nish and Thomas should go on board of her, acquaint them- selves with the coast and entrance, and then return and conduct their vessels to Frederica. During their absence these ships, the Symond and the London Merchant, their cargoes still on board, were to remain at anchor at Tybee roads in charge of Francis Moore, who was appointed keeper of the stores. Mr. Horton and Mr. Tanner, with thirty single men of the C-olony, and cannon, arms, ammunition and entrenching tools, were ordered to proceed to the south- ward with the sloop Midnight. The workmen who had been engaged at Savannah, and Tomo-chi-ehi's Indians were di- rected to rendezvous at convenient points wdience they might be transported as occasion required. The sloop sailed FREDERICA. 51 for St. Simon's islaucl on the morning of the 16th, and at evening of the same day Mr. Oglethorpe set out in the scout boat to meet the sloop at Jekyll sound. Captain Hermsdorf, two of the Colony, and some Indians went with him, and Captain Dunbar accompanied him with his boat. They passed through the inland channels lying between the outer islands and the main. "Mr. Oglethorpe being in haste," says one of the party, " the Men rowed Night and Day, and had no other Rest than what they got when a Snatch of Wind favoured us. They were all very willing, though we met with very boisterous Weather. * ^ * The Men vied with each other who should be forwardest to please Mr. Oglethorpe. Indeed he lightened their Fatigue by giving them Refreshments, which he rather spared from himself than let them want. The Indians seeing the Men hard laboured, desired to take the Oars, and rowed as well as any I ever saw, only differing from the others by taking a short and long Stroke alternately, which they called the Yamasee Stroke." On the morning of the 18th they reached St. Simon's island and found that the .sloop had come in ahead of, and was waiting for them. Mr. Oglethorpe at once set all hands to work. The tall grass growing upon the bluff at Frederica was burnt off, a booth was marked out "to hold the stores, digging the ground three Foot deep, and throwing up the Earth on each Side by way of Bank, and a roof raised upon Crutches with Ridge-pole and Rafters, nailing small Poles across, and thatching the whole with Palmetto-leaves. Mr. Oglethorpe afterwards laid out several Booths without digging under Ground, which were also covered with Palmetto Leaves, to lodge the Families of the Colony in when they should come up ; each of these Booths was between thirty and forty Foot 52 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. long, and upwards of twenty Foot wide. * * We all made merry that Evening, having a plentiful Meal of Game brought in by the Indians. " On the 19th, in the Morning, Mr. Oglethorpe began to mark out a Fort with four Bastions, and taught the Men how to dig the Ditch, and raise and turf the Rampart. This Day and the following Day were spent in finishing the Houses, and tracing out the Fort." " Such was the simple beginning of Frederica.f Near the town Mr. Oglethorpe fixed the only home he ever owned in the Province. In, its defence were enlisted his best energies, military skill, and valor. Brave are the memories of St. Simon's island. None prouder belong to the colonial history of Georgia. Three days afterwards arrived fi'om Savannah a periagua with workmen, provisions, and cannon, for the new settle- ment. Captains Cornish and Thomas returned from the southward to Tybee roads on the 26tli and, although assured of the fact that there was ample water for the conveyance of their vessels to. Frederica, still refused to conduct the Symond and the London Merchant to the southward. Mr. Oglethorpe was consequently compelled to consent that tlieii" cargoes should be unloaded into the "Peter and James," which could not carry above one hundred tons, and the rest transferred in sloops to Savannah for safe storage until such time as opportunity offered for conveying it to its destination. He was also put to the great inconvenience of collecting peri- aguas| sufl&cient for the transportation of the Colonists. * Moore's Voyage to Georgia, &c., p. 44. London, 1744. t Named by Oglethorpe after Frederick, Prince of Wales. t These are "long flat-bottomed boats carrying from 20 to 35 Tons. They have a kind of a Forecastle and a Cabbin : but the rest open, and no Deck. They have two Masts, which they can strike, and Sails like Schooners. They row generally with two Oars only." FEEDERICA. 53 Much incensed at the conduct of the Captains of the transports, and inconvenienced by the demurrage conse- quent upon their timidity, he was also indignant at the dehiy thus caused in the consummation of his plans, annoyed at the additional charges for transfer of passengers and cargo, and solicitous for the health of the colonists who would be exposed in open boats, at an inclement season, during the passage from Tybee roads to Jekyll sound. It was not until the 2nd of March that the Heet of peria- guas and boats, with the families of the Colonists on board, set out from the mouth of the Savannah river. Spare oars had been rigged for each boat. With their assistance, the men of the Colony rowing with a will, the voyage to Fred- erica was accomplished in five days. Mr. Oglethorpe accom- panied them in his scout-boat, keeping the fleet together, and taking the hindermost craft in tow. As an incentive to unity of movement, he placed all the strong beer on board one boat. The rest labored diligently to keep up ; for, if they were not all at the place of rendezvous each night, the tardy crew lost their ration. Frederica was reached on the 8th, and there was general joy among the colonists. So diligently did they labor in building their town and its fortifications, that by the 23rd of March a battery of cannon, commanding the river, had been mounted, and the fort was almost finished. Its ditches had been dug, although not to the required depth or width, and a rampart raised and cov- ered with sod. A store-house, having a front of sixty feet, and intended to be three stories in height, was completed as to its cellar and first story. The necessary streets were all laid out. " The Main Street that went from the Front into the Country was 25 yards wide. Each Free-holder had 60 Foot in Front by 90 Foot in Depth, upon the high Street, 54 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. for their House and Garden ; but those whicli fronted the Eiver had but HO Foot in Front, by 60 Foot .in Depth. Each Family had a Bower of Palmetto Leaves, finished upon the back Street in their own Lands : The Side towards the front Street w^as set out for their Houses : These Pal- metto Bowers were very convenient Shelters, being tight in the hardest Rains ; they were about 20 Foot long and 14 Foot wide, and, in regular Rows, looked very pretty, the Palmetto Leaves lying smooth and handsome, and of a good Coloui'. The whole appeared something like a Camp ; for the Bowers looked liked Tents, only being larger and cover- ed with Palmetto Leaves instead of Canvas. There were 3 large Tents, two belonging to Mr. Oglethorpe, and one to Mr. Horton, pitched upon the Parade near the River." Such is the description of the town in its infancy as fur- nished by Mr. Moore, whose "Voyage to Georgia" is one of the most interesting and valuable tracts Ave have descrip- tive of the colonization. That there might be no confusion in their constructive labors, Mr, Oglethorpe divided the Colonists into working parties. To some was assigned the duty of cutting forks, poles, and laths for building the bowers. Others set them up. Others still gathered palmetto leaves, while a fourth gang, under the superintendence of a Jew workman, bred in Brazil and skilled in the matter, thatched the roofs " nimbly and in a neat manner." Men accustomed to the agriculture of the region, in- structed the Colonists in hoeing and plantmg. Potatoes, Lidian corn, flax, hempseed, barley, turnips, lucern-grass, pumpkins, and water-melons were planted. The labor was common and enured to the benefit of the entire community. As it was rather too late in the season to prepare the ground FREDERIOA. 55 fully and get in snch a crop as Avould promise a yield suflfi- cient to subsist the settlement for the coming year, many of the men were put upon pay and set to work upon the fortifications and the public buildings. Mr. Hugh MacKay, about this time, arrived in Frederica and reported, that with the assistance of Messrs. Augustine and Tolme, and the guides furnished by Tomo-chi-chi, he had surveyed and located a road, practicable for horses, between Savannah and Darien. This information was very gratifying to the Colonists on St. Simons, assuring them, as it did, that their situation was not so isolated as they at first supposed. Frederica was located in the midst of an Indian field* con- taining between thirty and forty acres of cleared land. The grass in this field yielded an excellent turf whicli was freely used in sodding the parapet of the fort. The bluff upon which it stood rose about ten feet above high-water mark, was dry and sandy, and exhibited a level expanse of about a mile into the interior of the island. The position of the fort was such that it fully commanded the reaches in the river both above and below. With their situation the Colo- nists were delighted. The harbor was land-locked,t having *The Aborigines cleared considerable spaces on the Sea Islands along the Georgia Coast, planting them with maize, pumpkins, gourds, beans, melons, &c. These indications of earlj' agriculture were not infrequent in various portions of the State. The richest localities were selected by the Aborigines for cultivation : tlieir principal towns and maize-fields being generally found in rich valleys where a generous soil yielded, with least labor, the most remunerativ^e harvest. The trees were killed by girdling them by means of stone axes. They then decayed and fell iiiecemeal. So old were these Indian fields that in them no traces appeared of the roots and stumps even of the most durable trees. The occupancy of these islands by the Red race was general and of long duration. Prominent bluffs are to this day marked by their refuse heaps, composed chiefly of the shells of oysters, conchs, and clams, and the bones of the animals, reptiles, birds, and fishes upon which they subsisted, intermingled with sherds of pottery, and broken articles, and relics of various sorts. Many localities are hoary with ancient shell-mounds, while sepulchral tumuli of earth are not infrequent. Besides the x)rimitive population permanently domiciled on these islands, at certain seasons of the year, large numbers of Indians from the main here congregated and spent much time in hunting and fishing. t An Impartial Enquiry into the State and Utility of the Province of Georgia, pp. 40 and 41. London. 1741. 56 THE DEAD TOWNS OP GEOKGIA. a dei^tli of twenty-two feet of water at the bar, and capable of affording safe anchorage to a large number of ships of considerable burden. Surrounded by beautiful forests of live-oak, water oaks, laurel, bay, cedar, sweet-gum, sassafras, and pines, festooned with luxuriant vines, [among which those bearing the Fox-grape and the Muscadine were pecu- liarly pleasing to the Colonists,] and abounding in deer, rabbits, raccoons, squirrels, wild-turkeys, turtle-doves, red- birds, mocking birds, and rice birds," with wide extended marshes frequented by wild geese, ducks, herons, curlews, cranes, plovers, and marsh-hens, the adjacent waters teem- ing with fishes, crabs, shrimiis, and oysters, and the island fanned by South-East breezes prevailing with the regularity of the trade winds the strangers were charmed with their new home. Within their fort were enclosed and preserved several of those grand old live-oaks which for centuries had crowned the bluff, and whose shade was refreshing beyond any shelter the hand of man could devise. The town sprang into being as a military post. It was ordered and grew day by day under the immediate supervision of Ogle- thorpe. The soil of the island was fertile, and its health unquestioned. Lieutenant George Dunbar, on the 20th of January, 1739, made oath before Francis Moore, Recorder of the Town of Frederica, that since his arrival with the first detachment of Colonel Oglethorpe's regiment the pre- ceding June, all the carpenters and many of the soldiers had been continuously occupied in building clap-board huts, carrying lumber and bricks, unloading vessels, [often work- ing up to their necks in water,] in clearing the parade, burn- ing wood and rubbish, making lime, and in other out-door exercises, the hours of labor being from dayhght until * Buffalo and quail were found on the. Main. FREDERlCA. 57 eleven or twelve M. and from two or three o'clock in the afternoon until dark. Despite these exposures, continues the Affiant, " All the time the men kept so healthy that often no man in the camp ailed in the least, and none died except one man who came sick on board and never worked at all ; nor did I hear that any of the men ever made the heat a pretence for not working."* Beyond question Frederica was the healthiest of all the early settlements in Georgia, and St. Simon's island has always enjoyed an enviable reputation for salubrity. Until marred by the desolations of the late war, this island was a favorite summer resort, and the homes of the planters were the abodes of beauty, comfort, and refinement. A mean temperature of about fifty degrees in winter, and not above eighty-two degrees in summer, gardens adorned with choice flowers, and orchards enriched with plums, peaches, necta- rines, figs, melons, pomegranates, dates, oranges and limes, forests rendered majestic by the live-oak, the pine, and the magnolia grandiflora, and redolent with the perfumes of the bay, the cedar and the myrtle, the air fresh and buoyant with the South-East breezes, and vocal with the notes of song-birds, the adjacent sea, sound, and inlets, replete with fishes, the shell roads and broad beach affording every facility for driving and riding, the woods and fields abound- ing with game in their season, and the culture and generous hospitality of the inhabitants, impressed all visitors with the delights of this favored spot. Sir Charles Lyell, among others, alludes with marked satisfaction to the pleasures he there experienced. * State of the Province of Georgia attesteil upon Oath, &c., ji. 'io. London. 1742. Compare Affidavits of Lieut. Raymond Demare, Hugh MacKaj', and John Guthbert, to same eflfect. An Impartial Enquiry into the State and Utility of the Province of Georgia, pp. 61, 63, 64. London, 1741. 8 58 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. Among the reptiles which not onh- attracted the notice of, but, to a considerable degree, upon first acquaintance, dis- quieted the early Colonists, the alligators were the most noted. Listen to this description furnished lij an eye- witness"^" in 173G : "They are terrible to look at, stretching open an horrible large Mouth, big enough to swallow a Man, with Rows of dreadful large sliar)) Teeth, and Feet like Drag- gons, armed with great Claws, and a long Tail which they throAv about with great Strength, and which seems their best Weapon, for their Claws are feebly set on, and the Stiffness of their Necks hinders them from turning nimbly to bite." In order that the public mind might be disal)used of the terror which pervaded it witli respect to these reptiles, Mr. Ogle- thorpe, having wounded and caught one, had it brought to Savannah and made the boys bait it with sticks and finally pelt and beat it to death. The rattle snakes, too, were objects of special dread. Leaving his people busily occupied with the labors as- signed to them at Frederica, Mr, Oglethorpe set out on the 18th of Marcht for the frontiers, " to see where his Majesty's Dominions and the Spaniards joyn.":|: He was accompanied by " Toma-Chi-Chi, Mico, and a Body of Indians, who, tho' but few, being not forty, were all chosen Warriors and good Hunters." They were conveyed in two Scout Boats, and the next day were joined by the periagua, commanded by Captain Hugh MacKay, with thirty Highlanders, ten men of the Independent Company, and entrenching tools and provi- sions on board. Ujion the north-western point of Cumber- * Francis Moore, Voyago to Goorf^ia. &<., p. 57. Lontlou, 1744. t Moore says April. See A Voyage to Georgia, p. (iH. London. 1744. + Oglctliorpc's letter to the Lieutenant Governor of South Carolina. Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. iii, p. 28. Savannah, 1873. FREDERICA. 59 land island* washed by the bay on tlie one side, and on the other by .the channel running to the southward, Oglethorpe marked out a fort, called it St. Andrews, and left Captain MacKay with his command to build it, and some Indians to hunt and shoot for them while thus employed. Proceeding on his voyage, Mr. Oglethorpe named the next large Island to the South, Amelia,!" " it being a beautiful Island, and the Sea-shore cover'd with Myrtle, Peach-Trees, Orange-Trees, and Vines in the wild Woods." Tomo-chi-chi conducted him to the mouth of the St. Johns, pointed out the advanced post occupied by the Spanish Guard, and indicated the dividing Hue. It was with difficulty that the old chief and his followers could be restrained from making a night attack upon the Spaniards, upon whom they thirsted to take revenge for the killing of some Indians during the Mico's absence in England. Stopj^ing at fort St. Andrews on his way back, Oglethorpe was surprised to find the work in such a state of " forwardness, the Ditch being dug, and the Parapet raised with Wood and Earth on the Land-side, and the small Wood clear'd fifty yards round the Fort." This seemed the more extraordinary, adds Francis Moore, because Mr. MacKay had no engineer, or any assistance other than the directions which Mr. Oglethorpe gave. The ground consisting of loose sand, it was a difficult matter to construct the parapets : " therefore they used the same Method to support it as Ctesar mentions in the Wars of GauJ, laying Trees and Earth alternately, the Trees prevent- * This island \va.s named Witsm by the Indians, signifying Sasmfras. It was called Cnmberlaud in memory of his^ Royal Highness, the Duke of Cumberland, at the sugges- tion of Tooualidwi, nephew of Tomo-chi-uhi, to whom, during liis visit to England, the Duke had given a gold repeating watch, that he "might know how the time went." " We will remember him at all times," said Toonahowi, " and therefore will give this Island this name." t Called by the Spaniards Haiila Haria. ' 60 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. iug the S.iud fiom falling, and the Sand the AVood from Fu-e." Upon their return to Frederica the Indians encamped near the town, and, on the 26tli, favored Mr. Oglethorpe and all the ])eople with a War Dance. " They made a Ring, in the middle of which four sat down, having little Drums made of Kettles, cover'd with Deer-skins, upon which they beat and sung : Bound tliem the others danced, being naked to their Waists, and round their Middles many Trinkets tied with Skins, and some with the Tails of Beasts hanging down behind them. They painted their Faces and Bodies, and their Hair was stuck with Feathers : In one Hand they had a Battle, in the other Hand the Feathers of an Eagle, made up like the Caduceus of Mercury : The}' shook these Wings and the Battle, and danced round the Bing with high Bounds and antick Postures, looking much like the Figures of the Satyrs. " They shew'd great Activity, and kept just Time in their Motions ; and at certain times answer'd by way of Chorus, to those that sat in the Middle of the Bing. They stopt, and then stood out one of the chief Warriors, who sung what Wars he had been in, and described (by Actions as Avell as by Words) which Avay he had vanquish'd the Enemies of his Country. When he had done, all the rest gave a Shout of Approbation, as knowing what he said to be ^rue. The next Da}^ Mr. Oglethorpe gave Presents to Toma-chi-chi and his Indians, and dismiss'd them with Thanks for their Fidehty to the King."" For the further protection of the approaches to Frederica by the inland passages, a strong battery, called Fort St. Simons, was erected at the south end of St. Simons' island. * Moore's Voyage to Georgia, p. 71. Loudou, 17-14. FREDERICA. 61 It Avas desigued to command the entrance to Jekjll sound. Adjacent to it was laid out a camp containing barracks and huts for the soldiers. At the southern extremity of Cumber- land island Fort William was afterwards built with a view to controlling Amelia sound and the inland passage to St. Augustine. Upon San Juan island to the south, and near the entrance of the St. Johns river, Oglethorpe had observed the traces of an old fort. Thither he sent Captain Herms- dorf, and a detachment of Highlanders, with instructions to repair and occupy it. Having ascertained that this island was included in the cession of lands made by the Indians to his Majesty, he named the island George, and called the fortification fort St. George. With the exception of one or two posts of observation, this constituted the most southern defense of the Colony, and was regarded as an important position for holding the Spaniards in check, and for giving the earliest intelligence of any hostile demonstration on their part.* The energy and boldness displayed by the Com- mander in Chief in developing his line of occupation so far to the south, aiid in the very teeth of the Spaniards in Florida, are quite remarkable, and indicate on his part not only a daring bordering upon rashness, but also no little confidence in the courage and firmness of the small garrisons detailed to fortify and hold these advanced and isolated positions. Returning to Frederica from this tour of observation, Mr. Oglethorpe found the workmen busily occupied in construct- ing the fort, whose outer works were being " palisaded with Cedar Posts to prevent our Enemies turning up the green Sod." Upon the bastions, platforms of two inch plank were *0n the South-west side of Cuiubcrlaml iKland, iincl npon a high neck of land command- ing the water approaches each way, Fort St. Andrews was subsequently built. "Its walls were of wood, filled in with earth. Round about were a ditch and a i)alisade."t t Wesley's Journal, p. (Jl. Bristol, n. d. Ct2 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. laid for the cannon. A piece of marsli Ijdug below the fort Avas converted into a water battery, called "the Spur," the guns of -svliich, being on a level with the water, were admiral )ly located for direct and effective operation against all vessels either ascending or descending the river. A well was dug within the fort which yielded an abundant supply of " tolerable good water." The people having no bread, and tlie store of biscuits being needed for the crews of the boats which were kept constantly moving fi'om point to point, an oven was built, and an indented servant, a baker by trade, was detailed to bake bread for the Cohjny. For the flour furnished by each individual an equal weight was returned in bread, "the difference made by the water and salt" being the baker's gain. This fresh bread, in the lan- guage of one who })artook of it, was a great comfort to the people. Venison brought in by the Indians was frequently issued in lieu of salt provisions; and jjoultry, hogs, and sheep were occasionally killed for the sick. Siicli domestic animals, however, were, at that early period, so scarce in the settle- ment, that they were carefully guarded for the purpose of breeding. A little later, live stock came forward in abund- ance, by boats from Port Royal and Savannah. Grave apprehensions were entertained of an attack from the Spaniards, and Mr. Oglethorpe was untiring in his efforts to place the southern frontier in the best possible, state of defense. It is remarkable how much was accomplished under the circumstances. His taiergy Avas boundless, his watchfulness unceasing. Scout boats were constantly on duty observing the water approaches fi'oni the south as far MS the mouth of the St. Johns. Indian runners narrowly watched the walls of St. Augustine, and conveyed intelligence of every movement by the enemy. Look-outs were main- I^REDEKiCA. 03 tained at all necessary points to give warning of threatened danger. Mr. Bryan and Mr. Barnwell promised, in case Frederica or its out-posts were attacked, to come to their support with a strong body of volunteers from Carolina. Chiefs of the Cheehaws and the Ci'eeks volunteered their assistance. Acting upon the belief that it was better to confront the Spaniards upon the confines of the Colony than abide the event of their invasion, volunteers came in such numbers from Carolina and Georgia that General Oglethorpe was compelled to issue orders that all who had plantations should remain at home and cultivate them until actually summoned to arms. Hearing a report that the Spaniards were intent upon dislodging the settlers from Frederica, Ensign Delegal, taking thirty men of the Independent Company under his command, and rowing night and day, reached Frederica on the lOtli of May and tendered his services. Without per- mitting them to land, Oglethorpe ordered English strong beer and pro\^sions on board, sent a present of wine to Ensign Delegal, and, upon the same tide, in his scout boat conducted the party to the east point of St. Simons island where it is washed by Jekyll sound, and there posted the company, locating a spot for constructing a fort, and com- manding a well to be dug. By the 16th, Ensign Delegal had succeeded in casting up a considerable entrenchment and in mounting several cannon. This post, strengthened on the 8tli of June by the arrival of Lieutenant Delegal, with the rest of the Independent Company and thirteen pieces of cannon belonging to them, was subsequently known as Delegal's Fort at the Sea-point. The workmen at Frederica were diligently emjjloyed in 64 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. building a powder magazine under one of the bastions of the fort. It was made of heavy timber covered with several feet of earth. The construction of a large store-house, a smith's forge, a wheelwright's shop, and a corn-house also engaged their attention. The men capable of bearing arms w^ere trained in military exercises each day by Mr. Mcintosh. The Colonists were in a state of constant alarm, and every- thing was made subservient to the general defense. Even the feeble avowed their willingness to sacrifice their hves in protecting their new homes. Inspired by the intrepidity and vigilance, the fearlessness and the activity of the Gen- eral, who was constantly on the move, visiting the advanced works, pressing his reconnoissances even Avithin the enemy's lines, and making every available disposition of men and munitions which could conduce to the common safety, soldiers and citizens kept brave hearts, labored incessantly and cheerfully, observed a sleepless watch upon the sea and its inlets, and stood prepared to offer stout resistance to the Spaniard. It was a manly sight, that little colony fearlessly planting itself upon island and 'headland, separated from all substantial support, and yet extending itself on land and water to the very verge of hostile lines held by an enemy greatly superior in men and the appliances of warfare. This state of uncertainty and alarm continued along the southern frontier of Ge(n*gia until, by conference between Mr. Oglethorpe and the Spanish Commissioners in Jekyll sound on the 19th of June, there occurred an amicable adjustment of pending disputes. The healths of the King and Royal Family of Great Britain, and of the King and Queen of Spain, were drank amid salvos of artillery from the sloop HaAvk and the Sea-Point Battery ; and when the Spaniards set out on the 22d to return to St. Augustine, they FREDERIC A. 05 expressed themselves pleased with their reception and amicably inclined towards the Colony and its knightly General. This period of tranquility was of l)ut short dura- tion. In the fall of the year a peremptory demand was made by the Spanish Government f(3r the evacuation by the English of all territory lying south of St. Helena's sound. Perceiving that vigorous measures and a stronger force were requisite for the preservation of the Colony, and yielding to the solicitations of the Trustees that he should be present at the approaching meeting of Parliament to in- fluence larger supplies for Georgia, Mr. Oglethorpe, having made the best possible arrangements for the government and protection of the province during his absence, embarked for England on the 29th of November, 1736.* During his absence in England, nothing of special moment transpired on the southern frontiers. Mr. Horton appears to have been left in general charge of the defenses in that quarter. He established himself at Erederica, whence he made frequent tours of inspection to its out-posts and de- pendent works. Of a visit which he paid to the town early in February, 1737, Mr. Stephens, Secretary of the Colony, gives us rather a stupid account,t from which we gather that the inhabitants were living " in perfect Peace and Quiet, without Eear of any Disturbance from Abroad, and without any Strife or Contention at Law at Home, where they sometimes opened a Court, but very rarely had any Thing to do in it." Only slight improvements had been made during the preceding year in clearing and cultivating land, because of the constant apprehension of incursion by the Sj^aniards, * See Wright's Memoir of Geu'l .Jaiiii>s Ogletliorpe, p. 167. Lonilon, 1867. tSee A .Joiirual of thu rroceerliiigs in Georgia, &c., vol. i, i). StH. Loudon, 1742. y 66 THE DEAD TOWNS OP GEORGIA. and the amount of militaiy service the able-bodied men were obliged to perform. Moved b}- the indications of hostility on the part of the Spaniards, and yielding to the entreaties of the Trustees* that additional troops be provided for the protection of the Colony, his Majesty, in June, 1737, appointed Oglethorpe General of all forces in Carolina as well as in Georgia, and authorized him to raise a regiment. In October of that year, and before his regiment had been fully recruited, he was commissioned as Colonel. The relief of Georgia being re- garded as important, a body of troops was sent thither from Gibraltar, which reached Savannah earlj in May, 1738, and was transferred from that point to the South for the defense of the frontiers. The famous clergyman George Whitefield, detailed to take Mr. Wesley's place in the Colony, was a passenger on board the ship in which these soldiers were transported. About the same time two or three companies of the General's own regiment, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel James Cochrane, arrived in Charleston, and were marched southward by the road which ran from Port Royal to Darien.i' Oglethorpe's regiment was limited to six companies of one hundred men each, exclusive of non- commissioned officers and drummers. To it a grenadier company was subsequently attached. Disdaining to " make a market of the service of his country " by selling commis- sions, the General secured the appointment, as officers, only of such persons as were gentlemen of family and character in their respective counties. He also engaged about twenty young gentlemen of no fortune to serve as cadets. These he subsequently promoted as vacancies occurred. So far *See one of the Memorials of the Trustees in ''An Account Shewing the Progress of the Colony of Georgia," &c., p. 58. London, 1741. 1 See Wright's Memoir of Oglethorpe, p. 101. Loudon, 1867. FREDERICA. 67 from deriving any pecuniary benefit from these appoint- ments, the General, in some cases, from his private fortune advanced the fees requisite to procure commissions, and provided moneys for the purchase of uniforms and clothing. At his own expense he engaged the services of forty super- numeraries, "a circumstance," says a contemporaneous writer, "very extraordinar}- in our armies, especiallj^ in our plantations." In order to engender in the hearts of the enlisted men an interest in and an attachment for the Colony they were designed to defend, and with a view to induce them even- tually to become settlers, permission Avas granted to each to take a wife with him. For the support of the wife, addi- tional pay and rations were provided.* So carefully was this regiment recruited and officered, that it constituted one of the best military organizations in the service of the King. Sailing from Portsmouth on the otli of July, 1738, with the rest of his regiment, numbering, with the women, children, and supernumeraries who accompanied, between six and seven hundred souls, in five transports convoyed by the men of war Blandford and Hector, General Ogle- thorpe arrived safely in Jekyll sound on the 18tli of the following September.t The next day the troops were landed at the Soldiers Fort, on the south end of St. Simon's island* This arrival was welcomed by an- artillery salute from the battery, and by shouts from the garrison. Upon coming Avithin soundings off the Georgia coast on the 13th, Sir Yelverton Peyton, in the Hector, parted company and sailed for Virginia. Until the 21st, the General encamped near the * See Harris' Memorials of Oglethorpe, pp. 188, 189. Boston, 1841. Wright's Memoir of Oglethorpe, p. 191. London, 1867. Gentleman's Magazine, vol. viii, p. 164. t Stephens' Journal of Proceedings, vol. i, pp. 294, 295. London, 1742. 68 THE DEAD TO\YNS OF GEORGIA. Fort, superintending the disembarcation and issuing neces- sary orders. His regiment was now concentrated, and every officer is represented to have been at his post. Frederica Avas visited on the 21st, and there Oglethorjje was sahited with fifteen guns from the fort. The Magis- trates and towns-people waited upon him in a body, tender- ing their congratuhitions upon his return. Several Indians were present who assured him that the Up})er and Lower Creeks were in readiness to come and see him so soon as they should be notified of his presence.* In a letterf to Sir "Joseph Jekyll, under date 19th September, 1738, General Oglethorpe, alluding to the fact that the Spaniards, although having fifteen hundred men at St. Augustine, there bemg nothing but the militia in Georgia,^ had delayed their con- templated attack until the arrival of the Eegular Troops, acknowledges that God had thus given " the greatest marks of his visible Protection to the Colony." He advises Sir Joseph that the passage had been fine,^but one soldier having died, and that the inhabitants who had hitherto been so harrassed by Spanish threats were now cheerful, be- lieving that the worst was over, and that, relieved from the constant guard duty which they had been compelled to per- form, some times two days out of five, to the neglect of their crops and improvements, they might now prosecute their labors and make comfcn'table provision for the future. Re- ahzing the necessit}^ of opening direct communication be- tween Frederica and the Soldiers Fort at the south end of the island, on the 25th General Oglethorpe set every male to work cutting a road to connect those points. So energeti- cally was the labor prosecuted, that although the woods Gentleman's Magazine for January, 1730, p. 2'2. t Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. iii, p. 48. Savannah, 1873. FREDERICA. 69 were thick and the distance nearlj' six miles, the task ^vas compassed in three days. To the Honorable Thomas Spalding"-^ are we indebted for the following description of this important avenue of com- munication : " This road after passing out of the town of Frederica in a south-east direction, entered a beautiful prairie of a mile over, when it penetrated a dense, close oak wood ; keeping the same conrse for two miles, it passed to the eastern marsh that bounded St. Simon's seaward. Along this marsh, being dry and hard, no road was necessary, and none was made. This natural highway was bounded on the east by rivers and creeks and impracticable marshes ; it was bounded on the west, (the island side) by a thick wood covered with palmetto and vines of every character so as to be impracticable for any body of men, and could only be traveled singly and alone. This windiiig way along the marsh Avas continued for two miles, when it again passed up to the high land which had become open and clear, and from thence it proceeded in a direct line to the fort, at the sea entrance, around which, for two hundred acres, five acre allotments of land for the soldiers had been laid out, cleared, and improved. I have again been thus particiilar in my description, because it was to the manner in which this road was laid out and executed, that General Oglethorpe owed the preservation of the fort and town of Frederica. -^ * ^ His fort and batteries at Frederica were so situated as to water approaches, and so covered by a wood, that no num- ber of ships could injure them. And he now planned his land route in such a manner, that again the dense wood of our eastern islands became a rampart mighty to save. And * Sketch of the Life of Geuoral James Oglethorpe. Collections of the (Georgia Histori- cal Society, vol. i, p 2(>1. Savannah, ia4n. 70 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. fifty Highlanders and four Indians occupying these woods did save." "We learn from that admirable "History of the Kise, Pro- gress, and Present State of the Colony of Georgia," con- tained in Dr. Harris' Com])lete Collections of Voyages and Travels,* that "on the arrival of the Regiment of which Mr. Or/lethorpe was appointed Colonel, he distributed them in the properest manner for the Service of the Colony ; 1)ut not- withstanding this was of great Ease to the Trustees, and a vast Security to the Inhabitants, yet Colonel Oglethorpe still kept up the same Discipline, and took as much Care to form and regulate the Inhabitants with respect to military Affairs as ever. He provided likewise different Corps for different Services ; some for ranging the Woods ; others, light armed, for sudden Expeditions ; and he likewise provided Vessels for scouring the Sea Coasts, and for gaining Intelligence. In all which Services he gave at the same time his Orders and his Example ; there being nothing he did not which he directed others to do ; so that if he was the first Man in the Colony, his Pre-eminence was founded upon old Hosier's Maxims : He was the most fatigued, and the first in Danger, distinguished by his Cares and his Labours, not by any exterior Marks of Grandeur, more easily dispensed with, since they were certainly needless." The finances of the Trust being in a depressed condition, the General drew largely upon his private fortune and pledged his individual credit in conducting the operations necessary for the security of the southern fi-ontiers and in provisioning the settlers. To Alderman Heathcote he writes: "I am here" [at Frederica] "in one of the most delightful situations as any man could wish to be. A * Vol. 11. p.u3'J. London, 1748. PREDERICA. 71 great number of Debts, empty magazines, no money to supply them, numbers of people to be fed, mutinous soldiers to command, a Spanish Claim and a large body of their Troops not far from us. But as we are of the same kind of spirit, these Difficulties have the same effect upon me, as those you met with in the City, had upon you. They rather animate than daunt me."* Again, on the 16th of November, 1739, he advises the Trustees :t " I am fortifying the Town of Frederica s of the earth-works there thrown up may still be seen about a fourth of a mile north of the termination of the Bellamy road. Fairbanks' History and Antiquities of St Augiistine. pp. 144, 14.5. New York, 1858. t This work had been erected by Don Diego de .Spinosa upon his own estate. Its re- mains, with one or two cannon, are still visible. Idem, p. 144. H 82 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEOKGIA. In Januaiy, 17-40, the Spanish forces in Florida, by estab- lishment, consisted of the following organizations :* 1 Troop of Horse, uiiiubering lOO officers auci men. 1 Company of Artillery, " loO " :5 Independent Companies of old Troops, each " 100 " 2 Companies of the Regiment of Austurias, " " .58 " 1 Company " " " Valencia, " .5.3 " 1 " " " " Catalonia, " .53 2 Companies " " " Cantabria, " " .53 " 2 " " " " Mercia, " " r.3 Armed Negroes 200 " White Transports for labor, 200 I Company of Militia, (strength unknown.) Indians, (number not ascertained. ) It was General Oglethorpe's original purpose, as fore- shadowed in his dispatch of the 27th of March, 1740,t with four hundred regular troops of his regiment, one hundred Georgians, and such additional forces as South Carolina could contribute, to advance directly upon St. Augustine, and attack, by sea and land, the town and the island in its front. Both of these, he believed, could be taken " sword in hand." He would then summon the castle to surrender, or surprise it. Conceiving that the castle would be too small to afford convenient shelter for the two thousand one hundred men, women, and children of the town, he regarded the capitulation of the fortress as not improbable. Should it refuse to surrender, how- ever, he proposed to shower u])on it " Granado-shells from the Cohorns and Mortars, and send for the Artillery and Pioneers and the rest of the Aid promised by the As- sembly;:}: also for Mortars and Bombs from Providence;'" and, if the castle should not liave yielded prior to the *See Letter of General Otjlttliorpe to the Lieuteuant Governor of South Carolina, under date December 29, 1739. " The Spanish Hireling detected." etc., pp. .'57, .i8. London, 1743. Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. ni, pp. lOS, 109. Savannah, 1873. t" Spanish Hireling detected," etc., pp. .")9-(il. Loudon, 1713. tOi South Carolina. FREDERICA. 83 arrival of "these Aids," he was resolved to open trenches and conduct a siege which he reckoned would be all the easier, the garrison having been weakened by the summer's blockade. About the time of the concentration of the Georgia and Carolina forces for combined operations against St. Augus- tine, that town was materially reinforced by the arrival of six Spanish half-galleys, manned by two hundred regular troops and armed with long brass nine-pounder guns, and two sloops loaded with provisions. Warned by the preliminary demonstration which eventu- ated, as we have seen, in the capture of forts Francis de Papa and Diego, the enemy massed all detachments within the lines of St. Augustine, collected cattle from the adjacent region, and prepared for a vigorous defense. Apprehending that he might not be able to carry the town by assault from the land side, where its entrenchments were strong and well armed, unless supported by a demonstra- tion in force from the men of Avar approaching the town where it looks toward the sea and where it was not covered by earth-works, and being without the requisite pioneer corps and artillery train for the conduct of a regular siege, before putting his army in motion General Oglethorpe instructed the naval commanders to rendezvous off the bar of the north channel, and blockade that and the Matanzas pass to St. Augustine. Captain Warren, with two hundred sailors, was to land on Anastasia island and erect batteries for bombarding the town in front. When his land forces should come into position and be prepared for the assault, he was to notify Sir Yelverton Peyton, commanding the naval forces, and St. Augustine would thus be attacked on all sides. Shortly after the middle 84 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. of May, 1740, General Oglethorpe, with a land army num- bering over two thonsand regulars, militia, and Indians, moved upon St. Augustine. Fort Moosa," situated within two miles of that place, lay in his route. Upon his ap- proach the garrison evacuated it and retired within the lines of the town. Having burnt the gates of this fort and caused three breaches in its walls. General Oglethorpe, on the 5th of June, made his reconnoissances of the land defenses of St. Augustine and prepared for the contemplated assault. Everything being in readmess, the signal pre- viously agreed upon to insure tlie cooperation of the naval forces was given ; but, to the General's surprise and morti- fication, no response was returned. His forces being dis- posed and eager for the attack, the signal was repeated, but failed to evoke the anticipated answer. Satisfied that the town could not be carried without the assistance of the naval forces, and being ignorant of the cause of their non-action, the General reluctantly withdrew his army and placed it in camp at a convenient distance, there to remain until he could ascertain the reason of the failure on the part of the navy to cooperate in the plan which had been jDreconcerted. This failure was explained in this wise. Inside the bar, and at such a remove that they could not be affected by the fire of the British vessels of war, the FlamboroiTgh, the Phoenix, the Squirrel, the Tar- tar, the Spence, and the Wolf, Spanish gallies and half gallies were moored so as to effectually prevent the ascent of the barges intended for the attack, and preclude a landing of troops upon Anastasia island. The shallowness of the * This was an out-post on the North river, about two miles north of St. Augustine. A fortified line, a considerable portion of which may now be traced, extended across from the stoccades on the St. Sebastian to Fort Moosa. A communication by a tide creek existed through the marshes, between the Castle at St. Augustine and Fort Moosa. Fairbanks' History and Antiquities of St. Augustine, p. 144. New York, 1858. FREDERIC A. 85 water was sucli that the men of war could not advance near enough to dislodge them. Under the circumstances there- fore, Sir Yelverton Peyton found himself unable to respond to the important part assigned him in the attack. Advised of this fact, and chagrined at the non-realization of his original plan of operations, Oglethorpe determined at once to convert his purposed assault into a siege. The ships of war lying off the bar of St. Augustine Avere directed to narrowly observe every avenue of approach by water, and maintain a most rigid blockade. Colonel Palmer, with ninety-five Highlanders and forty-two Indians, was left at Fort Moosa with instructions to scout the woods inces- santly on the land side and intercept any cattle or supplies coming from the interior. To prevent surprise and capture, he was cautioned to change his camp each night, and keep always on the alert. He was to avoid anything like a general engagement with the enemy. Colonel Vanderdussen, with his South Carolina regiment, was ordered to take possession of a neck of land known as Point Quartel, about a mile distant from the castle, and there erect a battery. General Oglethorpe, with the men of his regiment and most of the Indians, embarked in boats and effected a landing on Anastasia island, where, having driven off a part}' of Spaniards there stationed as an advanced guard, he, with the assistance of the sailors from the fleet, began mounting cannon with which to bombard the town and castle.* Having by these dispositions completed his in- vestment, Oglethorpe summoned the Spanish Governor to *The main battery ou Anasta.sia island, called the Poza, was armed with four eighteen pounders and one nine pounder. Two eiLfhteon pounders were mounted on the point of the wood of the island. The remains of th(^ Poza battery are still to be seen, almost as distinctly marked as on the day of its erection. Four mortars and forty cohorns were employed in the siege. See Fairbanks' History and Antiquities of St. Augustine, p. lifi. New York, 1868. 86 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. a surrender. Secure in his strong-hold, the haughty Don "sent him for answer that he would be glad to shake hands with him in his castle." Indignant at such a response, the General opened his batteries upon the castle and also shelled the town. The fire was returned both bj the fort and the half gallies in the harbor. So gi-eat was the dis- tance, however, that although the cannonade was maintained with spirit on both sides for nearly three weeks, little damage Avas caused or impression produced.* It being evident that the reduction of the castle could not be ex- pected from the Anastasia island batteries. Captain Warren offered to lead a night attack upon the half gallies in the harbor which were effectually preventing all ingress by boats. A council of war decided that in as much as those galleys were covered by the guns of the castle, and could not be approached by the larger vessels of the fleet, any attempt to capture them in open boats Avould he accompanied by too much risk. The suggestion was therefore abandoned. Observing the besiegers uncertain in their movements, and their operations growing lax, and being sore pressed for provisions, the Spanish Governor sent out a detachment of three hundred men against Colonel Palmer. Unfortu- nately that officer, negligent of his instructions and ap- prehending no danger from the enemy, remained two or three consecutive nights at Fort M(^osa. This detachment, under the command of Don Antonio Salgrado, passed quietly out of the gates of St. Augustine during the night of June 14th, and after encountering a most desperate resist- ance, succeeded in capturing Fort Moosa at day light, the The light guns, from their long range, caused trifling effect upon the .strong walls of the castlf. When struck, they received the balls in their spongy, infrangible emV)race. and sustained comparatively little injury. The marks of their impact may be noted to this day. FREDERICA. 87 next morning. Colonel Palmer fell earl}' in the action. The Highlanders "fought like lions," and "made such havoc witli their broadswords as the Spaniards cannot easily forget." This hand-to-hand contlict was won at the cost to the enemy of more than one hundred lives. Colonel Palmer, a Captain, and twenty Highlanders were killed. Twenty-seven were captured. Those Avho escaped made their way to Colonel Vanderdussen at Point Quartel. Thus was St. Augustine relieved from the prohibition which had hitherto estopped all intercourse with the surrounding country. Shortly after the occurrence of this unfortunate event, the vessel which had been blockading the Matanzas river was withdrawn. Taking advantage of the opportunity thus afforded, some small vessels from Havana, with provisions and reinforcements, reached St. Augustine by that narrow channel, bringing great encouragement and relief to the garrison. This reinforcement was estimated at seven hun- dred men, and the supply of provisions is said to have been large. "Then," writes Hewitt,'" whose narrative we have followed in the main, "all prospects of starving the enemy being lost, the army began to despair of forcing the place to surrender. The Carolinean troops, enfeebled by the heat, dispirited by sickness, and fatigued by fruit- less efforts, marched away in large bodies. The navy being short of provisions, and the usual season of hurricanes approaching, the commander judged it imprudent to hazard his Majesty's ships b}^ remaining longer on that coast. Last of all, the General himself, sick of a fever, and his regiment worn out with fatigue and rendered unfit for * Historical Account of the Rise and Progress of the Colonies of South Carolina and Georgia, vol. u, p. 81. London, 1779. 88 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. action by a flax, with sorrow and regret followed, and reached Frederica about the 10th of July, 1740." The Carolineans, under Colonel Vanderdussen, proved themselves inefficient, " turbulent, and disobedient." They lost not a single man in action, and only fourteen deaths occurred from sickness and accident. Desertions were fre- quent." Upon Oglethorpe's regiment, and the Georgia companies, devolved the brunt of the siege. On the .5th of July the artillery and stores on Anastasia island were brought off, and the men crossed over to the mainland. t Vanderdussen and his regiment at once commenced a disorderly retreat in the direction of the St. Johns, leaving Oglethorpe and his men within half-cannon shot of the castle. In his dis- patch to the Secretary of State, dated Camp on St. Johns in Florida, July 19th, 1740, the General thus describes his last movements : " The Spaniards made a sail}', with about 500 men, on me who lay on the land side. I ordered En- sign Cathcart with twenty men, supported by Major Heron and Captain Desbrisay with upwards of 100 men, to attack them ; I followed with the body. We drove them into the works and pursued them to the very barriers of the covered way. After the train and provisions were em- barked and safe out of the harbour, I marched with drums beating and colours flying, in the day, from my camp near * Stephens says, * * Most of the gay Volunteers rvin away by small Parties, basely and cowardly, as they could get Boats to carry them oft' during the Time of greatest Action : and Capt. BtiJl, (a son of the Lieiitenant-Governor) who had the Command of a Comijany in that Regiment, most scandalously deserted his Post when upon Duty, and not staying to be relieved regularly, made his Flight privately, carrying off four Men of his Guard with him, and escaped to Charlea Town ; for which lie ought in Justice to have been tried as a Deserter ; but he was well received at home. Journal of Proceedings, &c., vol. tl, p. 462. London, 1742. Compare Ramsay's History of South Carolina, vol. i, p. 143. Charleston, 1H09. t Wright's Memoir of General James Oglethorpe, p. 254. London, 18G7. PREDERiCA. 89 the town to a camp three miles distant, where I lay that night. The next day I marched nine miles, where I en- camped that night. We discovered a party of Spanish horse and Indians whom we charged, took one horseman and killed two Indians ; the rest ran to the garrison. I am now encamped on St. Johns river, waiting to know what the people of Carolina would desire me farther to do for the safety of these provinces, which I think are very much exposed to the half-galleys, with a wide ex- tended frontier hardly to be defended by a few men." In one of the Indian chiefs Oglethorjje found a man after his own heart. When asked by some of the retreat- ing troops to march with them, his reply was, " No ! I will not stir a foot till I see every man belonging to me marched off before me ; for I have always been the first in advancing towards an enemy, and the last in retreat- ing."* This failure to reduce St. Augustine may be fairly at- tributed I ; to the delay in inaugurating the movement, caused mainly, if not entirely, by the tardiness on the part of the South Carolina authorities in contributing the troops and provisions for which requisition had been made ; II ; to the reinforcement of men and supplies from Ha- vanna introduced into St. Augustine just before the English expedition set out ; thereby materially re- pairing the inequalit}- previously existing between the opposing forces ; * See Harris' Memorials of Oglethorpe, pp. 'i'.K 240. Boston, 1841, quoting from the Gentleman's Magazine. n 90 THE DEAD TOWNS Ol* GEORGIA. ITT ; to the injudicious movement against forts Francis de Papa and Diego, which put the Spaniards on the alert, encouraged concentration on their part, and foreshadowed an immediate demonstration in force against their stronghohl ; and IV ; to the inabiHty on the part of the fleet to partici- pate in the assault previously planned, and which w^as to have been vigorously undertaken so soon as General Oglethorpe with his land forces came into position before the walls of St. Augustine. V. The subsequent destruction of Colonel Palmer's com- mand, thereby enabling the enemy to communicate with and draw supplies from the interior, the lack of heavy ordnance with which to reduce the castle from the batteries on Anastasia island, the impos- sibility of bringing up the larger war vessels that they might participate in the bombardment, the inefficiency of Colonel Vanderdussen's command, the impatience and disappointment of the Indian allies who anticipated early capture and Uberal spoils, hot suns, heav}^ dews, a debilitating climate, sickness among the troops, and the arrival of men, munitions of war, and provisions through the Ma- tanzas river, in the end rendered quite futile every hope which at the outset had been entertained for a successful prosecution of the siege. Great was the disappointment upon the failure of the expedition, and unjust and harsh the criticisms levelled by not a few against its brave and distinguished leader.* We *Sfe " An Impartial A<'(oiint of the late Expedition at,'ainst St. Auj,'ustino under Gonrral Oglethorpe." &<., London, 1742. wliicli called forth " The Spanisli Hireling detected," &c., London, 174:1. FREDERICA. . 91 agree with the Duke of Argyle who, in the British House of Peers, declared " One man there is, my Lords, whose natural generosity, contempt of danger, and regard for the public prompted him to obviate the designs of the Span- iards, and to attack them in their own territories ; a man whom by long acquaintance I can confidently affirm to have been equal to his undertaking, and to have learned the art of war by a regular education, who yet miscarried in the design only for want of supplies necessary to a possibility of success." Although this attempt, so formidable in its character when we consider the limited resources at command, and so full of daring when we contemplate the circumstances under which it was undertaken, eventuated in disappoint- ment, its effects were not without decided advantages to the Colonies. For two years the Spaniards remained on the defensive, and General Oglethorjie enjoyed an oppor- tunity for strengthening his fortifications on St. Simons island, so that when the counter blow was delivered by his adversary he was in condition not only to parry it, but also to severely punish the uplifted arm."* For two months after the termination of this expedition, Oglethorpe lay ill of a continued fever contracted during *For fuller accouut of this demonstratiou agidust St. Augustine see Hax-ris' ' Complete Collection of Voyages and Travels," &c., pp. 339, 340. London, 1748. "An Impartial Ac- count of the late Expedition against St. Augustine," kc. London, 1742. "The Spanish Hireling detected," &c. London, 1713. Stephens' "Journal of Proceedings," &c., vol. ii, pp. 438, 444-448, 4G1 et aliter. London, 1742. Hewitt's "Historical Account of the Rise and Progress of the Colonies of South Carolina and Georgia," vol. n, chap, viii, pp. 6.'5-82. London, 1779. McCalls "History of Georgia," vol. I, pp. 143-1.51. Savannah, 1811. Ste- vens' "History of Georgia," vol. i., pp. 107-179. Xew York, 1847. Spalding's "Sketch of the Life of General James Oglethorpe," Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. i, pp. 26.5-272. Savannah, 1840. Harris' "Biographical Memorials of James Oglethorpe," pp. 222-242. Boston, 1841. Wright's "Memoir of General James Oglethori)e." &c., pp. 235- 255. London, 1867. Ramsay's " History of South Carolina," vol. I., pp. 140-144. Charles- ton, 1809, &c., &c., &c. Fairbanks' History and .\uti(iuitit^s of St. .Augustine, pp. 141-ir>2. New York, 1H58. 92 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. the exposures aud fatigues incident upon his exertions and anxieties during the siege. When, on the second of Sep- tember, Mr. Stephens called to see him at Frederica, he found him still troubled with a lurking fever and confined to his bed. His protracted sickness had so "worn away his strength" that he "seldom came down stairs, but re- tained still the same vivacity of spirit in appearance to all whom he talked with, though he chose to converse with w. ' Four companies of the regiment were now encamped at the south-east end of St. Simons island, and the other two at Frederica. So soon as the men recovered from the malady contracted at St. Augustine, they were busily occu- pied in erecting new fortifications aud strengthening the old. From these two camps detachments garrisoned the advanced works, St. Andrew, Fort William, St. George, and the outposts on Amelia island ; the details being relieved at regular intervals, t During the preceding seven years, Avhich constituted the entire life of the Colony, General Oglethorpe had enjoyed no respite from his labors. Personally directing all move- ments, supervising the location, and proAdding for the comfort, safety, and good order of the settlers, accom- modating their differences, encouraging and directing their labors, propitiating the Aborigines, infiuencing necessary supplies, and inaugurating suitable defences, he had been constantly passing from point to point finding no rest for the soles of his feet. Now in tent at Savannah, now in open boat reconnoitering the coast, now upon the southern islands, his only shelter the wide-spreading live-oak, *Steiihens' "Journal of Proceedings," &c., vol. u, pp. 4G7-16S, 4'.t4-4n5. London. 1742. t Idem, p. 496. FREDERICA. 93 designating sites for forts and look-outs, and with his own hands phxnning mihtary works and laying out villages, again in journeys oft along the Savannah, the Great Ogee- chee, the Alatamaha, the St. Johns, and far off into the heart of the Indian country, frecjuently inspecting his advanced posts, undertaking voyages to Charlestown and to England in behalf of the Trust, and engaged in severe contests ^ith the Spaniards, his life had been one of in- cessant activity and solicitude. But for his energy, intel- Hgence, watchfulness, and self-sacrilice, the enterprise must have languished. As we look back upon this period of trial, uncertainty, and poverty, our admiration for his achieve- ments increases the more narrowly we scan his limited resources and opportunities, the more intelligentl}^ we ap- preciate the difficulties he was called upon to surmount. Always present wherever duty called or danger threatened, he never expected others to })ress on w^here he himself did not lead. The only home he ever owned or claimed in Georgia was on St. Simons island. The only hours of leisure he ever enjoyed were spent in sight and sound of his military works along the southern frontier, upon whose safe tenure depended the salvation of the Colony. Just where the military road connecting Fort St. Simon with Frederica, after having traversed the beautiful prairie, constituting the common pasture land of the village, entered the woods. General Oglethorpe established his cottage. Adjacent to it were a garden, and an orchard of oranges, figs and grapes. Magnificent oaks threw their protecting shadows above and around this quiet, pleasant abode, fanned by delicious sea-breezes, fragrant with the perfume of flowers, and vocal with the melody of song-birds. To the westward, and in full view, were the fortifications 94 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. and the white houses of Frederica. Behind rose a dense forest of oaks. "This cottage and fifty acres of land attached to it," says the honorable Thomas Spalding in his "Sketch of the life of General James Oglethorpe,"* "was all the landed domain General Oglethorpe reserved to himself, and after the General went to England it became the property of my father. * * , - After the Kevolii- tioiiary war, the buildings being destroyed, my father sold this little i)roperty. But the oaks Avere only cut down within four or five vears past, and the elder people of St. Simons yet feel as if it Avere sacrilege, and mourn their fall." Here the defences of St. Simons island were under his immediate supervision. His troops were around him, and he Avas prepared, upon the first note of Avarning, to concentrate the forces of the Colony for active operations. In the neighborhood several of his officers established their homes. Among them, "Harrington Hall," the country seat of the wealthy Huguenot, Captain Kaymond Demere, enclosed with hedges of cassina, Avas conspicuous for its beauty and comfort. Including the soldiers and their families, Frederica in 1740 is said to have claimed a population of one thousand, t This estimate is perhaps somcAvhat exaggerated, although much nearer the mark than that of the discontents Tailfer, Anderson, and Douglas, Avho, in their splenetic and Jacobin- ical tract entitled " A True and Historical Narrative of the Colony of Georgi^i, in America," assert that of the one hundred and forty-four lots into Avhicli the toAA'n was divided, * Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. i, p. 273. Savannah, 1840. t Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. i, p. 274. Savannah, 1840. Bancroft's History of the United States, vol. in, p. 434. Boston, 18.52. In this estimate may properly be included .such officers and men of Oglethorpe's regiment as were there stationed. PREDERiCA. 95 only " about fifty were built upon," and that " the number of the Inhabitants, notwithstanding of the Circulation of the Regiment's money, are not over one hundred and twenty Men, Women, and Children, and these are daily stealing away by all possible Ways."* As we have already seen, the town was regularly laid out in streets called after the principal officers of Oglethorpe's regiment ; and, including the military camp on the north, the parade on the east, and "a small wood on the south which served as a blind to the enemy in case of attack from ships coming up the river," was about a mile and a half in circumference. The fort was strongly built of tabby and well armed. Several eighteen pounders, mounted on a ravehn in front, commanded the river, and the town was defended on the land side by substantial intrenchments. The ditch at the foot of these intrenchments was intended to admit the influx of the tide, thus rendering the isolation of Frederica complete, and materially enhancing the strength of its line of circumvallation. We reproduce from "An Impartial Enquiry into the State and Utility of the Province of Georgia "t the following contemporaneous notice : " There are many good Buildings in the Town, several of which are Brick. There is hkewise a Fort and Store-house belonging to the Trust. The People have a Minister who has a Salary fi-om the Society for propagating the Gospel. In the Neighbourhood of the Town, there is a fine Meadow of 320 Acres ditch' d in, on which a number * Page 106. Charles-Town, South Carolina, 1711. t Pages .51 and 52. London, 1741. Compare "A State of the Province of Georgia attests J upon Oath," &c., p. 11. Lon- don, 1742. " An Account Shewing the Progre-ss of the Colony of Georgia," &c., p. 3G. London, 1741. Wright's Memoir of Gen'l James Oglethorpe, pp. 263, 204. London, 1867. 96 THE DP!\D towns 01? GEORGIA. of Cattle are fed, and good Hay is likewise made from it. At some Distance from the Town is the Camp for General Oglethorpe's Regiment. The Country about it is well culti- vated, several Parcels of Land not far distant fi-om the Camp having been granted in small Lots to the Soldiers, many of whom are married, and lifty-five Children were born there in the last year. These Soldiers are the most industrious, and willing to plant ; the rest are generally desirous of Wives, but there are not Women enough in the Country to supply them. There are some handsome Houses built by the Officers of the Regiment, and besides the Town of Frederira there are other little Villages upon this Island. A sufficient Quantity of Pot-herbs, Pulse, and Fruit is produced there to suj)ply both the Town and Garrison ; and the People of Frederica have begun to malt and to 'brew; and the Soldiers Wives Spin Cotton of the Country, which they Knit into Stockings. At the Town of Frederica is a Town-Court for administring Justice in the Southern Part of the Province, with the same Number of Magistrates as at Savannah." At the village of St. Simon, on the south point of the island, was erected a walch-tower from which the move- ments of vessels at sea might be conveniently observed. Upon their appearance, their number was at once an- nounced by signal guns, and a horseman dispatched to head quarters with the particulars. A look-out was kept by a party of Rangers at Bachelor's Redoubt on the main, and a Corporal's guard was stationed at Pike's Bluff. To facilitate communication with Darien a canal was cut through General's island. Defensive works were erected on Jekyll island, where Captain Horton had a well improved plantation, and there a brewery was established for supply- FREt)ERICA. 97 ing the troops with beer. On Cumberland island were three batteries, Fort St. Andrew, built in 1736, on high coru- manding ground, at the north-east point of the island, a batter}' on the west to control the inland navigation, and Fort William, a work of considerable strength and regu- larity, commanding the entrance to St. Mary's river. Two companies of Oglethorpe's regiment were stationed near Fort St. Andrew. As many of the soldiers were married, lots were assigned to them which they cultivated and im- proved. Near this work was the little village of Barrimacke of twenty-four families. Upon Ameha island, where the orange trees were grow- ing Avild in the woods, were stationed the Highlanders with their scout boats. They had a good plantation, upon which they raised corn enough for their subsist- ence, a little fort, and "a stud of horses and mares."^ "Nowhere," remarks Mr. Spalding,t "had mind, with the limited means under its control, more strongly evinced its power. And it will be seen hereafter, that it was to the great ability shown in the disposition of these works, that not Georgia only, but Carolina owed their preserva- tion ; for St. Simon's was destined soon to become the Thermopylae of the southern Anglo American provinces." Besides compassing the improvement of, and garrihouing his defensive works along the southern frontier with the men of his regiment, Oglethorpe kept in active service con- siderable bodies of Indians whose mission was to harrass the Spaniards in Florida, annoy their posts, and closely invest St. Augustine. So energetically did these faithful *See an Impartial Enquiry into the State and Utility of the Province of Georgia, kc, p. 53. London, 1743. Wright's Memoir of Oglethorpe. i>. 204. London. 1867. tCoUectioas of the Georgia Historical Soc-iety. vol. i, p. J.'iS. Savaninili. 1S40. 13 98 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. allies discharge the duty assigned thera, and so narrowly did they watch and thoroughly plague the garrison and inhabitants of St. Augustine, that they dared not venture any distance without the walls. Adjacent plantations re- mained uncultivated ; and, within the town, food, fuel, and the necessaries of life became so scarce that the Spanish government was compelled to support the population by stores sent from Havana. To the efficient aid of his In- dian allies was Oglethorpe on more than one occasion indebted for the consummation of important plans. It would not be an exaggeration to affirm that to their friend- ship, fidelity, and valor, was the Colony largely beholden not only for its security, but even for its preservation. "If we had no other evidence," writes Mr. Spalding, " of the great abilities of Oglethorpe but what is offered by the devotion of the Indian Tribes to him, and to his memory afterwards for fifty years, it is all-sufficient ; for it is only master minds that acquire this deep and lasting influence over other men." In his letter to the Duke of Newcastle, dated Frederica, May 12th, 1741, Oglethorpe advises the Home Government of a reinforcement of eight hundred men newly arrived at St. Augustine, and of a declared intention on the part of the Spanish authorities to invade the provinces of Georgia and Carolina so soon as the result of Admiral Vernon's expedition in the West Indies should have been ascer- tained. He makes urgent demand for men-of-war to guard the water approaches, for a train of artillery, arms, and ammunition, and for authority to recruit the two troops of Rangers to sixty men each, and the Highland company to one hundred, to enlist one hundred boatmen, and to purchase or build, and man two half-galleys. Alluding to FREDEEICA. 99 the expected advance of the Spaniards, the writer con- tinues : "If our men of war will not keep them from coming in by sea, and we have no succour, but decrease daily by different accidents, all we can do will be to die bravely in his Majesty's service. * '^ I have often desired assistance of the men-of-war, and continue to do so. I go on in fortifying this town, making magazines, and doing everything I can to defend the Province vigor- ously, and I hope my endeavors will be approved of by his Majesty, since the whole end of my life is to do the duty of a faithful subject and grateful servant. I have thirty Spanish prisoners in this place, and we continue so masters of Florida that the Spaniards have not been able to rebuild any one of the seven forts which we destroyed in the last expedition." It does not appear that the men-of-war and ordnance requested were ever furnished. With a little squadron composed of the Guard sloop, the sloop "Falcon," and Captain Davis' schooner "Norfolk" carrying a detachment of his regiment under command of Major Heron, General Oglethorpe on the 16th of August, 1741, bore down upon a large Spanish ship lying at anchor, with hostile intent, off the bar of Jekyll sound. A heavy storm intervening, the Spanish vessel put to sea and was lost to sight. Unwilling to dismiss his miniature fleet until lis had performed more substantial service, the Gen- eral boldly continued down the coast, attacked and put to flight a Spanish man-of-war, and the notorious privateer " Black-Sloop " commanded by Destrade, a French officer, challenged the vessels lying in the inner harbor of St. Au- gustine to come out and engage his small squadron, re- mained at anchor all night within sight of the castle, 100 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEOUGIA. cruised for some days off the Matanzas, and, after having alarmed the whole coast, returned in safety to Frederica. In the midst of these labors and anxieties incident upon his preparations to resist the threatened Spanish invasion, and at a time when harmony and content were most essen- tial to the well-being of the Colony, Oglethorpe was an- noyed by sundry complaints from evil-minded persons. Most of them were frivolous, and a few quite insulting in their character. The publication of two tracts, one enti- tled "An Impartial Enquiry into the State and Utilit}' of the Province of Georgia,"* and the other "A State of the Province of Georgia attested upon Oath in the Court of Savannah, November 10, 171:0,"t both presenting favor- able views of the Colony and disseminated in the interest of the Trust, irritated these malcontents and gave rise to several rejoinders, among Avhich, as particularly reflecting upon the conduct of the commander-in-chief and his ad- ministration of affairs, may be mentioned "A Brief Account of the Causes that have Retarded the Progress of the Colony of Georgia in America, attested upon Oath, being a Proper Contrast to 'A State of the Province of Georgia attested upon Oath,' and some other misrepresentations on the same subject." :j: The charge was openly made that some of the magistrates at Savannah and Frederica (the principal towns in Georgia) had wilfully injured the people by declaring " from the Bench that the Laws of England were no laws in Georgia," by causing "false im- prisonments," by " discharging Grand Juries while matters of Felony lay before them," by " intimidating Petit Juries," and, in short, "by sticking at nothing to oppress the London, 1741. t London, 1742. } London, 174.'j. FREDEKICA. 101 r, people." It was further alleged that there was no way of applying for redress to his Majesty. General Oglethorpe was accused of partiality and tyranny in his administra- tion. In support of these charges varioiis affidavits were obtained from parties claiming to be residents of Frederica, Darien, Savannah, Ebenezer, and Augusta, most of them, however, being sworn to and verified outside the limits of Georgia. Those who are curious with regard to the con- tents of these affidavits, so far as they reflect upon the conduct of the Frederica magistrates, are referred to the depositions of Samuel Perkins, John lioberson, and Samuel Davison.* A desire to sell forbidden articles, and to ply trades for which special permission had l)een granted to others, oppo- sition to the regulation which prohibited the owners of hogs and cattle from allowing them to run at large on the common and in the streets of Frederica, alleged misfeas- ance in the conduct of bailiffs and under-magistrates in the discharge of their duties, the unprofitableness of labor, overbearing acts committed by those in authority, and simi- lar matters formed the ])urthen of these sworn complaints. While they tended to distract the public mind and to annoy those upon Avhose shoulders rested the administra- tion of affairs, they fortunately failed in producing any serious impression either Avithin the Colony or in the mother country. We allude to the subject in its proper connection simply as a matter of history, and to show how ill-judged and ill-timed Avere these efforts of the malcon- tents, among whom Pat Tailfer, M. D., Hugli Anderson, M. A., and Da: Douglas should not be forgotten. *A Brief Account of the Causes that have retarded the Progress of the Colony of Georgia, &c.. Appendix, pp. 1-19. London, 1743. 102 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. The utter tlestnictioii of the provinces of Georgia aud South CaroUua was the avowed object of the Spaniards, who promised to extend no quarter to Enghsh or Indians taken with arms in their hands. The struggle was to be desperate in the extreme. To the urgent appHcations for assistance forwarded by General Oglethorpe, Lieutenant- Governor Bull turned a deaf ear ; and the Carolinians, in- stead of furnishing supplies and munitions of war, and marching to the south to meet the invader where the battle for the salvation of both Colonies was to be fought, re- mained at home, leaving the Georgians single-handed to breast the storm." The Gentleman's Magazine!- contains the following esti- mate of the Spanish forces under the command of Don Manuel de Monteano, Governor of Augustine and Com- mander-in-Chief of the expedition, and Major General An- tonio de Kodondo, Engineer General, participating in the attack upon St. Simons island : " 2 Colonels with Brevits of Brigadiers. " One Regiment of Dragoons, dismounted, with their Saddles and Bridles. "The Regiment call'd The Battalion of the Havioinah. " 10 Companies of 50 each, draughted off from several Regiments of Havannalt. " One Regiment of the Havannah Militia, consisting of 10 Companies of 100 Men each. " One RegiDjent of Negroes, regularly ofticer'd by Ne- groes. " One ditto of Mulattas, and one Company of 100 Migue- lets. * See Letter of General O^jletliorpe, dated Frederiea, June Mth. 1742. WriRlit's Memoir of Oglethorpe, p. "298. London, 1867. t For 1742. Vol. xn, p. G!4. FREDERICA. 103 " One Company of the Train with proper Artillery. " Augustine Forces consisting of about 800 Men. " Ninety Indians. " And 15 Negroes Avho ran away from Sonfli Carolina.'' From the various accounts of this memorable struggl we select that prepared by Oglethorpe himself, written on the spot, with the scars of battle fresh around him, and the smoke of the conflict scarce hfted from the low-lying shores and dense woods of St. Simons island. The com- manding eye that saw, the stern lips which answered back the proud defiance, and the strong arm which, under Provi- dence, pointed the way to victory, are surely best able to unfold the heroic tale. We present the report as it came from his pen :* "Frederica in Georgia, 30th July, 1742. " The Spanish Invasion which has a long time threatened the Colony. Carolina, and all North America has at last fallen upon us and God hath been our deliverance. General Horcasilas, Governour of the Havannah, ordered those Troops who had been employed against General Went- worth to embark with Ai-tillery and everything necessary upon a secret expedition. They sailed with a great fleet :t amongst them were two half Galleys carrying 120 men each & an 18 pound Gun. They drew but five feet water which satisfied me they were for this place. By good great Fortune one of the half Galleys w'as wrecked coming out. I The Fleet sailed for St. Augustine in Florida. Capt. *See Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. lii, p. i:W ft seq. Savannah, 1873. t Consisting of fiftj'-six sail, and between seven and ei-^ht thousand men. tThis was a large Settee having one hundred anting to enter Amelia Sound, at nhu:, instead of fourtten. frederica. 105 drove out by the Cannon of the Fort and Schooner they came m at Cumberland Sound. I sent over Capt. Horton to land tlie Indians and Troops on Cumberland. I fol- lowed myself and was attacked in the Sound, but with two Boats fought my way through. Lieut. Tolso)i, who was to have supported me with the third and strongest boat, quitted me in the fight and run into a River where he hid himself till next day when he returned to St. Simons with an account that I was lost but soon after found. I was arrived there before him, for which misbehaviour I put him in arrest and ordered him to be tryed. The Enemy in this action suffered so much* that the day after the}- ran out to sea and returned for St. Augustine and did not join their great Fleet till after their Grenadiers were beat by Land. " I drew the Garrison from St. Andrews, reinforced Fort William, and returned to St. Simons with the Schooner. " Another Spanish Fleet appeared the 28th oflf the Barr : by God's blessing upon several measures taken I delayed their coming in till the 5th of July. I raised another Troop of Rangers, which with the other were of great service. " I took Captain Thomson's sliipt into the service for defence of the Harbour. I imbargoe'd all the Vessells, taking their men for the service, and gave large Gifts and promises to the Indians so that every day we in- creased in numbers. I gave large rewards to men who distinguished themselves upon any service, freed the ser- vants,:): brought down the Highland Company, and Com- *In endeavoriug to reach St. Augustine lor repairs, four of their vesBels foundered at sea. tThis was the merchant ship " Succexx," mounting twenty guns. The General .lent one hundred soldiers on board of her and filled her with necessary niilitiiry stores. Thus she became, in the language of one of her crew, "ready for twice the number ot Spaniards." tFor their passage and outfit, they had agreed to labor for the Trust for a given period. U 106 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. pany of Boatmen, filled up as far as we had guns. All the vessels being thus prepared* on the 5th of July with a leading Gale and Spring Tide 36 sail of Spanish ves- sels run into the Harbour in line of Battle. " We cannonaded them very hotly from the Shipping and Batterys. They twice attempted to board Capt. Thom- son t but were repulsed. They also attempted to board the Schooner, but were repulsed by Capt. Dunbar with a Detachment of the Regiment on board. " I was with the Indians, Rangers, and Batterys, and some- times on board the ships, and left Major Heron with the Regiment. It being impossible for me to do my duty as General and be constantly with the Regiment, therefore it was absolutely necessary for His Majesty's service to have a Lieut. Colonel present, which I was fuUy convinced of by this day's experience. I therefore appointed Major Heron to be Lieut. Colonel, and hope that your Grace will move His Majesty to be pleased to approve the same. " The Spaniards after an obstinate Engagement of four hours, in which they lost abundance of men, passed all our Batterys and Shipping and got out of shot of them towards Frederica. Our Guard Sloop was disabled and sunk : one of our Batterys bloAvn up, and also some of our Men on This little fleet con.sisted of the "Success," Captain Thompson, of twenty guns and one hundreil and ten men, with sprin^js upon her cables, General Oslethorpo's sc^hooner of fourteen guns and eighty men, and the sloop "St. Philip," of fourteen guns and eighty men. Eight York sloops were close in shore, with oue man on board each of them, whose instructions were, in case the enemy were about to capture, to sink or run tliem on shore. Gentleman's Magazine, vol. xn, p. 495. tThis attempt was made by the Spanish Commodore witli a ship of twenty-two guns, and a settee with an eighteen pounder and two nine pounders in her bow. So stout was the resistance offered by Captain Thompson with the great guns of his ship, by Captain Carr and his company of Marines, and by Lieutenant Wall and Ensign Otterbridge in charge of a detachment from Oglethorpe's Regiment, that the Spaniards were obliged to retire with loss. A snow of sixteen guns at the same time attemjiti'd to board the Guard Schooner, but was repulsed by Captain Dunbar. See Harris' Complete Collection of Voyages and Travels, vol. ii, p. lUl. London, 1748. FREDERICA. 107 board Capt. Thomson, upon which I called a Council of War at the head of the Eegiment where it was unanimously resolved to march to Frederica to get there before the Enemy and defend that Place. To destroy all the Provi- sions, Vessels, Artillery, &c., at St. Simon's, that they might not fall into the Enemy's hands. "This was accordingly executed, having first drawn all the Men on shoar which before had defended the shipping. I myself staid till the last, and the wind coming fortunately about I got Capt. Thompson's Ship, our Guard Schooner, and our Prize Sloop to sea and sent them to Charles Town. This I did in the face and spite of thirty-six sail of the Enemy : as for the rest of the Vessells, I could not save them, therefore was obliged to destroy them. "I must recomend to His Majesty the Merchants who are sufferers thereby, since their loss was in great measure the preserving the Province. "We arrived at Frederica, and the Enemy landed at St. Simon's.* " On the 7th a party of their's marched toward the Town : our Rangers discovered them and brought an accoiint of then- march, on which I advanced with a party of Indians, Rangers, and the Highland Company, ordering the Regiment to follow, being resolved to engage them in the Defiles of the Woods before the}' could get out and form in the open Grounds. I charged them at the head of our Indians, * From the statemeut made by Ave Si)auish prisoners captured aud brought in by the Creek Indians, it appeared -that Don Manuel de Monteano, Governor of St. Augustine, was the Commander in Chief of the Expedition, and that Major (ieueral Antonio de liedondo was Chief Engineer. He and two Brigadier Generals aoeonipanie(l the forces wliirli came from Cuba. The aggregate strength of the expedition was about five thousand uien, of whom four thousand three hundred were lamled on St. Simons. Heavy scouting parties were sent out in every direction by General Oglethorpe to ob- serve the movements of the enemy and retard any advance in tlie direction of Frederica, the defences of which were being strengthened as rapidly aud as thoroughly as time and the forces at command would permit. 108 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. Highland Men and Rangers, and God was pleased to give us such success that we entirely routed the first party, took one Captain prisoner, and killed another, and pursued them two miles to an open Meadow or Savannah, upon the edge of which I posted three Platoons of the Regiment and the Company of Highland foot so as to be covered by the woods from the Enemy who were obliged to pass thro' the Meadow under our fire/'" This disposition was very fortunate.f Capt. Antonio Barba and two other Captains with 100 Grenadiers and 200 foot, besides Indians and Negroes, advanced from the Spanish Camp into the Savannah with Huzzah's and fired with great spirit, but not seeing our men by reason of the woods, none of their shot took place, but ours did4 * In this charge Oglethorpe cn<;oiiutered one hundred and twenty Spanish Pioneers, forty Yamassee Indians, and an equal number of negroes. So violent was the onslaught that nearly the whole party was either captured or slain. With his own hands the Gen- eral captured two prisoners. Captain Sanchio commanding this advance, was taken prisoner by Lieut. Scroggs of the Rangers, and Toonahowi. although shot through the right arm by a Spanish officer, drew his pistol with his left and killed his antagonist on the spot. See Wright's Memoir of Oglethorpe, p. 305. McCall'a History of Georgia, vol. i, p. 181. t After locating his troops, Oglethorpe hastened back to Frederica to prepare the Ran- gers and the Marine Company for action at a moments warning. J Captain McCall furnishes the following account of this atfair : Caiitain Noble Jones, with a detachment of regulars and Indians, being out on a scout- ing party, fell in with a small detachment in the enemy's advance, who were surprised and made prisoners, not deeming themselves so far in front of the main army. From these prisoners information was received that the whole Spanish army was advancing : this waa immediately communicated by an Indian runner to the General who detached Captain Dunbar with a company of gi-enadiers to join the regulars and Indians, with orders to harrass the enemy on their advance. These detachments having formed a junction, observed at a distance the Spanish army on the march : and taking a favorable position near a marsh, formed an ambuscade. The enemy fortunately halted within a hundred paces of this position, stacked their arms, made fires, and were preparing their kettles for cooking, when a horse observed some of the party in ambuscade, and, fright- ened at the uniform of the regulars, began to snort, and gave the alarm. The Spaniards ran to their arms, but were shot down in great numbers by Oglethorpe's detatchment, who continued invisilde to the enemy ; and after repeated attempts to furm, in which some of their principal officers fell, they tied with the utmost precipitation, leaving their camp equipage on the field, and never halted until they got under cover of the guns of their battery and ships. General Oglethorpe had detaidied Ma^jor Hortou with a reinforcement, who arrived only in time to join in the pursuit. So comiJlete was the surprise of the enemy. FREDERICA. 109 " Some Platoons of ours iu the heat of the fight, tlie air being darkened with the smoak, and a shower of rain falling, retired in disorder. "I hearing the firing, rode towards it, and at near two miles from the place of Action, met a great many men in disorder who told me that ours were routed and Lieiit. Sutherland killed. I ordered them to halt and march back against the Enemy, which orders Capt. Demere and Ensign Gibbon obeyed, but another Officer did not, but made the best of his way to Town. As I heard the fire continue I concluded our Men could not be quite beaten, and that my immediate assistance might preserve them : therefore spiu-red on and arrived just as the fire was done. I found the Spaniards intirely routed by one Platoon of the Kegi- ment, under the Comand of Lieut. Sutherland, and the Highland Company under the Comand of Lieut. Charles MacKay. " An Officer whom the Prisoners said was Capt. Don Antonio Barba* was taken Prisoner, but desperately wounded, and two others were prisoners, and a great many dead upon the spot. Lieut. Sutherland, Lieut. Charles MacKay and Sergt. Stuart having distinguished themselves upon this occasion, I appointed Lieut. Sutherland Brigade Major, and Sergt. Stuart second Ensign. that many fled without their arms ; others in a rapiti retreat rlischarfiecl their muskets over their shouUiers at their iiiirsiiers : and many were killed by the loaded arms which were left on the ground: generally the Spaniards tired so niueh at random that the trees were pruned by the balls from their nmskets : their loss iu killed, wounded and prison- ers, was estimated at five hundred. The loss in Oglethorpe's detachment was very in- eonsiderable. From the signal victory obtained over the enemy, and the great slaughter amongst the Sjianish trooi>s, the scene of action just described has ever since been de- nominated the bloody marsliA + History of Georgia, vol. i, pp, 18.5, 187. Savannah, 1811. Compare Spalding's Life of Oglethorpe, Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. I, pp. 281-284. Savannah, 1840. *The Spaniards regarded the loss of this officer as more severe than that of a thousand men. 110 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. "Capt. Demere and Ensign Gibbon being arrived with the men they had rallied, Lieut. Cadogan with an advanced party of the Regiment, and soon after the whole Kegiment, Indians, and Rangers, I marched down to a causeway over a marsh very near the Spanish Camp over which all were obHged to pass, and thereby stopt those who had been dispersed in the tight in the Savannah from getting to the Spanish Camp."' Having passed the night there, the Indian scouts in the morning advanced t(j the Spanish Camp and discovered they were all retired into the ruins of the Fort and were making lutrenchments under shelter of the cannon of the ships. That they guessed them to be above 4,000 men. I thought it imprudent to attack them defended by Cannon with so small a number but marched back to Frederic at to refresh the soldiers, and sent out Part}s of Indians and Rangeis to harrass the Enemy. I also ordered into arrest the officers who commanded the Platoons that retired. " I appointed a General Staff : Lieut. Hugh MacKay and Lieut. Maxwell xVids de Camp, and Lieut. Sutherland Brigade Major. :j; On ye lltli of Jul}- the Great Galley and two little ones came up the river towards the Town. We fired at them with the few Guns, so warmly that they retired, and I followed them with our Boats till they got under the cannon of their ships which lay in the sound. " Having intelligence from the Spanish Camp that they had lost 4 Captains and upwards of 200 men in the last Action, besides a great many killed in the sea-fight, and * In those two engagements the eueniy had su.staiueil a loss of two Captains, one Lieu- tenant, two Sergeants, two Drumniers, and one hundred and sixty privates killed : and one Captain and nineteen men eaptured. 1 This was on the 8th of July. t During the !)th and 10th of July all hands were employed on the works at Frederica, exeept the scouts and Indians; the latter brought in some scalps and prisoners. FREDERIC A. Ill several killed iu the night by the Indians even within or near the camp, and that they had held a Council of War in which there were great divisions, insomuch that the Forces of Cuba separated from those of Augustine and the Italick Regiment of Dragoons separated from them both at a distance from the rest near the woods, and that there was a general Terror amongst them, upon Avhich I was resolved to beat up their Quarters in the night and marching down with the largest body of men I could make, I halted within a mile and a half of their camp to form, intending to leave the Troops there till I had well reconitred the Enemy's disposition. "A French Man who without my knowledge was come down amongst the volunteers fired his Gun and deserted. Our Indians in vain persued and could not take him. Upon this, concluding we were discovered, I divided the Drums in different parts and beat the Grenadiers march for about half an hour, then ceased, and we marched back with silence. "The next day* I prevailed with a Prisoner, and gave him a sum of money, to carry a letter privately and de- liver it to that French Man who had deserted. This Letter was wrote in French as if fi'om a friend of his, teDing him he had received the money that he should strive to make the Spaniards beUeve the English were weak. That he should undertake to pilot up their Boats and Galleys and then bring them imder the Woods where he knew the Hidden Batterys were ; that if he could bring that about, he should have double the reward he had already received. That the French Deserters should have all that had been promised to them. The Spanish Prisoner got into their *July l:nu. 112 THE DEAD TOWNS OP GEORGIA. Camp and was immediately carried before their General Don Manuel de Montiano. He was asked how he escaped and whither he had any letters, but denying his having any, was strictly searched and the letter found, and he upon being pardoned, confessed that he had received money to deliver it to the Frenchman, for the letter was not directed. The Frenchman denied his knowing anything of the con- tents of the Letter or having received any Money or Cor- respondence with me, notwithstanding which, a Council of "War was held and the)' deemed the French Man to be a double sp3', but General Montiano would not suffer him to be executed, having been imployed by him : however, they imbarqued all their Troops,* and halted under Jekyl, they also confined all the French on board and imbarked with such precipitation that they left behind them Cannon, &c., and those dead of their wounds, unburied. The Cuba * St. Simon's town was destroyed by the Spaniards prior to their evacuation of the island. To a writer in the Loudon Magazine for 1745, t who made his observations in the early part of 1743. are we indebted for the following notice of this place : " At the South Point of this Island of St. Siinon, are the Kuius of the Town of St. Simons destroyed by the Spaniards at their Invasion. By the remaining Vestiges it must have been a very uniform Place ; and the Situation is quite charuiiug, tho' it now makes one melancholy to see such a Desolation in so new a Country. The onlj- Building they left standing was one House which they had consecrated for a Chapel. How different the Proceedings of the more generous English even in their Parts who never leave behind them such direful Remembrances ; but here religious Fury goes Hand in Hand with Conquest, resolv'd to ruin whom they can't convert. The Fort has some Hemains still, and seems to have been no extraordinary affair : tho' no Place was ever better defended, and the Enemies seem, by their Works and Intrcnchments to have thought themselves sure of keeping the Town, but found themselves wofully mistaken. Down the Beach to the westward is a Look-out of Tappy-work which is a very good Mark for standing over tlie Bar into the Harbour ; and on the opposite Point of Jekyl Island is a very remarkable Hammock of Trees much taken notice of by Seamen on the same .Vccount. Somewliat lower and more Northerly is the Plantation call'd Gascoign's which underwent the same Fate with St. Simons. An Officer's Command is station'd at South Point, who disposes his Gentries so as to discover Vessels some Leagues at Sea, and ujion any such Discovery an Alarm-Gun is fir'd, and an Horseman sent up with Notice to the Head-Quarters which is nine miles from this Place. If they appear to make for the Harbour, a perpendicular mounted Gun is fir'd as a Signal, which, by the Ascent of the Smoke is a Direction to a Ship a long AVay in the Offing, and Is a most lucky Contrivance. The road from hence to Frederica is cut through the Woods, and through the Marshes rais'd upon a Causeway." t Page 540. FKEDERlCA. 113 Squadron stood out to sea to the number of 20 sail : Gen- eral Montiano with the Augustine Squadron returned to Cumberland Sound, having burnt Captain Horton's houses, &c., on Jekjdl. I, with our boats, followed him. I dis- covered a great many sail under Fort St. Andrew, of which eight appeared to me plain, but being too strong for me to attack, I sent the Scout Boats back. " I went" with my own Cutter and landed a man on Cum- berland who carried a letter fi'om me to Lieut. Stuart at Fort William with orders to defend himself to the last extremity. " Having discovered our Boats & believing we had landed Indians in the night they set sail with great haste, in so much that not having time to imbarque, they killed 40 horses which they had taken there, and burnt the houses. The Galleys and small Craft to the number of fifteen went thro' the inland Water Passages. They attempted to land near Fort William, but were repulsed by the Rangers ; they then attacked it with Cannon and small Arms from the water for three Hours, but the place was so bravely defended by Lieut. Alexander Stuart that they were re- pulsed and ran out to sea where twelve other sail of Spanish vessells had lain at anchor without the Barr during the Attack without stirring, but the Galleys being chased out, they hoisted all the sails they could and stood to the Southward. I followed them with the Boats to Fort Wil- liam, and from thence sent out the Rangers and some Boats who followed them to Saint Johns, but they went oft" rowing and sailing to St. Augustine. " After the news of their defeat in the Grenadier Sa- vannah arrived at Charles Town, the Men of War and a number of Carolina People raised in a hurry set out *Jul.v 10th. 15 114 THE DEAD TOWNS OP GEORGIA. and came oflf this Barr after the Spaniards had been chased quite out of this Colony, where they dismissed the Carolina vessels, and Capt. Hardy promised in his Let- ters to cruise oft' St. Auf^istine. "We have returned thanks to God for our deliverance, have set all the hands I possibly could to work upon the Fortifications, and have sent to the Northward to raise men ready to form another Battalion against His Majes- ty's Orders shall arrive for that purpose. I have retained Thompson's ship, have sent for Cannon Sliott, &c., for Provi- sions and all kinds of stores since I expect the Enemy, who (tho' greatly terrified) lost but few men in comparison of their great numbers, as soon as they have recovered their fright will attack us with more caution and better discipline. " I hope His Majesty will approve the measures I have taken, and I must entreat Your Grace to lay my humble request before His Majesty that he would be graciously pleased to order Troops, Artillery and other Necessarys sufficient for the defence of this Frontier and the neigh- boring Provinces, or give such direction as His Majesty shall think proj)er, and I do not doubt but with a moderate support not onl}' to be able to defend these Provinces, but also to dislodge the Enemy from St. Augustine if I have but the same numbers the}' had in this expedition."* *For fvirther account of this niemorable defence, see Harris' Complete Collection of Voyages and Travels, vol. ii, i>p. 'MO, :t42. London, 1748. McCall's History of Georgia, vol. i., pp. 170, 190. Savannah, 1811. Hewitt's Historii'al .\ccoiiut of the Itise and Progress of the Colonies of Sonth Carolina and Georgia, vol. ii., jip. 114, ll!l. London, 177!). Stevens' History of Georgia, vol. i, pp. 180, 196. New York, 1847. Harris' Memorials of Oglethori5e, pp. '250, '268. Boston, 1840. Wright's Memoir of Oglethorpe, pp. 299, 317. London, 1867. Si)alding's Life of Oglethorpe, Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. i, pp. 275. 284. Savannah, 1840. Ramsay's History of South Carolina, vol. i, pp. 144, 147. Chaileston, 1809. London Magazine, vol. xi, i)p. 515,516, 568. Gentleman's Magazine for 1742, vol. xii, pp. 494, 496, 550, 561, 693, 694. Gentleman's Magazine for 1743, vol. .xiii, pp. 84, 638, 639. FREDERICA. 115 That a small force of between six aiul sevisn liundred men, assisted by a few weak vessels, should have put to flight an army of nearly five thousand Spanish troops, supported by a powerful fleet, and amply equipped for the expedition, seems almost incapable of explanation.'^' General Oglethorpe's bravery and dash, the timidity of the invaders, covipled with the dissentions which arose in their ranks, and the apprehensions caused by the French letter, furnish the only plausible explanation of the victory. Whitefield's commentary was : " The deliverance of Georgia from the Spaniards is such as cannot be paralleled but by some instances out of the Old Testament." The defeat of so formidable an expedition by such a handful of men was a matter of astonishment to all. Had Don Manuel de Mouteano pushed his forces vigorously forward, the stoutest resistance ofl'ered along his short line of march and from the walls of the town would have been ineffectual for the salvation of Frederica. Against the contingency of an evacuation of this strong-hold Oglethorpe had provided, *The following estimate wasiiiaclu of the foi-ces eugaged : Spanish Troops. One regimeut of dismounted Dragoons -tW Havanna Kegiment -""'^O Havanna Militia 1.000 Regiment of Artillery -JOO Florida Militia -tOO Battalion of Mulattoes 300 Black Regiment "*" Indians '-^0 Marines ^00 Seamen I'OOO Total ^.090 General Oglethorpe's Command. His Regiment *"^ Company of Rangers "'O Highlanders '*" Armed Militia ^" Indians *^ Total ^'^ See McCall's History of Georgia, vol i, p. I'.IO. Savannah, IHU. 116 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. as best he could, by a concentration of boats in which to transport the garrison to Darien* by way of the cut previously made through General's island. This necessity, however, was fortunately never laid upon him. If the naval forces at Charleston had responded to his requisitions, a considerable portion of the Spanish fleet might have been captured. Oglethorpe's success in his military opera- tions may be explained by the fact that he constantly acted on the offensive. He was never content to grant any peace to an enemy who was within striking distance. The temerity and persistency of his attacks inspired his followers, and impressed his antagonist with the belief that the arm delivering the blow was stronger than it really was. The memory of this defense of St. Simons island and the southern frontier is one of the proudest in the annals of Georgia. Thus was the existence of the Col- ony perpetuated. Thus was hurled back in wrath and mortification a powerful arm}" of invasion whose avowed object was to show no quarter, f but crush out of ex- * Of the condition of this town in 17i3 we And the following aocouut in the London Mafjazine for 1745 :t "Our first Stage we made A'ew Invernttss, or the Darien, on the Conti- nent near 20 miles from Freilerica ; which is a Settlement of Highlanders living and dress- ing in their own Country Fashion, vei-y hai)X]ily and contentedly. There is an Indepen- dent Company of Foot of them, consisting of 70 men who have been of good service. The Town is regularly laid ont. and huilt of Wood mostly, divided into Streets and Squares ; before the Town is the Parade, and a Fort not j'et finish'd. It is situated upon a very high Bluff, or Point of Land, from whence, with a few canuon, they can scour the River, otherwise it is surrounded by Pine-barrens, and Woods, and there is a Rout by Land to Savannah and Fort Argyle, which is statedly reconnoitred by a Ti'oop of Highland Rangers who do duty here. The Company and Troop, armed in the Highland manner, make an extreme good ai)pearance under arms. The whole Settlement may be said to be a brave and industrious People ; but were more numerous, planted more, and raised more cattle before the Invasion, with which they drove a good Trade to the Southward : but Things seem daily mending with them. They are forc'd to keep a very good Guard in this Place, it lies so open to the Insults of the Frnicli and Spanish Indians, who once or twice have shewn Straglers some very bloody Tricks." t Page 551. t Samuel Cloake, who was a prisoner on board the " Pretty Nancy " taken by the Spaniards from the English, and fitted out for the invasion of Georgia, made oath that during the time they lay off the bar the Spaniards often " whetted their swords and held their knives to this deponent's and other English prisoners' throats, saying they would cut the throats of those they should take at Georgia." Harris' Complete Collection of Voyages and Travels, pp. 342, 343. London, 1748. FREDERICA. 117 isteuce the Euglisli colonies. Had success attended the demonstration against Frederica, the Enemy would have advanced upon the more northern strong-holds. Appreciating this, and deeply sensible of their great obligations to General Oglethorpe for the deliver- ance vouchsafed at his hands, the Governors of New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland. Virginia, and North Carolina, ''" addressed special letters to him " thank- ing him for the invaluable services he had rendered to the British- American Provinces ; congratulating him upon his success and the great renown he had acquired ; and expressing their gratitude to the Supreme Governor of Nations for placing the destiny of the southern colo- nies under the direction of a General so well (piahfied for the important trust." Upon the disappearance of the Spanish forces Ogle- thorpe at once bent his energies to strengthening the fortifications at Frederica and repairing the damages which had been sustained by the southern forts. For a long time he seems to have counted upon a return of the expedition, and could not bring his mind to believe that the enterprise upon which so much preparati(ni and money had been expended would be thus hastily and almost causelessly al)andoned. Within a few months the works upon St. Simons, Jekyll, and Cumberland islands were stronger than ever. What those additional defensive works at Frederica were, we shall shortly see. Not content with having repulsed the Spaniards in their effort to crush the colony, General Oglethorpe was soon again engaged in " carrying the war into Africa." * The governor of South Carolina did not unite in those congratulations and thanks ; but the people of Port Royal did, much to his chagrin. 118 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. Finding the enemy so strong in St. Augustine tliat they defeated all the parties of Indians he sent against them, ascertaining that a large detachment was march- ing towards the river St. Mattheo, and concluding that this was a movement to extend their quarters so as to be prepared for the proper location and accommo- dation of reinforcements expected from Havana in the spring, taking with him a considerable body of Creek warriors, a detachment from the Highland company of Rangers, and a portion of his regiment, Oglethorpe landed by night in Florida in March, 1743, and, mov- ing rapidly, drove the enemy, Avith loss, Avithin the lines of St. Augustine. Having disposed his command in ambush, the General, with a small party, advanced within sight of' the town, intending to skirmish and draw the garrison out. The enemy declined to leave their fortifications ;-' and the English, being too weak to attack, and having compelled the Spaniards to abandon their advanced posts in Florida, returned, having per- formed the extraordinary march of ninety-six miles in four days.t This was the last expedition led by the General against the Spaniards. | Still persuaded that the attack upon Frederica would be renewed at an early day, he continued to place the * In the language of General Oglethorpe, " Uiey were so medc there v.-as no proviiking them." t See General Oglethorpe's letters of the 12th and '21st of March, 1743. Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. ni, pp. 149, 151. Savannah, 1873. London Magazine for 1743, vol. xii, pp. 35(), 357. London Gazette, July 9, 1743. t This demonstration had the eftect of restraining the Enemy within the lines of St. Augustine; and the active cruizing of the English Guard Schooner and Scout Boats held in check the privateers which were in the habit of annoying the navigation to the simth- ward. " In tine," writes a Cliarles-Town merchant to his corresijondcnt in London, un- der date August 10, 1743, " Gcorr/ia is a Gibraltar to this Province and AorOt America, how- ever insignificant some People may make it." London Magazine for 1743, vol. xu, p. 5ti7. FREDERIC A. 119 frontier in the best possible state of defense. Until he left Georgia on the 23d of July, 1743, never again to return, he resided at his cottage on St. Simons island. Of all the places planted and nurtured by him, none so warmly enlisted his energies and engaged his constant solicitude as the fortified town at the mouth of the Alatamaha. Upon the General's departure, William Stephens was left as Deputy General of the Colony, and Major Horton, as military commander at Frederica. With the civil matters of the province Major Horton had no concern except where his assistance, as commander in chief of the military, was occasionally invoked to enforce the measures of the president and council. In such instances he acted with calmness and humanity, and se- cured the respect and esteem of the better class of the colonists. On the 22nd of March, 1743, the magazine at Fred- erica was blown up, to the general alarm and regi'et of the inhabitants. Although it contained, at the time, three thousand bombs, so well bedded were they, but little damage occurred. A vagabond Irishman was sus- pected of having fired the magazine.* We have two descriptions of Frederica in 1743, the period of its greatest prosperity and importance, which we make no apology for transcribing. The first is from the lips of a captain conversant ^\ith the appearance and condition of the town. Captain John Mac Clellan, who had left Georgia on the 31st of January, 1743, on his arrival in England * See McCall's Goorgia, vol. i, p. 203. Savannah, ISll. Gentleman's Magazine lor 1744, vol. xiv, p. 303. London Magazine lor 1744, vol. xui, p. 350. 120 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA, reported tlie colonists busily engaged in placing them- selves in the best posture of defense, in anticipation of a second attack from the Si)aniards ; that Fort William had been fortified anew with brick work, and that " great numbers of Men were employ'd in compleating the Fortifications at Frederica, the Walls whereof are judged strong enough to be Proof against Eighteen- Pound Shot ;" that two towers, one at each corner of the town walls, capable of holding one hundred men each, and designed to protect the flanks b}- means of small arms, had been erected ; that the men were " full of spirits and unanimous to make a vigorous Defence to the last Drop of Blood ;" that General Oglethorpe had been rein- forced by two hundred men from Virginia, raised by Major Heron, many of whom were disciplined soldiers from Colonel Gouge's late regiment, and that tliirty horsemen were on their way to Georgia to "recruit the Rangers."* The second is from the pen of an intelligent traveler, who made his observations early in 1743. It reads as follow^s : " Frederica, on the Island of St. Simon, the chief Town in the Southernmost Part of the Colony of Georgia, is nearly in Lat: 31 15' North. It stands on an Eminence, if consider' d with regard to the Marshes before it, upon a Branch of the famous River Alatamaha, which washes the West side of this agreeable little Island, and, after several Windings, disembogues itself into the Sea at Jekyl Sound. It forms a kind of a Bay before the Town, and is navigable for Vessels of the largest Burden, which may lie along the wharf in a secure and safe Harbour ; and may, upon Occasion, haul up to careen and refit, the Bot- Londou Magazine for 1743, vol. xu, i). 305. f'REDERICA. 121 torn beiug a soft oozy Clay, intermix'd with small Sand aud Shells. The Town is defended by a pretty strong Fort of Tappy,* which has several 18 Pounders mounted on a Ravelin in its Front, and commands the River liotli upwards and downwards ; and is surrounded by a quad- rangular Rampart, with 4 Bastions, of Earth, well stock- aded and turfed, and a palisadoed Ditch which include also the King's Storehouses, (in which are kept the Arsenal, the Court of Justice, and Chapel) two large and spacious Buildings of Brick and Timber ; On the Rampart are mounted a considerable Quantity of Ordnance of several sizes. The Town is surrounded by a Rampart, with Flank- ers, of the same Thickness with that round the Fort, in Form of a Pentagon, and a dry Ditch ; and since the famous attempt of the Spaniards in July 1742,t at the N. E. and S. E. Angles are erected two strong cover'd pentagonal Bastions, capable of containing 100 men each, to scour the Flanks with Small Arms, and defended by a Number of Cannon ; At their Tops are Look-outs which command the View of the Country and the River for many miles : The Roofs are shingled,| but so eontriv'd as to be easily clear'd away, if incommodious in the De- fense of the Towers. The whole Circumference of the Town is about a Mile and a Half, including, within the Fortifications, the Camp for General Oi/h'thorpes Regiment, at the North Side of the Town ; the Parades on the West, and a small Wood to the South, which is left for Conve- * A mixture of lime made of Oyati>r-sliells. with Sanil, Small Shells, &e., which, when hardea'd, is as firm as Stone. I have oliserv'd ijrodigious Quantities of Salt Petre to issue from Walls of this Cement. tSee Lond: Mag; 17-f2, p. 4(il, 515. 5ir., oCT. t Shingles are split out of many Sorts of Wood, in the shape of Tiles, whieh. when they have been some Time expos'd to the Weather, appear of the Colour of Slate, and have a very pretty Look ; the Houses in America are mostly Shingled. 16 122 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. niency of Fuel and Pasture, and is an excellent Blind to the Enemy in case of an Attack ; in it is a small Magazine of Powder. The Town has two Gates, call'd the Land- port, and the Water-port : next to the latter of which is the Guard-house, and underneath it the Prison for Malefac- tors, which is an handsome Building of Brick. At the North End are the Barracks, which is an extremely well contriv'd Building in Form of a Square, of Tappy work, in which, at present, are kept the Hospital, and Spa.nifi/i Prisoners of War : Near this was situated the Bomb Maga- zine which was blown up on March 22, 1744," with so surprizingly little Damage.f " The town is situated in a large Indian Field. . To the East it has a very extensive Savannah (wherein is the Burial Place) thro' which is cut a Road to the other Side of the Island, which is bounded by Woods, save here and there some opening Glades into the Neighboring Savannah's and Marshes, which much elu- cidate the Pleasure of looking. Down this Road are several very commodious Plantations, particularly the very agreeable one of Capt. Deniern, and that of Mr. Hawkins. Pre-eminently appears Mr. Oylcf/iorpcs Settle- ment, which, at Distance, looks like a neat Country Village, where the consequences of all the various In- dustries of an European Farm are seen. The Master of it has shewn Avliat Application and unbated DiH- gence may effect in this Country. At the Extremity of the Road is a small Village, call'd the German Vil- lage, inhabited by several Families of Saltzhurghers, who plant and fish for their Subsistence. On the River Side * S<'c Loncl. Mat;: 1T44. p. 3r>il. tl have been told that in this Explosion near 3,000 Bombs biirst, which, had they not been well bedded, would have done much Mischief. FREDERICA. 123 one lias the Prospect of a lar8 of Mu>:lccttoK and other Vennin. The Season I was there, they had Oranges enough of their own Growth for Home Consumption. 124 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. these braA'e Fellows live Avitli the most laudable (Econ- oni}- ; and tho' most of them when off Duty, practise some Trade or Employment, they make as fine an Appearance iipon the Parade, as any Regiment in the King's Service and their exact Discipline does a great deal of Honour to their Officers ; They have a Market every Day ; The Inhabitants of the Town may be divided into Officers, Merchants, Store-Keepers, Ai'tisans, and People in the Provincial Service ; and there are often, also, many So- journers fi'om the neighbouring Settlements, and fi-om New YorJi, Philadelphia, and Carolina, on account of Trade, The Civil Government does not seem yet to be quite rightly settled by the Trustees, but is, at present, administered by three Magistrates, or Justices, assisted b}" a Recorder, Con- stables, and Ty thing Men. The Military is regulated as in all Garrison-Towns in the British Dominions. In short, the whole Town, and Country adjacent, are quite rurally charming, and the Improvements everywhere around are Footsteps of the greatest Skill and Industry imaginable, considering its late Settlement, and the Rubs it has so often met with ; and as it seems so necessar}^ for the Barrier of our Colonies, I am m Hopes of, one Time, seeing it taken more Notice of than it is at present."* For the ensuing few years, and during the retention of Oglethorpe's regiment on St. Simons island, but little change occurred in the condition of Frederica. It retained its importance as a military post, and was regarded as the safe guard of the Province against Spanish invasion. The expectations, if indeed any were seriously entertained, *Thi8 was written in the beginning of 1743. See London Magazine for 1745, vol. xiv, pp. 395, 396. Compare notice in " The North-American and the West-Indian Gazetteer." London, 1778. FREDERICA. 1 25 of elevating tliis town into commercial importance, were practically abandoned previous to the withdrawal of the troops. In fact, even before the existing difficulties with Spain were formally accommodated by treaty, and it became manifest that there would in all likelihood occur no farther serious demonstrations along the southern frontier, the population of Frederica began to decrease. The home authorities, however, were loth to acknowl- edge its manifest tendency to decadence, and for some time, by occasional reports and notices, endeavored to assure the public of the continued prosperity of a town which had attracted such special attention in connection with the progress and perils of the Colony of Georgia. An article having appeared in the " Daily Gazetteer " giving "a most scandalous and untrue account of the present state of the Colony of Georgia, particularly levelled at the Southern Part thereof (which is the Frontier against the French and Spaniards)" in justice to the public, William Thomson and John Lawrence, Jr., who had been trading with the Colony for some years and Avho had left Georgia in June, 1747, on business calling them to England, united in a card to the editor of the London Magazine"^^ in which they stated : " That instead of the false Kepresentation in the said Gazetteer ' That only seven Houses were in the Town of Irederica,' the said Town has several Streets, in every one of which are many good Houses, some of Brick, some of Tappy (which is a Cement of Lime and Oyster Shells;) That the High Street is planted with Orange Trees and has good Houses on both sides.' That the Fort, besides other Buildings has two large Magazines, three Stories high, and sixty Feet long; That there are Bar- * Volume XVI, p. -184. 12G THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA, racks in the Town, on the North side, ninety Feet Square, built of Tappy, covered with Cypress Shingles, and a hand- some Tower over the Gatewa}' of twenty Feet square ; That there are two Bastion Towers, of two stories each, in the Hollow of the Bastions, defended on the Outside with thick Earth-works, and capable of lodging great Num- bers of Soldiers, the two long Sides being nearly fifty Feet, and the short Sides twenty-five ; And that instead of the Inhabitants removing from thence, several Families were come and more coming from North Carolina to settle in Georgia, who will certainly establish themselves there unless they are prevented by any Fears which may arise from the Reduction of the Rangers and Vessels Avliich have hitherto made that Frontier safe : That before the Bar- racks were finished, very good Clap -board Huts were built sufficient for the lodging of two Companies who do Duty at Frederica (with their Wives and Families) Avhicli by an Accident of Fire were lately burnt down ; since which others have been made for married Soldiers ; and the Soldiers have the Privilege of cutting Timber and building Houses for their Families, which many have done, and thrive very well, and we know the Soldiers are regularly paid and kindly treated. We also certify that there are several Farms which produce not only Indian Wheat and Potatoes, but EiKjIish Wheat, Barley, and other Grain. In short, Provisions in general are plentiful. Venison, Beef, Pork, at Two Pence Half-Penny jjer Pound, and sometimes under. Fish extremely cheap." Upon the confirmation of the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle in April, 1748, most of the troops were withdrawn from St. Simons island and the fortifications soon began to fall into decav. FREDERICA. 127 The Trustees having surrendered their charter, Captain John Reynolds was, in 1754, appointed by the King, Governor of Georgia, with the title of "Captain General and Commander in Chief of His Majesty's Province of Georgia, and Vice- Admiral of the same." He entered upon his duties in October of that year, and early, the following Spring, made a tour of inspection through the southern portion of the Province. Arriving at Frederica, he found the town "in ruins," the f(n'tifications "decayed," and the " houses falling down." Twenty pieces of can- non were lying dismounted and " spoiled for want of care." The melancholy prospect was presented of " houses without inhabitants, barracks without soldiers, guns without car- riages, and streets grown over with weeds."- Fort Frederick was entirely dismantled. Not a gun was mounted, and neither powder nor ball could be found. Among his re- commendations for the defense of the Colony, the Gov- ernor suggested the construction of a work at Frederica "in the form of half a hexagon, nine hundred and sixty feet each, with two whole and two demi-bastions towards the land, and two demi-bastions and a citadel towards the sea, on which were to be placed fifty cannon manned by three hundred regulars." This fortification was never built, and no effort Avas made to repair the works then crumbling and abandoned. This dilapidation and neglect continued without any effort on the part of the Colonial authorities to check their annihilating influences. Frederica had now ceased to be a place of any note. In his report of the condition of the Province of Georgia, siibmitted to the Earl of Dartmouth on *A destructive fire had consumed nearly all the houses whii-h time hud spai'ed. See Stevens' History of Georgia, vol. i, p. l-tti. New York, 1847. 128 THE DEAD TOWNS OP GEORGIA. the 20tli of December, 1773, Sir James Wright, then Gov- ernor of the Colony, represents Fort Frederick at Frederica as "going to decay very fast." "There is still," such is the language of the report, "some Remains of good Tabby Walls, Arc, but there has been no men there since the Independent Company were broke in the Year 1767."" In March, 1774, William Bartram visited Frederica and St. Simons island and was most hospitably entertained by Mr. James Spalding who was there engaged in an ex- tensive trade with the Indian tribes of East Florida. Fol- lowing the old highway across the savannah, he devoted a day to exploring the island and was charmed with the magnificent forests of pines and oaks perfumed with the fragrant breath of the white lily and the sweet bay. The venerable live-oaks still overshadowed the spacious avenue leading to the former seat of General Oglethorpe, but that distinguished gentleman was no longer there, and his quiet cottage had passed into the ownership of another. Tlie delights of the woods and waters, the delicious breezes wafted from groves filled with birds of bright plumage and sweet voices, the commingled perfumes of the yellow jasmine, the lonicera, the audromeda and the azalea, and the solemn sound of the incoming surf were, in the re- collection of this happy traveller, associated with generous hospitalit}', a plentiful repast of venison, and an agreeable " drink of honey and water strengthened by the addition of brandy." Although nature was as balmy, as attractive, and as beautiful as ever, Bartram was oppressed by the indica- tions of desolation which confronted him all over the island. He speaks of " vestiges of plantations, ruins of costl}^ build- Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. ui, pp. 168, 169. Savannah, 1873. FEEDERlCA. 129 ings, and highways overgrown with forests." The fort ho found entirely diLapidated, and nothing of the town remain- ing except ruins. From the crumbHng walls of the deserted houses peach trees, figs, and pomegranates were gi'owing.* And so this brave town dwindled away into nothingness. The last detachment of troops stationed there consisted of ten Ro^'al Americans ; but even these were withdrawn during the early part of the administration of Governor Wright. The rupture between Great Britain and her Colonies being imminent, the Council of Safety ordered all guns at Frederica to be secured, and they were used in for- tifying other points on the coast deemed of greater im- portance. During the progress of the expedition pro- jected from Sunbury, by Governor Gwinnett, against Florida, Colonel Elbert, who was in command, on Sun- day, the 11th of May, 1777, lauded at Frederica " to air " his troops. The following entry occurs in his Order- Book : "Frederica was once a pretty little Town, as ap- pears by the Ruins, having been burned down some years since ; the Fort at this place, with a little expence, might be made defensible, and might, if properly garrisoned, be a means of protecting great part of our Southern Fron- tiers. There are about twelve men that bear arms here; in my opinion all Tories. Their Captain, Ditter, says otherwise of himself, and informed me that about 6 or 8 of the inhabitants had lately gone to Florida for iirotec- tion."t By the provisions of the act of the loth of March, 1758,1 di^dding the Pro\dnce into eight Parishes, " the * Travels through North and South Cai-olina, Georgia, kc, pp. 55-GO. Loudon, 179a. t MS. Order-Book of Col. S. Elbort. + Marbury and Crawford's Digest, p. 151. 17 130 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. town and district of Frederica, including the islands of Great and Little St. Simons and the adjacent islands," wer^ declared a parish and named " St. James." Un- der the writs of election issued by Sir James Wright, Lachlan Mcintosh was returned as member for Frederica. On the 10th of August, 1777, some boats from a Brit- ish armed vessel lying in St. Andrews Sound landed on St. Simons island, and their crews captured and car- ried away Captain Arthur Carney, five citizens, several negroes, and as much household furniture as could be conveyed in the barges. Carney had been appointed to the captaincy of the fourth company in the first Conti- nental Battalion of Georgia troops. After his capture, he espoused the Royal cause and proved himself not only an active Tory but a great cattle thief.* While General Robert Howe was concentrating his forces on the Southern frontier of Georgia with a view to the invasion of Florida, Colonel Elbert, who was com- mandmg at Fort Howe, the place of rendezvous, achieved an exploit which imparts another distinct and gallant memory to the neglected settlements, " Where wild Altama murmurs to their woe." The details of the affair are thus narrated in a let- * ter to General Howe : " Frederica, April lOtli, 1778. " Dear General : "I have the happiness to inform you that about 10 o'clock this forenoon, the brigantine Hinchinbrooke, the sloop Rebecca, and a prize brig, all struck the British tyrant's colors and surrendered to the American arms. " Ha\ing received intelligence that the above vessels * See McCaira History of Georgia, vol. i, pj). 131, 132. Savaunah, 1811. FEEDERICA. 131 were at this place, I put about three hundred men, by- detachment from the troops under my command at Fort Howe, on board the three galleys, the Washington Captain Hardy, the Lee, Captain Braddock, and the Bulloch, Captain Hutcher; and a detachment of artil- lery with two field pieces, under Captain Young, I put on board a boat. With this little army we embarked at Darien, and last evening effected a landing at a bluff about a mile below the town, leaving Colonel White on board the Lee, Captain Melvin on board the Washing- ton, and Lieutenant Petty on board the Bulloch, each with a sufficient party of troops. Immediately on land- ing I dispatched Lieutenant-Colonel Ray and Major Rob- erts, with about one hundred men, who marched directly up to the town and made prisoners three marines and two sailors belonging to the Hinchinbrooke. "It being late, the galleys did not engage until this morning. You must imagine what my feelings were to see our three little men-of-war going on to the attack of these three vessels, who have spread terror on our coast, and who were drawn up in order of battle ; but the weight of our metal soon damped the courage of these heroes, who soon took to their boats ; and as many^ as could, abandoned the vessel with everything on board, of which we immediately took possession. What is ex- traordinary, we have not one man hurt. Captain Ellis, of the Hinchinbrooke, is drowned, and Captain Mow- bray, of the Rebecca, made his escape. As soon as I see Colonel White, who has not yet come to us with his prizes, I shall consult with him, the three other officers, and the comanding officers of the galleys, on the expe- diency of attacking the Galatea now lying at Jekyll." 132 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. While Colouel Elbert was preparing to attack lier, the Galatea made her escape to sea.* This successful euter- prize encouraged the troops at Fort Howe, who were in a very dispirited mood. Upon his retreat, by water, from Sunbury in Decem- ber, 1778, Fuser left the regular troops of his expedition at Frederica, with instructions to repair the old military works at that point. These orders were only partially ob- served, and the force was soon withdrawn. During the continuance of the Kevolutionary war St. Simons island, in common with other isolated localities along the Georgia coast, suffered from privateers and armed parties who pillaged the houses of the inhabitants and led captive negroes and domestic animals. Similar annoyances and losses were encountered during the war of 1812-1815. So ruthless had been the spoliations and devastations by the British troops during the progress of the Revolution, that upon its termination but little re- mained of Frederica save the sites of burnt houses and heaps of ruin. The town had almost entirely disappeared. Subsequent attempts to revive it were feeble and unsuc- cessful. Of the State legislation with regard to Frederica, the following synopsis may not be deemed inappropriate : On the 17th of December, 1792, James Spalding, John Braddock, Raymond Demere, John Palmer, John Bur- nett, John Piles, Moses Burnett, Samuel Wright, and WiUiam Williams were appointed Commissioners of the towns and commons of Frederica and Brunswick. They were directed, after three months' published notice, to See McCall's History of Georgia, vol. n, pp. 137-139. Savanuah, 1811. Stevens' History of Georgia, vol. ii, pp. 161-162. Philadelphia, 1859. White's Historical Collections of Georgia, p. 468. New York, 1855. FREDERICA. 133 cause surveys to be made of those towns, according to their original plans, and to have the same recorded in the Surveyor General's office, and in the office of the Surveyor of Glynn county. Any vacant lots, except such as were originally reserved for public uses, were then to be sold upon four weeks' public notice ; and the proceeds arising from such sales, after deducting the necessary expense of survey, devoted to the building and support of an Academy in Glynn County.* In February, 1796, special Commissioners were named for the town of Frederica. They were John Cooper, Wil- Uam Mcintosh, James Harrison, James Moore, and Wil- liam Clubbs. It was made their duty to lay off the town, as nearly as practicable, according to its original plan, cause the streets to be opened, the lots to be plainly marked or staked off, the commons to be re- surveyed, and an accurate map prepared and recorded in the Surveyor General's office within two months after the passage of the act. The survey of the town having been completed, the Commissioners were required, by notice in one of the public gazettes of the State, to call upon the owners and holders of lots to make due return thereof to the Commissioners within nine months, and pay the sum of one dollar per lot in defi'ayal of the cost of the survey. All lots not returned within the prescribed period were, after six weeks public advertisement, to be sold to the highest bidder, one half of the purchase money to be paid in cash and the remainder in twelve months thereafter; the deferred payment being secured by bond -ftith mortgage on the premises purchased. The proceeds of such sales. * Watkins' Digest, p. 470. 134 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. after defraying the expences incurred in la3dng off the town and commons, were to be apphed to the support of an academy or seminary of learning in Glynn County. Any person attempting to run up or appropriate any part of the town common was declared liable to a fine of five hundred dollars, to be recovered in the Superior Court of Glynn County by the Commissioners or any inhabitant or lot owner in the town ; one half the fine to enure to the benefit of the academy, and the other half to go to the party suing for the same. All surteys previously made, and grants surreptitiously obtained, were declared null and void, and any person in possession by virtue of such survey or grant was liable to the fine above mentioned, to be recovered in the manner indicated." In 1801 Frederica is mentioned by Sibbald as " a pleas- antly situated town on the island of St. Simons, latitude 31" 15' North," but he gives no statistics either of its popu- lation or commerce.t By an act assented to November 26th, 1802,:}: the fi-ont range of lots in the town of Frederica being " too distant from the water for the convenient storage or shipping of produce, or the landing of goods imported to that place," the Commissioners were empowered " to cause a range of lots to be laid off in front of said town, commencing at low water mark, and running back so far as to leave a street eighty feet between the present front range of lots and those to be laid off." These new lots were to be sold at public outcry upon WatkiDH' Dit'ost. pp. 598, 50!). 1 " Notos and Observations on the Pine Lands of Georgia," &c. Augusta, 1801. J Clayton's Digest, p. 63. PREDERICA. 135 sixty days' notice, and tlie moneys realized upon such sale, after defraying the expences of the survey, were to be paid over to the Commissioners of the Academy of Glynn county to be by them expended for the benefit of that institution. Two correct plans of these water lots were to be prepared and certified by the surveyor, one to be transmitted by the Commissioners to the Surveyor General for record in his office, and the other to be delivered to the County Surveyor of Glynn county to be by him recorded in his office. On the 18th of November, 1814,* the Commissioners of the towns of Brunswick and Frederica were authorized to levy a tax upon the lots in those towns, whether im- proved or unimproved, and pay over the moneys thus raised to the Justices of the Inferior Court of Glynn county for the purpose of erecting a Court House and Jail. To the same object was to be applied one-fourth of the future rents of the town commons. AU efi'orts to revivify the dead town, to perpetuate some- thing like a corporate existence, to reahze a revenue by special taxation of abandoned premises, to maintain a semblance of public streets, commons, and private lots, to clothe water fronts with the dignity of commercial wharves, and transmit the physical impressions of the older days, proved utterly futile.t Frederica lost its importance when it ceased to be the strong-hold of the southern fron- tier. Its mission was accomplished when the Spaniard no longer threatened. Its doom was pronounced in the * Lamar's Digest, pp. 902, 978. t Alluding to Frerlerica, in 1829, Sherwoodt says : " The Fort is gone to decay, but there are ten houses In the village." t Gazetteer of Georgia, p. 111. 136 THE DKAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. liour of its triumpli. Upon the withdrawal of Oglethorpe's regiment its decadence began, and ceased not until its fort became a white ruin, its public parade a pasture ground, and its streets and gardens a cotton field.* Omnia debentur morti. * Frances Anne Kemble, who visited Frederica in the spring of 1839, thus records her impressions of the deserted spot : "This Frederioa is a very strange place : it was once a town, Uie town, the metropolis of the island. The English, wlien they landed on the coast of Cieorgia in the war, destroyed this tiny place, and it has never been built up again. Mrs. A.'s and one other house, are the only dwellings that remain in this curious wilderness of dismantled crumbling graywalls compassionately cloaked with a thousand profuse and graceful creepers. These are the only ruins, properl,y so called, except those of Fort Putnam, that I have ever seen in this land of contemptuous youth. 1 hailed these picturesrjue groups and masses with the feelings of a European, to whom ruins are like a sort of relations. In my country, ruins are like a minor chord in music: here they are like a discord ; they are not the relics of time, but the resTilts of violence ; they re- call no valuable memories of a remote past, and are mere encumbrances to the busy present. Evidently they are out of place in America except on St. Simon's island, between this savage selvage of civilization and the great Atlantic deep. These heaps of rubbish and roses would have made the fortune of a sketcher ; but I imagine the snakes have it all to themselves here, and are undisturbed by camp-stools, white umbrellas, and ejacula- tory young ladies." Journal of a Residence on a Georgian Plantation, &c., p. 285. Kew York, 18C3. m. ABERCORN On a creek or branch of the Savannah, distant some three miles from its confluence with that river, and about fifteen miles above the town of Savannah, the vil- lage of Abercorn was located in 1733. Its original set- tlement consisted of ten families. The plan of the town embraced twelve lots, with two trust lots in addition, one on either extremity. Old Ebenezer was ten miles to the west ; and four miles below the mouth of Aber- corn creek, was Joseph's Town, where two Scotch gen- tlemen had selected plantations on the right bank of the Savannah. Journeying towards Savannah, in the early days of the Colou}^,. the visitor would encounter suc- cessively Sir Francis Bathurst's plantation, Walter Au- gustin's settlement, Captain Williams' plantation, Mrs. Matthews' place, the Indian School -house Irene, the Horse Quarter, and the Indian lands reserved just out- side the limits of Yamacraw. A strange fatality attend- ed all these early attempts at colonization. Born of the subjugation of the forests, were malarial fevers and fluxes which engendered lassitude and death. Short lived were these httle settlements, and it was only upon the intro- duction of slave labor that these plantations bordering upon the Savannah became permanent and productive. The white men who strove to bring them into a state of cultivation failed in the effort and quickly passed away. Others, who endeavored to complete their labors, encountered similar misfortune and disaiipointment. 18 138 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. The trii fainilios who were assigned to Abercorn in 1733 were all gone in 1737. Tliat year Mr. John Bro- die, -with twelve servants, occupied the settlement ; but, after three 3-ears, he abandoned the place, leaving its imjirovemeuts to ruin and decay. Most of the thirty servants who cultivated the lands of the Scotch gentlemen at Josei)h's Town died, and that plantation lapsed into neglect. The Saltzburgers who came to Georgia under the conduct of Baron Yon Reck and the Eev'd Mr. Bolzius, in passing from Savannah to Old Ebenezer, were sheltered and re- freshed at Abercorn. To th-at place their baggage was brought by water, and for some time all their supplies were delivered at that point whence they were carried, at much pains, up Ebenezer creek and through the woods. Before long, however, a rc^ad was cut from Abercorn to Old Ebenezer which facilitated the transportation. While at Abercorn the Saltzburgers suffered much from affections of the bow^els. Various efforts were made by the Trustees to increase the population and ensure the prosperity of Abercorn, which was regarded as a convenient point for (;omniuni- cating with the Carolina settlements on the Savannah river ; but they all eventuated in disappointment. Such of the colonists as were sent there from time to time grew sick and tired of the abode, took no interest in its advance- ment, and abandoned it upon the earliest opportunity. The little life which this small place enjoyed was insignificant and without moment in the history of the Colony. In December, 1739, Mr. Stephens visited the town in company with Mr. Jones, to inspect a large ferry-boat which, in obedience to General Oglethorpe's orders, had been there constiiicted by one Bunyon, a boat-builder by trade, and an inhabitant of the town. This boat was ca- ABERCORN. 139 pable of trcinsporting nine or ten horses at a time, and was intended to ply between Abercorn and Palacliocolas. In perpetuating his impressions of the phice Mr. Stephens says : " As there was no Place in tlic whole Province, of the like Allotment of fifty acres each, which in my eye seemed so desirable, being a most pleasant Situation on the Banks of such a Eiver, with as good Land belonging to each Lot, as is readily to be found in most Parts of the Province ; I never saw it but with Regret, that there never yet had been a number of Settlers there deserving it ; but generally they happened to be loose, idle People, who after some short Abode, wandered elsewhere and left it : - * * and there are at present five Families only remaining there, nor has there often .been more at one Time. As the Trust-Lands seem to be now in some better way of cultivating by their own Servants, than hitherto ; I proposed it to Mr. Jones to send down a few German families to work on the Trust- Lots there ; which, by helping to fill the Place, very prob- ably might induce others the sooner to occupy Lands there also : He agreed with me in Opinion, and said he would write of it to the General."* It is very questionable whether this opinion of Mr. Stephens, formed during the winter, of the desirableness of this locality, would have been confirmed by a residence there amid the heats and miasmatic hifluences of the summer and fall. Some Germans did settle in the neighborhood and cultivate the soil, but all efforts to promote the pros- perity of the village and elevate it into the dignity of a town utterly failed. Like Joseph's Town and Westbrook, Abercorn is little more than a name in the history of the Colony. In the end it passed into the hands of two EngHsh * A Journal of the Proceecliugs in Georgia, kc. vol. ii, pp. 'iVk 216. Lomlou, 171-J. 140 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. gentlemen who converted the village into a plantation cultivated with slave labor. So it continued under various owners until, by the result of the civil war, the negro has been liberated, and the fortunes of this region have become more unpromising than ever before. After the capture of Savannah in December, 1778, Colonel Campbell advanced a strong force to this place as a con- venient base for future operations against the interior of the State ; and hence, in 1779, did a British detachment move, crossing over to Purysburg and attempting to surprise General Moultrie at Black-swamp. The town had so entirely faded from the face of the earth that its location is not indicated on that admirable map of South Carolina and Georgia, published- by William Faden at Charing Cross in 1780 : and the only mention made by White is as follows : " Abercorn, sixteen miles from Savannah, was a noted place in the early settlement of Geor- gia. No memorial of its former condition can now be seen." Savannah, increasing her borders, practically claims as part of herself the Indian lands op]30site the northern end of Hutchinson island. Of the Horse Quarter nothing remains. Joseph's Town long ago lost its identity ; and Abercorn, New Ebenezer, Purisburg, and Palachocolas, have, within the recollection of more than one generation, been known simply as boat-landings on the water-highway be- tween Savannah and Augusta.* For notict's of Aberc-orn, see "An Extract of tlie Journals of Mr. Commissary Von Beck, kc, and of the Kevereud Mr. Bolzius," pp. 18, 20, 54, 66, 69. Loudon, 1734. " An Account Shewing the Progress of the Colony of Georgia, iu America, " &c., p. 35. London, 1741. Stepliens' " .Journal of the Proceedings in Georgia," &c., vol. l, p. "230. Vol. ii. pp. 215, 216. London, 1742. " .\n Kxtract of the Kev. Mr. John Wesley's Journal," &c. p. 60. Bristol, n. d. " A State of the Province of Georgia, attested upon oath," &c., p. 5. London, 1742. "A True and Historical Narrative of the Colony of Georgia," &c., by Tailfcr, Ander- son, and Douglas, p. 108. Charles-Town, 1741. Plan, of (ie JowJi. of Sa?ldaA ,^,. Co/acn inf 3 30 /ee6 en,o^^i^J/ovJyd;(A, /o <%U/Jl.,^ Hhvo Llih .V V IV. SUNBURY. On the 23rd of Jauuary, 1734, Mr. Oglethorpe, accom- panied by Captain Ferguson and sixteen attendants, inchiding two Indians, set out from Savannah in an open row-boat, followed by a yawl carrying proNdsions and ammunition, upon an exploratory expedition to the Southern frontiers of Georgia.* His course laj^ through the inner passages, and was pursued as far as St Simons island. For the protection of the Colony it was then determined to form a military station and settlement near the mouth of the Alatamaha ; and, as an outpost and barrier against Spanish invasion, to erect a strong fort on the high bluff on the western side of St. Simons island. These sites were shortly afterwards occupied and fortified, and were respectively named New Inverness and Frederica. It was during this reconnoissance that the eyes of the Founder of Georgia first rested upon that bold and beautiful bluft* which, overlooking the placid waters of Midway river and the intervening low-lying salt marshes, descries in the distance the gi'een woods of Bermuda island, the dim outline of the southern point of Ossabaw, and, across the sound, the white shores of St. Catherine. Although formal session had been made by the Lower Creeks of all lands along the sea-coast * See Memoir of General James Oglethorpe by Robert Wright, p. 7i. London, 1857. 1J:2 THE DE.U) TOWNS OF GEORGIA. from the Savannali to the Ahitamaha river, extending westward as higli as the tide flowed, and inchiding all islands except a few which the Indians specially reserved for the purposes of hunting, fishing, and bathing, no En- glish settlements had, at that early day, been formed south of the Great Ogeechee river. Fort Argyle, gar- risoned by Captain McPherson and his troop of Ran- gers, and commanding the passes by which the Indians during the late wars were accustomed to invade Caro- lina, was then the only military jjost of any conse- quence in the direction of the Spaniards. From this nameless bluff the Aborigines had not then removed, and their canoes might be seen passing and repassing to and from Hussoope, [Ossabaw], and Cowleggee, [St. Cath- arine], islands and the main. To the quiet woods and waters of this semi-tropical region the English were strangers. The Bermuda grass which, at a later period, so completely covered Sunbury bluff, did not then ap- pear, l)ut magnificent live oaks, in full grown stature and solenni mien, crowned the high-ground even to the very verge where the tide kissed the shore. Cedars, festoon- ed with vines, over hung the waters. The magnoha grandiflora, queen of the forest, excited on every hand the admiration of the early visitor. The sweet-scented myi-tle, the tall pine, the odoriferous bay, and (ither indig- enous trees lent their charms to a spot Avliose primal beauty had encountered no change at the hand of man. The woods were resonant with the songs of birds, whose bright plumage vied in coloring with the native flowers wliicli gladdened the eye and gave gentle odors to the ambient air. Fishes al)ounded in the waters, and game on the land. Cool sea-breezes tempered the heat of sum- SUNBURY. 143 mer, and the rigor of cold was unknown in the depth of Avinter. It was a gentle, attractive place, this bold bluff, as it came from the hand of Nature, Some scene like this did the Poet Waller have in view as he sang : " Heav'n,siu-e has kept this spot of earth lUKiirst. To show how all things were created first." By a certain grant under the great seal of the Province of Georgia, bearing date the 4th of October, 1757, his Majesty George II conveyed to Mark Carr, his heirs and assigns forever, in free and common socage, " All that tract of land containing five hundred acres, situate and being in the District of Midway in the Province of Geor- gia, bounded on the east by the Midway river, on the west by land of Thomas Carr, on the south by vacant land, and on all other sides by marshes of the said river." The grantee of these lands, which embraced the site of the future toAvn of Sunbury, had been for some twenty years a man of means and of mark in the Colony of Geor- gia. In 1741 he had been sent by General Oglethorpe to Virginia to raise recruits for the Colony." In his last will and testament, dated June 8th, 1767, and proven be- fore his Excellency Sir James Wright on the the 4th of December of the same year. Captain Carr describes him- self as being " of the Parish of St. Patrick in the Province of Georgia, Esquire." He owned lots in the town of Frederica, an island on the north side of MidAvay river, a tract of land on the main fronting that island, which he had purchased from John Cubbage, and "a plantation on the main over against Jekyll island." This Avas his fa- vorite residence. Here, on the 18th of March, 1741, despite the presence of a guard of soldieis there stationed * Memoir of Geueral James Oglethorpe, by Robert Wright, pp. W-t, 285. Lomlou, IbOT. 144 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. by General Oglethorpe, the Indians Jmade an attack very early in the morning, killing several of the soldiers and servants, wonnding others, "locking down the women and children in the cellar," pillaging the house, and carrying away the booty in a large boat belonging to the plantation.* The grant of this five hundred acre tract on Midway river to Mark Carr in fee simple, was made under the operation of the rules adopted by the Common Council in May, 1750, which essentially enlarged the tenures of grants already existing, and provided that future alienations should convey "an absolute inheritance to the grantees, their heirs and assigns." It will be remembered that under the regulations at first prescribed by the Trustees, five hundred acre tracts were conveyed only to persons well approved by the Trust ; parties who should at their own expense, and within twelve months from the date of the grant, bring ten able-bodied men servants not younger than twenty years of age, and settle upon the lands. Former alienations of this magnitude had been coupled with other conditions, among which the following may be enumerated as the most important : I. The grantee obligated himself to abide in Georgia with his servants for a term of not less than three years, building houses and cultivating the lands. II. Within ten years from the registry of the grant, at least two hundred of the five hundred acres were to be cleared and cultivated. III. No ahenation of the lands thus granted, either in w'hole or in part, for a term of years or otherwise, was permitted except by special leave. See A Journal of the Proceedings in Georgia, kc, by William Stephens, pp. ICO. Kil. London, mdccxlii. SUNBURY. 145 IV. After the lapse of eighteen years from the date of the grant, should any part of the five Iniudred acres re- main uncultivated, unplanted, uncleared, and without a worm-fence, or pales six feet high, such portion should revert to the Trust, and the grant, pro tanto, was to be- come void. V. These grants were in Tail Male.* On the 20th of June, 1758, Mark Carr conveyed tliree hundred acres of this five hundred acre tract, including that portion bordering upon Midwa}^ river, to " James Max- w^ell, Kenneth Baillie, John Elliott, Grey Elliott, and John Stevens, of Midway, Esquires," * * * in trust that the same should be laid out as a town by the name of Sun- bury ; one hundred acres thereof being dedicated as a common, for the use of the future inhabitants ; and in further trust "that they, the said James Maxwell, Ken- neth Baillie, John Elliott, Grey Elliott, and John Stevens and their successors, should sell and disj^ose of all and singular the lots to be laid out in the said town of Sunbury to and for the proper use and behoof of the said Mark Carr." Captain McCallt suggests that "the town was called Sun- bury, the etymology of which is probably the residence of the sun, from the entire exposure of this place to his beams while he is above the horizon." We believe that this projected village was named for Sunbur}', a quiet and beautiful town in Middlesex County, on the left l)ank oi the Thames, only a little way above Hampton Court, and distant some eighteen miles by land from London ; it being a pleasant custom among the colonists to perpetuate *S(,e An Account Shewing the Progress of the Colony of Georgia in America, &<. pp. 48, 49. London, 1741. t History of Georgia, vol. l, p. 255. Savannah, 1811. 19 146 THE DEAD TOWNS OF OEORGIA. ill their ucw homes the memories of persons and pLaces clear to them in the mother country. In ancient records, says Lysoiis, this place (Sunbuiy in England) is called Snnnahyri, Simneberie, Suneberie, A?c. Snnnabyri is composed of two Saxon words, sunna, the sun, and hijr'i, a town, and may be supposed to denote a i>lace exposed to tlie sun, or with a southern aspect. A name better suited to this locality could scarcely have been suggested. It recalls the peaceful memories of one of the gentle towns of old England, and typifies the genial influences of the "King of Day" as, fi-om early dawn until sunset, he irradiates with floods of hght the bold bluft* "on the westermost bank of the river Midway." Two of the Trustees, John Stevens and John Elliott, were prominent members of the Midway Congregation. James Maxwell had been for several years a resident of St. John's Parish. He and John Stevens were members of the Provincial Congress which assembled at Tondee's Long-room in Savannah on the 4tli of Jul}-, 1775.* Kenneth BailUe and Grey Elliott were active and in- fluential citizens. The latter was subsequently selected by the General Assembly to act as an assistant fi'om the Colony of Georgia to Dr. Benjamin Franklin who had been chosen by several of the Provinces, Georgia among the number, and sent on a special mission to England to represent the wants and grievances of the Colonies, re- monstrate against such acts of the Crown as were deemed oppressive, and oppose taxation without representation. ^ *Tlie following niembcrs of that Conynss came from the Parish of St. John: James Screven. Nathan Urownson. Daniil Kobcrts, John Balicr, Sr.. John Bacon, Sr.. Jame.i Max- well, Kilward Boll. Williuiu Baker, Sr.. William Bacon, Jr., John Stevens, and John Winn. Sr.t tStcvenH" HiHtory of Georgia, vol. ii, p. lOCi. tSee McCall's History of Georgia, vol. ii, p. 7. Savannah, IKIG. RiJNKUKY. 147 All the Trustees, therefore, were men of position and character, commanding the respect of the community. Their selection for the trust indicated sound judgment and well-placed confidence on the part of Mark Carr. The road from Savannah to New Inverness in the Darieu settlement which, in 173G, in obedience to Mr. Oglethorpe's orders, was located by Captain Hugh. Mac- Kay, Jr., with his company of Eangers, and Indian guides furnished by Tomo-chi-chi, had been completed. Various settlements on the Savannah, Vernon, and Great Ogee- chee rivers, and also on St, Simons island and the Ala- tamaha river having been confirmed, between 1740 and 1750 planters with their families and servants began to move in and occupy desirable localities intermediate the Great Ogeechee and Alatamaha rivers. The sites, at first selected, lay along the line of the Savannah and New Inverness road, and upon high-grounds adjacent thereto bordering upon salt-water streams and swamps emptying into them. Between the Great Ogeechee and South-New Port rivers was formed the Midway settlement. This district derived its name from its location, which was about m'ldioay between the rivers Savannah and Ala- tamaha then constituting the northern and southern boundaries of the colony. It has been suggested, and the belief is current with some, that the true spelling is Medway, and that both the District and the river which permeates it were named for one of the well-known streams of merrie old Enjiland.* * The Medway, in the county of Kent, is a, noble stream. Its trunk and branches cover thirty square miles of the surface of the county, and its length is nearly sixty miles, of which forty are navigable. This river well deserves the nami; of Vaga, by which the Britons described its wandering's. The Saxons added the syllable Me/l, the sign of mid- dle, because the river runs through the centre of the county, and tlius gets its ijrcscnt name of Medway. EncyclopflBdia Britanica, 8th Edition, vol. xiii, Article Kent, p. 65. See also vol. via, p. 716. 148 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. On the only plan of Sunbury the writer has been able to procure, and in some of the early records, this river is written Medway. It may be fairly stated, however, that while by some the river may have been called Med- way, the district was universally known as Midioay. The time-honored church, which still stands, and its prede- cessor which so long stood near the intersection of the Savannah and Darien, and the Sunbury roads, are both remembered as the 3Iidivay and not Medtcay congrega- tional meeting houses. We are persuaded that the river as well as the district were both named 3fidicay : the former being called for the latter. By an act dividing the several districts and divisions of the Province of Georgia into Parishes, passed the 15th day of March, 1758,* it was provided that " the town of Hardwick and district of Ogechee, on the south side of- the river Great Ogechee, extending northwest up the said river so far as the Lower Indian trading path leading from Mount Pleasant, and southward from the town of Hardwick as far as the swamp of James Dunham, in- cluding the settlements on the north side of the north branches of the river Midway, with the islands of Ossa- baw, and from the head of the said Dunham's Swamp in a north-west line, shall be and forever constitute a parish by the name of ' The Parish of St. Philip ' : from Sunbury in the district of Midway and Newport from the southern bounds of the parish of St. Philip, extending southward as far as the north line of Samuel Hastings, and from thence southeast to the south branch of Newport, includ- ing the islands of St. Katharine and Bermuda, and from the north Hue of the said Samuel Hastings northwest, Marbury ami Crawford's Digest, pp. 150 152. SUNBURY. 149 shall be and forever continue a parish by the name of ' The Parish of St. John ' : the town and district of Darien, extending from the south boundary of the parish of St. John to the river Alatamaha, including the islands of Sapelo and Eastwood, and the sea islands to the north of Egg island northwest up the river Alatamaha to the forks of the said river, shall be and forever continue a parish by the name of ' The Parish of St. Andrew : ' and the town and district of Frederica, including the islands of Great and Little St. Simons, and the adjacent islands shall be and forever continue a parish by the name of ' The Parish of St. James.' " Such were the territorial limits of the four southern parishes of the province, approved by Governor Ellis, and designed to promote the establishment of religious worship according to the rites and ceremonies of the Church of England."" As the early population of Sunbury Avas largely drawn from the members of the Midway congregation, the most pronounced society existing within the limits of St. John's parish at the time of its formation, a brief sketch of that congregation and its estabhshment in Georgia, ma}- not be deemed irrelevant. Early in 1697 a body of Puritans from the Towns of Dorchester, Roxbury, and Milton, in Massachusetts, taking with them their pastor, the Reverend Joseph Lord, and proclaiming as a leading object the encouragement of churches and the promotion of religion in the Southern plantations, removed with their families and personal effects Under the writs of election issued by Sir James Wright iu 17()1. Tboinas Carter, Par- menus Way and John Winn were returned a-s members from Slidway and Suubury in St. John's Parish. t tMcCaU's Georgia, vol. i, p. 286, 150 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. and formed a, new liome at Dorchester, in the province of Soiith Carohna. The church which they there established was the first Congregational or Independent C'hnrch within the confines of that Colony. All the other religions socie- ties belonged to the established Church of England. After a residence of more than fifty years, finding their lands impoverished and insufficient for the lising genera- tion, Dorchester and Beach-Hill proving very unhealth}^, the good reports of the lands in Georgia having been con- firmed upon the personal inspection of certain members of the Society who had been sent for that purpose, and a grant of 22,-400 acres of land having been secured from the authorities in Georgia, which grant was subsequently enlarged by the addition of 9,950 acres, the members of the Dorchester Society commenced moving in 1752 into what is now the swamp region of Liberty County. The settlement lay between Mount Hope Swamp, the head of Midway riv^r, on the North, and Bull-Town Swamp on the South. At first, however, it was not so compre- hensive. It extended neither to the pine barrens on the West, nor to the salt water on the East. This immigra- tion, begun in 1752, was continued until 1771, when it ceased.* According to the records of the Society, there were forty-four removals in all, of which one family came from Charlestown, four fiom Pon-Pon, and the remaining thirty-nhie from Dorchester and Beach-Hill. These re- *DeBrahm says: "The Beach-Hill Congregation settled upon the Heads of the two Nt'Wiiort Uivers early in the year 1752, when they left Carolina in u great Boily, they con- tinued drawing their KtTccts and Cattle aftiT settling all other Concerns in their native Province iintil 1755, many rich Carolina Planters followed the Example of that Congre- gation, and came with all their Families and Negroes to settle in Georgia iu 17.52: the Spirit of Kmigratiou out of South Carolina into Georgia became so universal that year, that this and the following year near one thousand Negroes was brought in Georgia^ where in 1751 were scarce above three dozen. "t t History of the Province of Georgia, kc, p. 21. Wormsloe, 18-li). RUNBURY. 151 movals were most numerous during the years 1754, 1755, and 1756. These immigrants brought their negroes with them, and it appears probable, from the best hghts before us, that the popuLation of this colony, after its full estab- lishment, consisted of about 350 whites, and 1500 negro slaves. The region into which the Dorchester Congregation immigrated was already known as the Midway District. To the General Assembly which convened in Savannah in 1751, Audley Maxwell, Esquire, was sent as a delegate ; its population then entitling it to such representation. It would appear that a number of famihes residing m the Midway District previous to the arrival of the Dorchester Congregation, united with that Society after it Avas regularly domiciled in its new home. The Dorchester Colony did not immigrate, in its entirety, to Georgia. Some families continued to dwell at Dorchester and Beach-Hill, where their descendants may yet be found. Others removed else- where. With the formation of the new settlement in St. John's parish, however, the old Dorchester colony in South Carolina lost its integrity and (distinctive characteristics. In locating their plantations amid the swamps of St. John's parish, the following plan was adopted : After laying by their crops in Carolina in the fall of the year, the plant- ers came with able-bodied hands, and, during the winter, cleared land and Iniilt houses. In a season or two having thus sufficiently prepared the way, they brought their fami- lies and servants in the early spring, and at once entered upon the cultivation of the soil. Thus was the removal rendered as safe and comfortable as the nature of the case permitted. Strange to say, their dwellings and plantation quarters 152 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. were invariablj located on tlie edges of the swamps, in utter disregard of the manifest hiws of health. In such mahirial situations was the entire year passed. Their houses at first wer(> l)uilt of wood, one story high, with dormer windows in the roofs, small in size, without lights, with no inside linings, and with chimneys of clay. The negro-houses were made either of clay or poles. For market, rice was the only article cultivated. While corn was planted on the upland, chief attention was bestowed upon the clearing, ditching, and drainage of the swamps. A miasmatic soil was thus exposed to the action of the sun, at their very doors. The consequence of such injudi- cious location, and of a general inattention to domestic comfort, was violent sickness and considerable mortality. So frequent were the deaths among children that they seldom arrived at puberty. Those who attained the age of manhood and womanhood possessed feeble constitutions. According to the register kept by the Society, from 1J52 to 1772, the period during which this settlement was being formed, 193 births and 134 deaths occurred. The mortality was greatest during the months of September, October, and November. April, May, June, and August appear to have been the healthiest months : June par- ticularly so. Bilious fevers in the fall, and pleurisies in the winter and spring, were the diseases which proved most fatal. It used to be said of such as survived a severe attack of bilious fever in the fall, that they would certainly die of pleurisy in the winter or spring. The Indians being in the vicinity, and at times indulging in acts of hostility, some of the houses of these early settlers wore made of hewn cypress logs after the fashion of block houses, and were bidlet jjroof. StJNBURY. 153 The style of agriculture in vogue waa of the most primi- tive sort. The ground was tilled with hoes only. Ploughs were not in use. All rails for fencing were carried on the heads and shoulders of the negroes, and in the same manner was rice transported from the fields. This grain was not only threshed but also beaten by hand : and thus was the crop prepared for market. At first some of the planters sold their crops in Savannah. A trip to that place was the event of the year, and the anticipated jour- ney was talked of in the neighborhood for some time be- fore it was undertaken. Horses were specially fed and carefully attended for a week or more preparatory to the jaunt. Ordinary journeys to church, and of a social char- acter, were performed on horseback. Hence horse-blocks were to be seen at every door. When he would a-woo- ing go, the gallant appeared mounted upon his finest steed and in his best attire, followed by a servant on an- other horse, conveying his master's valise behind him. Shortly after the Revolutionary war stick-back gigs were introduced. If a woman were in the vehicle and unattended, the waiting man rode another horse, keep- ing along side of the shaft horse and holding the check rein in his left hand. When his master held the lines, the servant rode behind. Men often went armed to church for fear of the Indians. The country was filled with game. Ducks and wild geese in innumerable quantities frequented the rice-fields. Wild turkeys and deer abounded. Bears and beavers were found in the swamps, and buffalo herds wandered at no great remove to the southward and northward. There was no lack of squirrels, raccoons, opossums, rab- bits, snipe, wood-cock, and quail. Wildcats and hawks 20 154 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. were the pest of the region, while the cougar was some- times heard and seen in the depths of the vine-clad swamps. The waters which they held were alive with fishes, alligators, terrapins, and snakes. Such, in a few words, Avas the condition of the swamp region of the Midway District when the town of Sun- bury was located. Responding to the trust reposed in them by the conveyance from Mark Carr, Messrs. James Maxwell, Kenneth Baillie, John Elliott, Grey Elliott, and John Stevens, with due dispatch set about laying off the town upon the "westermost bank" of Midway river. The plan, as matured and carried out by them, embraced three public squares, known respectively as Kimfs, Church, and Meeting, and four hundred and ninety-six lots. These lots had a uniform front of seventy feet, and were one hun- dred and thirty feet in depth. Lots numbers one to forty, inclusive, fronting on the river, were denominated Bay Lots, and carried with them the ownership of the shore to low- water mark. Four lots constituted a block, bounded on three sides by streets, and on the fourth by a lane. The streets were seventy-five feet broad, and the lanes twenty feet wide. The plan of the town was entirelj^ regular. The streets in one direction ran at right angles to the river, and were, at right angles, intersected by the cross streets and lanes. From north to south the length of Sunbury, as thus laid out, was .3430 feet. Its breadth on tlie south side was 2230 feet, and on the north, 1880 feet. Within a short time substantial wharves were constructed, the most marked of which were subsequently owned and used by the following merchants : Kelsell k Spalding, Fisher, Jones k Hughes, Darling & Co., and Lamott. That Sunbury must rapidly have attracted the notice of SUNBURY. 155 the colonists and quickly secured a population by no means insignificant or destitute of influence in that day of small things, is evidenced by the fact that as early as 1761 the Governor, by and with the advice and consent of his council, estabhshed and declared it to be a port of entry, and appointed Thomas Carr, Collector, John Martin, Naval Offi- cer, and Francis Lee, Searcher. These appointments were confirmed by the Commissioners of his Majesty's Customs.* By deed prepared by Thomas Bosomworth, Malatche Opiya, Mico, Emperor of the Upper and Lower Creeks, in consideration of ten pieces of stroud, twelve pieces of duffles, two hundred weight of powder, two hundred weight of lead, twenty guns, twelve pairs of pistols, and one hundred weight of vermilion, on the 14tli day of December, 1749, conveyed to Thomas and Mary Bosomworth [formerly Musgrove] Hussoope or Ossabaw island, Cowleggee or St. Catherine island,!' and Sapelo, with their appurten- ances, warranting the same to them, their heu's, and assigns, so long as the sun should shine, or the waters flow in the rivers.:]: This claim to the ownership of these valuable islands proved a very annoying one to the colonists. After years of litigation, the dispute was finally *See Stevens" History of Georgia, vol. n, p. 21. Pliilaflelphia. 185!). In his letter to Lord Halifax, written in 17G:J, Sir James Wright says : " I judgecl it necessary for liis Ma.iesty's service that Siinbury. a well settled place, having an exceeil- ing good harbour and inlet from the sea, should be made a Port of Entry : and I have appointed Thomas Carr, Collector, and John Martin, Naval Ottit er for the same. There are eighty dwelling houses in the place : three considerable merchant stores for supply- ing the town and planters in the neighborhood with all kinds of necessary goods ; and around it for about fifteen miles is one of the best settled parts of the country." t When visited by an English traveller in 1743, this island was inhabited by eight or ten families of Indians, who had considerable tracts of open land, and were largely engaged in the cultivation of corn. It abounded with game, "on which," says the writer, "the good /ttlemeut was considerably demoralized. " Fields once her [Midway's] glory aud her pridt^ Weeds, grass, aud briars uow do liidc. Aud worst of villains make their home Where flames had happen'd not to come. " Instead of preaching, prayers, and praises. Now on the Gospel holy days They race, and light, and swear and game. Without regard to law or shame. " They arm'd, disguis'd, with faces blacked. Do many villainies transact ; The few, few lionest that are here, Do often rob aud put in fear." MS. Diary of Ben.t'n Bakeu. SUNBURY. 105 time, if promptly obeyed, to have ensured tlie salvatiou of tlie garrison ; but Major Lane, moved by the persuasions of Captain DoUar, commanding a company of artillery, and the entreaties of the citizens of Sunbury, resolved to disregard the instructions of his General, and assumed the responsibility of remaining and defending the fort and town.* The account of the reduction of Fort Morris and the fall of Sunbury we give in the language of Captain McCaU : " On the first notice of the arrival of the transports [con- veying Colonel Campbell's command,] off the coast of Geor- gia, General Prevost [then in Florida] marched ; and em- barked in boats, two thousand men, consisting of artillery, infantry, loyalists, and Indians. On the 6th of January, [1779] that part of his army which moved by water was landed on Colonel's island, seven miles south of Sunbury, aboi^t ten o'clock in the morning; and Prevost with the light infantry, marched and took possession of the town early on the ensuing day. Two American galHes and an armed sloop cannonaded the enemy, but with little effect. The following day the main body of the enemy arrived. Every exertion was made to prevent the landing of the cannon and mortars near the town, by the fire from the gaUies and the fort. On the night of the 8th they took advantage of the low tide to pass behind a marsh islandt opposite to the fort, with a few of their boats containing cannon, howitzers, and mortars, and landed them above the town and placed them on batteries previously prepared. *For this disobedience of orders M Historical Address before the Liberty Indepeudent Troop by the Rev. Dr. Charles Colcock Jones, pp. 10, 11. Savannah, 185G. tSee W'atkins' Digest, p. 431. Marbury and Crawford's Digest, pp. 128, 120. SUNBURY. 211 make sucli by-laws and regulations, and impose such pains, penalties, and forfeitures as they might deem conducive to the good order and government of the town, provided the same were not repugnant to the constitution and hiws of the State, and did not extend to Hfe or member. By the third section the Commissioners, or a majority of them, were required "yearly and every year to make, lay, and assess a rate or assessment upon all and every person or persons who do or shall inhabit, hold, use, occupy, possess, or enjoy any lot, ground, house, building, tenement, or hereditament within the limits of the town of Sunbury, for raising such sum or sums of money as the said Commissioners or a majority of them shall judge neces- sary for and towards carrying this act into execution : and in case of a refusal or neglect to pay such rate or assess- ment, the same shall be levied and recovered by warrant of distress and sale of the offender's goods, under the hands and seals of the said Commissioners or a majority of them, or under the hand and seal of any justice of the peace for the County of Liberty." The concluding section appointed such Commissioners superintendents of pilotage for the port of Sunbury, and invested them with the power and authority of Justices " so far as to keep the peace and preserve good order in the said toAvn." By the act of December 12th, 1804,* it was provided that the election of Commissioners should occur annually on the first Monday of August, and be held in the Sunbury Academy. The Justices of the Peace of Liberty County having "neglected to hold an election for Commissioners for the * Clayton's Digest, p. 213. 212 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. town of Simbury, to the great iujuiy of said town," the Legislature on the 2cl of December, 1805," directed the Justices of the Inferior Court of Liberty County " to call an election for that purpose, giving ten days notice of the same at the most public place in the town." In case of failure, at any time thereafter, to elect Com- missioners on the day appointed, it was made the duty of the Inferior Court, when notified of the fact, to advertise an election. This is all the legislation appearing on the Statute books with reference to the government of the town of Sunbury. These Commissioners continued to hold office in a quiet way, looking after the police and order of the town, until about the year 1825, when elections went by default, and such of the citizens as remained, by common consent man- aged their premises each after his own fashion, having the taller weeds in the streets and along the Bay " chopped down " at irregular intervals, and permitting the cows and the Bermuda grass to strive for the mastery in the lanes and upon the common. In 1801 Sunbury was described as " a seaport in Liberty County, favoured with a safe and convenient harbour," as being "a very pleasant, healthy place," and promising without doubt to become "a port of commercial conse- quence." "It is resorted to," says Sibbald, "by many persons during the Summer months ; it has an Academy under an able instructor, "t The most famous institution of learning in Southern Georgia, for many years, was the Sunbury Academy. It was established by an act of the Legislature assented to Clayton's Digest, p. 243. t " Notes and Observations on the Pine Lands of Georgia," &c., p. 65. Augusta, 1801. SUNBURY. 213 the lirst of Februar}-, 1788.* Abiel Holmes, Jaiues Dim- wody, Jolin Elliott, Gideon Dowse, and Peter Winn were nominated in the act as Commissioners. To them, or a majority of them, was authority given to sell at public sale, and upon previous notice of thirty days in one of the gazettes of the State, any confiscated property within the county of Liberty to the amount of 1,000. This sum, when realized, was to be l)y them expended in the con- struction of a building suitable for the purposes of the Academ}^ Each Commissioner was required to execute a bond, in favor of the Governor of Georgia, in the penalty of 1,000, conditioned for the faithful performance of the trust. In 1803 the number of Commissioners was increased to seven, but two years afterwards the Legislature directed a return to the original number, which was five.t As late as December 4tli, 1811, the Legislature directed a grant and conveyance to the Commissioners of Sunbury Academy, for the sole use and benefit of that institution, of one-third of a tract of land adjoining Sunbury, known as the Distillery Tract ; the same having been confiscated as the estate of Roger Kellsall, and being then the prop- erty of the State. The administration of the affairs of this academy dur- ing the long course of its valuable existence appears at all times to have been conducted by its trustees with prudence and skill. Certain it is that until the marked decadence of Sunbury this institution maintained an en- viable reputation, and attracted scholars in no inconsid- erable numbers from various portions of the State, and even from sister States. The teacher whose name is for * Watkins' Digest, p. 380. t Clayton's Digest, pp. 115, 24G. 214 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. the longest period and most notably associated with the management of this Academy, and who did more than all others to establish a standard of scholarship and main- tain rules of stud}' and discipline unusnal in that period and among these peoples, was the Reverend Dr. Wilham McWhir, Great was the obligation conferred upon the youths of Southern Georgia, for certainly two genera- tions, by this competent instructor and rigid disciplina- rian. A native of Ireland, a graduate of Belfast College, and licensed to preach by the Presbytery of that city, he came to America in 1783 and settled in Alexandria, Virginia. There, for ten years he was the Principal of the Academy of which General Washington was a trustee. He was fre- quently a guest at Mount Vernon, enjoying the hospitality of that noted mansion. On one occasion while he was dining with the family. General Washiu^jjton, as his custom was, asked the usual blessing. Mrs. Washington, somewhat surprised that Mr. McWhir had not been invited to do this, remarked to General Washington, " You forgot that we had a clergyman at table with us to-day." " No, madam," he replied, " I did not forget. I desire clergymen, as well as all others, to see that I am not a graceless man." About 1793 he removed to Sunbury where he became the Principal of the Academy and, for nearly thirty years, made it the leading institution of learning in this entire region. A thorough Greek, Latin, and English scholar, an uncompromising observer of prescribed regulations, and a firm believer in the virtue of the birch as freely applied in those days in the English and Irish schools in which he had received his training, he was a terror to all dolts and delin- quents. To the studious and the ambitious, he always proved himself a generous instructor, full of suggestion and aUNBURY. 215 encouragement. The higher branches of mathematics were also taught ; and, as a preparatory school, this institution, under his guidance, had no superior within the limits of the State. The average attendance was al)out seventy. Pupils were attracted not only from Liberty, but also from the adjacent counties of Chatham, Bryan, Mcintosh, and Glynn. Some came from even greater distances. Two generations sat at the feet of this venerable preceptor. Fathers and sons in turn responded to his nod, and feared his frown. Although " A man severe lie was, and stern to view," so impartial was he in the support of whatever was just and of good report, and so competent and thorough as a teacher, that for more than a quarter of a century his numerous pupils found in him, above all others, their mentor, guide, and helper in the thorny paths of knowledge. Strongly did he impress his character and influence upon the generations in which he lived, and his name and acts are even now well rememliered. The evening of his days was spent, as inclination prompted, at the residences of his old scholars, by whom a cordial welcome was always extended. That welcome was recognized by him as peculiarly genuine and agreeable when accompanied by a generous supply of buttermilk and a good glass of wine. The latter might be dispensed with : a failure to provide the former was, in his eyes, an unpardonable breach of hospitality, and materially impaired the comfort of his sojourn, and the tranquility of the venerable guest. Among the other teachers at this Academy may be men- tioned Mr. James E. Morris, the Kev. Mr. Lewis, the Rev. Mr. Shannon, the Rev. Mr. Thomas Goulding, Uriah Wil- cox, Rev. Mr. John Boggs, Captain William Hughes, Mr. 216 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. C. G. Lee, Kev. A. T. Holmes, Rev. S. G. Hillyer, Major John Winn, Mr. W. T. Fecay, and Mr. Oliver W. Stevens. The building a large two stor}- and a half double wooden house, about sixty feet square and located in King's Square, was pulled down and sold some time about the year 1842. As early as 1797 it being manifest that the population of the town was steadily decreasing, and that its commercial importance could not be reestablished, it was resolved by a large majority of the citizens of Liberty that Sunbury, the then seat of justice, was inconveniently situated for con- ducting the public business, and that North New Port Bridge was the most eligible location for the Court House and Jail. Matthew McAllister, Esq. had very generously oflfered to convey in fee simple, for public uses, a piece of ground two hundred and thirty feet in length and one hundred and fifty feet in width, situated near "the Bridge," without "price or consideration other than a wish on his part to promote the growth of the town of Riceborough and benefit the inhabitants thereof." The middle and upper portions of the county had by this time the con- trolling vote in public matters, and the Legislature was memorialized, in opposition to the feebler will of the resi- dents of Sunbury and its vicinity, to authorize a removal of the seat of justice. Accordingly, on the 1st of February, 1797, an act was passed appointing Thomas Stevens, Daniel Stewart, Peter Winn, Joel Walker, and Henry Wood, Com- missioners to superintend the admeasurement of the land, off"ered by Mr. McAllister, receive the titles therefor, and erect thereon and keep in repair a Court House and Jail for the County of Liberty. The act further provided that after its passage " all courts and elections heretofore held, and all public business heretofore transacted at said town of Sun- SUNBURY. 217 bury, should be held and transacted at the said town of Riceborough," to which place the County offices and records were to be removed.* Riceborough was a more convenient point for shipping to Savannah tjie rice, cotton, and agricultural products of the County, and was much more central for the facile con- vocation of the citizens and the transaction of public busi- ness. Suubury, however, still remained the favorite resort of the wealthier planters during the summer months, and maintained a permanent population of perhaps four hun- dred. The hurricane of 1804, with its wild devastations, begat a sense of insecurity in the minds of not a few dwellers on the coast, and to some extent diminished the population of the town. Soon afterwards, Bermuda grass began to overspread the bluff and cover, with its deep mat, the streets and lanes. With its importation the health of the place became sensibly affected. Chills and high grades of billions fever grew frequent in the fall of the year, and from time to time removals occurred to healthier localities. Many citizens still clung to their old homes rendered so pleasant by the refreshing sea-breezes and the never-failing stores of the waters and the orchards, and Sunbury for many years continued to be the abode of culture, hospi- tality, and ease. Then came the hurricane of 1824 blowing down out-houses, bearing away fences, bringing in the sea in great masses, and carrying fear to many, and even death to some who resided at exposed points. The wild indigo disappeared more rapidly than ever, and the dark Bermuda grass asserted its dominion on every hand. From the numerous cattle accustomed to feed upon its commcm and wander through its streets and lanes, and from the refuse *See Watkins' Digest, p. 61. 28 218 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. of the to^v^l, now no longer new, the original sandy soil became saturated with fertilizing matter, and grew rich. Thence, under the heat of autumnal suns, year by year rose exhalations annually more and more prejudicial to health. Chills and fevers were more frequent, and Sunbury proved less and less attractive as a summer resort. In 1829 Sher- wood describes the town as having " a flourishing academy, a house of worship for the Baptists, twenty dwelling houses, two stores, three offices, and a population of one hundred and fifty."" Ten years before, the Sunbury Female Asylum had been incorporated by the Legislature of Georgia.t Supported by the generous charities of kind hearted women, it never en- jo^-ed a vigorous existence, and after some years suffered a languishing death. Although by resolutions adopted on the 18tli of November, 1812, and the 12th of November, 1813, the Legislature pro- vided for stationing troops in the counties of Bryan, Liberty, Mcintosh, Glynn, and Camden, for the protection of the sea-coast of Georgia, it does not appear that any permanent detail was made for Sunbury. The fort, however, was again placed in tolerable condition, the planters furnishing the labor requisite for cleaning out the ditch, strengthening the parapet, and mounting such guns as there remained and were deemed trustworthy. A few light pieces were obtained from Savannah and added to the armament. Such gun- carriages as were manufactured in the county were made by Jonathan Goulding, of Taylor's Creek. Not a shot, how- ever, was fired from the fort during the war of 1812-1815. Although British vessels of .war were constantly upon Gazetteer of the state of Georgia. Philailoliihiii, 1H29. t Lamar's Digest, i>. 81. SUNBURY. 219 the coast, and the smoke of merchantmeu captured, robbed, and burnt by them was on several occasions seen from Sunburj, the enemy never ascended Midway river. A company composed of the citizens of the town and its vicinity, numbering some forty men and commanded by the honorable John A. Cuthbert, and another company con- sisting of the larger boys then students at the Sunbury Academy, and under the command of Captain [afterwards Brigadier General] Charles Floyd, were formed for local defense, drilled at regular intervals, and held themselves in readiness to act as occasion might require. Besides these, there were then three volunteer companies in Liberty County : the Liberty Independent Troop, Cap- tain Joseph Jones, and two infantry companies, com- manded respectively by Captains Robert Quarterman and John Winn. " The Guards," under Captain Winn, were at one time stationed at Hardwick, in Bryan County. After his defeat at Point Peter, Captain Jones' cavalry company and the Ritie company of Captain Quarterman were ordered to the rehef of Major Messias. They were for some time on duty at Darieu. The militia of the County being well organized and efficiently officered, was largely engaged in maintaining a careful watch along the coast. In this service assistance was rendered by barges and cutters from the American Navy, which patrolled Midway river and the adjacent inlets, and not infrequently established their headquarters at Sunbury. The " Committee of Safety " for Liberty County, during the war, consisted of General Daniel Stewart, Wil- ham Fleming, John Winn, John Stacy, John Elliott, John Stevens, and Joseph Law. These gentlemen were author- ized to take general charge of the local defense, and to call 220 THE DEAD TOWT^S OF GEORGIA. upon the citizens of tlie County for such labor as appeared necessary. In case of a refusal on the part of any one to respond to the requisition, they were instructed to advertise the name of such delinquent in the most frequented places, that he might be held up to public contempt " for having disgraced the character of the citizen and the patriot." This Committee assured General C. C. Pinckney of their ability and willingness to repair and garrison the Fort at Sunbury, and made requisition upon him for two 18-pounder guns and a suitable supply of ammunition. In its re- modeled condition, the fortification at Sunbury received at the hands of the Committee of Safety a new name, " Fort Defence." As being more easily defended, and re- quiring a smaller garrison, General Pinckney suggested the erection of a tower for the protection of Sunbury. This project, however, was never consummated. The last vessel of any moment, which visited the town, was a Swedish brig which, in 1814, came in and conveyed away a load of cotton. Mr. James Holmes was the last Collector of the port ; and for many years prior to his death the office was a mere sinecure. Subsequently a Surveyor was appointed by the General Government whose principal duty was to sign blank reports and draw his quarterly salary. The last person who held this office was the genial Colonel William Maxwell. Until 1833, the Liberty Independent Troop, the oldest volunteer military organization within the limits of Georgia except the Chatham Artillery, celebrated the fourth of July each year at Sunbury. This company was then the guest of the town, and the recipient of ever}' welcome and hospitality. The morning was spent in military ex- ercises, in contentions at the head, ring, and target, and SUNBURY. 221 the afternoon was crowned with a public dinner replete with good cheer and patriotic speeches. This annual parade was the event of the year in that quiet community. On such occasions the U. S. Revenue Cutters stationed on the coast would generally come up to the town by special invitation, and participate in the festivities. The summer retreats established at Jonesville, Fleming- ton, Hinesville, and Dorchester, compassed the depopulation of the old town. Without trade, destitute of communica- tions, and visited more and more each season with fevers, Suubury, for nearly thirty years, has ceased to exist save in name. Its squares, lots, streets, and lanes have been converted into a corn field. Even the bricks of the ancient chimneys have been carted away. No sails whiten the blue waters of Midway river save those of a miserable little craft employed by its owner in conveying terra})ins to Savannah. The old cemetery is so overgrown with trees and brambles that the graves of the dead can scarcely be located after the most diligent search. Fort Morris is enveloped in a wild growth of cedars and myrtle. Academy, churches, market, billiard room, wharves, store-houses, resi- dences, all gone ; only the bold Bermuda covered bluff and the beautiful river with the green island slumbering in its embrace to remind us of this lost town. A stranger pausing here would find no trace of the past once full of hfe and importance, but now existent only in the skeleton memories which redeem place and name from that oblivion which sooner or later is the common lot of all things human. The same bold bluff, the same broad expanse of marshes stretching onward to the confines of the broad Atlantic. the same blue outlines of Colonel's island and the Bryan shore, the same sea-washed beach of St. Catherine, the 222 THE DEAD TOWN'S OF GEORGIA. same green island dividing the river as it ebbs and flows with ever restless tide, the same soft sea-breezes, the same bright skies, the same sweet voices and tranquil scene which nature gave and still perpetuates, but all else how changed ! Truly " oblivion is not to be hired." Blindly scattering her poppy she deals with places as with men, and they become as though they had not been. Strange that a town of such repute, and within the confines of a young and prosperous commonwealth, should have so utterly faded from the face of the earth ! " The garileu with its arbor gone. Ami gone the orchard green ; A shattered chimney stands alone. Possessor of the scene." It is Avith pleasurable sadness and filial reverence that we have brought together these fragmentary memories of a place once the abode of so much refinement, intelligence, hospitalitv and patriotism, the home of Lyman Hall and Button Gwinnett, signers of the Declaration of Independ- ence, of John Elliott and Alfred Cuthbert, United States Senators from Georgia, and of John A. Cuthbert, mem- ber of Congress, the birth-i)lace of William Law, the accomplished lawyer, upright judge, and courtly gentle- man, and of John E. Ward, the eloquent advocate, speaker of the House of Representatives, president of the Georgia Senate, and United States Minister to China, for some years the residence of Richard Howley and Nathan Brownson, Governors of Georgia, claiming intimate asso- ciation with the Reverend Moses Allen, Benjamin Baker, Colonels William and John Baker, General Daniel Stewart, Colonel J(5hn Mcintosh, and Major John Jones, patriots all, who risked fortune and life in support of the primal struggle for independence, the scene of the professional SUNBURY. 228 labors of Doctors Dnnwoodv, Alexander, and West, and numbering among its citizens clergymen, teachers, physi- cians, lawyers, merchants, and planters, whose influence was appreciated in their day and generation, and whose names, if here repeated, would challenge respect and veneration. Nature survives, but nearly all the rest is shadow. In this humid soil so fecund with vegetation, neglected grave- stones, covered with brambles and overturned by envious forest trees, "tell truth scarce forty years." V. HARDWICK. During his tour of inspection in 1755, Governor Reynolds was so much pleased with the natural advantages of the Great Ogeechee river, that he selected a bluff upon its right bank, some fourteen miles from the sea, as a loca- tion for a new town, which, in honor of his relative the Lord High Chancellor of England, he named Hardwick. In his letter to the Board of Trade he says : " Hardwicke has a charming situation, the winding of the river making it a peninsula; and it is the only tit place for the capital.* There are many objections to this town of Savannah being so, besides its being situated at the extremity of the prov- ince, the shoalness of the river, and the great height of the land, Avhich is very inconvenient in the loading and un- loading of ships. Many lots have already been granted in Hardwicke, but only one house is yet built there; and as the province is unable to be at the expence of erecting the necessary pul)lic buildings, and the annual sum of 500 allowed for erecting and repairing pul)lic works, entertain- *To Mr. G. W. J. DeRenne *re we indebted for the following memoranda from H. M. Public, Record Office, Gcortjia, Vol. 35, B. T., touching the primal settlement, and naming of Hardwick : "May I'i, 17.H. The Neck of Laud called the Elbow on Great Ogeechee River which (on the 10th Day of this Mouth) they had named George-Town." "4 Feb., ITS."). His Excellency was pleased (with the approbation of the Board) to name the Town lately laid out at a Place commonly called the Elbow on Great Ogeechee River, Hardwick." " MinuUs of tlie Proceedinys of tlic Governor in Council." iflAKDWICK. 225 ing Indians, and other incidental expenses being insuffi- cient for all those purposes, I am in hopes your Lordships will think proper to get a sufficient sum allowed for erect- ing a Court-House, an Assembly-House, a Church, and a Prison at Hard wick; which will be such an encourage- ment to private people to build there as will soon make it fit for the seat of government to the universal benefit of the province."'^ Upon the agitation of this project to transfer the capi- tal of the colony from Savannah to the Great Ogeechee,t twenty-seven lots were quickly taken up in the town of Hardwick, and twenty-one thousand acres of land in its vicinity were granted to various parties who favored and promised to develop the enterprize. DeBrahm proposed that the place should be fortified by the erection of three polygons, six hundred feet each, and three detached bastions, to be armed with twenty-five cannon ; and suggested a garrison of one hundred and fifty men4 The Home Government neglecting to furnish the neces- sary funds, and Governor Reynolds being without the means requisite to compass the contemplated change, his scheme of transferring the seat of government to Hard- wick was never consummated, and the town, deprived of its anticipated dignity and importance, developed simply into a little trading village adapted to the convenience of *Boarfl of Trade. V. 1G7. Stevens' History of Georgia, vol. i, pp. 405, 40G. New York, 1847. White's Histoi'ical Collections of Georgia, p. 1.S3. New York, 1855. tThis river was then called the Great Hooohechie, which responds more nearly to its original Indian name than the appellation subsequently adopted. t See Plans and Elevations of the Forts necessary in Georgia, forwarded with Governor Reynolds' letter of the 5th of January, 175G, and now of file in the Public Record OfiSce, London; Maps B. T., vol. xiii. No. 14. 29 226 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. the few who there located and cultivated lands in the vicinity. 1^ By DeBrahm^ it was reckoned among the five sea-port towns of the province. Although for many years a port of entry, its commerce was wholly domestic and coastwise, being chiefly confined to the conveyance of the products of the region, in small vessels, to Savannah, and the trans- portation, in return, of such articles and supplies as were needed Hy the planters. By the act of the 15th of March, 1758,t dividing Geor- gia into eight parishes, " the town of Hardwick and district of Ogechee on the south side of the river Great Ogechee, extending north west up the said river as far as the lower Indian trading path leading from Mount Pleasant, and southward from the town of Hardwick as far as the swamp of James Dunham, including the settlements on the north side of the north branches of the river Midway, with the islands of Ossabaw, and tThe design of transferring the Capital of the Colony from Savannah to Hardwick, conceived by Governor Reynolds, was adhored to by his siiccessor. Governor Ellis. "The depth of water in the river, its more central position, its greater distance from Charleston the proximity to which, he argued, restricted the commerce of Savannah the convenience of its harbour as a naval station, and the fertility of its adjacent lauds, were the principal motives which operated with him to enforce the plan suggested by his predecessor. As a conseiiuence of clinging to this scheme of removal. Governor Reynolds had neglected repairing the public buildings of Savannah, and its inhabitants had ceased enlarging and beautifying a town so soon to be deserted. The Filature wa.s out of repair, the Church was so decayed that it was only kept from falling down by surrounding it with props, and the prison 'was shocking to humanity.' ' The removal of the Seat of Government to Hardwicke, which had received the favorable notice of former Governors, was discouraged by Sir James Wright, who argued tliat if the object of a removal was to obtain a more central position, Hardwicke was too near : while, on the other hand, a removal there would be very disadvantageous to the present capital which wa-s conveniently settled for intercourse with the Indians and for trade with South Carolina. The project was therefore abandoned, and the attention of the Assembly was directed to enlarging and strengthening the City which Oglethorpe had founded." Stevens' History of Georgia, vol. i, p. 133. Vol. ii, p. 19. History of the Province of Georgia, &c., p. 2.'). Wornisloe, 1849. t Marbtiry and Crawford's Digest, p. 1.51. HAKDWICK. 227 from the head of the said Dunham's swamp in a nortli west line," were declared a parish by the name of St. Philip. In 1786* regulations were prescribed for the inspection of Tobacco at a warehouse to be erected at Hardwick. By an Act, assented to on the 19th of December, 1793,t a new County was laid off from Chatham, and, in honor of a venerable patriot,:}; was called Bryan. The legislature w^iich passed this Act constituted John Wereat, Robert Holmes, James McGillivray, WilUam Clark, Simmons Maxwell, Thomas Collier, and Joseph Stiles, Commissioners for the town and commons of Hardwick, with power, upon three months' notice pubhshed in the Georgia Gazette, to cause a survey to be made, as nearly as possible, in conformity to the original plan of the place. This survey they were required to record in the office of the Surveyor of Br^-an County ; and also in the office of the Surveyor General of the State. By the second section of the Act these Commissioners were directed to sell at public vendue, to the highest bidder, at such time and place as they should deem best, and after published notice of six weeks in the Georgia Gazette, any vacant lots in the town, and any lots which should have become vested in the State of Georgia, reserving such only as might be proper for public uses. The proceeds arising from these sales were to be primaril}' apphed to the erection of a Court House and Jail ; and, if any balance re- mained in the hands of the Commissioners, it was to be ex- pended in building an Academy. Within three months after * Watkin'8 Digest, p. a:J9. tMarbury and Crawford's Digest, p. 167. t Jonathan Bryan. Careful search fails to disclose a map of this survey either among the records of Bryan County, or in the State Archives. 22S THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. the completion of such sales these Commissioners were to make full return to the State Treasurer of the number of lots sold, the price which each brought, and of the application of the funds realized. On the 23rd of December, 1791,* Hardwick was again designated, by special legislative enactment, as one of the points in Georgia for the erection of a public ware-house, and the inspection and shipment of tobacco. Eight years afterwardst the Justices of the Inferior Court of Bryan County were authorized to lease, from time to time, and for a term not exceeding seven years, the common of Hardwick and the glebe lands of the County, and apply the rents and profits therefrom arising to the repair and improvement of the County roads and bridges. Although the Act of 1793 appointed Commissioners and provided for the erection of a County Court House and Jail at Hardwick, it does not appear that the contem- plated buildings were ever constructed. But few terms of the Superior Court were held at this place. As early as 1797 the General Assembly of Georgia:}: authorized the Justices of the Inferior Court of Bryan County to make permanent seat of the public buildings "at the Cross- Koads about two miles from Ogechee bridge, or at any other place within half a mile of the said Cross-Eoads." For this purpose they were empowered to purchase land not exceeding two acres in extent. There the public business was transacted, until, in 1814, the Legislature was induced to sanction the selection of * Marbury and Crawford's Digest, pp. 544, 546. tldeni., p. IfiO. t Marbury and Crawford's Digest, p. 174. Lamar's Digest, p. '211. HARD WICK. 229 a new site more central in its location and more con- venient of access to the inhabitants who had multiplied in the upper portion of the County. Godhilf Smith, Henry Sherman, James Martin, Zachariah Wells, and Luke Man were designated as Commissioners to sell the old lot and buildings at the cross-roads, and purchase in behalf of the County a parcel of ground at the new site to be chosen at or near Mansfield, on the Canouchee river, and superintend the erection thereon of new pubHc buildings. Thus, instead of becoming the Capital of Georgia, Hard- wick soon ceased to be even the County-town of Bryan County. In Sibbald's "Notes and Observations on the Pine Lands of Georgia,"* &c., written in 1801, we find the following notice of this village : " Hardwick, situated near the mouth of Ogeechee river in Bryan County, the navi- gation being good, and having an extensive river running through a fertile country, bids fair to arrive at some con- siderable degree of Importance." This promise was never fulfilled. From the best information we can obtain we are per- suaded that the poT)ulation of Hardwick probabl}-, at no time, exceeded one hundred souls. In 1824 Mr. Alexander Netherclift was the only resident ; and Sherwood, in his Gazetteer of the State of Georgia for 1829,t speaks of Hardwick simply as "a cluster of houses in Bryan." Among those who, from time to time, were iuhal)itants of the place, may be mentioned Mr. Clark, Dr. Ward, Mr. Mifilen, Dr. John Jenkins, Dr. Anthony Benezet, Dr. T. J. Charlton, Dr. Louis Turner, and Mr. WilHam Savage. The * Page 65. Augusta, 1801. t Page 116. 230 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. commerce of Hardwick was never large, and was con- ducted by means of small craft plying between it and Sa- vannali. Sloops and schooners sufficed, with occasional trips, to convey to a market the agricultural products of the neighborhood, and in return to bring back plantation supplies. After the removal of the public buildings from the Cross- Roads, and upon the completion of the causeway through the swamp and of the bridge over the Great Ogeechee river, thereby establishing immediate and convenient com- munication by land with Savannah, the trade of Hard- wick declined, and its small stores, abandoned of their keepers, lapsed into decay. The bluff u])()n which the town was located rises about fourteen feet above the level of the Great Ogeechee, and is distant some two miles from Genesis' Poiut, to which Fort McAJlister gave such heroic memories during the Confederate struggle for independence. In front, stretching to the north, is a point of land or peninsula. On the west the fresh waters of the Great Ogeechee river lave the Hard- wick bluff, and then treading northward, and at right angles to the general course of the stream, by a graceful bend to the east embrace the northern extremity of the peninsula. Again turning to the south, the river reaches the eastern bluff of the town, where, curving gently, it pursues its course, emptying through Ossabaw sound into the Atlantic Ocean. This peninsula in front of the town constitutes a dividing line between the fresh and brackish waters of the river. At the point where it springs from the bluff it is less than a quarter of a mile wide, although a journey of several miles is requisite to complete its circuit by water. HARD WICK. 231 From the bluff, backward toward the south, extends a high and dry plain adapted for the location of a town. The surroundings, however, were unhealthy during the Summer and Fall months, and there was nothing to encourage popu- lation, or ensure the continuance and prosperity of the settlement. In 1866 a feeble effort was made to revive the town of Hard wick ; and the Georgia Legislature on the 21st of March of that year passed an act the leading provisions of which are as follows : After reciting the fact that the Commissioners of Hard- wick had long ago departed this life, that the site of the town and its common had been regranted by the State to private individuals, and suggesting the advisability that Hardwick should be reestablished for the better advance- ment of the industrial resources of the State, the Act ap- pointed Jacob M. Middleton, Thomas C. Arnold, William Patterson, Henry E. Smith, and John W. Magill, Commis- sioners, and authorized them to acquire by cession or pur- chase the toAvn of Hardwick and its common "not to exceed one hundred and fifty acres in extent." Ha^'ing obtained proper titles to the land, these Commissioners, or a majority of them, were directed to have the town of Hardwick surveyed and laid out into lots of such form and dimensions as they should deem fit. Plans of the town were to be by them filed in the office of the Clerk of the Superior Court of Bryan County, and in the office of the Surveyor General of the State. Full power was vested in them to sell the town lots, except such as they might determine to reserve for public uses. Upon completion of the survey, and upon filmg plans of the town in accordance with the requu-ements of 232 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. tlie Act, the Commissioners were authorized to select one of their number as an Intendant. Thereupon they were declared incorporated by the name and style of the " In- tendant and Commissioners of the town of Hardwicke," with power to make such by-laws and regulations for its good order and government as were not repugnant to the constitution and laws of Georgia, ami of the United States. Although fortified by this legislation, no action was taken by the Commissioners, three of whom are now dead. Hardwick exists only in name, and will probably never be vitalized into a municipal entity. VI. PETERSBURG, JACRSONBOROUGH, FRANGISVILLE, &C, &C. Near the close of a spring day in 1776 Mr. William Bar- tram, who, at the request of Dr. Fothergill, of London, had been for some time carefiillj studying the flora of Car- olina, Georgia, and Florida, forded Broad river just above its confluence with the Savannah, and became the guest of the commanding ofiicer at Fort James. This fort, which he describes as " a four-square stockade with saliaut bas- tions at each angle, mounted with a block-house, where are some swivel guns, one story higher than the curtains which are pierced with loop-holes, breast-high, and defended by small arms," was situated on an eminence in the forks of the Savannah and Broad, equidistant from those rivers and from the extreme point of land formed by their union. Fort Charlotta was located about a mile below on the left bank of the Savannah. The stockade of Fort James was an acre in extent. Within this enclosure were a substantial house for the commandant, officers' quarters, and barracks for the gar- rison, consisting of fifty rangers well mounted, and armed each with a rifle, two dragoon pistols, a hanger, a powder horn, a shot pouch, and a tomahawk.* For a distance of two miles the peninsula above the fort was laid out for a town called Dartmouth in honor of the Earl who had exerted his influence in procuring fi-om the Travels through North and South Carolina. Goorgia, kc, pp. 321, 322. London, 1792. 30 234 THE BEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. King a grant and special privileges in favor of the Indian Trading Company of Georgia. For the defense of the ter- ritory known as the New Purchase, had this fort been erect- ed and maintained. Dartmouth never realized the expectations which, in its infancy, had been formed for it. After a short and feeble existence it gave place to Petersburg which, during the tobacco culture in Georgia, attracted to itself a consider- able population and was regarded as a place of no little commercial importance. For the convenience of the early settlers of Eastern- Middle Georgia, Dionysius Ohver was, on the 3rd of Feb- ruary, 178G, authorized by the Legislature* to erect a warehouse on his land, lying in the fork between the Sav- annah and Broad rivers, for the inspection and storage of tobacco. With the location of this warehouse dates the commencement of the town of Petersburg. The cultivation of tobacco was then enlisting the atten- tion of many planters. In the lower counties of the State the production of silk had ceased to be remunerative, and the tillage and manipulation of indigo had not yielded the profits anticipated. Cotton was little grown. Many of the early inhabitants of the present counties of Elbert, Lincoln, Wilkes, and Oglethorpe, came from Virginia and brought with them not only a love for the weed, but a high appreciation of tobacco as an article of prime commercial value. The virgin lands of this region were found well adapted to its cultivation : and, as a consequence, this plant grew rapidly into general favor and proved the staj^le commodit}- or market 3rop of the farmers. As the existing laws of the State forbade * Watkins" Digest, p. 325. PETEKSBUEG, JACKSONBOROUGH, FRANCISVILLE, &C. 235 its exportation without previous inspection and the payment of specified fees, it became necessary to establish pubHc warehouses at convenient points where the inspection and storage of this article could be had. No hogshead or cask of tobacco could be shipped which did not bear the stamp of some "lawful inspector."* These inspectors were required to give bond for the faithful performance of their duties, and it was made obligatory upon them to attend continuously at their respective Avarehouses from the first of October to the first of August in each year. It was their duty carefully to inspect, weigh, receipt for, and stamp each hogshead delivered at the warehouse. The hogshead or cask was "not to exceed forty-nine inches in length, and thirty-one inches in the raising head." Its weight, when packed, was to be not less than nine hundred and fifty pounds nett. It was not customary in those primitive days to transport these hogsheads upon wagons. Vehicles of all sorts were scarce. The hogshead or cask being made strong and tight, and having been stoutly coopered, was furnished with a temporary axle and shaft, to which a horse was attached. By this means was it trundled to market or to the public warehouse. Water courses also were freely taken advantage of for the conveyance of tobacco. The location of this public warehouse at the confluence of the Broad and Savannah rivers proved most acceptable to the tiUers of the soil in this rich region, and speedily attracted merchants who, there fixing their homes, became purchasers of the tobacco when inspected, and in return sold to the planters such supplies as they needed. Petersburg soon assumed the proportions of a respectable village. It was regularly laid ofl' in town lots, with conve- See Watkins' Digest, p. Ui. 236 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. nient streets intersecting each other at right angles. The tobacco warehouses and shops were located as near the point formed b}^ the confluence of the rivers as the nature of the ground and the liability to overflow would permit. The residences were situated above, and occupied lots, each about three quarters of an acre in extent. In 1797 William Watkins secured from the Legislature* the right to establish upon his lots, 35 and 37, in the town of Petersburg, an extensive warehouse for the inspec- tion and storage of tobacco. Bj an actf of the General Assembly assented to No- vember 2Gth, 1802, eighteen of the principal citizens of the town were incorporated into a society " under the name and style of the Petersburg Union Society." The avowed objects of this association were the difi'usion of knowledge and the alleviation of want. It maintained an active ex- istence for some years and exerted a marked influence for good. On the first of December, 1802, | Eobert Thompson, Le- roy Pope, Richard Easter, Samuel Watkins, and John Ragland were appointed Commissioners of the town of Petersburg, and were charged with its "better regulation and government." They were to hold ofiice until the first Monday in January, 1804. Then, and on the first Mon- day in every January thereafter, the citizens entitled to vote for members of the General Assembly were required to choose by ballot five persons to act as Commissioners of the town. These Commissioners were invested "with full power and authority to make such by-laws and regula- tions, and to inflict or impose such pains, penalties, and Watkins' Digest, p. 658. t Clayton's Digest, p. 58. t Clayton's Digest, p. 92. PETERSBURG, JACKSONBOROUGH, FRANCISVILLE, &C. 237 forfeitures as in their judgment should be conducive to the good order and government of the said town of Peters- burg :" provided such by-hiws and reguhitions were not repugnant to the constitution and Laws of Georgia, and that the pains and penalties contemplated did not extend to life or member. Two years afterwards ^ the powers of these Commission- ers were materially enlarged, and they were directed to have a correct plat of the town and commons made by the County Surveyor and recorded in the office of the Clerk of the Superior Court of Elbert County. Speaking of Petersburg in 1800, Mr. George Sibbald says :t " In point of situation and commercial consequence it is second only to Augusta. * * It is a handsome, well built Town, and presents to the view of the astonished traveller, a Town which has risen out of the Woods in a few years as if by enchantment : It has two Warehouses for the Inspection of Tobacco." So long as the cultivation of tobacco engrossed the atten- tion of the planters in the circumjacent region, Petersburg continued to be a place of considerable commercial impor- tance. In the zenith of its prosperity it contained a dis- tributing post-office, a market place, a town-hall, several churches, and not less than forty stores and warehouses. Its population then has been estimated at between seven and eight hundred souls. During the earl}' part of the present century its trade was greater than that of Augusta, It is claimed that goods of a superior quality were then there sold, and in greater quantities, and at cheaper rates. A large and lucrative business was transacted by the Peters- * Clayton's Digest, p. 182. t " Notes and Observations on the Pine Lands of Georgia," ic, pp. G2, 63. Augusta. 1801. 238 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. burg boats, which, along the line of the Savannah river, constituted the favorite common carriers of passengers and goods. The existence of the town was due to the concen- tration at this point of the tobacco crop of a considerable area. The necessity for a rigid inspection of this product forced the planters to bring it here. With Petersburg the presence of this plant was emphatically the cause of popu- lation and the parent of trade. After inspection, most of it was purchased on the spot by merchants and speculators, who, from their full stores, supplied every need of the pro- ducers. Thence was it shipped to Augusta and Savannah. So soon, however, as the cotton plant began to assert its ascendency, the fortunes of the town commenced to wane. Eequuing no inspection, and capable of easy shipment from any convenient point, the cotton bales were sent to various bluffs along the river for transmission to the coast ; and thus it came to pass that with the discontinuance of the tobacco culture Petersburg dwindled away and died. Sickness, and the attractions of new and fertile fields in Alabama hast- ened its ruin : and now sunken wells and the mounds of fallen chimneys are all that attest the former existence of the tovna.. Its corporate limits are wholly included within the confines of one well-ordered plantation ; and extensive fields of corn and cotton have obliterated all traces of ware- house, shop, town-hall, church, and dwelling. Beneath the conserving shadows of tall trees which mark the outlines of the old cemetery on the left bank of Broad river may still be seen numerous graves, fresh and green when the town was replete with Ufe, but neglected and over- grown with brambles now that the village too is dead. PETERSBURG, JACKSONBOROUGH, FRANCISVTLLE, &C. 239 A few sleepy houses mark the spot where Lisbon,* with envious eye, in former years viewed across Broad river the rising fortunes of Petersburg ; and, beyond the Savannah, narrowly scanned the efforts made by Vienna to participate in the lucrative tobacco trade. Federal-Town, in Washington County, on the east bank of the Oconee, was another of these Tobacco villages. It perished so soon as the cultivation of cotton became general in the region, and its fort was no longer required as a pro- tection against the incursions of the Creeks. Deprived of the vitalizing influence of the tobacco trade, Harrisburgh, Edinborough, and other small towns desig- nated as sites for the inspection of this crop, speedily lapsed into disuse and decay. Not infrequently a change in the location of public build- ings dealt a death-blow to villages of moderate size and feeble support. Take, for example, the old town of Jack- SONBOROUGH, confirmed as the county seat of Screven county on the 15th of February, 1799.t As late as the 20th of December, 1823, an act X of the Legislature, passed for its incorporation, designated the Court House as the centre of the town, and. extended the corporate limits a half mile in every direction. Five years afterwards the "Jackson- borough Methodist Episcopal Chuich" was incorporated. The business of the county was, for some forty years and more, mainly transacted at this place. Here, too, for some *Tho original name of this village was the Town of Lincoln. See Sibbald's " Xotes and Observations on the Pine Lands of Georgia," &c., p. C3. Augusta, 1801. t Marbury and Crawford's Digest, p. 177. t Dawson's Digest, p. 450. Dawson's Digest, p. 109. 240 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEOKGlA. time, resided Mr, John Abbot, whose work upon the Lep- idopterous Insects of Georgia is still highly prized by the students of Natural History. Upon the removal of the public buildings to Sylvania in 1847, this place was robbed of all importance. It was speedily abandoned ; and now a few sherds of common pottery scattered over the surface of the ground are all that is left to remind the visitor that the tide of life was once here. For more than a quarter of a century Haetford was a thriving town and the capital of Pulaski county." When in 1837t the Court House and jail were transferred to Haw- kinsville, ruin and decay overtook the place, and at pres- ent there is little else save silence, desolation, and sea- shells on the abandoned Ocmulgee bluflf. Alarmed at the murders committed by the Cherokees, the Friends forsook their neat abodes above Augusta ; and, for quite a century, no memory of that primal settlement has been perpetuated in the neighborhood except by the " Quaker-Spring." Military posts, maintained for temporary purposes, event- ually fall into disuse and live only in history. We have already seen how the fortifications, erected for the protection of the southern frontier of the Colony, when the Spanish war-cloud had vanished returned to the dust from which they sprang. Rendered unnecessary by the overleaping tide of population some were transferred to the outer verge, Clayton's Digest, p. GOG. t Pamphlet Laws of 183G, p. 103. tETEKSBUKG, JACKSONBOROUGH, FRANCISYILLE, AC. 241 and these in turn were abandoned upon the assui-ed occu- pancy of the disputed territory. Fort Barrington, its mission ended, long ago crumbled into nothingness beside the yellow waters of the Alatamaha. By DeBrahm's plan and local memories is it preserved from utter oblivion. Forts Early, Gaines, Haivhlns, James, Lawrence, Perry, Scott, Wayne, and Wilkinson, and others, once potent for protection, and important in the military operations of the State, deserted alike by soldier and Indian have utterly perished, and the tillers of the soil run their peaceful furrows over areas once swept by their guns. What subsequently became the site of the little town of Francisyille, in Crawford County, was at first selected and used by Colonel Benjamin Hawkins as a convenient locality for the transaction of the important duties confided to him by Mr. Jefferson. Here, upon the left baiik of the Flint river, and on the line of what was afterwards the established route betM^een Macon and Columbus, he resided for a number of years : devoting his energies to the exe- cution of the trust devolved upon him as United States Agent to the Creek Indians, striving to ameh orate their condition, and by his judicious influence and management perpetuating amicable relations between them and the whites. During his occupancy of the Old Agency, as it came to be known, this place gave manifest indications of thrift and activity. A considerable plantation was formed, with residence, mills, work-shops, store-houses, and appur- tenances requisite for comfort, security, and the conduct of the business connected with this advanced post. Hither the Indians repaired for supplies at stated intervals. With 242 THE DEAD TOWJfS OP GEORGIA. them au extensive traffic was maintained. Aside from the performance of his official duties, Colonel Hawkins devoted much attention to rearing cattle and hogs. So extensive became his herd that at one time he is said to have pos- sessed not less than five hundred calves. The care of these animals, and the details of the agency furnished employ- ment *for many subordinates. The Flint river was utilized as a convenient dividing line to separate the grown kine from their j^oung. Across this stream a substantial bridge was constructed, with a gate at either end. This large stock of cattle and swine enabled him to entertain the Indians, Avho constantly visited him, with abundant al- though primitive hospitality, and materially assisted in per- petuating the kindly and wide-spread influence which he exerted over them." While he lived, his cattle brand was rigidly respected by the Red men ; although, soon after his death, if report be true, the Creeks, oblivious of former obligations, stole numbers of these cows and hogs. Col- onel Hawkins was a man of decided mark. To him does the State of Georgia owe a debt of special gratitude. His Sketch of the Creek Country* is a most valuable and in- teresting contribution. The French General Moreau who, while in exile, was for some time his guest, was so much impressed with his character and labors that he pronounced him one of the most remarkable men he had met in. America. "Under the faithful proconsular sway of Col. Hawkins," says Mr. Chappell,t " the Creek Indians enjoyed for sixteen years, unbroken peace among themselves and with their neighbors, and also whatsoever other blessings were possible to the savage state, which it was his study * Collections of the Georgia Historical Society, vol. ni, part i. Savannah, 1848. t Miscellauies of Georgia, part i, p. 67. Columbus, 1874. PETERSBURG, JACKSONBOKOUGH, FRANCISVILLE, AC. 243 gradually to ameliorate. To this end he spared no pains. Much was done to initiate, instruct, and encourage them in the lower and most indispensable parts of civilization. Pasturage was brought into use, agiiculture also, to some extent ; both together supplanting considerabl}- among them their previous entire reliance for food on hunting, fishing, and wild fruits. To the better and more secure modes of obtaining a livelihood which civilization offers, he st)ught to win them by example as well as by precept. He brought his slaves from North Carolina, and, under the right con- ceded to his office, he opened and cultivated a large jilan- tation at the Agency on Flint river, making immense crops of corn and other provisions. He also reared great herds of cattle and swine, and having thus alwaj^s abundance of meat and bread, he was enabled to practice habitually towards the Indians a profuse, though coarse hospitality and benevolence which gained their hearts and boimd them to him by ties as loyal and touching as those of old feudal allegiance and devotion." Here Colonel Hawkins died in 1816, and was buried on the wooded bluff overlooking the Flint river, a few hundred yards below the point of the present crossing. No stone marks his grave. Among the scattered and almost obHte- rated mounds in this lonely and forsaken cemetery is one more prominent than the rest. It may designate the precise place of his sepulture. For several years after the death of this prominent man, who gave impulse and direction to all about him, neglect and decay supervened. New life was infused into the set- tlement, however, by Francis Bacon, of Massachusetts, who, having married Jeffersonia, the youngest daughter of Col. Hawkins, established himself upon the site of the Old 244 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. Afjencij, about 1825, and founded the town of Francisville. Traffic with the surrounding country was freely invited. Being a man of means, of intelligence, and of enterprise, matters prospered. Other settlers, attracted by the pros- pect for gain, purchased lots of about an acre in extent and located themselves on both sides of the public road. Sev- eral dry goods and grocery stores, a wagon manufactory, a blacksmith shop, a drug store, a church, a public school, a tavern, and a post-office were in time built. From 1830 to 1850 the town had an average population of about one hundred whites. Much business was here transacted. Upon the completion of the railway running fi-om Macon to Columbus the resident merchants sought other and more convenient localities. Trade languished, was then wholly diverted, and the town speedily disappeared. Cotton fields now usurp the domain formerly occupied by the village. The traveler from the south as he crosses the Flint river, ascends a long rocky hill, and passes through a narrow lane on the top, discerns no traces of this dead town. The Old Agency, once so important in the early days of this sec- tion, exists only in tradition. Francisville, which was builded upon its ruins, has fallen into nothingness. Tall trees and a tangled undergrowth hide the graves of the dead, and there is little else save silence and forgetfulness. Even the earth-mound which covers the bones of the famous Colonel Benjamin Hawkins is incapable of positive recog- nition, and rests under the common oblivion which has overtaken all. VII. MISCELLANEOUS TOWNS, PLANTATIONS, &C. DeBralim in his History of the Province of Georgia* furnishes us with the following classification of the Towns in the Province : "Besides the Metropolis of Savannah upon Savannah Stream, 17 miles from the Sea, Are 4 Sea Port Towns, Hardwick upon Great Ogetchee Stream Sunbury upon Midway Stream Darian upon Alatamaha Stream Frederica 4 Towns upon navigable fresh water streams Brandon '*' upon little River, is navigable only to the Cataract above Augusta, 200 mOes from the Sea. Augusta upon Savannah Stream 150 miles from the Sea. Queensbury in the Fork of Lambert's River and Great Ogetchee Stream, 120 miles from the Sea.^*' Ebenezer upon Savannah Stream 57 miles from the Sea. 4 Villages of which two are upon a navigable River, * Wormsloe. 1849, pp. 25, 26. (a) Since Gov. Wright's Administration this Place (being deserted in Gov'r Reynolds" time by Edmond Grey) revived again under the name of Wrightsborouph inhabited by above 60 Families, and its Township contains about 200 Families all Quakers; they are indulged by the Gov'r; that no Person, but such as they approve, shall bo permitted to settle among them. (<() Queensbury is inhabited by about 70, and its Environs by above 200 Families mostly Irish, from which it is generally called the Irish Settlement. 246 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. Acton ] \ upon Vernon riiver Vernoubiirg ) I upon the Head of Vernon River." Higligate ) The enumeration contained in " Histoire et Commerce des Colonies Angloises dans I'Amerique Septentionale,"* is essentially similar: "On partage la Georgie en doux divisions. La Septentrionale comprend ; Savannah 1 Old-Ebenezer ~ New-Ebenezer \- Villes. Hampstead. Augusta J High-Gate. \- Villages. Abercorn. Skindwe La meridionale est moins peuplee, on n'y trouve que deux villes & un village. Frederica ] - Villes Barikmake New-Inverness j Savannah and Augusta still exist and are justly reckoned among the most opulent, beautiful, and attractive cities of the Empire State of the South. In their locations the judgment of the early Colonists has been sanctioned by the favorable experience of nearly a century and a half. New Inverness has given place to Darien which, amid shifting fortunes, is still supported by the lumber trade and the rice crop of the Alatamaha. Of the memories of Frederica, Sunbury, New and Old Ebenezer, Bethany, Hardwick, and Abercorn, we have already spoken ; and it remains for us in a few words to mention some smaller and insignificant towns, projected in the early days of the Colony, which have long since lost their identity I Village." p. 235. A. La Hayo, 1755. MISCELLANEOUS TOWNS, PLANTATIONS, &C. 247 amid the changes of population and the vicissitudes of ownership. Brandon may be recognized as still maintaining a feeble existence in the later village of Wrightsboro, although its original features and peculiarities have encountered essen- tial modifications. The founder of Brandon was Edmund Grey, a pretending Quaker, who came from Virginia with a number of followers. A man of strong will and marked influence, he was nevertheless a pestilent fellow, and, dur- ing Governor Reynolds' administration, was compelled to abandon his httle town. He subsequently formed a settle- ment on the neutral lauds lying between the Alatamaha and the St. Johns rivers. Thither flocked criminals, and debtors anxious to escape the just demands of their creditors.* Brandon on Little river was revived by Joseph Mattock, a Quaker, who having obtained for himself and friends a grant of forty thousand acres of land, called the town "Wkightsboro in honor of Governor Sir James Wright, who favored the establishment of the new colony. Mr. Mattock hospitably entertained Mr. William Bartram in 1773, by whom he is described as a public spirited man about seventy years of age, hearty, active, and presiding as the chief magistrate of the settlement.! We recall no special incidents in the history of this town. Its life was uneventful, and at present it can scarcely claim even a nominal existence. DeBrahm's History of the Province of Georgia, p. 30. Wormsloe, 1849. Stevens' History of Georgia, vol. i, pp. 406, 407. New York, 1847. t Travels Through North and South Carolina, Georgia, tzc, pp. 35, 30. Loudon, 1792. ^48 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. Between four aud five miles southwest of Savannah, as its limits were at first ascertained, and on rising ground, the village of High-gate was laid out in 1733. Twelve families, mostly French, were here located. A mile to the eastward the village of Hampstead was formed the same year, and peopled by twelve families, chiefly German. These settlers were engaged in gardening, and their prin- cipal business was to supply the inhabitants of Savannah with vegetables. Francis Moore, who visited these little towns in the spring of 1736, describes them as being " pretty," and says that the " Planters are very forward, having built neat Huts and clear'd and planted a great deal of Land." It would appear, however, that the prosperity of these villages was of short duration. We are informed that in 1740 but two families remained at High-gate, while Hamp- stead was entirely abandoned.* For the protection of the few families to whom a home at Thunderbolt had been assigned, a small fort was erected ; but as early as 1737 it had fallen into decay. On the north-east point of Skidoway island, ten families were placed and a fort built in 1734. This attempt at colo- nization proved so unsuccessful that four years afterwards the village had disappeared and the fortification Avas in a deserted and ruinous condition. * For furtlii^r notices of tln!se villafjes see ' Moore's Voyage to (rcorRia." p . IV2. London, 1744. "An Account Shewing the Proi^ress of the Colony of Georgia," &c., p. 35. Loudon, 1741. " A State of the Province of Georgia, attested upon Oath," &c., p. 10. London, 1742. " Extract of the Rev'd Mr. John Wesley's Journal," &c., p. 61. Bristol, n. d. "A True and Historical Narrative of the Colony of Georgia," &c., p. 109. Charles-Town, 1741. " An Impartial Entiuiry into th<- State and Utility of the Province of Georgia," &c., p. 51. lAiuduu, 1741. MISCELLANEOUS TOWNS, PLANTATIONS, &C. 249 A similar fatality attended the eflfort to plaut a colony of ten families near the hght-house on Tybee island the year after Savannah was settled. So long as Fort Argyle was garrisoned, the ten free- holders who estabhshed their plantations in its vicinity strove to render their cultivation profitable : but, upon the withdrawal of the Hangers, eight of them removed, and within a short time all signs of industry disappeared. The labors of the Scottish colonists at Joseph's Town were prosecuted but a few years, and that settlement was quickly numbered among the failures which occurred on every hand. Near fort St. Andrew on the north-east extremity of Cum- berland island grew up the village of Barrimacke, which, about 1740, embraced some twenty-four famihes. When General Oglethorpe's regiment was withdrawn from the southern fi'ontier, this tow^n speedily died, and for more than a century all traces of its former existence have been entu'ely wanting. Similar is the history of the German village of gardeners and fishermen which stood near the southern end of the military road connecting Frederica with St. Simons. Of the meagre and uneventful lives of Acton and Vernon- burgh on Vernon river, of Goshen and Bethany near the Savannah, of Williamsburgh, and Fort Barrington on the Alatamaha, and of Queensbury on the Great Ogeechee, we feel scarce called upon to speak. Were we not dealing exclusively with the dead towns of Georgia, we might enume- rate others which, in their moribund condition and present 32 250 THE DEAD TOWNS OP GEORGIA. dilapidation, perpetuate little more than the names and sites which they at first received. Of the more prominent plantations established at an early date we may mention those of Colonel Cochran, Captain Gascoin, and Lieutenant Horton on St. Simon's island, of Messrs. Carr and Carteret on the main, of Sir Francis Bathurst, "Walter Augustine, Kobert Williams, Patrick Tail- fer, Jacob Matthews, Mr. Cooksey, and Captain Watson on the Savannah river, of Mr. Houstoun on the Little Ogee- chee, of the Messrs. Sterlmg on the Great Ogeechee river, of Messrs. Noble Jones, Henry Parker, and John Fallow- field on the Isle of Hope, of Oxtead, the settlement of Mr. Thomas Causton on Augustine creek, of the Hermitage, the abode of Hugh Anderson, of Mr. Thomas Christie, of the twenty German families sent over by Count Zinzen- dorf, of Mr. Wilham Williamson, of the Trustees, com- mitted to the care of William Bradley, of Mr. Thomas Jones, and of president William Stephens at Bewlie. This last plantation consisted of a grant of five hundred acres at the mouth of Vernon river, and was confirmed by General Oglethorpe on the 19th of April, 1738. Of this place Mr. Stephens, on the 21st of March, 1739, writes as follows : " I was now called upon to give the Place a Name ; and there- upon naturally revolving in my Thoughts divers Places in my native Country, to try if I could find any that had a Resemblance to this ; I fancied that Bewlie, a Manor of his Grace the Duke of Montague in the Neio Forest, was not unlike it much as to its Situation ; and being on the Skirts of that Forest, had Plenty of large Timber growing every- where near ; moreover a fine Arm of the Sea running close by, which parts the Isle of Wight from the main Land, and makes a beautiful Prospect ; fiom all which Tradition tells MISCELLANEOUS TOWNS, PLANTATIONS, AC. 251 US it took its Name and Avas antiently called Beaulieu, though now vulglarly Betolie : only by leaving out the a in the first Syllable, and the u in the end of the last.""- This is the true account of the original cession and naming of that attractive bluif rendered memorable in after years by the debarcation of Count D'Estaing on the 12th of September, 1779, and by the erection of formidable bat- teries for the protection of this approach to the city of Savannah during the Confederate struggle for independence. These plantations, and others which might be enumerated, have, loitli a single excejjtion, so far as our information extends, lost all traces of primal occupancy and passed into the ownership of strangers. We allude to the beautiful plantation of Wormsloe on the Isle of Hope. Of this interesting spot we have the following description penned by an intelligent visitor who made his observations in 1743. He was then, in an open boat, journeying towards Savannah from St. Catharine's island, where a short season had been spent in the companionship of the friendly Indians who were dwellers there. " We arrived in somewhat more than two Days at the Narroivs where there is a kind of Manclie- colas Fort for their Defence, garrison'd from Wormsloe, where we soon arriv'd. It is the settlement of Mr. Jojies 10 Miles S. E. of Savaimah, and we could not help observ- ing as we passed, several very pretty Plantations. " Wormsloe is one of the most agreeable Spots I ever saw, and the Improvements of that ingenious Man are very extraordinary : He commands a Company of Marines who are quarter'd in Huts near his House, which is also a tol- erable defensible Place with small Ai-ms. From the House *" A Journal of the Procuediugs iu Georgia," &c., vol. U, pp. 166, 318, 319. Loudon, 1742. 252 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. there is a Yista of near tliree Miles cut tliro' the Woods to Mr. AYhitefield's Orphan House, which has a very fine Effect on the Sight."* After conckiding his visit to Savannah, this gentleman " set out in one of Captain Jones's Scout Boats mann'd by a Party of his Marine Company, and had a very pleasant Passage to Fort Frederick on the Island of Port Royal in South Carolina."f Noble Jones, the proprietor of Wormsloe, was a Lieu- tenant commanding thirty men, volunteers and enlisted fi'om Savannah, in General Oglethorpe's expedition against St. Augustine. He was subsequently assigned to the com- mand of a scout and guard boat and a company of marines to watch the " Narrows at Skedoway " and the " Inlets of the near adjoining Sea ;" more especially " those near him of Wassaw and Ussuybaw, lest any surprise should hap- pen." His guard-boat was armed " with a small swivel Gun " in the bow ; and, in February, 17J:1, upon the appear- ance of a Spanish Privateer on the coast, " One of our smartest Pieces of Cannon," says Stephens, " carrying a four Pound Ball, and well mounted," was delivered to him to assist in the coast defense.:]: At Wormsloe may still be seen the remains of the Tabby Fortification constructed by Captain Noble Jones. The outline of the work and its general features are well pre- served, and constitute, perhaps, the most unique and inter- esting historical ruin on the Georgia coast. With all its wealth of magnificent live-oaks, palmettoes, magnohas, and cedars ; with its quiet, gentle views, balmy London Magazine for 1745, p. 552. t Idem. p. 604. t Stephens' Journal of Proceedings, vol. ii, pp. 472, 492, 497. Idem, vol. ui, pp. 13, 16, 17, 124, 206. London, 1742. MISCELLANEOUS TOWNS, TLANTATIONS, &G. 253 airs, soft sunlight, inviting repose, and pleasant traditions, this beautiful residence has at all times remained in the possession and ownership of the descendants of the original proprietor. Mr. G. W. J. DeRenne now guards the sj)ot with all the tender care and devotion of a most loyal son, and to the memories of the past has added literary and cultivated associations in the present, which impart new charms to the name of Wonnsloe. In this youthful country, so careless of and indifferent to the memories of other days, so ignorant of the value of monuments and the impressive lessons of antiquity, where no law of primogeniture encourages in the son the conservation of the abode and heirlooms of his fathers, where new fields, cheap lands, and novel enterprises at remote points are luring the loves of succeeding genera- tions fi'om the gardens which delighted, the hoary oaks which sheltered, and the fertile fields which nourished their ancestors, where paternal estates are constantly alienated at public and private sales, landed acquisitions are placed at the mercy of speculative strangers, and family treasures, established inheritances, and old home- steads are seldom preserved. Thus it comes to pass that ancestral graves lie neglected, abodes once noted for refinement, intelligence, virtue, and hospitality lose their identity in the ownership of strangers, and tradi- tions worthy of transmission, are forgotten amid the selfish engagements of an ahen present. The utilitarian may smile at this, the Republican rejoice in it as a logical sequence of his cherished theories, and the disciples of Benjamin Franklin pronounce in favor of such a condition of affairs, but there is a deal of sad- ness about it nevertheless ; and if this order of things 254 THE DEAD TOWNS OF GEORGIA. obtain in the coming years as it has in those which are gone, America will continue to be largely a land without perma- nent homes, a country devoid of ancestral monuments. In planting colonies where proper preliminary surveys have not been made, and where the founders are com- pelled in large measure to grope their way in selecting points for earliest occupancy, errors of judgement will occur, and changes Avill be necessitated upon a more intimate acquaintance with the territory and during the progress of development. Locations at first deemed es- sential become subordinate to others, and sometimes prove of no value. Mistakes are committed with regard to the importance of streams, lines of communication, and the desirability of permanent seats. Defensive positions are rendered useless as the tide of human life advances. Barren fields are exchanged for others possessing greater fertility. Diseases are developed at certain points which compel their abandonment. Settlements increase to the annihilation or absorption of others in their vicinity. The possessions of the many become concentrated in the ownership of the few. Towns perish for lack of support. Thus nothing is more common than to observe, amid the changes consequent upon the development of new plantations, a mortality among vil- lages and settlements for which, at the outset, growth and lasting prosperity were confidently anticipated. "It hath been a great endangering to the health of some plantations," says Lord Bacon, "that they have built along the sea and rivers in marish and unwholesome grounds ; therefore though you begin there to avoid car- riage and other like discommodities, yet build still rather upwards fi'om the stream, than along. MISCELLANEOUS TOWNS, PLANTATIONS, &C. 255 Had this precaution been observed, fewer towns would have died in Georgia. After all, however, despite the admonitions of the wisest and the foresight of the most experienced, we cannot hope to arrest the potent influence of inherent decay, or to stay that unseen hand which remorselessly worketh change and destruction among human habitations. " Out upon Time ! it will leave uo more Of the things to come than the things before ! Ont upon Time ! who forever will leave But enough of the Past for the Future to grieve O'er that which hath been, and o'er that which must be : What we have seen, our sons shall see ; Remnants of things that have pass'd away. Fragments of Stone rear'd by Creatures of Clay." INDEX. Abekcorn, U Its location and settlement, 137. Saltzljurgers refreshed at, 138. Mr. Steplieus' visit to, 138-139. Oc- cnpied by Col. Campbell, 140. Feeble life of, 139-140. Abbott, John, 240. African slaves, 171. Alexander, Dr. 222. Allen, Rev. Moses, 222. Alligators, 58. Amelia island, 59, 77, 97. Anastasia island, 85. Andrew, Benjamin, Sr.^ 206. Antrobus, Isaac, 157. Argyle, the Duke of, 91. Augspourguer, Samuel, 26. Bachelor's redoubt, 96. Bacon, Francis, 244. Baillie, Kenneth, 145, 146. Baker, Benjamin, 194, 222. Baker, John, 188. Baker, Captain John, 178. Colonel, 185, 222. Baker, Major William, 186, 200, 222. Barba, Cajjtain Antonio, 108, 109. Barker, Joseph, 19. Barrimacke, village of, 97, 249. Bartram, William, visits Frederiea, 128-129. His visit to, and description of Sun- bury, 169, 170. His description of Fort James, 233, 247. Belfast, Captain Spencer's exploit at, 199. Bergman, Kev. John Ernest, 40. Bermuda, emigrants from in Sunbury, 156. Bermuda-grass, 217. Bermuda island, 157, 109, 171. Bethany, 30. Bewlie, 250, 251. Black-Sloop, the privateer, 99. Blanford, the man of war, 07. Bloody-marsh, affiiir of, 108, 109. Bolzius, Rev. John Martin, 11, 14, 18, 25, 27, 31. Bosomworth, Thomas, 155. Bosomworth, Mary, 155. Bowen, Commodore Oliver, 202. Braddock, Captain, affair with the Dun- more, 202. Brandon, village of, 245, 247. Brewery on Jekyll island, 96. British exactions, 197-199. Brooks, Francis, 78. Brownson, Governor Nathan, 222. Bryan, Jonathan, 178, 183. Bull, Lieutenant-Governor, 102. Bulloch, Archibald, 174. Bull-Town Swamp, affair at, 185. Cadogan, Lieutenant, 110. Call. Richard, 205. Campbell, Colonel, 140, 192, 194, 197. Canal, through General's island, 96. To connect Midway and North-Newi)ort rivers, 158. Carney, Captain Arthur, 130. Carolina, refuses to aid Georgia, 102. Caroline, Queen, 26. Carr, Mark, cession of lands to, 143, 144. A marked man in the Colony, 143. Con- veys land to Trustees for ' Town of Sunbury, 145. Carr, Thomas, 155. Cathcart, Ensign, 88. Chappell, A. H., 242, 243. Christ Church, Parish of, 35. Cochrane, Lieut. Col. James, 06. Colonel's island, Fuser lands upon, 189. Commissioners for the port of Sunbury, 208. Commissioners of Frederiea, 132, 133 . Cook. Lieut. Col., 104. Cooper, Colonel, 178. Couper, John, 190. Cornish, Captain, 50, 52. Cotton, 24. Counties in Georgia in 1777, 172. Coweta-Town, 75. Craemer, Christopher, 36. Cruger, Col. 199, 200, Cumberland island, .59, 97. Cuthbert, Hon. .-Ufred, 222. Cuthbcrt, Hon. John A, 219, 222. Dabien, 55. Description of, in 1743, 116. Dartmouth, Earl of, 127, 176. Dartmoiith, town of, 233, 234. Dasher, Martin, 37. DeBrahiu, John Gerar, William, 21, 30, 34 225, 226, 245. D'Estaing, Count, 40. 200. Defatt, Captain, 183. Delegal, Ensign, 03. 258 INDEX. Delegal, Licutcuaut, G:). Delegal's fort. 6:i. DciiK^re. Captain Raymond. It-l. lO'.i. 110. DeKenuf. Mr. . W. J., '2.-.;). Dfsbrisay, Captain, 88. Dcstrade, Hi). Dollar, Captain. lO."). Dorchester .settlement, 1.50. Dorelifster Soi-iety, 149. Removal to Mid- way district, 150-154. Dunbar, Captain, 51, 104, 106, 108. Duul)ar, Lieutenant George, 5(!, 81. Dviuwody, Dr.. 'i'lli. Ebenezkb, Old. Location of, 13. Settle- ment of. 14-15. Acce.ssion to popula- tion of. 17. Sickness at. 17. Inhabi- tants of, dissatisfied with situation, 18. Removal to New Ebenezer, 19. Ebenezer, New. Location of, 19. 20. Plan of the town of, 21. Condition of in 1738-9. 21, 24. iilk-culturc at, 25-30. Mill-establishment at. 32. Church property. 33. Library at. 34. Period of greatest prosperity of, 35. Divi- sion of sentiment at commencenient of Revolutionary War. 3(;. Occupied by Lieut. Col. Maitland, 3(1. Fortified, 3(5. Sutterings of inhabtants of, during the war, 37 et seq. Decay of, 40. Revival of the prosperity of, 40. Its decline, 41, 42. Made the County- town of Effingham County, 41. Re- moval of public buildings to Spring- field, 41. 42. Glebe lands of, sold, 42. Present appearance of, 43, 44. Edinborough, 239. Effingham County. 35. Elbert. Col. S., 129. Reports capture of tlie Hinihinbrook(s 130-131, 1K3, 1S7. Elberton. 41. Elfeustein. Jacol). 37. Elfenstein, Joshua, 37. Elliott, Grey, 145, 140. Elliott. John, 145, 14(>. 222. Ellis. Governor, 149, 179. Embarcation, the great. 15. Ifi. English language introduced into the Saltz- b\irger Churches, 42. Eyre, Ensign, 104. Fau-on, the sloop, 99. Federal Town, %i'.). Ftnv, Col., 199. Filature in Savannah, 27-29. Floerl, John, 36. Floyd, Gen. (Charles, 219. Forces, estimate of Spanish and English, during the attack upon St. Simon's island, 115. Fort Argyle, 47, 48, 142, 181, 249. " Augusta, l&l. ' ' Barrington, 181, 241. " Bartow, 183. " Defence, 220. " Diego, 81. " Francis de Papa, 81. " Frederick, 127, 128, 181. " George, 180. " Halifax, 180. " Howe, 185. " James, 233. " Morris, 180-183. " Picolata, 78. " St. Andrews, 59, 61, 73, 97. " St. Francis, 78. " St. George, 61, 180. " St. Simons, 60, 61. " William, 61, 97, 104, 10.5, 113, 181. Fiancisville, 241-244. Franklin. Dr. Benjamin, 146. Frederica, 17, 45, 48. Arrival of Colonists at, 51. Town and fort laid out, 51-53, Plan of the town, 53-54. Labors of the early settlers of, 54-55, Location of the town of, 5.5. Harbor of, 55-56 Attractions and health of the place, 56, .57. Indian dance at, 60. Fort strengthened and water battery con- structed, 61, 62. Suj) plied with water and bread, 02. Powder magazine and store-house built, 64. Courageous spirit of the inhabitants of, 64. Gar- rison reinforced by Oglethorpe's regi- ment, 67, 68. Military road connect- ing with Soldiers' fort, 68, 69. De pressing condition of affairs at, 70, 71 Enclosed by a fortification, 72. Pop' ulation of, in 1740, 94, 95. Defensive works and general appearance of, 96 Spanish demonstration against, 107' 114. Strengtliened by Oglethorpe 117, 148. Magazine blown up, 119. Condition and ajjpearance of in 1743 119-120. Description of in 1747, 125, 126. Troops withdrawn from, 126, 129. Visited by Governor Reynolds 127. New defensive works suggested 127. Visited by Bartram, 128, 129 Col. Elbert's description of, in 1777 1'29. State legislation in regard to 132, 134. Capture of the Hin<-hin brooke near, 130, 131. INDEX. 259 Frederica, Military works of. orden^cl to be repaired, 132. Town burnt, 132. Com- missioners of, appointed, 132, 133. Sibbald's description of, 134. C!eases to exist. 13.5. Kemble's description of its ruins, 13fi. French deserter. 111, 112. Fuser, Lieut. Col. 132, 15K, l,s.5. Threatens Suul)ury, 1H9, 192. Summons Fort Morris to surrender, 189. Raises the siege of Sunbury, 192. Galatea, escape of the. 132. General's island, canal cut through. 96. Georgia, original cession of lands to the Trustees of the Colony of. -17. Georgia's losses, 205. German village on St. Simon's island, 122, 249. Germain, Lord George, 185, Gibbon, En.sign, 109, 110. Gibraltar, troops from, 66. Goldsmith, Captain, 200. Goshen, 30, 249. Gray, Lieutenant. 200. Greene, Gen. Nathaniel. 204. Grey, Edmund. '247. Gronau, Rev. Isi'ael Christian, 11, 18, 25. Gwinnett, Button, 129, 156, 174, 222. H.U3ERSHAM, Mr., 29. Hall, Dr. Lyman, 173, 175, 177, 205, 222. Haunistead, village of, 248. Hardy, Captain. 114, 202. Hardwick, named in 1755, 224. Suggested as the Capital of Georgia, 224, 225. Fortifications for. planned by De- Brahm, 225. Grant of lands for set- tlers of, "225. State legislation in re- gard to, 227, 228. 231, 232. Ceases to be the County site of Bryan Co., 2'28, 2'29. Sibbald's description of. 229. Population of, 229. Inhabitants of, 229. Its commerce, "230. Its deca- dence, 229. Its location, 229, 230. Attempted revival of, '231. Harrington Hall 94. Harris. Dr., 70. Harrisburgh, 239. Hartford, 240. Hawkins, Col. Benjamin, 241-243. Heathcote. Alderman, 70. Hector, the man of war, 67. Hermsdorf, Captain, 15. 17, 51. Heron. Ma.jor, 88, 99, 106. High-Gate, 248. Highlanders, settlement of at New Inver- ness, 48, 49. Bravery of, 49. Two, butchered on Amelia island, 77, 78. Highlaudi-rs, Kilh-d at Fort Moosa. 87. Plantation of, on Amelia island, 97. Hiuchinbrooke, capture of the, 130-131. Holseudorf, William, 37. Homer. Captain, 104. Horcasilas, General, 103. Hortou, Mr., 50, 65, 71. 9G. Horton, Captain, 105, 108, 113, 119. Houstouu. John, 174. Howe, Geu'l Robert, 130. 184. 185, 193. 194. Howell, Captain, 202. Affair at Suubury , 203. Howley, Richard, '222. Indian Allies, 97. Indian Chief, valor of, 89. Indian dance. 60. Indian depredations, 208, 209. Indian fields. .55. Ingham, Rev. Mr., 15. Innes. Col. Alexander. 197. Insurrection of negro slaves, 74, 75. Jackson, Major James, 187, 204. Jacksonborough, 239, 240. Jacksonborough Methodist Episcopal Church. 239. Jasper, Sergeant, 38. Jekyll. Sir Joseph, 68. Jerusalem Church, 25. 32, 36, 38, 39. Jones, Captain Joseph. 219. Jones, Major Johu, 200, '222. Jones, Captain Noble, 108, 251, 25'2. Jones. Hon. Noble W., 174. Joseph's Town, 137, 138, 249. Kelsall, Col. Roger, '203. Kemble, Frances Anne, 136. Kilpatrick, Gen. Judsou, 189. Kitchen, James, 157. Kitchius, Collector, 201. Lamar. Captain C. A. L.. 182. Lands, tenure of in Georgia. 144, 145. Lane, Major, 180, 191, 194. surrenders Fort Morris, 195, 196. Law, William, 222. Lawrence, John, Jr., 125-r26. Lawson, Captain John. 196, 202. Lee, Gen'l Charles, 183. Lee, Francis, 155. Lembke. Rev. Mr.. 25, 32. Lewis, Captain Elijah, 209. Liberty County, 172, 176, '205, '208, '209, 210, 218, 220. Liberty Independent Troop, 2'20. Library of New Ebenezer, 34. Lincoln, General Benjamin, 40, 200. Lisbon, '239. Lombe, Sir Thomas, 25. London Merchant, the ship, 50. Lord, Rev. Joseph, 150. 260 INDEX. Lyell, Sir Charles, 57. MacClkllan, Captain, 119-120. MarKay, Captain Hugh. 49, r>5, 58, .59, 73. Ma">. Visits Ogle- thorpe, '.U. Appointed Deputy Gen- eral of Georgia, ll'.i. dHis description of Abercorn, 13!). Owns and names Bewlie, 2^0, 2.51. Stevens, John. 14.5, Ufi. Stewart, General Daniel, 219, iii. Stiles, Captain, 202. Stirk, Col. John, 36. 37. Stirk, Secretary Samuel, 37, 205. Strobel, Key. P. A., 20, 32, 37, 43. 44. Strohaker, Rudolph, 37. Stuart, Lieutenant, 113. Success, the ship, 105, lOO. Sunbury Academy, 222-215. Teachers of, 215, 2ir>. Sunbury Female Asylum, 218. Sunbury, Town of, its location, 141-143. Conveyance of 300 acres of land to the Trustees of, 145. Signification of the name of, 145. 14(). Condition of the Midway District at the period of the settlement of. 149-1.54. Plan of, 1.54. Declared a port of entry, 1.55. Emigrants from Bermuda in, 1.56. Commerce of, 157-1.58. Health of, 158. Pi-oprietors of, 1.59-169. Bar- tram's description of, 169, 170. Popu- lation of. at era of greatest prosperity, 170. 171, Exports, and imports of, 171. Character of its pojjulation. 171. Its wharves, 171. Its government, 172. Rebellious sjurit of its inhabi- tants, 175. Fort built at, 178, 179. Location, construction, and arma- ment of Fort Morris, 181-183 Threat- ened by Colonel Mark Prevost, 187. Invested by Lieut. Col. Fuser, 189- 192. Siege raised, 192. Houses of, injured by the garri.son, 193. Its de- pressed condition, 194. Reduction of Fort Morris, 19.5-196. Captured by Prevost, 195, 196. Languishes, 202. ABair of CaiJtain Howell at, 203. In- crease of population, 205, 206. Chief Justice Walton's Charge to the Grand Jury in, 20(>, '207. Designated a.s the point for holding the Superior and Inferior Courts of Liberty County. 208. Commissioners appointed for the port of, 208. Sunbury, ReN-ival of the trade of, 208. Indian incursions in the neigh- borhood of, 208. Public acts for the regulation of, 210-'J12. Descrip- tion of, in 1801, 212. Sunbury Acade- my, 212-215. Removal of the public buildings to Riceboro, 216-217. De- cline and ill-health of, 217, 218. Sher- wood's description of, 21K. Female Asylum, 218. Fort rebuilt, 218. Fourth of July celebrations in, 2'20, 221. Its decadence, 221. Present condition of, 221, 2'22. Its noted inhabitants, &c., 222, 223. Sutherland, Lieutenant, 109. Symoud, the ship, .50. Takner, Mr , 50. Tennill, Lieutenant, 194. * Thomas, Cajitain, 50, 52. Thompson, Cajitain, 105, 106. His descrip- tion of Frederica in 1747, l'i5, 126 Thunderbolt, '248. Tobacco, culture and inspection of in Geor- gia, 234, 235 Tolson, Lieutenant. 105. Tomo-chi-chi, 48, 50 58, 00. Death and burial of, 76, 77.' Toouahowi 77, 81, 108. Treutlen. John Adam, 36, 37. Triebner, Rev. Christopher F , 32, 36, 37, 40. Trustees of Sunbury, 145. Tuckasee King, 41. Twiggs, Colonel, 199. Tybee, Island of 249. Tyrrell, Captain, 79 Vanderdussen, Colonel, 79, 80 85, 87, 88. Vatt, Mr.. 15. Vernon, Admiral, 79, 98. Vienna, the Town of, 239. Von Reck, Baron, 12, 15. W.\LUHAUER. Jacob, 36. Waller, the Poet, 143. Waltou, Hon George, '205-207. Ward, Hon. John E , 2'22. Warren. Captain, 83, 86. Wa-shington, General George, 214. Wayne, General ,\nthony, 40, 204. Wentworth, General, 103. Wesley, Rev. Charles, 15. Wesley, Rev. John, 15, 19, 22. West, Dr , 222. West, Ma.ior Charles, 178. White, Colonel John, 186, 187. His strata- gem, 187. Whitefield, Rev. George, 66, 115. While House, affair at the, 200. Winn, Captain John, 219. Wdex. 263 Wormsloe, plantation of, 251. Description of in 1743, 'iSl-Sr.i. Tabby Port at, 252. Present appearance of, 253. Wright, Sir James, 2'.>. Reports condition of Fort Frederick, 128 ; of Sunhury, 157. Comments upon disloyalty of St. John's Parish, 176. Wright, Sir James. Reports dilapidated condition of the Forts on the Geor- gia coast, ISO, 181, 2i7. YotTNG, Mr. Thomas, 199. ZioN Chtjech, 25. Zittrauer, Ernest, 37. # Zubly, Rev. Dr., 174. ITlNEttANT OBSERVATIONS IN AMERICA REPRINTED FROM THE LONDON MAGAZINE 1745-6. SAVANNAH : J. H. Estill, Printer, Morning News Steam Priutiug House. MDCCCLXXYllI. THE LONDON MAGAZINE AND MOiN^THL Y C H H( )X()L( JGEK. M 1 ) C C X L V . , [P- 3!)5 et seq.\ To the Author of the London Magazine : \ Young Gentleman, who lias made the Tour of most --LJk^ Parts of America, is preparing for the Press, Some New and Curious Observations, made in several Voyages and Travels in that Part of the Globe. I have, out of Regard to your Collection, prevail'd upon him to favour the Publick, now and then, thro' your Channel, with his Descriptions of the most remarkable Places he has visited ; which can be no Detriment to his Undertaking : I shall give 'em you, just as, and when I receive them, without Order or Connection. Anonymus. 1. Y7\REDERICA, on the Island of St. Simon, the chief J- Town in the Southernmost Part of the Colony of Georgia, is nearly in Lat. 31 15' North. It stands on an Eminence, if consider'd with regard to the Marshes before it, upon a Branch of the famous River Alatamaha, which washes the West Side of this agreeable little Island, and, after several Windings, disembogues itself into the Sea at Jckyl Sound: It forms "a Kind of a Bay before the Town, and is navigable for Vessels of the largest Burden, which may lie along 4 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. along the Wharf iu a secure and safe Harbour ; and may, upon Occasion, haul up to careen and retit, the Bottom being a soft oozy Clay, intermix'd with small Sand and Shells. The Town is defended by a prett}- strong Fort, of Tappy,* which has several 18 Pounders mounted on a Ravelin in its Front, and commands the River both u|) wards and downwards ; and is surrounded bj'' a quadi'angular Rampart; with 4 Bas- tions, of Earth, well stockaded and turfed, and a palisadoed Ditch, which include also the King's Storehouses, (in which are kept the Arsenal, the Court of Justice, and Chapel) two largo and spacious Buildings of Brick and Timber : On the Rampart are mounted a considerable (Quantity of Ordnance of several Sizes. The Town is surrounded by a Rampart, with Flankers, of the same Thickness with that round the Fort, in form of a Pentagon, and a dry Ditch ; and since the famous Attempt of the Spaniards in July 1742,t at the N. E. and S. E. Angles, are erected two strong cover'd pentagonal Bastions, capable of containing 100 Men each, to scour the Flanks with Small Arms, and defended by a Number of Can- non : At their Tops are Look-outs, which command the View of the Country and the River for many Miles : The Roofs are shingled,:j: but so contriv'd as to be easily clear'd away, if incommodious in the Defence of the Towers. The whole Circumference of the Town is about a Mile and a Half, including, within the Fortifications, the Camp for General OyUthorpes Regiment, at the North Side of the Town ; * A Mixture nf Linu-, mack of Oyster-Shells, with Saml, small Slidls, itc. wliidt, when harden'd, is ax firm as Stone. I have observ'd prodigious Quantities of Sail Petre to issue from WaUs of (his Cement. iSee Lond. Mag. 1742, p. 461, 515, 51fi, 567. t Sliingles are spUt nut of many Sorts of Wooil, in Uie Shape of Tiles, which, when tlw.y have been tome Time exjxis'd to the WeaOmr, apiiear of Uie Colour of Slate, and have a very pretty Look; the Houses in America are mostly sliingUd. ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. 5 Town ; the Parades on the West, and a small Wood to the South, which is left for Conveniency of Fuel and Pasture, and is an excellent Blind to the Enemy in Case of an Attack ; in it is a small Magazine of Powder. The Town has two Gates, call'd, the Land-port and the Water-port ; next to the latter of which is the Guard-house, and under- neath it the Prison for Malefactors, which is an handsome Building of Brick. At the North End are the Barracks, which is an extremely well contriv'd Building, in Form of a Square, of Tappy-Work, in which, at present, are kept the Hospital, and Spanislt Prisoners of War : Near this was situated the Bomb Magazine, which was blown up on 3Iarch 22, 1744,* with so surprizingiy Httle Damage.t The Town is situated on a large Indian Field : To the East it has a very extensive Savannah, (wherein is the Burial Place) thro' which is cut a Road to the other Side of the Island, which is bounded by Woods, save here and there some opening Glades into the neighbouring Savannah's and Marshes, which much elucidate the Pleasure of looking. Down this Road are several very commodious Plantations, particularly, the very agreeable one of Capt. Deniery, and that of Mr. Hawl'im. Pre-eminently appears Mr. Oglethorpes Settle- ment, which, at Distance, looks like a neat Country Village, Avhere the Consequences of all the various Industries of an European Farm are seen. The Master of it has shewn, what Application and unbated Diligence may effect in this Coun- try. At the Extremity of the Road is a small Village, call'd the German Village, inhabited by several Families of Saltz- burghers, who plant and fish for their Subsistence. On the River * See Lond. Mag. 1744, p. 3o<). 1 1 have been told, that in this Explosion, near 3000 Bombs burst, which, had they not been wellbedded, vaouid have done much Mischief. fi ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS ill AMERICA. River Side, (iiie has the Prospect of a large Circuit of Marshes, terminated by the Woods on the Continent, in Form like an Amphitheatre, and interspers'd with the Meanders of Abundance of Creeks, form'd from the afore- said River. At a Distance may be seen the white Post at Bachelor's Redoubt, also on the Jfain, where is kept a good Look-out of Rangers To the North are Marshes, and a small Wood ; at the Western Extremity of which are the Plantations of the late Capt. Deshrisaij, and some others of less Note ; together with a Look-out, wherein a Cor- poral's Guard is station'd, and reliev'd weekly, call'd Pikes, on the Bank of tlie River, from whence they can see Vessels a great Way to the Northward. On the South is a Wood, which is, however, so far clear'd, as to discover the Ap]n-oach of an Enemy at a great Distance ; without it, to the East- ward, is the Plantation of Capt. Dunbar : and to the West- ward, a Corporal's Look-out. The Town is divided into several spacious Streets, along whose Sides are planted Orange Trees," which, in some Time, will have a very pretty Effect on the View, and will render the Town pleasingly shady. Some Houses are built entireh' of Brick, some of Brick and Wood, some few of Ta])py-Work ; but most of the meaner Sort, of Wood only. The Camp is also divided into several Streets, distinguish'd by the Names of the Captains of the several Companies of the Regiment ; and the Huts are built generally of Clapboards and Palmetto's, and are each of them capable to contain a Family, or Half a Dozen single Men. Here these brave Fellows live with the most laudable Oeconomy ; and tho' most of them, when off * The In/iahitantx begin to plani Ihii cliarining Fruit very mucli, awl, 'lis In hr hnji'd, will banish their nunu-rmix Peach Trees to their Country Settlemenl.t, whicli are Xuneriex of Muskfttoi:, ami other Ver- min. Tlie Seawn I ioa Oiere, they Itad Oranges enough of Uieir own Growth for Home Consumption. ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS ill AMERICA. ? off Duty, practise some Trade or Employinent, tliey make as tiue an Appearance upon the Parade, as any Regiment in the King's Service ; and their exact Discipline does a great deal of Honour to their Officers : They have a Market every Day : The Inhabitants of the Town ma,y be divided into Officers, Merchants, Store-keepers, Artisans, and People in the Provincial Service ; and there are often, also, many Sojourners from the neighboring Settlements, and from New York, Philadelphia, and Carolina, on Account of Trade. The Civil Government does not seem yet to be quite riglitly settled by the Trustees, but is, at j^resent, administer'd by three Magistrates, or Justices, assisted by a Recorder, Con- stables, and Tythiug-Men. The Military is regulated as in all Garison-Towns in the British Dominions. In short, the whole Town, and Country adjacent, are quite rurally charm- ing, and the Improvements every where around, are Foot- steps of the greatest Skill and Industry imaginable, consid- ering its late Settlement, and the Rubs it has so often met with ; and as it seems so necessary for the Barrier of our Colonies, I am in Hopes of, one Time, seeing it taken more Notice of than it is at present.^ (To be Contiiiued.l Tlih was written in the Beginning of 17415. 8 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS h AMEEICA. [Observations in several Voyages ami Tuavkls in Aiuerii-a. dmUmietl from our Magazine for Aug. 1745, p. :)(;.] Per vnrios mmiK, per tot discrimimi renim. Vii-L'. 2. AT tl'*-' ^<^>iit.li Poiut of this Island of St. Simons, are JTX. the Ruins of the Town of St. Simons, destroy'd by the Sjjcmiards at their Invasion : By the remaining Vestiges, it must have been a very uniform Phice ; and the Situation is quite charming, tho' it now makes one melancholy to see such a Desolation in so new a Country.'^ . The only Building they left standing, was an House which they had consecrated for a Chapel. How different the Proceedings of the more generous Etiglislt I even in these Parts,t who never leave behind them such direful Remembrances ; but here religious Fury goes Hand in Hand with Couqiiest, resolv'd to ruin whom they can't convert. The Fort has some Re- mains still, and seems to have been no extraordinary Affair ; tho' no Place was ever better defended, and the Enemies seem, by their Works and Intrenchments, to have thought themselves sure of keeping the Town, but found themselves wofully mistaken. Down the Beach, to the Westward, is a Look-out of Tappywork, which is a very good Mark for standing over the Bar into the Harbour ; and on the oppo- site Point of Jekyl Island is a very remarkable Hammock of Trees, much taken notice of by Seamen on the same Ac- count. Somewhat lower, and more Northerly, is the Planta- tion call'd Gascoiijns, which underwent the same Fate with St. Simons. An Officer's Command is station'd at South Poiut, * It ivf-y mudi surpriz'd me to see such an incredible QuaiUil;/ of Purslain groiv anwngsl Uie Foun- dalions of Vie Houses, far I never saw so mudi any wliere elie. It sitould seem Uiat Lime and Shell were a very proper Bed fur it. ^ Asat Porto Bello, Cliugre, aiul even before, al Uie Siege of St. Auyustiuc. ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. 9 Point, who disposes his Gentries so as to discover Vessels some Leagues at Sea, and upon any such Discovery an Alarm-Gun is fir'd and an Horseman sent up with Notice to the Head-Quarters, which is nine Miles from this Place. If the}' appear to make for the Harbour ; a perpendicular mounted Gun is fir'd, as a Sigual, which, by the Ascent of the Smoke, is a Direction to a Ship a long Wa}'- in the Ofhug, and is a most lucky Contrivance. The Road from hence to Frederica is cut through the Woods, and through the Marshes rais'd upon a Causeway. To make a good Horseman in America is no easy Matter, without consider- able Practice*; and Accidents often happen to the best of us, by the Intricacies of the Tracts and Paths. The Horses are the most hardy Beasts imaginable, and though they can't all size with European Horses, they make it out in Service. Nature, in all its gay Varieties, seem'd to open her Charms to delight our Senses, in our little inland Voyage from St. Simons Island to the chief Town of the North Part of the Colony. My Mind will ever retain the Diversity of Scenes that presented to our admiring Eyes in this Passage ; and now I endeavour to commit some faint Sketches of them to Paper, I am lost, methinks, in the prodigious Confusion of Objects, that all at once crowd before me, romantically pleasing, and, as it were, make Imagination sick with "Won- der. Here let the Atheist, if such there be, view these rudest Footsteps of a Creator, aud own himself convinc'd of his Foil}- and Absurdity, to suppose Chance the Productor. What a judicious Mixture of Light and Shade in the Land- skip ! how excellent the Colouring ! how artfully dispos'd the Parts ! how conducive to the Harmony of the Whole ! Rivers B 10 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS /w AMERICA. Rivers aud Creeks, that glide with a peaceful, and, as it were, contented Current, into wide Arms* and Breaks of the Sea, which seem indignantly to resist their low and servile Community, forgetting, like some of the Race of Adam, that they had the same Original, foaming and lashing the Shores with repeated Fur}- : The Marshes and Savannas extended along their Borders, dispos'd with so seeming a Regularity, as to make the whole Prospect look like one continu'd Canal, the Effect of the most studious Contrivance: AYliilst at a distant View you take in a large Tract of hoary Woods, interspersed Avitli verdant Spots that bear the Sem- blance of the most refreshing Meadows ; rusHck Grottos, rugged Caverns, mossy Caves, and cooling Cells, seem to border their Sides. Here the loft}- Oak, with all his kindred Tribe,t clad in Robes of antique Moss,:}: seems, by its venerable Appearance, to be the real Monarch of the Woods; the Cedar, sweet as the Cedar of Lebanon ; the towering ever-green Pine; the fragrant Hickary, the mournful Cj^ress, and here and there the triumphant Laurel, are seen in full Lustre, and preside over an Infinit}'- of lesser Products, that seem to venerate, beneath, their more advanc'd and distingiiish'd Neighbours. The savory Sassafras Shrub per- fumes the Air, the Prickly-Pear Shrub offers his tempting Fruit to the Hand, but wisely tells you, by the Points that guard * CalVd Sounds, as, in thU Roof, Sapola, Ossabaw, SI. Catherine's, Ogechee, &c., taking their Names f mm Ume Islands. These, are aU gnod Harbours, but, witli little Wind, very dangerous Xavigation for open Boats. t As ttte Lire Oak, Water Oak, Swamp Oak, Marsh Oak, Holy Oak, itc. TAve Oak is rmuli more Itanl ami solid than Uie Wornl of Brazil, anlfa'l as lieavy. I believe it ivould turn to Account In im- port some Quantity of this Wood for the Use of Refiners, / oftin jxUrole uhn :)00 Miles bfidc in the Counlry, (ufar (is ilounl Venture, known lii/ tJte un- JortuncUe Story of Vie Mitnler of Francis's Family by the Yamasee /ndiam. t The Tarkies and Geese are more Micaie Uian tliose in Europe ; and, ivhich is almost incredUile, I have seen them in all Parts of North America, weighing from 40 to (iO Poun-ts. t Tho' Owre is no watU of Ifrrlisfor tlie Pot in any Wood you />, pdrlicularly wiUl Spinage, or, as we call it. Poke, which is also agi'eeably medicinal to tlie Body. ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. 15 entertaining to us, Avould be tiresome elsewhere in the Repe- tition, we arriv'd in somewhat more than two Days at the A^arroivs, where there is a Kind of 3fanc]iecola.s Fort for their Defence, garison'd from IVormdoe, where Ave soon arriv'd. It is the Settlement of Mr. Jones, 10 Miles S. E. of Savannah, and we could not help observing, as we passed, several very pretty Plantations. Wormsloe is one of the most agreeable Spots I ever saw, and the Improvements of that ingenious Man are very extraordinary : He commands a Company of Marines, who are quarter'd in Huts near his House, which is also a tolerable defensible Place with small Arms. From this House there is a Vista of near three Miles, cut thro' the Woods to Mr. WhitefielcVH Orphan House, which has a very fine Effect on the Sight. (To becnntinued, ns Occaxion serves.) [Observations in several Voyages, and Travels in Anieriia. Cuntinwd from our Magazine for Nov. 174r>, ;). 552.] 3. rriHE Route from Wormsloe to Mr. WhitefiekVs Orphan J- House is extremely agreeable, mostly thro' Pine Groves, where we saw the recent Appearances of a Storm of Thunder and Lightning, that happened the Day before. Some of the tallest Trees were riven to their very Roots, and their Branches spread far and wide ; others had only some Strips taken off, from Top to Bottom, as regularly as a Lath-maker splits his Laths, and at the Roots there seem'd to be an Aperture in the Ground, as if the igneous Matter liad penetrated into the very Bowels of the Earth : Every where the Shrubs and Bushes retain'd the Marks of Fu-e, and in ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS /// AMERICA. and the whole "Woods offended the Smell with the sulphure- ous Taint. In all woody Journeys, in these Countries, you perceive Millions of Trees cjuite strip'd of their Honours, and burnt up by this Means, and the Ruin spread many Miles. 'Tis, indeed, some Suri)rize to ol)serve these hurricane Tempests, which rise in a Moment, without Warning, and as soon spend their Fary and subside : The whole Ocean, in a Foam, breaking Mast-high ; the adjacent Woods re- sounding, thro' their remotest Bounds, with the weighty E/uins, that, as Milton says, Boir their stiff nerks, loaden with utormy hlantn. Or torn up sheer. Thus the fierce Sons of Aeolus, rushing abroad with resist- less Force, scour the wild Waste, and drive the fiercest In- habitants of the Plain to their Caves and Dens. The impetuous Rains almost crush you ; the Element is kindled into Flames ; and the hoarse Thunder growls with deaf'ning Roar. It gave me much Satisfaction to have an Opportunity to see this Orphan- House, as the Design had made such a Noise in Europe, and the very Being of such a Place was so much doubted every where, that, even no farther from it than ]S[eio England, Affidavits were made to the contrary. It is a square Building, of very large Dimensions, the Foun- dation of which is of Brick, with Chimneys of the same, the rest of the Superstructure of Wood ; the Whole laid out in a neat and elegant Manner. A Kind of Piazza- Work surrounds it, which is a very pleasing Retreat in the Sum- mer. The Hall, and all the Apartments are very commo- dious, and prettily furnished. The Garden, Avhich is a very extensive one, and well kept up, is one of the best I ever saw in tTINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMEBIC A. 17 in America, and you may discover in it Plants and Fruits of almost every Clime and Kind. The Out-houses are con- venient, and the Plantation will soon surpass almost any Thing in the Country. The Front is situated towards Mr. Jones s Island/^ (to which, the Way on any Side is impassa- ble, unless by Boat) to whose Plantation the foremention'd Vista is clear'd, which affords to both Settlements a good Airing and Prospect. We were receiv'd by the Superin- tendant, Mr. Barber, a Dissenting Minister, in a genteel and friendly Manner. They were at Dinner when we arriv'd, the whole Family at one Table, and sure never was a more orderly, pretty Sight : If I recollect right, besides Mr. Bar- ber, the Schoolmaster, and some Women, there were near 40 young Persons of both Sexes, dress'd very neatly and de- cently. After Dinner they retir'd, the Boys to School, and the Girls to their Spinning and Knitting : I was told, theii vacant Hours were employ'd in the Garden and Plantation- Wprk. Prepossess'd with a bad Opinion of the Institution, I made all the Inquiries I could, and, in short, became a Convert to the Design : which seems very conducive to the Good of an infant Colony. And whatever Opinion I may have of the Absurdity of some of their religious Notions, Tenets and Practices, yet so far as they conduce to inculcate Sobriety, Industry and Frugality, they deserve Encourage- ment from all Well- Wishers of their Country : And, indeed, I could not here perceive any Thing of that Spirit of Un- charitableness, and enthusiastick Bigotry, their Leader is so fam'd for, and of which I heard shocking Instances all over America. 'Tis near eight Miles from this House to Savanna, the Eoad CaU'd so, tho' some Ways it is only bounded by a Marsh, which is sometimes dry. 18 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS 171 AMEEICA. Road cut thro' the Woods, which has an hundred Curiosities to dehght the attentive Traveller, and is diversified with Plantations here and there, tlio' now in no very good Order, for a Eeason that will be seen by and by. 4. Savanna is situated on a navigable River, which goes by the Name of the Town, and Vessels of consid- erable Burden may lie close to the Shore, which is be- tween 40 and 50 Feet above the Water's Edge. One main Street runs thro' the whole Town, from the landing Place. It has very near 350 Houses, Huts, and Warehouses in it, beside the publick Buildings, which are, the Storehouse of the Trustees, an handsome Court-House, a Goal, a Guard House, and a publick Wharf, projected out many Feet into the River. The Streets are wide and commodious, and intersect each other mostlj^ at Right Angles : The whole Town is laid out very commodiously, and there are several large Squares. Many of the Houses are very large and handsome, built generally of Wood, but some Foundations are brick' d. They have Plenty of Water, and very good ; and the Soil is dry and sandy, which I reckon the most wholsome in this Country, as the Rains entirely dry up, and leave no noxious Steams, as in a moist, low Situation, like that of Charles Town, in South Carolina, where the People are much afflicted with Agues, &c. The Houses are built some Distance from each other, to allow more Air and Garden Room, and prevent the Com- munication, in Case of any Accident by Fire. The Town is divided into Wards and Titliings, which have their several Constables and Tithingmen. The Magistrates are three Bailiff's and a Recorder, who have Power to judge in capital Crimes, as well as Affairs of meiim and tuum, in that Part of the rriNEEANT OBSERVATIONS m AMEEICA. 19 the Colony. They have a piiblick Garden, in a very thriving Way, which is a Kind of Nursery for the Use of the Inhabi- tants. The Town stands about ten Miles from the Sea up the River, (which is navigable some hundred Miles up the Country,) and is, certainly, a very good Harbour, and well seated for Trade. The Land, a considerable Space round the Town, is well clear'd, and the Passages lie open ; a hand- some Road- Way running above a Mile from it, and making the Prospect very lightsome. The Air is pure and serene, and,. perhaps, never was a better Situation, or a more health- ful Place. Pity it is, that a Spirit of Opposition to the wholsome Rules this Colony was first established upon. Ingratitude to their great and humane Benefactor; an Ignorance of their true Interest, and a cursed Spirit of Dissension amongst themselves, has rendered this sweet Place so much less flourishing than it was at the Beginning of the Settlement ; but, it is to be, hop'd they will learn to hate one another less, be less prone to Faction and Bicker- ing, and Things may, possibly, still be restored to their pristine State. The Inhabitants may be divided into Magis- trates, Planters, Merchants and Store-keepers, Artisans and Servants, besides Sojourners from the Northward and South- ward. There are many pretty Plantations in the Country about Savanna, belonging to the Inhabitants of that Town, particularly, Col. Stephens's, Mr. Gauston's, &c. A Light- House is erected on Tyhee Island, which is a very good Sea- Mark, and the only one South of Carolina ; tho' for the Use of the Harbour there is little Occasion for it, at present, there being very Httle Business stirring. We set out, in a few Days, in one of Capt. Jones's Scout Boats, mann'd by a Party of his Marine Company, and had a very 20 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMEEICA. very pleasant Passage to Fort Frederick on the Island of Fort Roycd in South Carolina, where we arriv'd in a Day and an half, having passed several Sounds, as Tyhee Sound, Port Royal Sound, &c. Fort Frederick has the Name of a Fort ; but, considering the Importance of the Situation of it, never was a Place worse kept up ; in short, 'tis a Heap of Euins, and capable of no Defence, the Barracks being the strongest Parts of it. The Artillery are few, and badly mounted. The only Thing worth speaking of in it, is the Garison, which is a small Party of O(jlcthor joe's, brave Reyiment, who, at this Time, were commanded, by a very worthy young Gentleman, En- sign Archibald Bon. A -whole Company of this Regiment was once statiou'd here, and have left some Marks of their Industry behind them. Three Miles from the Fort, or there- abouts, is the Town of Beaufort, the Avenues to which are prodigiously agreeable. (More, as Occasion serves.) ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS tn AMERICA. 21 [London Magazine, 174(i, pp. i^jr>, 12H.] To the Author of the London Magazine : S/B, X^"T 7 HEN I proposed first to transmit you some SpecL V V mens of my Friend's Performance, I told you I should not observe much Order or Connection ;* but, however, hitherto there lias been a Kind of Order observed, from his Description of Frederica to his Arrival at Becmfort in Car- olina ;t which I must now break in upon, as his farther Account of Carolina is much interspers'd with the Reasons of the Disputes then existing between that Colony and the infant Settlement of Georgia, which, tho', set in an agreeable and just Light, may not be so proper for your Collection, as it may open a Dispute long since subsided, and when the Character of a certain Gentleman has been set, by the same Author in a Point of Light that needs no additional Lus- tre ;t and at a Time when Malice itseK has ceas'd her Calumnies ; Therefore, I shall now transport you to another Scene, and leave what I before spoke of to his own Disposal. Yours, &c., Anonymus. [Observations in s-xeral Voyages and Travels in America, Continued from, our Mag. /or De- cember, 1745, p. 604.] V. Some Account of a Voyage from New York to Senepuxon ire Maryland. Not being able then, on account of the excessive Severity of the Season, and the Depth of the Snow, which was near 4 Feet, to pursue our Route by Land, thro' the Province *See our Mag.. /or Aug. 174.5, p. 305. i See our Mag. /or Decern. 1745, p. 604. t See the two Fixes sign'd Americus ; one in our Mag. for September, 1744, p. 444 446 ; the other in. our ilag./)r November tlie sam^e year, p. 541 546. 22 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. Province of Pensilvania, we took Passage on board a Sloop* of about 70 Tons, bound to Sene-puxon in Blaryland, which is generally a Run of 3 or 4 Days, with the Land close aboard, and a fine level Shore. A Traveller should never depend upon any Thing, but liis own Sight, or the Expe- rience of a Friend, for the Character of a Vessel and its Commander : 'Tis as absolutely necessary to have a per- sonal Knowledge of those two principal Points of marine Happiness or Misery, as to consult the Temper of your Wife or Friend, or the Situation of your Villa, before you undertake uncertain Voyage thro' the tempestuous Ocean of Life. Indeed, these are but transient Ills, you'll say, and you may see plainly the End of them : Very true ; but as in an unhappy Marriage, so in a Vessel of bad Trim, and under the Government of an obstinate Steersman, you frequently but end your Anxieties in the Arms of Death. Next to the Pleasure you enjoy in having, at Sea, a good, tight, clean Vessel under you, nothing can be more agreea- ble than a sociable, humane Skipper, who consults the Ease and Satisfaction of his accidental Family before any selfish- ly, sordid Inclination. Misfortunes may be lightened by good Company, and the Charms of Friendship will make Amends even for the Horrors of Famine and the most dreadful Tempests. We had no Reason to complain of our Master, indeed ; but of an Illness that confined him to his Cabin * The ports nf America arefiVed with various Kinds of Vessels, not over common in very long Voya- ges in EuroiJe : where three .Uast Ve.fseJs are generally used, as much on account of their better Accom- molntinns for lining, as on accuunt of the more tempesluiius Seas tliey traie in ; fir most commonly Oie Coasts of America and the West Indies are a wry safe and p'easant yavigation. and long Voyages have. Iieen marie in very small Craft. Sloops and Scliooners are tlie general Built they run upon, and tliey are very wlroit in Uie Contrivance of Uiem, particularly at, Bernnulas, where they build prodigious Numliersfor Sate. They have also Galleys, Settees. Perriaguns, Launches, Jcc, too many to mention. J can't imagine the experienced Sailor woutd ever cfumse to trust himself in any Thing preferably to a three Mas'. Vessel ; for as to Sloops, for Instance, 'tis plain you have but one Dependence, and may be twaUow'd up before you can remedy your loss. iTINEEANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. 2^ Cabin the whole Voyage, (which was many Days longer than we expected or desired) and which rendered the only able Seaman we found amongst us of no Service. The Vessel was our greatest Grievance we soon found, being prodigiously foul, rotten, and leak}- ; and a Pack of stupid Planters, the Crew, who never had been 10 Leagues from Land since they were born, increased that Misfortune. Un- knowing all this, we went on board as gaily as we would have done into a Packet-Boat, and found the Master in Bed, which Inconvenience we readily put up with, as the Voyage was so short and safe, and as he informed us, his Mate was a very able Mariner. Our Complement then was, 6 Hands belonging to the Sloop, 3 Passengers, and 7 Negro Slaves ; and after takina; some necessarv Refreshments from Town, we weigh'd and fell down under Nurten Island, and might have taken the Advantage of an immediate North- Wester, to have put out to Sea ; but here there happened a great Dis- pute between the Captain and his strange Associates, and in short they refus'd to run beyond Sandy Hooh that Night. It seems they had engaged to come this Trip, and to be paid in Freight of such Goods, as they bought at Neiv York for their Plantation Uses, and so were not absolutely under Command ; and were resolv'd to lie under the Windward Shore, to consume half an Anchor of New England Rum before they left the Sight of Neio York. Rewards and Menaces were of no Service, so we even made a Virtue of Necessity, and wrapping ourselves in our Bedding, slept quietly till next Morning, but found when we arose, that two of our Negroes had lost the Use of their Hands and Feet by the Frost (which was excessively severe) notwith- standing they were warmly clad, and had the free Use of that 24 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMEKICA. that necessary Liquor (on these Occasions) Rum, in what Quantity they pleas'd. Our Regret at the Disadvantages we had fallen upon, and which our Time and Occasions would not permit us to remedy, could be equalled by noth- ing but the Displeasure we felt in leaving that delightful Country, that Land of social Joys and heighten'd Pleasures, that flow'd in upon us during our Stay, notwithstanding the rugged Season. Looking behind me, methinks, the Winter Piece is inexpressibly, tlio' mournfully agreeable, the River flowing in a long, long Course, till the Sight loses it in an almost imperceptible Point : On one Shore, the goodly City, all surrounded, as it were, by the Waves, reigns supreme Mistress of the brumal Region, and by its aspiring Fumes, seems to declare itself the proper Resort and Com- fort of the Season ; below it, as far as Eyes can view, the white Beach extends itself, and above its Borders, the now deserted Country Houses rear their unsocial Chimneys. On the opposite Shore of Long-Island, all bleach'd with Snow, appears the sad Reverse of Spring, the tuneful Warblers but just weakly hop over the unfertile Stubble, and raise themselves to complain, in mournful Chirpings, of their forlorn Condition ; nor pour out those Floods of Harmony that erst awaken'd, with enliv'ning Melody, the early Swain. The whole Prospect is as of a large Desart, save that here and there the crawling Fences* of the Plantations, and the aspiring Vapours of the humble Cottages, shew the Country to be inhabited ; and some Remains of the rich Gifts of Ceres, unthoughtfully neglected by the Husbandman, still betray the Footsteps of vernal Industry, and somewhat alleviate my Wintry Chagrin. At five in the Evening, we were Worm Fences. ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMEEICA. 25 were abreast of Barnegaf, on the Coast of A^ew Jersey, and tlie next Day, at Noon, we open'd De la War Eiver, Cape Henlopen bearing S. W. about 12 miles, and had an Expect- ancy of a prosperous Voyage ; when a contrary Wind spring- ing up, we found our Sloop made nothing of plying to Wind- ward, nor answer'd her Helm, and that she was so leaky that the common Spelling at the Pump would not keep her above Water, so that two Hands were constantly employ'd at that Work, immediately, and without the least Distinction of Persons. It seems, that hoping to meet a speedy Passage, they had neglected telling us of their making so much Water ; but now were fain to confess their Folly, and im- plore our Assistance. 'Twas in vain to argue in such a Case, and Self-preservation excited us to use our best En- deavours. All the next Day we lost Way prodigiously, and the cold bleak Weather almost perish'd us : Upon com- paring our Reckonings, we found ourselves above 50 Leagues from the nearest Laud, which we judg'd to be the most Southerly Part of New Jersey. This last twenty four Hours we were drown'd in an Inundation of Rain, which, however, nothing abated the Wind, which blew with redoubled Fury, and the irritated Waves toss'd us aloft and alow in a most frightful Manner, considering the bad Condition of our Habitation, which had not a sound Plank in her, and the Water pour'd in upon us on all Sides. The next Morning open'd, all wild and tempestuous as the last, and our Dis- tractions were increas'd, by three more of our People being taken violently ill of feverish Disorders, occasional by the perpetual Watching, the incessant Labour and the Wet and Cold they were constantly subject to ; and still more so, by our Hen-Coop with our Fowls, and 2 or 3 Hogs, which were p 26 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. were our ouly remaining Flesh Provision, being wash'd overboard, and our Lee Gunnel almost all torn away. We were oblig'd to shift our Loading and Ballast on the other Side, and from this Time could keep no Eeckoning, but lay to, under our double-reef'd Main Sail, expecting the worst that could befal us. In shifting the Ballast we found one considerable Leak, which I stopp'd as well as I could with an old Salvage well paid with Tallow, and over it nail'd an old Tin Plate, which gave some little Respite to the Pump. We now began to think seriously of the Danger we were involv'd in, and the Death that seem'd inevitable. We had no Carpenter, nor one Person that understood Sea Affairs by Profession, of the whole Crew left, and in short every Thing was fallen into our Hands ; we were but two, and the Negroes were all unable to move, the Frost having so affected their Limbs, as to call for present Amputation ; two of them being mortified to the Knees and Shoulders : And here, I must observe, that in general, they are the most awkward, ungain Wretches, in cold Weather, that can be met with, and if not stirr'd up, will sit whole Days shiver- ing in a Corner without moving Hand or Foot : They seem to be form'd only for the sultry Climate they were bOrn in, and those they are principally apply'd to the use of ; tho' when inur'd to a cold one long, they bear it tolerably well. We ourselves now began to feel the Effects before men- tion'd : But what will not Men undergo how many Hard- ships that seem quite impossible to human Strength, to preserve that valuable Blessing, Life ! This Day we had a Kind of melancholy Memento Mori presented to us, being the Rudder, Main Yard and Part of the Cutwater of a Ship, which floated along Side us, and soon the Body of a ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. 27 a Seaman, in a Jacket and Trowzers, who seem'd newly to have met his Fate, and who about two Ships' Length from us was devour'd by three or four hideous Sharks. I was glad that none but ourselves were then upon Deck, and we forebore to speak at all of such a disagreeable Sight, which every one is not Stoic enough to contemplate without abandoning himself to fruitless Despair. At night may never my affrighted Eyes or my amazed and terrified Jjars be Witness to the same what Horrors were we seized with, and how dreadful our Condition ! All llacJc above below all foamy ichite, A horrid darkness mix'd with dreadful light ! Here long, Umg hills, roul far and wide away. There abrupt vales fright back tK intruding day* The Deluges of Rain mix'd with the Waves that contin- ually broke over us, the howling Blasts that rent our Ears the total Darkness, were nothing to our internal Misery. Delirious ravings on one Side expiring Groans on an- other and the Calls of Help, which we were unable to give, on another, quite distracted us. Bread, Water, and Rum were all we had left ; these were our Provisions for the Sick, these our only Sustenance ; and these decreasing so fast as to promise the Addition of the greatest of all Evils to those we already endur'd. Indeed, had our Fowls been preserv'd, we could not have di-essed them, we could keep no Fu-e, and could find no Cooks, and therefore we con- tented ourselves with Bread dipp'd in Rum for our Patients, and a Draught of Water after it, and Bread and Water for ourselves. We forebore to see after the Negroes, but nail'd down the Hatches, and left them to the Mercy of Provi- dence ; we weaken'd apace, and had no Retreat from the Deck, * I forget where my Memory furnish' d m with these Lines. 28 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. Deck, but lasli'd ourselves to some Part of the Quarter- Deck, and slept aud watcli'd by Tarns. Thus we weather'd three more dismal Days and Nights, in the two last of which the Wind shifted to the Eastward, tho' without abating of its wonted Fury. However we made what Way we could, in our present Trim, every Minute expecting to meet with Destruction. We made, as far as we could guess, near 8 Knots an Hour, not daring all these last 24 Hours to direct our Eyes to our distemper'd Messmates in the Cabin, some of whom we were pretty sure deceas'd in the Morning. We shap'd our Course as near as possible, to run in with the next Land, and the next Morning made Shift, one of us, weak as we were, to get up to the Mast Head. None can conceive, with what Rapture we descry'd it all abroad ; but we could not tell where we had fall'n in with it, as not having had an Observation for a long Time. The unex- pected Sight almost depriv'd us of our Senses with very Joy, and instantaneously, as it were, the Wind dy'd away, and a gentle Breeze succeeded, that carried us smoothly to our Mark. We open'd a large Inlet, which we stood in for, and safely came to Anchor, in 12 Fathom Water, the Bottom, a fine Sand mix'd with small Shells. [To be coniinued.] ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS 171 AMEEICA. 29 P. 248. [OusKitVATioss in se.oe.riU Vijya(tKs and Thavels in America ; CoiUinueil from p. 128.] r riHUS we found ourselves to our excessive Satisfaction, -i_ free from those dire Apprehensions that had so long disturb'd our Minds, and those Fatigues that had jaded our Bodies, in this little, uncommonly difficult Voyage. As soon as we had dropped Anchor, we saw several Flats- full of Men, whom we perceived to be our Countrymen ; but how^ was our J03' raised into Admiration, when we were inform'd, that the Place we were in, and had so miraculously lighted on, was Ascateaque Inlet to Seuepuxoii ! We ador'd the Goodness of Providence, and return'd unfeigned Thanks for our Deliverance ; and now we had Time to contemplate the Beauties of the Scene, and to indulge this new Satis- faction. The Bay we were in, was open to the Sea on the Eastward, and on ever}' Side else, landlock'd. We could plainly now discover the Cries of the industrious Hind, tending his improving Flock ; and on every Side, the Lowing of Kine, the Bleating of the fleecy Charge, and the Neigh- ing of the generous Steed, struck our Ears, and we ex- changed for this new Musick, the Jargon of bellowing Winds, the bursting Rains and the roaring Thunder, The Beach all glittering with couchous Richness, and white as the driven Snow, attracted our Eyes on every Side ; the green Marshes and Savannahs, even at this Time, appear'd in fi-esh Verdure ; and the W^oods, from the great Quantities of Ever-greens, seemed to wear a Summer Hue. Up the Country, the Creeks, whose Meanders we could discern, form'.d to the Fancy, regular Canals, rushing Torrents, head- long Cascades, and shining Mirrors ; but to moderate our Satisfaction, * These are la,rge, Jlat-boilom'd Bnats, capable of cirrying sow Tons of Golds, ami used in the Tobacco Countries to unlade Vessels with. They have also a Kind of Sloops, clumsily built, whidi may be called Tobacco Druggers, of 70 or 80 Tons Burden. 30 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. Satisfaction, and to take off from our too great and pre- sumptuous Exultation, on the Larboard Shore lay the melancliol}' Wreck of a large Bristol Man, which had stranded in this Place some Years before. 'Tis impossible to describe the Tortures this Sight gave us, which indeed forc'd Tears from our Ej'es, by Comparison with what we had been Hke to suffer ourselves. We now examin'd our Cabin Associates, and found only the inanimate Remains of three of them. The others had some Signs of Life, and were convey'd on Shore by the Planters who visited us, and were their Neighbours. A thousand Times they lifted their Eyes up with Astonishment at our forlorn Condition. Our Negroes were our next Concern, and here only two were found alive, and such a Stench of Putre- faction in the Hold, as made it necessary to have Recourse to the usual Preservatives from infectious Smells. Our- selves now were to be consider'd, and as soon as the Re- lations of our Owner came down to the Sloop to take Charge of her, we embark'd in a Flat for Golden Quarter. And now, as if our Ability held out only so long as our Necessity subsisted, we soon felt the bitter Effects of our late Trou- bles ; Frost-bitten from Head to Foot, and feverishly dis- tracted from so long a Privation of Downy Repose, we now were almost unable to move any Thing but our de- ploring Eyes ; yet, Misfortune on Misfortune ! our Barge ran aground about a Mile from the Sloop, at low Water, Eleven o'clock at Night, and we were forced to lie open and exposed till the ensuing Morning, she was loaden so deep ; and then, with some Difficulty, we hove her off the Shelve: And this, in an extreme piercing Frost, finished our Disasters, and served almost to rob us entirely of the little Life remaining. [To be continued.] ITINERANT' OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. 31 P. 321. [Odservations in several Voyages and Travels in America, continued from Page 248.] Our kind Correspondent, loho has favoured us from Time to Time luith an ingenious young Gentleman's Remarks in his late American Tour, has been so good as to send us the folloioing for this Blonth; ivhich contains so many remarkable Incidents, and such judicious Observations, as loe doubt not ivill be an agreeable Entertainment to our Readers, ivho are desired to con- nect it loith the last Account in our Mag. /or May, p. 24:8. If^ow we survey the land that oices its name To Charles's bride, , And soon we change, fo?' all that sailors dread, The spritely musick, and the sportful dance ; Where jocund damsels, and their loell pleas'd mates. Pass the delicious moments, void of cire. And only study how to laugh and love, Contented, happy, under Calvert's sway* RELIEV'D from tliis Distress, we pursu'd our little Voyage of about 14 Miles, thro' the several Creeks that convey you to Golden Quarter ; and were near 24 Hours before we arrived there, occasioned by our frequent Inter- ruptions, or running upon the Marshes, or Oyster-Banks with which these Streams are prodigiously replete. On every Side, you might discern the Settlements of the Plant- ers, with their industrious Clearings, surrounded by the native AVoods of the Country ; whilst the distant Curlings of the aspiring Smoak, wantoning in the Breeze, dkect your Eyes to the happy Places of their Residence, where they, generally bless'd with Innocence and Cheerfulness, a com- pliant Consort, and a numerous Race at their Boards, enjoy a Life much to be envy'd by Courts and Cities. We gather'd * See Letter from a Son in a distant Part of the World, March 2, 1713, in London Magazine, July, 1714, p. 355. 32 ITINERAXT OBSERVATIONS in AMEEICA. gather'd a Fruit, in our Route, called a Parsiiuon, of a very delicious Taste, not unlike a Medlar, tlio' somewhat larger : I take it to be a verj cooling Fruit, and the Settlers make use of prodigious Quantities to sweeten a Beer, which they brew of Cnssena and divers Herbs, which is vastly whole- some. The Cassena is a Shrub, that has a small Leaf, some- what sharpish, and is so admired, when hot Water is poured on it, that I imagine the importing of it to Eiir/Jnnd is pro- hibited for fear of injuring the Tea Trade. At our Arrival at our Host's, we were put to Bed, and for several Days attended with a Tenderness and Humanity that soon re- stored our Healths, and our Limbs to their proper Function; when, being furnished with Horses, we addressed ourselves to our first Stage, which was about 20 Miles distant from Golden Quarter, called Snow-Hill. Golden Quarter is a kind of straggling Country Village, but the Inhabitants of that Place and Senepuxon, tho' poorer than some of their Neigh- bours of Marrjland, occasioned by the Poverty of their Soil, are a perfectly hospitable, social, and honest Set of People, and aljound in every Necessary of Life, and most of the Conveniences. In short, they seem to repine only on three Accounts, as all this Side of the Colony does : The one is the Scarcity of strong Liquors ; another the extravagant Dues to their Clergy, whom they pay a pretty large Quan- tity of Tobacco yearly to, by Way of Tithe, for every Head in their Families ; and the third, is their paying a larger Quit-rent, which I think they do in Sterling Money, than any of their Neighbours under the King's Governors. These Things the poorer Sort feel pretty smartly. To be sure, the Clergy ought to be supported in every Country, independ- ently and decently ; and certainly they are an Order of Men that ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS ill AMERICA. 33 that are intirely necessary, whilst they behave soberly and uprightly, to the Well-being of Society, and seem no where more so than in these Countries ; but as I take it, there is little Justice in a poor Land-holder's being obliged to give him as great an Offering as his opulent Neighbour, But here, as in every other Part of the World, the Complaints are very much regulated by the Pastor's Behaviour : You seldom hear any Grumbling, when he is a kind, beneficent, humane, and regular Man, that feels for, and endeavours to supply both the mental Distresses and Wants, as well as the bodily ones, of the Charge intrusted to him ; who never from a Vanity of Temper, a sour Enthusiasm, or a vain Ostentation of Learning, puzzles and distracts his Hearers, by leading them astray from the plain Paths or Meanings of Christi- anity, into the eternal Labyrinths and intricate Mazes of Speculation and Mystery ; nor sets himself up for an infal- lible Judge of every Dispute, and authoritative Decider of every Question ; nor, to sum up the whole, daubs and dresses Religion (as the Poet says) ivhich is divinely pure, and simple from all Arts, like a common 3Iistress, the Object of his Fancy. The Rum they generally have from their Stores, is the Neio England Sort, which has so confounded a Gout, and has so much of the Molasses Twang, that 'tis really nauseous ; and this held up to a very large Price. Sometimes, indeed, an European Vessel lands, to the Gentlemen in the Neighbour- hood, a Cargo of another Sort ; which, however, never dif- fuses itself much to those beneath them : In other better settled Parts of Maryland, indeed, as about Annapolis, and elsewhere, you hear of no Complaints of this Sort, as every Thing is in the greatest Plenty imaginable : So that what I am speaking of, relates principally to Worcester County and the E 34 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS 171 AMEEICA. the Parts adjacent, where the Number of Merchants or Store-keepers is but small. You now and then meet with a Cup of good Cyder, in the Season, here, tho' of a thin fretting Kind. The Beer tliey brew is excellent, which they make in great Quantities, of Parsimons, t&c. or Molasses ; for few of them are come to malting their Corn, of any Kind, at which I was much surprised ; as even the Indian grain, as I have found experimentally, will produce an wholesome and generous Liquor. The meaner Sort you find little else but Water amongst, when their Cyder is spent, 3Iiish^ and Milk, or Molasses, Homine;\' Wild Fowl, and Fish, are their prin- cipal Diet, whilst the Water presented to you, by one of the barefooted Family, in a copious Calabash, :|: with an innocent Strain of good Breeding and Heartiness, the Cake baking upon the Hearth, and the prodigious Cleanliness of every Thing around you, must needs put you in Mind of the Golden Age, the Times of ancient Frugality and Purity, All over the Colony, an universal Hospitality reigns ; full Tables and open Doors, the Kind Salute, the generous De- tention speak somewhat like the old roast-Beef Ages of our Forefathers, and would almost persuade one to think their Shades were wafted into these Regions, to enjoy, with greater Extent, the Reward of their Virtues. Prodigious Numbers * Made of Indian Com, or Rice, pounded. t Indian Meal, pounded or ground wiOi the Ilmlca, and fry'd. Great Homine has Meat or Fowl in it. t The Sheli of a Fruit so called. So)ne of them hold two Quarts. What is said hire is most strictly true, Jor tlieir Manner of Living is quite gmerous and open : Strangers are sought after with GreeAiness, as Oiey pass the Country, to be invited. Their Breakfast Tables haite generally the cold Remains of the former Day, haslied or fricasseed ; Coffee, Tea, Chocolate, Venison Pasty, Punch, and Beer or Cyder, upon one Board: Their Dinner, good Beef, Veal, Mut- ton, Venison, Tttrlcieji and Geese, wild and tame. Fowls boil'd and roasted; and perhaps somewhat more niilk of the Colony is of the Episcopal Persuasion, with a grand Mixture of divers other Sects. The Women are very handsome in general, and most notable House- wives ; every Thing wears the Marks of Cleanliness and In- dustry in their Houses ; and their Behaviour to their Hiisbands and Families is very edifying. You can't help observing, however, an Air of Reserve, and somewhat that looks at first, to a Stranger, like Unsociableness, which is barely the Effect of living at a great Distance from frequent Society, and their thorough Attention to the Duties of their Stations. Their Amusements are quite innocent, and within the Circle of a Plantation or two, they exercise all the Vir- tues that can raise one's Opinion of the too light Sex. I would premise here, that I am not writing any Thing yet of the moie refin'd Part of the Colony, but what I say now is confin'd to a Tract of about 200 miles ; for in some other Parts 3'ou'll find many Coquettes and Prudes, as well as in other Places ; nor, perhaps, may the Lap~Dog or Monkey be forgotten. Hail delightful Sex ! would you divest your- selves of but some few Foibles ; would you attend some- what more to the Knowledge of yourselves, and turn your Eyes inwards ; had not the rolling Chariot, the shining Bing, the Indian Exoticks, the Frenchlfi/d Affectation, the gay Coxcomb, more Charms than Knowledge, Decency, Pru- dence, Discretion and Merit, how happy would you be ! But to roll on in a continual Round of senseless Impertinence, will never, never, raise you to the Character or Situation of these American Wives. My God ! what a different View has the Representation ! the one a Piece where every Figure on the Canvas glows with native Ease, Grace and Proportion ; no iriNEEANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. 47 no artful Heiglitnings, no absurd Conceit, has debas'd the great Designer, Nature : On the contrary, turn your Eyes this Way ; what Figures are these ? From what distant Chme were they imported ? From the Region of sickly Whim, and the Designer sure, Hke Rabelais, was resolv'd to paint some Beings that were too odd to exist any where else : What a Load of Ornaments, and a Glare of Colours, that quite hurt the Eye in looking on the Piece ! nor is there one true smiling Stroke, one Grace, nor one Beauty in the whole DeUneation. What's female beauty, but an air divine, Thro' which the soul's unfading lustres shine ? She, like a sun, irradiates all between ; The body charms, because the mind is seen. Incert. Auot. I should busy myself more in the descriptive Part of my Journal whilst in this Colony, did I not reserve myself, till my Arrival in Virginia; for there is such a Connection be- tween the Trade and Nature of the Soil, and the Commodi- ties they raise and export, that one general Account will serve for both : Nor do the two Countries appear much of a different Form ; for in the Uplands of Marijland, they are as mountainous, and abound in Valleys as much as they do in Virginia. For this Reason, I wave those Matters till I arrive there, and insist so much on the Manners and Tempers of the Inhabitants and the Genius of this Country. They have some considerable Seminaries of Learning in the two Colonies ; but the Williamshurglt College in Virginia is the Resort of all the Children, whose Parents can afford it : and there they hve in an academical Manner ; and, really, the Masters were Men of great Knowledge and Dis- cretion 48 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. cretion at tins Time ; tlio' it can't yet vie with those excel- lent Universities, for I must call them so, of the Massa- chusetts ; for the Youth of these more indulgent Settlements, partake pretty much of the Petit Maitre Kind, and are pamper'd much more in Softness and Ease than their Neighbours more Northward. Those that can't afford to send their Children to the better Schools, send them to the Country School-Masters, who are generally Servants, who after serving their Terms out, set up for themselves, and pick up a Livelihood by that, and writing Letters, and keeping Books for their illiterate Neighbours. Often a clever Servant or Convict, that can write and read tolerably, and is of no handicraft Business, is indented to some Planter, who has a Number of Children, as a School- Master, and then, to be sure, he is a tip-top Man in his Parts, and the Servant is us'd more indulgently than the generality of them. As I said before, the young Fellows are not much bur- den'd with Study, nor are their Manners vastly polite : But the old Gentlemen are generally a most agreeable Set of Companions, and possess a pretty deal of improving Knowledge ; nay, I know some of the better Sort, whose Share of Learning and Reading, would really surprize you, considering their Educations ; but this, to be sure, must be an after Improvement. One Thing they are very faulty in, with regard to their young Children, which is, that when young, they suffer them too much to prowl amongst the young Negros, which insensibly causes them to imbibe their Manners and broken Speech. The Girls, under such good Mothers, generally have twice the Sense and Dis- cretion of the Boys ; their Dress is neat and clean, and not ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMEEICA. 49 not much bordering upon the ridiculous Humour of the Mother Country, where the Daughters seem dressed up for a Market. 'Tis an odd Sight, that except some of the very elevated Sort, few Persons wear Perukes, so that you would imagine they were all sick or going to Bed : Common People wear Woolen and Yarn Caps ; but the better ones wear white Holland or Cotton : Thus they travel fifty Miles from Home. It may be cooler, for ought I know ; but, methinks, 'tis very ridiculous. They are all great Horsemen and have so much Value for the Saddle, that rather than walk to Church five Miles, they'll go eight to catch their Horses, and ride there ; so that you would think their Churches look'd like the Out- Skirts of a Country Horse Fair ; but then, as some Excuse it may be said, that their Churches are often very distant from their Habitations. An universal Mirth and Glee reigns in 3faryland, amongst all Ranks of People, and at set Times, nothing but Jollity and Feasting goes forward : Musick and Dancing are the everlasting Delights of the Lads and Lasses, and some very odd Customs they have at these Merry-makings : You would think all Care was then thrown aside, and that every Misfortune was buried in Oblivion. In short, my Spirits have been sometimes raised so much, that I have almost forgotten I was of another Clime, and have wish'd m^^self for ever amongst them; Adieu ! happy People ! For the Favours I have reaped at your Hands, Gratitude shall ever fill my Breast : I leave you but to return again,* once * TIte Autlior was again in Maryland /or som Time and many of Die detach'd Obsercalions were made then, tlioujh he cliose to interweave wWi this sliort Tour. 60 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. once more to partake of your Halcyon Feasts, and hearty jovial Mirth. For now, with glafl'ned eyes we view the bounds Of that fam'd colony, from whence the weed, The salutiferous plant, that sends the breast From noxious vapours of th' inclement morn, Provocative to solid, studious tho't, Derives its birth and use ; the land that erst Employ'd the labours of our virgin queen, And still is sacred to Eliza's fame.f t.S'e* the motto. [To he continued some other Time.] P. 572. Observations in several Voyages and Travels i America. Continued from our Magazine of July last, p. 330. IN leaving these Lowlands of Maryland and passing into Virginia^ you find the Scene greatly alter'd; and the Hills and Dales, with more frequent Plantations, seem, en- tirely, to take off the Rudeness of the Country's Aspect. The Roads, also, thro' the Counties of Acomoco and North- ampton, save here and there, are equal to most in England; tho' not near so commodious, as in the Counties on the other Side of the Bay. You pass over several considerable Rivers, and Branches, and find many lofty and commodious Bridges ; whilst the same Hospitality, Simplicity, and Honesty reigns amongst the Inhabitants, as in the Part of Maryland, I have just traced : Indeed, you find greater and more considerable Marks of Opulency; and we begin to regale with excellent Wines, good Brandies and Rum, and, here and there, with English Porter, which is imported generally in Bottles. Trade, also, seems to flow in a brisker Channel ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMEBIC A. 51 Channel and the Stores of the Merchants to be better provided ; nor are the Gentlemen a little vain, of their being a Part of the King's Government, and look down with an Air of Contempt, upon the neighbouring Patentee Colonies. The Inhabitants on the Western S J tore are supply' d with prodigious Quantities of Beef, Pork and Grain from this E'lsteni Shore, as they call thorn, by Way of Distinction ; to whom they give, also, ironically, the Epithet of Buckskins, alluding to their Leather Breeches, and the Jackets of some of the common People; which is, all over Virtjinia, as great a Reproach, as in England, to call a man Oaf, or Clown, or Liihherkln. This Eastern Shore is a Neck of Land, resembling a Peninsula, having its Junction, in about 40 N. with the Main Land, somewhat above Annapolis, near Balti- more and Elsinhurg, upon the Frontiers of Pensilvania, . where the Delaware Bay, and River, forms, to the East, and the Heads of Chesapeak Bay, to the Westward, a Kind of Isthmus ; and thence, trending away South- Easterly, ter- minates at Gape Charles, nearly in Lat. 37^, and is one of the Arms, that confines the noblest Bay in the Universe : tho', with all Winds it is not so convenient to ride in, as having a dangerous Plenty of Sands, Sholes, and Reefs, that have prov'd very often full of Distress. In this Bay, the whole Navies of Great Britain, Holland and France, might ride at Anchor ; it being, from JIagidi Bay, to the Entrance of York River, more than 20 Miles over and into which, a a Number of the noblest navigable Rivers disembogue themselves, which you may, as far as Eyes can reach, see overspread with waving Forests of European vessels, and a lesser Tribe, who trade from ohore to Shore, and exchange their own Products for those of their Neighbours. The common 52 ITINEKANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. common Harbour for Men of War, in this Station, is Sai-aJi's Creek, on the Glocenter side of York River; which a late Commander, the thrice renown'd Sir Yel, Peace be to his Ashes render'd as shamefully famous, as ever Turtle Bay was render'd by P or E s ; or Hohoaio, by some others. But to return ; we made two Stages, from Aroinoco Court House ; lying at Pangofear/ the first Night, and at the Ferry House at Magidi Bai/ (where a Chaloiipe attends to transport Passengers and their Horses to York, Norfolk, GloceMer, James Town, or other Parts, at a Pistole a Horse and Man) the second Day, being two Days and a half from the Lim., the Distance being more than 100 Miles from Snow Hill in Maryland. There are no considerable Towns on this Shore, only a few scatter'd Hamlets, particularly at the Court Houses of the two Counties, which renders them far less polite than the Inhabitants on the other Side of the Bay, where large Towns abound, and, which are the Rendezvous of the several Tobacco Fleets that sail from Europe; but to make Amends, it may, with Regard to their Honesty, and Kindness to one another, and to Strangers, be justly call'd the Elysiaji Fields of Virginia. I shall have, again, Occasion to mention this Part of the Colony, I find, when I begin to enter into the Nature of the Tobacco Trade. No sooner the Morning dawn'd, than we rous'd from our Beds, and address'd ourselves to our Voyage, in one of those delicious Mornings, in which Nature seems to take Pride, in displaying her whole Profusion of Charms ; and when a Wretch must be quite inanimate, not to rejoice with the whole Creation at the infinite Kindness and Benevolence of Providence. All hail ! Eternal Sovereign of the Universe ! Low on this sandy Beach, surrounded with these venerable Shades, ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS ill AMERICA. 53 Shades, and whilst the Waves are laving at my Feet, let me adore the great, the awful Dispositions of thy creating Wis- dom ! Alas ! how my Importance droops, and how inconsid- erable I appear ; M'hen, but now, I imagin'd myself one of the Lords of this Globe, and rashly suggested to myself, that all these mighty Stores of Blessings were intended to solace and delight Mankind alone ! But if so, why are the most re- mote Regions so bespangled with thy Goodness : Regions but lately known, and yet, scarce one ten thousanth Part peopled ? My Mind opens ; surely ; thy wise In- tention was to excite the Benevolence of thy more happy Creatures, and to make thy saving Health known to all Nations, by spreading the Knowledge of true Religion and Virtue, even amongst the sable Inhabitants of these lovely Deserts. After being victualled for our Voyage, which generally employs three or four Hours, and we had gotten our Bag- gage and Part of our Attendants on board, we ourselves step'd into a small Punt,* and put off to the Shallop; which by Reason of the Shallowness of the Water, lay at Anchor near a mile from Shore, and beyond a very ugly Reef, on wliich the Waves broke with great Fury ; attended by scores of Porpoises, who were wantoning about us. We had very nearly gained the Vessel, when two of these stupid Hogs came souse against one Side of the Punt, and overturn'd us, just upon the back of the Shoal. \To be continued.] N. B. The Gentleman who has appear'd in our Collection, under the Characters of Americus, Cynicus, Ciniher, Histo- ricus, is the Author of the Itinerant Observations in America. * A very small and dangerous Sort o/Canoa, liable to be overturn'd by the least 'Motion of the SiUert in it. Tlie Negroes manage them very dextrously, with a Paddle. 54 ITINERANr OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. p. 620. OusEKVATloNS in severai Voyages a/icZ Travels in America. Continued from our Magazine for November 1746, page 573 ; and concluded. THE Pain we are sensible of in our last Moments, must be very trivial, when no foregoing Apprehension of our Dissolution has intruded itself on our Minds, fraught with all the gloomy Terrors, so naturally represeutant to us, on this awful Occasion. Here, no real Danger, at first, could be imagin'd ; for being good Swimmers, a Circum- stance of great Account in travelling in this Country, the escaping on Shore again, could be no great Trouble ; but in the very first Stroke, bruising my Arm against the Buoy of the Anchor, I was so disabled, as to be driven with the Tide, precipitately, and with so much Violence into the Current, running directly out to Sea, that I soon lost all Sense of my forlorn Condition. Refiection, as near as I can guess, did not long remain, and two Seconds put me in the State of an Inanimate. Only, continual Roarings, and various unforni'd Sounds, intruded upon my Ears for some Time, and then, as it were, I ceas'd to be. King of Terrors ! thou perpetual and everlasting Dread of the human Race, in how man}^ different Ways thou surprizest unhappy Mortals ! No Fences can keep thee out, and thou work'st thy Purposes, often, with the most unforeseen and most minute Instruments ! Lingering, all pale and emaciated, on a Bed of lengthened Sickness ; all but the deploring Eye, and the conscious Principle, lost to their Functions ; how dreadful the Situation ! But, prepar'd by a constant Endeavour to do good, and inspir'd with a Re- gard to the Dictates of Morality and Virtue, conducted by a humane Tiu'n of Mind ; how eligible this quick Transition from ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. ^5 from Life to Deatli ! Here, then, is one principal Qualifi- cation of a Traveller, so to conduct his Steps as to be ready at every Stage, to enter that Eternal Mansion or Resting Place, where Pains shall lose their Sting, and Cares shall vex no more ! Hurry'd down the Stream thus, and quite lost to myself, I had soon been lost to my Friends, had not my worthy Associate pursu'd my floating Coarse, and overtaken it, at near half a Mile from the Vessel : When instantly, seizing me by one Arm, and getting me on his Shoulders, he recover'd a Canoa, which had been dispatch'd fi'om Shore, after us, and, in my first Signs of recover'd Sense, I found myself in Bed, surrounded by a weeping Crew, and my dear Deliverer spent with Fatigue by me, in a little better Situation than myself. But ah ! thou'rt fled,* and now exists no more, In mortal semblance ! dearest shade, attend ! Ah ! hover o'er me with thy angel wings I And chase away the grief that hurts my soul ; Grief, endless grief, for thy untimely fats ! Cou'd rocks and sands, or warring waves, conjoin'd, With howling winds, or all the hideous tribe Of savages, that prowl the desart waste ; Could these and more have wing'd thy latest hour, We jointly then had render'd up our breath, Happy to fall united ! Now alone, I wander comfortless from place to place, And, like the shipvvreck'd mariner, aghast, On some curs'd barren shelve, I seek in vain, With wandering eyes for help in my dcsjiair. The first Emotion I experienced was that of the most lively and piercing Gratitude to Providence, and the Arm that ' This GetUkman died aflerwardt in Jamaica. 56 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. that saved me from the deep Abyss ; that Cave of continued Destructions.t In two or three Days we embark'd, being perfectly re- cover'd, and address'd ourselves once more to the Passage ; and here, how can I help sketching out the various Beauties and Adornments of Nature, that elucidated our pleasing Voyage ? Suppose us now near 10 Miles from either Shore, about the Meridian of one of the most transporting Days, that could have occurred for us, whilst every storm Is hush'd within its cavern, anil a breeze, Soft-breathing, lightly with its wings, along, The slacken'd cordage glides ; the .sailor's ear Perceives no sound, thro'out the vast expanse. None but the murmurs of the sliding prow. Which gently parts the smooth and azure main. Glover. The golden Rays of the Sun darting thro' the Gloom of the surrounding Woods, and reflected upon the translucent Face of the watry Plain, gave so lively a Perspective Draught of the circumjacent Country, that we were at a Loss whether to fix our admiring View upon the Reality, or the Representation. These Woods everywhere diver- sify'd with interspersed Plantations, by their reverend Gloom, seemed the Retreat of some antient Druids; nor could I forbear a kind of Reverence for so awful a Scene, reaUy much calculated for a Seat of superstitious Rites and Cere- monies ; where not a Sigh of the softest Zephyr, but in a mournful, melancholy Whisper, is heard thro' the whole Forest, \Set iomt Lines umler Ihe nUe of Fi<1enia or The Explanation, in Uie Loudon Magazine, March 17-44, paj/e 147. ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. 57 Forest, and seems even to form articulate Sounds : Whilst now and then the long pausing Scream of the TurJiij, or the quick, smart Cry of the Paroquet, interrupts the respon- sive Lays of the Turtle, and the rest of the musical Choir, and passes in thrilling Chorus from Grove to Grove, from Brake to Brake ; whilst imitative Echo fondly retains the Sound. Who can, here, help recalling to his Mind, the Fauns and Satyrs of the Antients ; their Fables of Diana, and her Virgin Train, and their whole beautiful Decoration of the Sylvan Scene ? When these Fables were first sung, even the now despoiled and desart Regions of AcJiaia, and the Territories of Italy, Gaul and Britain, bore just such an Aspect ; so buried in the Depth of almost impassable Woods, and the Inhabitants of some of them little more civilized than the Indian Natives of these Regions. And no doubt, but in Proportion to the Increase of our Colonies, the Manners of the antient Possessors may be polish'd, and their brutal Fierceness tam'd ; seeing so many potent Nations are exhausted, already, by their intestine Wars, or Broils with the Europeans, that they are in the whole America not half so much Importance as they were 100 Years ago. Nay, many Nations live amongst the English, there being several Settlements of them in New-England, Maryland, Georgia, &c., and in the first-nam'd Place, whole Tribes who have embrac'd the Christian Religion, and have Teachers of their own set apart to the Ministry. Like our Preoccupiers, the Antient Britons, the Indians, perform all religious Ceremonies and Mysteries in the deepest Retreat of the Woods ; and inur'd from their Infancy to heroic Idleness, and Hunting for Subsistence, they esteem the open Savannah or the Corn-Field, no farther than for Profit, whilst H 68 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. whilst their choice Hours of Pleasure are generally sought in the Shade. I remember to have asked the famous Toanahoioi, so caress'd in England some years ago, by the Royal Family, how he Hk'd that Country ? He told me, they were a good People, but that it was a poor Country, and he could not live in it, because they had no Woods nor Deer, but what were kept in some Gardens ; for so he stil'd the Parks of England* But to return : The Infinity of Sloops and Barks that appeared every where around, the fine Vista's up York and James Rivers, and other navigable Streams, the prodigious Flights of Wild Fowl, that darken'd the Air, all in their native Strains hj^mning the Great Creator ; the Albicores, Dolphins, and Porpoises wantoning on every Side, and a long, long View of the wide Ocean with a whole Fleet of Vessels in the Offing, tumbling in the Calm, and reeling their lofty, unsteady Heads ; the Lowing of the goodly Kiue, the Bleating of the Sheep, the Neighing of the useful Steed, and the Cries of the laborious Husbandman, plung'd us into an admiring Extasy : Nor could we forbear to exclaim. How manifold are thy Works,, Lord ! In Wisdom hast thou made them all ! The Earth is full of thy Biches : So is this great and wide Sea, wherein are Things creeping innumerable, both small and great Beasts: There go the Ships, Szc. A delicious Moonlight Night succeeded this brilliant Day, and exhibited still new and more delect- able Scenes of Wonder, and Millions of unknown Regions, the Work of an eternal, unbounded Creation. Lost in the Contemplation of these Blessings ! Struck with such a Field of Thi$ Indian was kiU'd at the. head nf his People, valiantly fighting, as an Auxiliary Party to the English, by the Yaniasoes, in the year 1743, ami luas interr'd loilh military Honours at Fort Wil- liam. He was Son to the Great Mieo Tomo CUaotii, and always bore an extreme Regard to the English. He had however this Satisfaction, to see most of the Yamasees cut off before Ite expired. ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. 59 of Magnificence ! Exclamation and Rapture is succeeded by the lowest Adoration, and the most unfeigned Praises ! Where'er we stir, where'er we look or move, All, all is him, aud every where is Jove. LUOAN. At Eight the succeeding Morning, we discover'd the red Cliffs of York Town, and the opposite Town of Gloucester ; and sure nothing could form a more romantick Sight. The Place being somewhat situated like Dover, and the Town standing on a Descent, you can only perceive 3 or 4 Houses at first View, and scarce any Thing presents itself, but these steep, sandy Banks, dug into an infinite Number of Holes and Caverns, and the Battery of Guns before the Town upon the Pitch of the Bluff. YorTx-Town, Capital of the County of that Name, is sit- uated on a rising Ground, gently descending every Way into a Valley, and tho' but straggliugly built, yet makes no in- considerable Figure. You perceive a great Air of Opulence amongst the Inhabitants, who have some of them built themselves Houses, equal in Magnificence to many of our superb ones at St. James's ; as those of Mr, Lightfoot, Nelson, &c. Almost every considerable Man keeps an Equipage, tho' they have no Concern about the different Colours of their Coach Horses, driving frequently black, white, and chestnut, in the same Harness. The Taverns are many here, and much frequented, and an unbounded Licentiousness seems to taint the Morals of the young Gentlemen of this Place. The Court-House is the only considerable publick Building, and is no unhandsome Structure. The amiable Hospitality I have just pass'd an Eulogium upon, on the other Side the Bay, seems on this Shore 60 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS hi AMERICA. Shore to have found no great Footing : Schemes of Gain, or Parties of Gaming and Pleasure, muddy too much their Souls, and banish from amongst them the glorious Pro- pensity to doing good. The most considerable Houses are of Brick ; some handsome ones of Wood, all built in the modern Taste : and the lesser Sort, of Plaister. There are some very pretty Garden Spots in the Town ; and the Avenues leading to WiUiainshurg, Norfolk, &c., are prodi- giously agreeable. The Roads are, as I said before, some of the best I ever saw, and infinitely superior to most in England. The Country surrounding is thickly overspread with Plantations, and the Planters live, in a Manner, equal to Men of the best Fortune ; some of them being possess'd of 500 or 1000 1. a Year, Sterling. Gloucester, Hampton, and Norfolk, are Towns of near the same Structure, there being little Difference, save that at the last mention'd Place, a Spirit of Trade reigns, far sur- passing that of any other Part of Virginia. A great Number of Vessels are fitted out from thence, to trade to the North- ward and the West-Indies ; and the Inhabitants are, from their great Intercouse with Strangers, abundantly more refin'd. But before I leave York entirely, I should just mention the Batterj', that is the Defence of the Town, which at this Time was under the Direction of an aukward Enghieer, by Trade a Barber, and is as despicably contviv'd for the Safety of the Place, as it, no doubt, would be con- ducted in a Time of Danger. Indeed, Virginia, is quite an open Country to the Incursions of an Enemy, having little to resist an Attack by Sea, but the Men of War station'd there, whicli are generally two or three. In a Land Expe- dition from the Natives, or French and Spaniards, indeed, their ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. 61 their Numbers, 'tis hop'd, will always protect them, seeing that they could assemble at the shortest Warning, a Militia of 18 or 20,000 Men. They have also some Forts towards the Apalaches, which bridle the Indianft, and secure the Trade with them. Williamsburgh is a most wretched contriv'd Affair for the Capital of a Country, being near three Miles from the Sea, in a bad Situation. There is nothing considerable in it, but the College, the Governor's House, and one or two more, which are no bad Piles ; and the prodigious Number of Coaches that croud the deep, sandy Streets of this little City. It's very surprizing to me, that this should be pre- ferr'd to James- Town, Hampton, or some other Situations I could mention. Here the Courts of Justice are held, and with a Dignity and Decorum, that would become them even in Europe. The present Lieut. Governor Gooch is much beloved by every one, and by his mild and agreeable Dis- position, diffases Content every where around. The Posts that are most stickled for here, are the Office of Secretary, which is said to be worth 900 1. per Annum ; and the being Naval Officers to the several Counties, which are Places of good Profit, We embark'd at Yorl', in a Sloop bound for Frederica in Georgia, immediately weigh'd, and past Cape Henry with a brisk and favourable Gale ; but when we were abreast of Gape Hatteras, the Wind chop'd about, and drove us for 8 Daj's successively off the Coast, in the most violent Storms that ever I experienc'd ; and having reckon'd it as only a Run of 3 or 4 Days, our Provisions were too small in Quantity for the Time we were likely to remain in this Situation. Add to this, a Vessel that could hardly keep above 62 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMEKICA. above Water, slie was so foul and rotten, and no Hands that could be of Service, but the Master, a Negro Fellow, and a Boy : For our Lading consisted of all the Scum of Virginia, who had been recruited for the Service Of Georgia, and who were ready at every Turn to mutiny, whilst they belch'd out the most shocking Oaths, wishing Destruction to the Vessel and every Thing in her ; nor would offer the least Hand to help in this Distress : Nay, they would not be persuaded even to go upon Deck for the Discharge of Nature ; but performing all those Offices below, we began to fear a Plague as well as Drowning. The Master, on the other Side, in a superstitious Fit, was for casting Lots who should be the Jonah of the Ship, being sure, he said, there was some Murderer on board; and 'twas with Difficulty we kept him to his Duty, upon not complying with his Request. I shall never lose the Idea of this Creature and his Ab- surdities ! Thus then we pass'd so many Nights and Days in miserable Want and Distress, expecting ever_y Minute when the Sloop would part and founder in the drear Abyss. see forked glare The livid ligbtnia? thro' the vast expanse, And hark hoarse thunder arowls with deaf ning roar. See, born aloft, our mast pervades the skies. And now vsre're buried in the gulph below, Dreadful vicissitudes ! On the Ninth Day in the Morning the Wind happily subsided, and on the Eleventh we found ourselves a-breast of Cape Fear ; and then, to our great Satisfaction, a Wind sprung up, that in four Days more brought us to the End of our Voyage, weaken'd with Fatigue, and almost dead with Hunger, having liv'd for some Time on Biscuit and Inrlian Pease ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS ill AMERICA. 6^ Pease in small Quantities. We cast Anchor in >S'^. Simons Harbour, and immediately debarking, set out for Frederica. Ours is the useful life, tho' want and anguish, Famine, and all the various train of Evils, That human nature shrinks at, oft conspire To check our frailty in the glorious race. To the Author of the London Magazine : SIR, I HAVE now sent you what Parts would be agreeable of my Friend's Performance for your Collection, and thank you for inserting them. His whole Work, of which these may serve as so many Specimens, will soon be sent to Press, and adorn'd with Draughts of the principal Places he has seen. The Reason I have not sent you his Account of Neio York and Albany, is, that they are too dijffusive for your Design, and interwoven with several Dissertations, that would be too prolix for your Readers ; for which Reason I have also left out the Dissertation on the Tobacco Trade, and several important Matters relative to Virginia and Maryland, which might not be so properly retail'd out in this Manner. The same Reasons I gave you* for not touch- ing further on Carolina and its City Charles- Town, and other Places ; and as to his Voyages to and from Europe, Remarks on Scotland and the North of England, and coast- ing Voyage from thence, (&c., they did not come within the Title we first set out under, viz.: Itinerant Observations in America. As to his Account of Florida, you have the Sub- stance *See London Magazine, March, 1746, p. 125. 64 ITINERANT OBSERVATIONS in AMERICA. stance of it in a Pamphlet lately publisli'd by liim.* Thus ha-\dng wound up my Bottom, it may not be amiss to give the Order in which it would be proper to peruse what Itinerant Observations you have in your Magazine, viz.: to begin with March, 1746, then proceed to May, July, Novem- ber, and December, 1746, then those in August, November and December, 1745 ; which preserves the Chain of the Narrative. I ain. Yours, &g., Anonymus. *Ezpedition to St. Augustine, printed for T. Astley in the Tear 1744.