'Jndian I 18th Century Watering Place THE INDIAN SPRINGS HOTEL AS A NINETEENTH-CENTURY WATERING PLACE by Martha F. Norwood Copyright State of Georgia Department of Natural Resources Office of Planning and Research Historic Preservation Section Atlanta, Georgia 1978 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2013 http://archive.org/details/indianspringshotOOnorw DEDICATED TO Mr. Paul Varner and Mrs. Birdie Varner Sanders Who, in their lifetimes, had the foresight to collect and preserve the historical papers of the Varner family and the Indian Springs Hotel, which have shed much light on important aspects of our state's history. FOREWORD In 1975, the State of Georgia, Department of Natural Resources, purchased an early 19th century hotel, known as the Mcintosh Inn, in Indian Springs, Butts County, Georgia. It was purchased under the Georgia Heritage Trust, a program created in 1972 to identify, protect and preserve Georgia's cultural, natural and recreational resources and administered by the Department of Natural Resources. This hotel was chosen as a Heritage Trust site because of its connection with Creek Indian Chief William Mcintosh and the Treaty of Indian Springs, signed in this building in 1825. It was this connection also that led the previous owner to call the site the Mcintosh Inn, a name applied to it in 1953. During most of its long history however, the hotel was known as the Indian Springs Hotel and, in its declining years, as the Varner House. It will therefore be referred to in this paper by its historical name, the Indian Springs Hotel. Immediately upon acquisition of the site, the Department of Natural Resources began research on the history of the hotel with regard to the Creek Indians. This resulted in a lengthy and well-documented account of William Mcintosh, the treaty and Creek culture in general, but including only a limited discussion of the history of the site after 1828. Therefore, in 1977, research was begun on the history of the hotel from 1828 to the present. It had become evident in the original report that the Indian Springs Hotel, even by 1828, was a favorite with both Indians and Whites as a health resort, where it was reported that visitors could find relief for many illnesses by drinking or bathing in the waters of the Indian Spring. Such resorts were known in the 19th century as "watering places." By 1830, the Indian Spring and its namesake, the Indian Springs Hotel, had become the most popular "watering place" in Georgia and would remain so until the 1920s, when such resorts were no longer in vogue. It is this aspect of the history of this famous hotel that will be addressed here, building on the documentation given in the first report and serving as a sequel to it. The first report, entitled The Mcintosh Inn~~ Place in Creek Indian History, was written by Sherry L. Boatright. The history of this site is significant to several areas of Georgia's history which have been somewhat neglected. In addition to Creek Indian data, it has provided insight into what Georgians did with their leisure time in the 19th century, how people dealt with illness, political activity of the period, the migration of the pecple westward and the subsequent establishment of Georgia's western boundaries, and early architecture. The research and data compiled within these two departmental reports will be used as the basis of the restoration and interpretation of the Indian Springs Hotel. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS A finished product is rarely the creation of a single individual. So it is with this report. It is bas8d on primary and secondary material made available to this author by other historians and by individuals and groups who collect data for use by historians in interpreting the history of our state. Much of the material in this report is from the Varner Collection. When this research was begun, these papers were in the possession of branches of the Varner family in Darien and Thomaston, Georgia. They relate to the history of the inn and the family who owned it from 1850 until 1953 -- Edward and Cynthia Varner and their descendants. The careful collection and preservation of these valuable papers by members of the Varner family, particularly the late Mr. Paul Varner and Mrs. Birdie Varner Sanders, have enabled us to learn more about this site than was anticipated when research began. The Varner family has recently donated these papers, numbering over one thousand, to the Georgia Historical Society so that other researchers may benefit from the wide variety of data that they contain. The author is grateful to Mrs. E.R. Rountree (formerly Mrs. Paul Varner) and Mrs. Becky Watts for making these papers available, and to Mr. Peter Schinkel, Manuscripts Division, Georgia Department of Archives and History, and Mr. Anthony Dees, Director, Georgia Historical Society, for their roles in acquiring and processing the collection. Many others have assisted the author by supplying data and assisting with research, including: Ms. Sherry Boatright, author of the original report; Mr. James Cornell, owner of the Elder Hotel, Indian Springs; Ms. Lois McMichael, Jackson, Georgia; Mr. and Mrs. Jesse Newsome, Varner descendants of Sandersville, Georgia; Ms. Therese Newton, Varner descendant of Madison, Georgia; Mr. Earl Varner of Swainsboro, Georgia; Mr. David M. Sherman, Mr. Kenneth H. Thomas, Jr., and Mr. Morton R. Mcinvale of the Georgia Department of Natural Resources, Office of Planning and Research, Historic Preservation Section; the staff of the Georgia Department of Archives and History; Mr. David J. Ka~insky and Mr. Edward Brock of the Georgia Department of Natural Resources for duplicating old photographs which appear in this report; and Ms. Sandra L. Bayer for editing and typing the final copy. TABLE OF CONTENTS FOREWORD ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS PART I. NINETEENTH CENTURY WATERING PLACES: AN 1 OVERVIEW PART II. THE INDIAN SPRINGS HOTEL: A CASE STUDY OF A 25 NINETEENTH CENTURY WATERING PLACE Ch. 1 The Indian Springs Hotel: A Description 26 Ch. 2 The First Two Decades 50 Ch. 3 Henry Dillon and the Indian Springs 72 Hotel: 1839-1849 Ch. 4 A Short History of the Varner Family 93 Ch. 5 ThP. Indian Springs Hotel: 1850-1860 120 Ch. 6 The Declining Years of the Indian 148 Springs Hotel APPENDICES 168 A. Items from the Varner Family Papers 169 B. Accounts of Political Gatherings 202 C. Mineral Spring Hotels: 1820~1920 212 BIBLIOGRAPHY 218 ILLUSTRATIONS Recent Drawings and Photographs of the Indian Springs Hotel 1828 Plat of Indian Springs Amanda and Joe Varner Joe Varner Photograph of the Indian Springs Hotel as it was in the late 19th century "Bill of Fare" for Varner's Hotel, 1859 Amanda and Jne Varner at the Indian Springs Hotel The Wigwam Hotel, Indian Springs The Foy Hotel, Indian Springs The Elder Hotel, Indian Springs The Bath House at Indian Springs Lamar's Mill at Indian Sfrings Bridge over Big s~~dy Creek, Indian Springs Page 35-49 54 104 109 122 126 153 158 159 160 162 163 164 PART I NINETEENTH-CENTURY WATERING PLACES: AN OVERVIEW Who are going to the Springs this summer? The season advances,-those who are in ill health, and those who wish to travel, to lay aside their business during the warm weather and to seek a place where blows cool breezes amidst picturesque mountain scenery, where flows the purest, the healthiest mineral waters.-Those who wish to be merry and to enjoy the comforts, the pleasures and amusements of refined society, with all other luxeries [sic] and pasttimes of a summer retreat should commence their preparations for being off to the Springs. The widowers and the widows, the beauxs [sic] and the belles- the matrons and fathers and the little pledges of happiness, all smiling and gay, will be there! Ice creams, jellies, julips, and all that's good for an epicue's [sic] palate, as well as the dainties and dishes more substantial, wi!l be served up in the finest and best styles by the accommodating, polite, proprietors. The music and the dance will not be wanting, to enliven the young and cheer the old. What happy days of courting and cooing, of skipping and dancing, of eating and sleeping, will be past this pleasant summer, by the old and the young .... The Federal Union Milledgeville, Georgia May 29, 18451 As the 18th Century drew to a close, the United States embarked on a new era. The new nation was established and its laws agreed upon -- in general, peace prevailed and the people could begin to see life as more than a day-to-day existence. They could now become concerned with their chronic physical ailments and the pursuit of happiness in the social realm. The nation hed more leisure time. The "watering places" of the 19th Century evolved out of the times. People needed a place to go to socialize, to get away from the humdrum of daily life. They also sought cures for chronic diseases such as rheumatism, headaches, dyspep- sia, neuritis, kidney troubles, malaria, and various nervous disorders. 3 The knowledge of the alleged curative powers of mineral waters had come down through the ages from the Romans. As an advertisement for a resort in the 1880s succinctly stated it: "When the burden of life is made heavy by the loss of health, and youth, and becomes intolerable, the victim naturally looks around for some fountain at which he can drink and have the ether of life and nervous force renewed." 2 And so, to satisfy both the social and physical needs of these Americans, the spas or "watering places" were born. In the more northerly states, watering places flowered in the mid- and late-18th Century. But as with architecture, education and other socio-economic trends, the "springs mania" did not sweep Georgia until the 19th Century had begun, in this state that was lately settled and last to declare independence. The most notable watering places in the United States were in New York, where Saratoga Springs was hailed as that state's finest, and in Virginia, where the White Sulphur, the Hot (now the Homestead), the Chalybeate, Old Sweet with its Jeffersonian buildings and others were the center of Virginia society during the summer months. 3 These springs were widely visited by patients and pleasure-seekers from other states. The watering places of Georgia, which increased in number throughout the 19th Century, were not as elegant and never received such widespread acclamation,4 but to Georgians, theirs were the finest and were the center of Georgia society as well. In an article entitled "Georgia Watering Places" in an 1850 issue of the Journal and Messenger of Macon, the editors wrote: . . . No State in the Union has such an array of fine watering places as Georgia. Only think of it. We have the Warm Springs and the Sulphur Springs of Meriwether. The Indian 4 Springs, Springs, the and Madison Springs, the last, but not least, Gordon Sprin the Catoosa gs, the Cohutta [sic] Springs ... . 5 The editor went on to chastise those Georgians who might be contemplating visiting springs in the North, urging them not to spend thousands of dollars among "our abolitionist enemies there." 6 This editor only named a small percentage of springs that were in use at that time. Springs were so popular that as soon as one was discovered on a person's property, it was immediately made known to potential customers. Numerous advertisements such as the ones that follow can be seen in Georgia newspapers throughout the 19th Century. An advertisement in the Federal Union of 1838 stated that the subscriber had located a mineral spring on his place near Cassville, Cass County, that produced chalybeate, sulphur and limestone, and that he intended to build a boarding house. 7 In Monroe County in 1830, a gentleman advertised that he had discovered a mineral spring on his place and would rent tent sites or take a few boarders, calling it Spring Hill Retreat. 8 Not everyone agreed on the pleasures and comforts of these early spas, hmvever. Alexander H. Stephens, congressman, vice president of the Confederacy and governor of Georgia, visited the Warm Springs in the state in 1849. A man who took his illnesses seriously, Stephens never hesitated to speak critically if the occasion demanded it. Stephens' biographer, Von Abele, attributes these sentiments to him: It was a dismal interlude - for there were few more despressing things than the spas of the nineteenth century. It rained incessantly; there were goats on the piazzas of the buildings; the cabins were dirty with broken mirrors, uneven-legged chairs, and beds full of insects.9 Yet, advertisements and editorials of the 1840s acclaimed the excellent 5 accommodations to be had at Warm Springs. 10 Given the location of most Georgia springs in the rural, western areas o~ the state above the fall line, that were the frontier settled after 1820, and given the lack of modern facilities of that period, there was considerable basis in fact for this depressing description. However, few such accounts have come to light. Most visitors describe the facilities and the board as clean and comfortable and the fare as palatable. The fact that people did indeed flock to these watering places indicates that they were habitable and enjoyable. The exact number of springs in existence in a given year would be impossible to calculate. Some were simply day-use springs visited by local inhabitants, while others boasted commodious hotels, cabins, bathhouses and ballrooms. Some became traditionally notable, while others faded away soon after their discovery. Their success depended on several factors -- accessibility, facilities, amusement and the initiative of the proprietor. One historian states that there were "eleven principal springs in Georgia where politicians, lawyers, educators, theologists and planters spent summer months,"11 this being a count of the best known ones prior to the Civil War. Appleton's Handbook of American Travel, 1874, lists n1. ne ma.Jor spr1. ngs, 1. nc1ud"1ng I n d1. an Spr1. ngs. 12 But a search of 19th Century newspapers indicates a much larger number that actually existed, though many may have been operated for only short periods. [A listing appears in the appendix to this report.] By 1913, there were 170 known mineral springs in Georgia, though few had facilities attached to them. 13 The types of 19th-Century springs included White Sulphur, Red Sulphur, Chalybeate and Sweet Chalybeate, Limestone, Hot and Warm Springs, all 6 offering their wonderful panacea -- but only during the season, from June to September. The architecture of the watering places indicates a trend that was followed in most states and certainly in Georgia. Construction materials varied, depending on the abundance of stone or wood in an area. But whether brick, stone or frame, the hotels were at least two and often three stories, and usually had piazzas or verandas at each level on three sides of the building. 14 In Georgia, they were usually frame. In Alabama, according to James F. Sulzby in Historic Alabama Hotels and Resorts, "the three story hotel building was constructed on the traditional summer resort pattern with double verandas on three sides at each floor level."15 A description of antebellum Madison Springs, Georgia, describes the hotel as having a dining room 40' x 92', a ballroom 40' x 50', and 30 chambers. It was a two-story structure with an attic, and both floors were surrounded by 14-foot-wide piazzas flanked by 28 large square columns. 16 Catoosa Springs in 1850 boasted a three-story hotel, 120' x 70', with a basement for dining, 15-foot-wide piazzas all around and columns to the top.l7 The Mcintosh House at Indian Springs, advertising its opening in 1846, was described as having "70-80 rooms and piazzas extending all around 1. t .... 1118 The springs of Virginia, though often of stone or brick, were of similar architecture. The White Sulphur Hotel was a four-story brick building, while the Stribling Springs Hotel had three stories with a double port1. co. 19 The hotel at Salt Sulphur was described as "an enormous stone pile, four floors tall, hung with porticos and crammed with fireplaces, one to each room. " 20 This style of architecture vTas not without purpose. The piazzas allowed the guests to partake of nature's fresh 7 air and scenic vistas from the privacy of their rooms, thereby aiding in the restoration of their physical and mental well-being. These piazzas or verandas were also useful for social activities. When one thinks of watering places, a vision of long verandas with rocking chairs and couples strolling about comes to mind. Patrons of watering places were a varied lot, but one can safely assume that they were middle- and upper-class citizens who could afford the luxury of a vacation or who could indulge in the search for a cure of some chronic or psychosomatic illness. Many Georgians were, therefore, not caught up in the "springs mania." Poor farmers, struggling merchants and common laborers had little time or money for such extravagances. Those visiting a spring resort in 1850 would probably have met lawyers, doctors, planters, politicians, prosperous merchants or persons in literature or the arts, accompanied by their servants, for whom quarters were also available. Frequently, wives and children would stay for the entire summer season, with husbands joining them at intervals. Widows often visited the springs in search of romantic attachments. Professional men who were in need of a rest or diversion would spend a week or two at a time, with the promise of gay society an added inducement. 21 In general, what has been said of the patrons of the Virginia springs can be applied to Georgia: ... Southern families of quality came to the spas, no matter what the odds, for the unstated but steadfast purpose of finding suitable husbands for their pretty daughters ... to escape the grinding heat and malaria ... Here they met their own kind; families of proper lineage; and here, at the Springs, their pretty daughters met and became engaged to the handsome young gentlemen in residence for the summer. It was an e~ensive gambit, but very often it was worth the expense.22 8 The facilities at the springs ranged from a large complex of buildings with varied activities available for the more affluent guests to the small hotel with only the necessary outbuildings for the less pretentious, or somewhere along a spectrum between these extremes. New Holland Springs, in Clarke County, had a rustic hotel, numerous cottages and a pavillion over the spring. 23 White Sulphur, in Meriwether County, had a hotel, ballroom, cottages and lots for sale on which persons could erect their own cottages. 24 Catoosa Springs was described as having a three-story hotel, a row of neat cabins, billiard tables, a bowling alley and bath houses in 1850, one of the most elaborate claims of that period. 25 In 1832, Spring Hill in Monroe County had a two-story house, bar, convenient outhouses with or without chimneys for families, and tents. 26 In 1856, Monroe Springs in neighboring Monroe County, Alabama, had a large hotel, a winter residence for a family, ten-pin alley, billiard rooms and tables, "Negro houses", bath houses, two ballrooms and two stables. 27 Advertising in 1835, the proprietors of Madison Springs boasted of extensive halls and piazzas and good baths, and they stated that other buildings would be.added as needed. 28 A modern historian who has researched Madison Springs states that it had a hotel with dining room, ballroom, 30 chambers, two rows of cabins (some with four rooms), and stables. 29 Adiel Sherwood in his Gazeteer of Georgia in 1860, writing of Indian Springs, stated that t~1ere were several large hotels capable of accommodating 1,500 persons, as well as 30 to 40 cabins. Of Madison Springs, he noted a spacious hotel capable of housing 150 to 200 persons, a school kept during the summer season and a promise by the proprietors that cottages were soon to be erected.30 9 Many new hotels were built in the late-19th Century. The Wigwam Hotel, built ca. 1890 at Indian Springs, was said to be one of the largest frame structures in the world. 31 It was four stories high, with broad piazzas and balconies with gas lighting, a palatial dining room, bath houses, casino and bowling alleys. 32 The City Builder, reporting on springs after the turn of the 20th Century, reported that at Bowden Lithia Springs, $250,000 was being spent to improve the springs, including a 50-room hotel, swimming pools, golf links, lakes and other accommodations.33 In addition to those buildings advertised or described, one would also expect to have seen privies, stables, a smokehouse, possibly a detached kitchen, and other service buildings needed to accommodate a large group of visitors. So, any resort would be quite a complex of buildings. In addition, many people chose to rent or bring a tent and camp near the spring. This was many times a matter of preference or convenience, rather than a lack of money. Elizabeth Reid of Turnwold Plantation wrote in the 1860s that while she often visited the Indian Springs Hotel, her family also had a tent at Oconee Springs, which was nearer to her home. The tents, she stated, were pitched close to the spring, and she found these accommodations refreshing because of their primitive style. In a letter published in an 1888 newspaper, the writers stated that they preferred the1 r 11 cloth house or tent II an d t he II camp life. 1134 The proprietors of Hontpelier Springs stated in 1831: "Comfortable tents w1'11 be prepared for those who pre f er f urn1. sh1. ng t he1. r board . 1135 The proprietors of watering places, like resorts today, provided a variety of amusements for their guests. After all, few, if any, had illnesses that kept them bedridden. For those who, either from ill 10 health or choice, preferred inactivity, there were comfortable rockers along the verandas. As the guests sat and rocked, servants brought buckets of spring water to them. The buckets were passed along the rows of rockers, with a dipper in each bucket, several people using the same dipper from which to drink. 36 After the "connnodious hotel" advertised by the proprietors, the most frequently noted facility was the ballroom or "dancing salon." Warm Springs in 1843 advertised that " ... our ballroom will be opened every night- good music i s engaged .... 1137 White Sulphur Springs reported in the following year that its ballroom would be open every evening. 38 Antebellum Virginia spring Sweet Chalybeate had a separate building called the "dining and dancing salon." 39 At Shucco Springs in Warren County, North Carolina, in 1830, visitors were promised music and dancing with a special ball and party to be given on the sixth and seventh of July. 40 The innkeeper at Madison Springs in 1857 promised that a "fine band of music" had been procured for the season, 41 which would play for dancers in their 40' x SO' ballroom. 42 Monroe Springs in Alabama is said to have had two ballrooms. 43 All of the hotels at Indian Springs had ballrooms, and the Indian Springs Hotel advertised its ballroom throughout the 1840s and 1850s. Newspapers carried accounts of special dances held there, such as tne Leap Year Soiree in 1856 and the Grand Fancy Ball in 1859. 44 The Elder House owners in 1885 claimed to have "the handsomest ballroom to be found at any watering place,"45 and the Colliers of the Mcintosh House assured their patrons that a "band of music" had been secured for the 1856 season. 46 A letter describing a "grand fancy ball" at Madison Springs, dated 11 August 8, 1854, tells of the atmosphere and distinguished guest list: It was far more brilliant than anyone ventured to hope ... dazzling beauty, sparkling wit and mirthful fancy combining gave joyous revelry ... The ballroom was brilliantly lighted ... I noticed among the spectators Judge Lumpkin of Athens; Judge Starnes of Augusta; Dr. D'Antignac, Dr. Dugas and Gov. Schley of Augusta ... besides various from Georgia, South Carolina, Mississippi and Alabama ... the intelligent, witty and handsome Mrs. R. of Beaufort ... Dr. P. of Macon, Miss Y. of Mississippi, Miss G. of Mobile, Miss L. of Portland, Maine, as well as lots of others from Athens, Macon, Augusta and Charleston.47 For those who chose to indulge in spirits, there was ample opportun- ity for such pleasures. Antebellum Madison Springs had a "good bar with wine, whiskey and brandy,"48 and Shucco Springs offered the "choicest liquors" to their guests.49 In 1835, the proprietor of the Indian Springs Hotel stated that "his bar is supplied with excellent wines," 50 while a competitor in 1829 at the Mountain Spout Retreat also claimed to have the "choicest liquors."51 For the truly discriminating patron, the Alabama White Sulphur Springs, on the Georgia border near Chattanooga, in 1871 offered "the best champagnes, clarets, sherries, ports, ale, Porter, Guiness and others.n52 The fare was also an inducement. Montpelier Springs in 1838 boasted that 11 the table is abundantly and handsomely furnished, " 53 and in 1839 stated that "the table shall be constantly supplied with every delicacy the season and the surrounding countryside will furnish. "54 Bailey Springs in Alabama was noted for its cuisine in 1858. 55 Georgia's Madison Springs was said to be famous for its Southern cooking, the menu including chickP-n (100 cooked a day), waffles, biscuits, ham, beef, mutton, veal and pork.56 The Indian Springs Hotel menu offered a similar fare, including fresh vegetables from its garden. 57 Omaha Springs in 12 Jefferson County, which opened around 1880, had a garden which provided vegetables for meals at the hotel dining room, along with fried chicken, ham and homemade preserves and jellies. 58 The most unusual menu entry found during this research was at the Elder Hotel at Indian Springs. Still in operation today, the hotel yet serves ox tongue. The present proprietor, Mr. James Cornell, a descendant of the first owner, stated that this entree has been on the menu for decades, and guests who have been visiting there for many years still request it. 59 In addition to dancing and imbibing, there were other pleasures at the springs such as a billiard room, ten-pin or bowling alley, a small library, horseback riding, card games (particularly whist), and picnics. Obviously, the watering places catered not only to the weak in body, but also to the pleasure-seekers and the genteel society of the Old South. The success of a watering place often depended on its accessibility. Therefore, the proprietors were sure to include in their public notices directions for travelers, and in many cases, provided transportation themselves for the last segment of the trip. Before the railroad, stage lines bisected the state and offered the most widely used means of transportation to the springs. In 1833, Warm Springs proprietors stated that stages would run on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday from Greenville, intersecting with others.60 Hacks ran daily from Athens to nearby Hellicon Springs in 1836.61 The proprietors of Montepelier Springs in 1839 provided that "a carriage and horses with a careful driver, will leave the Springs every Monday, Wednesday and Friday for Macon and return every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday .... "62 In 1840, they also provided a good stable for those who came on horseback or in their own carriages with good ostlers to attend the horses.63 They also provided that year 13 that "visitors from the sea coast, on their arrival at Macon, will be taken direct on the Monroe Railroad to the Depot, where a carriage will always be waiting to take them to the Springs." 64 Warm Springs proprietor S.R. Bonner in 1843 wrote: ... Hacks run daily from Greenville- so that passengers can reach the Springs without delay - and at a very small price from Madison to Montgomery, as the opposition stages are still kept up, and they carry passengers frequently for their company. The Monroe Railroad runs within 55 miles of the Springs and daily lines of stages connect it also with Greenville. So the Savannah and Macon people can visit us without delay .... 65 The coming of the railroad ca. 1840 enhanced visitation to springs that were fortunate enough to be located near a rail line. A correspondent of the Augusta Chronicle and Sentinel in 1850 recommended Catoosa Springs because, among its other attractions, it was located only two miles from the railroad.66 For Indian Springs, the railroad came as far as Forsyth, approximately 20 miles south, and the hotel owners at the springs operated their own stage lines to Forsyth and back to meet the trains. 67 After the Civil War, only those springs which had been fortunate enough to have a rail line in the vicinity were able to survive. The train came within two miles of Indian Springs to a new town called Flovilla and a "dummy" or branch line brought visitors from Flovilla to the springs. 68 In Hot Springs, Arkansas, in 1881, a street railway was built mainly for use by invalids there. 69 Many hotel owners had special monetary arrangements with the railroad. For example, White Sulphur Springs in Florida in 1894 offered reduced rates upon all railroads to patrons of t he spr1. ngs. 70 As surely as convenient transportation to the springs in the 19th 14 Century was an inducement to potential visitors, the improved transportation in the 20th Century dealt the death blow to watering places. The coming of the automobile marked the end of the springs era. Harry Evans Woodward, writing of the demise of the Virginia springs, had it explained to him by an elderly resident of Sweet Chalybeate, now a retirement home for senior citizens, when she said: "That there thing you drove up in. That automobile. That killed the springs. People got to go, go, go. They don't want to sit and enjoy."71 Of course, the automobile cannot be held solely responsible. Modern medical knowledge and facilities soon disproved the claims of the 19th-Century proprietors, thereby removing their greatest attraction to visitors -- the fabulous cures of the waters. The above-mentioned inducements were really the "icing on the cake." The most outstanding "gimmick" for attracting patrons to a 19th-Century resort was the "spa", "watering place" or "mineral spring." People were looking for a panacea for their mental and physical ills. So, in order to succeed, the proprietors of resorts were required to offer some healthgiving power. In most cases, it was a mineral spring. One Georgia resort, however, proclaimed the curative powers of its "Rocks That Shock," along with a mineral spring. Hillman Spring in Taliaferro County drew many visitors to its rocks and waters in the 1890s, who claimed that there were rocks that "produce shocks similar to those from a battery." 72 The patients had "tingling sensaLions" and their "limbs shook." These rocks were said to cure "kidney disease, insonmia, loss of appetite, diseases peculiar to women, nervous prostration, over-indulgence in alcoholic stimulant, overtaxed mental facilities, general dibility and rheumatism."73 This resort was the exception to the rule, however. 15 The "spring" or "watering place" was the most widely advertised and patronized resort of the 19th Century. Every advertisement or account regarding a watering place proclaimed the vast curative powers of its waters while noting its facilities, amusements and scenery. The claims of the proprietors were typical of the times -- poetically worded, lengthy and greatly exaggerated. But they said what people wanted to hear. They offered an elixir for the ills of the world, and the people believed. And many were cured, for it is a simple fact that drinking clean water, having a healthy diet, plenty of fresh air, good company and relaxation can cure many chronic diseases and most imagined ones. Many of the advertisements and accounts for watering places are worthy of note. Today, we find them amusing. Yet, they were earnestly written and often are characterized by a certain literary flair, such as the one quoted at the beginning of this report. Following are some par- ticularly prosaic one~ which illustrate both the style of the advertise- ments and the alleged virtues of the waters. Warm Springs Meriwether County, Georgia August, 1843 This establishment is again open for the reception of visitors. We did our best to please last season, and will do the same this. We invite our old customers, and would be glad to see an abundance of new ones this season. Our charges will be the same as heretofore $30 per month including baths, etc., and we will receive in payment the same kind of funds, to-wit: Central and Alabama money, at par. Our baths are splendidly arranged - six in number - each ten feet square in the clear, and so arranged as to raise the water to any depth required. The spring affords upwards of thirteen hundred gallons of water per minute and the temperature is precisely 90 degrees just the right temperature for pleasant bathing - the water is highly medicinal. and is a certain cure for Rheumatism, Dyspepsia, etc. The analysis of the water is taken by Dr. John Rogers Catting, State Geologist of Georgia: .... 16 Height above the level of the sea, 79314 [sic] feet - quantity one wire pint, or 28,875 cubic inches - specific gravity .998- distilled water being 1,000 gasses .... Our ballroom will be opened every night - good music is engaged - good roads are made for riding and nothing shall be wanting on our part to render all comfortable. Hacks run daily from Greenville so that passengers can reach the Springs without delay - and at a very small price from Madison to Montgomery, as the opposition stages are still kept up and they carry passengers frequently for their company. The Monroe Railroad runs within 55 miles of the Springs and daily lines of stages connect it also with Greenville. So the Savannah and Macon people can visit us without delay. Any person afflicted with Rheumatism or Dyspepsia, who will visit these springs - remain during three summer months and are not completely cured (no matter how bad a case it is) if they bathe and drink the water regularly and pay proper attention to their diet, no charge will be made for board, etc .... June 21, 184374 S.R. Bonner I* * * Montpelier Springs Monroe County, Georgia June, 1840 The Montpelier House will be open for the reception of visitors on the lOth of June - This celebrated watering place is beautifully situated 16 miles west of Macon, and is nearly central to the State. Its location and scenery blend the advantages of health and pure air, with the charm of a romantic panorama of woods, and vales, and cultivated fields, at once interesting as a retreat to the valetudinarian - to the man of business, and the devotee of pleasure. The analysis of these waters having been laid before the public, I deem it unnecessary to say more than apply their medicinal properties to the healing art. In the mitigation and relief of the following diseases, they stand pre-eminent; Dropsey, hydropcephalus in infants, muasmus, teething, cholera infantum, rheumatism, sick headache, dyspepsia, bilious derangement and affection of the liver, diabetic and calculus disorders of the kidneys, flour albus, and diseases of females, herpetic and scrofulous eruptions of the skin, together with a variety of complaints originating from low and miasmatic districts of country. The BATHS, which are great restoratives of debilatative constitutions, will be kept in good order, and a careful Male and Female, to attend them. The chambers are large and airy, and 17 the servants will be found to be competent and attentive. The Table shall be constantly supplied with every delicacy the season and the surrounding countryside will furnish. - The Stables will be well supplied with provenders, and careful ostlers to attend them. The subscriber takes this opportunity to return his thanks to his friends ~1ci the public, for the patronage he has received since te has been proprietor of the Montpelier House, and assures them, that no exertions as on his part shall be wanting, to give entire satisfaction to all who may visit his House. Visitors from the sea-coast, on their arrival at Macon, will be taken direct on the Monroe Railroad to the Depot, where a carriage w~ll always be in waiting to take them to the Springs. H.J. Chalmers75 * * * White Sulphur Springs Meriwether County, Georgia June, 1843 This delightful summer retreat will again be open for the reception of company on the first day of June. In addition to the accommodations of the past years. the proprietors have erected a number of buildings suited to the accommodation of families, and for lodging rooms. Our old friends who have favored us with their company during the past season are especially invited to visit us again, that we may make a suitable return of gratitude for past favors, in the enlarged accommodations we shall offer them. And to strangers we will say, that the comforts, pleasures and privileges of the White Sulphur Springs shall not be surpassed by those at any other weltering place in the South. - From both the analysis and use of the Water, it is found to be specially tonic in its nature, and this in a higher degree than any other water in the State, that possesses also diffusible qualities. Besides the Springs known and used heretofore, several others adjacent have been discovered, which are of various qualities and strength. and these. with the old and tried ones, cannot fail to suit all the diseases with which man or woman is afflicted. Several of the Springs have been improved with pleasant walks, summer bowers, and flower gardens. We propose to sell fifty or one hundred lots, either at public sales, or to private purchasers. in eligible situ C.\BB.\f;F, BOILED HA~f, BOILED L.\~IB, BOILED C'IIH_'E:E~ . "\r P~Pta hlP!'!'. IRISH POTATOES, TmL\TOES, BEETS, C.\BB.\(;E, OKRA. 0~1(}).'"~. CCCF.\fBER-; JW.\ST BEEF, RO.\ST L.\MB. RO.\ST PW, IW.\ST CHICKE~. Each waiter furnished with a Card and Pencil. Telegraph Steam Prlntin@ House. 127 would be served at seven in the morning, dinner at one o'clock and supper at seven o'clock. Boarders who invited friends to dinner were required to make their plans known at the hotel office. In 1859, the menu offered as entrees boiled corned beef and cabbage, ham, lamb and chicken, as well as roast beef. Vegetables were listed on this menu and included Irish potatoes, tomatoes, beets, cabbage, okra, onions and cucumbers. Each year, wines, brandies and ales were offered for an extra charge.23 Joel Barnett, a frequent visitor to Indian Springs in the 1860s, described the fare in a letter to his wife. Although he did not specify the hotel at which he was staying, the food he listed is similar to that on the Indian Springs Hotel menu. He stated: "Our table is very good - Irish potatoes, corn, tomatoes, cabbages, ocre [sic], peas, mutton, chicken, ham, eggs, butter, milk, coffee, tea, apple pie and cakes." 24 It appears that the proprietors offered a healthy diet for those who were ill, and thereby provided a necessary supplement to the curative powers of the mineral spring. Edward Varner operated his own stage line from Forsyth to the hotel, as is noted in his advertisements. In 1928, Miss Joe Varner shared her memories of the stage-coach days in a letter to her newphew: Since you have been trying to resurrect titles to the site of the Old Stage Coach stop I have been delving into the storehouse of my memories and I recall many instances that afford me pleasure . The stage ran from here to Forsyth and back every day and in those days its return was the event of the day, for when it had unburdened itself many were the prominent guests among the arrivals. My trips on the stage far outnumber the years of your life. I have often danced until the early morning hours and then changed my dress, sprang in and ordered William Clark Jolly and Thomas Dickinson our drivers who alternated for many years, to get the four fine horses underway. It took an hour and a half to reach the stopping place, about halfway between here and Forsyth, where the traces were unfastened immediately and the horses trotted out and on to a stable while fresh ones were 128 ready to step right in their places. We tarried a few minutes and often saw our good friends, the Webbs, who had a big plantation on the left hand side of the road going to Forsyth, the stage stand was on the right ... It took almost another hour and a half to reach Forsyth, here the train was met, shopping or short visits made and at a set time the stage began its return trip which was the same as the other in regard to the change at the stage stand, and a house for the caretaker there. During the rush season, in the summer, many times two trips were made daily. The stage returning about midnight, there were exciting and hilarious times, the dances in the ballroom would break up and every one rushed down when it was shouted that the stage was coming. Torches illuminated the place and there was a hustle in every direction, sleepy servants coming to with a start, baggage transferred, guests registered and general confusion mixed with gay peals of laughter - all of which soon subsided as we could rest that we might begin a new day well .... 25 The number of visitors to Indian Springs in the 1850s must have been far greater than in previous decades. Edward Varner was not the only proprietor who sent stages to Forsyth twice daily to meet guests arriving there by train. Bryan Collier of the Mcintosh House also had a stage line to Forsyth, and in 1858, he stated: " ... a line of Coaches and Hacks will be in waiting at the arrival of every train ... distance 16 miles in _2-3/4 h ours .... ,26 In addition, there were guests who arrived on horseback or in private conveyances. The Varners had numerous servants on hand to wait upon their guests. A ledger book for 1858 shows that 19 hands were hired for the season, 27 these servants bringing water from the spring, serving meals, stabling horses, handling baggage and attending the bath houses. The Varners also owned slaves who worked at the hotel. The family favorite was "Uncle Pat," who was for many years the chief cook and whose culinary talents were often remembered by guests in letters to the Varners. 28 129 There is no complete record of the number of guests that came to the hotel during each season. A sampling of some of the entries in an 1850s hotel register does give a general idea of the number of guests registering in one day. It also shows that the hotel did have guests during the winter. July 16, 1852 - 23 guests July 19, 1852 - 17 guests and 4 servants July 20, 1852 - 20 guests and 4 servants December 8, 1855 - Mabries Menagerie Circus and Indian Troupe - 54 guests January 14, 1856 - 27 guests February 24, 1859 - 44 guests 29 April 1, 1859 - Everett and Mays Varieties - 12 persons, 12 horses Some of the familiar names that appear on the registers are General John W. Burney of Monticello; Lucius Q.C. Lamar, Mississippi congressman and senator, secretary of the interior, associate justice of the United States Supreme Court; General Mirabeau B. Lamar, second president of the Republic of Texas; W.L. Yancey, congressman and confederate senator of Alabama; Judge Ebenezer Starnes of Augusta; Benjamin H. Hill of LaGrange, later United States senator from Georgia; United States Senator Robert Toombs; Congressman Alexander H. Stephens, later vice president of the Confederacy and governor of Georgia; Georgia poet Sidney Lanier; the Nisbet, Napier and Lamar families of Macon; William H. Byrom and family; and Sam Dent Varner and family. Miss Joe Varner also recalled that George White, author of White's Historical Collections of Georgia, stayed at the hotel while com- pleting this book. Others, whose names are less familiar, came from as far away as New York, New Jersey, Cincinnati, Chicago, Baltimore, Texas and New Orleans, as well as from the neighboring states of Alabama, Tennessee and South Carolina. For the most part, however, guests were from Georgia and more specifically from Augusta, Eatonton, Forsyth, Griffin, Louisville, 30 Milledgeville, Monticello and Savannah. The fine service and large attendance at the springs in the 1850s is 130 further verified in the following article by the editors of the Federal Union in July of 1856: Indian Spring Last week we paid a short visit to this famous watering place. There is a large company already gathered there who seem to be spending their time very pleasantly. We stopped at Varner's and found everything comfortable and pleasant. Those who are staying with friend Collier at the Mcintosh House were well pleased, and report favorably. Both of the hotels at the Springs are well kept, and the tables well furnished. Dancing is kept up alternately at one or the other every night in the week except Sunday and good music is provided. Whether for invalids seeking health, or for those in good health seeking pleasure, we feel confident that the Indian Spring is the best watering place in the Southern States. We saw persons immediately from Mont Vale Springs in Tennessee who report the crowd there very small, not over two hundred, and the fare rather bad. It is believed that there will be more company at the Indian Spring this summer than there has been for many years.31 Apparently, 200 guests were considered to be a small number and Indian Springs had far more. From this article also, it appears that the Elder House was not open that year. In order to accommodate over 200 guests, the Indian Springs Hotel and the Mcintosh House had many cottages and tent spaces available. One has to wonder what guests did to occupy their time, particularly if they stayed for several weeks, as many did. The nights were filled with dancing for the adults, and the men could gather in the tavern. For many guests, particularly the young, the widows and the widowers, the favorite pasttime was courting -- walks along romantic paths around the spring by day and dancing by night. For those who chose to walk the short distance to the spring, several trips were made daily to drink of and 131 bathe in the "health-giving" waters. Others rocked on the veranda while servants brought spring water to them. The Varners kept books on hand for their guests, and there may have been a billiard house for the gentle- men, a hold-over from the days of Henry Dillon. Card games were also a favorite activity, particularly whist. Activities were often planned for guests, especially on holidays such as the Fourth of July or May Day. On these occasions, picnics or outings to the High Falls on the Towiliga River and other scenic areas were in order, as well as barbecues on the hotel grounds.32 A journalist writing for the Macon Telegraph in 1926 described the period of the 1850s at the Indian Springs Hotel. No doubt her information carne from Miss Joe Varner, though the article may be slightly exaggerated. It stated in part: They traveled by stage coach or in their carriages, or on horseback, to Indian Springs for a rcund of dances and gaities, at the Varner House. It was not the old Varner House in those days. It was a building of imposing structure with a great ballroom on one side, quarters for hundred of slaves in the rear, stables for blooded horses, gardens of rare beauty, and winding paths, lover's lanes, leading to the Spring famous with red and white man alike for the medicinal value of its crystal water. The cotillion, waltz and scottish were danced by the women in brocaded velvet gowns and rustling silks and men in stock collars, the chivalry of the Old South in their looks and manners. The names of the negro string band that played for these dances have come down to the present time as makers of such music that never will they be forgotten. Johnnie Butler was the fiddler. Bill Brown played the clarinet, Bell Brown played the bass fiddle. Through the throng of beautiful women and courtly men threaded the negro slaves bearing huge silver trays heaped with refreshments for the dancers. Brave days they were in Georgia's history, days of splendor and of plenty. 132 Barbecues were held which lasted all day long. To these festivities the entire countryside came, in courtly equipages such as the popular victoria was in those days . 33 The ballroom played a significant role in the life of visitors to the Indian Springs Hotel in the 1850s. While the 1840s had been noted for the political activities at the springs, the 1850s were noted for the social occasions. The editors of the Federal Union, writing of the Indian Springs in 1856, stated: "Dancing is kept up alternately at one or the other [hotels] every night in the week except Sunday and good music is provided .. " 34 Some of the dances were gala events. In 1856, the women at the springs hosted a grand affair in the Varner ballroom. The invitation read: A GRAND LEAP YEAR SOIREE Will be given by the Ladies, at Varner's Dancing Saloon, at the Indian Springs, Georgia, on the Evening of Wednesday, 13th of August, which you are most respectfully solicited to attend.35 [Following was a list of the Committee of Invitation. It included 32 names of women who either resided in the town or who were annual guests.] Before the ball took place, the following article appeared in the Federal Union: Leap_ Year Party We are indebted to the courtesy of the Committee of the Leap Year Party, to be held at the Indian Spring on the 13th of next month, for an invitation to be present. If it is in our power to be present, we shall certainly accept the invitation tendered us by the Ladies, not that we are personally interested in the great question of the evening, but we feel it is the bounden duty of every man to diminish, to the 133 extent of his own influence, the miseries which afflict man and woman kind. And ia no way can such an influence be better exerted than in wholesome efforts to facilitate the union of the unfortunate sojourners in the state of single blessedness. Old Bachelors of Milledgeville and Baldwin, and your name is 'union', hearken to the call! Brush up for the 13th of August, and make your appearance at Varner's on the evening of the same day, prepared for every emergency. Herein, fail not. The matrimonial Union expects every bachelor to do his duty.36 An annual event at the Indian Springs Hotel was the "Grand Fancy Ball" or "Fancy Dress Ball." The following announcement of such a ball appeared in the Journal and Hessenger on August 2, 1854: The Indian Springs There will be a Fancy Dress Ball at the Indian Springs, on tomorrow evening, under the auspices of the proprietors of the Varner House, who have recently completed and furnished a large and elegant Dancing Saloon, Hr. Collier the Proprietor of the Hcintosh House, also advertises a Fancy Dress Ball, to be given on the 7th of September . 37 The Varners' invitation to the annual "Grand Fancy Ball" in 1859 read: "To be given at Varner's Dancing Saloon, Indian Springs, Georgia, on the even- ing of Wednesday, August 31st, and Thursday, September 1, which you are most respectfully invited to attend."38 On July 24, 1860, a "Railroad Ball" was held at Indian Springs. 39 No one hotel was specified on the invitation, so it may have been co-sponsored by the proprietors of all three hotels. Although Edward Varner hired musicians to play for the dances, he may have joined in with the musicians on occasion. His receipts for goods often show the purchase of fiddle strings.4 The Varners and their guests were often invited to social functions in nearby towns. One invitation addressed to Hr. and Mrs. Varner and 134 Misses Varner from "The Ladies of Macon" was for a" ... Pic-Nic, in honor of the Military at Camp Oglethorpe . " 41 Miss Joe Varner noted in her diary having attended the annual "Masque Ball" in Forsyth in December of 1863. 42 In July of 1857, one Andrew Dunn of Forsyth sent Joe Varner an invitation to a dance he was giving and told her to bring a crowd with her. 43 No doubt many hotel guests rode Varner's stage to this event. So it is clear that there were fe,.;r dull moments during a sojourn at Indian Springs. After all, guests were the ""bread and butter" for the hotel owners, so the proprietors were not likely to allow a guest to be unoccupied or unattended unless it was by the choice of the guest. Their efforts paid off, at least in the number of visitors who returned each year. As Elizabeth Reid of Turnwold Plantation wrote to Joe Varner after a visit to the Springs in 1859: "There is not a day but what I think of the pleasant time we all had at dear Old Indian Springs ... " 44 The medicinal properties of the water continued to be a main feature of the advertisements for watering places, although accommodations seem to have been of equal importance by 1850. The proprietors could depend on their customers to corroborate their claims regarding the waters. The editor of the Masonic Journal in 1851 gave testimony to the proprietor's claims, writing here of the Indian Springs: ... ro their high medicinal value, thousands can bear testimony, to which, after a trial in a severe billious attack, we can add our own. Their diaphretic, diuretic, and cathartic properties, searching every pore of the system, freeing it from'all vitiated humors, and correcting its various secretions, render them highly useful in most chronic affections, resulting from derangement in the functions of the liver, and other glands, the skin, and digestive organs, as well as in a variety of summer complaints.45 135 Yet, underlying all of the fun --the hustle and bustle -- the gaiety -- is good evidence that the story of the Indian Springs Hotel in the 1850s was not a success story. For all the money that the hotel took in from the many guests, even more was expended to operate the hotel and support the Varner family. While it is clear that Henry Dillon and other proprietors had financial problems, the Varners' problems seem to have been much more serious. At one point, the possibility of the hotel being sold at public auction existed. While Indian Springs, and particularly the Indian Springs Hotel, had become the most desirable, most-visited watering place in Georgia, it simply was not paying its way. This was due in part to the basic expense of providing all the necessary services needed to attract visitors. But it may have been due in part to a lack of financial management ability on the part of Edward Varner and his sons and the fact that Edward Varner was already 61 years old when he purchased the place. It is interesting to note that although the hotel was operated by Edward Varner, he did not own any of the property.41 Henry Dillon sold the property to Jefferson M., Andrew J., and Clinton L. Varner, three of Edward's sons. The property was bought on credit, the Varners not receiving full title until 1858. 47 Edward Varner could not buy the property on credit because he had no collateral. The Jasper County property was in Cynthia Varner's name. By a marriage contract, her property could not be held liable for her husband's debts. The property was to pass to her sons if she chose to give it to them or if she died. They, therefore, could use it to se~ure credit. 48 In fact, she allowed them to mortgage it in 1852,49 probably to help pay the expenses of their new venture. Not only did Edward Varner not own any property at the age of 61, l36 but from the time he and his sons acquired the Indian Springs Hotel, they apparently over-extended themselves and incurred debts that they could not pay off even by selling their holdings. After purchasing the hotel, they bought other lots in Indian Springs and other areas of Butts Co~nty, all on credit. 50 The records of R.G. Dun and Company [now Dun and Bradstreet, but still a "mercantile agency" which reports business conditions and provides credit analyses on business firms around the country] are explicit in their rather dismal opinion of the Varners' business acumen. The record is on A.J., J.M. and C.L. Varner, although Edward Varner's role is noted at several points in the text of the report. The company's assessments for the 1850s are as follows: June, 1852 - Money is always collected out of this firm by suits, they are law abiding men, and pay all the debts accordingly. May, 1853 - Own consid. ppy. Keeps a hotel at Indian Springs, owe everybody & sued to every court. July, 1854 - Are gd. but slow. pay. January, 1855- If solvt., about as much, if their propy. was forced to a sale at this time vy. much embarassed & sued on all occasions propy. encurred by a marriage settlement in favor of Mrs. C. the wife & mother of the firm. April, 1855 - Their tax return shows town prop. 10,500$. Household & kitchen furniture 4m$ aggregate value of all other prop. 3000$ Their mother returns separate prop. Land $8000. Negroes 13m$. Aggregate of othr prop. 3000$. The father has nothing & we think the debts of the sons & Fath. will take all they possess even if the mothers est. can be reached. 137 June, 1855 - Immensely in debt, sued for thousands, & regarded as extremely doubtful, by some. November, 1856 - They have a plantation but the title is in another man's name (Whitfield) that owe 5m$ on it - but it is worth up to $8000. there abt. 30 negrs which belong to old vs wife, & after her death to the 3 sons, & her other 5 children. The hotel ppy. belongs to the firm it is in part-paid for, suppose it is w up to 4m$, the old man failed once, has had many ups & downs, is usually behind & quite a specul. man he pays only when he is obliged to, a word to the wise he the whole concern, C.L.V. is snd. got some ppy. by his wife, but it is settled upon her, he has the use of it (it amts. to abt. $15000) the other 2 are single, the 3 boys are a chip off the old block, have no ppy. out of bus. would not advise or without gd. security they might be crd. now with the expectation of forcing the money out of them.51 January, 1858 - Largely in debt. 15m$ at least in judgment. Amt. of property liable to debts not sufficient. Generally considered $1107 (In person) September, 1858- Aggregate value of ppy taxed $60 returned by E.V. Son's return E.V. 's wife large amt. of ppy. which after her death goes to the children. They are largely in debt's don't consid. them. Some parties have taken notes of "E.V. & Sons" endorsed by the old lady. The endorsement is of no benefit as cannot be subjected to the debts nor the income of it. June, 1859 - Greatly embarrassed ______ of chge for the better. September, 1860- R.E. $15m Personal $33,400. Under very heavy embarrassments. The debts of the two are about $24m- all pretty much in judgment. They are hopelessly insolvent. The Estate is vy. much dilapidated & there are 8 children. The opinion of R.G. Dun and Company is supported by the records of the Varner family itself. In 1849, the sons purchased Lot 3, but they never received full title to it and in 1873, it was sold at auction, Cynthia Varner purchasing a portion of it.52 They purchased Lot 17, the ballroom lot, in 1853 on credit from R.L. Mott. In July of 1867, in a letter from Mott to Mrs. Cynthia Varner, Mott stated that the sons had failed to pay all of the principle and had paid no interest. He demanded either full payment or clear title to it. Finally, in 1879, Mrs. Varner made final payment and obtained title to the property.53 M.E. Blount, whose husband had sold the Varner sons four lots totaling 12 acres in 1853, wrote to the_sons asking to be exonerated "from all trouble respecting 12 acres of land sold to A.J. and C.L. Varner or have the land back or pay off the bond." They finally paid that debt five years later, obtaining title to it in 1858. 54 A legal agreement between Varner and Sons and David Elder in 1856 discusses unpaid promissory notes signed by Varner and Sons, for which they were being sued in the courts.55 A few years later, their ownership of the hotel itself was threatened. Miss Joe Varner wrote to an attorney in 1875 regarding any claims he may have had against her mother. He replied; I once filed a Bill for an injunction, in behalf of your mother against various persons, creditors of your Father and Brothers, to prevent the sale of the Varner property at Indian Springs. The sale was stopped by that bill and the War coming on - and the death of your Father and some of your brothers delayed the trial a long time. Judge Trippe at length made some arrangement about the case and ended it .... 56 So, only by a tragic fate were the Varners able to retain ownership of tl.1e hotel. 139 This is not to say that the Varner men were anything but honest and hard-working. Indeed, they were both. R.G. Dun and Company even made that concession.57 But they were speculators, a risky business for men without much business ability or capital. Edward Varner had suffered reverses long before moving to Indian Springs. In fact, the course of events in Indian Springs was not unlike that of Edward Varner's circumstances in Eatonton some 35 years earlier. Between 1810 and 1820, he purchased numerous lots in the town of Eatonton, where he resided and operated a store. But his property was heavily mortgaged, with estimates of his debt reaching $32,000. Unable to pay his debts, he eventually lost everything, his property being sold at a sheriff's sale in 1824. 58 His marriage to Cynthia Byrom could have been his salvation, but she, wisely, entered into a marriage contract with him that absolved her estate from any liability for his debts. Hence, he was forced to move to her plantation in Jasper County. Then, 27 years later, he was again tempted to speculate. Perhaps someone convinced him that the hotel business would be a virtual goldmine. Unable to obtain credit of his own, Edward Varner had his sons buy the hotel and surrounding property. In order to buy the property and in order to provide the services for their guests at the hotel, the Varners borrowed far beyond their capability to pay back. They were depending on the hotel to bring in enough money to meet their debts and to show a profit. But the hotel proved unable to pay its own way. Had the Varners been able to acquire the property without going into debt, the income from the hotel would probably have been enough to operate it and support the family. Instead, the firm went deeper and deeper in debt. By 1856, Clinton Varner was in sound financial condition, having mar- 140 ried a woman with the means to support him, but the property was in her name and could not be counted on to assist in salvaging the hotel business.59 By 1860, they were on the brink of disaster. Then, fate took over. The Civil War began, and within a year, both Andrew and Jefferson were dead. Edward Varner was an old man by that time, and in 1867 he was committed to the state asylum, where he died two years later. These events delayed the trial that would probably have taken the Varner property for public sale. In 1866, R.G. Dun reported that the firm was "all broke." 60 But the war, the deaths of some of the firm members, and some legal maneuvers on the part of Mrs. Varner's lawyer prevented the sale of the property. It was through the efforts of Mrs. Varner that their debts were finally paid and that the Indian Springs Hotel was kept in the Varner family for the remaining 93 years. It is likely that the Varners did not realize in 1850 that the cost of operating the hotel would be so high. A few receipts for merchandise purchased by the firm have survived which shed light on the types of goods required and the cost of buying them. The receipts also show that few things were paid for in cash. As early as 1850, when they had just purchased the hotel furniture from Dillon credit, they bought 10 dozen cottage chairs, six rockers and 20 patent bedsteads, costing $289. This bill was not paid in full until 1852.61 A receipt from a firm in Charleston in May of 1854 totaled $304.05. It included a damask tablecloth with 10 dozen damask napkins, 20 boxes of towels, 18 cornices, two oilcloths, muslin curtains and cloth for clothes.62 A bill for the blacksmith for six months was for $23.25 and was also put on credit. 63 An 1856 bill for $270.10 included 107 items such as fabric for clothes, tobacco, flour, hats, shoes, fancy shirts, hair dye, gloves, 141 silk cravats, garden seed, stable equipment, nails, smoothing irons, flannel, a dozen goblets~ candles, ribbons, silk, stamps, fiddle strings and many others. 64 Most of these items were for the personal use of the Varner family, whose members apparently believed that to be successful you must look successful. A bill covering June through September of 1859 for the same type of goods came to $138.78. In 1860, they purchased 35 yards of muslin, 10 pairs of hose, 27 yards of plaid flannel, 24 yards of linen 7 12 dozen towels, six dozen doilies, 52 yards of print fabric for furniture, 40 yards of homespun and 21 yards of damask.6 5 These are only a small number of the bills that must have been incurr.ed during the 1850s. In addition, visitor services were costly. During the season, extra hands were hired. The Varners provided lavish bed and board for their guests. A stable of good horses was kept for the stage line along with space and forage for the guests' horses. Stages had to be bought and maintained and stage drivers paid for the entire year. Musicians were hired for the summer season. Menus were printed, invitations to balls printed and mailed around the state, and advertisements run in numerous newspapers. The income from the hotel was simply not enough to pay for goods and services and for the debts incurred in buying property. By the 1860s, the Varners had suffered financial embarrassment and tremendous personal misfortune as well. The remarkable part of this story is that the Varners did survive --that they did not lose their property. For 10 years, Edward Varner and his sons were able to stave off creditors and continue to operate the hotel in a grand style. But it was the Varner women, and more particularly Cynthia Varner, who actually saved the family property from public sale and finally paid off the debts. She had the injunction filed to 142 stop the sale of the property, and she paid off the debts on the mill lot and the ballroom lot. Before she died, the Indian Springs Hotel property was transferred by deed of gift, not to her two surviving sons, but to her two daughters, Joe and Amanda. 66 At her death, she left one-fourth of her estate to Joe, one-fourth to Amanda, one-fourth to the children of John C., and one-fourth to the children of Clinton L.67 Although Cynthia Varner saved the property, it was not in her power to continue to operate it in the style of the 1850s, and the Indian Springs Hotel never again reached the heights of that decade. The price of making the hotel the finest watering place in Georgia was too high. It continued to operate for many years after 1860, but it was never again the scene of fashionable social occasions or political events. Cynthia Varner realized their financial limitations and refused to follow in the path that her husband and sons had taken. 143 NOTES Chapter 5: The Indian Springs Hotel: 1850-1860 1 U.S. Census, Georgia, Butts County, Indian Springs, 1860. 2 Inventory of the furnishings of the Indian Springs Hotel, 1850, Varner Collection, Georgia Historical Society, Savannah. 3 Commission from the United States Postmaster General to Edward Varner, appointing Varner as postmaster at Indian Springs, December 29, 1857, Varner Collection. Bill from B.A. Wright to Edward Varner, February 24, 1858, for "furnishing plank and filling up Post Office ... ," Varner Collection. 4 Abstracts of chain of title to Lot Three in the Indian Springs Reserve, by Paul J. Varner, Varner Collections. Butts County Superior Court, Deed Book~, p. 260. 5 Letter of R.L. Mott to Mrs. C.H. Varner, July 12, 1867, Varner Collection. 6 Butts County Superior Court, Deed Book~, p. 407. 7 The Southern Mutual Insurance Company of Georgia, Policy #3603, January 4, 1850, Varner Collection. 8 Ibid., Policy #10635, November 1, 1854, Varner Collection. 9 Briefs, Reminiscences of Miss Joe Varner, as told to her greatnephew, Paul J. Varner, ca. 1925, Varner Collection. 10 Letter of R.L. Mott to Mrs. C.H. Varner, July 12, 1867, Varner Collection. 11 The Journal and Messenger, Macon, Ga., August 2, 1854. 12 Briefs, Varner Collection. The Journal and Messenger, May 21, 1851, p. 3, c. 5. 13 Chain of title to Lot Three or "mill lot," abstracted by Paul J. Varner., Varner Collection. H.M. Edge, "Souvenir History of Indian Springs," The Indian Springs Echo, Indian Springs, Ga., 1874. 144 14 Butts County Superior Court, Deed Book!, p. 266. 15 Georgia Surveyor General Department, plat of Indian Springs, 1828, Atlanta. 16 The Journal and Messenger, May 21, 1851, p. 3, c. 5. 17 Briefs, Varner Collection. 18 The Journal and Messenger, May 21, 1851, p. 3, c. 5. 19 Ibid., July 9, 1851, p. 1, c. 4. 20 The Federal Union, Milledgeville, Ga., June 3, 1856, p. 3, c. 3. 21 Ibid., p. 3, c. 3. 22 The Georgia Telegraph, Macon, Ga., July 6, 1858, p. 3, c. 5. 23 "Bill of Fare," Indian Springs Hotel, 1855, 1856, 1859, Varner Collection. 24 Fannin-Barnett Family Papers, letter of Joel C. Barnett to his wife, July 13, 1868, Indian Springs, Georgia Department of Archives and History, Atlanta. 25 Letter of Miss Joe Varner to Forrest Varner, Indian Springs, February 28, 1928, Varner Collection. 26 The Macon Telegraph, Macon, Ga., July 6, 1858, p. 3, c. 6. 27 Indian Springs Hotel Ledger, 1857-1861, Georgia Department of Archives and History, Atlanta. 28 Letter of Amanda Varner to Joe Varner, April 8, 1862, Varner Collection. Letter of W.J. Green to Joe Varner, Macon, October 16, 1861, Varner Collection. Letter of Amanda Musgrove to Joe Varner, Columbia County, Ga., April 24, 1867, Varner Collection. 29 Miscellaneous bills and receipts, 1850-1860, Varner Collection. 30 Indian Springs Hotel registers, 1852-1860, Varner Collection. The Macon Telegraph, Centennial Edition, 1926, "Indian Springs House is Noted," by Hazel Gewinner. Briefs, Varner Collection. 3l The Federal Union, Milledgeville, July 29, 1856, p.3.c.3. ~45 32 Ibid. Diar; of Miss Joe Varner, 1862-1870, Georgia Department of Archives and History, Atlanta. Invitations to Leap Year Soiree, 1856, and Grand Fancy Ball, 1859, Varner Collection. The Macon Telegraph, Centennial Edition, 1926, "Indian Springs House is Noted," by Hazel Gewinner, Varner Collection. 33 The Macon Telegraph, Centennial Edition, 1926, "Indian Springs House is Noted," by Hazel Gewinner, Varner Collection. 34 The Federal Union, Milledgeville, July 29, 1856, p. 3, c. 3. 35 Invitation to a Leap Year Soiree, 1856, Varner Collection. 36 The Federal Union, July 29, 1856, p. 3, c. 3. 37 The Journal and Messenger, August 2, 1854. 38 Invitation to Grand Fancy Ball, August 31, 1859, Varner Collection. 39 Invitation to a "Railroad Ball," July 24, 1860, Varner Collection. 40 Receipt for Edward Varner and Sons, January-December, 1856, and January, 1856-February, 1857, Varner Collection. 41 Invitation for the Varners to a "Pic-Nic," Varner Collection. 42 Diary of Miss Joe Varner, entry for December, 1864, Georgia Department of Archives and History, Atlanta. 43 Letter of Andrew Dunn to Miss Joe Varner, July 1, 1857, Varner Collection. 44 Letter of Elizabeth Reed to Miss Joe Varner, September 19, 1859, Varner Collection. 45 The Masonic Journal, May, 1851, Vol. III (5), p. 197. 46 A search of the deed records for Butts County reveals that all property sold to the Varners was actually sold to the sons of Edward Varner. Also, the records of R.G. Dun and Company for the 1850s state that Edward Varner had nothing; its records are on the sons. 47 Butts County Superior Court, Deed Book~' p. 442. 48 Ibid. Marriage contract between Edward Varner of Putnam County and Cynthia Byrom of Jasper County, July 5, 1823, pp. 361-62. 49 Jasper County Superior Court, Deed Book{, p. 241. 146 SO A search of the deed records for Butts County and the correspondence of the Varner Collection reveals that the Varners owned a number of lots in Butts County and that the grantors had difficulty in collecting their money from the sales. 51 R.G. Dun and Company, report on A.J., J.M., and C.L. Varner, 18521866, Georgia, Vol. 4, pp. 368, 371, 388, Baker Library, Harvard University, Boston. 52 Chain of title to Lot Three, Indian Springs Reserve, abstracted by Paul J. Varner, Varner Collection. 53 Butts County Superior Court, Deed Book~' p. 401 Letter of R.L. Matt to Mrs. C.H. Varner, July 12, 1867, Varner Collection. Letter of M.E. Blount to A.J. and C.L. Varner, February 12, 1853, Varner Collection. 55 Butts County Superior Court, Deed Book~' p. 407. 56 Letter of John J. Floyd to Miss Joe Varner, Covington, March 27, 1875, Varner Collection. 57 R.G. Dun and Company, records for June, 1852, on A.J., J.M., and C.L. Varner, Butts County, Ga., Vol. 4, p. 368, Baker Library, Harvard University, Boston. 58 Interview with Mrs. Leila Brittain, Eatonton, February 23, 1978, by the author. Mrs. Brittain has done much research on the history of Eatonton. Information she gave on the real-estate holdings of Edward Varner and their disposal is from her careful search of the records of the Putnam County Superior Court. S9 R.G. Dun and Company, records for November, 1856, on A.J., J.M., and C.L. Varner, Butts County, Ga., Vol. 4, p. 368, Baker Library, Harvard University, Boston. 60 Ibid., August, 1866. 61 Bill for goods purchased by J.M. and C.L. Varner, June 25, 1850, Varner Collection. 62 Bill for goods purchasec by E. Varner and Sons, May 31, 1854, Varner Collection. 63 Bill for blacksmith services for E. Varner and Sons, August 15, 1857, Varner Collection. 64 Bill for goods purchased by Edward Varner and Sons, January, 1856February, 1857, Varner Collection. 147 65 Bill for goods purchased by Edward Varner, June, 1860-May, 1861, Varner Collection. 66 Butts County Superior Court, Deed Book~' p. 193. 67 Butts County Superior Court, Deed Book~' p. 193ff. 148 Chapter 6 THE DECLINING YEARS OF THE INDIAN SPRINGS HOTEL The financial transactions of the Varners in the 1850s and personal misfortune which included the deaths of several family members took their toll on the Indian Springs Hotel. The Civil War also brought near financial ruin for the hotel as well as for the mineral spring resort itself. The trappings of success were no longer evident. Like other families in Georgia in the 1860s, the Varners experienced "hard times" from which they never fully recovered. After a decade of good service, gay balls and an appearance of prosperity, the Indian Springs Hotel began to show signs of deterioration around 1860. Amanda Varner, writing to her sister in 1861, stated that the house could not be repaired and that they would not be able to accommodate their usual crowd. 1 Joe Varner, writing to her brother Jeff in June of 1862, said that high prices had forced her father to stop running the stages, and he had even sold the horses. As a result, it was rumored that the hotel was not taking boarders. The Indian Springs Hotel had few boarders that season, and while the Elder and Mcintosh hotels had good crowds, most were invalids. 2 Mrs. Varner wrote tv her son John that there were few boarders, times were hard, and prices high. It was hard to "keep a good table." Most food was sent to Macon for the wounded Confederate soldiers.3 The effects of the war were indeed substantial. Because of high prices and the family "breadwinners" being away in the war, many people were forced to give up st.ch luxuries as going to "watering places" for the season. The war also 149 took some of the Varner men to the battlefield. John Clark Varner had enlisted by 1862 and lost an arm in the Battle of Cold Harbor, Virginia.4 Jefferson Varner was killed at Malvern Hill, Virginia, in June of that year.5 But the war was not the sole cause of the problems of the Indian Springs Hotel. The firm of Varner and Sons was gradually reduced to one person, Edward Varner, who was 73 years of age by 1862. Clinton Varner had previously moved to Houston County, and Andrew J. Varner died sud~ denly at Indian Springs in April of 1862, followed in June by Jefferson's death in the war. The same year, Edward was injured in a fall from a buggy, and Cynthia Varner, then 64 years of age, suffered a lengthy illness.6 The hotel had been a family operation in the 1850s, and the loss of and injury to the family members contributed much to the decline of the Indian Springs Hotel. Additionally, the financial maneuvers of Varner and Sons in the 1850s only heightened the problems caused by the severe inflation of the war years. Creditors of the Varners, also hurt by high prices, were not so easy to stave off. Edward Varner, aged, inj~red from his fall and with no assistance available from his sons, was not able to meet the challenges and problems that faced him. At one point, he almost lost the hotel and property at Indian Springs due to the debts he and his sons had incurred. Mrs. Varner persuaded a judge to grant an injunction to stop the sale. Her lawyer later stated that the judge's action was due to the war and the loss of the members of the firm of Varner and Sons. 7 The final blow to Edward came in 1864, according to family tradition. On November 17 of that year, the right wing of Sherman's army arrived in Jackson. On the following day, Wood's and Hazen's Division camped at 150 Indian Springs, waiting to cross the Ocmulgee River. The llOth Indiana Infantry had provost duty in the town. 8 The Varners later sought war claims for the following items said to have been taken by the Federal troops. 4 horses 1 mule 3 wagons 13 sets han1ess 5 cords wood 24 pairs ofblankets 200 bu. corn 3 tons hay 6000 lbs. pork 500 lbs. beef 9 Family tradition also claims that Edward Varner was mistreated by the Federal troops, leading to his mental deterioration.10 Whatever the cause, on June 26, 1867, Miss Joe Varner admitted her 78-year-old father to the State Lunatic Asylum. 11 No doubt, the hard times, the loss of two sons, and his age were also factors contributing to his mental illness. In February of 1869, Edward Varner died at the asylum and was buried in the Milledgeville cemetery.12 During the 1860s, the Varner daughters were away from home intermittently. It is known that Amanda was studying music in Cutbert in 1861 and 1868, 13 and she may have been away during the interim years as well. Joe Van1er moved to Byromville in Dooly County in 1863, where she ran a school until 1868. 14 The responsibility of running the hotel after 1867, and probably earlier, fell to Cynthia Varner. The Indian Springs Hotel did remain open throughout the 1860s, but the entries in the hotel registers are far less numerous than in days past. There are no accounts of balls in the "Varner dancing saloon" or political gatherings. The stage line had ceased operations. Miss Joe, who had become a Friend of Temperance, did not operate the tavern. In fact, the hotel was more of a boarding house than a resort. Joe Varner kept a diary during the 1860s, and in it, for the year 1862, she recorded her daily activities at the springs. There was quilting, reading, caring for sick friends, attending church, and occasional trips to Forsyth. She did state in August of that year that "our crowd had been an unusually large one for these times." Then, in March of the following year, she moved to Dooly County, returning home briefly in August. She said that the hotel had been largely attended during the summer and that the visitors seemed "giddy, gay and wicked" in spite of the sad war news. In July of 1865, she again noted "company beyond my expectat1. on." 15 Apprently, enough guests stayed at the hotel during the 1860s to keep it going. Possibly, without the expenses incurred in the 1850s for balls, stage lines, a tavern, and other amenities, the Varners were able to break even on the expenses. At least, they were able to prevent the sale of the hotel and were able to keep it open. After 1868, Joe's entries in her diary are sporadic and yield little data on life at Indian Springs. From around 1870 until 1900, the Indian Springs Hotel was known as the Varner House and was run by Joe, Amanda, and their mother. Each year brought fewer guests, and the Varner sisters did not have the financial capacity to improve the building to any great extent or to provide the services that guests demanded. New hotels were built in Indian Springs. The Elder and Mcintosh hotels were enlarged and improved, and the Varner House was not able to compete. There were apparently enough guests, however, to support Joe and Amanda's frugal way of life. A financial report on Joe Varner in 1874 states that she had no capital, but was reliable and attentive to her business. By 1878, it ~as stated that her credit was bad and that the business had no capital. The following year, she was described as having no means -- a nice woman in straightened circum- 15'2 stances, yet meeting all promises to pay. 17 Even so, an undated newspaper article, thought to have been written in the late 1870s or early 1880s, stated the following: ... The Varner House has had more visitors than it could accommodate. The cooking of this popular house is excellent and the table abounds with the best the country affords. The visitors all agree in saying that this house gives better accommodations than any other. Every effort is made by Miss Varner to make it pleasant and comfortable for the boarders .... l8 This reputation did not last, however. It is clear from a search of the Middle Georgia Argus from 1870 to 1900 that most guests stayed at other hotels that hosted balls, provided taverns and planned special events for the guests and who were constantly improving their facilities. The only account of improvement to the Varner House was in 1884, when the paper stated that the Varner House had received a good coat of paint.l9 Joe stated later that the ballroom had been razed in the 1890s.20 In January of 1882, a city directory for Indian Springs listed the "Varner House- By Misses Varner." 21 In July of 1884, in a section of the Atlanta Constitution entitled "Sununer Resorts," the following advertisement appeared: Board can be had at the 'Varner House' $30.00 per month, $10 per week, children and servants half price. Good conveyances will meet each train to convey persons to and from the house. Misses A. & J. Varner22 At that time, there were still only three hotels at the springs. In addition, the popularity of mineral springs was increasing again after a decline during the war and Reconstruction. So, for a time, the Varner House had a good crowd during the season. But this suecess was brief, Miss Joe Varner (left) and Miss Amanda Varner. Late-19th-Century photograph was taken at the southwest corner of the Indian Springs Hotel. [From the Varner Collection, Georgia Historical Society, Savannah, Ga.] 154 as the advent of new hotels resulting from the increased visitation of the 1880s proved to be too much competition for the Varner House. As these hotels gathered in the large crowds, the Varner House simply took the overflow. The Middle Georgia Argus chronicled the events at the springs and the arrivals at the major hotels. In 1884, it noted a "fine crowd" at the Varner House, 23 but after 1885, the Varner House was rarely mentioned. After 1900, the Varner House became the gathering place for the Varner clan. Miss Joe expected the various branches of her family to come each summer, and they obliged, each group staying for at least two weeks. Descendants today can recall their childhood days spent with Miss Joe. They remember the ritual of going to the spring each day to drink the water, Miss Joe still being a firm believer in the cures of the water. The children played in Big Sandy Creek. Meals were often to be had at one of the other hotels. And all were required to go to "camp meeting" with Miss Joe if they happened to be visiting at that time.24 In 1916, Miss Joe sold the house to the William Mcintosh Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution. This group hoped to get financial assistance from the State Legislature to assist in making the house a memorial and chapter house, but the funds were not available, and the property reverted to Miss Joe.25 During the 1920s, Miss Joe's nephew, Forrest Varner, lived at the hotel also, along with his children, Earl, Milton, Paul and Corneil. 26 On October 24, 1927, Paul J. Varner, her great-nephew and son of Forrest Varner, bought the hotel, although Miss Joe retained the right to reside there during her lifetime.27 At that time, according to family tradition, he replaced the old two-story porch with the present one-story shed porch. 155 He also divided the rear shed into smaller rooms, including baths. For the next seven years following Miss Joe's death in 1928, the house was used as a summer residence by the members of Paul Varner's family. Then, in 1935, Forrest Varner went there to live year-round and remained there until his death in 1953. 28 At that time, it was sold to Mr. J.H. Elliot, an antiques dealer from Madison and Atlanta, who operated a museum in the house for a number of years. Finally, on April 11, 1974, it was sold by Mr. Elliot to the State of Georgia. 29 It is now awaiting restoration by the Georgia Department of Natural Resources, after which it will be opened to the public as a state historic site. The fate of Indian Springs as a resort was not as grim as that of the Indian Springs Hotel. The Georgia springs experienced a surge of popularity that began about 1880. Approximately 30 mineral spring hotels were built in the state between 1880 and 1900. Indian Springs was the most fashionable of the late-19th-Century watering places, just as it had been in the ante-bellum period. One stroke of luck for Indian Springs was the building of a rail line between Macon and Atlanta with a stop just two miles from Indian Springs. It began operation in 1882, 30 and within a few years, a "dummy" or connecting train was carrying passengers from the depot to the springs. 31 Immediately a settlement grew up around the new depot which was called East End, while Indian Springs was also referred to as West End, and both comprised the town of Indian Springs.32 East End was later renamed Flovilla and was incorporated as a separate town. 33 The "dummy" train from Flovilla to Indian Springs continued to operate well into the 20th Century. Arriving at the Indian Springs, it would stop at the various hotels to leave the guests, 34 a convenient service which contributed to 156 the popularity of Indian Springs over many other mineral spring hotels. Soon after the advent of the Macon and Atlanta line stopping at Flovilla, new hotels were built, and between 1885 and 1900, five new hotels were erected. The Varner House and Elder Hotel were still there, but the Mcintosh House had burned in 1883. 35 Although no significant activities took place at the Indian Springs Hotel or Varner House in this period, there was much activity taking place at the springs. In the 1880s, reunions of Confederate veterans were popular events and the old soldiers often met at Indian Springs. In July of 1884, a reunion there included a dress parade, a host of speakers, roll call of companies and a dinner. The local newspaper described it as the "biggest event in Butts since the war" and estimated the crowd at 3,000-4,000 people.36 Balls were held each week at the hotels that had ballrooms. The music at these hotels was often noted by the newspaper. In 1882, it stated: "The Elder House and Mcintosh both have a splendid string band, and the sweet notes of music is wafted by the gentle zephers each day as the sun fades away in the western horizon." 37 In 1884, it was said that the Elder House had acquired an "Italian string band." 38 Another event of 1882 was a cadet convention. About 90-100 cadets stayed at the Mcintosh House for three days. Their departure was followed by the arrival of a large group of ladies from Atlanta who brought a brass band along. They were followed by a large excursion from southwest Georgia. 39 This was the year that Indian Springs experiened its rebirth, due to the new railroad to East End. The Middle Georgia Argus stated: "Let them come, every man in the State ought to see the future grandest watering place that the South has ever known." 40 Indeed, these 157 events were only a prelude to the future growth of Indian Springs as a resort. The crowd on a day in July of 1882 was estimated at 400, and it was stated then that 300 of them had never visited the spring before.41 In July of the following year, the newspaper stated that" .. some of our citizens think the crowd at the Springs last Saturday was the largest assembled at that place since the war. ,,4Z Political meetings were again held there. In July of 1884, advertising the event, the Argus wrote: Everybody that visits Indian Springs next Saturday will be more than apt to meet with an agreeable surprise. Come down candidates. Everyone of you is expected to be here on Saturday next and speak for himself. A general picnic will be the order of the day. Col. Jim Blount will be here and make one of his big campaign speeches and a band of music will be in attendance.43 As before the war, May Day was a major holiday at the Springs. That celebration was described in the Argus of 1885. A band played while peo- ple danced, strolled about and enjoyed a picnic. The Hilliard Institute cadets of Forsyth drilled and the newspaper claimed that the " were t h ronge d w.1th peop 1 e. 44 hills This new growth and increased visitation to the Springs brought about the need for new hotels. By 1885, the Heard House (later the Foy Hotel), the Calumet, Bryans House and others had opened, along with the improved Elder House. They offered the prerequisite of a resort hotel dancing, barrooms and modern conveniences. This growth culminated in 1890 with the building of the Wigwam Hotel, a huge Victorian showplace, said to be one of the largest frame buildings in the world at that time. [See architectural drawing of the Wigwam Hotel on the following page.] The Wigwam offered the latest in conveniences and amusements, including -~-?~ C~-~~----.__ ._--. -__;;_:-::- ;--_ -~~ - - - - - -----=-- ---~- --.=-- -_..;; - -=-- ~- ---:: --:-- ---~- --- -=-------=====:::::::- - - - - -- - -- -~- -~:.::_-.~~:=--~- - ~~ ------ - -- --- ~- --~-- -t:.- . _ --=- ------- -~-- -~- _--~-=-~ ~----..:;-~ - - - - .. ;:..:::- - -.- - - --- -~-=- ~~_.=:::::..1 =- / . '/, _, '. An architect's rendering of the Wigwam Hotel, Indian Springs, Georgia. The hotel, when built, lacked some of the Victorian embellishment shown here. This drawing is from The Southern Architect, August, 1890, p. 135. -~ Foreground, The Foy Hotel; background, The Indian Springs Hotel. [The original is in possession of Mr. James Cornell, The Elder Hotel, Indian Springs.] 9 ., ' . . \ The second Elder Hotel, Indian Springs, Georgia, built in 1903. [The original is in possession of Mr. James Cornell, The Elder Hotel, Indian Springs.] 161 gas lighting, baths, casino, swimming pool, bowling and tennis courts. The fact that such a fine hotel was built at Indian Springs and that it flourished is testimony of the popularity of the springs. 45 The above are only a few samples of the events taking place at the springs during this era. Much more could be written, based solely on the weekly accounts of the news of Indian Springs chronicled in the Middle Georgia Argus. The information available is far too extensive to be included in the scope of this report. In addition, the Indian Springs Hotel or Varner House was actually a bystander for these events. By the 1880s, the Varner sisters were in their fifties. Their strict adherence to the tenets of temperance and their sedate lifestyle, in part, kept them from joining in the frivolity of the day. In addition, they were still plagued by financial hardship that prevented them from improving their facilities that would have enabled them to compete with the other hotel proprietors. A few loyal friends from years past returned each year to stay with them, and they sometimes accommodated the overflow from the other hotels, but as 1900 approached, their guests were few and far between. Miss Joe assumed her role as sage and storyteller of Indian Springs. Visitors went to see Miss Joe for her advice and her nostalgic reminiscences of days gone by. But they preferred to lodge in the new, modern establishments, and by 1900, the Indian Springs Hotel had ended its hotel career. 46 This old hotel had given Indian Springs the impetus for its early development. It was Indian Springs' first hotel, and for many years, its finest, and it had a history unequalled by any other hotel in the state. The Bath House, Indian Springs, Georgia. [The original is in possession of Mr. James Cornell, The Elder Hotel, Indian Springs.] Colonel Lamar's Mill, Indian Springs, Ga., built in 1873. [The original is in possession of Mr. James Cornell, The Elder Hotel, Indian Springs.] .. , ~ ...:. ....... , :-~/..'......-.--.---..2-..:-... Bridge over Big Sandy Creek, Indian Springs, Georgia. [The original photograph is in possession of Mr. James Cornell, The Elder Hotel, Indian Springs.] 165 NOTES Chapter ~: The Declining Years of the Indian Springs Hotel 1 Letter of Amanda Varner to Joe Varner, August 8, 1861, Cuthbert, Ga., Varner Collection, Georgia Historical Society, Savannah, Ga. 2 Letter of Joe Varner to Jefferson Varner, June 25, 1862, Varner Collection. 3 Letter of Cynthia Varner to John C. Varner, dated sometime between April and June, 1862, Varner Collection. 4 Confederate Service Record of John C. Varner, Varner Collection. 5 Paul J. Varner, compiler, Genealogy of the Varner Family, Varner Collection. 6 Letter of Joe Varner to Jefferson Varner, June 25, 1862, Varner Collection. 7 Letter of John J. Floyd to Joe Varner, March 27, 1875, Covington, Ga., Varner Collection. 8 Georgia Historical Markers (Valdosta, Ga.: Baytree Grove Publishers, 1973), p. 54. 9 Copy of Civil War Claim of Mrs. C.H. Varner, War Department, Washington, D.C., 1873, Varner Collection. 10 Sherry L. Boatright, The Mcintosh Inn and Its Place in Creek Indian History, "Interview with Mrs. Corneil Varner Davidson, Macon, Ga., 1975" (Atlanta: Georgia Department of Natural Resources, 1975), p. 97. 11 Statement of Birdie V. Sanders found in the Varner Collection. 12 Varner family Bible, death record of Edward Varner, Varner Collection. 13 Letter of Amanda Varner to Joe Varner, August 8, 1861, Cuthbert, Ga., Varner Collection. Letter of Fannie Tex., Varner Collection. to Joe Varner, April 5, 1868, McLeman Co., 14 Diary of Miss Joe Varner, 1861-1901, Varner Collection. 15 Ibid. l66 16 Varner House Registers, 1870-1900, Varner Collection. Indian Springs Business Directory, 1882, The Jackson Progress-Argus, January 12, 1882, p. 2, c. 4. Lois McMichael, ed., The History of Butts County,(Jackson, Ga.: Daughters of the American Revolution, 1975). 17 Report on Miss Josephine Varner, R.G. Dun and Co., Georgia, Vol. 4, The Baker Library, Harvard University, Boston, Mass. 18 Scrapbook of Miss Joe Varner, undated, unnamed newspaper article, Varner Collection. 19 The Middle Georgia Argus, Jackson, Ga~; April 13, 1882, p. 2, c. 1. 20 Briefs, reminiscences of Miss Joe Varner as told to her greatnephew Paul J. Varner, around 1925, Varner Collection. 21 The Jackson Progress-Argus, Jackson, Ga., January 12, 1882, p. 2, c. 4. 22 The Atlanta Constitution, "Sunnner_Resor:ts," Atlanta, July 6, 1884, p. 2, c---:--4. 23 The Middle Georgia Argus, July 15, 1884, p. 2, c. 4. 24 Interview with Ms. Lucille Dillon Flemister, Griffin, Ga., November 30, 1977, by the author. 25 Sketch of Indian Springs and Varner-Mcintosh Memorial, William Mcintosh Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution, Jackson, Ga., 1917, p. 20, and Erata Sheet. 26 Interview with Mr. Earl Varner, Swainsboro, Ga., June 15, 1977, by the author. 27 Butts County Superior Court, Deed Book 2, p. 125. 28 Boatright, "Interview with Mrs. Corneil Varner Davidson," p. 97. 29 Deed File, Mcintosh Inn State Historic Site, Georgia Department of Natural Resources, Planning and Historic Sites Division, Atlanta. 30 The Middle Georgia Argus, January 26, 1882, p. 2, c. 1. 31 Ibid., July 19, 1887, p. 5, c. 3. 32 Ibid., April 28, 1883, p. 3, c. 2; February 28, 1884, p. 2, c. 3-4; and April 1, 1884, p. 2, c. 3. 33 Ibid., July 28, 1885, p. 2, c. 3. 167 34 Interview with Mr. James Cornell, Jr., proprietor of the Elder Hotel, Indian Springs, Ga., June 10, 1977, by the author. 35 The Middle Georgia Argus, April 21, 1883, p. 3, c. 3. 36 Ibid., July 22, 1884, p. 2, c. 2. 37 Ibid. , July 13, 1882, p. 2, c. 1. 38 Ibid., June 24, 1884, p. 2, c. 5. 39 Ibid., August 24, 1882, p. 2, c. 2. 40 Ibid. 41 Ibid. 42 Ibid., July 28, 1883, p. 3, c. 3. 43 Ibid., July 29, 1884, p. 2, c. 3. 44 Ibid., May 5, 1885, p. 3, c. 3. 45 Christine Park Harkinson, The Georgia Review, "Indian Springs," Winter, 1947, No. 4, Vol. 1, pp. 500-510. Georgia's Health Resort for 100 Years, advertising booklet for the Wigwam Hotel, in possession of Mr. James Cornell, Jr., Elder Hotel, Indian Springs, Ga. 46 Varner House Registers, 1900-1928, Varner Collection. Boatright, "Interview with Mrs. Corneil V. Davidson, p. 97. APPENDICES APPENDIX A Items From The Varner Family Papers 170 DEATH OF MRS. CYNTHIA VARNER NOTED The following was written by J.T. Burney on December 18, 1882, con- cerning the death of Mrs. Cynthia Varner. It is among the papers held in the Varner Collection, Georgia Historical Society, Savannah, Georgia. Mrs. Cynthia Varner This remarkable and interesting lady expired last Saturday at Indian Springs, Georgia, where she had resided for the last thirty years. Although Mrs.Varner has been very feeble for a long while and her death was constantly expected, the announcement will be none the less regretted by a large circle of acquaintances who held her in very high esteem. If she had not posessed [sic] mental gifts of so high an order as to command the respect of every one she met, and social virtues that inspired the warmest sentiments of regard, her death is sorely lamented on acount [sic] of her being the last link that binds this new era to the primitive days of the commonwealth. When young she was beautiful and wealthy, and received the homage of several gentlemen of the 'old school' who aided in making history and stamped their impress upon their times. She was a belle in the days of knee breeches, silk stockings and silver buckles- when the bearing of men toward women was marked by knightly courtesy, and all transportation was by carriage, coach or on horseback. She lived to witness the rapid strides of progress, in which she always felt a very warm interest. This old lady was a phenomenon, her personal experience covered three-fourths of a century-her reading was also varied and extensive, and her memory as to names, dates etc., was marvelously accurate, and possessing rare conversational powers she was the best raconteur I ever met. Unlike most old people she by no means 'lived in the past', but had a keen interest in passing events, and read the daily papers with the avidity of a journalist. 171 I have lost as devoted, and certainly the most interesting lady that I ever had; I only regret want of time to speak of her as I feel. Notwitstanding [sic] her great age and physical infirmities, her splendid intellect was undimmed by time, and thus she was fully able to appreciate the unswerving and poetic devotion of her daughter, Miss Joe Varner, whom thousands of good people respect as a worthy daughter of such a mother. December 18th, 1882. J.T. Burney. 172 NEWSPAPER NOTICE OF DEATH OF MISS AMANDA VARNER The following is taken from an undated copy of the Jackson Progress- Argus, Jackson, Georgia, located in the Varner Collection, Georgia His- torical Society, Savannah, Georgia. Miss Amanda Varner's death occurred on Harch 29, 1915. MISS ANANDA VARNER DEAD She Was Widely Known Miss Varner Intimately Associated With History f Indian Springs - The Funeral Held Tuesday The death of Hiss Amanda Varner, which occurred at her home at Indian Springs Monday morning, removes one of the best known and widely beloved women in Middle Georgia. Death came after a ten days illness of sciatica and other complications. She would have been 80 years old in May and during her long and useful career was intimately connected with the history of Indian Springs. The family moved to Butts county early in the last century and settling at Indian Springs have contributed much to the develooment of this section. The male members of the family were noted for conspicuous gallentry in war. For the pas.t fifty years or longer the Misses Varner, Amanda and Joe, had occupied the historic Varner house, erected by William [Mc]Intosh, the Creek chieftain in 1823. This famous hostelry is still preserved in its original quaintness and it is this old Indian cabin that the Daughters of the American Revolution of Georgia have considered buying that it may be preserved, together with the collection of history-making relics, for future generations. Miss Varner probably knew as many of the distinguished men of Georgia for the last fifty years as any citizen in the state. She was by birth and training a daughter of the Old South and her charity and benevolence was extended to every worthy cause. She was a faithful member of the Flovilla Methodist Church, 173 which, it is stated, she bequeathed a substantial remembrance. Miss Varner is survived by a sister, Miss Joe Varner, who has been her devoted companion for a great many years; Mrs. Charles White, Griffin, Mrs. Birdie Saunders, Newnan, Nevin Jordan, Monticello, F.G. Varner, Macon, Mrs. Callie V. Dean, Griffin, Kenan and Gordon Varner, Alexander, La., W.P. Varner, Rutledge, Miss Annie Carter, Madison, Mrs. Julia Varner Chapman, Taiban, N.M., Dr. Joe Newson, Atlanta, Miss Fannie Newson, Davisboro, Mrs. Julia Varner Bacon and Weldon Varner and family, Madison, Mrs. Wimberly, Mr. Brown Wimberly and Mrs. Mary Robson, Macon, nieces and nephews; also Mrs. Robson's two little daughters, who are great-great nieces of Miss Varner. The funeral took place from the Varner residence Tuesday morning at 11 o'clock and was attended by many friends and relatives. Rev. J.T. Pendley of the Flovilla Methodist church conducted the services. Numerous and beautiful floral tributes showed the esteem in which the deceased was held. The body was laid to rest in the family cemetery at Indian Springs. The following were the pall-bearers: Messrs. R. Troup Smith, Willie Ogletree, L.D. Hoard, Wright Watkins, N.J. Jordan, Ben Cleveland. 174 MISS JOE VARNER'S BIRTHDAY OBSERVED The following is an article which appeared in The Jackson Progress- Argus, Jackson, Georgia, on Friday, June 22, 1928. MISS JOE VARNER OBSERVES HER NINETY-FIRST BIRTHDAY Hearty good wishes and cordial congratulations are extended to Miss Joe Varner upon the occasion of her ninety-first birthday Sunday, June 17. Joining in these felicitations are thoussands of friends in Butts county, Georgia and the entire South. Miss 'Joe' is not only one of Butts county's oldest citizens, but is one of the most widely beloved women in the state. She is probably known to as many people as any citizen of Georgia, and all who know her esteem and love her. She is ninety-one years 'young' because she retains an alert interest in young people, has scores and scores of young people who are 'my boys' and 'my girls.' Born June 17, 1837, near Monticello in Jasper county, Miss Joe moved to Indian Springs when a small girl and during her long and eventful life as resided in the historic Varner House. This is one of the most interesting places in Georgia. Here many of the important treaties with the Indians were signed. Here General William Hcintosh lived. Here, particularly in the antebellum days, gathered the statesmen and politicians of Georgia. The Varner House was acquired some months ago by Mr. Paul J. Varner, of Brunswick, who it will be recalled, financed the Redfern flight to South America. The property has been modernized in every particular, yet the main features of architecture have been retained, and the Varner House, now used as a summer home by the Varner family will continue to be a shrine. Miss Varner is the last surviving member of a large and prominent family. She is a daughter of Edward Varner and Cynthia Hardwick Fitzpatrick Varner, pioneer settlers of this part of Georgia. For more than a hundred years the Varner family have played an important part in the growth and development of Georgia. 175 Miss 'Joe' possesses a rare fund of information about Indian Springs and this part of Georgia. She is familiar with the old Indian trails, she knows much unpublished history of Butts county. The museum in the Varner House contains many interesting and valuable relics and a visit to the springs is not complete without a visit to this historic inn and an interview with Miss Joe. Her years have weighed lightly upon her and she has grown 'young' gracefully. She is remarkably well preserved in mind and body and is always glad to welcome her friends. 176 REMINISCENCES OF MISS JOE VARNER The following are reminscences of Miss Joe Varner as told to her nephew, Mr. Paul J. Varner, ca. 1928. The original is in the Varner Collection, Georgia Historical Society, Savannah, Georgia. BRIEFS. 1. (All information given by Miss Joe Varner, unless otherwise indicated.) The Varner House was started in 1815 and finished in 1818. Mcintosh furnished the money and a man by the name of Hitchcock did the work. Hitchcock formerly built the county court house at Monticello and previous to that he built a courthouse in Clinton, S.C. Soon after its completion a man by the name of Joel Bailey went in partnership with him and ran the building as a hotel under his management for many years. Hitchcock was a very fine brick mason and made the brick which were used in the chimneys now standing. He also built the chimneys personally and did all the measuring and important cuttings. All the lumber was cut near-by and most of the nails were hand made. The doors are of Saler Pitcher type and it is supposedly known that they came from New England. There were formerly four annexes on the north side of the house. They were connected by a covered porch and were two storys [sic] with four rooms up and four rooms down. All these rooms (36) [32] were guests rooms. All of the eating was done in the main part of the house. The present well was dug in the early 70's. Previous to this the water came from a spring directly back of the house and is now practically drien up. At one time the well nearly caved in and large cracks were in the ground all around it and people were scared to go near it in fear of their lives. Indian Springs was once a great place for state politicians to meet. The years of meetings were always divided one year it was held at Stone Mountain and the next at Indian Springs. It was a contest between the places as to whom would have the biggest barbecue. Indian Springs always had their meeting on the 177 hill where the Lawson house now stands. Firey-tounged [sic] orators spoke all day and at night a big ball would be held that would last till daybreak. These festivities lasted usually about three days. The old ball room stood on the vacant lot on the south end of the house and was one story with a basement. The upper story was used for the dance hall and the bottom was used as a barroom where the best of whiskeys brandies, and ales were served. This ball room was built shortly after the house was built and was razed in the 90's. To the best of Miss Joe's knowledge there have been four porches. The dinning [sic] room at one time was five feet wider and longer than it is now. There have been several minor alterations previous to last year. What is now Miss Joe's bedroom was once a private sitting room and later a play room for children. The big room next to her bedroom was the parlor. In it was the big piano, lounges, books, and etc. What is now the sitting room was the lobby of the hotel and was after the War converted into Miss Joe's bedroom and private room. What is now the library was once Mcintosh's room and later Miss Amanda's bedroom. All other rooms upstairs were guest rooms. Miss Amanda Varner set out the trees now in front of the house. Previous to then there was a beautiful lawn with green grass. Briefs 2 BED in Aunt Joe's room was made for her father before he moved to Indian Springs. After the Civil War she had to sell some of the beds on account of the hard times at hand. PIANO was brought here in the 80's and the old one was disposed of. The piano was bought from a man who needed the money and he stated that it was very old. PICTURES in Aunt Joe's room were made in 1850 at Indian Springs. She was 13 years old at the time. The picture of two figures are Aunt Joe on the left and her cousin on the right. The single picture is Aunt Joe's mother Cynthia Varner. LEATHER TRUNKS were bought by Aunt Joe in New York at the price of $41.00 each in 1900. She made one a present to her sister Amanda Varner. CLOCK in Aunt Joe's room was given to Cynthia Varner before 1850 or around that year by a Dr. Saunders and has been running practically every [sic] since. It is an Ansonia. 178 GLOVES belonged to Aunt Joe's mother and are linen. She wore them the day that she was married. SHOE in the small trunk was one worn by Aunt Joe's brother's wife. She was a Miss Callie Pearson of Monticello and married Sam Dent Varner. LOCKS on the doors came from England and also some of the brick. Part of the brick were made here. CHEST with the two draws [sic] in it was make [sic] in Milledgeville by a man named Beardin. Beardin was in prison there and made it while serving a term there. After his pardon came or term expired Aunt Joe's father brought him to Monticello to work on his farm. This was in 1824. SINGLE four posted bed has been in family as far back as she can remember. WOODEN TRUNK has been in family always. PICTURE in the parlor is an old Greek scene and is entitled 'Eissologil' and represents the last battle of the Greeks in some war. Aunt Joe's father bought it early 18's [1800s?]. COTTON in museum was raised in Jasper in 1841 and is of the Nankeen variety. SMALL shoes were worn by all of Aunt Joe's brothers and sisters when they were babies. CANDLE moulds were used by Aunt Joe's mother and also Aunt Joe, and dates back as far off as 1800 or before. WAITER is the most priceless of anything according to Aunt Joe and is over 125 years old. This water [sic] was one used at the Varner [House] many years before the civil war and came from England. COTTON cards was [sic] used by one of the slaves on the place and the exact age is not known. Briefs 3 CARPET bag was bought in Milledgeville by Edward Varner and was used on all of his trips. This bag is the same kind that make the 'Carpet-baggers' so well known during the Civil War period. POT hooks were given to Aunt Joe. BULLET mould was given to Aunt Joe. 179 CANDLE sniffers [sic] has been in the family as long as she can remember and she can't recall exactly the date it was brought into her family. SHOVEL with a hole in the center was made in South Carolina and Aunt Joe's Father bought them when a young mru1. COAT in the case was one used around 1830 by Aunt Joe's brother. He was the head of the Militia in his district around Monticello. PICTURE in office is that of Governor Troup's grave can't recall where he is buried. HENRY Dillon bought the Varner House from 'Mathis'. Mathis had bought the house from Joel Bailey and Mcintosh. Aunt Joe's father Edward Varner bought the house from Henry Dillon. DOOR facings were carved with jack knives. BROWN bag in small trunk was a mesh bag and is made of silk. This bag was used by Aunt Joe's mother when she married. CHECKERED bag is known as a 'housewife' and was used to keep matches and small trinkets. This also belonged to Aunt Joe's mother. HAT in trunk was given to Aunt Amanda for a Christmas present by a Mrs. Elder long before the Civil War. SPINNING wheel has belonged to Aunt Joe for about forty years. She bought it with the reel and part of the loom from a Mrs. Harris for $1.25. Mrs. Harris stated that the spinning whell [sic] had been in her family as long as she could remember and had once belonged to her mother. BROKEN SWORD has belonged to Aunt Joe for many years and was found by some small boys near Indian Springs. An inscription near the hilt says: 'Artillary [sic] Fabrica Toledo 1369(?)'. WOODEN CANTEEN has a date carved in it '1864.' Aunt Joe doesn't recall where she got it. CHESTS. Aunt Joe's father had the large chest made about 1825 and was used to put bed-clothes in. The small chest in the office was left here before the Civil War by a travelling show. DEMAJOHN was bought by Aunt Joe's father in 1815 full of some 'liquid' to cure some sickness in the family. The vinegar in it now was made before the Civil War by Aunt Joe. SHALL [shawl] is made of fine silk and belonged to Aunt Joe's mother. She married in the shall and had it when a young woman. 180 LETTER FROM MISS AMANDA VARNER TO MISS JOE VARNER The following is a letter written from Cuthbert, Georgia, on April 8, 1861, by Miss Amanda Varner to her sister, Miss Joe Varner. The original is located in the Varner Collection, Georgia Historical Society, Savannah, Georgia. Cuthbert April 8, 1861 Dear Joe, I received your long looked for letter last night. It will be three weeks tomorrow since I had one before I was getting real mad, knowing how well you liked to write. I was disap- pointed in not getting what I wrote for, but the disappointment will not kill me as I have long since met with many such, but still, disappointment is something that we never get use to. You said if I could not be happy here to come home, so far as that is concerned I am as happy here as I could be anywhere. I could not give up my music now for anything, all I regret now is that I cannot continue until I am satisfied with playing well. I was as awkward when I commenced under Mr. , as if I never had taken a lesson before. Tell Sallie I fear she will beat me learning, I have taken five pieces. (You say she has taken 4 or 5.) I think Ma is early going to Macon, but this is going to be an early season. Bud Early says nearly everybody will be at the Springs this summer. I am sorry our house could.not be repaired, I think we will not be able to accommodate the crowd. I wish you could go to Macon soon and get what we will need, I will be compelled to have a large cov- ering of some kind if I go out anywhere. One would do us both this summer, Can't you get them from Mr. Swanson. I have plenty common dresses; one nice church dress and a white Swiss will do me. You must send me some nice stockings anyhow, you know what I bought were coarse, only 3 pair at that. The ladies here are all out in summer rigging already, everything is so forward here. You never saw such gardens, our pea vines have young peas on them. Everything is at least a month earlier here than at home. Joe left last Wednesday for Florida, Mr. Pat Gomley of this place was going on business and asked Joe to go with him for 181 company. They went in a buggy. They will have a good opportunity~f seeing the country. Joe you must not forget haveing [sic] my flowers shaded well, notice for the label, on my Atlanta ros~~ don't let the little negroes destroy them. What is Mrs. Park and the Col. doing and why don't Georgia come home? I wish I could be at Mrs. Park's a little while to get something good. Does she hear from T now? Write me all the news. I almost wish I could be at home when Puss is there. Will Lucie go up with her? I promised to select Lucie some music but have not heard any yet that I like. Ann sent me three suits of beautiful linen clothes to make for Jack. I told him I would make him some clothes, he was here last Sunday, saw the Omnibus go by and cried of there's Jolly's coach. I guess Bud Jack sent the linen. What is Cally doing? I wrote to her some time ago, thought she would certainly have written before now. You need not ask me to the wedding don't think I could stand to see you married. I don't object to Dick think you could never do better; I have not written to Nora Cohen yet. Tell Dr. Whitehead to write to her. I am sorry for your loss hope Emeline was not guilty. Mr. M.C. Lasen would hate it so much. What has become of him? Tell Kit not to forget the blue gloves she was going to knit for me. Puss Camp told me she was going to knit me some. How is Puss getting on now. Give my love to Uncle Pat. I wish I had some of his beef steak. I could make it fly. Ann sent me a bottle of French mustard by Jack. It is splendid. Nobody likes it here but me. When will the horses come home. I expect I will be for coming when I here [sic] the stage is run- ning, but I will stay until June if nothing happens to call me home. Write me all the late War news. It is only by chance I can get a paper here. I wish I could get the Telegraph, haven't seen one since here, Joe. Joe, I hope you won't fail to write to me once a week anyhow. , you don't know how disappointed I was all last week. Has Ma give out coming down? I don't think she could stand the trip to come and be hurried back, tell me who all the boarders are, this is my last stamp. They say there is none in Town, send me some. Love to all at home. Excuse pencil, pens are scarce. (Amanda) 182 LETTER OF MISS JOE VARNER TO JEFFERSON M. VARNER The following is a letter written by Miss Joe Varner to her brother, Jefferson M. Varner, who never received the letter, as he was killed in battle before it reached him. The original is in the Varner Collection, Georgia Historical Society, Savannah, Georgia. Indian Springs, Ga. June 25, 1862[?] Dear Brother: A few day's since, we received a short note from you, the first, I think directly to us, in about a year. I couldn't tell you how glad we are to know that you are alive and unhurt. When so many noble ones are falling, it is scarcely more than we can hope to have both of you spared throughout this long war, but God does things in His own right way. If you are spared, I hope it will be for some good purpose. I couldn't tell you what a great change in everything here--if you should drop down, you would never imagine this to be the Springs of former days. You seldom see a familiar face--nearly all are invalids here. Now and then a strong hearty fellow who is shirking from Military duty. The wheat harvest has just been gathered in, as complete a failure as you could imagine. Not one in a hundred has made the seed. They planted, but if the corn turns out well, we can live without the wheat. The corn is very small, but looks green and nice, although we are needing rain so badly. Pa is not attempting to run stages this summer. It would be useless for him to think of such a thing at the present high prices of everything. He has sold three of his horses. I suppose he was compelled to. Collier has a good crowd, so has Elder. We have but few in consequence of not running stages. The 183 report is everywhere that we don't take boarders. You heard about the fall Pa got from his buggy sometime since. I thought he would never recover, but he is nearly well now. Ma has been very feeble, but is a little better now. A while back she could scarcely creep about. I believe the negroes are generally well at the plantation except old Aunt Chany. She is old and low down now. We wouldn't be surprised any day at her death. Adaline had pneu-monia in March and Pa brought her up here thinking she would soon be cured, but she lingered until last Sunday, when she died. The poorest mortal you ever saw. Do you get to see many of your old friends around Richmond? I had a letter from Lt. Tom Carter. He is yet suffering with his foot. Since Brother Jack's death, I've wanted to write you and General [brother John Clark] a long letter, but have felt very little like doing morning or anything and evening if I now I couldn't wished it. We get a don't -ha-ve- - much company but I have a thousand little hindrances every day. Joe Varner is here to assist Pa, but he is a weak inefficient fellow. Ma received a letter from General today. He said something about wanting shirts--we will send some the earliest opportunity. I believe I've heard you speak of Judge Meeks of He came to the house this evening. Dr. White had just left his to spend the sum- mer at home. His health is too poor to follow up the Army. Capt. Watron is very feeble. The wound on his head is a bad looking place. Dave Patterson of the 14th Regiment came home a few days since. He told me he saw you and General in April. Bailey's regiment is on the crash yet -armed. Two of his men brought home dead yesterday. They have averaged one or two every week this summer. Did anybody write you about old Andrew's horse's death? He was pulling a load of boards up the hill. His bone broke just above the knee and we had him shot. We have just heard that Harrison Mobley is dead. I suppose the poor fellow had no friend with him. Did you see over boy's burial? 184 Mrs. Head thinks she will get Billie's remains. Do you think she can? It is hot and dusty here. Tell General I will write to him soon. Sis wrote to him just two days ago. Can't you see Lt. Col. Bill Jordan of the 4th Ga.? His wife is here. All send love. Destroy this letter. Yours, Joe 185 LETTER OF CYNTHIA VARNER TO JOHN C. VARNER The following is a letter written by Cynthia Varner to her son, John C. Varner, on June 26, 1862. The original is in the Varner Collection, Georgia Historical Society, Savannah, Georgia. Indian Springs, Ga June 26th, 1862. My dear Son: I have wished for a long time to write you. I think of you very often and wish very much to see you. You must be careful of your self, and when you go into battle wear citizen's clothes. I am greatly obliged to Jeff and you for your timely aid. I do not know what I should have done without it. Times are harder now than ever, bacon thirty seven and half cents per pound, sugar --- cts, butter 20, flour 25 per barrel. I have only a few boarders, but as many as I can well feed. Mr. Collier has perhaps 40 boarders, Mr. Elder very few. Uncle Pat cooks for me, and I am put up to all I know to get anything to cook and keep a good table. Everything is sent to Macon and other places. There are a great many sick soldiers that must be fed. I would like so much my dear son to see you. Every one speaks so highly of you. I assure you it makes me very proud of you. You don't know how often I think of you, arid how I wish to see your dear face once more. Be sure to take care of your self, and remember you have a mother that loves you and prays God will care for her darling son and protect him from all harm. I cant tell you how often I think of you and wish to see you, and be near you. I trust God will spare you and send you safely home to your affectionate mother. You must write as often as you can for I feel very anxious when I dont get letters, so be sure and write as often as possible. Last spring when Jack died the water was so high I could not carry him to Jasper, but next fall I wish 186 him moved, Let it cost what it may. His death, my son, was a great blow to your poor mother. Much that made life pleasant vanished when he left me, but you are left to me. You must be a good son, I know you will for I believe you love me. Write and tell me if you need clothes. I have a lot of socks if you need them. My health is not good. Your father suffers greatly from his shoulder. Last winter while at the plantation he fell from a buggy and hurt his shoulder badly, and this spring he went in the country and just before he got home he fell out of the buggy and hurt his face. Mandy wrote you yesterday. Joe went to Jackson today. Joe Varner I expect will stay with us this summer. He left the army on account of ill heath. Everything is dull, and every thing seems sad and gloomy to me. Georgia says she is writing you a long letter. Callie is sick, but not very. Adline died Sunday. The negroes at the plantation were well when I last:heard. None of Clinton's family have been up. Tell Jeff I intend this letter for him as well as yourself. Manda sends love, and Joe and Callie also. Write soon and tell me about your clothes. Nrs. Park heard Fred was going to join the regulars. Dont let him do it, it nearly ran his poor mother crazy. Dont let him think of such a thing. And now my dear son goodbye, God help you. Write soon to your affectionate mother. C. Varner P.S. Soon after this was finished I received a letter from you. I was very glad to hear. Be sure to write soon again. I will send the shirts as soon as I can. 187 LETTER OF J.A. NELSON TO CYNTHIA VARNER The following is a letter written fom J.A. Nelson to Cynthia Varner concerning her attempt to obtain the remains of her son, Jefferson M. Var- ner, who was killed at Malvern Hill, Virginia, where he was serving as a lieutenant in the Sixth Georgia Regiment, Confederate States of America. The original is in the Varner Collection, Georgia Historical Society, Savannah, Georgia. Twiggs County August 12, 1863 Mrs. Varner Your letter dated the 16th of January was not received until today. I cant account for the delay of it. Ere this I know you have given up all hopes of receiving any information from me respecting your son. The time I wrote to you I was going to send for my son circumstances prevented my doing so. I did not get his remains horne until the 24th of April. The grave was marked, each one's name was written on the board. The Chaplain of the Regiment whose name is Thigpen was the man that assisted in getting him. From what I understand his services can be had at any time for that purpose. And he was the only man that I could get. He knew exactly where the grave was. Dr. Bonds, the gentleman that went after my son said that not a feature could be recognized. An oil cloth that covered his face was not entirely removed, on account of his being so much decayed. His clothes were perfectly good,,and by that means his body was managed as well as it was. The remains of your son and the other gentlemen were not interfered [sic] with at all. They were all buried only 8 inches under the ground. I procured a coffin in Richmond with all ease, it was only a common one. I could get nothing else. Any other information, Mrs. Varner, I can give you on the subject, I'll take great pleasure in doing. Mr. Thigpen knows the body of each. Yours very respectfully J.A. Nelson 188 INSURANCE POLICY FOR THE INDIAN SPRINGS HOTEL The following is the insurance policy issued on the Indian Springs Hotel on January 4, 1850, No. 3603, for $6,000. The Southern Mutual Insurance Company. In consideration of a note of hand, of even date herewith, given to said Company by Edward Varner Agent for Henry Dillon for the sum of ninety Dollars, one half of which has been paid in Cash, and endorsed thereon by which note said Edward Varner Agent to obligate himself and his legal representatives to com- ply with the provisions of the Act of Incorporation and By-Laws hereunto annexed, do hereby Insure said Edward Varner Agent for Henry Dillon and his legal representatives against loss or dam- age to him under the conditions and limitations expressed in the Act aforesaid, and subject to the lien upon said property, created by said Act for the term of one year from this fourth day of January 1850 at noon, until the 4th day of January 1851 - to the amount of Six Thousand Dollars, on the wood two story & one story buildings now in the occupation of Henry Dillon but to be immediately occupied by said Edward Varner known as the Indian Spring Hotel - including as well the Hotel proper and the building thereto attached as also the building on the oppo- site side of the street situate at the Indian Springs in the county of Butts and state of Georgia - being not more than three-fourths the value of the property described in the speci- fication of said lodged with the Secretary of said Company. be it that the absolute and conditional Funds of said Company are hereby bound and made subject to satisfy and all the damages, if more than five per cent which may happen to said property within the term aforesaid, not exceeding the amount above named, and according to the true intent and mean- ing of the Act and Rules aforesaid. Provided always and it is hereby declared, that this Corporation shall not be liable to make good any loss or damage which may happen or take place by means of any invasion, insurrection, riot, or civil commotion, or of any military or usurped power.And provided further, and in case the insured shall have already any other insurance against loss by fire, on the property herein insured, not notified to this Corporation and mentioned in or endorsed upon this Policy, then this insurance shall be void and 189 of no effect. And if the said insured, or assigns, shall hereafter make any other insurance on the said property, and shall not, with all reasonable diligence, give notice thereof to this Company and have the same endorsed on this instrument, or otherwise acknowledged by them in writing this Policy shall cease, and be of no further effect. And in case of any other insurance upon the property herein sured whether prior or subsequent to the date of this Policy the insured shall not, in case of loss or damage, be entitled to demand or recover of this Company on this Policy, any greater portion of the loss or damage sustained, than the amount hereby insured shall bear to the whole amount insured on the said property. And it is agreed and declared to be the true intent and meaning of the parties hereto, that in case the above mentioned property shall at any time after the making, and during the time this Policy would otherwise continue in force, be appropriated, applied, or used, to or for the purpose of carrying on or exercising therein any trade, business or vocation whereby the degree of risk is increased, unless herein otherwise specially provided for, or hereafter agreed to by this Company, in writing to be added to or endorsed upon this Policy, then, and from thence forth so long as the same shall be so appropriated, applied or used, these presents shall cease, and be of no force or effect. And it is moreover declared, that this insurance is not intended to apply to or cover any books of accounts, written securities, deeds or other evidences of title to lands, nor to bonds, bills, notes, or other evidences of debt, nor to money or bullion. And that this Policy is made and accepted in reference to the proposals and conditions hereunto annexed, which are to be used and resorted to, in order to explain the rights and obligations of the parties hereto, in all cases, not herein otherwise specially provided for. This Insurance [the risk not being changed] may be continued for such further term as shall be agreed on; the premium therefor being paid and endorsed on this Policy, or a receipt given for the same. The interest of the insured in this Policy is not assignable, unless by consent of this Company manifested in writing; and in case of any transfer or termination of the interest of the insured, either by sale or otherwise, without such consent, this Policy shall from thenceforth be void and of no effect. In witness whereof, the Southern Mutual Insurance Company have caused these presents to be signed by their President, and attested by their Secretary; but the same shall not be binding until countersigned by R.S. Lancey Agent of this Company at Macon, Ga. Attested, Countersigned at Macon this fourth day of January in the year of our Lord, One Thousand Eight Hundred and fifty. R.S. Lancey Agent. 190 INVENTORY OF FURNITURE IN THE VARNER HOUSE Following is the inventory of the furniture of Henry Dillon in the Varner House, taken in 1850, presumably sold to Edward Varner. No. Room 21 II II 22 II II 23 " II 24 II " 25 13 rna tresses 6 Chairs 3 small tables 1 Bed Stid 1 Window Curtain 31 Feather pillows 5 Bolsters 10 Single Mattresses 8 Single Osnaburgs 10 DO Cotton & Shucks 7 Do Do 10 Do Double 1 Bed Stid 2 Dressing Tables 1 Chair 38 Fether pillars [sic] 9 Bolsters 2 Wash Stands 2 Tables (dressing) 10 Mattresses 9 Do Osnaburgs 1 Doz. Looking Glasses 11 C C Chambers 2 Doz. Ewers & Basins 1 Windsor Chair 2 Slop Bucketts 14 Pillars 2 Bolsters 20 Mattresses 1 Dressing TablC! 2 Bed Stid 4 Chairs 2 Window Curtains 3 Tables for 1 Bed Stid 10 Chairs and over 3.50 .60 .75 45.50 3.60 2.25 1.50 .25 . 75 1.25 3.00 1.00 3.50 1.50 4.50 23.25 6.25 30.00 8.00 35.00 10.50 45.00 1.50 1.75 .60 . 75 1.25 1.00 .75 3.50 1.00 .15 5.00 .50 28.50 11.25 2.00 1.50 35.00 9.00 4.00 1.65 10.00 .38 1.00 .75 1.25 4.00 1.00 .60 .25 10.50 2.50 80.00 .75 2.00 2.40 .50 2.00 1.50 . 60 6.00 $427.38 191 No. Room 26 II II 27 II II 28 II II 29 II " 30 " " 31 " II 32 " " 33 II " 34 " II 35 " " 36 II II 37 II II 38 II " 39 & 40 Amt Brot Forward 2 Bed Stids 2 Do Do 2 Do Do 1/1.00 1/1.50 2 Dressing Tables for 1 Window Curtain 1 Chair 5 dressing Tables 1 Wash Stand 1 Bed Stid 8 Chairs 2 Bed Stids 2 Do Do 1 Bed Stid 2" " 1 Chair 1 Bed Stid 2 Chairs 1 Tub 2 Bed Stids 3 Chairs for 1 Dressing Table 2 Bed Stids 1/1.00 1/1.25 3 Chairs 2 Tables 1/.50 1/.75 2 Bed Stids 2 Chairs 1 Table 2 Window Curtains 1 Bed Stid 3 Chairs 3 Stids 2 Chairs 1 Tub Lipman Ringe 2 Bed Stids 1 Stid & Chair for Amt Over Amt Brot forward $42 7. 38 .75 1.50 . 75 1.50 1.25 2.50 .13 .60 .50 2.50 .50 1.50 .50 4.00 1.00 2.00 1.00 2.00 1.25 1.25 2.50 .50 1.00 .60 1.20 .50 1.00 2.00 1.25 .38 2.25 .50 1.50 1.25 1.25 .50 .12 2.50 1. 00 .75 .25 1.00 .50 1.50 1.25 .60 3.75 1.20 . 37 .75 1.50 1.13 $478.00 $478.00 192 No. Room 39 & 40 1 Window Curtain 3 Bed Stids for 2 Bed Stids 1 Bed Stid 3 Bed Stids 3 Bed Stids for 1 Dressing Table 3 Bed Stids 1 Table 1 Table 3 Bed Stids 3 Bed Stids 2 Tables 1/1.00 l/.2S 1 Table 1 Chair 3 Bed Stids Up Stairs 1 Lot Benches for 6 Candle Holders 1 Dressing Table " " 3 13 Chairs for 1 Table & Glass for 3 Matresses for 1 Bed Stid 1 Bowl " " 4 3 Matresses 1 Bed Stid 2 Pillars 1 Glass 1 Chair 1 Window Curtain " " 6 s Mattresses 4 Pillars 3 Chairs 1 Dressing Table 1 Trundle Bed Stid OVER Amt. Brot forward " " 8 s Mattresses 1 Glass 1 Table 1 Wash Stand 4 Split Chairs 1 Stool Chair 2 Bed Stids for 1 Curtain 1 Bolster 1 Pillar 1 c.c. Chamber 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 .13 2.00 2.00 1.00 3.00 2.SO .so 3.00 .so .2S 3.00 3.00 1.2S .so .so 3.00 3.SO .lS .7S .so 7.00 . 7S 8.00 . 7S .12 3.SO lO.SO .so .7S l.SO .2S .60 .2S 3.SO 17.SO .7S 3.00 .60 1.80 .so . 7S $S62.6S $S62.6S 4.00 20.00 1.2S .so .so .so 2.00 .so s.oo .2S 1.2S .7S .40 193 No. Room 15 II II 16 II II 9 II " 10 1 Bed Stid 1 Straw Mattress 1 Table 2 Chairs 3 Window Curtains 3 Mattresses for 1 Pillar 1 Bed Stid 2 Tables 2 Pillars 2 Pillars 2 Mattresses 1 Bed Stid 1 Chamber 1 Looking Glass 1 Table 1 Window Curtain 1 And Irons 2 Chairs for 1 Mattress 1 Stid 2 Chairs 1 Window Curtain 6 Bench Spreds II " Amt Brot forward " " 14 1 Fiddler's Stand 2 Bed Stids 2 Mattresses 1 Straw Mattress 2 Pillars 3 Chairs for 1 Table " " 13 1 Mattress 2 Pillars 1 Table 3 Chairs for 1 Ewer & Basin 1 Window Curtain 1 Bed Stid 1 Tavern Bell Lipman's 4 Mattresses 4 Pillars 2 pr. sheets 1.00 1.00 . 75 .60 1.20 .20 .60 7.00 .50 2.00 .50 1.00 .75 . 75 3.50 1.50 1.50 7.00 .75 .13 1.25 .25 .25 .25 .60 3.50 .50 .50 1.00 .25 . 75 4.50 .75 $634.08 $634.08 .75 2.50 .75 1.00 1.50 5.00 1.00 1.50 1.00 .50 3.00 .62 1.25 .30 1.25 .50 . 75 6.00 2.50 . 75 1.50 10.00 3.00 3.00 194 No. Room Lipman's Store 1 Dimity spred 1 Quilt 8 Blankets 1 Spred 2 Bed Stids 1/1.50 1 Dressing Table 1 Ewer & Basin for 1/.75 1.50 1.50 .75 6.00 .10 2.25 1.25 11 Chairs for 94 Chairs (dining room) 2 Solar Lamps 1 Centre Table & Cover for 10 Flag Chairs for 1 Flag Sofa 1 II II 4 Picturs [sic] & Frames 1 Carpet & Rug for 1 Settee 12 Dining Tables 1 8 Day Clock 4.50 .50 47.00 3.00 6.00 18.00 8.00 12.00 6.00 4.00 16.00 18.00 2.50 1.50 18.00 10.00 $854.48 Amt Brot forward $854.48 3 Bed Stids 1.25 2 Mattresses 2.50 1 Trundle Bed Stid 3 Window Curtains 1.00 1 Wash Stand 3 Parlor Curtains 3.00 1 Window Curtain 1 Berau [bureau] 3 Window Curtains for 1 Slab 1 Lot Knives & Forks 1 Do 11 Spoons Lamps Sugar Casters Lot Sugar Casters Pantry Room Lot 11 '' Casters & Salt 11 II dishes 39 Window Curtains .15 1 pr Do 63 Sheets .60 5 Sheets .60 16 Bed Spreds 1.50 3 Counterpins 2.00 5 Calico Spreds .50 Foot Valances for Lot Table & Tea Spoons for 1 Table 2 Benches in kitchen .50 5 Sheet Iron Pans Lot Coffee Urns for 3.75 5.00 1.00 3.00 .50 9.00 .13 4.00 1.00 .75 4.00 .50 6.00 4.00 1.00 1.25 5. 85 .15 37.80 3.00 24.00 6.00 2.50 .50 3.00 1.00 1. 00 5.00 5.00 195 No. Room 1 Muffin Baker Lot Pots & Ovens 1 Dining Room Table 1 Doz. Soup Plates 8 Baking Pans Saucer Stak Sugar & 3 Large Dishes for .50 15.00 1.50 1.50 .12 1.00 6.50 $1020.16 Amt Brot forward $1020.16 Salt Sellars & Cups & Saucers Baking pans for Dishes plats [sic] cups & saucers and sugar dishes casters & Dishes for 2 Pitchers Stake dish tops & for Lot Tumblers for 2 Dish Covers Lot Candl Sticks Bowl & Pitcher 1 Looking Glass Curcular Table 2 Large Benches 2 Dressing Tables 3 painted Benches 1.50 .75 9.00 3.00 1.25 3.00 3.50 .75 . 75 .75 1.25 2.50 . 75 1.50 .50 1.50 $1062.41 Reed two notes of Four Hundred & Fifty dollars each in payt of the above bill of articles. 27 June 1850 Henry Dillon by Agt J.M. Burney 196 NEWSPAPER ARTICLE WRITTEN ABOUT "OLD VARNER PLACE" The following appeared in the Macon Telegraph in 1926, concerning the Indian Springs Hotel and the Varner House. Indian Springs House Is Noted Georgia's Great Entertained at Old Varner Place Miss Jo Political Power By Hazel Gewinner The old Varner House-Miss Joe, Alexander Stephens, William Yancey, Robert Toombs,Ben Hill, The Cobbs-the figure that is outlined sharply against the dark background of the days of Georgia's land treaties with the Creek Indians, General William Mcintosh, Henry Lamar. These and others of Georgia's greatest during the century that is past are pieced, like bright bits into a patchwork quilt of colorful pattern, by the old Varner House at Indian Springs. Today it stands a little back from the road surrounded by ancient trees, arresting the attention of travelers with the look that speaks as plainly as words and says, 'Here is a story of other days. Laughter has floated through my corridors. From my windows, that stare blank and cold now, have looked the fairest and the loveliest women this land has ever known. Through my doors have passed those whom Georgia cradled to make her great. Stop and you shall hear.' When Cotton 'ivas king in Georgia the planters and their families gathered in the Fall of the year at the Lanier House in Macon for a ball of such splendor that the diamonds worn by the women, diamonds set in silver, would have filled a peck measure from all the rich cotton-growing counties they came, particularly from Twiggs and Wilkinson, where there was greater wealth than in any other part of the State. After the brilliant ball in Macon, they traveled by state coach or in their carriages, or on horseback, to Indian Springs for a round of dances and gaities, at the Varner House. 197 It was not the old Varner House in those days. It was a building of imposing structure with a great ball room on one side, quarters for hundreds of slaves in the rear, stables for blooded horses, gardens of rare beauty, and winding paths, lover's lanes, leading to the Spring famous with red and white man alike for the medicinal value of its crystal water. Cotillion Popular The cotillion, waltz and schottische were danced by the woman in brocaded velvet gowns and rustling silks, and men in stock collars, the chivalry of the Old South in their looks and manners. The names of the negro string band that played for these dances have come down to the present time as makers of such music that never will they be forgotten. Jennie Butler was the fiddler. Bill Brown played the clarinet, Bell Brown played the bass fiddle. Through the throng of beautiful women and courtly men threaded the negro slaves bearing huge silver trays heaped with refreshment for the dancers. Brave days they were in Georgia's history, days of splendor and of plenty. Barbecues were held which lasted all day long. To these festivities the entire countryside came, in cou~tly equipages such as the popular victoria was in those days, in wagons, on horseback, in carts, afoot. The barbecues were really political meetings of great import. Candidates declared themselves and outlined their purposes under the ancient trees that surround the old house. No doubt Alexander Stephens himself ~poke there for his name is found in the old hotel register th~t is still kept in the office of the Varner House. Perhaps he a1ked for the support of Miss Jo, who was a political power in the state, one whose influence was sought by great and small alike. At this house were held many of the secret political meetings which decided debatable questions 'without benefit of primaries.' In the Atlanta Journal for June 14, 1914, Miss Jo is called, The Mayou'[sic] and Council of Indian Springs. Many, many years before Col. Van McKibben, the father of Mrs. Andrew Lane of Macon, called her the 'Ben Hill of Butts.' By this name she was widely known over the state. Georgia's Most Popular Woman Large, dark-eyed, handsome, are words used by those who knew her in the days of her youth to describe this woman who is nearing her ninetieth birthday. The most popular woman in Georgia in her young days she was termed by others. She is a member of the famous Hardwick family of Georgia whose history is traced in the volume, Notable Southern Families, by Zelia Armstrong. She went to live at the Varner House when she was ten years old and is making her home there today. Seated in a rocking chair with a straight back she brings to mind, somehow, Whistler's picture of his mother. She receives her visitors with a gracious friendliness and treats 198 them as if they were all children, as indeed they are, to this lady of four score and ten. 'So warm a welcome did Miss Jo gave my father whenever he arrived at her home,' said Judge Bridges Smith in speaking of her, 'that he always said a visit to her was like a visit to a near and a dear relative.' Of her home Miss Jo said, 'It took two years to build this house. A man named Hitchcock built the chimneys. All the doors and windows were chiseled with a pocket knife. It was built by General William Mcintosh for a hostelry. He was own cousin to Governor Troup. I went once to the Mcintosh home on the Chattahoochee River to visit the family of Chilly Mcintosh, the son of William Mcintosh. I remember stone steps going up to big boulders that General Mcintosh had had fashioned for his children so that they could easily mount their ponies.' Treaty Signed at Home At the Varner House was signed the treaty on Feb. 7, 1825, which William Mcintosh paid for with his life. Under this treaty all Indian possessions in Georgia were ceded to the whites, and an early removal of the tribes to lands equal in fertility was arranged for. The niche in the walls where this treaty was signed is pointed out to visitors today. The Indians of both Upper and Lower Creeks were gathered about the Varner House when the treaty was concluded between the United States Commissioners and the Indian chiefs. The large rock at the South end of the house remains today where on that day of Feb. 7, 1825, when Hopoethleyoholo, a chief hostile to Mcintosh, mounted it and stirred the Indians to frenzy with his denunciations of Mcintosh and his friends. The rock is known by the name of the Mcintosh Rock and is preserved as a memorial by the Piedmont Continental Chapter D.A.R. of Atlanta, marked by them with a handsome bronze tablet. In March, 1916, the old Varner House was given to the William Mcintosh Chapter D.A.R. of Jackson, Ga., by Miss Jo. The home is to be known as the Varner-Mcintosh Memorial. It was dedicated on June 14. In a wine room of the house is a museum of Indian relics, among them a peace pipe found on the place. Preserving in the memories the pattern of great names and brave deeds the old Varner House will ever be, as is its venerable mistress, dear to those who hold in their hearts a love for the colorful days of Georgia's history during the past century. It has been preserved beyond the shadow of a doubt, to become a shrine where pilgrirnmages may be made by those who burn with love for the 'red old hills'. Long live the old Varner House at Indian Springs. 199 LETTER TO MISS JOE VARNER FROM H.J. LA}~R The following letter was written to Miss Joe Varner by H.J. Lamar, Jr., concerning the renovation of the Varner House, dated March 23, 1882, from Macon, Georgia. H.J. Lamar, J.W. Rankin H.J. Lamar, Jr. Office of Lamar, Rankin ~Lamar. Wholesale and Retail Druggists. 102 & 104 Cherry Street. Macon, Ga. Proprietors of Brewers Lung Restorer Macon, Ga., March 23rd, 1882 Dear Miss Joe I would give my house two good coates of paint- I will send up some paint for your inside two colors, so you can paint the inside of your rooms. I think that it would be a good idea to make more rooms out of your ball room. Go in at the door fronting your room and have a hall six foot wide run the hall half the width from the door and then turn and have a hall thorough [through] the center of the ball room, which would give you six more bed rooms with the two you now have in the house eighth [eight] good rooms, fix them good & nice. It would be cheaper and better to plaster the hall & rooms, have ventilation over each door. I am anxious you to fix up, so you can attract customers certainly will pay you and do not be frightened at the expense. Let me know about your blinds and I will find out what they will cost you Yours truly H.J. Lamar 200 A BRIEF SKETCH OF INDIAN SPRINGS The following was probably written in the 1920s. The original is located in the Varner Collection, Georgia Historical Society, Savannah, Georgia. A BRIEF SKETCH OF INDIAN SPRINGS, GEORGIA, A GREAT HEALTH RESORT. For further information address W B Powell, Indian Springs, Ga., or hotels. More than 100 years ago the spring at Indian Springs was discovered by an intrepid hunter who, to escape the Indians, buried himself among the high weeds and rocks. Thus seeking cover he found the spring, but did not tarry long for the Indians knew of the place before him. He finally made his escape and told of the clear water that trickled from the side of a giant rock, low down in the coolness of a ravine. Early in 1800 General Mcintosh, a half breed and cousin of Governor Troup built a cabin at the Springs near the 'Healing Waters', as the spring was known by the Indians. A small corn mill was erected on Big Sandy where now stands one of the last waterpower driven mills of the South. Not until 1821, when a treaty was signed with the Indians, were other improvements made. For more than 100 years Indian Springs has been a Mecca for thousands and tens of thousands who sought the health giving waters. It is estimated that more than 200,000 people have the [sic] visited the Springs, partook of Nature's remedy, and returned to their homes in health. This is no idle statement. The evidence is all over the state and the South, and at the Springs on cots, on crutches, in wheel chairs and in a few weeks are able to walk and enjoy life to the fullness thereof. Weak, emaciated men, have tolu me they gained a pound a day during their stay. I have seen men come in the agonies of rheumatism and neuritis and shattered nerves, who, in two weeks were relieved, if not cured. The temperature of the water remains the same the year round--about 69 degrees Fahr.,--specific gravity 1.142 against distilled water at 1.000. 201 GASES--Azotic gas 0.156; carbonic acid gas 1.000; sulphurated gas (hydrogen) 3.005--total 4.161 cubic inches. SALINE CONTENTS--carbonate of magnesia 1.982; sulphate of lime 7.152; sulphate of potash 3.415--total saline contents 84.077 grains. Diseases peculiar to females who lead a sedentary life, paralytical attacks, malaria infested; stomach, liver and kidney troubles, skin diseases, headaches, nervous troubles, etc., as well as rheumatism and neuritis find relief and respond to the use of the water. The water posses [sic] diuretic, diapharetic, cathartic, alternative and tonic properties. It is pleasant to drink--and you can drink of it freely, for it is very light and palatable. HOW TO REACH THE SPRINGS--By Souther [sic] Railroad to Flovilla or Jackson, where taxis will carry you to springs. By auto route No 42. Indian Springs is located midway between Atlanta and Macon. From Macon you turn north at Sylvester from off Dixie Highway. From Atlanta you travel out of city on South Pryor street. Good roads carry you to the Springs from Griffin, Covington and Monticello. HOTELS--Hotel Elder, The Foy, Mrs Bessie Bryans, Arnold House, and lesser boarding and rooming houses. Rates from $1 to $5 the day, American plan. ATTRACTIONS--At the springs is a casino with billiards, bowling alley, sulphur baths, refreshments, barber shop, and other accommodations. A large swimming pool using filtered water is popular. Near by is Watkins' Park and Pool. There are excellent motor roads, and wonderful walks through the wildwood, up hill and down dale, with a riot of flowers and greenery. Two creeks through the town afford best sanitary needs. We could refer by permission to hundreds of promonent [sic] people who have been cured by using Indian Spring water, but refrain as it entails too much correspondence on their part answering the skeptical. We ask you to come and see for yourself. Meet the people here who will attest to what the water has done for them. It seems unbelievable, but they will tell you the truth and truth is stanger [sic] than fiction. Leave your medicine bottles at horne and come and take Nature's own treatment--a God-given flow of medicinal water that have [sic] proved efficient to white man for over 100 years. APPENDIX B Accounts of Political Gatherings 203 YOUNG MEN'S DEMOCRATIC CONVENTION HELD AT INDIAN SPRINGS The following article appeared in The Federal Union, Milledgeville, July 30, 1844, concerning a convention held at Indian Springs. The Young Men's Democratic Convention ~ the Indian Springs It was not in our power to procure the minutes of the proceedings of ~his great meeting; but as we were present, and make our report from personal observation, we trust we shall be able to make it acceptable to our friends. On the evening of Wednesday, the 24th inst. the gathering of the people began to take place, and it was soon obvious that a great meeting was at hand. Every corner in which an individual could be placed, was occupied, and a large number were left to shift as they could. A great many tents were erected in the surrounding hills and the night passed off with anticipations the most agreeable. Early in the morning of Thursday, the crowd seemed to be gathering in, and by nine o'clock, three or four thousand persons were on the ground; by midday the number had increased to five thousand. The business of the meeting being the interchange of ideas and opinions, arrangements were made for the hearing of public speakers. The people were addressed at the Indian Spring Hotel at 9 o'clock by the Hon. Rowel [sic] Cobb, in a strain of fluent eloquence rarely equalled. The reception it met was animating in the highest degree, and fully prepared the audience for the enjoyment of the able efforts which were to follow. He was followed by H.V. Johnson, Esq., who for about an hour and a half, held the vast multitude in deep silence and attentive scrutiny of a speech worthy of all praise. Few speeches have ever been delivered to so large an audience, with such universal approbation - all concurred in the opinion that he went beyond the reputation he had before acquired and fully entitled himself to a place amongst our most talented and eloquent speakers. Col. David C. Campbell of Bibb, who had been selected as President of the day by the committee of arrangements; then announced the names of the several Vice Presidents, who had been appointed and requested each to assemble with the delegates of his county to form a procession, and proceed to the stand which had been erected near the Mountain Spout Spring. In conformity with this request, the multitude assembled at 204 the stand, accompanied by several hundred ladies, who by their presence, gave zest and animation to the scene. The President then introduced to the audience the Hon. Hiram Warner, who for about an hour, poured forth an unbroken argument, which it will be hard, if not impossible to answer. He spoke to the understanding, and we have understood that several who had not made up their minds were confirmed for Polk and Dallas. Next followed Mr. Samford, of Meriwether. The fatigue of the audience, which had now listened for several hours to other speakers, did not hinder the fine effect of his short address. He filled up the short time which was allowed with a brilliant and animated address, which was closed, that dinner might be announced. He was peculiarly happy in his allusion to Mr. O'Connell. When urged by the multitude to go on, 'Not for me, but for the zeal you have in the cause, do you say go on.' He concluded with a few pertinent remarks. The meeting now adjourned and partook of the barbacue [sic], which was prepared for the occasion. After a recess of about two hours, the people again assembled, and were addressed by Hon. Wm. H. Stiles, in his accustomed, beautiful and finished style. Able, eloquent and sarcastic, he left on the minds of his hearers impressions not to be forgotten. The Hon. Walter T. Colquitt, was next introduced. Much was expected of him, for this is his chosen field. He carne after many and able speakers, who had, it may well be said, exhausted many topics. But he knew his place and his powers - there was ground and time enough for him, and although he held on for two hours or longer, there was no evidence in the audience of fatigue or impatience. Being by these circumstances loosed from the necessity of the argument he was left to handle the particular claims of the candidates before the people. And if the meeting has left on our mind a thing to be regretted, it is that his account of the character and pretensions of Mr. Clay, could not have been heard by every voter in the State. His vivid picture of tlr. Clay's morals, political associations, and deadly hostility to Southern interests, can hardly be surpassed. Nor was he less happy in the account he gave of the character and claims of James K. Polk, our own candidate. A character so elevated, so pure, and so unblemished, could scarcely have been conceived. Only think of the venom, the recklessness, and the slanderous tongues of the whigs, not having a spot on which to fix their blackening pencils. The toryism of his grand father, is their only target, and this may be true or false. His father and his uncles are recorded as whigs of the first water. They were the first signers of the 205 first Declaration of Independence in the United States, and acted in conformity with this through the war. Mr. Polk is therefore of good revolutionary whig blood. What was Mr. Clay's father? And had he any Grand Father? Consult Mr. Clay's life on these questions. The evening being far advanced, the President arose to adjourn the meeting, but calls for Gen. Harralson, caused him to defer it. He accordingly made his appearance and for a time delivered an animating and fervent close to the arguments of the day. He declined to continue the discussion, for the time of the audience had been heavily taxed. Previous to the adjournment, a proposition was made to hold a Mass Meeting of the Democratic party at Macon, on the last Thursday in August. It was carried by acclamation. The meeting now adjourned with the understanding that the discussion would be continued at the Indian Spring Hotel, at 7 o'clock P.M. Evening Discussion. The Hon. Marshall J. Wellborn of Columbus, addressed the audience, which had scarcely been lessened by the adjournment. It is known to our readers that this gentleman has long been a distinguished member of the Whig party. He is also a distinguished jurist, and by all acknowledged to be an exemplary man and good citizen. His convictions are the result of cool judgment, and his separation from his party, a subject of deep regret. Such a witness for our cause is invaluable. He spoke in great good feeling but with arguments strong and conclusive. He, with great modesty desired to close earlier, but the crowd demanded of him to go on. And he did go on, for about two hours and a half. Never did we hear a clearer or stronger argument. There were many whigs present, and some we have understood, acknowledged that his arguments were irrestible. The general impression produced, was as strong as we have ever witnessed. The time had now grown so late that other speakers though called for, either declined altogether, or spoke only a few words. We may mention the names of Mr. Howard, of Crawford, Mr. Samford, Mr. Johnson, of Muscogee, and if there were others, we did not remain to hear them. We have thus brought to a close our narrative of the proceedings at this great meeting. Great we call it - not because of the extent of the accommodations, or the number of persons present - but because of the spirit which animated the bosoms of all who had at heart the success of the Democratic cause. The success of our cause in Georgia, is no longer doubtful. The accounts we received from all quarters forbid us to doubt it. The facts we witnessed equally forbid it. We cannot be divided 206 - we are an increasing and irresistable phalanx. The spirit which animated this meeting could not be satisfied. The want of more room, more power to accommodate a multitude was severely felt. The meeting was made smaller by these difficulties at the Spring. The voice of all demanded an opportunity for a meeting in one of our cities. -They have accordingly appointed a Meeting in Macon on the last Thursday in August, at which, we are assured all who go will find suitable accommodations. Here we hope to meet our friends in a mass meeting, worthy of our cause; and equal to the feelings which animate every democrat. 207 DINNER HELD AT INDIAN SPRINGS The following article appeared in The Federal Union, Milledgeville, Georgia, on September 8, 1840. Dinner at the Indian Springs. A great meeting of the people was held on the 2d inst. at the Indian Springs. We were present, and make our statements from actual observation. When the meeting which was held at Milledgeville on the 4th of July, was determined on, it was not doubted that Congress would have adjourned in sufficient time to allow of the presence of our members. Being disappointed in this, and feeling the necessity of a closer intercourse between ourselves and our Representatives, and especially desiring that in the present position of the Democratic party in regard to three of our Delegates, Messrs. Colquitt, Cooper and Black, they might have an opportunity of being heard before the people and judged of, after a full and free interchange of opinion, it was determined to offer them a public entertainment on the day above mentioned. The great concourse which had attended the Convention at Macon, and the accounts promulgated of their proceedings, together with the stories of the strange banners they bore, and the cry of change, change, change, which had been heard 'in connection with these unaccountable insignia, had awakened amongst the hard-handed, bread-earning Van Buren men of the country, a sense of the danger threatening the institutions under which the people of this happy land have flourished for more than half a century. They were aroused from their lethargy, and determined, that for once they would suspend their accustomed pursuits of industry, and meet with the talented men they had selected to represent them in Congress, and such others as might attend this great meeting, and there see, hear, and judge for themselves. It was ascertained that the accommodations which could be afforded by a small village like that at the Indian Springs, would not afford shelter for so large a multitude as would there assemble. The people therefore provided themselves with all the necessaries they would require. They carried with them tents and provisions, so that there was no danger of the want of shelter or of food. For many days before the 2d instant, the gathering of the people at the Springs might be seen. The extensive houses of 208 accommodation were soon filled to overflowing. But soon the baggage trains were seen arriving from all directions. Tents were seen arising on every convenient spot. On Monday, the crowd which had assembled became so great, that an impatience to hear discussed the topics which had given rise to the meeting, was manifested. About 10 o'clock, A.M., an assemblage of several hundred gentlemen, and forty or fifty ladies, was formed at the Springs. Here orations were delivered by Col. A.B. Powers, and Mr. O'Keif, of Bibb. The first of these gentlemen referred at length to the principal points on which the whole of the discussions were to turn; the second, gave an appeal of great eloquence, and stood forth the champion of that blood which has flown from the Green Isle of Erin, through thousands of mingling channels in our country. On Tuesday, the assemblage had become a multitude. The orations commenced in the piazza of Mr. Dillon's Hotel. Messrs. Steiner and Harris, of Alabama, held forth in able addresses, and fairly lit up the flame of intellectual developement [sic] which formed the business and the pleasure of the meeting during the succeeding three davs. In the evening of this day, Mr. Yancey of the same State, delivered a very able and eloquent address to a vast concourse of hearers. Two of these gentlemen, Messrs. Yancey and Harris, are native Georgians. They were thrice welcome amongst their old friends. Georgia has reason to be proud of such sons. They are yet very young, but shew to the best advantage the talents and spirit of the South. By this time night had come on, and the collections of persons in all directions were sending in petitions for orators. They were addressed at the Hotel; they were addressed at the Church; they were addressed at their encampments on each side of the creek; and almost on every hill for a great distance around the Suring. It is not in our power to state the number or names of the speakers. On Wednesday morning, the multitude had thickened and spread till the eye could no longer extend to its confines. The unevenness of the ground and the greatness of the number rendered it impossible to see all at any view. But they were present in hundreds and thousands. The citizens of Butts county were nearly all present. Monroe was represented by her six hundred; Henry by her four hundred; Jones by her two hundred; Bibb by her three hundred; Jasper by her three hundred; and Walton by her three hundred. These led the way in this glorious rivalry; but many were the citizens to be added to this list from counties far and near. Our newly peopled Cherokee counties were there by their hundreds, and hardly a county in the State was without its representative in this great assemblage. We were pleased to notice some of the best talent of our growing and important neighbor, the State of Alabama, mingling 209 with the crowd and contributing a full share of the intellectual fire which shone with such splendor throughout the whole proceeding. Every one will ask what number of men could have assembled on such an occasion. We were not unmindful of this question, and took some pains to satisfy ourselves. Tellers were stationed on the way of the procession which was formed. They enumerated six thousand and finding the disorder in the ranks too great to admit of this mode of numbering, they abandoned it in despair. They could not have enumerated much more than the half of the people who were on the ground. The whole number could not have been short of 10,000. Those who attended were principally Van Buren men, and there were very few boys. On Monday the Committee of Arrangements felt seriously apprehensive that their preparation for the entertainment for eight thousand persons would fall short of the wants of the multitude. They therefore enlarged their preparations to suit the exigency. Dinner was provided for almost any number. Ten thousand pounds of meats we understand, formed one item in the bill of fare; but the tables were sufficient only for the accommodation of four or five thousand at one time. The people therefore are in succession; all the tables have been repeatedly filled. The entertainment was spread on forty or fifty tables standing as radii to a common centre, in which there was erected a stand for such orators as might be called out by the people. They covered about two acres of ground. His Excellency the Governor was called on to act as President, and sixty-two Vice Presidents were appointed to assist him. Major Darden, of Butts, aided by ten or twelve assistants, performed the duties of Marshals of the day. Under their direction, several Revolutionary Soldiers, and about five hundred ladies, were placed in convenient situations at the festive board. In this truly Democratic style, and under this organization, this vast multitude partook with that order and decency which we trust will ever be the attributes of Democracy. Nor shall we fail to do them justice in another particular. The world never saw a more sober and orderly people gathered togethe~. Truly there was no lack of spirit to produce intoxication; but it was held in abhorrence by many, and not used in excess by one in a thousand. The use of it formed no part of the proceedings, and the abuse of it was hardly seen at all. This vast multitude had not gathered together to eat or to drink. They came to the feast of reason. They came to banquet on that which is food for the understanding, and they were not disappointed. Our Senator in Congress, the Hon. Alfred 210 Cuthbert, was first called on and delivered a splendid, animated and eloquent address which touched as if with holy fire the hearts of his hearers. Gov. Lumpkin was next called, but declined at that time from hoarseness, probably produced by having previously addressed the people. The people next demanded the voice of our talented representative, Walter T. Colquitt. At the mention of this name an inspiration seemed to spread through the multitude. The air was rent with their shouts and vociferations which were continued till he had taken his position on the stand. Their expectations were not disappointed. For three hours did this extraordinary speaker hold in order this great audience. They were not fatigued or impatient, for they felt that all he said was to the purpose, and that every subject he touched was elucidated. If he was great in the defence of his own position, he was terrible when provoked to deal out an assault on another. The Hon. Mark A. Cooper was next demanded by the audience. They had already listened to orations which had lasted for about four hours. Their anxiety to have their minds enlightened may be judged of when it is told that at the request of Mr. Cooper, they quietly took their seats and with the strictest attention, listened to his long and argumentative address. His arguments were unanswerable, and we have no doubt carried conviction to the minds of every one of his hearers. The close of this address brought a very late hour and the company adjourned. During the delivery of Mr. Colquitt's address, it became apparent that so vast a multitude could not hea~ even the loud and clear voice of this orator. A motion was therefore made that Col. Jones of Muscogee should repair to another stand and there address the people. This was accordingly done, and the thousands who followed him were equally delighted with his very able and eloquent address. This great entertainment was now drawing to a close. The people withdrew from the dinner tables, but it was soon seen that assemblages were forming in several places where they were addressed by orators who had not yet been heard. Speaking and hearing was the order of the day, and hearing and speaking the order of the night. It is impossible for us to do justice to the many efforts which were made, or the real eloquence which was displayed from time to time during the continuance of this meeting. We are by no means certain that we have even the names of all who delivered addresses to the people. We will mention such as came to our knowledge. The Hon. Alfred Cuthbert and Ex. Governor Lumpkin - our Senators in Congress; the Hon. Walter T. Colquitt and Mark a [sic] Cooper - two of our Representatives. The Hon. Edward J. Black, who was also expected, was unavoidably absent. To these we may lll add the names of Col. Seaborn Jones, Col. Henry G. Lamar, Maj. John H. Howard, Gen. H.A. Haralson, Gen. L.L. Griffin, Robert W. Pooler, Esq., John Millon, Esq., Gen. Thomas Glascock, Col. D.C. Campbell, John Lamar, Esq., Col. David J. Bailey, James H. Stark, Esq., Doctor Joel Branham, Mr. Irwin, Upton H. Heath, Esq., A.B. Powers, Esq., and Mr. O'Keif. To these we may add our talented visitors from Alabama, Messrs. Steiner, Harris and Yancey. We avoid the invidious task of entering into the particular merits of the orators whom we have named. We boldly challenge any party to produce a greater array of talent or character. To appreciate their merits they should be heard; and we are proud to say they were heard by thousands in whose hearts they have inspired a confidence not to be shaken - an energy not to be conquered. Such is the faint outline we give of the DINNER AT THE INDIAN SPRINGS. We feel that we have fallen far short of the realities of the exhibition. We cannot transmit the impression made on our minds by the vast ocean of teeming life and moving intelligence which we have for three days had before us. It cannot be realized by one who did not witness it. The hills were covered, the roads were filled, the houses crowded and the valleys thronged. Men, horses, oxen and mules, carriages of all descriptions and all without the exhibition of the angry passions. A crowd without fiction, a multitude subdued to order by their love of decorum, and all animated by a single purpose. It was a vast, a sublime spectacle, a boundless ocean of life, animated by the highest feeling of patriotic devotion - 'all were fired with one feeling -victory was on every tongue.' APPENDIX C Mineral Spring Hotels: 1820-1920 21J MINERAL SPRING HOTELS: 1820-1920 During the 100 years between 1820 and 1920, over 170 mineral springs were located in Georgia. Of these, only a few came to be considered as notable "watering places" or resorts, offering bed and board to their visitors. Following is a listing of those located in the course of this research on the Indian Springs Hotel. This list may not include every resort that existed during this century. It is drawn only from information found while researching the history of the Indian Springs Hotel, rather than through a direct effort to locate and describe the mineral resorts of Georgia. It is based on travel accounts, newspaper articles, advertisements, a 1913 Geological Survey, the Varner Collection and other private papers. Newspaper items are primarily from The Georgia .Hessenger of .Hacon, The .Hacon Telegraph, The Federal Union of .Hilledgeville, The Southern Recorder of .Hilledgeville, and The Savannah Georgian. Further research using other newspapers of the state, particularly from the late-19th Century, could yield additional entries. Such extensive research was not possible within the scope of this paper. However, since four newspapers have been searched extensively for the period 1820-1870, and since the Geological Survey adequately covers the 1870-1920 period, along with the other sources mentioned, this list is believed to include the 37 most widely-known springs with hotels. Only one of the ante-bellum hotels is known by this author to be standing, that being the Indian Springs Hotel. Few have survived from the late-19th and early-20th Century. The only ones from that period that this author is aware of are the Elder House at 214 Indian Springs, the Omaha Springs Hotel in Jefferson County and Rock Cas- tle at Indian Springs. 1. Adams Spring, Habersham County. Near Lake Demor~st. Hotel, date unknown. 2. Argon Springs, Taliaferro County. Hotel and cottages built mid-19th Century. Burned and -n~t rebuilt. 3. Beall Springs, Warren County. Eight miles southwest of Warrenton. Some improvements in the mid-19th Century. Hotel built just before 1900. Still standing in 1913. 4. Cascade Springs, Fulton County. Six miles southwest of Atlanta. Hotel, stone spring house and cottages. No longer standing. 5. Catoosa Springs, Catoosa County. Three-story hotel built ca. 1850. Dining room, cottages, billiards, bowling, bath houses: Hotel replaced late-19th Century. Burned by 1920. Fifty springs. 6. Chalybeate Springs, Meriwether County. Hotel built mid-19th Century. Operated until just after 1900. Baths, stable, dining room, cottages. Hotel known as Grant House burned ca. 1924. 7. Cohutta Springs, Murray County. Hotel built by 1834. 8. Cold Springs, Meriwether County. Two-story Victorian-style hotel built in 1894. 9. Duke Springs, Polk County. Twelve-room hotel, date unknown. 10. Franklin Springs, Franklin County. Two miles from Royston. Small hotel with cottages thought to have been built mid-19th Century. 11. Gordor Springs, Whitfield County. Twelve miles from Dalton. Hotel built by 1850. Burned ca. 1865. 12. Gower Springs, Hall County. Near Gainesville cty limits. Hotel, dates unknown. 13. Hillman Springs, Taliaferro County. Seven miles east of Crawfordville. Hotel ~uilt 1888 and known as Electric Mound Hotel. Dining room. Had springs as well as "rocks that shock." 14. Hellicon Springs, Clarke County. Four-m~les from Athens. Hotel built 1834. 15. Indian Springs, Butts County. This is the only known resort that offered more than one hotel. Bath houses were built on the Indian Springs Reserve and were used jointly by the hotels. Following are the most notable hotels there. 215 Indian Springs Hotel. Built ca. 1823. Operated until 1900. At its peak in the 1850s, it-included a two-story hotel, guest annex, ballroom, bar, stable, billiard house, dining room and stage service. Mcintosh House. Built 1846. Burned 1883. Located on south side of the Indian Springs Hotel ballroom. Two-story hotel with dining room, ballroom, bar, stable and stage service. Elder Hotel. Built 1851. Remodeled 1884. Burned 1897. Second Elder Hotel built 1903 and still in operation. First two structures included two-story hotel, ballroom, dining room, bar, cottages,.stable, stage service. Third structure is a three-story building with dining room. Mountain Spout Retreat. Built 1828. Two-story hotel, stable, garden, blacksmith, store, bar. Located one-half mile south of the spring. Believed to have fallen into disuse after 1831 and eventually destroyed. Rock Castle. Built ca. 1873. Located on the hill opposite the Indian Springs Hotel. May have been a boarding house or a private home. Still standing but in deteriorated condition. Calumet Hotel. Built in the early 1890s. Burned 1910. Hotel, dining room, ballroom. Wigwam Hotel. Built 1890. Burned August 21, 1921. Four-story frame Victorian structure with gas-lighting and baths. Ballroom, casino, dining room, billiards, bowling, bath houses, tennis and pool. Foy Hotel. Originally called Heard House. Built in the 1880s with 14 rooms. By 1896, known as Foy Hotel. Enlarged ca. 1900. Enlarged again in 1921 to include 55 rooms. Burned May of 1956. Two-story hotel with dining room and ballroom. Located south of the spring and across the road from the Indian Springs Hotel. Bryans House. Originally built as the private home of the Carter family in 1845. Two-story building. Sold in 1878 to Dr. Bryans and became hotel at that time. Dining room and 18 guest rooms. Also called Invalids Hotel and Sanitorium in the 1880s. 16. Lifsey Springs, Pike County. Six miles southwest of Zebulon near Pine Mountain. Forty-room hotel, two cement bathing pools and cottages. Burned 1908. 17. Lithia Springs, Douglas County. Also known as Salt Springs. Sweet Water Park Hotel built by 1892 and burned ca. 1900. Twenty miles west of Atlanta. 18. Lithia Springs, Haralson County. Near Tallapoosa. 130-room hotel built late-19th Century. Still standing in 1940 and used as a private residence. 216 19. Madison Springs, Madison County. Seven miles northwest of Danielsville. Hotel built ca. 1825. Two-story hotel with ballroom, dining room and 30 chambers. Cottages, billiards, bowling, ten-pins. Summer school and piano lessons offered. Fell into disrepair after 1865. 20. Mineral Springs Summer Resort, Walker County. Four miles north of Lafayette near Pigeon Mountain. Built 1913. No hotel. Offered club house, open-air sleeping rooms, dining hall, pool room, baths, tennis and bowling. Twenty-one springs. 21. Miona Springs, Macon County. Twelve miles north of Oglethorpe. Twenty-two-room hotel and cottages standing in 1908. Construction date not known. 22. Montpelier Springs, Monroe County. Sixteen miles west of Macon. Built before 1831. Hotel called Montpelier House. Dining room, baths, stables, tent spaces, carriage service to Macon. 23. New Holland Springs, Clarke County. Two miles from Athens. Hotel, dining room, cottages. Operated in the 1880s. 24. Oak Mountain Spring, Talbot County. Two and one-half miles northeast of White Oak. Small hotel and cottages. Date unknown. 25. Oconee Springs, Putnam County. Hotel, dining room and ballroom. Tent spaces. First hotel was log and was standing by 1859. Replaced in 1897 by Oconee House which burned in 1901. Replaced then by a twostory hotel which was torn down in World War II. 26. Oconee White Sulphur Springs, Hall County. Six miles each of Gainesville. Hotel built by 1849. Replaced 1885 with large hotel, dining room, bedrooms with baths, cottages, pavillon, billiards, dancing hall, tennis and bowling. 27. Omaha Springs, Jefferson County. Three-story frame hotel built ca. 1880. Approximately 15 miles northwest of Louisville. Still standing but used as a private residence. 28. Porter Springs, Lumpkin County. Eight miles north of Dahlonega near base of Cedar Mountain. Hotel and cottages built 1876 and still standing in 1940. 29. Rowland Springs, Cass County (now Bartow County). Hotel built ca. 1838 and still operating in 1851. Burned in the 1860s. 30. Roxborough Springs, Atlanta area. Hotel built ca. 1890 with dining room and ballroom. 31. Shamrock Springs, Telfair County. One and one-third miles northeast of McRae. Small hotel with cottages, bath, pool in 1913. 32. SJring Hill, Monroe County. Spring Hill Retreat built ca. 1830. 7wenty-two and one-half miles west of Macon on road to Thomaston. Two-story hotel with bar, dining room and cottages. 217 33. Thundering Springs, Upson County. Hotel and bath houses. Operated from ca. 1830 to ca. 1860. 34. Verner Springs, Gwinnett County. Two miles north of Duluth. Twentytwo-room hotel. Date unknown. 35. Warm Springs, Meriwether County. First hotel built by 1832 and still operating in 1851. Hotel, dining room, ballroom, bath houses, stage service. Burned 1865 and rebuilt ca. 1880. Later replaced by a modern hotel and sanitorium. 36. Watson Springs, Oglethorpe County. Boarding house and cottages standing in 1913. 37. White Sulphur Springs, Meriwether County. Thirty-five miles above Columbus. Hotel, dining room, ballroom, cottages, stables, stage service. Built by 1845. Closed 1865. Replaced by a modern hotel in 1905 with cottages and pavillon which burned in 1947. 218 BIBLIOGRAPHY BOOKS Amory, Cleveland. The Last Resorts. New York: Harper and Brothers, 1948. Boatright, Sherry L. The Mcintosh Inn and Its Place in Creek Indian History. Atlanta: Georgia Department of Natural Resources, 1975. Dillon-Camp Family Bible. Owned by Lucille Dillon Flemister, Griffin, Georgia. Dooly County Sesquicentennial Corporation. History f Dooly County. Dooly County Sesquicentennial Corporation, 1971. Edge, H. M. , comp. Souvenir History of Indian Spring. ! Complete History of the Discovery f this Famous Spring, With Valuable Information Concerning Its Medicinal Qualities. Indian Spring: The Echo, 1874, reprinted Jackson: The Progress - Argus, ca. 1920. Electric Health Resort, The. Richmond,Virginia: The Richmond Dispatch, 1891. Owned by Dr. A. Mel Lunceford, Crawfordville, Georgia. Georgia's Health Resort for 100 Years. The Legend f the Healing Water. An 1898 booklet advertising the Wigwam Hotel. Owned by Mr. James Cornell, Indian Springs, Georgia. Harley, Timothy. Southward Ho! Notes of~ Tour~ and Through the State of Georgia in the Winter 1885-86. London: Sampson, Low, Marston, Searle and Rivington, 1886. Hodge, Robert A., comp. Some Georgia Reported Deaths 1842-1848. Fredericksburg: Privately Printed, 1977. Hull, Augustus Longstreet. Annals of Athens, Georgia 1801-1901. Athens, Georgia: Banner Job Office, 1906. Hynde, Ernest C. Antebellum Athens and Clarke County. Athens, Georgia: University of Georgia Press, 1974. Jones, Charles H., ed. Appleton's Handbook of American Travel Southern Tour. New York: D. Appleton & Co., 1874. Ifuight, Lucian Lamar. Georgia's Landmarks, Memorials and Legends, Vol. II. Atlanta: Byrd Printing Company, 1914. COElp. Georgia's Official Register. Atlanta: Department of Archives and History, 1923. Lancaster, Jewell M. Jasper County Cemeteries Book. Monticello, Georgia: Private Printed, 1969. 219 Miller, Stephen F. The Bench and Bar of Georgia, Vol. II. Philadelphia: J.P. Lippincott and Co., 1858-.- -- -- McMichael, Lois, ed. History of Butts County. William Mcintosh Chapter Daughters of the American Revolution and Rosa P. Lane, compilers. Covington, Georgia: Cherokee Publishing Company, 1978. Myers, Robert Manson. The Children of Pride. New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 1972. Newsome, Elizabeth P., ed. Washington County, Georgia 1825 Tax Digest. Sandersville, Georgia: Privately Printed, 1968. Georgia Historical Markers. Valdosta: Bay Tree Grove Publishers, 1973. Sherwood, Adiel. Gazeteer of Georgia; Containing ~ Particular Description ~ the State; Its Resources, Counties, Towns, Villages, and Whatever is Usual in Statistical Works. Atlanta: J. Richards, 1860. Shuck, Lewis H. The Barnwell Baptist Association of South Carolina. Its Churches and Their Deceased Ministers, 1867. Starke, Aubrey Harrison. Sidney Lanier, ~ Biographical and Critical Study. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1933. Sulzby, James F., Jr. Historic Alabama Hotels and Resorts. Tuscaloosa: University of Alabama Press, 1960. Von Abele, Rudolph. Alexander H. Stephens, A Biography. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1946. Warren, Mary B. Marriages and Deaths in Georgia 1820-1830. Danielsville, Georgia: Heritage Papers, 1972. White, George. Historical Collections of Georgia. New York: Pudney and Russell, 1854. Statistics of the State of Georgia. Savannah: W. Thorne Hilliams, 1849. William Mcintosh Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution. Sketch of Indian Springs and the Varner-Hcintosh Memorial. Jackson: Progress-Argus Print, 1916. Works Progress Administration. Georgia: A Guide to Its Towns and Countryside. Athens: University of Georgia Press, 1940. Reprinted St. Clair Shores, Michigan: Somerset Publishers, 1973. NEWSPAPERS The Atlanta Constitution. Atlanta, Georgia. The Atlanta Journal. Atlanta, Georgia. 22 0 The Augusta Chronicle. Augusta, Georgia. The Christian Index. Atlanta, Georgia. The Empire State. Griffin, Georgia. The Federal Union. Milledgeville, Georgia. The Georgia Messenger. Macon, Georgia. The Georgia Telegraph. Macon, Georgia. The Jackson Progress-Argus. Jackson, Georgia. The Journal and Messenger. Macon, Georgia. The Macon Telegraph. Macon, Georgia. The Middle Georgia Argus. Jackson, Georgia. The Sandersonville Progress. Sandersonville, Georgia. The Savannah Georgian. Savannah, Georgia. The Southern Banner. Athens, Georgia. The Southern Recorder. Milledgeville, Georgia. The Telegraph and Messenger. Macon, Georgia. COUNTY RECORDS Bibb County, Georgia. Court of the Ordinary. Returns Book A 1823-1837. Court of the Ordinary. Will Book A. Butts County, Georgia. Court of the Ordinary. Marriages "White" 1826-1882. Court of the Ordinary. Wills and Returns 1845-1851. Superior Court. Deed Books 1825-1900. Clarke County, Georgia. Court of the Ordinary. Mixed Receipts and Annual Returns. Vol. H & J. Shelby County, Alabama. Court of Probate. t.Jill Book D 1841-1846. 221 STATE OF GEORGIA DOCUMENTS Department of Natural Resources, Parks and Historic Sites Division. Deed File on the Mcintosh Inn. Geological Survey of Georgia. A' Preliminary Report~~ Mineral Springs of Georgia, Bulletin No. 20. Atlanta: State Printing Office~ 1913. Secretary of State, Surveyor General Department. Grant Book ~' Butts Reserves. - - - - - - - - Secretary of State, Surveyor General Department. Plat Book 4E Indian Sprinis Reserve. Secretary of State, Surveyor General Department. 1832 Gold Lottery. PERIODICALS Brown, Constance. "But It's Always Hot-spring Time in the Rockies," Smithsonian, November, 1977, Vol. 8, No. 8. Georgia Genealogical Ha~azine, The. "Deaths from the Files of Old Georgia Newspapers," January 1968, Vol. 37. Georgia Pioneers, Vol. 7, 1970 and Vol. 8, 1971. Hankinson, Christine Park. "Indian Springs," The Georgia Review, Vol. I, No. 4, Winter, 1947. Masonic Journal, The. "Indian Springs," May, 1851, Vol. III (5). Newnum, Kenneth M. ed. "Photographs of Prints of the Virginia Springs," The Old Print Shop Portfolio, Vol. XXXVII, No. 2. Southern Architect, The. "Conjectural Drawing of the Wigwam Hotel," August, 1890~ Vol. I, N~lO. Woodward, Harry Evans. "They Called Them Watering Places," Virginia Cavalcade, Summer, 1963. INTERVIEWS Brittain, Leila. Eatonton, Georgia. Telephone interview with the author on February 23, 1978. Cornell, James. Personal interview with the author at the Elder Hotel, Indian Springs, June 10, 1977. 222 Davidson, Corneil Varner. Macon, Georgia. Telephone interview with the author, June 23, 1977. Flemister, Lucille Dillon. Personal interview with the author at Griffin, Georgia, November 30, 1977. McMichael, Lois. Personal interview with the author at Jackson, Georgia, March 31, 1978. Newsome, Jesse, Mr. and Mrs. Personal interview with the author at Sandersville, Georgia, October 28, 1977. Newton, Therese. Personal interview with the author at Madison, Georgia, October 19, 1977. Rountree, E.R., Mrs. Personal interview with the author at Darien, June, 1977. Sheftall, John M. Macon, Georgia. Telephone interview with the author, November, 1977. Varner, Earl. Personal interview with the author at Swainsboro, Georgia, June 15, 1977 and telephone interview on April 25, 1978. Watts, Becky Ann. Personal interview with the author at Thomaston, Georgia, August, 1977. White, Charles, Mr. and Mrs. Personal interview with the author at Thomaston, Georgia, November 30, 1977. MANUSCRIPT COLLECTIONS Census, Bureau of the, Population Schedules, 5th, 6th, 7th and 8th Censuses and including the Slave Census of the 7th Census, 1830-1860, Georgia. National Archives. Microfilm at Georgia Department of Archives and History, Atlanta, Georgia. Connally-Brown Collection, MSS. Georgia Department of Archives and History. Atlanta, Georgia. Travel Account of Joseph Grisham, May-June 1826. Dun, R.G. and Co., MSS. Baker Library, Harvard University. Boston, Massachusetts. Vol. 4, Georgia. Used by permission of Dun and Bradstreet, Inc. and the Baker Library. Fannin-Barnett Family Papers, MSS. Georgia Department of Archives and History, Atlanta, Georgia. Stokes letters 1868-1873 and letters of Joel C. Barnett to his wife, 1868, 1872 and 1873, Folder 15. Fluker, Issac, Family Bible. Georgia Department of Archives and History, Atlanta, Georgia, Microfilm. 223 Knight, Lucian Lamar, MSS. Georgia Department of Archives and History, Atlanta, Georgia. Scrapbooks, Vols. 2,4,10,16 and 33. Sanders, Cynthia Bird Varner, MSS. Georgia Department of Archives and History, Atlanta, Georgia. One diary and one ledger. State, Department of Archives and History, Atlanta, Georgia. Central Research card files on Leander A. Erwin and Israel Keith. State, Department of Natural Resources, Atlanta, Georgia. Historic Preservation Section Collection of Data on William Mcintosh, Creek Indian papers, Indian Springs, Moravians in Georgia and the Varner Family. Varner Collection, MSS. Georgia Historical Society, Savannah, Georgia. This collection includes: Varner-Rountree Family Papers, 1820-1934. 500 sheets, 20 volumes handwritten journals and ledgers, insurance policies and hotel memorabilia, 9 printed pamphlets, Varner genealogy. Varner-White Family Papers. 3 scrapbooks, 200 letters and miscellaneous newspapers and periodicals. The Department of Natural Resources is an Equal Opportunity Employer and employs without regard to Race, Creed, Color, Sex, Age or National Origin. 50% of the funds for this publication were provided by the federal government under the Historic Preservation Act of 1966 and 50% of the funds were provided by the State of Georgia.