EORGIA STATE BOARD 
OF ENTOMOLOGY 
 
CIRCULAR o. 10 
 
JANUARY, 1911. 
 
SPRAYI G TO CONTROL 
I SECT PESTS A D PLA T DISEASES 
 
PREPARED FOR DISTRIB TIO 0 EDUCATIO AL TRAI T OPERATED BY TATE COLLEGE OF AGRIClJLTURE, FEBRUARY, 1911 
 
BY 
E. L. WORSHAM, 
State Entomologist 
 
A. C. LEWIS, 
Asst. State Entomologist 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
In this circular only the most important points concerning insect problems and plant <Iiseases can be mentioned. Everyone interested in the growth of plants must recognize the necessity of spraying. The things to know are "how to spray," "when to spray," and "what insecticides or fungicides to use." It is just as necessary for us to spray as it is to vrepare the soil, cuI tivate, prune or fertilize. 
We can not make any definite rules for spraying. Some insects, such as caterpillars, scale insects and plant lice, can be fought after they appear, but there are others, such as codling moth, to which this does not apply. Each crop must be carefully watched for the insects which attack it. Find out what the insect or disease is; employ the most eltective spray. If you do not know the insect or disease, send it to the State Entomolo gist, Atlanta, Ga., or some one who can give you the information. For accounts of va rious insect pests, you should study bulletins on entomology issued by State Departments of Entomology, State Colleges, Experiment Stations, and U. S. Department of Agriculture. They will be glad to furnish you their bulletins free. Write them about the insect problems In wh"ich you are interested. Articles on insects in best horticultural papers will also help you. 
An insecticide is something that kills an Insect. Unless the insecticide is properly made, applied at the right time, and for the right purpose, you can not expect satisfactory results. Be sure to prepare your spray mixtures properly and spray thoroughly. Mistakes In this connection will render spraying worthless. 
There are two classes of insects which must be taken into consideration when you spray. These are biting and sucking insects. If the insect attacks the plant by biting, like the potato beetle, cabbage worm, and others, you must poison the food which it eats. The basis for nearly all internal poisons used for biting insects is some form of arsenic. If the insect sucks the plant, as the plant lies, scale insects, and others, you must aim at the insect instead of Its food. For these an insecticide must be used which has a penetrating, caustic or corroding quality. Kerosene emulsion is an example of such an insecticide. 
&pray Pumps and Nozzles. 
We can not recommend anyone best pump, or nozzle. The kind of outfit you will need will depend on the kind of work to be done, the kind of spray to be used and the size of plant to be sprayed. There are various pumps on the market, such as bucket, knapsack, barrel and power pumps. Each individual will have to determine which one be should use. Write to firms who handle spray machinery for their catalogs. The kind of nozzle will depend on the kind of spray to be used. Select a nozzle that will throw a fine spray and that can be taken apart and cleaned when necessary. For general use the Vermorel nozzle is the best that can be used. 
The advice given in this circular can not be more than suggestive. The State Entomologist will be glad to furnish fuller information to persons who are especially interested in this work. He will be glad to send bulletins and give references to literature on subjects in which you may be particularly interested. 
..~ I 
 
 INSECT PESTS. 
Apple Insects. 
AphlsGreen (on leaves). This Aphis works on the under si~e of the leaves, causing them to curl. Spray with tobacco decoction or 15 per cent. kerosene emulsion, as soon as insects appear and before leaves ,become curled. AphisWoolly. Treat aerial form same as Green Aphis. Root form, expose roots one to two feet from base depending upon the size of the tree, and apply in the spring after the growth starts 15% kerosene emulsion. Cover again with dirt. Codling Moth. Spray with Arsenical Bordeaux after blossoms have fallen and before calyx cup closes. Repeat, seven to ten days later. About seven or eight weeks later, spray again. San Jose scale. Spray in winter wben trees are' dormant, with home-made lime and sulphur or concentrated lime and sulphur, one gallon to ten of water. Tent Caterpillar. Burn out nests or spray with arsenicals. 
Peach Insects. 
Borer. About Aug. 1st, mound the base of the trees and wrap trunks in tough paper. In November remove mound, scrape base of tree, and apply a caustic wash. In spring before growth starts, carefully worm the trees. Shot Hole Borer. Keep dead limbs cut out, and remove all dead and diseased trees. If the beetles attack a health.v tree, whitewash the trunk and limbs. Trees seriously injured, cut back and whitewash or paint with a 12% emulsion of carbollneum avenarious, (obtained from C. J. Hoyt, Osborn Building, Cleveland, 0.) Curculio. This is the 'beetle that causes the peaches to be wormy. Spray first, with arsenate-oflead and lime as BOon as the calyces drop; second, three or four weeks later with lime and sulphur and arsenate of lead as recommended in Bulletin No. 32. San Jose scale. Same as on apple. 
Pear Insect 
Codling Moth. Same as on apple. San Jose Scale. Lime and sulphur wash during winter. 
Pecan Insects. 
Bud Worm. Spray early in the spring just .before the buds open, with lime and sulphur, an~ arsenate of lead. Tree Borer. To keep out, paint or cover all wounds with grafting wax. Cut the borers out or kUl by probing with a stiff wire. Another method is to Inject carbon bi-sulpblde in tbe bole and seal up with grafting wax. Tiwg Pruner. Pick up and burn in the fall and winter, tbe cut off twigs under the persimmon, hlcl(ory and pecan trees. Web Worm, and Tent Caterpillar. Burn tbe worms in the nests witb a kerosene torch, or spray with arsenate of lead. 
Fig Insects. 
Mealy Bug. Kerosene emulsion 15%, or wbale oil soap, when 'bugs appear. Repeat at intervals of five or six days if necessary. 
Grape Insects. 
Flea Beetle. Arsenate of lead in Bordeaux as buds open. Repeat when beetles appear, at intervals of ten or twelve days if necessary. Hand picking of the beetles Is also practiced. Rose Chafer. Arsenate of lead and lime may be used with good results when the Insects first appear. When numerous, hand picking or jarring must be resorted to. Leaf Hoppers. These small peculiar looking insects are difficult to control, but clean culture and spraying at the proper time wUl greatly reduce their number. Spray with whale 011 soap solution, one pound to ten gallons of water, or 10% kerosene emulsion. 
Blackberry, Dewberry and Raspberry Insects. 
Slug. Arsenate of lead when insects first appear. Repeat at intervals of four to flve days, if necessary. Scale Insecfs. Lime and sulphur wash In winter. 
 
 Strawberry Inlecta. 
L.eaf Roller. Arsenicals in Bordeaux when insects first appear. Repeat at intervals of six to eight days If necessary. Tarnished Plant Bug. Kerosene emulsion, 10% on young plants. Repeat before fruit ripens. Pyrethrum. when the fruit is ripening. 
 
Cabbage Insects. 
Cabbage Worm. Spray when plants are small with two pounds of arsenate of lead and lime to 60 gallons of water. Can be used .with safety up to within four weeks of picking time. When heads are nearly grown, dust with pyrethrum or hellebore. Cabbage L.ouse. Dip young plants before setting in 15% kerosene emulsion. Spray every seven days with kerosene emulsion, tobacco decoction, or whale 011 soap one pound to six gal Ions of water. Herlequln Cabbage Bug. This bug is difficult to control by spraying, as the kerosene emulsion will only kill the very young ones. Plant early a trap crop of mustard and when bugs become numerous, kill them by spraying the mustard with pure kerosene. Cabbage Snake or Hair Worm. The so-called cabbage snake or hair worm is thought by many to be very poisonous. We can state positively that the hair worm is not poisonous. This worm is a parasite on grasshoppers, caterpillars, and other soft insects. 
Potato Insects. 
Colorado Potato Beetle. Dust the plants when the first beetles are seen with one pound of Paris green to ten pounds of cheap flour or air-slacked lime. A better method Is to spray with arsenate of lead. Flea Beetle. Spray when beetles first appear with arsenate of lead and Bordeaux. Repeat at intervals of flve to seven days if necessary. 
 
Tomato Insects. 
 
Tomato Fruit Worm. Spray in fore part of season with arsenate of lead. This can be used until two weeks before picking begins, then hand pick and dust with pyrethrum. 
 
Cantaloupe, Melon' and Squash Insects. 
 
II 
 
Striped Cucumber Beetle. These small black-striped and spotted beetles are very 
injurious to young cucumber and cantaloupe vines. Are best controlled by combinmg several methods. Plant plenty of seed, and keep young vines covered with a screen of wire or light cheese cloth. Spray with arsenate of lead and Bordeaux. Repellants, such as land plaster saturated with turpentine, are useful if applied in time and frequent enough to keep the insects away. Melon Aphis. Spray when the insects first appear and before the leaves become curled, with 15% kerosene emulsion. A more effective method is fumigating the plants with tobacco or nicotine preparations. The Pickle 
Worm. This worm which eats into cantaloupes and cucumbers is very destructive and hard to successfully control. Plant catch crops of squash every two weeks until two or three plantings are made. Go over the patch every few days and kill the worms found in the blooms. Trap lights may also be used to catch the moths. Sprays can not be used as the young melons are very tender. The Squash Vine Borer. Early in June 
examine the vines and carefully cut out any worms that are found. When the vines are running cover up several joints with soil so new roots can be formed beyond the Injury. Burn the vines soon as the crop is gathered and plow in the fall. Squash Stink Bugs. Difficult to control ,by spraying. Trap the adults under boards. and hand pick. Destroy the eggs found on the under sides of the leaves every few days. 
 
Onion Insects. 
Onion Maggot. Onions are frequently attacked by a small white maggot. For this maggot practice rotation of crops and fall plowing. At the first appearance of the maggots treat the onions with carbolic acid emulsion and repeat every seven or ten days until the first of May. Onin Thrips. Small thrips frequently attack onions; they suck the leaves and this causes the tops to turn yellow and die. At first appearance of the insects spray with 10% kerosene emulsion, or whale oil soap, one pound to four gallons of water. Repeat in eight or ten days if necessary. 
 
Tobacco Insects. 
Tobacco Horn Worm. This large green worm, with a horn at the posterior end, is quite common in the tobacco fields of Georgia. Hand picking is a sure and safe method. 
4 
 
 -- 
 
For a spray use one pound of Paris green to one hundred and sixty gallons of water. Can be applied two or three times without danger to the users of tobacco. Bud worms. 
These worms eat out the youn~ buds. Sprinkle the buds with one-half teaspoonful of Paris green to one quart of corn meal. A good sprinkler can be made out of a tomato can. 
 
INSECTS OF FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
Rose Scale. The different scale insects on roses may be controlled by spraying in the winter witll lime-sulphur-wash. or in the summer with whale oil soap solution, one pound, to two gallons of water. Scale insects on crotons, cycads and palms are best controlled with the whale oil soap solution. Scale insects on ferns should be treated with lemon oil, or fir-tree oil, one part to twenty parts of water. Aphis. On roses and other fiowering 
plants may be controlled with the whale oil soap solution. It whale oil soap is not at hand, use Ivory soap, four ounces to one gallon of water. Thrips. These tiny insects work in 
the fiower buds of roses and carnations, sometimes greatly damaging them. Treat with 
tobacco decoction or fumigate with potassium-cyanide. Mealy Bugs on Coleus, and White Fly on oranges, etc. Treat with whale 011 soap solution or tobacco decoction. 
Rose Chafer. For this large beetle, hand picking is best when insects are numerous. When beetles first appear, spray with arsenate of lead. 
 
Corn Insects. 
Corn Bill Bugs. This large brownish black snout beetle injures corn soon after it is up, by eating into the stalk at or near the ground. Practice rotation of crops, plant late, and avoid planting corn on low swampy bottoms. It is advisable to plow in the winter and again in the spring before planting. On infested fields the corn stalks should be burned in the fall before plowing the land. Large Corn Stalk Borer. This worm bores into the stalk near the ground and up the pithy center, thus weakening it and causing it to fall over. Remedies, the same as for the corn bill bug. Corn Weevil. Place again in tight bin or box and fumigate with carbon-bi-sulphide, one pint to each one hundred bushels of grain. Expose twelve to twenty-four hours. Oaution, fumes are very explosive, keep fire away. Corn Root Louse. Same remedies as when on cotton. 
 
Wheat Insects. 
Hessian Fly. The larva of this fly works in the stem of the wheat at or near the ground, causing the wheat to fall over before it ripens. Best controlled by plowing up early in the fall all infested volunteer wheat and sowing main crop late, October 20th to October 30th. 
Cotton Insects. 
Cotton Boll Worm. This is the large green to dark brown worm, that eats into the cotton bolls throughout the summer. The larva! feed on various other crops, such as, corn, tomato, okra, tobacco, etc. Best Controlled by trap crops of corn and poisoning. For the trap crop plant early corn in the cotton field about May 15th and June 1st. When the corn becomes badly infested cut and feed before the worms escape. When the first \\ orms appear, dust with one pound of Paris green to four pounds of air slacked lime, applying so as to use two pounds of Paris green to the acre. Fall plowing will destroy many of the pupae in the ground. 
 
The New Cotton Beetle. 
 
This small brown beetle feeds on the leaves, blooms, and young buds of the cotton stalk. They appear about the last of June or the first of July. Generally occur in spots on low land near swampil or creeks. As soon as the beetles appear dust with Paris green 
 
. 
 
and lime dust, as for the boll worm. The Cotton Red Spider. This ii~l;) yellowish red 
 
mite is quite common on cotton in Georgia, and frequently does considerable damage. 
 
Destroy all green weeds in and around the cotton field, in the fall, this wUl tend to 
 
reduce their numbers the next season. Watch the cotton closely and at the first appear- 
 
ance of the mites spray the cotton with lime and sulphur. Make this as follows: Take 
 
five pounds of lime and five pounds of sulphur and mix in ten gallons of water, boil for 
 
thirty minutes and dilute to one hundred gallons. Or the plants may be sprayed with a 
 
2% solution of scaleside, concentrated lime and sulphur, or any strong soap solution. 
 
6 
 
 Tho Mexican Cotton Boll Weevil. 
The dreaded enemy of cotton is not in Georgia yet, but is coming at the rate of 50 to 75 miles a year. In all probability it will reach Georgia in 1912. As a detailed description would occupy too much space in this circular, we will only mention it in a brief way. The cut, Fig. 1 shows the adult, pupa, and larva of the boll weevil. From this a fair idea of the appearance of the adult weevil may be gained. The adult weevil lays its eggs in the young squares which causes them to fiare open and drop off in a few days. Later in the season the bolls are attacked. Best controlled by certain cultural ruethods, such as, early planting of an early cotton, high fertilization, intensive cultivation, and the early fall destruction of the cotton stalks, by burning. For full info1'::nation on this insect, write to the State Entomologist for bulletin on the Mexican Cotton Boll Weevil. 
c 
FiO". 1. Mexican Cotton Boll Weevil (Anthonomus grandis) a, b, adults; c, larva; d, pupa (Hunter, U. S. Bur. Ent.) Small beetle natural size. 
PLANT DISEASES AND THEIR CONTROL, 
Apple Diseases. 
Apple Scab. This fungus attacks the leaves and also the apple, causing round scaboy spots upon the latter. Spray with Bordeaux, (3-4-50.) First. Just after the blossoms fall. Second. When the fruit is the size of peas. Third. About three weeks later. Bitter Rot. This fungus attacks the twigs and apples. Thls disease may be well controlled by four sprayings with Bordeaux, applying the first spray about forty days after the fruit sets and the others every two weeks. Leaf Blight. In spraying for scab this will be controlled. Cedar Apple Rust. Cut down all cedar trees near the orchard. Spray with self-boiled lime and sulphur, or prepared lime-sulphur two gallons to fifty gallons of water. Three or four sprayings may be necessary. Twig Blight. Remedy same as pear blight. 
Pear Diseases. 
Pear Blight. This is a bacterial disease that can not be controlled by spraying. When the trees are dormant cut out all diseased limbs. Look carefUlly for live or hold-over blight on the large limbs. Just after the buds swell, but before they open, go over again to see if you left any the first time. Use a disinfectant on the tools and cuts made on the tree. To make this, dissolve one corrosive sublimate tablet in one pint of water. 
Peach Diseases. 
Brown Rot. This disease can be controlled by sprllying two or three times, after the fruit sets, with the selfboiled lime-sulphur mixture. Ma.ke first application as soon as the shucks are all shed. Second. About three weeks later. Third. About four weeks before ripening period begins. For complete report on this disease, write to State Entomologist 
6 
 
 for Bulletin No. 32. Peach Leaf Curl. Spray once in the winter or spring before buds 
swell, with lime-sulphur solution or Bordeaux. Peach Rosette. Remove and burn all diseased trees. 
 
Pecan Diseases. 
 
Pecan Scab. This is a fungus <l.isease which attacks the tender twigs, leaves and nuts 
 
of the pecan. Spray with standard Bordeaux before the buds open. Second. After fruit 
 
sets. Third. About four weeks later. A fourth application may be necessary. After the 
 
fruit sets use the 3-6-50 Bordeaux. It is important that all tbe nuts be covered at thd 
 
second spraying. Rosette. No known remedy. Cut out diseased trees. 
 
 
 
Fig Diseases. 
Mildew. Spray before buds open and after fruit sets with Bordeaux. 
Grape Diseases. 
Black Rot. This is the most common disease of grapes in the State. It attacks the leaves, stem and fruit. On the fruit when about half grown brown or blackish spots appear which spread and affect the whole berry causing it to shrivel and drY up. Ripe Rot. ThIs dIsease Is much like black rot, but as the name indicates, usually attacks the fruit when about mature. For these diseases spray three or four times with Bordeaux mixture, and twice with the ammoniacal solution of copper carbonate. This will not <l.Iscolor the fruit llke the Brodeaux and so can be used up to within a few days of picking time. Downy Mildew. This fungus attacks the leaves, stems, and young fruit. Treatment same as for black rot. All diseased leaves, stems and fruit should be destroyed, so as to reduce the sources of infection for the next season. 
 
Blackberry, Dewberry and Raspberry Diseases. 
Orange Rust. Attacks blackberry and raspberry, making orange colored spots on the stems and leaves. Cannot be controlled by spraying. Dig out and destroy infested plants. Anthracnose. Attacks the young stems, causing gray scab like spots on tne canes. Remove diseased canes and spray the patch with Bordeaux when the new canes are about six inches high. Mildew. Spray every ten days during the growing season with potassium sulphide. 
 
Strawberry Diseases. 
Leaf spot. This is a very common disease of strawberries. The spots which appear upon the leaves are at first purple and later gray. Remove diseased leaves from plants before setting them out. Spray three or four times during the summer with Bordeaux. After fruit is gathered, rake up and burn the leaves. 
 
Cabbage Diseases. 
 
Black Rot. This bacterial disease attacks the leaf, stalks and head. The head is 
 
stunted, or it may rot; the center of the stalk turns black. Practice rotation of crops, 
 
}(eep down cabbage insects. Avoid the use of stable manures tbat may contain cabbage 
 
refuse. Avoid setting out diseased plants. To do this, soak seed fifteen minutes in a solution made by dissolving one corrosive sublimate tablet In a pint of water, and raise 
 
 
 
the cabbage plants in soil that is free from the disease. 
 
Potato Diseases. 
Blight, Early and Late. Both these diseases attack the vines, and when severe, the late blight may cause the potatoes to rot in the ground or after they are dug. Spray with Bordeaux, beginning wben the plants are about six inches hIgh, and spray every ten or fourteen days until three or five applications have been made. Scab. Thi sfungus disease causes the potatoes to become scabby. May be carried over from year to year In the so11 or on the potatoes. Plant treated seed in land free from the dIsease. Treat the seed with the following solution: One half pint of commercial formalin in fifteen gallons of water. Mix well and soak uncut tubers two hours In this solution. 
7 
 
 Tomato Diseases. 
Fungus Wilt. This fungus disease causes the plants to wilt and die. Can not be cured by ordinary spraying. Treat the stems and roots with ammoniacal solution of copper carbonate, applying one quart to each plant. F'ractice rotation of crops. Bacterial Wilt. This works much in the same manner as the fungus wilt mentioned above. Can not be controlled by spraying. Practice rotation of crops and keep down Insects. Heavy applications of lime, 1000 pounds per acre seems to reduce the disease, somewhat. 
Cantaloupe, Cucumber and Melon Diseases. 
Leaf Blight. This is a common and sometimes a destructive disease of cantaloupes. It causes the leaves to shrivel up and die. May be prevented in a large measure by spraying with Bordeaux (3-6-50), every ten days until three or four applications have been made. Best prevented by high fertilization, good and late cultivation, with a top dressing of nitrate of soda. Downy Mildew. ot well controlled by spraying. Practice rotation of crops. Watermelon Wilt. This is a fungus disease that can not be controlled by spraying. Plant a resistant strain. For seed write Prof. W. A. Orton, Bur. Plant Industry, Washington, D. C. 
Onion Diseases. 
Mildew or Blight. This fungus disease attacks only the leaves. May be prevented by spraying with Bordeaux every ten <lays until onions are about mature. If onions are grown on the same land only once In three years, this dIsease will not be likely to cause much damage. Smut. This fungus rllsease attacks the leaves and bulbs. May be prevented by growing the seedlings in soil free from the disease and transplanting them. Equal parts of sulphur and lime drilled In with the seed at the rate of 150 pounds per acre, will reduce the per cent. of infestation. Diseased land should not be sown In onions for four or five years. 
DISEASES OF FLOWERING PLANTS. 
Downy Mildew. .'..ttacks roses and other flowering plants. This disease causes the leaves to bp,:ome covered with a white fungus growth. Dust with flower of sulphur and spray with potassium sulphide, three o;;nces to twelve gallons of water. Spray in winter when dormant with the lime-sulphur solution. Leaf Spot. This fungus disease causes brown to brownish red spots on the leaves of roses. Can be prevented by spraying early in the spring with Bordeaux mixture. Rust and Leaf Blight. These diseases are quite common on chrysanthemums. Spray in spring before diseases appear with Bordeaux. When ttE' flower buds begin to show, use the ammoniacal solution of copper carbonate ot' formaldeh!de 1 to 400 so as not to stain the leaves and flowers. Pick up lI.nd bur~ all dlsealled If!9V flS. 
COTTON DISEASES. 
Cotton Wi It. This fungus disease of cotton can not be controlled by the application of fungicides, or by the application of potash to the soil. Rotation of crops will reduce the severity of the disease. In the rotation it is important to plant crops that will not upport the nematode worms, or the fungu. The plants that may be used in the rotation are: Iron cowpea, corn, wheat, oats, peanut and velvet bean. After these crops if a resistant strain of cotton Is planted only a small per cent. of the cotton will die. The State Board of Entomology, Atlanta, Ga., now has a quantity of resistant cotton seed and some of the Iron cow peas to <listribute to farmers who have this disease to contend with. Parties who desire samples of these seeds should apply at once to the State Entomologist, Atlanta, Ga. The seed are free, but the party securing the seed will be expected to pay the freight. Cotton Anthracnose or Boll Rot. This fungus disease causes the bolls to rot. 0 variety is free from this disease. Some varieties are more subject to this disease than others, such as, Cook, Floradora, and Russell. Carefully examine the different varieties of cotton you have planted, and save your seed from the one that is the most resistant to the disease. Give the cotton plenty of space so as to let In sunlight and air. Cotton Rusts. The diseases commonly called "rust" are due to physiological causes, such as, poor mef'hanical conditions of the soil, and lack of some element, usually potash. Practice rotation of crops, and if land is detlclent In nitrogen, grow for a year or two the Iron cow pea or peanut. Applying the following fertilizer to land subject to rust: 
8 
 
 Kainit (or Muriate of Potash 50 Ibs.) 
 
200 Ibs. 
 
Cotton Seed MeaL ................................... 120 Ibs. 
 
Acid Phosphate ............................................. 240 Ibs 
 
This formula represents the amount used per acre. 
 
Oat Smut. 
The loose smut of oats, which Is so common In Georgia, is very similar to the loose smut of wheat. When the grain is In the dough the affected heads can, as a rule, be easily dlstin~ished by their black sooty appearance. This smut causes a good deal of damage to the oat crop In Georgia nearly every year. Since it is so easy to control there is no excuse for planting untreated seed and running the risk of having from 5% to 25% of the oats destroyed by the smut. The oats before planting should be treated by one of the following methods: 
 
Formalin Treatment. 
For Loose smut of oats and stinking smut of wheat. 
Take one quart of the commercial Formaldehyde (40%) to 60 gallons of. water. Place in a barrel and soak the seed in this solution for ten minutes. The seed should be put in a gunny sack (croker sack) and suspended in the barrel. Then it should be put In a heap, covered up with a cloth and left for two or three hours. If the seed is to be planted with a drill it w1ll be necessary to spread out and dry thoroughly, other",18e it can be sowed at once. 
Or, if more convenient, the seed may be put in heaps on a tight floor and sprinkled thoroughly as it is shoveled back and forth so as to wet every grain. Cover the pile with sacks or oilcloth, leave for two or three hours and then spread out to dry. This Is the plan of treatment tollowed by most ot the farmers who treat their seed. 
The Formaldehyde is a poison, 'but the dilute mixtur~ will not injure scratches or cuts on the ~ands, consequently there is no danger in handl1ng the Formaldehyde mixture. 
 
Hot 'Water Treatment. 
For Loose smut of oats and stinkin'g smut of wheat. 
Provide two large vessels .... )ldlng 20 gailons or more. Halt barrels will do very well. Mark these No.1 and No.2. No.1 should be filled with warm water between 1100 and 120" F. No.2, with hot water at 1320 F. to 1330 F. Have a kettle of boiling water handy and also some cold water, so either may be added as required to keep the temperature In the two vessels at the proper point. Place the sesds to be treated In a loose gunny sack, taking one half to a bushel at a eme. First immerse in the vessel ot warm water, plunging up and down with a rotary movement for one to two minutes. Then plunge the sack of seed into the vessel of hot water. Soon after its immersion the sack should be lifted up out of the water and allowed to drain for a tew seconds, then plunge and rotate for ten minutes. While the seed is being treated it is very important that the temperature of the water be kept as uniform as possible. Never allow the water to tall below 1320 F., nor above 1350 F. If the water should rise to 1350 F., reduce the time of treatment to five minutes. It is best to have one person to look after the water and see that the proper temperature is maintained. One or two other men can handle the grain to be treated. 
 
 
 
Hot Water Treatment 
 
For loose smut of wheat. 
 
In treating wheat for loose smut it is necessary to soak the wheat tor tour hours In cold water, then sack and let stand tor tour hours more and treat as above, but Immerse in the hot water at 1320 F. for five minutes. As about one third of the seed treated 
In this way will not grow, use one halt more when planting. Or better still, test the germinating qual1t1es ot the treated seed, and plant accordingly. 
 
9 
 
 INSECTICIDES. 
 
 Arsonate of Lead. 
This valuable Insecticide can be made at home or bought from different companies. Some of the best brands are made by the Thomas Chemical Co., Baltimore, Md.; Vreeland Chemical Co., New York; Graselli Uhemical Co., Birmingham, Ala.; SherwinWilliams Co., Savannah, Ga. 
Arsenate of lead contains a low per cent. of arsenic, hence more pounds must be used in a given amount of water than of Parts green. Arsenate of lead has, however, several advantages over Paris green; it adheres better and can be used on tender plants with but little danger of burning the foliage. It should be first mixed with a small amount of water and then diluted to the required amount. On peach trees, etc., use 2 lbs. arsenate of lead and 3 lbs. of lime to 50 gallons of water. 
 
II. Paris Green. 
 
Paris green 
 
1 lb. 
 
Lime (fresh unslacked) 
 
2 lbs. 
 
Water 
 
, 
 
200 to 250 gallons. 
 
The above formula is the one generally used, but it should be varied according to 
 
the kind of plants to be sprayed. 
 
For spraying potatoes use 1 lb. to 100 gallons of water; for apples use 1 lb. to 125 
 
gallons of water; for peaches use 1 lb. to 200 gallons of water, always adding two or 
 
tbree pounds of lime. 
 
To prepare: Mix the Paris green into a paste, then add two or three gallons of 
 
water. Slack the lime in a few gallons of water and add the Paris green mixture; then 
 
dilute to the required amount. 
 
. 
 
By combining the Paris green with the Bordeaux mixture a good insecticide and 
 
fungicide is formed, and the value of neither is lessened. 
 
III. Paris Green. (In Dry Form). 
When one has no spray pump and but a small garden to treat, the Paris green may be used dry by mixing with 10 to 15 parts of airslacked lime. Can be applied with a LJow gun or dusted through a tIour sack. 
 
IV. Lime and Sulphur Wash. 
 
Winter Spray for Scale. 
 
Lime Sulphur Water (to make) 
 
20 lbs. 16 lbs. 50 gallons. 
 
To prepare, proceed as follows: Mix the sulphur into a past2 with a small amount of hot water, then add 15 or 20 gallons of hot water. Stir until the sulphur is well mixed and then add the lime. Boil vigorously for 46 minutes. To secure the dirty greenish-yellow color, which the solution will have when properly boiled, may take longer or less time, depending on how it is cooked. Many now use steam in cooking this 
solution, which is by far the best way. When boiled suIDciently dIlute with water to flO gallons, and use while warm. Use only on dormant trees. 
 
V. Kerosene Emulsion. 
 
 
 
Stock Solution. 
 
Hard soap (soft soap, 1 qt.) Kerosene Water 
 
lh lb. 1 gal. 2 gals. 
 
In one gallon of hot water dissolve the soap; remove from the tIre and add the kerosene. Stir rapidly for ten minutes, or better, pump back into itself with the nozzle removed from the hose. The emulsion will be a creamy mass, and when properly made will readily mix with water. The stock solution wlll stand for several weeks without the oil separating, but when diluted should be used at once. Do not use the diluted mixture 
 
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 If it is allowed to stand over night. Better "'to throw it away than to kill your trees. Great care should be exercised in making the stock solution, and in spraying, the solution should not be put on until it is running down the trunk in streams, or it may injure the trees. 
This contact insecticide is now mainly used for plant lice and other soft bodied insects. For plant lice on cabbage, etc., use the 10% or 15% solution; on dormant trees the 20% solution can be used without fear of injury. It is best to apply the spray on sunshiny days when the trees are dry, as then it will not be so likely to injp.re the foliage. 
For reference the following .table is given: 
For a 5% emulsion add 37 gallons water to stock solution. For a 10% emulsion add 17 gallons water to stock solution. For a 15% emulsion add 10% gallons water to stock solution. For a 20% emulsion add 7 gallons water to stock solution. 
 
VI. Kerosene-MilkEmulsion. 
 
Kerosene will emulsify with milk, and where hard water is used or a small quantity- 
 
desired, it may be used instead of the soap solution. 
 
Milk (sour) ..........................................1 gal. 
 
Kerosene 
 
"_ 
 
2 gals. 
 
(Prepare and dilute as the other.) 
 
VII. Whale Oil Soap. 
Whale oil soap, naphtha soap, "Take-a-nap," tar soap, and others of this nature aremainly used for plant lice and scale insects on palms and other hot house plants. 
For the green apple aphis on nursery trees use 1 lb. whale oil soap to three gallons of water. For lice on palms, etc., use 1 lb. to 5 gallons of water. 
VIII. Miscible Oils. 
There are now manufactured and on the market a number of miscible oils, such as "Target Brand Scale Destroyer" and "Scaleside." These are to be used mainly against the San Jose Scale; by using one part to 12 or 15 parts of water. These are valuable where one has only a few trees to treat. For a report upon these send to the' State Board of Entomology ~or Circular No.8 or Bulletin No. 31. 
 
IX. Tobacco. (As a Liquid Spray). 
 
Tobacco Stems Water 
 
  
 
3 lbs. 5 gallons. 
 
Boll for two or three hours and use without diluting, only adding enough water to make up for the evaporation. This is valuable for plant lice on tender plants, as it does not burn the foliage. Tobacco dust is used in green houses for plant lice, and is sometimes put around young apple trees to keep down the woolly aphis. There are a number of tobacco preparations on the market, such as Punk, that are valuable for killing lice on small plants by fumigating. They are also used in fumigating green- 
houses. Black Leaf is a concentrated tobacco solution and is valuable for use on soft bodied insects. 
 
X. Pyrethrum and Hellebore. 
Pyrethrum, also known as Persian Insect Powder, and Hellebore are used instead of Paris green for dusting on cabbage, etc., that are soon to be eaten. These powders are generally used dry and dusted on, but may be used as a liquid spray. For a liquid spray use 1 oz. in three gallons of water. 
It must be remembered that the poison in these powders is a volatile oil which Evaporates very rapidly when they are exposed to the air. Hence it is important to keep these powders in air tight cans or boxes. Some druggists and grocers keep these powders in open barrels or boxes. Such powder soon loses its strength, and the poorresults so often secured from these powders is in many cases due to this fact. 
 
11 
 
 XI. Poison'ed Bran-Mash. 
 
Paris green Bran Molasses or sugar water 
 
1 lb. 40 lbs. 
2 qts. 
 
Water enough to make a dough. 
 
Tbi poisoned Bran-Marsh is mostly used for cut-worms and grasshoppers. 
 
XII. Carbon Bi-Sulphlde. 
Carbon-bi-sulphide is a clear, colorless liquid with.a very disagreeable odor. The fumes are highly explosive, so the llquid must not be opened around a fire. Used to kill weevils in grain, etc. Use one pint to each one hundred bushels of grain. 
 
FUMIGATING. 
Tobacco Fumigation. 
Plant lice may be killed by fumigating with some form of tobacco, such as the stems and leaves or tobacco punk. Violets must not be fumigated with tobacco as the fumes injure the leaves. 
The tobacco leaves and stems should be placed in a shallow dish and burned slowly. Directions for burning the punk and the amount to use are given on the packages. When the concentrated tobacco extracts are used as fumigants they are. usually diluted with water and vaporized over an oil stove, or by throwing hot irons into the pans. 
 
Potassium Cyanide Fumigation. 
Fumigating with potassium cyanide is an effective remedy against the white fly, mealy bugs, thrips and aphids. It can also be used against scale insects when the Infested plants will stand enough of the gas. It is also one of the most effective means of ridding the greenhouse of rats and mice. 
In fumigating with potassium cyanide it must be remembered that all plants can not stand the same amount of gas. So if there are a number of different kinds of plants in a greenhouse and it is desired to fumigate them all at once, the gas must not be used stronger than the tenderest ones will stand. 
The amount of gas a certain plant can stand without injury can only be determined by trial. 
 
Formula. 
 
Potassium cyanide Sulphuric acid (commercial) Water 
 
1 oz. 2 ozs. 4 ozs. 
 
To fumigate proceed as follows: Having determined by measurement the number of cubic feet in the box or house. measure out the required amount of water and place in an earthen vessel. Next slowly pour into the water the required amount of sulphuric acid; then add the proper amount 
of potassium cyanide. The potassium cyanide should be previously weighed out and put in paper sacks, each 
sack containing one charge. Drop the sack in containing the cyanide and quickly close the door. The time of exposure will vary from 30 minutes to one night. For nursery stock, such as June budded peach. expose 40 minutes. 
In fumigating with potassium cyanide it must be remembered that the potassium cyanide and the fumes are deadly pojson. 
 
FUNGICIDES. 
 
). Bordeaux Mixture. 
 
This is the most important fungicide we have for general use. 
 
Copper Sulphate (Bluestone) 
 
f) Ibs. 
 
Lime (fresh unslacked) 
 
6 Ibs. 
 
Water 
 
50 gals. 
 
The above is the formula for Standard Bordeaux Mixture, which should only be used 
 
on dormant trees. 
 
 "V' ~-:.:r::;'  _ 
 
... 
 
Direction., 
To prepare the Bordeaux, proceed as follows: Place the copper sulphate In a gunny sack and suspend in a barrel conta1niJlg 25 gallons of water. In another barrel slack the lime and add enough water to make 25 gallons. Now take a third barrel, or the spray barrel, and pour the two solutions in at the same time, letting them strike each other as they enter the funnel. Have the funnel provided with a good strainer so as to remove any particles that might clog the spray nozzles. 
The Bordeaux Mixture should be used as soon as prepared, and any left standing over night should not be used. 
Stock solution of bluestone and of lime may be prepared and kept for months if not diluted. If one has much spraying to do this will be advisable. 
To make the stock solution of bluestone dissolve 50 lbs. of copper sulphate in 25 gallons of water. To make' the stock solution of lime, slack 50 lbs. of lime and add enough water to make 25 gallons. 
To make standard Bordeaux take 2lh gallons of the copper sulphate solution and pour into a barrel containing 22lh gallons of water. Take 3 gallons of the lime solution and pour into a barrel containing 22 gallons of water. Then pour at the same time, the two solutions into a tank or spray barrel. 
When the formula "5-6-50" or "3-9-50" is used in referring to a certain strength of Bordeaux, it must be understood that it represents 5 lbs. of copper sulphate, 6 lbs. of lime to 50 gallons of water, etc. 
It must be remembered that the foliage of many trees and plants are easily injured by too strong applications of Bordeaux. For summer spraying on such trees as peach and plum, and plants like the potato and tomato, use 3 lbs. of bluestone, 9 lbs. of lime to 50 gallons of water. Under the different diseases, in each case, is e1ven the strength of Bordeaux to use. 
 
II. Bordeaux and Poisons. 
 
It frequently happens that a poison can be combined with an insecticide to a great 
 
advantage. Thus, if one desires to combat the codling moth and control the leaf blight, 
 
one spraying wlll do for both. For this and other similar cases the following is recom- 
 
mended: 
 
Arsenate of lead (paste) 
 
2 Ibs. 
 
Copper sulphate 
 
3 Ibs. 
 
Lime 
 
6 lbs. 
 
Water 
 
50 gals. 
 
III. Copper Su Iphate. 
Dissolve 3 lbs. of copper sulphate in a small amount of hot water and dilute to 50 gallons. This may sometimes be used as a spray, but is not so effective as the Borcleaux Mixture. Must only be used on dormant trees. It is frequently used in greenhouses to spray the benches and the general interior, to kill the bench fungi. 
 
IV. Ammoniacal Solution of Copper Carbonate. 
 
Copper carbonate Ammonia Water 
 
5 ozs. 3 pts. 50 gals. 
 
To prepare: Put the ammonia in 8 quarts of water. Dissolve the copper carbonate 
in this diluted ammonia water, and add enough water to make 50 gallons. Use at once as this mixture loses strength on standing. Is not as effective as the Bordeaux Mixture, but can be used on fruit that is almost ripe, as it will not stain or spot the fruit like the Bordeaux Mixture. Caution. Do not put Paris green in this as the ammonia will 
dissolve the arsenic an dcause burning of the foliage. 
 
V. Burgundy Mixture. 
 
Copper sulphate 
 
Sodium carbonate (sal soda) 
 
Water 
 
'" 
 
2 lbs. 3 lbs. 100 gals. 
 
Dissolve each chemical in 50 gallons of water and pour the two solutions together into a spray tank, as directed for making the Bordeaux Mixture. This is used for the same purpose as the Ammoniacal Solution of Copper carbonate, and costs only about one half as mUCh. Caution. Insect poisons should not be added to this mixture. 
 
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 VI. Eau Celeste. 
 
Copper Ilulphate 
 
2 lbs. 
 
Ammonia 
 
3 pts. 
 
Water 
 
50 gals. 
 
DissolYe the copper sulphate in a gallon of water, then add the ammonia; dilute to 
 
60 gallons and apply at once. This Is a cheap and easily made fungicide, but Is liable 
 
to burn the foliage of tender plants. Especially recommended for the fungus blight of 
 
the tomato, which see on page 8. 
 
. 
 
VII. Potassium Sulphide. 
 
Potassium sulphide (I1ver of sulphur) 
 
3 ozs. 
 
Water 
 
10 to 12 gals. 
 
This mixture must be used as soon as made, for on standing It loses strength. This 
 
Is used mostly against mildews on such plants as grapes, gooseberries and roses. Is also 
 
used against red spider and thrips on plants in greenhouses. 
 
VIII. Corrosive Sublimate. 
 
Corrosive subl1mate 
 
3 ozs. 
 
Water 
 
16 gals. 
 
Dissolve the corrosive sublimate in a small amount of warm water and dilute to 15 
 
gallons. Used for potato scab, which see under potato. 
 
IX. Formalin or Formaldehyde 40 Per Cent. 
 
Formaldehyde (40%) 
 
1 pt. 
 
V\'ater 
 
25 gals. 
 
This is mainly used for potato scab and smut of wheat and oats. See under the 
 
dlf'ferl'nt I!ubjccts treated. 
 
X. Self-Boiled Lime-Sulphur Mixture. 
The preparation of the self-boiled I1me-sulphur mixture is not difficult, but great care should be exercised to see that it is properly made and not allowed to boil too long before dlluting. The following directions should be carefully followed: Weigh out 24 Ibs. of lime and 24 Ibs. of sulphur. Place the sulphur in a flfty gallon barrel and maKe into a thin paste by slOWly adding cold water and stirring until the sulphur is all moist. If this is not done the sulphur will be in lumps and will not mix readily with the I1me. To this sulphur paste add enough cold water to make six gallons, then add the I1me. Stir well and add more water as required to keep the mixture from becoming too thick. (We found that we had to add from 4 to 6 gallons of water during the cooking process.) When the lime is all slacked, which should not be more than 15 or 20 minutes, stop further cooking by dlluting with cold water. Dilute to 150 gallons and strain. If arsenate of lead is to be used add 6 Ibs. to 150 gallons, after diluting to the required amount. The arsenate of lead should be dissolved in a small amount of water before adding It to the mixture. This is the mixture used for Curculio and Brown Rot. 
If the cooking is not stopped when the lime is slacked the sulphur will continue to dissolve and the mixture may get strong enough to injure the peach foliage. What Is wanted is a good mechanical mixture of the I1me and sulphur with as little of the latter dissolved as possible. 
The straining Is important and should be carefully done, or the nozzles will clog while spraying. It is best to make the strainer out of copper gauze of 20 to 25 meshes to the inch. If more convenient the straining may be done when the mixture is diluted to 50 or 100 gallons, and the remainder of the water added afterward. In straining, all the ~lphur should be washed through If possible. If the mixture Is strained before diluting to the required amount, the sulphur can be washed through with clear water from time to time as necessary, keeping account of the amount of water added so as not to make more than the required amount of the mixture. When the arsenate of lead is added to the mixture a great change in color takes place, it becoming a dark brown. This is due to the chemical change that takes place. 
 
Sticker or Adhesive. 
W'hen spraying such plants as cabbage, onion and others that are hard to wet, a sticker should be added to the Bordeaux. This Is prepared as follows: 
Take 2 Ibs. of resin, 1 lb. sal soda, to 1 gallon of water. Boil until a clear brown color, which may take from one and a half to two hours. 
For onions and cabbagll add this amount to each 60 gallons of Bordeaux; for other plants add to 100 gallons of water. This will make the Bordeaux stick so hard rains will not wash It olr. 
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